Produced by Dagny; John Bickers
SIR HUMPHREY GILBERT'S VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND
By Edward Hayes
PREPARER'S NOTE
This text is one of the items included in Voyages and Travels:
Ancient and Modern and was prepared from a 1910 edition,
published by P F Collier & Son Company, New York.
INTRODUCTORY NOTE
Sir Humphrey Gilbert, the founder of the first English colony in North
America, was born about 1539, the son of a Devonshire gentleman,
whose widow afterward married the father of Sir Walter Raleigh. He was
educated at Eton and Oxford, served under Sir Philip Sidney's father in
Ireland, and fought for the Netherlands against Spain. After his return
he composed a pamphlet urging the search for a northwest passage to
Cathay, which led to Frobisher's license for his explorations to that
end.
In 1578 Gilbert obtained from Queen Elizabeth the charter he had long
sought, to plant a colony in North America. His first attempt failed,
and cost him his whole fortune; but, after further service in Ireland,
he sailed again in 1583 for Newfoundland. In the August of that year he
took possession of the harbor of St. John and founded his colony, but
on the return voyage he went down with his ship in a storm south of the
Azores.
The following narrative is an account of this last voyage of Gilbert's,
told by Edward Hayes, commander of "The Golden Hind," the only one to
reach England of the three ships which set out from Newfoundland with
Gilbert.
The settlement at St. John was viewed by its promoter as merely the
beginning of a scheme for ousting Spain from America in favor of
England. The plan did not progress as he hoped; but after long delays,
and under far other impulses than Gilbert ever thought of, much of his
dream was realized.
SIR HUMPHREY GILBERT'S VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND
A report of the Voyage and success thereof, attempted in the year of
our Lord 1583, by Sir Humphrey Gilbert, Knight, with other gentlemen
assisting him in that action, intended to discover and to plant
Christian inhabitants in place convenient, upon those large and ample
countries extended northward from the Cape of Florida, lying under very
temperate climes, esteemed fertile and rich in minerals, yet not in the
actual possession of any Christian prince. Written by Mr. Edward
Hayes, gentleman, and principal actor in the same voyage,[*] who alone
continued unto the end, and, by God's special assistance, returned home
with his retinue safe and entire.
[*] Hayes was captain and owner of the _Golden Hind_,
Gilbert's Rear-Admiral.
Many voyages have been pretended, yet hitherto never any thoroughly
accomplished by our nation, of exact discovery into the bowels of those
main, ample, and vast countries extended infinitely into the north from
thirty degrees, or rather from twenty-five degrees, of septentrional
latitude, neither hath a right way been taken of planting a Christian
habitation and regiment (government) upon the same, as well may appear
both by the little we yet do actually possess therein, and by our
ignorance of the riches and secrets within those lands, which unto this
day we know chiefly by the travel and report of other nations, and most
of the French, who albeit they cannot challenge such right and interest
unto the said countries as we, neither these many years have had
opportunity nor means so great to discover and to plant, being vexed
with the calamities of intestine wars, as we have had by the inestimable
benefit of our long and happy peace, yet have they both ways performed
more, and had long since attained a sure possession and settled
government of many provinces in those northerly parts of _America_, if
their many attempts into those foreign and remote lands had not been
impeached by their garboils at home.
The first discovery of these coasts, never heard of before, was well
begun by John Cabot the father and Sebastian his son, an Englishman
born, who were the first finders out of all that great tract of land
stretching from the Cape of Florida, into those islands which we now
call the Newfoundland; all which they brought and annexed unto the crown
of England. Since when, if with like diligence the search of inland
countries had been followed, as the discovery upon the coast and
outparts thereof was performed by those two men, no doubt her Majesty's
territories and revenue had been mightily enlarged and advanced by this
day; and, which is more, the seed of Christian religion had been sowed
amongst those pagans, which by this time might have brought forth a most
plentiful harvest and copious congregation of Christians; which must
be the chief intent of such as shall make any attempt that way; or else
whatsoever is builded upon other foundation shall never obtain happy
success nor continuance.
And although we cannot precisely judge (which only belongeth to God)
what have been the humours of men stirred up to great attempts of
discovering and planting in those remote countries, yet the events do
shew that either God's cause hath not been chiefly preferred by them, or
else God hath not permitted so abundant grace as the light of His word
and knowledge of Him to be yet revealed unto those infidels before the
appointed time. But most assuredly, the only cause of religion hitherto
hath kept back, and will also bring forward at the time assigned by God,
an effectual and complete discovery and possession by Christians both
of those ample countries and the riches within them hitherto concealed;
whereof, notwithstanding, God in His wisdom hath permitted to be
revealed from time to time a certain obscure and misty knowledge, by
little and little to allure the minds of men that way, which else will
be dull enough in the zeal of His cause, and thereby to prepare us unto
a readiness for the execution of His will, against the due time ordained
of calling those pagans unto Christianity.
In the meanwhile it behoveth every man of great calling, in whom is any
instinct of inclination unto this attempt, to examine his own motions,
which, if the same proceed of ambition or avarice, he may assure himself
it cometh not of God, and therefore cannot have confidence of God's
protection and assistance against the violence (else irresistible) both
of sea and infinite perils upon the land; whom God yet may use as an
instrument to further His cause and glory some way, but not to build
upon so bad a foundation. Otherwise, if his motives be derived from
a virtuous and heroical mind, preferring chiefly the honour of God,
compassion of poor infidels captived by the devil, tyrannizing in most
wonderful and dreadful manner over their bodies and souls; advancement
of his honest and well-disposed countrymen, willing to accompany him
in such honourable actions; relief of sundry people within this realm
distressed; all these be honourable purposes, imitating the nature of
the munificent God, wherewith He is well pleased, who will assist such
an actor beyond expectation of many. And the same, who feeleth this
inclination in himself, by all likelihood may hope or rather confidently
repose in the preordinance of God, that in this last age of the world
(or likely never) the time is complete of receiving also these gentiles
into His mercy, and that God will raise Him an instrument to effect the
same; it seeming probable by event of precedent attempts made by the
Spaniards and French sundry times, that the countries lying north of
Florida God hath reserved the same to be reduced into Christian civility
by the English nation. For not long after that Christopher Columbus had
discovered the islands and continent of the West Indies for Spain,
John and Sebastian Cabot made discovery also of the rest from Florida
northwards to the behoof of England.
And whensoever afterwards the Spaniards, very prosperous in all their
southern discoveries, did attempt anything into Florida and those
regions inclining towards the north, they proved most unhappy, and were
at length discouraged utterly by the hard and lamentable success of
many both religious and valiant in arms, endeavouring to bring those
northerly regions also under the Spanish jurisdiction, as if God had
prescribed limits unto the Spanish nation which they might not exceed;
as by their own gests recorded may be aptly gathered.
The French, as they can pretend less title unto these northern parts
than the Spaniard, by how much the Spaniard made the first discovery of
the same continent so far northward as unto Florida, and the French did
but review that before discovered by the English nation, usurping upon
our right, and imposing names upon countries, rivers, bays, capes, or
headlands as if they had been the first finders of those coasts; which
injury we offered not unto the Spaniards, but left off to discover
when we approached the Spanish limits; even so God hath not hitherto
permitted them to establish a possession permanent upon another's right,
notwithstanding their manifold attempts, in which the issue hath been
no less tragical than that of the Spaniards, as by their own reports is
extant.
Then, seeing the English nation only hath right unto these countries
of America from the Cape of Florida northward by the privilege of first
discovery, unto which Cabot was authorised by regal authority, and set
forth by the expense of our late famous King Henry the Seventh; which
right also seemeth strongly defended on our behalf by the powerful hand
of Almighty God withstanding the enterprises of other nations; it may
greatly encourage us upon so just ground, as is our right, and upon so
sacred an intent, as to plant religion (our right and intent being meet
foundations for the same), to prosecute effectually the full possession
of those so ample and pleasant countries appertaining unto the crown of
England; the same, as is to be conjectured by infallible arguments of
the world's end approaching, being now arrived unto the time of God
prescribed of their vocation, if ever their calling unto the knowledge
of God may be expected. Which also is very probable by the revolution
and course of God's word and religion, which from the beginning hath
moved from the east towards, and at last unto, the west, where it is
like to end, unless the same begin again where it did in the east, which
were to expect a like world again. But we are assured of the contrary by
the prophecy of Christ, whereby we gather that after His word preached
throughout the world shall be the end. And as the Gospel when it
descended westward began in the south, and afterward begun in the south
countries of America, no less hope may be gathered that it will also
spread into the north.
These considerations may help to suppress all dreads rising of hard
events in attempts made this way by other nations, as also of the heavy
success and issue in the late enterprise made by a worthy gentleman
our countryman, Sir Humfrey Gilbert, Knight, who was the first of our
nations that carried people to erect an habitation and government in
those northerly countries of America. About which albeit he had consumed
much substance, and lost his life at last, his people also perishing for
the most part: yet the mystery thereof we must leave unto God, and judge
charitably both of the cause, which was just in all pretence, and of
the person, who was very zealous in prosecuting the same, deserving
honourable remembrance for his good mind and expense of life in so
virtuous an enterprise. Whereby nevertheless, lest any man should be
dismayed by example of other folks' calamity, and misdeem that God doth
resist all attempts intended that way, I thought good, so far as myself
was an eye-witness, to deliver the circumstance and manner of our
proceedings in that action; in which the gentleman was so unfortunately
encumbered with wants, and worse matched with many ill-disposed people,
that his rare judgment and regiment premeditated for those affairs was
subjected to tolerate abuses, and in sundry extremities to hold on a
course more to uphold credit than likely in his own conceit happily to
succeed.
The issue of such actions, being always miserable, not guided by God,
who abhorreth confusion and disorder, hath left this for admonition,
being the first attempt by our nation to plant, unto such as shall take
the same cause in hand hereafter, not to be discouraged from it; but to
make men well advised how they handle His so high and excellent
matters, as the carriage is of His word into those very mighty and
vast countries. An action doubtless not to be intermeddled with base
purposes, as many have made the same but a colour to shadow actions
otherwise scarce justifiable; which doth excite God's heavy judgments
in the end, to the terrifying of weak minds from the cause, without
pondering His just proceedings; and doth also incense foreign princes
against our attempts, how just soever, who cannot but deem the sequel
very dangerous unto their state (if in those parts we should grow to
strength), seeing the very beginnings are entered with spoil.
And with this admonition denounced upon zeal towards God's cause, also
towards those in whom appeareth disposition honourable unto this action
of planting Christian people and religion in those remote and barbarous
nations of America (unto whom I wish all happiness), I will now proceed
to make relations briefly, yet particularly, of our voyage undertaken
with Sir Humfrey Gilbert, begun, continued, and ended adversely.
When first Sir Humfrey Gilbert undertook the western discovery of
America, and had procured from her Majesty a very large commission to
inhabit and possess at his choice all remote and heathen lands not
in the actual possession of any Christian prince, the same commission
exemplified with many privileges, such as in his discretion he might
demand, very many gentlemen of good estimation drew unto him, to
associate him in so commendable an enterprise, so that the preparation
was expected to grow unto a puissant fleet, able to encounter a king's
power by sea. Nevertheless, amongst a multitude of voluntary men, their
dispositions were diverse, which bred a jar, and made a division in the
end, to the confusion of that attempt even before the same was begun.
And when the shipping was in a manner prepared, and men ready upon
the coast to go aboard, at that time some brake consort, and followed
courses degenerating from the voyage before pretended. Others failed
of their promises contracted, and the greater number were dispersed,
leaving the General with few of his assured friends, with whom he
adventured to sea; where, having tasted of no less misfortune, he was
shortly driven to retire home with the loss of a tall ship and, more to
his grief, of a valiant gentleman, Miles Morgan.
Having buried, only in a preparation, a great mass of substance, whereby
his estate was impaired, his mind yet not dismayed, he continued his
former designment, and purposed to revive this enterprise, good occasion
serving. Upon which determination standing long without means to satisfy
his desire, at last he granted certain assignments out of his commission
to sundry persons of mean ability, desiring the privilege of his grant,
to plant and fortify in the north parts of America about the river of
Canada; to whom if God gave good success in the north parts (where then
no matter of moment was expected), the same, he thought, would
greatly advance the hope of the south, and be a furtherance unto his
determination that way. And the worst that might happen in that course
might be excused, without prejudice unto him, by the former supposition
that those north regions were of no regard. But chiefly, a possession
taken in any parcel of those heathen countries, by virtue of his grant,
did invest him of territories extending every way 200 leagues; which
induced Sir Humfrey Gilbert to make those assignments, desiring greatly
their expedition, because his commission did expire after six years, if
in that space he had not gotten actual possession.
Time went away without anything done by his assigns; insomuch that
at last he must resolve himself to take a voyage in person, for more
assurance to keep his patent in force, which then almost was expired or
within two years. In furtherance of his determination, amongst others,
Sir George Peckham, Knight, shewed himself very zealous to the action,
greatly aiding him both by his advice and in the charge. Other gentlemen
to their ability joined unto him, resolving to adventure their substance
and lives in the same cause. Who beginning their preparation from that
time, both of shipping, munition, victual, men, and things requisite,
some of them continued the charge two years complete without
intermission. Such were the difficulties and cross accidents opposing
these proceedings, which took not end in less than two years; many of
which circumstances I will omit.
The last place of our assembly, before we left the coast of England,
was in Cawset Bay, near unto Plymouth, then resolved to put unto the
sea with shipping and provision such as we had, before our store yet
remaining, but chiefly the time and season of the year, were too far
spent. Nevertheless, it seemed first very doubtful by what way to shape
our course, and to begin our intended discovery, either from the south
northward or from the north southward. The first, that is, beginning
south, without all controversy was the likeliest, wherein we were
assured to have commodity of the current which from the Cape of Florida
setteth northward, and would have furthered greatly our navigation,
discovering from the foresaid cape along towards Cape Breton, and all
those lands lying to the north. Also, the year being far spent, and
arrived to the month of June, we were not to spend time in northerly
courses, where we should be surprised with timely winter, but to covet
the south, which we had space enough then to have attained, and there
might with less detriment have wintered that season, being more mild
and short in the south than in the north, where winter is both long and
rigorous. These and other like reasons alleged in favour of the southern
course first to be taken, to the contrary was inferred that forasmuch as
both our victuals and many other needful provisions were diminished and
left insufficient for so long a voyage and for the wintering of so many
men, we ought to shape a course most likely to minister supply; and that
was to take the Newfoundland in our way, which was but 700 leagues from
our English coast. Where being usually at that time of the year, and
until the fine of August, a multitude of ships repairing thither for
fish, we should be relieved abundantly with many necessaries, which,
after the fishing ended, they might well spare and freely impart
unto us. Not staying long upon that Newland coast, we might proceed
southward, and follow still the sun, until we arrived at places more
temperate to our content.
By which reasons we were the rather induced to follow this northerly
course, obeying unto necessity, which must be supplied. Otherwise, we
doubted that sudden approach of winter, bringing with it continual
fog and thick mists, tempest and rage of weather, also contrariety of
currents descending from the Cape of Florida unto Cape Breton and Cape
Race, would fall out to be great and irresistible impediments unto our
further proceeding for that year, and compel us to winter in those north
and cold regions. Wherefore, suppressing all objections to the contrary,
we resolved to begin our course northward, and to follow, directly as
we might, the trade way unto Newfoundland; from whence, after our
refreshing and reparation of wants, we intended without delay, by God's
permission, to proceed into the south, not omitting any river or bay
which in all that large tract of land appeared to our view worthy of
search. Immediately we agreed upon the manner of our course and orders
to be observed in our voyage; which were delivered in writing, unto the
captains and masters of every ship a copy, in manner following.
Every ship had delivered two bullets or scrolls, the one sealed up
in wax, the other left open; in both which were included several
watchwords. That open, serving upon our own coast or the coast of
Ireland; the other sealed, was promised on all hands not to be broken up
until we should be clear of the Irish coast; which from thenceforth
did serve until we arrived and met all together in such harbours of
the Newfoundland as were agreed for our rendezvous. The said watchwords
being requisite to know our consorts whensoever by night, either by
fortune of weather, our fleet dispersed should come together again; or
one should hail another; or if by ill watch and steerage one ship should
chance to fall aboard of another in the dark.
The reason of the bullet sealed was to keep secret that watchword while
we were upon our own coast, lest any of the company stealing from the
fleet might bewray the same; which known to an enemy, he might board us
by night without mistrust, having our own watchword.
Orders agreed upon by the Captains and Masters to be observed by the
fleet of Sir Humfrey Gilbert.
First, The Admiral to carry his flag by day, and his light by night.
2. Item, if the Admiral shall shorten his sail by night, then to shew
two lights until he be answered again by every ship shewing one light
for a short time.
3. Item, if the Admiral after his shortening of sail, as aforesaid,
shall make more sail again; then he to shew three lights one above
another.
4. Item, if the Admiral shall happen to hull in the night, then to make
a wavering light over his other light, wavering the light upon a pole.
5. Item, if the fleet should happen to be scattered by weather, or other
mishap, then so soon as one shall descry another, to hoise both topsails
twice, if the weather will serve, and to strike them twice again; but
if the weather serve not, then to hoise the maintopsail twice, and
forthwith to strike it twice again.
6. Item, if it shall happen a great fog to fall, then presently every
ship to bear up with the Admiral, if there be wind; but if it be a calm,
then every ship to hull, and so to lie at hull till it clear. And if
the fog do continue long, then the Admiral to shoot off two pieces
every evening, and every ship to answer it with one shot; and every man
bearing to the ship that is to leeward so near as he may.
7. Item, every master to give charge unto the watch to look out well,
for laying aboard one of another in the night, and in fogs.
8. Item, every evening every ship to hail the Admiral, and so to fall
astern him, sailing through the ocean; and being on the coast, every
ship to hail him both morning and evening.
9. Item, if any ship be in danger in any way, by leak or otherwise,
then she to shoot off a piece, and presently to bring out one light;
whereupon every man to bear towards her, answering her with one light
for a short time, and so to put it out again; thereby to give knowledge
that they have seen her token.
10. Item, whensoever the Admiral shall hang out her ensign in the main
shrouds, then every man to come aboard her as a token of counsel.
11. Item, if there happen any storm or contrary wind to the fleet after
the discovery, whereby they are separated; then every ship to repair
unto their last good port, there to meet again.
OUR COURSE _agreed upon_.
The course first to be taken for the discovery is to bear directly to
Cape Race, the most southerly cape of Newfoundland; and there to harbour
ourselves either in Rogneux or Fermous, being the first places appointed
for our rendezvous, and the next harbours unto the northward of Cape
Race: and therefore every ship separated from the fleet to repair to
that place so fast as God shall permit, whether you shall fall to the
southward or to the northward of it, and there to stay for the meeting
of the whole fleet the space of ten days; and when you shall depart, to
leave marks.
Beginning our course from Scilly, the nearest is by west-south-west
(if the wind serve) until such time as we have brought ourselves in
the latitude of 43 or 44 degrees, because the ocean is subject much to
southerly winds in June and July. Then to take traverse from 45 to 47
degrees of latitude, if we be enforced by contrary winds; and not to go
to the northward of the height of 47 degrees of septentrional latitude
by no means, if God shall not enforce the contrary; but to do your
endeavour to keep in the height of 46 degrees, so near as you can
possibly, because Cape Race lieth about that height.
NOTE.
If by contrary winds we be driven back upon the coast of England, then
to repair unto Scilly for a place of our assembly or meeting. If we be
driven back by contrary winds that we cannot pass the coast of Ireland,
then the place of our assembly to be at Bere haven or Baltimore
haven. If we shall not happen to meet at Cape Race, then the place
of rendezvous to be at Cape Breton, or the nearest harbour unto the
westward of Cape Breton. If by means of other shipping we may not safely
stay there, then to rest at the very next safe port to the westward;
every ship leaving their marks behind them for the more certainty of the
after comers to know where to find them. The marks that every man ought
to leave in such a case, were of the General's private device written
by himself, sealed also in close wax, and delivered unto every ship
one scroll, which was not to be opened until occasion required, whereby
every man was certified what to leave for instruction of after comers;
that every of us coming into any harbour or river might know who had
been there, or whether any were still there up higher into the river, or
departed, and which way.
Orders thus determined, and promises mutually given to be observed,
every man withdrew himself unto his charge; the anchors being already
weighed, and our ships under sail, having a soft gale of wind, we began
our voyage upon Tuesday, the 11 day of June, in the year of our Lord
1583, having in our fleet (at our departure from Cawset Bay) these
ships, whose names and burthens, with the names of the captains and
masters of them, I have also inserted, as followeth:--1. The _Delight_,
alias the _George_, of burthen 120 tons, was Admiral; in which went the
General, and William Winter, captain in her and part owner, and Richard
Clarke, master. 2. The bark _Raleigh_, set forth by Master Walter
Raleigh, of the burthen of 200 tons, was then Vice-Admiral; in which
went Master Butler, captain, and Robert Davis, of Bristol, master. 3.
The _Golden Hind_, of burthen 40 tons, was then Rear-Admiral; in which
went Edward Hayes, captain and owner, and William Cox, of Limehouse,
master. 4. The _Swallow_, of burthen 40 tons; in her was captain Maurice
Browne. 5. The _Squirrel_, of burthen 10 tons; in which went captain
William Andrews, and one Cade, master. We were in number in all about
260 men; among whom we had of every faculty good choice, as shipwrights,
masons, carpenters, smiths, and such like, requisite to such an action;
also mineral men and refiners. Besides, for solace of our people, and
allurement of the savages, we were provided of music in good variety;
not omitting the least toys, as morris-dancers, hobby-horse, and
May-like conceits to delight the savage people, whom we intended to
win by all fair means possible. And to that end we were indifferently
furnished of all petty haberdashery wares to barter with those simple
people.
In this manner we set forward, departing (as hath been said) out of
Cawset Bay the 11 day of June, being Tuesday, the weather and wind fair
and good all day; but a great storm of thunder and wind fell the same
night. Thursday following, when we hailed one another in the evening,
according to the order before specified, they signified unto us out of
the Vice-Admiral, that both the captain, and very many of the men,
were fallen sick. And about midnight the Vice-Admiral forsook us,
notwithstanding we had the wind east, fair and good. But it was after
credibly reported that they were infected with a contagious sickness,
and arrived greatly distressed at Plymouth; the reason I could never
understand. Sure I am, no cost was spared by their owner, Master
Raleigh, in setting them forth; therefore I leave it unto God. By this
time we were in 48 degrees of latitude, not a little grieved with the
loss of the most puissant ship in our fleet; after whose departure the
_Golden Hind_ succeeded in the place of Vice-Admiral, and removed her
flag from the mizen into the foretop. From Saturday, the 15 of June,
until the 28, which was upon a Friday, we never had fair day without
fog or rain, and winds bad, much to the west-north-west, whereby we were
driven southward unto 41 degrees scarce.
About this time of the year the winds are commonly west towards the
Newfoundland, keeping ordinarily within two points of west to the south
or to the north; whereby the course thither falleth out to be long and
tedious after June, which in March, April, and May, hath been performed
out of England in 22 days and less. We had wind always so scant from the
west-north-west, and from west-south-west again, that our traverse was
great, running south unto 41 degrees almost, and afterwards north into
51 degrees. Also we were encumbered with much fog and mists in manner
palpable, in which we could not keep so well together, but were
discovered, losing the company of the _Swallow_ and the _Squirrel_
upon the 20 day of July, whom we met again at several places upon
the Newfoundland coast the 3 of August, as shall be declared in place
convenient. Saturday, the 27 July, we might descry, not far from us, as
it were mountains of ice driven upon the sea, being then in 50 degrees,
which were carried southward to the weather of us; whereby may be
conjectured that some current doth set that way from the north.
Before we came to Newfoundland, about 50 leagues on this side, we pass
the bank, which are high grounds rising within the sea and under water,
yet deep enough and without danger, being commonly not less than 25 and
30 fathom water upon them; the same, as it were some vein of mountains
within the sea, do run along and form the Newfoundland, beginning
northward about 52 or 53 degrees of latitude, and do extend into the
south infinitely. The breadth of this bank is somewhere more, and
somewhere less; but we found the same about ten leagues over, having
sounded both on this side thereof, and the other toward Newfoundland,
but found no ground with almost 200 fathom of line, both before and
after we had passed the bank. The Portugals, and French chiefly, have a
notable trade of fishing upon this bank, where are sometimes an hundred
or more sails of ships, who commonly begin the fishing in April, and
have ended by July. That fish is large, always wet, having no land near
to dry, and is called cod fish. During the time of fishing, a man
shall know without sounding when he is upon the bank, by the incredible
multitude of sea-fowl hovering over the same, to prey upon the offals
and garbage of fish thrown out by fishermen, and floating upon the sea.
Upon Tuesday, the 11 of June we forsook the coast of England. So again
on Tuesday, the 30 of July, seven weeks after, we got sight of land,
being immediately embayed in the Grand Bay, or some other great bay;
the certainty whereof we could not judge, so great haze and fog did hang
upon the coast, as neither we might discern the land well, nor take the
sun's height. But by our best computation we were then in the 51
degrees of latitude. Forsaking this bay and uncomfortable coast (nothing
appearing unto us but hideous rocks and mountains, bare of trees, and
void of any green herb) we followed the coast to the south, with weather
fair and clear. We had sight of an island named Penguin, of a fowl there
breeding in abundance almost incredible, which cannot fly, their wings
not able to carry their body, being very large (not much less than
a goose) and exceeding fat, which the Frenchmen use to take without
difficulty upon that island, and to barrel them up with salt. But for
lingering of time, we had made us there the like provision.
Trending this coast, we came to the island called Baccalaos, being not
past two leagues from the main; to the north thereof lieth Cape St.
Francis, five leagues distant from Baccalaos, between which goeth in a
great bay, by the vulgar sort called the Bay of Conception. Here we met
with the _Swallow_ again, whom we had lost in the fog, and all her
men altered into other apparel; whereof it seemed their store was so
amended, that for joy and congratulation of our meeting, they spared
not to cast up into the air and overboard their caps and hats in good
plenty. The captain, albeit himself was very honest and religious, yet
was he not appointed of men to his humour and desert; who for the most
part were such as had been by us surprised upon the narrow seas of
England, being pirates, and had taken at that instant certain Frenchmen
laden, one bark with wines, and another with salt. Both which we
rescued, and took the man-of-war with all her men, which was the same
ship now called the _Swallow_; following still their kind so oft as,
being separated from the General, they found opportunity to rob and
spoil. And because God's justice did follow the same company, even
to destruction, and to the overthrow also of the captain (though not
consenting to their misdemeanour) I will not conceal anything that
maketh to the manifestation and approbation of His judgments, for
examples of others; persuaded that God more sharply took revenge upon
them, and hath tolerated longer as great outrage in others, by how much
these went under protection of His cause and religion, which was then
pretended.
Therefore upon further enquiry it was known how this company met with a
bark returning home after the fishing with his freight; and because the
men in the _Swallow_ were very near scanted of victuals, and chiefly
of apparel, doubtful withal where or when to find and meet with their
Admiral, they besought the captain that they might go aboard this
_Newlander_, only to borrow what might be spared, the rather because
the same was bound homeward. Leave given, not without charge to deal
favourably, they came aboard the fisherman, whom they rifled of tackle,
sails, cables, victuals, and the men of their apparel; not sparing by
torture, winding cords about their heads, to draw out else what they
thought good. This done with expedition, like men skilful in such
mischief, as they took their cockboat to go aboard their own ship, it
was overwhelmed in the sea, and certain of these men there drowned;
the rest were preserved even by those silly souls whom they had before
spoiled, who saved and delivered them aboard the _Swallow_. What became
afterwards of the poor _Newlander_, perhaps destitute of sails and
furniture sufficient to carry them home, whither they had not less to
run than 700 leagues, God alone knoweth; who took vengeance not long
after of the rest that escaped at this instant, to reveal the fact, and
justify to the world God's judgments indicted upon them, as shall be
declared in place convenient.
Thus after we had met with the _Swallow_, we held on our course
southward, until we came against the harbour called St. John, about five
leagues from the former Cape of St. Francis, where before the entrance
into the harbour, we found also the frigate or _Squirrel_ lying at
anchor; whom the English merchants, that were and always be Admirals
by turns interchangeably over the fleets of fishermen within the same
harbour, would not permit to enter into the harbour. Glad of so happy
meeting, both of the _Swallow_ and frigate in one day, being Saturday,
the third of August, we made ready our fights, and prepared to enter
the harbour, any resistance to the contrary notwithstanding, there being
within of all nations to the number of 36 sails. But first the General
despatched a boat to give them knowledge of his coming for no ill
intent, having commission from her Majesty for his voyage he had in
hand; and immediately we followed with a slack gale, and in the very
entrance, which is but narrow, not above two butts' length, the Admiral
fell upon a rock on the larboard side by great oversight, in that the
weather was fair, the rock much above water fast by the shore, where
neither went any sea-gate. But we found such readiness in the English
merchants to help us in that danger, that without delay there were
brought a number of boats, which towed off the ship, and cleared her of
danger.
Having taken place convenient in the road, we let fall anchors, the
captains and masters repairing aboard our Admiral; whither also came
immediately the masters and owners of the fishing fleet of Englishmen,
to understand the General's intent and cause of our arrival there.
They were all satisfied when the General had shewed his commission and
purpose to take possession of those lands to the behalf of the crown of
England, and the advancement of the Christian religion in those paganish
regions, requiring but their lawful aid for repairing of his fleet, and
supply of some necessaries, so far as conveniently might be afforded
him, both out of that and other harbours adjoining. In lieu whereof he
made offer to gratify them with any favour and privilege, which upon
their better advice they should demand, the like being not to be
obtained hereafter for greater price. So craving expedition of his
demand, minding to proceed further south without long detention in those
parts, he dismissed them, after promise given of their best endeavour
to satisfy speedily his so reasonable request. The merchants with their
masters departed, they caused forthwith to be discharged all the great
ordnance of their fleet in token of our welcome.
It was further determined that every ship of our fleet should deliver
unto the merchants and masters of that harbour a note of all their
wants: which done, the ships, as well English as strangers, were
taxed at an easy rate to make supply. And besides, commissioners were
appointed, part of our own company and part of theirs, to go into other
harbours adjoining (for our English merchants command all there) to levy
our provision: whereunto the Portugals, above other nations, did most
willingly and liberally contribute. In so much as we were presented,
above our allowance, with wines, marmalades, most fine rusk or biscuit,
sweet oils, and sundry delicacies. Also we wanted not of fresh salmons,
trouts, lobsters, and other fresh fish brought daily unto us. Moreover
as the manner is in their fishing, every week to choose their Admiral
anew, or rather they succeed in orderly course, and have weekly their
Admiral's feast solemnized: even so the General, captains, and masters
of our fleet were continually invited and feasted. To grow short in our
abundance at home the entertainment had been delightful; but after our
wants and tedious passage through the ocean, it seemed more acceptable
and of greater contentation, by how much the same was unexpected in that
desolate corner of the world; where, at other times of the year, wild
beasts and birds have only the fruition of all those countries, which
now seemed a place very populous and much frequented.
The next morning being Sunday, and the fourth of August, the General and
his company were brought on land by English merchants, who shewed unto
us their accustomed walks unto a place they call the Garden. But nothing
appeared more than nature itself without art: who confusedly hath
brought forth roses abundantly, wild, but odoriferous, and to sense very
comfortable. Also the like plenty of raspberries, which do grow in every
place.
Monday following, the General had his tent set up; who, being
accompanied with his own followers, summoned the merchants and masters,
both English and strangers, to be present at his taking possession of
those countries. Before whom openly was read, and interpreted unto the
strangers, his commission: by virtue whereof he took possession in
the same harbour of St. John, and 200 leagues every way, invested the
Queen's Majesty with the title and dignity thereof, had delivered unto
him, after the custom of England, a rod, and a turf of the same soil,
entering possession also for him, his heirs and assigns for ever; and
signified unto all men, that from that time forward, they should take
the same land as a territory appertaining to the Queen of England, and
himself authorised under her Majesty to possess and enjoy it, and
to ordain laws for the government thereof, agreeable, so near as
conveniently might be, unto the laws of England, under which all people
coming thither hereafter, either to inhabit, or by way of traffic,
should be subjected and governed. And especially at the same time for
a beginning, he proposed and delivered three laws to be in force
immediately. That is to say the first for religion, which in public
exercise should be according to the Church of England. The second, for
maintenance of her Majesty's right and possession of those territories,
against which if any thing were attempted prejudicial, the party or
parties offending should be adjudged and executed as in case of high
treason, according to the laws of England. The third, if any person
should utter words sounding to the dishonour of her Majesty, he should
lose his ears, and have his ship and goods confiscate.
These contents published, obedience was promised by general voice and
consent of the multitude, as well of Englishmen as strangers, praying
for continuance of this possession and government begun; after this, the
assembly was dismissed. And afterwards were erected not far from that
place the arms of England engraven in lead, and infixed upon a pillar of
wood. Yet further and actually to establish this possession taken in the
right of her Majesty, and to the behoof of Sir Humfrey Gilbert, knight,
his heirs and assigns for ever, the General granted in fee-farm divers
parcels of land lying by the water-side, both in this harbour of St.
John, and elsewhere, which was to the owners a great commodity, being
thereby assured, by their proper inheritance, of grounds convenient to
dress and to dry their fish; whereof many times before they did fail,
being prevented by them that came first into the harbour. For which
grounds they did covenant to pay a certain rent and service unto Sir
Humfrey Gilbert, his heirs or assigns for ever, and yearly to maintain
possession of the same, by themselves or their assigns.
Now remained only to take in provision granted, according as every ship
was taxed, which did fish upon the coast adjoining. In the meanwhile,
the General appointed men unto their charge: some to repair and trim the
ships, others to attend in gathering together our supply and provisions:
others to search the commodities and singularities of the country, to be
found by sea or land, and to make relation unto the General what either
themselves could know by their own travail and experience, or by good
intelligence of Englishmen or strangers, who had longest frequented the
same coast. Also some observed the elevation of the pole, and drew plots
of the country exactly graded. And by that I could gather by each man's
several relation, I have drawn a brief description of the Newfoundland,
with the commodities by sea or land already made, and such also as are
in possibility and great likelihood to be made. Nevertheless the cards
and plots that were drawn, with the due gradation of the harbours, bays,
and capes, did perish with the Admiral: wherefore in the description
following, I must omit the particulars of such things.
That which we do call the Newfoundland, and the Frenchmen _Baccalaos_,
is an island, or rather, after the opinion of some, it consisteth
of sundry islands and broken lands, situate in the north regions of
America, upon the gulf and entrance of a great river called St. Lawrence
in Canada; into the which, navigation may be made both on the south and
north side of this island. The land lieth south and north, containing in
length between 300 and 400 miles, accounting from Cape Race, which is
in 46 degrees 25 minutes, unto the Grand Bay in 52 degrees, of
septentrional latitude. The land round about hath very many goodly bays
and harbours, safe roads for ships, the like not to be found in any part
of the known world.
The common opinion that is had of intemperature and extreme cold that
should be in this country, as of some part it may be verified, namely
the north, where I grant it is more cold than in countries of Europe,
which are under the same elevation: even so it cannot stand with reason
and nature of the clime, that the south parts should be so intemperate
as the bruit hath gone. For as the same do lie under the climes of
Bretagne, Anjou, Poictou in France, between 46 and 49 degrees, so can
they not so much differ from the temperature of those countries: unless
upon the out-coast lying open unto the ocean and sharp winds, it must
indeed be subject to more cold than further within the land, where the
mountains are interposed as walls and bulwarks, to defend and to resist
the asperity and rigour of the sea and weather. Some hold opinion that
the Newfoundland might be the more subject to cold, by how much it lieth
high and near unto the middle region. I grant that not in Newfoundland
alone, but in Germany, Italy and Afric, even under the equinoctial line,
the mountains are extreme cold, and seldom uncovered of snow, in their
culm and highest tops, which cometh to pass by the same reason that
they are extended towards the middle region: yet in the countries lying
beneath them, it is found quite contrary. Even so, all hills having
their descents, the valleys also and low grounds must be likewise hot
or temperate, as the clime doth give in Newfoundland: though I am of
opinion that the sun's reflection is much cooled, and cannot be so
forcible in Newfoundland, nor generally throughout America, as in Europe
or Afric: by how much the sun in his diurnal course from east to west,
passeth over, for the most part, dry land and sandy countries, before he
arriveth at the west of Europe or Afric, whereby his motion increaseth
heat, with little or no qualification by moist vapours. Whereas, on the
contrary, he passeth from Europe and Afric unto American over the ocean,
from whence he draweth and carrieth with him abundance of moist vapours,
which do qualify and enfeeble greatly the sun's reverberation upon
this country chiefly of Newfoundland, being so much to the northward.
Nevertheless, as I said before, the cold cannot be so intolerable under
the latitude of 46, 47, and 48, especial within land, that it should be
unhabitable, as some do suppose, seeing also there are very many people
more to the north by a great deal. And in these south parts there be
certain beasts, ounces or leopards, and birds in like manner, which
in the summer we have seen, not heard of in countries of extreme and
vehement coldness. Besides, as in the months of June, July, August and
September, the heat is somewhat more than in England at those seasons:
so men remaining upon the south parts near unto Cape Race, until after
holland-tide (All-hallow-tide--November 1), have not found the cold so
extreme, nor much differing from the temperature of England. Those
which have arrived there after November and December have found the snow
exceeding deep, whereat no marvel, considering the ground upon the
coast is rough and uneven, and the snow is driven into the places most
declining, as the like is to be seen with us. The like depth of snow
happily shall not be found within land upon the plainer countries, which
also are defended by the mountains, breaking off the violence of winds
and weather. But admitting extraordinary cold in those south parts,
above that with us here, it cannot be so great as in Swedeland, much
less in Moscovia or Russia: yet are the same countries very populous,
and the rigour of cold is dispensed with by the commodity of stoves,
warm clothing, meats and drinks: all of which need not be wanting in the
Newfoundland, if we had intent there to inhabit.