Bern.
The different cantons of Switzerland, though united together by a common
bond, and all of a republican form of government, differ in the nature of
that form, as well as in religion.
The Roman Catholic religion being favourable to monarchy, one would
naturally imagine, that, when adopted by a republic, it would gradually
wind up the government to the highest pitch of aristocracy.
The fact nevertheless is, that those cantons, which are in the strongest
degree democratical, are of the Popish persuasion; and the most perfect
aristocracy of them all is established in this Protestant canton of
Bern, which is also indeed the most powerful. In extent of country, and
number of inhabitants, it is reckoned nearly equal to all the others
taken together.
The nobility of Bern are accused of an extraordinary degree of pride and
stateliness. They affect to keep the citizens at a great distance; and
it is with difficulty that their wives and daughters will condescend
to mix with the mercantile families at balls, assemblies, and such
public occasions, where numbers seem essential to the nature of the
entertainment; by which means a nobility ball loses in cheerfulness what
it retains in dignity, and is often, as I am told, as devoid of amusement
as it is solemn.
The whole power of the government, and all the honourable offices of the
state, are in the hands of the nobility. As it is not permitted them
to trade, they would naturally fall into poverty without this resource:
But by the number of places which the nobles enjoy, and to which very
considerable pensions are annexed, the poorest of them are enabled to
support their families with dignity.
The bailliages, into which the whole canton and the conquered territories
are divided, form lucrative and honourable establishments for the
principal families of Bern. The bailiff is governor and judge in his
own district, and there is a magnificent chateau in each for his
accommodation. An appeal may be made from all subordinate courts to him;
as also from his decision, to the council at Bern.
The nobility of Bern, though born to be judges, are not always instructed
in law. It has therefore been thought requisite, to appoint a certain
number of persons, as their assessors, who have been bred to the
profession. But in case the judge should differ from those assessors, and
retain his own opinion in spite of their remonstrances, as nobility has
the precedency of law, the decision must be given according to the will
of the judge.
This office remains in the hands of the same person for the term of six
years only. I have been informed, that in some of these bailliages,
the governor may live with proper magnificence, and lay up, during the
period of his office, two or three thousand pounds, without extortion, or
unbecoming parsimony. There is no law against his being afterwards named
to another bailliage.
The executive power of the government, with all the lucrative and
honourable offices, being thus in the hands of the nobility, it may
be imagined, that the middle and lower ranks of people are poor and
oppressed. This, however, is by no means the case; for the citizens,
I mean the merchants and trades-people, seem, in general, to enjoy all
the comforts and conveniencies of life. And the peasantry is uncommonly
wealthy throughout the whole canton of Bern.
The Swiss have no objection to their nobles being their judges, and
to the principal offices of government remaining in their hands. They
look upon the nobility as their natural superiors, and think, that
they and their families ought to be supported with a certain degree of
splendor:—But the power of direct taxation is a different question, and
must be managed with all possible caution and delicacy. It is a common
cause, and the conduct of the nobles in this particular is watched with
very jealous eyes. They are sufficiently aware of this, and use their
power with moderation. But lest the nobles should at any time forget, a
very good hint is given in a German inscription in the arsenal, implying,
That the insolence and rapacity of high rank had brought about the
liberty of Switzerland.
A people who have always arms in their hands, and form the only military
force of the country, are in no danger of being oppressed and irritated
with taxes.
It has been considered by some as a pernicious policy in the Swiss,
to allow so many of their inhabitants to serve as mercenaries in the
different armies of Europe. There are others, who consider this measure
as expedient, or less pernicious in the Swiss cantons, than it would be
in any other country.
They who support this opinion, assert, that every part of Switzerland,
which is capable of cultivation, is already improved to the highest
degree; that, after retaining a sufficient number of hands to keep it
always in this condition, and for the support of every manufactory, still
there remains a surplus of inhabitants, which forms the troops that are
allowed to go into foreign services. They add, that these troops only
engage for a limited number of years, after the expiration of which,
many of them return with money to their native country; and all of them,
by stipulation, may be recalled by the state on any emergency.—By this
means, they retain a numerous and well-disciplined army on foot; which,
so far from being a burden, in reality enriches the state:—an advantage
which no other people ever possessed.
There is still another motive for this measure, which, though it be not
openly avowed, yet, I suspect, has considerable weight: The council are
perhaps afraid, that if the young nobility were kept at home, where they
could have but few objects to occupy them, they might cabal and spread
dissentions in the state; or perhaps, through idleness and ambition,
excite dangerous insurrections among the peasants. For, although the laws
are severe against state crimes, and easily put in execution against
ordinary offenders, it might be difficult and dangerous to punish a
popular young nobleman.
It may on these accounts be thought highly prudent, to allow a large
proportion of them to exhaust, in some foreign service, the fiery and
restless years of youth, which at home might have been spent in faction
and dangerous intrigues. Very probably the states would incline to permit
the officers to go, while they retained the private men at home; but
are under a necessity of allowing the latter also, because without them
the officers could not be raised to those distinguished situations in
foreign services which are their greatest inducements to leave their own
country.
After having served a certain time, almost all of them return to
Switzerland. Some, because they are tired of dissipation; others to
inherit a paternal estate; and many with pensions from the Princes they
have served.—The heat of youth is then most probably over.—They begin to
aspire to those offices in their own country to which their birth gives
them a claim, and which they now prefer to the lustre of military rank.
They wish to support those laws, and that government, which they find so
partial to their families; or they desire to pass the remainder of life
in ease and retirement on their paternal estates.
It is remarkable, that the Swiss officers, who return from foreign
services, particularly that of France, instead of importing French
manners to their native mountains, and infecting their countrymen with
the luxuries and fopperies of that nation, throw off all foreign airs
with their uniform, and immediately resume the plain and frugal style of
life which prevails in their own country.