THE CHINA COMMAND
[Sidenote: 1867. Flag in _Salamis_, July 31.]
We had heard much of the bears in this island of Yesso, and Mr. Gower
was pressed for information. There were plenty of them, and two had
been down for several nights running to rob a hut on the beach, only
half a mile distant from the village, of salt fish.
Lieutenant Pusey, a keen sportsman, having obtained a guide, undertook
to lie in wait for these bears; he found their traces, the marks where
they had removed the thatch to get at the fish, and patiently remained
until daylight, but Bruin did not put in an appearance. Pusey was,
however, sanguine enough to try again the following night, with same
success: the whole country round was either covered by forest or was
one mass of rank vegetation over six feet high, from which it would
have been impossible to have dislodged any game.
During the two days we allowed ourselves, weather permitting, to
remain, one was to be devoted to a ride to Juranai, where we were to
see the aborigines, the other to visit the coal-mines.
[Sidenote: Aug. 1.]
We landed, a party of six, and proceeded to Gower’s house, where he and
his friends, the Japanese officers, had provided ponies. Another party
had gone to haul the seine off the mouth of a river two miles to the
eastward, up which we had heard of trout and salmon. Our ride, although
hot, was an agreeable one, enlivened by the addition to our party of
Mitford. On arrival we found the Japanese Governor, a man of no great
rank, had kindly provided a feast at his residence. The Japanese are
proverbial for their cleanliness, and floors covered with mats. We
found this second to none in that respect, and we voluntarily, before
entering, kicked off our dirty boots. With the exception of sweetmeats
and cakes, a Japanese feast is a nauseous thing: sea-slugs, stale fish,
uncooked ditto, and scuttle-fish do not suit the English palate.
We walked afterwards to that part of the village where the Jonos dwell.
They are an extraordinary-looking race; short and square built, but the
great peculiarity is their shock head of hair, which extends to their
face and body. Their houses were cleaner than other savages, but that
is probably owing to the force of example set them by the Japanese.
They live chiefly by hunting the bear, which they are allowed to do
under certain restrictions. One is that the skins are sold to the
Government. Each village has a pet bear which is made much of, but off
which they eventually have a grand feast and consume much saki.
The only curio obtained was one presented to me by the chief--a slip
of wood, the size of a large paper-cutter, but carved on it were the
figures of a Jono and a bear, while between them was a plate of fish
and a bowl of saki. The use of this instrument was to lift the hair
of the upper lip so as to clear the way for the bowl of saki, which
it was essential should be drank at the feast of the bear. During the
operation of the cutting up and cooking of the pet for the feast, the
old women are allowed to howl and cry.
[Sidenote: Friday, Aug. 1.]
I joined the party to see the coal-mine. Suttie and the Commodore
preferred trying their hand at the salmon, which were just arriving on
the coast.
An agreeable and pretty ride of two miles along a valley down which
a small rivulet runs, and up which the tram or railway is being
constructed, brought us to the coal-mine, into which--more to please
Mr. Gower than myself, as nothing can be more uninteresting--I crept,
half-doubled, through mud and water. After expressing my satisfaction,
and taking a long and patient look at the adjacent hills covered with
timber and brushwood, and rendered still more interesting to Mr. Gower
by the vast seams of coal underneath, the line of which he seemed to
know as exactly as if the mountain was of crystal, we wended our way
back on foot, collecting several specimens of the land helix.
When we got back, a swell from westward had set the _Salamis_ rolling,
and made us anxious about the party who had crossed the bar to fish
the river. About 7 P.M. they were seen coming off, but not without
having been swamped, with the loss of rods and other gear. A heavy
roller filled the boat. They wisely sat still until the two following
waves had broken over them, and then jumped out and hauled their boat.
They were assisted by the kind natives, who refused any remuneration
for their trouble. We took leave of our kind and obliging friend, Mr.
Gower, who, after having come on board to see me off, hurried on shore
again to send assistance over the hills to the missing fishing party.
We got under way at 7 P.M., and proceeded to the southward under easy
steam.
[Sidenote: Aug. 4.]
Just before sunset we made out the smoke of two steamers, which proved
to be the _Basilisk_ and _Serpent_, preparing to take their departure
from Nigata; but making us out, did not weigh. Captain Bullock having
left with us directions where our boats might safely cross the bar,
they left soon after daylight.
[Sidenote: Nigata, Japan, Aug. 5.]
Nigata is a large town, situated on the left bank, about three miles
from the mouth. It belongs to the Tycoon, and but for the insuperable
objection to a bar, and the exposure to all winds from N. to S.W. in
the anchorage outside, it would most likely have been one of the new
Treaty Ports. As it is, it carries on a large trade with junks.
The Governor had sent off officers with the usual compliments, whom we
met as we proceeded on shore. I had left the ship as early as 8.30,
fearing the Governor might have come off to wait upon me himself, but I
believe he had no intention of doing anything of the sort. The officers
we met turned about and accompanied us, not only to the shore, but
never left us until we were again afloat; they were spies, but under
the happy delusion that we imagined them to be a guard of honour!
However, they did not molest or interfere.
Our object was to see the town and shops, and they took us to them.
The town is clean, intersected by canals, and the population, although
naturally anxious to see the strangers, did not molest us in any way.
On our way back we were requested to visit a rather imposing temple,
but thinking it was an attempt to get me to call on the Governor,
whose duty it was to wait on me, I passed on. But afterwards, on their
explaining that if I would walk in and partake of refreshment, the
Governor would call on me there, I went back.
Tables and seats had been prepared for us, and after we had had some
tea and fruit, and had waited about a quarter of an hour, the mob at
the entrance gate was dispersed, and running footmen came in advance,
announcing the Governor’s approach. He arrived, mounted on a remarkably
nice strong pony, but dismounted at the end of the road and approached
on foot. We, directed by Mitford, rose to receive him. The usual
commonplace conversation took place as to weather. How old we were, and
how well we all looked; all of which was taken down in writing, before
we took our departure. I was rather struck with the appearance of the
Governor, apparently superior in intellect to the generality of his
countrymen. Good-looking, and said he was fifty.
We got under way at 3 P.M., intending, according to agreement with Sir
Harry Parkes, to go to Ongi, a small fishing village near the south end
of the Island of Sado, about thirty miles; but on nearing the land, we
made out our two consorts at anchor off a village, which proved to be
Oda. We came to with them and remained for the night.
[Sidenote: Aug. 6.]
Weighed together at 5 A.M., Sir Harry having made arrangements to meet
the Governor at Ongi, a small bay on the south-west side, and then to
visit the gold and silver mines, some five miles distant, on foot. I
preferred stopping at Ongi, having heard of hares and pheasants in
abundance.
We came to in a snug little port, which required some caution in
approaching, but was protected by rocks sufficiently numerous and high
to break the force of a heavy sea. The favourable reports of game
produced many sportsmen, but the weather being sultry, vegetation high,
and no dogs, I waited the result. The return was 1 hare, 1 pigeon, 2
ducks, and 8 pheasants; total, 12. We weighed as soon as they came on
board, and stood out under easy steam.
[Sidenote: Manao, Aug. 7.]
8 A.M.--Came to in four fathoms off Manao. Found a steamer with the
Daimio Kaga’s flag flying. Hitherto we had visited only such ports as
belonged to the Tycoon. We were now in that of one of these feudal
princes. Whether this will be the treaty port to be opened on the west
coast, some one besides the Tycoon will have to be consulted.
About midday _Basilisk_ and _Serpent_ arrived. The authorities on
shore had sent off to the capital notice of the intended visit of our
Minister. Prince Kaga had not hitherto shown any friendly disposition
towards foreigners. There is no doubt but that this, his Port of Manao,
is the best situated and the finest harbour on the west coast. The
other port of Oösima, and next best harbour, about 100 miles to the
southward, is likewise a Daimio’s port, but too near to Osaka. Nigata
would do well if no vessels larger than junks wanted to enter the
river: no safe anchorage outside. The Tycoon has faithfully promised to
open whatever port on the west coast we may decide on.
[Sidenote: Aug. 9.]
It was on the morning of the third day, Friday 9th, that a dozen of
the Daimio’s officers arrived, and immediately waited on Sir Harry
Parkes on board the _Basilisk_. The interview was long, but not
satisfactory. They were satisfied with what trade they had, and did not
wish theirs to be made a treaty port. They were very civil and polite.
Their Daimio was ill, and on that account could receive no one: no
encouragement. But I have a great idea that our Minister will carry
his point, although I do not see my way. Nothing would unite these
Damios so soon as an attempt on the part of the Tycoon to coerce one
of them; besides, the Tycoon has had a lesson. Seaton and Mitford were
sent overland to Osaka to wait there our arrival: a perilous journey I
should think. At 5 P.M. we got under way for Nagasti, to be followed by
_Basilisk_. _Serpent_ left to survey the harbour.
[Sidenote: Nagasaki, Aug. 12.]
On arrival in Nagasaki Harbour, heard of the cruel murder of two seaman
of the _Icarus_, Lord Charles Scott. The poor fellows had fallen asleep
outside a tea-house, when some passing Yakomins slashed their bodies
with their two-handed swords, almost cutting them in two. My first step
was to communicate the facts to the Hon. Minister in Japan, in the hope
that the crime might be traced to its source. Suspicion fell on some of
Prince Tosa’s retainers.
[Illustration: _Charlie Scott._]
Whilst here we visited a Daimio, the Prince of Awa. We were received
in a magnificent feudal castle, with drawbridges, moats, etc. I was
accompanied by two or three members of the Legation, Suttie, Secretary
and Flag-Lieutenant. On first arrival our presents were sent in, and
then we were presented to the Prince. A dinner followed; the Prince
took the head of the table; his guests were arranged according to rank.
Half-way down, the table was depressed some feet below the level of
the upper table, and here his subordinate officers were entertained,
illustrating the “below the salt” of our feudal times. The officer
plied us with warm saki, but its effects showed sooner on our tempters
than on ourselves.
Dinner was followed by a speech from the Daimio, who welcomed us to his
territory, and, pointing to a recess full of Japanese curios, expressed
a hope we would take with us some specimens of the manufactures of the
country, as indeed we did, none leaving without a present.
Then followed Japanese theatricals, which of course we could not
follow. On retiring to rest we found that a four-poster bed had been
rigged up for each of us. A huge tub of cold water was provided, and a
pint bottle of champagne was on each dressing-table, the Prince having
evidently been informed that such conditions were essential to the
everyday life of an Englishman.
[Sidenote: Sept. 1.]
Weighed and stood to the south-east.
[Sidenote: Sept. 25.]
Came to off entrance to the Peiho.
[Sidenote: Sept. 26.]
Stood into river, passed Taku Forts, and after the usual grounding at
the bends and fouling of junks came to for the night.
[Sidenote: Peking, Sept. 27.]
Moored off the British Consulate Tientsin. Received with the greatest
kindness by Sir Rutherford and Lady Alcock; under their auspices saw
much of Peking, which to the ordinary barbarian is not allowed.
Our visit was specially marked by a most enjoyable riding excursion
to the Great Wall of China. The party consisted of our Minister, Lady
Alcock and her charming daughter, Miss Lowder, Conolly, one of the
Secretaries of our Legation, Risk, Suttie, and Harry Stephenson. Riding
in easy stages, the native servants were always one stage ahead, so
that on arrival, after a refreshing bath, we found a table arranged
with every possible luxury. Striking almost due north we stopped for
the night at Cha-ho. Thence to the Ming Tombs, approached through an
avenue of animals of colossal proportions, carved in stone--elephants,
camels, and horses; and that they were not without artistic merit is
proved by the fact that some of our horses whinnied and approached
these stone representations in evident recognition.
[Sidenote: Oct.]
We slept that night at Nankow. Next morning rode to Kou-li-yeng, our
halting-place for the night. Next day to Miyü-hsien, where we had an
admirable dinner.
Ku-pee-Kou, by the Great Wall of China, was the turning-point for
home, visiting on the road Chao-tu-Chiang, Loo-shan, Niulang-shein,
Saw-Chia-tieu and Semho, our last halting-place before re-entering the
hospitable legation at Peking. We varied the amusement by an occasional
raid on the wild geese and partridges met with on the road.
I was much impressed by the evidence of former splendour and
prosperity--temples carved in marble; baths fed by natural hot springs;
all in decay and covered with dust inches thick, the collection of
centuries--so much so, that names inscribed on the dust, with dates
many years previously, were as sharply defined as if written yesterday.
[Sidenote: Oct. 25.]
This delightful visit over we returned to Nagasaki, calling _en route_
at Cheefoo. A short stay in Japan, and we went south again, anchoring
in Hong Kong on November 10, when I shifted the flag to _Princess
Charlotte_. Then to Shanghai, where old memories and old friends
clustered round me: the scene of many a stirring day in the _Dido_.
Again to Japan, and further cruises on that beautiful and interesting
coast.