Visit to the Residency—Description of the Bala Hissar—The Ruins of the
Residency—Probable Plan of the Attack and Defence—The Amir’s
Palace—Formal Occupation of the Bala Hissar, and Proclamation to the
People of Cabul—The Punishment of the City—Arrest of the Amir’s
Ministers—Text of the Proclamation.
CAMP SIAH SUNG, _11th October_.
To-day Sir Frederick Roberts and his Staff visited the ruins of the
Residency within the walls of the Bala Hissar. The visit was made
quietly and unostentatiously, only a sufficient escort being taken to
guard against such accidents as a ghazi running amuck, or a handful of
quondam rebels making an attack upon the leader of the army that has
punished them. There is so much of historical interest attaching to the
fortress which guards Cabul, and this interest has been so intensified
by late events, that all of us who rode from Camp yesterday were full of
expectation as to what we were likely to see. Following for half a mile
the Jellalabad Road, lined on both sides with closely-planted trees, we
turned sharply to the left when nearing the city, and were soon
underneath the walls of the Bala Hissar itself. The shallow bed of the
moat supposed to surround the city is nearly dry, and the road runs only
a few yards from the foot of the rock against which the walls are
reared. The masonry is crumbling to decay, but there are still signs of
great stability in it, and the natural features of the ground have been
so utilized that a precipitous face of 30 or 40 feet is presented to any
enemy. This is on the eastern side to the right of the entrance-gate,
just where Shere Ali’s palace, with its zenana, tops the wall. The road
rises some 10 or 12 feet to the gate itself, which must once have been
of enormous strength, as solid masonry 20 feet thick still remains.
Here, again, there is evidence of ruin, the inner supports having
crumbled away and the defensive position overhead lost its protecting
parapets. The lower Bala Hissar once entered, one comes upon the usual
narrow winding lanes and commonplace mud buildings of all eastern
cities. The place looks filthy and uncared for, and the doorways leading
to the courts of the tumble-down houses give a view of squalor and
dilapidation suggestive of worse to follow. The few shops are miserable
specimens of their kind, and their owners are in keeping with the
general associations of the place. There is nothing better to describe
than dust, dirt, and dreariness, on every hand; and even the small
square, where a few guns were standing in front of a dozen dirty tents
used by the gunners, gave as little idea of the interior of a fortress
as a few grains of sand would of a desert. Six field-pieces and as many
mountain guns were parked in the square. This was part of the
artillery-quarters, and a few gunners with a trumpeter were standing
near the guns. The men wore no uniform and looked like unwashed coolies.
They saluted as Sir Frederick Roberts rode up, and the trumpeter
welcomed us by blowing monotonously for several minutes upon his
instrument.
It must be more than thirty-five years since British infantry marched
through the filthy streets of this much-vaunted citadel; and our only
regret was that they had now entered it so peacefully. Sir Frederick
Roberts was accompanied by the Mustaufi, the Wazir, and Daoud Shah, the
Commander-in-Chief. After a few minutes’ stay in this square, we
retraced our steps and entered a narrow lane with a high wall on the
right, shutting in the Amir’s garden. On the left were the stables in
which the horses of the Royal household were tethered in the open air,
rude bins being made in the mud walls on a pattern which is common where
Afghan cavalry are quartered. The lane led to the high ground on which
the buildings assigned to Sir Louis Cavagnari and his companions stood.
From this the city could be seen lying at our feet, to the north.
Our first view of the Residency was of the rear wall, still intact, but
blackened on the top where the smoke from the burning ruins had swept
across. At each angle where the side walls joined were seen the
loop-holes from which the fire of the little force on the roof had been
directed against the overwhelming numbers attacking them. Every square
foot round these loop-holes was pitted with bullet-marks, the balls
having cut deeply into the hard mud plaster. The western wall, which
faced towards the Upper Bala Hissar, commanding it, was scarred with
these marks, proving only too well how severe had been the fire from the
higher level occupied by the mutineers in the Arsenal. At this end the
Residency was of three stories, but the present wall does not indicate
the height of more than two, the upper part having collapsed when the
fire obtained a mastery over the building. A lane six or eight feet wide
runs between this wall and the buildings on the right in which the
Guides were quartered. Plans hitherto published have made the Residency
and these quarters one block; but this is a mistake; they were quite
distinct.
Riding along the lane we came to the southern end of the Residency,
built upon the edge of the wall looking towards Beni Hissar, and here
were two graves marked by neatly-piled stones in Mussulman fashion, each
with its head-stone, but no inscription. Whether any bodies are buried
beneath remains to be seen; it is suspected these neat mounds may have
been raised as “a blind.” The Kotwal stated that two _sahibs_ were
buried there, Lieutenant Hamilton and Mr. Jenkyns; but this does not
coincide with the story told by Taimus, a sowar of the Guides, who says
the bodies were buried some distance to the west of the Residency.
Passing through a narrow gateway, half-blocked with rubbish, just in
rear of these graves, we entered the main court of the Residency, and
were soon thoroughly able to appreciate the fate of its defenders. The
southern end on our right hand was standing untouched, and consisted of
rooms built on wooden pillars so as to form a kind of oblong pavilion.
The mud basement is three or four feet from the ground, and the whole
structure, except a few partition walls and the roof, is of wood, and,
from the dryness of the climate, very inflammable. It is neatly
whitewashed, and the upper rooms, being open on both sides, must be cool
and pleasant. These were Sir Louis Cavagnari’s quarters, and from them
the rich Cabul plain beneath can be seen stretching away to the Tezin
Hills. The courtyard of the Residency is about 90 feet square, and at
its northern end, where formerly stood a three-storied building like
that I have just described, are nothing but the bare walls, blackened
and scarred by fire, and a huge heap of rubbish, the ruins of the walls
and roof which fell in as the woodwork was destroyed. Portions of the
partition walls still remain, jutting sullenly out from the mass of
_débris_, and these only serve to make the place more desolate. The
whitewashed walls on the left are here and there bespattered with blood,
and on the raised basement on which the building stood are the remains
of a large fire, the half-charred beams still resting among the ashes.
The ruins are still smouldering. Whether, as suggested, any bodies were
burned there, is still an unsettled point; but in one room into which I
went there can be no doubt fire had been used for such a purpose. The
ashes were in the middle of the chamber, and near them were two skulls
and a heap of human bones, still fetid. It would seem as if a desperate
struggle had taken place in this room, the bloodstains on the floor and
walls being clearly discernible. The skulls are to be examined by
surgeons, as it is possible they may be those of Europeans. The
Residency was looted so thoroughly, that not even a peg has been left in
the walls. In Sir Louis Cavagnari’s quarters the windows overlooking the
Bala Hissar wall have been torn out even to the sashes, and a few bits
of glass on the floor alone remain of them. The chintz hangings and
purdahs have been stripped away, a fluttering bit of coloured rag on a
stray nail being the only sign of such cheerfulness as these once gave.
Bare cross-poles and rafters, floors rough with dirt and defiled with
filth, staring white walls with here and there a bullet-mark—such are
the once comfortable quarters of our Envoy. The view over the Cabul
plain is still as peaceful as when poor Jenkyns described it so
enthusiastically; but all else is changed. The one consolation is that a
British army is encamped within gunshot of the walls.
It is still difficult to make out the point at which the mutineers
obtained entry into the Residency buildings, unless it was by a hole in
the eastern wall, a little to the right of a small doorway leading to a
lower range of houses adjoining. Round this hole are scores of
bullet-holes, and their direction seems to show that the defenders on
the roof fired down as the men streamed in, in the vain hope of checking
them before they could rush forward and set fire to the woodwork. Once
the lower part of the three-storied building was in flames, nothing
could save the brave men on the roof, as all retreat was cut off. We
viewed the scene of desolation for some time from the roof of Sir Louis
Cavagnari’s quarters; and General Roberts gave orders that nothing
should be disturbed until careful sketches had been made of the interior
of the Residency and its surroundings. Careful excavations for bodies
will also be made among the ruins. It is absurd to talk of the Residency
being a safe place for a garrison; it is commanded completely from the
walls of the Arsenal in the Upper Bala Hissar, and also from the roofs
of some high houses to the south-west. In addition, houses closely
adjoin it on the eastern side; and an attacking party sapping the walls
would have perfect cover in this direction the whole time: this may
account for the breach in the walls through which I have suggested the
mutineers made their rush. Riding into the quarters occupied by the
Guides’ escort, on the western side of the lane, I found but few
bullet-marks on the walls. Facing was a high door firmly closed and
seemingly uninjured; but on going into the Sikh quarters on my right,
and following a broad passage which turned at right angles towards the
wall, a huge breach was visible. This was where the Afghans had blown in
the gate after Lieutenant Hamilton’s noble, but ineffectual, efforts to
check them. Three times he charged out, killing many men with his sword
and pistol, but what could one hero do against a mob of fanatics? No
doubt when it was seen that a breach was made the Guides withdrew to the
Residency proper, and there made the last stand, first in the courtyard
guarding the doors and afterwards on the roof.
On returning we stayed for a short time in the Amir’s garden, where
fruit and tea were served to us. Afterwards we visited Shere Ali’s
palace on the wall near the gate. Two or three dark passages had to be
traversed before a staircase was gained which led to his State rooms.
Persian carpets of value were spread in two rooms, in the second of
which hung gaudy glass chandeliers, while on the ground (as if purposely
placed out of harm’s way) was a collection of glassware of sorts showing
all the colours of the rainbow. A few cheap prints, including one of the
Czar Alexander, hung on the walls, and on a chair near was a _Graphic_
folded so as to show a portrait of Cavagnari. On taking this up I came
across a diary of Sir Louis Cavagnari’s, which seemed to have been used
chiefly for recording lists of visits and visitors. The book was handed
over to Major Hastings. Two or three maps of Central Asia were also
among the papers; but it is doubtful to whom they belonged.
CAMP SIAH SUNG, _12th October_.
This morning the first formal declaration of our occupation of Cabul was
made by the troops taking possession of the Bala Hissar, followed by a
durbar, at which the terms imposed upon the city were announced. As I
have before said, there was nothing to hinder us marching into the
fortress the day after the battle of Charasia, for our cavalry videttes
were within 200 yards of the walls, and not a sentry could be seen
within the fortifications. They had been abandoned in hot haste by the
mutineers, who had first of all drawn off to the Sherpur cantonments and
thence betaken themselves to the Asmai Heights, from which they fled on
the evening of the 8th. But there was no occasion for haste: our camp on
the Siah Sung Ridge dominates the city, and we could have shelled it at
our leisure if any signs of discontent, or an armed rising, had been
observed. Besides, in dealing with Afghans, there is always the element
of treachery to be considered, and it was not impossible that mines
might have been laid ready to be sprung if we occupied the place
precipitately. The explosion of the magazine at Sherpur, on the night of
the 7th, had shown the desperate character of the men we were fighting
against, and it was well to be on our guard against any surprise. It is
impossible to say what vast stores of gunpowder may be hidden in the
Upper Bala Hissar, where the Arsenal buildings are situated; and until
we have thoroughly examined the godowns and vaults within the walls we
are in the position of “playing with fire,” which may at any moment pass
beyond our control. Sir F. Roberts’s visit to the ruins of the Residency
yesterday went off quietly enough, and the fortress seemed deserted,
save for the few Afghan residents in the houses within the outer walls;
but a few reckless men may still lurk about waiting for an opportunity
to work serious mischief.
This morning all the troops in camp paraded at eleven o’clock and
marched down with bands playing to the Jellalabad Road, which they at
once lined on either side. The men were arrayed in their gayest
uniforms; and although many were worn and travel-stained, the general
appearance of all the regiments was very smart and soldierlike. At noon
word was brought to Sir F. Roberts that all was ready, and, accompanied
by his Staff and Brigadier-Generals Massy, Macpherson, Baker, and Hugh
Gough, and Major-General Hills, he rode down the Siah Sung Ridge, and
took the road to the Bala Hissar. The cavalry lined the road for the
first half-mile nearest to camp, the lances of the 14th Bengal Lancers
glittering among the branches of the trees until they merged into the
line of sabres of the 12th Bengal Cavalry, who looked none the worse for
their late hard ride on the Bamian Road. Two rows of crimson turbans
marked where the 5th Punjab Cavalry were drawn up; while the handful of
9th Lancers, gorgeous as on a parade at home, closed the cavalry array.
First in the Infantry line were the scarlet coats of the 28th Native
Infantry, contrasting vividly with the dull _khaki_ uniform of the 23rd
Pioneers—as fine a fighting and working regiment as ever drew batta. The
mountain guns were next in order, looking down each other’s muzzles from
either side of the road; while flanking them were the 5th Punjab
Infantry, well known for good service on the frontier. The 7th Company
of Sappers and Miners, stalwart men, bestrapped with spade and shovel,
were then passed; while near them were the two Gatling guns, quite
overpowered by their neighbours, the nine-pounders of G-3 Battery of
Royal Artillery, which made themselves heard with good effect at
Charasia. The Highland regiments, forming two living walls stretching
far away towards the city, were the great representatives of British
Infantry; the 92nd Gordon Highlanders, kilted and gaitered, resting on
the 72nd, more warmly clad in tartan trews. Nothing could exceed the
splendid form in which these regiments turned out, the bronzed and
bearded faces of the soldiers showing that but few “six-year men” were
in their ranks. The F-A Battery of Royal Horse Artillery was drawn up in
a field just off the road, ready to fire the salute, and the post of
honour next to the gate was assigned to the senior regiment, the 67th
Foot, a well-set-up body of men, equal to any amount of work. On the
ridge above the fortress we could see the dark figures of the 5th
Ghoorkas, six companies of which had moved down and occupied the Upper
Bala Hissar. As the General rode slowly down the long line of troops,
the trumpets of the cavalry brayed out a _fanfare_ and the band of each
infantry regiment played right heartily, the men presenting arms with
automatic precision. A halt was called just below the entrance to the
Bala Hissar; and as the Union Jack was run up over the gateway by some
red-jackets of the 67th, the first gun, of the royal salute of
thirty-one, was fired by the Horse Artillery. At the same instant the
opening bars of the National Anthem were heard as the bands struck up,
the shrill pipes of the Highlanders ringing out above the din. The sight
was a most impressive one, the sun lighting up the double line along
which 4,000 bayonets sparkled, and throwing into bold relief the darker
forms of men and horses where the cavalry were drawn up. In the
background were the brown slopes of the Siah Sung Ridge, crowned by the
white lines of tents which marked our camp, then almost deserted. Only a
few spectators from the city clustered on the road from the Lahore Gate,
and watched the spectacle, the mass of the people remaining sullenly
within the walls.
The smoke of the first three or four guns had not cleared off when the
company of the 67th nearest the gate faced round, and followed by their
band, marched into the Bala Hissar—the first British regiment that had
entered its narrow streets since 1842. (It is worthy of record that the
“quick-step” played by the 67th is the same as that of the ill-fated
44th Regiment, not a man of which escaped to tell the tale of the
disastrous retreat from Cabul which Pollock avenged.) Following the
band, General Roberts and his little train of mounted men rode into the
fortress, and took their way through its narrow streets to the Amir’s
garden under the walls of the Upper Bala Hissar. At either end of this
garden, which is now merely a neglected wilderness, are two of the
ordinary wooden native pavilions, the one to the south containing what
is called the “Audience Chamber.” This is approached by a flight of
dirty wooden stairs, and is about twenty feet above the ground-level.
The chamber is quite open on the side facing the garden, so that a crowd
below could be addressed from it, and it also gives a good view over the
city, with its background of high hills. The room was soon filled with
the gay uniforms of the General and his staff and such officers as were
not on duty with their regiments, and then the Durbar began, the Cabul
Sirdars crowding in at a signal, and pressing forward to make their
salaams to their latest conqueror. It was intended that the Amir should
have accompanied General Roberts into the Bala Hissar; but at the last
moment he pleaded indisposition, and was excused.[15] His eldest son,
the heir-apparent, was sent instead. He is a child of five or six years
of age, with a monkeyish cast of face, which not even the glitter and
colour of his _bizarre_ coat and hat, gorgeous in green and gold, could
soften or render at all prepossessing. The youngest was of little
account, being squeezed against the wooden framework of the pavilion by
the greasy Sirdars, who could not control themselves in their eagerness
to pay their respects. The General was not at all cordial in his
reception of them; and it was not surprising, for a more servile or
repulsive audience could not have been selected. Scarcely a face was
visible that was not stamped with the marks of sensuality, and where age
had softened these, it had replaced them by deeper lines of cunning and
deception. There was a look of subdued malice in one or two faces,
mingled with expectant fear of what terms were about to be imposed upon
Cabul. The full figure of Daoud Shah, the late Commander-in-Chief, stood
out prominently from the _bunniah_-like crowd about him, and, both in
figure and bearing, he contrasted favourably with the sirdars. He was
clothed simply in a long grey coat, belted at the waist; while the
perspiring crowd of his fellows boasted garments of silk and
beautifully-dyed clothes, some of the coats of many colours being so
startling as to make one almost colour-blind. There was one thin red
line, however, which never moved; it was that formed by some twenty men
of the 67th, who, with fixed bayonets, were standing to “attention” at
the back of the narrow room, stolid sentinels at their posts. Below, the
rest of the two companies were formed up, and the band played some
lively “troops,”—the airs played at the trooping of the colours. When
these came to an end, a little space was cleared about the General, who
read out the Proclamation, by which the punishment of Cabul was made
known. It was translated, sentence by sentence, by the _munshi_ of Major
Hastings, Political Officer, and was listened to in perfect silence, the
only token of approval being given by an old ressaldar of Hodson’s
Horse, now enjoying his pension among his native orchards of Cabul. This
man, with his breast decorated with medals earned by service in India,
cried out emphatically “_shabash!_” when one or two sentences meting out
punishment to the rebels were read, and it was clear all his sympathy
was with us; for, with a true soldier’s instinct, he could not forgive
the cowardice of the attack upon the Residency by an armed rabble, bent
upon taking the lives of a few men who were their guests. The sirdars
seemed relieved when they heard Cabul was not to be destroyed, and the
disarmament of the population and the fine that had to be paid must have
appeared to them small punishment so long as their city and fortress
were left untouched. When the Proclamation had been read through, they
were summarily dismissed, the Wazir, the Mustaufi, Yahiya Khan
(father-in-law of the Amir), and his brother, Zakariah Khan, also, being
asked to stay, as the General wished to speak to them. They doubtless
thought they were to be consulted on questions of high policy, but their
chagrin was great when they were told they would have to remain as
prisoners until their conduct had been thoroughly investigated. They
would be confined in separate rooms with sentries over them, and beyond
one servant they would be forbidden to communicate with any of their
associates. The Mustaufi fell to telling his beads at once, and the
others appeared in a very wholesome state of fear. It was a startling
surprise to them after all the smooth-sailing of the past few days, and
they are now at leisure to ponder over their double-dealings with the
British authority. This bit of by-play having been successfully got
through, General Roberts left the audience chamber, and in a few minutes
rode back to camp, the 67th cheering him right heartily as he passed out
of the garden. The long line of bayonets, sabres, and lances was
traversed at a gallop, and Siah Sung camp reached in a few minutes. The
67th moved into the Bala Hissar and encamped in the Amir’s garden, and
thus the first day of our triumph over Cabul ended as happily as it
began. Yakub Khan’s tent was removed during the day to the
head-quarters’ camp, a guard of honour from the 72nd Highlanders keeping
strict watch over it.
-----
Footnote 15:
It was not made known until afterwards that Yakub Khan had placed his
resignation in the hands of Sir F. Roberts.
-----
The following is the full text of the Proclamation:—
PROCLAMATION TO THE PEOPLE OF CABUL BY MAJOR-GENERAL
SIR FREDERICK ROBERTS, K.C.B., V.C.
DATED BALA HISSAR, CABUL, _12th October, 1879_.
“In my Proclamation of the 3rd October, dated Zerghun Shahr, I
informed the people of Cabul that a British army was advancing to take
possession of the city, and I warned them against offering any
resistence to the entry of the troops, and the authority of His
Highness the Amir. That warning has been disregarded. The force under
my command has now reached Cabul, and occupied the Bala Hissar; but
its advance has been pertinaciously opposed, and the inhabitants of
the city have taken a conspicuous part in the opposition offered. They
have therefore become rebels against His Highness the Amir, and have
added to the guilt already incurred by them in abetting the murder of
the British Envoy and of his companions—a treacherous and cowardly
crime, which has brought indelible disgrace upon the Afghan people. It
would be but a just and fitting reward for such misdeeds if the city
of Cabul were now totally destroyed and its very name blotted out. But
the great British Government is ever desirous to temper justice with
mercy, and I now announce to the inhabitants of Cabul that the full
retribution for their offence will not be exacted, and that the city
will be spared. Nevertheless it is necessary that they should not
escape all penalty, and that the punishment inflicted should be such
as will be felt and remembered. Therefore such of the city buildings
as now interfere with the proper military occupation of the Bala
Hissar, and the safety and comfort of the British troops to be
quartered in it, will be at once levelled with the ground; and further
a heavy fine, the amount of which will be notified hereafter, will be
imposed upon the inhabitants, to be paid according to their several
capabilities. This punishment, inflicted upon the whole city, will
not, of course, absolve from further penalties those whose individual
guilt may be hereafter proved. A full and searching inquiry will be
held into the circumstances of the late outbreak, and all persons
convicted of bearing a part in it will be dealt with according to
their deserts. I further give notice to all, that, in order to provide
for the restoration and maintenance of order, the city of Cabul and
the surrounding country to a distance of ten miles are placed under
martial law. With the consent of the Amir, a military Governor of
Cabul will be appointed to administer justice, and to punish with a
strong hand all evil-doers. The inhabitants of Cabul and of the
neighbouring villages are hereby warned to submit to his authority.
For the future the carrying of dangerous weapons, whether swords,
knives, or firearms, within the streets of Cabul, or within a distance
of five miles from the city gates, is forbidden. After a week from the
date of this Proclamation, any person found armed within these limits
will be liable to the penalty of death. Persons having in their
possession any articles whatsoever which formerly belonged to members
of the British Embassy are required to bring them forthwith to the
British Camp. Anyone neglecting this warning will, if found hereafter
in possession of any such articles, be subject to the severest
penalties. Further, all persons who may have in their possession any
firearms or ammunition formerly issued to, or seized by, the Afghan
troops are required to produce them. For every country-made rifle,
whether breech or muzzle-loading, a sum of Rs. 3 will be given on
delivery; and for every rifle of European manufacture, Rs. 5. Anyone
found hereafter in possession of such weapons will be severely
punished. Finally, I notify that I will give a reward of Rs. 50 for
the surrender of any person, whether soldier or civilian, concerned in
the attack on the British Embassy, or for such information as may lead
directly to his capture. A similar sum will be given in case of any
person who may have fought against the British troops, since the 3rd
September last, and has therefore become a rebel against the Amir. If
any such person so surrendered or captured be a captain or subaltern
officer of the Afghan army, the reward will be increased to Rs. 75;
and if a field officer to Rs. 120.”
Copies of this Proclamation, printed, in the Persian and Pakhtu
character, will be extensively circulated in Northern Afghanistan.