CAPE ST. ANDREA.
The promontory of Cape St. Andrea at the broadest portion is about five
miles, and from this base to the extreme end is nearly the same
distance. The whole surface is rocky, but the interstices contain a rich
soil, and at one time it was covered with valuable timber. There is no
portion of the island that presents a more deplorable picture of
wholesale destruction of forests, as every tree has been ruthlessly cut
down, and the present surface is a dense mass of shrubs and young
cypress, which if spared for fifteen years will again restore this
extremity of Cyprus to prosperity. I examined the entire promontory, and
ascended the rocky heights, about 500 feet above the sea upon the north
side. It was with extreme difficulty that I could break my way through
the dense underwood, which was about seven or eight feet high, as it was
in many places more than knee-deep in refuse boughs, which had been
lopped and abandoned when the larger trees had been felled. The largest
stumps of these departed stems were not more than from nine to twelve
inches in diameter: these were the dwarf-cypress, which would seldom
attain a greater height than twenty feet at maturity.
Fine caroubs had shared the fate of all others, and many of the old
stumps proved the large size of this valuable tree, which, as both
fruit-producing and shade-giving, should be sacred in the usually
parched island of Cyprus. At an elevation of about 350 feet above the
sea a spring of water issues from the ground and nourishes a small
valley of red soil, which slopes downwards towards the monastery, two
miles distant. The shrubs were vividly green, and formed so dense a
crest that several partridges which I shot remained sticking in the
bushes as they fell. I never saw such myrtles as those which occupied
the ravines, through which it was quite impossible to force a way. The
principal young trees were Pinus maritima, dwarf-cypress, mastic,
caroub, arbutus, myrtle, and wild olive. The name Cupressus horizontalis
has been given to the dwarf-cypress, but in my opinion it is not
descriptive of the tree: a cypress of this species, if uninjured, will
grow perfectly straight in the central stem for a height of twenty feet
without spreading horizontally. It is probable that the misnomer has
been bestowed in ignorance of the fact that an uninjured tree is seldom
met with, and that nearly every cypress has been mutilated for the sake
of the strong tough leader, which, with one branch attached, will form
the one-fluked anchor required for the roofs of native dwellings already
described. In the absence of its leader the tree extends laterally, and
becomes a Cupressus horizontalis. The wood of this species is extremely
dense and hard, and when cut it emits a resinous and aromatic scent; it
is of an oily nature, and extremely inflammable. The grain is so close
that, when dry, it somewhat resembles lignum vitae (though of lighter
colour), and would form a valuable material for the turner. There are
two varieties of cypress in this island; the second has been erroneously
called a "cedar" by some travellers, and by others "juniper." This tree
is generally met with, at altitudes varying from three to six thousand
feet, upon the Troodos range; it seldom exceeds a height of thirty feet,
but attains a girth of six or even seven. The wood is by no means hard,
and possesses a powerful fragrance, closely resembling that of cedar (or
of cedar and sandal-wood combined), which may have given rise to the
error named. It splits with facility, and the peculiar grain and
brownish-red colour, combined with the aroma, would render it valuable
for the cabinet-maker in constructing the insides of drawers, as insects
are believed to dislike the smell. The foliage of this species exactly
resembles that of the Cupressus horizontalis. The cedar may possibly
have existed at a former period and have been destroyed, but I should be
inclined to doubt the theory, as it would surely have been succeeded by
a younger growth from the cones, that must have rooted in the ground
like all those conifers which still would flourish were they spared by
the Cypriote's axe. The native name for the cypress is Kypreses, which
closely resembles the name of the island according to their
pronunciation Kypris. The chittim-wood of Scripture, which was so much
esteemed, may have been the highly aromatic cypress to which I have
alluded.
After a ramble of many hours down to the monastery upon the rocky shore,
along the point, and then returning through the woods over the highest
portions of the promontory, I reached our camp, which commanded a view
of the entire southern coast with its innumerable rocky coves far beyond
telescopic distance. From this elevation I could distinguish with my
glass the wreck of the stranded steamer in the bay at Volokalida. We
were camped on the verge of the height that we had ascended by the
precipitous path from the lower valley. As the country was a mass of dry
fire-wood we collected a large quantity, and piled two heaps, one for
the camel-owners and the servants, and another before the door of our
own tent to make a cheerful blaze at night, which is a luxury of the
bivouac seldom to be enjoyed in other portions of this island. While we
were thus engaged an arrival took place, and several people suddenly
appeared upon the summit of the pass within a few yards of our tent. An
old woman formed one of the party, and a handsome but rather
dirty-looking priest led the way on a remarkably powerful mule. Upon
seeing us he very courteously dismounted, and I at once invited him to
the tent. It appeared that this was the actual head of the monastery and
the lord of all the promontory who was thus unexpectedly introduced.
Cigarettes, coffee, and a little good cognac quickly cheered the good
and dusty priest (who had travelled that day from some place beyond
Rizo-Carpas), and we established a mutual confidence that induced him to
give me all the information of his neighbourhood.
I had observed hundreds of cattle, goats, sheep, and many horses,
donkeys, &c., wandering about the shrub-covered surface during my walk,
and I was now informed that all these animals were the property of the
monastery. These tame creatures are the objects described in some books
upon Cyprus as "the wild oxen and horses of the Carpas district, the
descendants of original domestic animals"! The monastery of Cape St.
Andrea forms an exception to all others in being perfectly independent,
and beyond all control of bishops. This wild country, far from all
roads, and forming the storm-washed extreme limit of the island, was
considerately out of the way of news, and the monk was absolutely
ignorant of everything that was taking place in the great outer world.
He had heard that such mischievous things as newspapers existed, but he
had never seen one, neither had that ubiquitous animal the
newspaper-correspondent ever been met with in the evergreen jungles of
Cape St. Andrea. His monastery was his world, and the poor inhabitants
who occupied the few miserable huts within sight of his church were his
vassals. Although the bell of the monastery tolled and tinkled at the
required hours, he informed me that "nobody ever attended the service,
as the people were always engaged in looking after their animals."
During the conversation a sudden idea appeared to have flashed upon him,
and starting from his seat, he went quickly to his mule, and making a
dive into the large and well-filled saddle-bags, he extracted an
enormous wine-bottle that contained about a gallon; this he triumphantly
brought to us and insisted upon our acceptance. It was in vain that we
declined the offering; the priest was obdurate, and he placed the bottle
against the entrance of the tent, which, if any one should have
unexpectedly arrived, would have presented a most convivial appearance.
Upon questioning the good monk respecting the destruction of forests
upon his domain, he informed me that "during the Turkish administration
he had been annually pillaged by hundreds of vessels which arrived from
the neighbouring coasts of Asia Minor and of Egypt for the express
purpose of cutting timber to be sold by weight as fire-wood at their
various ports. He had protested in vain, there were no police, nor any
means of resistance at Cape St. Andrea, therefore the numerous crews had
defied him; and small presents from the owners of the vessels to the
Pacha at headquarters were sufficient to ensure immunity." I asked him
"why they wasted so much excellent fire-wood, and left the boughs to
hamper the surface?" He replied, "that as the wood was sold by weight,
the dealers preferred to cut the thick stems, as they packed closely on
board the vessels, and, being green, they weighed heavy; therefore they
rejected the smaller wood and left it to rot upon the ground." He
declared "that on several occasions the crews had quarrelled, and that
from pure spite they had set fire to the thick mass of dried boughs and
lighter wood which had spread over the surface, and destroyed immense
numbers of young trees." I had observed that large tracts had been burnt
during the preceding year. He was delighted at the English occupation,
as his property would now be protected, and in a few years the trees
would attain a considerable size.
Having passed an interesting afternoon with the new ecclesiastical
acquaintance, and tasted, immediately after his departure, the contents
of his enormous bottle (which was as instantly presented, as a "great
treat," to the servants), we lighted our big bonfires, and enjoyed the
blaze like children, although the showers of red sparks threatened the
destruction of the tent in the absence of Captain Shaw and the London
Fire Brigade. After this temporary excitement in this
utter-lack-of-incident-and-everyday-monotonous-island, the fires
gradually subsided, and we all went to sleep. There is no necessity in
Cyprus for sentries or night-watchers, the people are painfully good,
and you are a great deal too secure when travelling. As to "revolvers!"
I felt inclined to bury my pistols upon my first arrival, and to
inscribe "Rest in peace" upon the tombstone. It would be just as absurd
to attend church in London with revolvers in your belt as to appear with
such a weapon in any part of Cyprus. Mine were carefully concealed in
some mysterious corner of the gipsy-van; where they now lie hidden.
We had been two days at Cape St. Andrea, and it was necessary to
right-about-face, as we could go no farther. The monk proposed to guide
us to Rizo-Carpas, the capital of the Carpas district; therefore on 14th
March we started.
This ride of fourteen miles was the most interesting we had made since
our arrival in the island. After returning upon our old route for about
nine miles, we struck off to the right (north) and ascended a steep
gorge between precipitous wooded heights, where the light green foliage
and the exceedingly bright red stems of numerous arbutus contrasted with
the dense masses of dark greens which entirely clothed the surface. Upon
arrival, about 600 feet above the sea we obtained a splendid view, as a
table-topped hill of nearly equal height, with the usual steep
cliff-like sides all covered with verdure, stood prominently in the
foreground, and the deep valleys upon either side, abounding in rich
caroub-trees and olives, led directly to the sea, about six miles
distant and far below. We now crossed the watershed, and the view
increased in beauty as it embraced a complete panorama, with the sea
upon three sides, to the north, south, and east, with the mountains of
Asia Minor in the far distance.
We arrived at Rizo-Carpas, which is situated in a gently-sloping vale
about 450 feet above the sea-level, but surrounded upon all sides by
superior heights, from which the coast of Caramania is distinctly
visible during clear weather. The valley and slopes are highly
cultivated with cereals, and plantations of mulberry-trees for the
support of silkworms; numerous caroub-trees throughout the district give
an agreeable and prosperous appearance. Although there is no actual
town, native dwellings are dotted over the face of the country for some
miles, ornamented by three churches, which present an air of
civilisation and prosperity. The inhabitants were, as usual, very
polite, and as Lady Baker and myself were sitting upon a rug beneath a
tree which we had selected for the evening's halt, and waiting for the
arrival of our camels, a crowd of women and children arrived with the
ugliest and most witch-like old hag that I have ever seen. This old
creature had brought fire and dried olive-leaves in a broken pot, with
which she immediately fumigated us by marching round several times, and
so manipulating her pot as to produce the largest volume of smoke. This
custom, which is so general throughout Cyprus, is supposed to avert the
evil-eye; but I imagine that it originated during a period when the
plague or some other fatal epidemic was prevalent in the island, and
fumigation was supposed to act as a preventative.
There is no medicinal property in the olive-leaf, but as the tree is
practically undying, I attribute the use of the leaves as incense to be
symbolically connected with the blessing of a long life expressed to a
welcomed guest. It is one of those vestiges of tree-worship which may be
traced in almost every country, both savage and civilised, and may be
seen exhibited in Egypt, where the almost everlasting species of aloe is
suspended above the doorway of a house as a talisman or safeguard to the
family within: the idea thus expressed, "As the plant never dies, may
your family last for ever." We got rid of the old hag and her smoky
offering, and she became lost in the crowd which thronged around us;
this was composed of the ugliest, dirtiest, shortest, and most repulsive
lot of females that I ever saw: it was painful to look at them.
There was a general complaint that the silkworms had deteriorated, and
that the mulberry-trees had suffered from a disease which had killed
great numbers. It appeared to me that the decay of the trees was a
sufficient reason for the inferiority of the silkworms. This was a
serious loss to the inhabitants, as Rizo-Carpas was celebrated both for
the quality and quantity of its silk-production.
From the watershed a few hundred yards behind our camp we had a good
view of the northern coast below, which extended in a series of rocky
bays and prominent points to the west, while the entire country from the
shore to the rising ground formed a rich picture of caroub-trees and
plots of cultivation. The hills upon which we stood, about 450 feet
above the sea, were the continuations of the long Carpas range, where
the force of the upheaval had become expended towards the east. As we
looked westward the line of hills gradually heightened, until the
well-known points of the compact limestone were clearly distinguished
among the rugged outlines of the greater altitudes.
There was nothing of interest to induce a longer stay in Rizo-Carpas,
therefore we started on the following morning upon our return journey,
and after a lovely march of twenty miles, partly along an elevated
plateau which commanded a view of both seas north and south, and then
descending some 700 or 800 feet by a steep and interesting pass, we
arrived at Lithrankomi, after passing through Gallibornu.
To my astonishment the oxen and their drivers, instead of awaiting me at
Lithrankomi, were still at the latter village, and hearing that we had
passed through, they came on to join us, but only arrived some hours
later, at nightfall. I discharged my camels that evening, as the carts
would begin their new contract on the following morning.
I rose early on the next day, as we had a long march of twenty-two miles
before us to Trichomo; but as the oxen had been resting for many days,
and I had been paying highly for their food while they had been doing
nothing, I knew they must be in first-rate condition, and in spite of
bad roads they would accomplish the distance. There was always a
difficulty in inducing the carters to start early, but this morning
there was a greater delay than usual, and I myself went to superintend
the loading of the carts. I could hardly believe my eyes! In Georgi's
cart the oxen had been yoked. There was a black creature about half a
foot shorter than its fellow, and composed of skin and bones. The horns
of this animal were antiquities: a drawn appearance about the head and
face, and deeply sunken eyes, denoted extreme age. The fellow ox I
recognised after some time as our old friend in reduced circumstances;
it had been going through a course of wild artichokes and prickly
thistles since I had seen it last, which had brought it into racing
condition by the loss of at least a hundredweight of flesh; the poor
beast looked starved. Georgi had accordingly saved the whole of the
allowance I had paid for food of the best quality, which he had pocketed
while his animal was turned out to graze. "Where are my oxen?" I
inquired of the conscious Georgi; who wisely remained silent. I now
turned to Theodori's team, and I at once perceived that he also had
exchanged one of the superb oxen which I had hired, and upon which I had
depended for drawing the gipsy-van; but the new purchase was a very
beautiful animal, although inferior in height to its companion, which
had much fallen off in condition, having been fed upon the same
unnutritious food. I had been regularly done, as the animals for which I
had paid highly had not only been neglected, but had been exchanged.
I very quickly explained to the proprietors that they had no right
whatever to exchange the oxen which I had engaged, and for which I was
paying in my absence, therefore I should refuse to accept them, as the
contract was broken; and I immediately ordered the camels to be loaded
with the contents of the carts. Fortunately the discharged animals were
grazing within a few yards of our camp.
My servants now explained that Georgi the thick-headed had been done by
his dear friend and companion Theodori, "the man of ability," who had
accompanied me into the Carpas with the sole intention of
cattle-dealing. It appeared that after my departure from Gallibornu,
Theodori had suggested to his friend that a saving might be effected in
the keep of four animals by reducing them to two, and he advised that
they should at once sell each one ox, and arrange to purchase new
animals by the time that I should return; they would by this method
pocket half the sum which I had agreed to pay daily for four oxen during
my absence at Cape St. Andrea. They subsequently came to the conclusion
that their remaining oxen should live upon their wits and thistles,
instead of causing an expense in the purchase of cotton-seed, lentils,
and tibbin (broken barley-straw). Theodori informed Georgi that he knew
of two beautiful animals that might be obtained by the exchange of two
of their oxen with a small sum of money in addition, and he would
arrange the matter if Georgi would part with the dark cream-coloured ox
with black points (his best). Of course the innocent-minded,
broad-shouldered, herculean Georgi knew that his friend would protect
his interests, and he left the matter in his hands. The unmitigated
rascal Theodori knew that the beautiful fat red ox that he wished to
purchase was some years younger than the old well-trained oxen which
formed his pair, and therefore it would be more valuable; he accordingly
agreed to give one of his oxen and one of Georgi's FOR A PAIR from the
proprietor of the fat red animal, who consented to the exchange,
receiving the two fine animals which I had hired and, giving the
valuable young red ox together with the miserable old creature that I
had seen that morning in the yoke. This worn-out old skeleton was to be
Georgi's share of the bargain! I told Georgi that my dogs would not eat
the animal if it should die, as it was too thin. My servants burst out
laughing when Christo the cook translated the account of the
transaction. The shameless scoundrel Theodori, who was present, SMILED
at the relation of his shrewdness; and the big Georgi burst out crying
like a child at the loss of his fine ox, the duplicity of his friend,
and the want of sympathy of the bystanders, who made a joke of his
misfortune. I was very sorry for poor Georgi, as he was really an
excellent fellow; he had been only foolish in trusting to the honour of
his friend, like some good people who apply for assistance to Lord
Penzance; however, there was no help for it, and he departed crying
bitterly.
My servants were fond of the man, and their hearts began to soften after
they had enjoyed the first hearty laugh at Georgi's expense, and
Christo, who was always the factotum, shortly came with a suggestion,
that, "If I would write an order for the immediate return of Georgi's
bullock, on the plea that as I had hired the animal no one had a right
to exchange it until the expiration of my contract," there would be no
difficulty, as "the purchaser would be afraid to retain the animal upon
seeing Georgi armed with a written paper." "But," I said, "what is the
use of my writing in English, which no one can understand?" Christo
assured me that it would have a better effect if nobody could read the
contents, as Georgi could then say anything he pleased. I wrote an order
for the return of the ox as belonging temporarily to me by contract, and
Georgi having wiped his eyes, immediately set off on foot towards
Gallibornu, full of confidence and hope.
Theodori declared that it would be impossible for his oxen to reach
Trichomo in one day; I therefore loaded the camels, and advised him to
await Georgi's return; should they re-appear at Kuklia, where the vans
were lying, I would re-engage them as far as Lefkosia, and in the
meantime I would pay them for the daily keep of their animals, who were
to be well fed, and to discontinue the course of wild artichokes and
thistles.
We took a different route upon leaving Lithrankomi, by keeping upon the
high plateau instead of the lower valleys through which we had arrived
on our way from Volokalida. We accordingly left this village some miles
to the south, but as we were passing through a broad cultivated plain, a
portion of which had recently been ploughed, we observed a crowd of
women and girls who were engaged with baskets in collecting wild
artichokes, which the plough had dislodged. As we approached a sudden
rush was made in our direction, the baskets were placed upon the ground,
and a race took place over the heavy soil to see who would be the first
to greet us. We discovered that these were our friends of Volokalida,
who had walked across the hills in a large party to collect wild
vegetables; they seemed delighted to see us, and insisted upon shaking
hands, which, as they had been grubbing in the freshly-turned ground,
was rather a mouldy operation. We shook hands with about thirty members
of this primitive agricultural society, and were glad to waive an adieu
before the arrival of the older women in the rear, who with their heavy
nailed boots were running towards us, plunging about in the deep ground
in clumsy attempts at juvenile activity. A few of the young women were
very pretty, but, as usual in Cyprus, their figures were ungainly, and
their movements, hampered by baggy trousers and enormous high boots,
were most ungraceful.
On arrival at Trichomo we pitched our tent at some distance from the
dwelling in which we had fed some thousand fleas upon our former visit;
and on the following morning I determined to go straight Famagousta,
about twelve miles distant.
The route from Trichomo is for the most part along the seashore, but
occasionally cutting off the bends by a direct line. The plain is a dead
level, as it has been entirely deposited by the floods of the Pedias
river. We rode tolerably fast, the sun being hot and the country most
uninteresting; we had left the shrub-covered surface of the Carpas with
its romantic cliffs and deep valleys rich in verdure, and once more we
were upon the hateful treeless plain of Messaria. During our sojourn in
the Carpas district the rainfall by our gauge had been 1.28 inches, but
in this unattractive region there had only been one or two faint
showers, hardly sufficient to lay the dust. The crops about five inches
above the ground were almost dead, and the young wheat and barley were
completely withered.
About four or five miles from Famagousta we arrived at the ruins of
ancient Salamis. The stringent prohibition of the British authorities
against a search for antiquities in Cyprus had destroyed the interest
which would otherwise have been taken by travellers in such
explorations. As I have before remarked, there are no remains to attract
attention upon the surface, but all ancient works are buried far
beneath, therefore in the absence of permission to excavate, the
practical study of the past is impossible, and it is a sealed book.
Fortunately General di Cesnola has published his most interesting
volume, combining historical sketches of ancient times with a minute
description of the enormous collection of antiquities which rewarded his
labours during ten years' research; so that if our government will
neither explore nor permit others to investigate, we have at least an
invaluable fund of information collected by those whose consular
position during the Turkish rule enabled them to make additions to our
historical knowledge. Mr. Hamilton Lang has also published his
experiences of a long residence in the island, during which his
successful excavations brought to light valuable relics of the past
which explain more forcibly than the leaves of a book the manners,
customs, and incidents among the various races which have made up
Cyprian history. General di Cesnola, after quoting the legend which
connects the origin of Salamis with the arrival of a colony of Greeks
under Teucer (the son of Telamon, king of the island of Salamis) from
the Trojan expedition, continues, "Of the history of Salamis almost
nothing is known till we come to the time of the Persian wars; but from
that time down to the reign of the Ptolemies it was by far the most
conspicuous and flourishing of the towns of Cyprus." "Onesius seized the
government of Salamis from his brother, Gorgus, and set up an obstinate
resistance to the Persian oppression under which the island was
labouring, about 500 B.C. In the end he was defeated by a Persian army
and fell in battle, and it was about this time, if not in consequence of
this defeat, that the dynasty of Teucer was, for a period, removed from
the government of Salamis. As to the length of this period there is
great obscurity. It seems, however, to be certain that with the help of
the Persians a Tyrian named Abdemon had seized the throne, and not only
paid tribute to Persia, but endeavoured to extend the Persian power over
the rest of the island. To Salamis itself he invited Phoenician
immigrants, and introduced Asiatic tastes and habits." Following upon
this usurpation came the revolt and the restoration of the Teucer
dynasty, under Evagoras, B.C. 374, and eventually upon the partition of
the empire of Alexander the Great it fell to the lot of Antigonus, after
the severe contests between Demetrius and Menelaus.
Like all ancient sea-ports of importance, Salamis was the object of
continual attacks, and by degrees its prosperity declined. In addition
to the damage and loss by sieges, it was seriously affected by an
earthquake, and a portion disappeared beneath the sea. The sand has
submerged a large area of the ruins which face the sea, but General di
Cesnola was able to trace the ancient wall for a distance of 6850 feet.
It is quite possible that the earthquake may have altered the conditions
of the harbour, which in former days was of considerable importance. It
has now entirely changed, and the bay near the shore is extremely
shallow, although good anchorage exists in the roadstead in ten to
sixteen fathoms.
The high masonry piers which had supported the arches of the ancient
aqueduct from Kythrea looked like spectres of past greatness among the
silent ruins, made doubly desolate by the miserable aspect of the
withered plain around them. A short distance from these is the church of
St. Barnabas, raised upon the site where it is believed that the body of
the Saint was discovered, together with the Gospel of St. Matthew. How
the Saint and the Gospel had been preserved in the damp soil of that
neighbourhood must be left to the imagination.
Passing through the ruins of the old town with the line of the wall
distinctly visible upon the sea front, we shortly arrived at the spot
where the river Pedias should have an exit to the sea. No sign of a
river-bed existed, but a long series of swamps, composed chiefly of
bare mud, would during wet weather have made a considerable detour
necessary; they were now dry, with the exception of two or three holes
full of muddy water, which were unconnected with any perceptible
channel. A long stone causeway proved that occasionally the hardened mud
upon which we rode would become a lake, but from the numerous tracks of
animals the earth was preferred to the uneven and slippery pavement of
the artificial road. The enormous quantity of mud brought down by the
Pedias during its fitful inundations had completely obliterated all
signs of an ordinary river-bed, and the deposit had produced a surface
that was scored in numerous places by the rush of water, without in any
way suggesting that we were in the neighbourhood of the largest river in
Cyprus. The width of this muddy swamp was about two miles, and
terminated by a shallow lake upon our left. We were now within a mile
and a quarter of Famagousta, and the ground began to rise. It struck me
that an eminence upon our right was superior to the height of the city
walls, and I rode up to examine the position. There was no doubt that it
commanded the lower portion of the fortress, and that a direct shell-
fire could be plunged into the rear of the guns which protect the
entrance of the harbour. In the event of modifications being introduced
when restoring the defensive works of Famagousta, it would be necessary
to erect a powerful detached fort upon this position, which would be an
immense addition to the defences of the city, as it would enfilade the
approaches upon two sides.
The walls of Famagousta are most imposing; they are constructed of
carefully-squared stone joined with cement of such extreme hardness that
the weather has had no destructive effect. The perimeter of the fortress
is about 4000 yards; the shape is nearly a parallelogram. The fosse
varies in depth and width, but the minimum of the former is twenty-five
feet, and of the width eighty feet, but in some places it exceeds one
hundred and forty. This formidable ditch is cut out of the solid rock,
which is the usual calcareous sedimentary limestone, and the stone thus
obtained has been used in the construction of the walls. The rock
foundation would render all mining operations extremely difficult. The
fire from the ramparts is increased by cavaliers of great size and
strength, capable of mounting numerous heavy guns at a superior
altitude. The only entrance from the land side is at the south-west
corner; this is exceedingly striking, as the fosse is about 140 feet
wide, the scarp and counter-scarp almost perpendicular, being cut from
the original rock.
A narrow stone bridge upon arches spans this peculiar ditch, the
communication depending upon a double drawbridge and portcullis.
Immediately facing the entrance outside the fortress is an old Turkish
churchyard, through and above which the closed masonry aqueduct is
conducted into the town. Following the course of the aqueduct along a
straight line of sandy heights which somewhat resemble a massive railway
embankment, we arrived at a mosque in which is the venerated tomb of the
Turkish soldier who first planted the flag upon the walls of Famagousta
when captured, in 1571, from the Venetians. This tomb is in a small
chamber within the building and is covered with green silk, embroidered;
but as the city was never taken by assault, and capitulated upon
honourable terms after a protracted defence, the fact of establishing
the Turkish flag upon the walls after their evacuation by the garrison
would hardly have entitled the standard-bearer to a Victoria Cross;
however he may have otherwise distinguished himself, which entailed
post-mortem honours, perhaps by skinning alive the gallant Venetian
commandant Bragadino, whose skin, stuffed with straw, was taken in
triumph to Constantinople hanging at the yard-arm of the victorious
general's ship.
Quitting the mosque, we continued along the aqueduct, always upon the
same sandy heights, which gradually increased, until we arrived at a
position about 200 yards from a windmill. This formed a prominent object
at the back of the large village of Varoschia, situated upon the slope
beneath facing the sea, about a quarter of a mile distant. I selected
the highest position for a camp; this was close to the aqueduct and
about 600 yards from the entrance of the fortress. I counted the
embrasures of six guns that could have been brought to bear exactly upon
our tent, but at the same time I remarked that we commanded the lower
portion of the fortress, and could fire into the rear of the batteries
upon the sea-wall within the water-gate at a most destructive range.
This position would require a detached fort with a line of works along
the heights flanked by a small fort at the extremity. Three detached
forts upon as many points which now exist would render Famagousta
impregnable, should the present works be repaired, and improved by some
slight modifications.
I had been through the fortifications upon a former occasion, when I had
the advantage of Captain Inglis the chief commissioner's guidance, but
they are so extensive and of such exceeding interest that many days
might be expended in a study of the details.
Upon entering the fortress by the drawbridge we passed through the
arched and dark way beneath the ramparts, and emerged into a narrow
street, which was swept and free from the usual impurities of a Turkish
town, thus exhibiting proofs of a British occupation. A perfect
labyrinth of narrow lanes, bordered by most inferior dwellings, confused
a stranger, but with the assistance of a guide I reached the residence
of the chief commissioner and the various officers attached to the
establishment. Beyond this all modern buildings ceased, and Famagousta
was presented as it must have appeared after the sack and utter
destruction by the Turks in 1571. It looked as though a town had been
shattered and utterly destroyed by an earth-quake, whose terrible
tremblings had shaken every house to its foundation, and left nothing
but shapeless heaps of squared stones. O Turk! insatiable in
destruction, who breaks down, but never restores, what a picture of
desolation was here! Three centuries had passed away since by treachery
the place was won, and from that hour the neglected harbour had silted
up and ceased to be; the stones of palaces rested where they fell; the
filth of ages sweltered among these blood-sodden ruins; and the proverb
seemed fulfilled, "The grass never grows on the foot-print of the Turk."
I never saw so fearful an example of ruin.
Although the town was in this hideous state, the fortifications were in
very tolerable repair, and had guns been mounted an enemy would quickly
have acknowledged their formidable importance. Time appeared to be
almost harmless in attacks against these vast piles of solid masonry.
The parapets in the angles of the embrasures were twenty-five and
twenty-seven feet in thickness. From these we looked down forty-five and
fifty feet into the ditch beneath. As we walked round the ramparts and
various bastions we remarked the enormous strength of the commanding
cavaliers to which I alluded from the outside appearance of the forts.
There were also vast subterranean works, store-houses, magazines,
cannon-foundries, and all the appliances of a first-class fortified town
and arsenal; but these were of course empty, and with the exception of a
small chamber near the water-gate, which contained a number of rusty
helmets and breastplates, there was no object of interest beyond the
actual plan of the defences.
The water-gate was approached by a winding entrance beneath a powerful
circular bastion from an extremely narrow quay, from which the remains
of a once powerful mote projected about 120 yards into the sea and
commanded the inner harbour. This was now a mere line of loose and
disjointed stones. A citadel that is separated from the main fortress by
a wet ditch which communicates with the sea by an adit beneath the wall
commands the harbour on the east side. This ditch is as usual scarped
from the rock, and otherwise of solid masonry; should the fortress have
been successfully carried by assault on the land side, a vigorous
defence might have been maintained in this independent citadel until
either reinforcements should arrive by sea, or an escape might be
effected to friendly vessels.
It is commonly asserted that Famagousta under the Lusignans and
Venetians "counted its churches by hundreds and its palatial mansions by
thousands." It would certainly have been impossible that they could have
existed within the present area, as a large extent must have been
required for barrack accommodation for the garrison, parade-grounds, &c.
There are ruins of several fine churches with the frescoes still visible
upon the walls. The Cathedral of St. Nicholas is a beautiful object in
the Gothic style. Although dismantled and converted into a mosque by the
Turks, the roof is in good repair, and its magnificent proportions
remain, but they are marred by the stopping of the windows with rough
stones and mortar. The total length of the cathedral is 172 feet 6.5
inches. Length of apse (included in above) 30 feet 9 inches; breadth of
apse 32 feet 3 inches; breadth of cathedral 74 feet 1 inch;
circumference of pillars 15 feet 3 inches, there being 12 pillars in
all.
On the outside walls are the marks of various cannon-shot which appear
to have been successfully resisted by the soft but tough sedimentary
limestone, which is of similar quality to that used in the construction
of the fortress. I observed that the impact of the shot has been
confined to the immediate neighbourhood of the blow, and that the
concussion has not been communicated to the adjoining stone, but has
expended itself in crumbling the opposing surface to the depth in which
it was eventually imbedded. It would be interesting to try some
experiments upon those walls of Famagousta (which may already require
repair or alteration) with modern heavy artillery, as should this stone
exhibit unusual powers of resistance it may become valuable. Nothing
would be easier than to fire a few rounds from a ship's battery to prove
the question.
The courtyard of an ancient Venetian palace now forms the British
parade-ground. This faces the cathedral entrance, and is ornamented by
piles of marble cannon-shot, which are upwards of ten inches in
diameter; these were the Venetian relics of the siege of 1571.
From Cape Greco to Cape Elaea, south to north, is about twenty-five
miles; these points form the bay, nine miles in extreme width. Although
open to the east and south-east, Famagousta is the only real harbour in
Cyprus that can be available for large vessels, and there can be no
doubt that a very moderate outlay would not only restore its ancient
importance, but would make those additions of modern times that are
required for a first-rate and impregnable coaling-station and arsenal.
It was blowing a fresh gale from the south-east when I was standing on
the ramparts facing the sea above the water-gate, and an admirable
example was displayed in the wave-breaking power of the long line of
sunken reefs which form a continuation of those natural breakwaters
above the surface that have formed the harbour. A tremendous surf
exhibited a creamy streak along the margin of comparatively still water
within the reefs for about a mile parallel with the shore, comprising an
area of about 700 yards' width at the extremity of the sunken rocks, and
500 from the existing breakwater exactly opposite the water-gate.
Within this secure haven several native vessels were snugly at anchor,
but ships of war would hardly venture among the varying shallows caused
by centuries of silt; such large vessels generally anchor in seventeen
fathoms about a mile from the shore, but they are completely exposed to
wind from east and south-east. The inner harbour is formed by the
artificial connection of raised heads of projecting reefs by stone
jetties. At right angles with this complete defence of limestone rock is
a wall or jetty from the shore, which for a distance of 170 yards
incloses the basin of perfectly still water within. The entrance to this
snug little port is about forty yards in width, and the depth is most
irregular, varying from dry silt close to the south end of the reefs up
to twelve feet beneath the walls of the fortress. There were many small
coasting-vessels and caiques which trade between the various ports of
Syria and Asia Minor, all having sought shelter from the bad weather
within the port; and the picture presented during the strong gale was
thoroughly illustrative of the natural advantages and the future
requirements of the harbour. The long line of reefs which form the outer
protection would, were they exposed in their whole length, represent an
irregular incline from about twelve feet above the sea level at the
southern end to three fathoms below water at the northern extremity. A
wedge laid with its broad base to the south would represent the
inclination of this long line of useful reef, which can be converted
into a sea-wall by simply filling-in with blocks of concrete to a
sufficient height above the extreme water-mark. The ancient jetty which
connects the small islands that form the northern head of the reef is in
itself an example of the necessity of such an extension throughout the
line. A natural headland terminating in disconnected rocks upon the
north boundary of the reef about half a mile above the fortress is a
secure protection from the sea, but it admits the silt. This has
completely filled in a considerable portion of the original harbour, and
were this sea-communication destroyed by connecting the various reefs
with the main headland, the evil would be at once prevented, and the
inclosed area might be cleansed by dredging. This would not only add to
the accommodation of the inner harbour by a considerable extension, but
it would afford an admirable position for a series of docks, and yards
for the repairing of vessels. I walked through the whole of this
confined mass of rocks, silt, and water only a few inches deep, and was
much impressed with the capabilities of the locality. Such powerful
dredgers as are used in the Suez Canal would clear away the deposit,
with an outlay that could be calculated by the cubic contents, and the
large margin that must generally be allowed in all estimates for harbour
works would, in the case of Famagousta, be superfluous.
There are two enemies to be resisted--the sea, and the silt. The latter
has been and still is brought down by the Pedias river; this has
entirely blocked the ancient harbour of Salamis, and partially destroyed
that of Famagousta. The engineer has to repel these enemies, and he
possesses a great advantage in the fact that Famagousta has already
existed as a most important harbour, therefore he is not experimenting
upon an unknown bottom. The line of reefs affords the engineer's chief
desideratum, "a sound foundation," and the materials for his concrete
blocks are close at hand in the chaotic mass of stone now choking with
ruins the area of the city, in the neighbouring ruins of Salamis, and,
nearer still, in the native rock from which Famagousta has been
quarried. The island of Santorin from whence the pozzolano is supplied
for hydraulic cement, is only three days distant. Few places possess in
so high a degree the natural advantages for becoming a first-class
harbour, and it has been computed that about 300 acres of water can be
converted into a wall-locked basin, with an entrance from the south
that would be secure during all weathers. The Bay of Famagousta is
extremely deep, exceeding 150 fathoms which affords an additional
facility for getting rid of the contents of the lighters, as the mud
from the dredgers could be discharged at sea without danger of its
return.
All competent persons who have examined the present harbour are
unanimous in the opinion that "a very moderate outlay would secure a
first-class port, which would, as an impregnable coaling-depot and
arsenal, complete the links of the chain of fortresses which are the
guardians of the Mediterranean. In a war with any maritime Power the
first necessity is an uninterrupted line of fortified coaling-stations,
at intervals not exceeding five days' steaming at ten knots. A naval war
will depend entirely upon the supply of coal, which will in all
probability be declared "contraband of war." In the absence of a
dependable chain of stations THROUGHOUT THE WORLD, the action of the
most powerful cruisers will be extremely limited, as they will be
rendered helpless when their supply is reduced to the minimum sufficient
to carry them to a friendly port.
Where oceans must be traversed, the difficulty will be increased, as the
coal-capacity of the vessel will only command a given mileage; she will
therefore be in her weakest condition after a long voyage, and as her
fighting power must depend upon her steam, precisely as the strength of
man depends upon his food, she must be absolutely certain of obtaining a
supply of coal in every sea where her presence is required.
Should the most powerful vessel afloat, after a long cruise during which
she has encountered head-winds and weather that had caused delay and a
great consumption of fuel, be reduced to only a few hours' steaming, she
would be at the mercy of an inferior antagonist whose bunkers might be
well filled. The commerce and the colonies of Great Britain demand the
presence of our vessels in every sea; the greater part of that enormous
carrying-power is now represented by steamers which have replaced the
sailing-vessels of old: therefore in the event of war we must possess
coaling-depots which in case of necessity could meet the demands of any
of our ships, whether naval or commercial.
The attention of the usually far-seeing public is seldom directed to
this important question of coaling-stations, but an examination of a
recently constructed globe will discover the apparently insignificant
red dots which represent the dominant power of England in every portion
of the world. The smallest island may become the most impregnable and
important coaling-depot. It is the fashion for some modern reformers
(happily few) to suggest a curtailment of the British Empire, on the
principle that "by pruning we should improve the strength of the
national tree." If there are rotten boughs, or exhausting and useless
shoots, the analogy might be practical; but if we examine carefully a
map of the world it would puzzle the Royal Geographical Society to
determine the point that we should abandon. An example of temporary
insanity was displayed in the evacuation of Corfu; which would under our
present foreign policy have become invaluable as a powerfully fortified
coaling-station, commanding the entrance of the Adriatic and the
neighbouring seas. It is this unfortunate precedent which is paralysing
all the natural elasticity of commercial enterprise in Cyprus, as the
inhabitants and English alike feel their insecurity, and hesitate before
the uncertain future, which may depend upon a party vote in the distant
House of Commons.
There can be no doubt that Cyprus or Crete was requisite to England as
the missing link in the chain of our communications with Egypt. As a
strategical point, Cyprus must be represented by Famagousta, without
which it would be useless for the ostensible purpose of its occupation.
Many persons of great practical experience would have preferred Crete,
as already possessing a safe harbour in Suda Bay, with a climate
superior to that of Cyprus, while according to our assumed defensive
alliance with Turkey in the event of a renewed attack by Russia, we
should have acquired the advantage of Cyprus whenever required, without
the expense or responsibility, and we should in addition have
established a station on the coast of Asia Minor at the secure harbour
afforded by the Gulf of Ayas at Alexandretta.
These geographical questions are a matter of opinion, but now that we
actually have occupied Cyprus it is absolutely necessary to do
something. Without Famagousta, the island would be worthless as a naval
station; with it, as a first-class harbour and arsenal, we should
dominate the eastern portion of the Mediterranean, entirely command the
approach to Egypt, and keep open our communications with the Suez Canal
and the consequent route to India. In the event of the Euphrates valley
line of railway becoming an accomplished fact, Cyprus will occupy the
most commanding position. But, all these advantages will be neutralised
unless Famagousta shall represent the power of England like Malta and
Gibraltar. The more minutely that we scrutinise the question of a
Cyprian occupation, the more prominent becomes the importance of
Famagousta; with it, Cyprus is the key of a great position; without it,
the affair is a dead-lock.
There is unfortunately a serious drawback in the extreme unhealthiness
of this otherwise invaluable situation, Famagousta, which would at
present render it unfit for a military station. There are several
causes, all of which must be removed, before the necessary sanitary
change can be accomplished. The vast heaps of stones, all of which are
of an extremely porous nature, have absorbed the accumulated filth of
ages, and the large area now occupied by these ruins must be a fertile
source of noxious exhalations. During the rainy season the surface
water, carrying with it every impurity, furnishes a fresh supply of
poison to be stored beneath these health-destroying masses, which cannot
possibly be cleansed otherwise than by their complete obliteration. It
may be readily understood that the high ramparts of the walls to a
certain extent prevent a due circulation of air, which increases the
danger of miasma from the ruin-covered and reeking area of the old
Venetian city. Should the harbour works be commenced, all this now
useless and dangerous material will be available for constructing the
blocks of concrete required for the sea-wall, and the surface of the
town will be entirely freed from the present nuisance without additional
expense. The few modern buildings should be compulsorily purchased by
the Government, and entirely swept away, so that the area inclosed by
the fortification walls should represent a perfectly clean succession of
levels in the form of broad terraces, which would drain uniformly
towards the sea. Upon these purified and well-drained plateaux the new
town could be erected, upon a special plan suitable to the locality, and
in harmony with the military requirements of a fortified position. The
value of the land thus recovered from the existing ruin would be
considerable, and, if let on building leases, would repay the expense of
levelling, draining, and arranging for occupation. In this manner one of
the prime causes of the present unhealthiness would be removed; by the
same operation, the ditch of the citadel would be pumped dry, and all
communication shut off from the sea, which now produces a stagnant and
offensive pool, breeding only reeds, mosquitoes, and malaria.
We now arrive at the most formidable origin of the Famagousta fever--the
marshes caused by the overflow of the Pedias river. The description that
I have already given of the delta formed by the deposit of mud during
inundations, and the total absence of any exit for the waters by a
natural channel, will convey to the minds of the most inexperienced an
extreme cause of danger. I can see only one practicable method of
surmounting this great difficulty. The Pedias river must be conducted to
the sea through an artificial channel, and it must (like the Rhone) be
confined between raised banks of sufficient height to prevent any chance
of overflow, and of a width arranged to produce a rapid current, that
will scour the bed and carry the mud to deposit far beyond the shore.
This work would be expensive, but, on the other hand, the collateral
advantages would be great. The land, which is now almost valueless,
owing to the uncertainty of inundations, would be rendered fruitful, and
by an arrangement of cattle-wheels the irrigation could always be
ensured, as the water exists within five feet of the present surface. At
this moment, neither drains are made, nor any control of nature is
exercised by the fever-stricken population, who trust entirely to the
uncertain chances of the seasons. We have an example in the original
fens of Lincolnshire, which, by a system of drainage, have been brought
into agricultural value; a series of large and deep open ditches, such
as are seen in every marsh or river-meadow throughout England, would
not only drain the surface of the Famagousta delta, but would supply the
water, to be raised by cattle-lifts and wind-pumps, for the purposes of
irrigation. There is much work for the agricultural engineer, but if
this important enterprise is seriously commenced the future results will
well repay the outlay.
Some persons have attributed the cause of unhealthiness to the existence
of the trenches made by the Turks during the siege in 1571, which are
considered to emit malarious exhalations. I do not think so; all these
low levels, surrounded by high banks which protect the crops from wind,
are most carefully cultivated with beans, cereals, cotton, and garden
produce, and I do not believe that successful gardens are malarious, but
only those localities where water is allowed to become stagnant, in
which case cultivation must be a failure. Many of these rich bottoms
were at one time valuable as "madder" grounds, and Consul White states
that in 1863 good madder-root land at Famagousta was worth 90 pounds per
acre. It may not be generally known that the indelible dye called
"Turkey red" was formerly produced from the madder-root, but that it has
been entirely superseded by the chemical invention known as "alizarine,"
which, by reducing the price in a ruinous degree, has driven the
vegetable substance out of the market, and the madder is no longer
cultivated. This chemical discovery has lowered the rich, deep, sandy
loams of Famagousta and of Morphu to a mere average agricultural value,
and has completely destroyed an important local industry.
The madder-root required three years before it arrived at maturity. From
Consul Riddell's report in 1872, the amount of madder exported reached
330 tons, of which 250 tons were shipped for Great Britain. The same
authority reports in 1873, "The falling-off, however, in the quantity
sent to Great Britain is remarkable, being only 230 cwts. (11.5 tons)."
This disappearance of a special agricultural industry has been an
enormous loss to the proprietors of the madder-lands.
The fruit-orchards and gardens of Famagousta are the finest in the
island. The land is extremely rich, and of a bright chocolate colour,
but the trees are, as usual in Cyprus, planted too close to each other,
which interferes with the necessary light and circulation of air. These
gardens commence just outside the walls, and, running parallel with the
sea below the large village of Varoschia, extend for about two miles
along the shore. Oranges, lemons, pomegranates, apricots, figs, prickly
pears and mulberry-trees, are the chief products, and it was here that
we obtained the largest and best oranges that I had tasted in the
island; generally this fruit is much inferior to the varieties imported
into England. The pomegranates of Cyprus are very celebrated, and are
exported to Egypt, but it is a fruit that is not generally appreciated
by Europeans. There are extensive gardens inland, but they do not convey
the idea of "gardens" as understood by Englishmen, but are merely dense
groves of various fruit-trees, irrigated by a cattle-wheel, and planted
with an utter disregard of all taste or arrangement.
The large village, or town of Varoschia is an important adjunct to
Famagousta, from which it is hardly separated. It was originally founded
by the Venetian Christians, who were expelled from Famagousta after the
Turkish conquest. There is a large Greek Church, extensive bazaars, and
several manufactures of pottery, for which the locality is celebrated.
We saw a vessel loading in the harbour entirely with these--jars,
water-bottles, dishes, &c.--but the earthen-ware is of a coarse
description, and the quality of the clay does not admit of sufficient
porosity for the purpose of cooling water or of filtering, like the
Egyptian ware; at the same time it is not sufficiently impervious for
the retention of wine or oil without a considerable loss by absorption.
Varoschia has been always celebrated for a large production of a high
quality of silk, but the quantity has fallen off, as in all other parts
of the island. There are some good houses in this thriving and busy
little town, and it is said that decent accommodation may be had; but I
preferred the cleanliness and independence of our own tent.
Varoschia is not much healthier than Famagousta, as it suffers from the
same cause, in addition to an enormous accumulation of filth on the
heights at the rear of the town. If this were carefully stored to manure
the numerous gardens, it would be profitably utilised; but it belongs to
nobody in particular, and is a public nuisance. A fine should be
inflicted upon the municipal authorities in the sanitary interests of
the population, and the refuse of the neighbourhood should be
periodically collected into heaps and burned. Captain Inglis and the
various British officials moved their quarters from Famagousta to the
healthy village of Derinia, about three miles distant, during our stay
near Varoschia. The new station is to the south-west of the port, and
completely beyond the influence of the marshes, the elevation being
about 250 feet above the sea. Should this locality become a permanently
healthy settlement, the sanitary difficulty of our position will be
considerably modified, as the troops might be quartered at Derinia in
time of peace, and even during war they would be immediately within
call.
A lake exists about three miles inland from Famagousta, which is between
four and five miles in circumference; the water is fresh, but
exceedingly shallow and impure, the edges covered with high reeds, which
extend for several hundred yards from the shore. This lake swarms with
varieties of water-fowl, which can only be shot by wading and waiting
concealed in the high cover of rushes and tamarisk, as they are
exceedingly wary. Commander Hammond, of H.M.S. Torch, bagged thirty-five
ducks to his own gun upon one occasion, by thus challenging the fever
and remaining hip-deep in the muddy water for some hours. I did not feel
disposed to risk the chances of malaria, as the effluvium from the mud
was sufficiently offensive even when walking round the margin, and I
already felt some warning symptoms of the heavy atmosphere of
Famagousta, which might, if neglected, have terminated in ague. I shot a
fine specimen of the glossy ibis, and I otherwise contented myself with
watching the variety of ducks, coots, teal, and other water-fowl through
my glass, as they enjoyed themselves in flocks upon the surface of the
lake at a great distance.
Having exhausted the sights of Famagousta, we started on the 22nd of
March for Kuklia, twelve miles distant, where we had left our vans in
charge of the headman during our absence in the Carpas country. Upon our
arrival we found them untouched or unharmed, and we were met not only by
the headman himself, but by our two bullock-drivers Georgi and Theodori,
who had come from Lithrankomi. Georgi had recovered from the despair
which had overpowered him when we last parted, and he was almost
triumphant when he related the success of his mission to Gallibornu with
the mysterious paper written in English, that I had given him in order
to terrify the purchaser of his bullock. He had exhibited this
awe-inspiring epistle, which nobody could either read or understand, and
Georgi had taken advantage of his opportunity to threaten the sharp
cattle-dealer with a long list of imaginary punishments that would be
inflicted by English law should he refuse to return the bullock, which
had been hired for a special service by an Englishman. The paper was
closely scrutinised, and being in an unknown character, Georgi felt his
advantage, and expounded the contents so forcibly that he worked upon
the fears of the inhabitants of Gallibornu, who insisted that the Turk
should compromise the affair and return the handsome bullock, receiving
in exchange his own half-starved old animal, in addition to a present
of half a sovereign. Georgi was only too delighted to immediately clench
the bargain. I advised him in future to manage his own cattle-dealing
instead of confiding in his able friend Theodori, and I ordered the oxen
to be put in the yokes at once, and to draw the vans to our old
camping-place beneath the hawthorn-tree. Upon arrival at the spot a
great change had taken place; the hawthorns were a mass of blossom, and
scented the air for a considerable distance; the groves of fig-trees
had broken into leaf; the trefoil had grown to a height of two feet, and
numerous cattle were tethered in the rich field, to feed upon the few
square yards that each owner had purchased at a high price to save his
animals from starvation. A field of broad-beans that we had left in
early blossom twenty-four days before now produced our well-known
vegetable for dinner, and I observed that the native children, with
their usual liking for uncooked food, were eating these indigestible
beans raw!
There had been no rain since our departure, and every crop that was not
irrigated was absolutely destroyed. The aspect of the country was
pitiable; it should have been at this season a waving sea of green
barley and young wheat, but it was a withered desert --with a few
patches of verdure like oases in a thirsty wilderness. This terrible
calamity extended throughout the entire district or plain of Messaria,
and exhibited a sad example of the great necessity of Cyprus--"an
organised system of artificial irrigation."
We remained some days at Kuklia, during which I strengthened the
gipsy-van by lashing the frame-work with raw bull's-hide and securing
the blocks of the springs to the axles with the same material. It is
worthy of note "that a fresh hide should never be used for lashing, but
a skin that has been already dried should be soaked for twenty-four
hours, and then cut into a strip as carefully and as long as the size
will permit. When thus prepared, it should be re-soaked for four or five
hours, and used while wet as a lashing, drawn as tight as possible. The
power of contraction is enormous, and when dry the skin becomes as hard
as wood; but a fresh hide has not the same contractive power, and will
stretch and become loose when subject to a severe strain." It was a
great comfort to return to the luxury of the gipsy-van, which looked the
picture of neatness; the gorgeous Egyptian lantern had ceased to exist
as an object of value, as it had several times been upset and thrown
completely off its hook by the jumpings and bumpings of the vehicle when
forcibly dragged over the steep banks and watercourses. It was now
reduced to an "antique," and looked as though it had been recovered from
the ruins of an ancient temple.
The post was kindly forwarded from Famagousta by the chief commissioner,
and we revelled in newspapers, which during our stay in the Carpas had
been a complete blank. Our cook Christo had also received letters which
disconcerted him. After dinner at about 8.30 P.M. he suddenly appeared
at the tent door with a very large breakfast-cup in his hand. "I beg
your pardon, sir, but I'm sorry to say my mother has just fallen down
and broken her leg!" was his first announcement; and he continued, "she
is an old woman, past fifty, sir, and a broken leg is a very bad thing;
I have come to ask for some brandy, and I've brought a cup."
"Your mother broken her leg, Christo? Why, where is she?" I replied.
"She is at Athens, sir, and I want a drop of brandy, as I have just
received the letter, and I am very anxious about her."
I now discovered that the brandy was not intended for his mother's leg,
but for his own stomach, to comfort his nerves and to allay his filial
anxiety. He had a good dose that quickly restored his usual spirits, as
I heard him relating stories in the servants' tent which created roars
of laughter.
Christo was an excellent, hard-working fellow, who having passed his
life at sea, was exceedingly handy, and combined the usual good
qualities of a sailor with the art of cookery and a certain knowledge
which enabled him to act as interpreter. He was as clever in lashing up
a van with raw hide as in preparing a dinner at the shortest notice, and
his mayonnaise would have raised the envy of many a professor in
England. His English varied like his dishes, and upon certain days there
was a considerable vagueness in his language, while at other times he
expressed himself clearly. Upon one of these foggy intervals I asked him
"Why the people had made so much noise during the night?" and he
replied, that "A little hen-horse had made one child in the stable!" He
intended to explain that a pony had foaled in the stable. When he first
joined us he frequently rambled and confused his genders, and termed all
females "hens," which at times had almost as ludicrous an effect as the
mistakes of my African cook, who invariably called "cocks and hens"--
"bulls and women." I never had so useful a man in travelling, as he
excelled at tent pitching and arranging the luggage on pack-animals, and
took the lead in everything; in addition to which he showed a great
interest in interpreting, which is a rare quality in a dragoman.
We selected a road upon higher ground for our return to Lefkosia, and
thus avoided the watercourses which had caused so much vexation and
delay upon our former journey. The first night's halt was at the long
stone bridge across the Pedias river, about twenty miles from Kuklia,
opposite the village of Kythrea at four miles distance--this was only
constructed eight years ago, and it was already rendered impassable by
the overflow of the torrent, which had carried away a considerable
portion. On the following morning we arrived at the capital, and were
once more hospitably received by Sir Garnet and Lady Wolseley.