"September 18. 1816.
"Yesterday, September 17th, I set out with Mr. Hobhouse on an excursion
of some days to the mountains.
"September 17.
"Rose at five; left Diodati about seven, in one of the country carriages
(a char-à-banc), our servants on horseback. Weather very fine; the lake
calm and clear; Mont Blanc and the Aiguille of Argentières both very
distinct; the borders of the lake beautiful. Reached Lausanne before
sunset; stopped and slept at ----. Went to bed at nine: slept till five
o'clock.
"September 18.
"Called by my courier; got up. Hobhouse walked on before. A mile from
Lausanne, the road overflowed by the lake; got on horseback and rode
till within a mile of Vevay. The colt young, but went very well.
Overtook Hobhouse, and resumed the carriage, which is an open one.
Stopped at Vevay two hours (the second time I had visited it); walked to
the church; view from the churchyard superb; within it General Ludlow
(the regicide's) monument--black marble--long inscription--Latin, but
simple; he was an exile two-and-thirty-years--one of King Charles's
judges. Near him Broughton (who read King Charles's sentence to Charles
Stuart) is buried, with a queer and rather canting, but still a
republican, inscription. Ludlow's house shown; it retains still its
inscription--'Omne solum forti patria.' Walked down to the Lake side;
servants, carriage, saddle-horses--all set off and left us _plantés là_,
by some mistake, and we walked on after them towards Clarens: Hobhouse
ran on before, and overtook them at last. Arrived the second time (first
time was by water) at Clarens. Went to Chillon through scenery worthy of
I know not whom; went over the Castle of Chillon again. On our return
met an English party in a carriage; a lady in it fast asleep--fast
asleep in the most anti-narcotic spot in the world--excellent! I
remember, at Chamouni, in the very eyes of Mont Blanc, hearing another
woman, English also, exclaim to her party, 'Did you ever see any thing
more _rural_?'--as if it was Highgate, or Hampstead, or Brompton, or
Hayes,--'Rural!' quotha.--Rocks, pines, torrents, glaciers, clouds, and
summits of eternal snow far above them--and 'rural!'
"After a slight and short dinner we visited the Chateau de Clarens; an
English woman has rented it recently (it was not let when I saw it
first); the roses are gone with their summer; the family out, but the
servants desired us to walk over the interior of the mansion. Saw on the
table of the saloon Blair's Sermons and somebody else's (I forget who's)
sermons, and a set of noisy children. Saw all worth seeing, and then
descended to the 'Bosquet de Julie,' &c. &c.; our guide full of
Rousseau, whom he is eternally confounding with St. Preux, and mixing
the man and the book. Went again as far as Chillon to revisit the little
torrent from the hill behind it. Sunset reflected in the lake. Have to
get up at five to-morrow to cross the mountains on horseback; carriage
to be sent round; lodged at my old cottage--hospitable and comfortable;
tired with a longish ride on the colt, and the subsequent jolting of the
char-à-banc, and my scramble in the hot sun.
"Mem. The corporal who showed the wonders of Chillon was as drunk as
Blucher, and (to my mind) as great a man; he was deaf also, and thinking
every one else so, roared out the legends of the castle so fearfully
that H. got out of humour. However, we saw things from the gallows to
the dungeons (the _potence_ and the _cachots_), and returned to Clarens
with more freedom than belonged to the fifteenth century.
"September 19.
"Rose at five. Crossed the mountains to Montbovon on horseback, and on
mules, and, by dint of scrambling, on foot also; the whole route
beautiful as a dream, and now to me almost as indistinct. I am so
tired;--for though healthy, I have not the strength I possessed but a
few years ago. At Montbovon we breakfasted; afterwards, on a steep
ascent dismounted; tumbled down; cut a finger open; the baggage also got
loose and fell down a ravine, till stopped by a large tree; recovered
baggage; horse tired and drooping; mounted mule. At the approach of the
summit of Dent Jument[111] dismounted again with Hobhouse and all the
party. Arrived at a lake in the very bosom of the mountains; left our
quadrupeds with a shepherd, and ascended farther; came to some snow in
patches, upon which my forehead's perspiration fell like rain, making
the same dints as in a sieve; the chill of the wind and the snow turned
me giddy, but I scrambled on and upwards. Hobhouse went to the highest
pinnacle; I did not, but paused within a few yards (at an opening of the
cliff). In coming down, the guide tumbled three times; I fell a
laughing, and tumbled too--the descent luckily soft, though steep and
slippery: Hobhouse also fell, but nobody hurt. The whole of the
mountains superb. A shepherd on a very steep and high cliff playing upon
his _pipe_; very different from _Arcadia_, where I saw the pastors with
a long musket instead of a crook, and pistols in their girdles. Our
Swiss shepherd's pipe was sweet, and his tune agreeable. I saw a cow
strayed; am told that they often break their necks on and over the
crags. Descended to Montbovon; pretty scraggy village, with a wild river
and a wooden bridge. Hobhouse went to fish--caught one. Our carriage not
come; our horses, mules, &c. knocked up; ourselves fatigued; but so much
the better--I shall sleep.
"The view from the highest points of to-day's journey comprised on one
side the greatest part of Lake Leman; on the other, the valleys and
mountain of the Canton of Fribourg, and an immense plain, with the lakes
of Neuchâtel and Morat, and all which the borders of the Lake of Geneva
inherit; we had both sides of the Jura before us in one point of view,
with Alps in plenty. In passing a ravine, the guide recommended
strenuously a quickening of pace, as the stones fall with great rapidity
and occasional damage; the advice is excellent, but, like most good
advice, impracticable, the road being so rough that neither mules, nor
mankind, nor horses, can make any violent progress. Passed without
fractures or menace thereof.
"The music of the cow's bells (for their wealth, like the patriarchs',
is cattle) in the pastures, which reach to a height far above any
mountains in Britain, and the shepherds shouting to us from crag to
crag, and playing on their reeds where the steeps appeared almost
inaccessible, with the surrounding scenery, realised all that I have
ever heard or imagined of a pastoral existence:--much more so than
Greece or Asia Minor, for there we are a little too much of the sabre
and musket order, and if there is a crook in one hand, you are sure to
see a gun in the other:--but this was pure and unmixed--solitary,
savage, and patriarchal. As we went, they played the 'Rans des Vaches'
and other airs, by way of farewell. I have lately repeopled my mind with
nature.
[Footnote 111: Dent de Jaman.]
"September 20.
Up at six; off at eight. The whole of this day's journey at an average
of between from 2700 to 3000 feet above the level of the sea. This
valley, the longest, narrowest, and considered the finest of the Alps,
little traversed by travellers. Saw the bridge of La Roche. The bed of
the river very low and deep, between immense rocks, and rapid as
anger;--a man and mule said to have tumbled over without damage. The
people looked free, and happy, and _rich_ (which last implies neither of
the former); the cows superb; a bull nearly leapt into the
char-à-banc--'agreeable companion in a post-chaise;' goats and sheep
very thriving. A mountain with enormous glaciers to the right--the
Klitzgerberg; further on, the Hockthorn--nice names--so
soft!--_Stockhorn_, I believe, very lofty and scraggy, patched with snow
only; no glaciers on it, but some good epaulettes of clouds.
"Passed the boundaries, out of Vaud and into Berne canton; French
exchanged for bad German; the district famous for cheese, liberty,
property, and no taxes. Hobhouse went to fish--caught none. Strolled to
the river; saw boy and kid; kid followed him like a dog; kid could not
get over a fence, and bleated piteously; tried myself to help kid, but
nearly overset both self and kid into the river. Arrived here about six
in the evening. Nine o'clock--going to bed; not tired to day, but hope
to sleep, nevertheless.
"September 21.
"Off early. The valley of Simmenthal as before. Entrance to the plain of
Thoun very narrow; high rocks, wooded to the top; river; new mountains,
with fine glaciers. Lake of Thoun; extensive plain with a girdle of
Alps. Walked down to the Chateau de Schadau; view along the lake;
crossed the river in a boat rowed by women. Thoun a very pretty town.
The whole day's journey Alpine and proud.
"September 22.
"Left Thoun in a boat, which carried us the length of the lake in three
hours. The lake small; but the banks fine. Rocks down to the water's
edge. Landed at Newhause; passed Interlachen; entered upon a range of
scenes beyond all description or previous conception. Passed a rock;
inscription--two brothers--one murdered the other; just the place for
it. After a variety of windings came to an enormous rock. Arrived at the
foot of the mountain (the Jungfrau, that is, the Maiden); glaciers;
torrents; one of these torrents _nine hundred feet_ in height of visible
descent. Lodged at the curate's. Set out to see the valley; heard an
avalanche fall, like thunder; glaciers enormous; storm came on, thunder,
lightning, hail; all in perfection, and beautiful. I was on horseback;
guide wanted to carry my cane; I was going to give it him, when I
recollected that it was a sword-stick, and I thought the lightning might
be attracted towards him; kept it myself; a good deal encumbered with
it, as it was too heavy for a whip, and the horse was stupid, and stood
with every other peal. Got in, not very wet, the cloak being stanch.
Hobhouse wet through; Hobhouse took refuge in cottage; sent man,
umbrella, and cloak (from the curate's when I arrived) after him. Swiss
curate's house very good indeed--much better than most English
vicarages. It is immediately opposite the torrent I spoke of. The
torrent is in shape curving over the rock, like the _tail_ of a white
horse streaming in the wind, such as it might be conceived would be that
of the 'pale horse' on which Death is mounted in the Apocalypse.[112] It
is neither mist nor water, but a something between both; its immense
height (nine hundred feet) gives it a wave or curve, a spreading here or
condensation there, wonderful and indescribable. I think, upon the
whole, that this day has been better than any of this present excursion.
[Footnote 112: It is interesting to observe the use to which he
afterwards converted these hasty memorandums in his sublime drama of
Manfred.
"It is not noon--the sunbow's rays still arch
The torrent with the many hues of heaven,
And roll the sheeted silver's waving column
O'er the crag's headlong perpendicular,
And fling its lines of foaming light along,
_And to and fro, like the pale coursers tail,
The Giant steed, to be bestrode by Death
As told in the Apocalypse._"
]
"September 23.
"Before ascending the mountain, went to the torrent (seven in the
morning) again; the sun upon it, forming a _rainbow_ of the lower part
of all colours, but principally purple and gold; the bow moving as you
move; I never saw any thing like this; it is only in the sunshine.
Ascended the Wengen mountain; at noon reached a valley on the summit;
left the horses, took off my coat, and went to the summit, seven
thousand feet (English feet) above the level of the _sea_, and about
five thousand above the valley we left in the morning. On one side, our
view comprised the Jungfrau, with all her glaciers; then the Dent
d'Argent, shining like truth; then the Little Giant (the Kleine Eigher);
and the Great Giant (the Grosse Eigher), and last, not least, the
Wetterhorn. The height of Jungfrau is 13,000 feet above the sea, 11,000
above the valley; she is the highest of this range. Heard the avalanches
falling every five minutes nearly. From whence we stood, on the Wengen
Alp, we had all these in view on one side; on the other, the clouds rose
from the opposite valley, curling up perpendicular precipices like the
foam of the ocean of hell, during a spring tide--it was white, and
sulphury, and immeasurably deep in appearance.[113] The side we ascended
was (of course) not of so precipitous a nature; but on arriving at the
summit, we looked down upon the other side upon a boiling sea of cloud,
dashing against the crags on which we stood (these crags on one side
quite perpendicular). Stayed a quarter of an hour; begun to descend;
quite clear from cloud on that side of the mountain. In passing the
masses of snow, I made a snowball and pelted Hobhouse with it.
"Got down to our horses again; ate something; remounted; heard the
avalanches still; came to a morass; Hobhouse dismounted to get over
well; I tried to pass my horse over; the horse sunk up to the chin, and
of course he and I were in the mud together; bemired, but not hurt;
laughed, and rode on. Arrived at the Grindelwald; dined; mounted again,
and rode to the higher glacier--like _a frozen hurricane_.[114]
Starlight, beautiful, but a devil of a path! Never mind, got safe in; a
little lightning; but the whole of the day as fine in point of weather
as the day on which Paradise was made. Passed _whole woods of withered
pines, all withered_; trunks stripped and barkless, branches lifeless;
done by a single winter[115],--their appearance reminded me of me and my
family.
[Footnote 113:
"Ye _avalanches_, whom a breath draws down
In mountainous o'erwhelming, come and crush me!
_I hear ye momently above, beneath,
Crash with a frequent conflict._ * * *
The mists boil up around the glaciers; _clouds
Rise curling_ fast beneath me, white and sulphury,
_Like foam from the roused ocean of deep hell!_"
MANFRED.
]
[Footnote 114:
"O'er the savage sea,
The glassy ocean of the mountain ice,
We skim its rugged breakers, which put on
The aspect of a tumbling _tempest_'s foam,
_Frozen in a moment._"
MANFRED.
]
[Footnote 115:
"Like these _blasted pines,
Wrecks of a single winter, barkless, branchless._"
IBID.
]
"September 24.
"Set off at seven; up at five. Passed the black glacier, the mountain
Wetterhorn on the right; crossed the Scheideck mountain; came to the
_Rose_ glacier, said to be the largest and finest in Switzerland, _I_
think the Bossons glacier at Chamouni as fine; Hobhouse does not. Came
to the Reichenbach waterfall, two hundred feet high; halted to rest the
horses. Arrived in the valley of Overland; rain came on; drenched a
little; only four hours' rain, however, in eight days. Came to the lake
of Brientz, then to the town of Brientz; changed. In the evening, four
Swiss peasant girls of Oberhasli came and sang the airs of their
country; two of the voices beautiful--the tunes also: so wild and
original, and at the same time of great sweetness. The singing is over;
but below stairs I hear the notes of a fiddle, which bode no good to my
night's rest; I shall go down and see the dancing.
"September 25.
"The whole town of Brientz were apparently gathered together in the
rooms below; pretty music and excellent waltzing; none but peasants; the
dancing much better than in England; the English can't waltz, never
could, never will. One man with his pipe in his mouth, but danced as
well as the others; some other dances in pairs and in fours, and very
good. I went to bed, but the revelry continued below late and early.
Brientz but a village. Rose early. Embarked on the lake of Brientz,
rowed by the women in a long boat; presently we put to shore, and
another woman jumped in. It seems it is the custom here for the boats to
be _manned_ by _women_: for of five men and three women in our bark, all
the women took an oar, and but one man.
"Got to Interlachen in three hours; pretty lake; not so large as that of
Thoun. Dined at Interlachen. Girl gave me some flowers, and made me a
speech in German, of which I know nothing; I do not know whether the
speech was pretty, but as the woman was, I hope so. Re-embarked on the
lake of Thoun; fell asleep part of the way; sent our horses round;
found people on the shore, blowing up a rock with gunpowder; they blew
it up near our boat, only telling us a minute before;--mere stupidity,
but they might have broken our noddles. Got to Thoun in the evening; the
weather has been tolerable the whole day. But as the wild part of our
tour is finished, it don't matter to us; in all the desirable part, we
have been most lucky in warmth and clearness of atmosphere.
"September 26.
"Being out of the mountains, my journal must be as flat as my journey.
From Thoun to Berne, good road, hedges, villages, industry, property,
and all sorts of tokens of insipid civilisation. From Berne to Fribourg;
different canton; Catholics; passed a field of battle; Swiss beat the
French in one of the late wars against the French republic. Bought a
dog. The greater part of this tour has been on horseback, on foot, and
on mule.
"September 28.
"Saw the tree planted in honour of the battle of Morat; three hundred
and forty years old; a good deal decayed. Left Fribourg, but first saw
the cathedral; high tower. Overtook the baggage of the nuns of La
Trappe, who are removing to Normandy; afterwards a coach, with a
quantity of nuns in it. Proceeded along the banks of the lake of
Neuchâtel; very pleasing and soft, but not so mountainous--at least, the
Jura, not appearing so, after the Bernese Alps. Reached Yverdun in the
dusk; a long line of large trees on the border of the lake; fine and
sombre; the auberge nearly full--a German princess and suite; got rooms.
"September 29.
"Passed through a fine and flourishing country, but not mountainous. In
the evening reached Aubonne (the entrance and bridge something like that
of Durham), which commands by far the fairest view of the Lake of
Geneva; twilight; the moon on the lake; a grove on the height, and of
very noble trees. Here Tavernier (the eastern traveller) bought (or
built) the château, because the site resembled and equalled that of
_Erivan_, a frontier city of Persia; here he finished his voyages, and I
this little excursion,--for I am within a few hours of Diodati, and have
little more to see, and no more to say."