1. _The Scottish Gaël; or, Celtic Manners as preserved among the
Highlanders_: Being an Historical and Descriptive Account of the
Inhabitants, Antiquities, and National Peculiarities of Scotland; more
particularly of the Northern or Gaëlic Parts of the Country, where the
singular habits of the Aboriginal Celts are most tenaciously retained.
By James Logan, Fellow of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland.
London: Smith, Elder, & Co., 65 Cornhill. 1831. 2 vols. 8vo. Large
paper in royal 8vo.
This work contains in an appendix a list of fifty-four tartans, which
Logan states were as many as he could procure and authenticate. Along
with the name of each tartan is a table stating the colours and
relative proportions of the stripes in eighths of an inch. This plan
of measurement, it appears, was the joint idea of Logan and Captain
Mackenzie of Gruinard. It is really a modification of that of the old
Highland weavers of winding on a stick the correct number of threads of
each colour in the proper order. One coloured plate (an illustration
of the tartan of the Earl of Inverness) is given, with the object
of explaining the system of measurement and colouring set forth in
the work. Each volume contains a coloured frontispiece representing
Highlanders in tartan dress.
A reprint (omitting the plate of the tartan) was issued in 1876,
edited, with memoir and notes, by the Rev. Alexander Stewart, of
Ballachulish and Ardgour, “Nether Lochaber.” Inverness: Hugh Mackenzie,
Bank Lane. Edinburgh: Maclachlan and Stewart, South Bridge.
2. _Vestiarium Scoticum._ From the Manuscript formerly in the Library
of the Scots College at Douay. With an Introduction and Notes by John
Sobieski Stuart. Edinburgh: William Tait, 107 Princes Street. 1842.
Imperial 4to.
The _Vestiarium_, referred to at some length in the Introduction,
was, if we set aside the single plate issued by Logan in 1831, the
first work published containing illustrations of tartans. According to
Lowndes, whose information on the point was derived from the late Dr.
David Laing, only fifty copies were printed, and it is curious that
none of the great Edinburgh libraries is in possession of a complete
copy. It contains (_a_) a preface giving an account of the three MS.
copies of the work known to the editor; (_b_) a roll of the clans from
the original MS. of 1571, accompanied by the ordinary Parliamentary
rolls of 1587 and 1594, and the one compiled by Lord President Forbes
in 1745; (_c_) an introduction treating very fully of the use of
tartan in early times; (_d_) the text of the MS., wherein are minutely
described (1) twenty-five tartans of the “chieff Hieland clannes;”
(2) eleven tartans of the “lesser famylies or housis, the quhilk be
cum frae ye chieff housis and oryginale clannes;” (3) thirty tartans
belonging to the “low country pairtes and bordovr clannes;” (4) nine
tartans of the “bordovr clannes;” (5) a list of clans and their badges
of distinction.
The illustrations of the book consist of one plate containing
reproductions of styles of dress from early seals and illuminated
manuscripts, and seventy-five coloured plates representing tartans.
The latter are executed by the “machine painting” process introduced
by the Messrs Smith, of Mauchline, for their tartan woodwork, and for
beauty of execution and exactness of detail have not been excelled by
any method of colour printing subsequently invented. The wide use made
of the tartan illustrations in this work by subsequent writers is duly
noted under the respective works.
3. _The Clans of the Scottish Highlands_: Illustrated by appropriate
Figures displaying the Dress, Arms, Armorial Insignia, and Social
Occupations, from Original Sketches by R. R. M’Ian, Esq., with
accompanying Descriptive and Historical Memoranda of Character, Mode
of Life, &c., &c., by James Logan, Esq., F.S.A. Sc., Cor. Mem. Soc.
Ant., Normandy, &c., author of _The Scottish Gaël, Introduction to the
“Sar Obair nam bard Gaëllach,”_ &c. London: Ackermann & Co. 1845-47. 2
vols.
Originally issued in parts, commencing in the year 1843, and
terminating in 1849, in two sizes, imperial quarto and imperial folio.
The quarto edition was reprinted by Willis, Sotheran, & Co. in 1857. It
contains seventy-two coloured plates of figures illustrating various
forms, ancient and modern, of the Highland dress, drawn by M’Ian. Two
coloured frontispieces represent the heraldic shields and badges of the
clans. There is a separate pagination for each of the parts, making the
work of reference troublesome. Logan travelled over a great part of
the Highlands and Islands collecting the interesting details relating
to the clans here presented. Of the illustrations, the greater number
is based on authenticated details of dress, but many are imaginative,
as no records exist covering the period to which they are assigned.
The tartans depicted are partly those in Logan’s _Scottish Gaël_,
while others are unacknowledged reproductions from the designs in the
_Vestiarium Scoticum_.
4. _The Costume of the Clans_, with Observations upon the Literature,
Arts, Manufactures, and Commerce of the Highlands and Western Isles
during the Middle Ages; and on the Influence of the Sixteenth,
Seventeenth, and Eighteenth Centuries upon their present condition.
By John Sobieski Stolberg and Charles Edward Stuart. John Menzies,
Princes Street, Edinburgh; D. Bogue, Fleet Street, London; M. Amoyat,
Paris; Leopold Michelsen, Leipzig; Gottlieb Haase Söhne, Prague. 1845.
Folio. Reprinted 1892, with a Biographical Introduction. Edinburgh:
John Grant.
When projected this magnificent and sumptuous work was intended to
extend to two volumes, of which only the first appeared, the cost of
production having proved excessive, and entailed a heavy loss upon
the authors. It contains thirty-five plates. Of these, six, which are
uncoloured, consist of representations of Highland dress, obtained
principally from sculptured stones. The coloured plates contain
representations of thirty-seven figures, obtained from the following
sources: Paintings, 29; engravings, 5; drawing, 1; illuminated MS., 1;
medal die, 1. The work was also issued uncoloured in two states—viz.,
with India proofs, and with plain prints. Copies of the original
coloured issue are very rare, no copy being preserved in any of the
great Edinburgh libraries. I have compared the colouring of the
reprint, and also the original of the plain prints, with twenty of the
figures depicted in the paintings from which they are taken, scattered
in various family collections throughout Scotland. The remaining nine
paintings I have hitherto been unable to trace. In every instance that
has come under my observation the colouring of the plates turns out to
be not only incorrect, but as a rule hopelessly misleading. What makes
this all the more extraordinary is that the plain outline drawings
representing the original work of the authors are extremely accurate
in rendering the most minute details, except the features, which are
usually very indifferently copied. Of the remaining eight figures noted
above as in colour, seven are represented in tartan, on what authority
as to sett I have been unable to ascertain. The letterpress contains a
treatise on the Highland dress, which, considering the period at which
it was written, and the difficulty of access to the widely scattered
materials of which it is composed, is a perfect marvel of industry and
ability. It has been the productive quarry of all successive writers on
the Highland dress.
5. _Authenticated Tartans of the Clans and Families of Scotland_:
Painted by Machinery, with Map of the Highlands, showing the
Territories of the Clans. Introductory Essay on _The Scottish Gaël_,
by a Member of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland. William and
Andrew Smith, Scotch Snuff-Box Makers by appointment to his late
Majesty, and by command to Her Majesty the Queen. Mauchline, Ayrshire,
Scotland. 4to.
First issued in parts with the title on the wrapper, _Original Tartans
of the Highland Clans and Lowland Families of Scotland_, the preface
being dated 1st March 1850. Between the issue of the prospectus and
its accompanying plates and the completion of the publication of the
work several changes were made in the illustrations. For example, Plate
I. of the Stuart tartan was first represented as in the _Vestiarium_,
but was afterwards changed to the present more familiar design. For
information regarding the tartans the Messrs Smith relied chiefly
on the manufacturers, with whom the work remains the standard of
reference. It contains, however, inaccuracies in identification
and arrangement, some of which are referred to in the letterpress
accompanying the tartans in the present volume. The plates, of which
there are sixty-nine, are executed by the publishers’ process of
“machine painting” to which reference has already been made under the
_Vestiarium_.
A miniature edition (without date, a want the publishers are now unable
to supply) of the plates in the above was issued. The only letterpress
it contains is the title-page, table of contents, and the names of the
tartans.
6. _The Clans of the Highlands of Scotland_: Being an Account of
their Annals, Separately and Collectively, with Delineations of their
Tartans, and Family Arms. Edited by Thomas Smibert, Esq. Edinburgh:
Published by James Hogg. Glasgow: David Robertson. London: R.
Groombridge & Sons. 1850. 8vo.
In this work, which deals entirely with the histories of the clans,
there are included fifty-five coloured lithographic plates of tartans.
No individual account of these is given, but in his notice the author
states: “With respect to the Sets of the Clan-Tartans here given,
the work of Mr Logan has been held, after due consideration, to be
preferable as a general guide. The _Vestiarium Scoticum_ of Mr Stuart
is certainly a publication of value in various respects, having
plainly been prepared with much elaboration and care, and accordingly
it would be unwise to reject its indications wholly, because of the
doubts entertained as to its claims to antiquity and authenticity. The
parties responsible for the present work, however, have had recourse to
the best original sources of information, and trust by that means to
maintain accuracy, without blindly following any previous authority.”
The best comment on these observations is to be found in the fact that
while the bulk of the illustrations are copied from Logan, and many
others are early and genuine examples of tartans never before that time
illustrated, a number were adopted from the _Vestiarium_.
7. _A History of the Highlands and of the Highland Clans_: With an
extensive selection from the hitherto inedited Stuart Papers. By James
Browne, LL.D., Advocate. A new edition, with sixty-six illustrative
engravings and numerous woodcuts. London, Edinburgh, and Dublin: A.
Fullarton & Co. 1850. 4 vols. 8vo.
Contains twenty-two plates of tartans executed in colour lithography,
being reproductions, indifferently executed, of designs first published
in the _Vestiarium Scoticum_. No notes or explanations of any kind
accompany the plates.
8. _Highlanders of Scotland_: Portraits illustrative of the Principal
Clans and Followings, and the Retainers of the Royal Household at
Balmoral, in the Reign of Her Majesty Queen Victoria. By Kenneth
Macleay, Esq., R.S.A. With Copious Notices from Authentic Sources. In
Coloured Lithographs by Vincent Brooks. London: Mr Mitchell, Publisher
to Her Majesty, 33 Old Bond Street, W. Edinburgh: Blackwood & Sons.
1870. 2 vols. imperial folio.
The illustrations consist of coloured lithographic reproductions of
drawings made by command of Her Majesty the Queen. Biographical notes
accompany each plate. The figures are represented in various styles of
the modern Highland dress.
There are also two quarto uncoloured editions of the work—one reduced
from the original lithographs, illustrated with lithographic prints;
the other, photographed from the original drawings, is illustrated by
silver prints.
9. _Clans and Tartans._ Andrew Elliot, 17 Princes Street, Edinburgh.
4to.
Published 28th September 1872. A series of tartans from the work of
Messrs Smith, and executed by their “machine painting” process. No
notes accompany the plates.
10. _A History of the Scottish Highlands, Highland Clans, and Highland
Regiments_: With an Account of the Gaelic Language, Literature, and
Music. By the Rev. Thomas Maclauchlan, LL.D., F.S.A. Scot.; and an
Essay on Highland Scenery by the late Professor John Wilson. Edited by
John S. Keltie, F.S.A. Scot. Illustrated with a series of Portraits,
Views, Maps, &c., engraved on steel, Clan Tartans, and upwards of two
hundred woodcuts, including Armorial Bearings. A. Fullarton & Co.,
Edinburgh and London. 1875. 2 vols. 8vo.
A reissue on a larger scale of Dr. Browne’s work (No. 7). The thirty-one
examples of tartans here given are, unlike those contained in No. 7,
reproductions of those in Messrs Smith’s work, and the plates are
executed by their process. Beyond including the plates no notice of the
tartans is taken. The work has been frequently reissued.
11. _Sketches of the Clans of Scotland_: With Coloured Plates of
Tartans. By Clansmen, J. M. P.,-F. W. S. Edinburgh: Maclachlan &
Stewart. 1884. 8vo.
The twenty-two plates of tartans contained in this book are
lithographic reproductions, poorly executed, of tartans illustrated in
the _Vestiarium Scoticum_. A short introduction and some notes on the
clans accompany the plates.
12. _The Tartans of the Clans of Scotland_; also an Introductory
Account of Celtic Scotland, Clanship, Chiefs, their Dress, Arms, &c.,
and with Historical Notes of each Clan. By James Grant, author of _The
Romance of War_, _Old and New Edinburgh_, &c. Emblazoned arms of the
chiefs, and a map of the districts occupied by the various clans are
added. W. & A. K. Johnston, Edinburgh and London. 1886. Imperial 4to.
The seventy-one tartans illustrated in this beautiful book will, with
one exception, be found to have been included in the works previously
referred to. There is, as in the case of the Messrs Smith’s book, a
number of errors in identification and arrangement. The illustrations
are the finest examples of lithographic printing as applied to tartan
designs which have hitherto appeared, and they show clearly where the
method succeeds and where it fails.
13. _The Scottish Clans and their Tartans_: With Notes. W. & A. K.
Johnston, Edinburgh and London. [1891.] 16mo.
There has never hitherto been brought together in such a compact form
so many examples of tartans, the work containing ninety-six plates
executed by the same process as in the publishers’ larger work (No.
12). It is necessary, however, to point out that some of them are
designs invented within a few years, and of no authority as clan
tartans. A second edition, with additional notes, was issued in 1892.