[Footnote 1: _The Heimskringla_, or Chronicle of the Kings of Norway.
Translated from Icelandic of Snorro Sturleson, with a preliminary
dissertation, by Samuel Laing, Esq. London: Longmans, 1844. Magnus
Barefoot’s Saga (written by Snorro Sturleson 1178-1241), Vol. III., p.
139.]
[Footnote 2: Laing translates the word “kyrtlu” as “kirtles;” Gregory
and Skene translate it “tunics.”]
[Footnote 3: _Registrum Episcopatus Aberdonensis_, Vol. II., p. 8.
Spalding Club.]
[Footnote 4: _Scotichronicon_, Gregory’s translation. _Transactions of
the Iona Club_, p. 27.]
[Footnote 5: _Borthwick’s Remarks on British Antiquities._ Edinburgh,
1776, p. 139.]
[Footnote 6: _Pinkerton’s History of Scotland from the Accession of the
House of Stuart._ London, 1797, Vol. I., p. 493.]
[Footnote 7: _Pitcairn’s Criminal Trials_, Vol. I., Part I., p. 114,
note.]
[Footnote 8: _Accounts of the Lord High Treasurer of Scotland_, edited
by Thomas Dickson, Curator of the Historical Department of H.M. General
Register House, Vol. I., 1473-1498, Preface, p. clxxxv, and note; and
Glossary, p. 441.]
[Footnote 9: Scottish Collection of Gaelic MSS. in Advocates’ Library,
No. XVI., A.A., line 2. For the correct reading as well as translation
of this interesting manuscript the Editor is indebted to Professor
Mackinnon. In the “Report of the Committee of the Highland Society
of Scotland appointed to inquire into the nature and authenticity of
the Poems of Ossian” (Edinburgh, 1805), it is, on the authority of Mr
Astle, stated to be a writing of the ninth or tenth century (Report, p.
305). In the opinion of Professor Mackinnon the manuscript cannot be
assigned to an earlier period than about 1400.]
[Footnote 10: _Acts of the Parliament of Scotland, 1429_, Record Issue,
Vol. II., p. 18.]
[Footnote 11: Constable’s edition of Major, published for the Scottish
History Society. Edinburgh, 1892, pp. 48, 49.]
[Footnote 12: _Ibid._, p. 333.]
[Footnote 13: _Ibid._, p. 359.]
[Footnote 14: _Lord High Treasurer’s Accounts_, 1537-38, fol. 63, MS., H.M. General Register House.]
[Footnote 15: See letter printed in full in _Bannatyne Miscellany_,
Vol. I., and also in _Collectanea de Rebus Albanicis_. The Editor
is indebted for a correct transcription of the above portion to Mr
Augustus W. Franks, C.B., British Museum.]
[Footnote 16: _Histoire de la Guerre d’Escosse pendant les Campagnes,
1548 et 1549._ Par Jean de Beaugué. Maitland Club. The translation is
that of Donald Gregory. See _Transactions of the Iona Club_, p. 31.]
[Footnote 17: _Register of the Privy Council_, Vol. I., p. 136.]
[Footnote 18: _The Chronicles of Scotland_, by Robert Lindsay of
Pitscottie, Edition 1814, Vol. I., Introduction, p. xxiii.]
[Footnote 19: _The Historie of Scotland_, wrytten first in Latin by the
most Reverend and Worthy Jhone Leslie, Bishop of Rosse, and translated
in Scottish by Father James Dalrymple Religious in the Scottis Cloister
of Regensburg the zeere of God 1596. Edited for the Scottish Text
Society by the Rev. Father E. G. Cody, O.S.B., 1885, pp. 90-94. This
quaint Scots version is given in preference to the ordinary one from
the Latin, as it conveys an extremely vivid picture of the ancient
dress written by a contemporary.]
[Footnote 20: _Ibid._, p. 377.]
[Footnote 21: Aikman’s translation of _Buchanan’s History of Scotland_,
Vol. I., pp. 40, 41. Buchanan’s description was incorporated in
_Certeine Matters concerning the Realme of Scotland, composed together
as they were Anno Domini 1597_, by John Monipennie, who also included
it in the _Summarie of the Scots Chronicles, 1612_.]
[Footnote 22: _The Booke of the Universall Kirk of Scotland_, Vol. I.,
pp. 331, 335. Bannatyne Club.]
[Footnote 23: _Extracts from the Council Register of the Burgh of
Aberdeen, 1570-1625_, as printed by the Spalding Club, Vol. II., pp.
27, 373.]
[Footnote 24: _The Image of Irelande, 1581._ Reprinted by A. & C.
Black, Edinburgh, 1883, p. 50.]
[Footnote 25: _Ibid._ p. 105.]
[Footnote 26: _La Navigation du Roy d’Escosse Iaques Cinquiesme du
nom_, referred to in the _Transactions of the Iona Club_, pp. 36, 37.]
[Footnote 27: _The Great Seal Register_, 1580-1593, edited by John
Maitland Thomson, M.A., Advocate, No. 1491.]
[Footnote 28: _Vestiarium Scoticum._ William Tait, Edinburgh, 1842,
Introduction, p. 59; and _A Reply to the Quarterly Review upon the
Vestiarium Scoticum_. William Blackwood & Sons, Edinburgh, 1848, p. 23.]
[Footnote 29: _Register of Signatouris in the Office of Comptrollerie_,
Vol. XII., 1587-1589, fol. 82.]
[Footnote 30: _Charge of the Temporalitie of Kirklandis: North Side of
the Forth._ MS. in H.M. General Register House, fol. 94.]
[Footnote 31: _Register of Signatouris in the Office of Comptrollerie_,
Vol. XXXIV., 1617, fol. 120.]
[Footnote 32: _Ibid._, Vol. XLVII., 1630, fol. 208.]
[Footnote 33: _The Pourtrait of True Loyalty exposed in the Family of
Gordon without interruption to this present year 1691, with a relation
of the Siege of the Castle of Edinburgh in the year 1689._ MS. in
Advocates’ Library. It is partially quoted in _De Rebus Albanicis_.]
[Footnote 34: _Iona Club Transactions_, pp. 37, 38.]
[Footnote 35: _Origines Parochiales Scotiæ_, Vol. II., i. 156.]
[Footnote 36: _The Montgomery Manuscripts, containing Accounts of
the Colonization of the Ardes in the County of Down in the Reigns
of Elizabeth and James._ Printed from the Original Manuscripts and
Transcripts of MSS., composed by William Montgomery, Esq., second son
of Sir James Montgomery, between the years 1698 and 1704. Belfast,
1830, pp. 53, 54.]
[Footnote 37: _Camden’s Britannia_ (Gough’s Edition, 1789), Vol. III.,
p. 389.]
[Footnote 38: _The Pennyless Pilgrimage, or the Moneylesse
Perumbulation of John Taylor, alias the Kings Majesties Water-Poet:
How he travelled on Foot from London to Edenborough in Scotland, not
carrying any money to or fro, neither Begging, Borrowing or asking
Meate, Drinke, or Lodging._ Hume Brown’s Edition. Edinburgh: David
Douglas, 1892, pp. 120, 121.]
[Footnote 39: _History of Scots Affairs from 1637 to 1641_, by James
Gordon, Parson of Rothiemay. Spalding Club, Vol. III., Appendix to
Preface, pp. xliii., xliv.]
[Footnote 40: Defoe’s Works: _Memoirs of a Cavalier_, Vol. II., pp.
112, 113. Bohn, London, 1854. As to the genuine authorship of this
work, see Lee’s Bibliography in his edition of Defoe’s Works.]
[Footnote 41: _Acts of the Parliament of Scotland, 1661_, Vol. VII., p.
186.]
[Footnote 42: _Brome’s Travels_, Second Edition, London, 1707, pp. 179,
180.]
[Footnote 43: _Tours in Scotland, 1677 and 1681_, by Thomas Kirk and
Ralph Thoresby, edited by P. Hume Brown. Edinburgh, David Douglas,
1892, pp. 28, 29.]
[Footnote 44: See the letter quoted in _Blackwood’s Magazine_, April
1817, p. 69. The present extract has been compared with the original
in the Advocates’ Library. In the _Transactions of the Iona Club_ “not
one of ten of them hath breaches” is made to read “not one of them
hath breaches,” and this very serious error has been duly copied by
subsequent writers on the Highland dress.]
[Footnote 45: _A Collection of Several Poems and Verses composed upon
various occasions, by Mr William Cleland, Lieutenant-Colonel to my Lord
Angus’s Regiment._ Printed in the year 1697, pp. 11-13.]
[Footnote 46: Lyon Register in H.M. General Register House, Edinburgh.
Matriculation dated about 1672.]
[Footnote 47: _Alexander Nisbet’s Heraldic Plates, originally intended
for his System of Heraldry._ Waterston and Sons, Edinburgh, 1892.]
[Footnote 48: Nisbet MS., Advocates’ Library, pp. 33-35.]
[Footnote 49: Introduction to _Nisbet’s Heraldic Plates_, p. xlvi.]
[Footnote 50: _The Grameid: an Historic Poem descriptive of the
Campaign of Viscount Dundee in 1689_, by James Philip of Almerieclose.
1691. Translated by the Rev. Alexander D. Murdoch, F.S.A. Scot., for
the Scottish History Society, 1888.]
[Footnote 51: _Some Account of the Battle of Killiecrankie and what
Followed thereupon._ The MS. is cited in _The Costume of the Clans_, p.
104.]
[Footnote 52: _An Account of the Isle of Man, ... with a Voyage to
I-Columb-Kill_, by William Sacheverell, Esq., late Governor of the Isle
of Man. 8vo. Manx Society, 1859, p. 99. The first edition was published
in 1702.]
[Footnote 53: _A Description of the Western Islands of Scotland, by M.
Martin, Gent._ The first edition of this work appeared in 1703, and a
second, “very much corrected,” in 1716. It is from this second edition,
pp. 206-210, that the extract is taken.]
[Footnote 54: _A Collection of Original Papers about the Scots Plot._
London, 1704, pp. 3, 4.]
[Footnote 55: _Court Books of the Regality of Grant, 1703-1710._ MSS.
in H.M. General Register House.]
[Footnote 56: By the courtesy of the families in possession of the
portraits referred to in the text, the author, for the purposes of
the present work, has had repeated opportunities of making careful
examinations of those referred to.]
[Footnote 57: _The Present State of Scotland_, Second Edition, 1711.]
[Footnote 58: _A Journey through Scotland, by the author of The Journey
through England_ (John Macky). London, 1723, p. 194.]
[Footnote 59: _System of Heraldry_, Edition 1804, Vol. I., p. 415.
The original edition of this work was published in 1722, but was most
probably written fifteen or twenty years before that date.]
[Footnote 60: MS., Lyon Office. See facsimile of a portion of the page
containing the Cluny reference in the Introduction to the _Nisbet
Plates_, p. xlii.]
[Footnote 61: The original is at Fingask. It has been engraved as the
frontispiece to _The Threiplands of Fingask_.]
[Footnote 62: Captain Burt’s _Letters from a Gentleman in the North
of Scotland_, 1818, Vol. I., pp. 84-5; Vol. II., pp. 7, 84-86, 87-91.
Jamieson’s Edition.]
[Footnote 63: Burt’s _Letters_, Vol. II., pp. 102-105. Jamieson’s
Edition.]
[Footnote 64: _Scotland and Scotsmen in the Eighteenth Century_, from
the MSS. of John Ramsay, Esq. of Ochtertyre, edited by Alex. Allardice.
Blackwood, Edinburgh, 1888. Vol. I., p. 540; Vol. II., pp. 87, 88.]
[Footnote 65: _Caledonian Mercury_, 14th January 1740.]
[Footnote 66: _Ibid._, 19th February 1740.]
[Footnote 67: _Caledonian Mercury_, 4th October 1745.]
[Footnote 68: A mistake of the writer for “Ness.”]
[Footnote 69: _A Journal of the Expedition of Prince Charles Edward in
1745, by a Highland Officer._ Lockhart Papers, Vol. II., p. 505.]
[Footnote 70: _Stewart’s Sketches_, Vol. I., p. 112, Edition 1822.]
[Footnote 71: _General Orders to the Army in Scotland, 22nd December
1748._]
[Footnote 72: _Stewart’s Sketches_, Vol. I., p. 113.]
[Footnote 73: _Orders to 20th Foot [now the Lancashire Fusiliers],
dated Bamff 1752._]
[Footnote 74: _Edinburgh Evening Courant_, February 21, 23, 26, 28,
1760.]
[Footnote 75: _Ibid._, July 9, 14, 1760.]
[Footnote 76: _Stewart’s Sketches_, Vol. I., p. 114.]
[Footnote 77: _Travels in the Western Hebrides from 1782 to 1790_, by
the Rev. John Lane Buchanan, Missionary Minister to the Isles from the
Church of Scotland. London, 1793, pp. 84-90.]
[Footnote 78: _Camden’s Britannia_ (Gough’s Edition, 1789), Vol. III.,
p. 390.]
[Footnote 79: _Vestiarium Scoticum._ From the Manuscript formerly in
the Library of the Scots College at Douay, with an Introduction and
Notes by John Sobieski Stuart. Edinburgh, William Tait, 1842.]
[Footnote 80: Preface to _Vestiarium Scoticum_, pp. i.-vii.]
[Footnote 81: Advertisement annexed to _A Reply to the Quarterly Review
upon the Vestiarium Scoticum_. Edinburgh, Blackwood, 1848.]
[Footnote 82: _A Reply to the Quarterly Review_, p. 6.]
[Footnote 83: See notes on p. 47.]
[Footnote 84: _A Reply to the Quarterly Review_, p. 7.]
[Footnote 85: It may be proper to point out here that the Editor
discussed the idea of issuing a work on rare tartans, to be illustrated
by examples of the actual fabrics, with his publisher several years
ago, and it was not until the illustrations for the present work were
considerably advanced that he became aware of the existence of Miss
Dick Lauder’s copy of the _Vestiarium_, which she has so handsomely
placed at his disposal, and which contains the statement in the text.]
[Footnote 86: Copy of original letter in possession of Miss Dick
Lauder. Copies of Sir Thomas Dick Lauder’s letters to Sir Walter Scott,
along with the originals of the latter’s replies, are bound up with the
copy of the _Vestiarium_ made by Sir Thomas in 1828-9, referred to on
page 45. The volume, now in possession of Miss Dick Lauder, daughter
of Sir Thomas, also contains the cleverly executed water-colours by
Charles Edward Stuart referred to in the above letter and the quaint
illustrations by Sir Thomas Dick Lauder subsequently referred to.]
[Footnote 87: This, it will be remembered, was the copy which belonged
to John Ross, the old sword-player.]
[Footnote 88: _i.e._, the Douay MS.]
[Footnote 89: The words within brackets do not occur in Sir Thomas’s
letter to Sir Walter. They appear, however, in the original letter
written by the father of the Messrs Hay, and preserved by Sir Thomas in
the volume now in Miss Dick Lauder’s possession.]
[Footnote 90: Sir Walter did so, and it is reproduced on page 56.]
[Footnote 91: This, it will be remembered, was the copy got from John
Ross with the date 1721.]
[Footnote 92: _Quarterly Review_, No. CLXI., June 1847, Art. II., p.
57, “The Heirs of the Stuarts.”]
[Footnote 93: _Ibid._, pp. 63, 64.]
[Footnote 94: Sir Thomas Dick Lauder.]
[Footnote 95: _A Reply to the Quarterly Review upon the Vestiarium
Scoticum._ William Blackwood & Sons, Edinburgh, 1848, pp. 4-7.]
[Footnote 96: See _Reply_, pp. 8-16.]
[Footnote 97: An evident misprint for “Watson” in the _Quarterly
Review_ article.]
[Footnote 98: Professor Skene’s reference here is to a statement in
the preface to the _Vestiarium_, to the effect that the Bishop of Ross
noted his acquisition of Sir Richard Urquhart’s work in his Diary
(which he quotes in full) remaining among a portion of the Douay
papers, in the possession of the “late Mr Robert Watson, well known
in the history of the Stuart papers.” For an account of Watson’s
remarkable career see an article by Andrew Lang in the _Illustrated
London News_ of 12th March 1892.]
[Footnote 99: _Quarterly Review_ article, p. 67.]
[Footnote 100: _Ante_, p. 49.]
[Footnote 101: _Ante_, p. 51.]
[Footnote 102: Facsimile of John Leslie’s signature as Bishop of Ross
in the _Lord Treasurer’s Accounts_, 1564-6, H.M. General Register
House, Edinburgh. The date of the audit, to which the bishop’s
signature is affixed, is 27th June 1566.]
[Footnote 103: Facsimile of the signature contained in the _Vestiarium
Scoticum_ referred to on preceding page.]
[Footnote 104: An example from _Nichols’ Autographs_, obtained from
the bishop’s letter to Lord Burleigh, dated Paris, 28th February 1579,
preserved in the British Museum.]
[Footnote 105: Why the simple red and black check receives the title
of Rob Roy is something of a mystery. In _Authenticated Tartans of
the Clans and Families of Scotland_ (Smith: Mauchline, 1850) it is
asserted, and the statement is repeated in _The Tartans of the Clans
of Scotland_ (W. & A. K. Johnston: Edinburgh, 1886) without attempt at
verification, that three genuine portraits of Rob Roy represent him as
wearing it; but these and other so-called Rob Roy portraits—be their
value what it may—afford no sanction whatever for the design. The
Editor is not aware on what authority the portraits are classed as Rob
Roy. He has seen seven paintings, including the three above referred
to, in which the figure is identical, all known as Rob Roy, and in each
a separate pattern appears, none of them showing the simple red and
black check. The tartan is accepted by sound authorities as the old
Macgregor clan pattern. There are fine examples of it in a collection
of tartans made by the Highland Society of London in 1816-17, labelled
and sealed “The MacGregor Tartan for undress ordinary clothing. The
Seal of Arms of Sir John MacGregor Murray of MacGregor, Baronet.
[Signed] John M. Murray.”]