abandoned those coasts, the same being so much frequented by Christians;
but in the north are savages altogether harmless. Touching the
commodities of this country, serving either for sustentation of
inhabitants or for maintenance of traffic, there are and may be made
divers; so that it seemeth that nature hath recompensed that only defect
and incommodity of some sharp cold, by many benefits; namely, with
incredible quantity, and no less variety, of kinds of fish in the sea
and fresh waters, as trouts, salmons, and other fish to us unknown; also
cod, which alone draweth many nations thither, and is become the most
famous fishing of the world; abundance of whales, for which also is a
very great trade in the bays of Placentia and the Grand Bay, where is
made train oil of the whale; herring, the largest that have been heard
of, and exceeding the Marstrand herring of Norway; but hitherto was
never benefit taken of the herring fishing. There are sundry other
fish very delicate, namely, the bonito, lobsters, turbot, with others
infinite not sought after; oysters having pearl but not orient in
colour; I took it, by reason they were not gathered in season.
Concerning the inland commodities, as well to be drawn from this land,
as from the exceeding large countries adjoining, there is nothing which
our east and northerly countries of Europe do yield, but the like also
may be made in them as plentifully, by time and industry; namely, resin,
pitch, tar, soap-ashes, deal-board, masts for ships, hides, furs, flax,
hemp, corn, cables, cordage, linen cloth, metals, and many more. All
which the countries will afford, and the soil is apt to yield. The trees
for the most in those south parts are fir-trees, pine, and cypress, all
yielding gum and turpentine. Cherry trees bearing fruit no bigger than a
small pease. Also pear-trees, but fruitless. Other trees of some sort
to us unknown. The soil along the coast is not deep of earth, bringing
forth abundantly peasen small, yet good feeding for cattle. Roses
passing sweet, like unto our musk roses in form; raspises; a berry which
we call whorts, good and wholesome to eat. The grass and herb doth
fat sheep in very short space, proved by English merchants which have
carried sheep thither for fresh victual and had them raised exceeding
fat in less than three weeks. Peasen which our countrymen have sown in
the time of May, have come up fair, and been gathered in the beginning
of August, of which our General had a present acceptable for the
rareness, being the first fruits coming up by art and industry in that
desolate and dishabited land. Lakes or pools of fresh water, both on the
tops of mountains and in the valleys; in which are said to be muscles
not unlike to have pearl, which I had put in trial, if by mischance
falling unto me I had not been letted from that and other good
experiments I was minded to make. Fowl both of water and land in great
plenty and diversity. All kind of green fowl; others as big as bustards,
yet not the same. A great white fowl called of some a gaunt. Upon the
land divers sort of hawks, as falcons, and others by report. Partridges
most plentiful, larger than ours, grey and white of colour, and
rough-footed like doves, which our men after one flight did kill
with cudgels, they were so fat and unable to fly. Birds, some like
blackbirds, linnets, canary birds, and other very small. Beasts of
sundry kinds; red deer, buffles, or a beast as it seemeth by the tract
and foot very large, in manner of an ox. Bears, ounces or leopards, some
greater and some lesser; wolves, foxes, which to the northward a little
farther are black, whose fur is esteemed in some countries of Europe
very rich. Otters, beavers, marterns; and in the opinion of most men
that saw it, the General had brought unto him a sable alive, which he
sent unto his brother, Sir John Gilbert, Knight, of Devonshire, but it
was never delivered, as after I understood. We could not observe
the hundredth part of creatures in those unhabited lands; but these
mentioned may induce us to glorify the magnificent God, who hath
super-abundantly replenished the earth with creatures serving for the
use of man, though man hath not used the fifth part of the same, which
the more doth aggravate the fault and foolish sloth in many of our
nations, choosing rather to live indirectly, and very miserably to live
and die within this realm pestered with inhabitants, then to adventure
as becometh men, to obtain an habitation in those remote lands, in which
nature very prodigally doth minister unto men's endeavours, and for art
to work upon. For besides these already recounted and infinite more, the
mountains generally make shew of mineral substance; iron very common,
lead, and somewhere copper. I will not aver of richer metals; albeit by
the circumstances following, more than hope may be conceived thereof.
For amongst other charges given to enquire out the singularities of
this country, the General was most curious in the search of metals,
commanding the mineral-man and refiner especially to be diligent. The
same was a Saxon born, honest, and religious, named Daniel. Who after
search brought at first some sort of ore, seeming rather to be iron than
other metal. The next time he found ore, which with no small show of
contentment he delivered unto the General, using protestation that if
silver were the thing which might satisfy the General and his followers,
there it was, advising him to seek no further; the peril whereof he
undertook upon his life (as dear unto him as the crown of England
unto her Majesty, that I may use his own words) if it fell not out
accordingly.
Myself at this instant liker to die than to live, by a mischance, could
not follow this confident opinion of our refiner to my own satisfaction;
but afterward demanding our General's opinion therein, and to have some
part of the ore, he replied, _Content yourself, I have seen enough; and
were it but to satisfy my private humour, I would proceed no further.
The promise unto my friends, and necessity to bring also the south
countries within compass of my patent near expired, as we have already
done these north parts, do only persuade me further. And touching the
ore, I have sent it aboard, whereof I would have no speech to be made so
long as we remain within harbour; here being both Portugals, Biscayans,
and Frenchmen, not far off, from whom must be kept any bruit or
muttering of such matter. When we are at sea, proof shall be made; if
it be our desire, we may return the sooner hither again._ Whose answer
I judged reasonable, and contenting me well; wherewith I will conclude
this narration and description of the Newfoundland, and proceed to the
rest of our voyage, which ended tragically.
While the better sort of us were seriously occupied in repairing our
wants, and contriving of matters for the commodity of our voyage, others
of another sort and disposition were plotting of mischief; some casting
to steal away our shipping by night, watching opportunity by the
General's and captains' lying on the shore; whose conspiracies
discovered, they were prevented. Others drew together in company, and
carried away out of the harbours adjoining a ship laden with fish,
setting the poor men on shore. A great many more of our people stole
into the woods to hide themselves, attending time and means to return
home by such shipping as daily departed from the coast. Some were
sick of fluxes, and many dead; and in brief, by one means or other our
company was diminished, and many by the General licensed to return home.
Insomuch as after we had reviewed our people, resolved to see an end of
our voyage, we grew scant of men to furnish all our shipping; it seemed
good thereof unto the General to leave the _Swallow_ with such provision
as might be spared for transporting home the sick people.
The captain of the _Delight_ or Admiral, returned into England, in whose
stead was appointed captain Maurice Browne, before the captain of the
_Swallow_; who also brought with him into the _Delight_ all his men of
the _Swallow_, which before have been noted of outrage perpetrated and
committed upon fishermen there met at sea.
The General made choice to go in his frigate the _Squirrel_, whereof
the captain also was amongst them that returned into England; the same
frigate being most convenient to discover upon the coast, and to search
into every harbour or creek, which a great ship could not do. Therefore
the frigate was prepared with her nettings and fights, and overcharged
with bases and such small ordnance, more to give a show, than with
judgment to foresee unto the safety of her and the men, which afterward
was an occasion also of their overthrow.
Now having made ready our shipping, that is to say, the _Delight_, the
_Golden Hind_, and the _Squirrel_, we put aboard our provision, which
was wines, bread or rusk, fish wet and dry, sweet oils, besides many
other, as marmalades, figs, limons barrelled, and such like. Also we had
other necessary provision for trimming our ships, nets and lines to fish
withal, boats or pinnaces fit for discovery. In brief, we were supplied
of our wants commodiously, as if we had been in a country or some city
populous and plentiful of all things.
We departed from this harbour of St. John's upon Tuesday, the 20 of
August, which we found by exact observation to be in 47 degrees 40
minutes; and the next day by night we were at Cape Race, 25 leagues from
the same harborough. This cape lieth south-south-west from St. John's;
it is a low land, being off from the cape about half a league; within
the sea riseth up a rock against the point of the cape, which thereby is
easily known. It is in latitude 46 degrees 25 minutes. Under this cape
we were becalmed a small time, during which we laid out hooks and lines
to take cod, and drew in less than two hours fish so large and in such
abundance, that many days after we fed upon no other provision. From
hence we shaped our course unto the island of Sablon, if conveniently it
would so fall out, also directly to Cape Breton.
Sablon lieth to the seaward of Cape Breton about 25 leagues, whither we
were determined to go upon intelligence we had of a Portugal, during our
abode in St. John's, who was himself present when the Portugals, above
thirty years past, did put into the same island both neat and swine to
breed, which were since exceedingly multiplied. This seemed unto us very
happy tidings, to have in an island lying so near unto the main, which
we intended to plant upon, such store of cattle, whereby we might at
all times conveniently be relieved of victual, and served of store for
breed.
In this course we trended along the coast, which from Cape Race
stretcheth into the north-west, making a bay which some called Trepassa.
Then it goeth out again towards the west, and maketh a point, which with
Cape Race lieth in manner east and west. But this point inclineth to the
north, to the west of which goeth in the Bay of Placentia. We sent men
on land to take view of the soil along this coast, whereof they made
good report, and some of them had will to be planted there. They saw
pease growing in great abundance everywhere.
The distance between Cape Race and Cape Breton is 87 leagues; in which
navigation we spent eight days, having many times the wind indifferent
good, yet could we never attain sight of any land all that time, seeing
we were hindered by the current. At last we fell into such flats and
dangers that hardly any of us escaped; where nevertheless we lost our
Admiral (the _Delight_) with all the men and provisions, not knowing
certainly the place. Yet for inducing men of skill to make conjecture,
by our course and way we held from Cape Race thither, that thereby the
flats and dangers may be inserted in sea cards, for warning to others
that may follow the same course hereafter, I have set down the best
reckonings that were kept by expert men, William Cox, Master of the
_Hind_, and John Paul, his mate, both of Limehouse. . . . Our course we
held in clearing us of these flats was east-south-east, and south-east,
and south, fourteen leagues, with a marvellous scant wind.
Upon Tuesday, the 27 of August, toward the evening, our General caused
them in his frigate to sound, who found white sand at 35 fathom, being
then in latitude about 44 degrees. Wednesday, toward night, the wind
came south, and we bare with the land all that night, west-north-west,
contrary to the mind of Master Cox; nevertheless we followed the
Admiral, deprived of power to prevent a mischief, which by no
contradiction could be brought to hold another course, alleging they
could not make the ship to work better, nor to lie otherways. The
evening was fair and pleasant, yet not without token of storm to ensue,
and most part of this Wednesday night, like the swan that singeth before
her death, they in the Admiral, or _Delight_, continued in sounding of
trumpets, with drums and fifes; also winding the cornets and hautboys,
and in the end of their jollity, left with the battle and ringing of
doleful knells. Towards the evening also we caught in the _Golden Hind_
a very mighty porpoise with harping iron, having first stricken divers
of them, and brought away part of their flesh sticking upon the iron,
but could recover only that one. These also, passing through the ocean
in herds, did portend storm. I omit to recite frivolous report by them
in the frigate, of strange voices the same night, which scared some from
the helm.
Thursday, the 29 of August, the wind rose, and blew vehemently at south
and by east, bringing withal rain and thick mist, so that we could
not see a cable length before us; and betimes in the morning we were
altogether run and folded in amongst flats and sands, amongst which
we found shoal and deep in every three or four ships' length, after we
began to sound; but first we were upon them unawares, until Master Cox
looking out, discerned, in his judgment, white cliffs, crying _Land!_
withal; though we could not afterward descry any land, it being very
likely the breaking of the sea white, which seemed to be white cliffs,
through the haze and thick weather.
Immediately tokens were given unto the _Delight_, to cast about to
seaward, which, being the greater ship, and of burthen 120 tons, was yet
foremost upon the breach, keeping so ill watch, that they knew not the
danger, before they felt the same, too late to recover it; for presently
the Admiral struck aground, and has soon after her stern and hinder
parts beaten in pieces; whereupon the rest (that is to say, the
frigate, in which was the General, and the _Golden Hind_) cast about
east-south-east, bearing to the south, even for our lives, into the
wind's eye, because that way carried us to the seaward. Making out from
this danger, we sounded one while seven fathom, then five fathom, then
four fathom and less, again deeper, immediately four fathom then but
three fathom, the sea going mightily and high. At last we recovered, God
be thanked, in some despair, to sea room enough.
In this distress, we had vigilant eye unto the Admiral, whom we saw cast
away, without power to give the men succour, neither could we espy any
of the men that leaped overboard to save themselves, either in the
same pinnace, or cock, or upon rafters, and such like means presenting
themselves to men in those extremities, for we desired to save the men
by every possible means. But all in vain, sith God had determined their
ruin; yet all that day, and part of the next, we beat up and down as
near unto the wrack as was possible for us, looking out if by good hap
we might espy any of them.
This was a heavy and grievous event, to lose at one blow our chief ship
freighted with great provision, gathered together with much travail,
care, long time, and difficulty; but more was the loss of our men,
which perished to the number almost of a hundred souls. Amongst whom was
drowned a learned man, a Hungarian (Stephen Parmenius), born in the
city of Buda, called thereof Budoeus, who, of piety and zeal to good
attempts, adventured in this action, minding to record in the Latin
tongue the gests and things worthy of remembrance, happening in this
discovery, to the honour of our nations, the same being adorned with the
eloquent style of this orator and rare poet of our time.
Here also perished our Saxon refiner and discoverer of inestimable
riches, as it was left amongst some of us in undoubted hope. No less
heavy was the loss of the captain, Maurice Browne, a virtuous, honest,
and discreet gentleman, overseen only in liberty given late before
to men that ought to have been restrained, who showed himself a man
resolved, and never unprepared for death, as by his last act of
this tragedy appeared, by report of them that escaped this wrack
miraculously, as shall be hereafter declared. For when all hope was past
of recovering the ship, and that men began to give over, and to save
themselves, the captain was advised before to shift also for his life,
by the pinnace at the stern of the ship; but refusing that counsel, he
would not give example with the first to leave the ship, but used all
means to exhort his people not to despair, nor so to leave off their
labour, choosing rather to die than to incur infamy by forsaking
his charge, which then might be thought to have perished through his
default, showing an ill precedent unto his men, by leaving the ship
first himself. With this mind he mounted upon the highest deck, where he
attended imminent death, and unavoidable; how long, I leave it to God,
who withdraweth not his comfort from his servants at such times.
In the mean season, certain, to the number of fourteen persons, leaped
into a small pinnace, the bigness of a Thames barge, which was made in
the Newfoundland, cut off the rope wherewith it was towed, and committed
themselves to God's mercy, amidst the storm, and rage of sea and winds,
destitute of food, not so much as a drop of fresh water. The boat
seeming overcharged in foul weather with company, Edward Headly, a
valiant soldier, and well reputed of his company, preferring the greater
to the lesser, thought better that some of them perished than all, made
this motion, to cast lots, and them to be thrown overboard upon whom
the lots fell, thereby to lighten the boat, which otherways seemed
impossible to live, and offered himself with the first, content to take
his adventure gladly: which nevertheless Richard Clarke, that was master
of the Admiral, and one of this number, refused, advising to abide
God's pleasure, who was able to save all, as well as a few. The boat was
carried before the wind, continuing six days and nights in the
ocean, and arrived at last with the men, alive, but weak, upon the
Newfoundland, saving that the foresaid Headly, who had been late sick,
and another called of us Brazil, of his travel into those countries,
died by the way, famished, and less able to hold out than those of
better health. . . . Thus whom God delivered from drowning, he appointed
to be famished; who doth give limits to man's times, and ordaineth the
manner and circumstance of dying: whom, again, he will preserve,
neither sea nor famine can confound. For those that arrived upon the
Newfoundland were brought into France by certain Frenchmen, then being
upon the coast.
After this heavy chance, we continued in beating the sea up and down,
expecting when the weather would clear up that we might yet bear in
with the land, which we judged not far off either the continent or some
island. For we many times, and in sundry places found ground at 50, 45,
40 fathoms, and less. The ground coming upon our lead, being sometime
cozy sand and other while a broad shell, with a little sand about it.
Our people lost courage daily after this ill success, the weather
continuing thick and blustering, with increase of cold, winter drawing
on, which took from them all hope of amendment, settling an assurance of
worse weather to grow upon us every day. The leeside of us lay full of
flats and dangers, inevitable if the wind blew hard at south. Some again
doubted we were ingulfed in the Bay of St. Lawrence, the coast full of
dangers, and unto us unknown. But above all, provision waxed scant,
and hope of supply was gone with the loss of our Admiral. Those in the
frigate were already pinched with spare allowance, and want of clothes
chiefly: thereupon they besought the General to return to England before
they all perished. And to them of the _Golden Hind_ they made signs
of distress, pointing to their mouths, and to their clothes thin and
ragged: then immediately they also of the _Golden Hind_ grew to be of
the same opinion and desire to return home.
The former reasons having also moved the General to have compassion of
his poor men, in whom he saw no want of good will, but of means fit to
perform the action they came for, he resolved upon retire: and calling
the captain and master of the _Hind_, he yielded them many reasons,
enforcing this unexpected return, withal protesting himself greatly
satisfied with that he had seen and knew already, reiterating these
words: _Be content, we have seen enough, and take no care of expense
past: I will set you forth royally the next spring, if God send us safe
home. Therefore I pray you let us no longer strive here, where we
fight against the elements._ Omitting circumstance, how unwillingly the
captain and master of the _Hind_ condescended to this motion, his own
company can testify; yet comforted with the General's promise of a
speedy return at spring, and induced by other apparent reasons, proving
an impossibility to accomplish the action at that time, it was concluded
on all hands to retire.
So upon Saturday in the afternoon, the 31 of August, we changed our
course, and returned back for England. At which very instant, even in
winding about, there passed along between us and towards the land which
we now forsook a very lion to our seeming, in shape, hair, and colour,
not swimming after the manner of a beast by moving of his feet, but
rather sliding upon the water with his whole body excepting the legs,
in sight, neither yet diving under, and again rising above the water,
as the manner is of whales, dolphins, tunnies, porpoises, and all
other fish: but confidently showing himself above water without hiding:
notwithstanding, we presented ourselves in open view and gesture to
amaze him, as all creatures will be commonly at a sudden gaze and sight
of men. Thus he passed along turning his head to and fro, yawing and
gaping wide, with ugly demonstration of long teeth, and glaring eyes;
and to bid us a farewell, coming right against the _Hind_, he sent forth
a horrible voice, roaring or bellowing as doth a lion, which spectacle
we all beheld so far as we were able to discern the same, as men prone
to wonder at every strange thing, as this doubtless was, to see a lion
in the ocean sea, or fish in shape of a lion. What opinion others had
thereof, and chiefly the General himself, I forbear to deliver: but he
took it for _bonum omen_, rejoicing that he was in war against such
an enemy, if it were the devil. The wind was large for England at our
return, but very high, and the sea rough, insomuch as the frigate,
wherein the General went, was almost swallowed up.
Monday in the afternoon we passed in sight of Cape Race, having made as
much way in little more than two days and nights back again, as before
we had done in eight days from Cape Race unto the place where our ship
perished. Which hindrance thitherward, and speed back again, is to be
imputed unto the swift current, as well as to the winds, which we
had more large in our return. This Monday the General came aboard the
_Hind_, to have the surgeon of the _Hind_ to dress his foot, which he
hurt by treading upon a nail: at which time we comforted each other
with hope of hard success to be all past, and of the good to come.
So agreeing to carry out lights always by night, that we might keep
together, he departed into his frigate, being by no means to be
entreated to tarry in the _Hind_, which had been more for his security.
Immediately after followed a sharp storm, which we over passed for that
time, praised be God.