Manheim.
We made a short jaunt to Heidelberg a few days since. That town is about
four leagues from Manheim.
Heidelberg is situated in a hollow on the banks of the Neckar, and is
surrounded by charming hills perfectly cultivated.
More cheerful scenes of exuberant fertility are to be seen no where than
along the fine chain of hills which begin near this town. The summits
of these hills are crowned with trees, and their sides and bottoms are
clothed with vines.
The Elector’s castle is placed on an eminence, which commands the town,
and a view of the valley below; but the castle itself unfortunately is
commanded by another eminence too near it, from which this noble building
was cannonaded when the whole Palatinate was pillaged and burnt, in
consequence of that cruel order of Lewis XIV. too literally executed by
Turenne.
The particulars of that dismal scene have been transmitted from father to
son, and are still spoke of with horror by the peasantry of this country,
among whom the French nation is held in detestation to this day.
While we were in the castle we did not omit visiting the renowned
Heidelberg tun; but as it was perfectly empty, it made but a dull and
uninteresting appearance.
The inhabitants of the Palatinate are partly Protestants, and partly
Roman Catholics, who live here in harmony with each other. The great
church at Heidelberg is divided into two apartments, in one of which the
Protestants, and in the other, the Papists, perform public worship:—A
singular proof of the moderation and coolness of people’s minds with
regard to a subject that inflamed them so violently in the days of their
ancestors.
We remained only one day at Heidelberg, and returned in the evening to
this place. The lives and manners of the inhabitants of this city seem
to be as uniform and formal as the streets and buildings. No noise, mobs
or bustle; at mid-day every thing is as calm and quiet as the streets of
London at midnight. This gives one the notion that the citizens are under
the same restraint and discipline with the troops.
I have seen these last perform their exercise every morning on the
parade. I was a good deal surprised to observe, that not only the
movements of the soldiers muskets, and the attitudes of their bodies,
but also their devotions, were under the direction of the major’s cane.
The following motions are performed as part of the military manœuvres
every day before the troops are marched to their different guards.
The major flourishes his cane;—the drum gives a single tap, and every man
under arms raises his hand to his hat;—at a second stroke on the drum,
they take off their hats, and are supposed to pray;—at a third, they
finish their petitions, and put their hats on their heads.—If any man
has the assurance to prolong his prayer a minute longer than the drum
indicates, he is punished on the spot, and taught to be less devout for
the future.
The ingenious inventor of drums certainly never dreamt of their becoming
the regulators of people’s piety.—But the modern improvements in the
military art are truly wonderful!—and we need not despair, after this,
of seeing a whole regiment, by the progress of discipline, so modelled as
to eat, drink, and perform other animal functions, uniformly together, at
the word of command, as they poise their firelocks.