UNFORESEEN DIFFICULTIES IN PROCEEDING TO MADRID--DEATH OF KING
FERDINAND--CHANGE IN OUR PLANS--ROAD TO
ANDUJAR--ALCOLEA--MONTORO--PORCUNA--ANDUJAR--ARJONA--TORRE
XIMENO--DIFFICULTY OF GAINING ADMISSION--SUCCESS OF A
STRATAGEM--CONSTERNATION OF THE AUTHORITIES--SPANISH ADHERENCE TO
FORMS--CONTRASTS--JAEN--DESCRIPTION OF THE CASTLE, CITY, AND
CATHEDRAL--LA SANTA FAZ--ROAD TO GRANADA--OUR KNIGHTLY
ATTENDANT--PARADOR DE SAN RAFAEL--HOSPITABLE FARMER--ASTONISHMENT
OF THE NATIVES--GRANADA--EL SOTO DE ROMA--LOJA--VENTA DE
DORNEJO--COLMENAR--FINE SCENERY--ROAD FROM MALAGA TO ANTEQUERA, AND
DESCRIPTION OF THAT CITY.
I found Cordoba the same dull, sultry, loyal city as at the period of my
former visit; after devoting a day, therefore, to the incomparable
_Mezquita_, we repaired to the police office to redeem our passports,
and have them _visé_ for Madrid, purposing to proceed to the capital by
_Diligence_. We there learnt, however, that our route from Gibraltar,
having passed _near_ the district wherein the cholera had appeared, the
public safety demanded that our journey should be continued on
horseback, and, moreover, that each day's ride should not exceed eight
leagues!
The prospect of a fortnight's baking on the parched plains of La Mancha
and Castile, which this preposterous precaution held out, was, of
itself, enough to make any one _crusty_; but the additional vexation of
finding that all our precautions had been unavailing, all our
information erroneous, made us return to the _posada_, thoroughly out of
humour with _Las Cosas de España_. Our landlord comforted us, however,
by engaging--if we would but wait patiently for a few days, and leave
the business entirely in his hands--to get matters arranged so that we
might yet proceed on to Madrid by the diligence; and, knowing the wheels
within wheels by which Spanish affairs of state are put in motion, we
willingly came to this compromise, and remained quietly paying him for
our breakfasts and dinners during the best part of a week, receiving
each day renewed assurances that every thing was proceeding
"_corriente_."
The second day after our arrival at Cordoba, the inhabitants were moved
to an unusual degree of excitement, in consequence of an _estafette_
having passed through the city during the night, bearing despatches from
Madrid to the Captain General of the Province, and rumours were afloat
that the king was so seriously ill as to occasion great fears for his
life; and, on the following day, public anxiety was yet further excited
by a report that the Captain General had passed through Cordoba on his
way to the capital; leading to the general belief that Ferdinand was
actually dead.
In the evening our host came to us with a very long face, and informed
us, confidentially, that such was the case, though, for political
reasons, it had been deemed prudent not to make the melancholy news
public; adding, that, in consequence of this unforeseen and unfortunate
event, he regretted to say the authorities had been seized with such a
panic, that he had altogether failed in his endeavour to have the stain
effaced from our bill of health. Nevertheless, he said, he hoped yet to
be able to arrange matters so as to ensure our being received into the
diligence, _without any questions being asked_ at Andujar, if we would
but remain quietly where we were for a few days longer, and then proceed
to that place on horseback.
The news received from Madrid had, however, decided us to give up the
plan of continuing our journey thither. I knew enough of Spain to
foresee what would be the result of all the intrigues which had been
carried on behind the curtains of the imbecile Ferdinand's death-bed.
"You are quite right, Señor," said Blas, to whom I made known our change
of plans, "we shall now have a disputed succession, for, be assured, Don
Carlos is not the man to forego his just rights without a
struggle.--Alas! this only was wanting to fill my unhappy country's cup
of misery to overflowing."
Although thus unwillingly forced to abandon the project of crossing the
Sierra Morena, we determined, whilst the country yet remained quiet, to
extend our tour further to the eastward, and, by proceeding along the
_arrecife_ to Madrid as far as Andujar, gain the road which leads from
thence to Jaen; a city, which the want of practicable roads leading from
it to the south has, until late years (during which that deficiency has
been remedied), been very rarely visited by travellers.
Recommending Señor Blas to postpone his projected barefoot pilgrimage
into Gallicia, until the rainy season had set in, and made the roads
soft, we departed from Cordoba by the great post route to the capital,
which, as far as Alcolea, is conducted along the right bank of the
Guadalquivír, and is a fine, broad, and well-kept gravel road.
Alcolea is seven miles from Cordoba. It is a small village of but twenty
or thirty houses, and, in the opinion of Florez, occupies the site of
the ancient town of Arva. The _arrecife_ here crosses to the left bank
of the river by a handsome marble bridge, of eighteen arches, built in
1788-92. The passage of this bridge was obstinately contested by the
Spaniards, in the campaign of 1808, but a party of the French, which
had crossed the river at Montoro, falling upon its defenders in flank,
forced them to retreat.
From hence to Carpio is ten miles. The country is undulated, and the
road--along which there is not a single village, and scarcely half a
dozen houses--keeps within sight of the Guadalquivír the whole way,
affording many pleasing views of the winding stream and its overhanging
woods and olive groves.
The town of Carpio is left about a quarter of a mile off, on the right.
It is situated on a hill, and by some is supposed to be the ancient city
of Corbulo. Pliny, however, distinctly says that place was _below_
Cordoba, and Florez fixes it in the vicinity of Palma.
From Carpio to Aldea del Rio is twelve miles, the country continuing
much the same as heretofore. At three miles, the road reaches the small
town of Pedro Abad (or Perabad) in the vicinity of which is a
_despoblado_,[151] where various medals and vestiges have been found
that determine it to be the site of Sacili, mentioned by Pliny.
Proceeding onwards, the town of Bujalance may occasionally be seen on
the right, distant about a league and a half from the Guadalquivír; and
at seven miles from Carpio, we passed Montoro, a large town situated on
the margin of the river, and about three quarters of a mile to the left
of the _arrecife_. This town has been determined by antiquaries to be
Ripepora.
The country about Aldea del Rio is rather pretty, and the place has a
thriving look compared with the miserable towns we had lately seen; its
population is about 1,800 souls. We halted here for the night, and found
the _posada_ most wretched.
At a distance of nine (geographic) miles from Aldea del Rio, in a
south-east direction, is the town of Porcuna; its situation, Florez
justly observes, agreeing so well with that of Obulco, as given both by
Strabo[152] and Pliny,[153] as to leave no doubt of their identity.
Inscriptions, monuments, coins, &c., which have been found there, quite
confirm this opinion, and an important point is thus gained in tracing
the operations of Cæsar in his last campaign against the sons of Pompey;
since Obulco, which he is mentioned as having reached in twenty-seven
days from Rome, may be considered the advanced post of the country that
was favourable to his cause.
The present ignoble name of the town--Porcuna,--appears to have been
bestowed upon it from the extraordinary fecundity of a _sow_; an
inscription, commemorative of the birth of thirty young pigs at one
litter, being preserved to this day in the church of the Benedictine
friars, and is thus worded:--
C. CORNELIVS. C. F.
CN. GAL. CÆSO.
AED. FLAMEN. II. VIR
MVNICIPII. PONTIF
C. CORN. CÆSO. F.
SACERDOS. GENT. MVNICIPII
SCROFAM CVM PORCIS XXX
IMPENSA IPSORVM.
D. D.
From Aldea del Rio to Andujar is fourteen miles, making the whole
distance from Cordoba to that place forty-three miles. The country is
very gently undulated, and principally under tillage; the ride, however,
is dreary, there being but one house on the road.
Andujar stands altogether on the right bank of the Guadalquivír, which
is crossed by a bridge of nine arches. The town is reputed to contain a
population of 12,000 souls, but that number is a manifest exaggeration.
It is encompassed by old Roman walls, and defended by an ancient castle,
and is celebrated for its manufacture of pottery. It is, nevertheless, a
dilapidated, impoverished looking place.
By some Andujar is supposed to be the Illiturgi,[154] or, as it is
otherwise written, Illurtigis of the ancient historians; but Florez
fixes the site of that city two leagues higher up, but on the same bank
of the Guadalquivír, and imagines Andujar to be Ipasturgi. The locality
of the existing town certainly but ill agrees with the description of
Illurtigis given by Livy, for no part of Andujar is "covered by a high
rock."[155]
The _arrecife_ to Madrid leaves the banks of the Guadalquivír at
Andujar, striking inland to Baylen, and thence across the Sierra Morena
by the pass of _Despeña Perros_. After devoting a few hours to exploring
the old walls of the town, we recrossed the river, and bent our steps
towards Granada, taking the road to Jaen.
We proceeded that afternoon to Torre Ximena, twenty miles from Andujar.
The country is undulated, and mostly under cultivation. The road is--or,
more properly, I should say, perhaps, the places upon the road are--very
incorrectly laid down on the Spanish maps; for, instead of being
scattered east and west over the face of the country, they are so nearly
in line, as to make the general direction of the road nearly straight.
Though but a cross-country track, it is tolerably good throughout. The
first town it visits is Arjona, said to be the ancient Urgao, or
Virgao.[156] It is a poor place, of some twelve or fifteen hundred
inhabitants, and distant seven miles from the Guadalquivír.
Five miles beyond Arjona, but lying half pistol shot off the road to the
right, is the miserable little village of Escañuela; and three miles
further on, the equally wretched town of Villa Don Pardo. From hence to
Torre Ximeno (five miles) the road traverses a vast plain, but, ere we
had proceeded half way, night overtook us, and on reaching the town we
found all the entrances most carefully closed.
After making various attempts to gain admission--groping our way from
one barricade to another, until we had nearly completed the circuit of
the town--we perceived a light glimmering at some little distance in the
country, and hoping it proceeded from some _rancha_, where we might
obtain shelter from an approaching storm, if not accommodation for the
night, we spurred our jaded animals towards it as fast as the ruggedness
of the ground would admit. It proved, however, to be only the remains of
a fire made for the purpose of destroying weeds; but a peasant lad, who
was warming his evening meal over the expiring embers, pointed out a
path leading to one of the town gates, at which, he said, we might,
perhaps, gain admission.
Following his directions, we found the gate without much trouble; but a
difficulty now arose that promised to be of a more insuperable nature,
namely, that of _awaking the guard_, for the combined efforts of our
voices proved quite inadequate to the purpose.
It was very vexatious, but irresistibly ludicrous; and, prompted by this
mixed feeling of wrath and merriment, we determined to try what effect
would be produced by a general discharge of our pistols, and,
accordingly riding close up to the gate, fired a volley in the air.
A tremendous discharge of _carajos!_ responded to our _salvo_, and
soldiers, policemen, custom-house officers, and health-officers, sallied
forth, helter skelter, from the guard-house and adjacent dwellings,
making off "with the very extremest inch of possibility," under the
impression that the place was attacked.
One _aduanero_, however, more enterprising and valiant than the rest,
ventured to peep through the bars of the stockade and demand our
business; on learning which he encouragingly invited the _urbanos_ to
return to their _military duty_, whilst he despatched a messenger to the
_Alcalde_ to request instructions for their further proceedings.
We were subjected meanwhile to a most vexatious detention, occasioned by
various causes. Firstly, because the village dictator was nowhere to be
found. He had--so it eventually turned out--started from his comfortable
seat at the fire of the _posada_ (where, surrounded by a knot of
politicians, he was discussing the justice of abrogating the Salique
law), at the first report of our fire-arms, and, wrapping his cloak
around him, had rushed into the street, declaring his intention of
meeting death like the last of the Palæologi, rather than be recognised
and spared, to grace the triumph of a victorious enemy. Then we had to
wait for the key of the gate, which had been carried off in the pocket
of one of the runaway soldiers; and, lastly, for a light, the guard-lamp
having been overturned in the general confusion, and all the oil spilt.
During the half hour's delay occasioned by these various untoward
circumstances, we were subjected to a long verbal examination, touching
the part of the country whence we had come; for having wandered round
the town in our attempts to gain admission, until we had reached a gate
at the very opposite point of the compass to that which points to
Andujar, the account we gave seemed to awaken great doubts of our
veracity in the minds of these vigilant functionaries; and, even after a
lantern had been brought, and our passports delivered up, we underwent a
minute personal examination, ere being permitted to repair to the
posada.
The Spaniards say, that we English are "_victimas de la etiqueta_;" and,
certes, we may compliment them, in return, on being the most complete
_slaves to form_. Instances in proof thereof,--which, though on a
smaller scale, were scarcely less laughable than the
foregoing,--occurred daily in the course of our journey. _Par example_,
on leaving the _venta_ at Fuente de Piedra, where our sleeping apartment
was little better than the stable into which it opened, the hostess
insisted on serving our morning cup of chocolate on a table partially
covered with a dirty towel, saying, it would not be "_decente_" to allow
us to take it standing at the kitchen fire.
Here again, at Torre Ximeno, the landlord was conducting us into what he
conceived to be a befitting apartment, when his better half cried out,
"_à la sala! à la sala!_"[157] We pricked up our ears, fancying we were
to be in clover. The _sala_, however, proved to be a room about ten feet
longer than that into which we were first shown, but in every other
respect its _fac simile_; that is to say, it had bare white-washed walls
and a plastered floor, was furnished with half a dozen low rush-bottomed
chairs, and ventilated by two apertures, which at some distant period
had been closed by shutters.
The floor presented so uneven a surface, and was marked with so many
rents, that, until encouraged by the landlord's "_no tiene usted
cuidado_,"[158] I was particularly careful where I placed my feet,
taking it to be a highly finished model of the circumjacent sierras and
water-courses.
After more than the usual difficulties about bills of health and
passports, we received a very civil message from the _Alcalde_, to say,
that his house, &c. &c., were at our disposal; but our host and his
helpmate seemed so well inclined to do what was in their power to make
us _comfortable_, that we declined his polite offer.
Our landlady was still remarkably pretty, though the mother of four
children--a rare occurrence in Spain, where mothers, however young they
may be, usually look like old women. We had some little difficulty in
persuading her that we did not like garlic, and that we should be
satisfied with a very moderate quantity of oil in the _guisado_[159] she
undertook to prepare for our supper, and on which, with bread and fruit,
and some excellent wine, we made a hearty meal.
Contrasts in Spain are most absurd. We slept on thin woollen mattresses,
spread upon the before-mentioned mountainous floor--the serrated ridges
of which we had some little difficulty in fitting to our ribs--and in
the morning were furnished with towels bordered with a kind of thread
lace and fringe to the depth of at least eighteen inches; very
ornamental, but by no means useful, since the serviceable part of the
towel was hardly get-at-able.
On asking our hostess for the bill, we were referred to her husband,
which, as the Easterns say, led us to regard her with the eyes of
astonishment; for this reference from the lady and mistress to her
helpmate, is the exception to the rule, and it was to save trouble we
had applied to her, experience having taught us that the landlady was
generally the oracle on these occasions; _invariably_, indeed, when
there is any intention to cheat.
This, without explanation, may be deemed a most ungallant accusation; I
do not mean by it, however, to screen my own sex at the expense of the
fairer, for the truth is, the man adds duplicity to his other sins, by
retiring from the impending altercation. This he does either from
thinking that imposition will come with a better grace from his better
half, or, that she will be more ingenious in finding out reasons for the
exorbitance of the demand, or, at all events, words in defending it; for
any attempt at expostulation is drowned in such a torrent of whys and
wherefores, that one is glad, _coute qui coute_, to escape from the
encounter. And thus, whilst the lady's volubility is extracting the
money from their lodger's pocket, mine host stands aloof, looking as
like a hen-pecked mortal as he possibly can, and shrugging his
shoulders from time to time, as much as to say, "It is none of my doing!
I would help you if I dare, but you see what a devil she is!"
On the present occasion, however, we had no reason to remonstrate, for,
to a very moderate charge, were added numerous excuses for any thing
that might have been amiss in our accommodation, in consequence of their
ignorance of our wants.
Torre Ximeno is situated in a narrow valley, watered by a fine stream;
its walls, however, reach to the crest of the hills on both sides, and
apparently rest on a Roman foundation. It contains a population of 1,800
souls. From hence a road proceeds, by way of Martos and Alcalà la Real,
to Granada, but it is more circuitous than that by Jaen.
From Torre Ximeno to that city is two long leagues, or about nine miles.
The road now takes a more easterly direction than heretofore, and, at
the distance of three miles, reaches the village of Torre Campo. The
rest of the way lies over an undulated country, which slants gradually
towards the mountains, that rise to the eastward.
Jaen is situated on the outskirts of the great Sierra de Susana, which,
dividing the waters of the Guadalquivír and Genil, spreads as far south
as the vale of Granada. The city is built on the eastern slope of a
rough and very inaccessible ridge, whose summit is occupied by an old
castle, enclosed by extensive outworks.
The ancient name of the place was Aurinx, and it appears to have stood
just without the limits of ancient Boetica. It is now the capital of
one of the kingdoms composing the province of Andalusia, and the see of
a bishop in the archbishoprick of Toledo. Its population amounts to at
least 20,000 souls.
Jaen is in every respect a most interesting city. It is frequently
mentioned by the Roman historians, was equally noted in the time of the
Moors, from whom it was wrested by San Fernando, A.D. 1246, and of late
years has held a distinguished place in the pages of military history.
Its situation is picturesque in the extreme, the bright city being on
the edge of a rich and fertile basin, encased by wild and lofty
mountains. The asperity of the country to the south is such indeed,
that, until within the last few years no road practicable for carriages
penetrated it, and Jaen has consequently been but very-little visited by
travellers; for Granada and Cordoba, being the great objects of
attraction, the most direct road between those two places was that which
was generally preferred.
A direct and excellent road has now, however, been completed, between
Granada and the capital, passing through Jaen. This route crosses the
Guadalquivír at Menjiber, and, directed thence on Baylen, falls into the
_arrecife_ from Cordoba to Madrid, ere it enters the défilés of the
Sierra Morena.
The castle of Jaen stands 800 feet above the city, and is still a fine
specimen of a Moslem fortress, though the picturesque has been
sacrificed to the defensive by various French additions and demolitions.
It crowns the crest of a narrow ridge much in the style of the castle of
Ximena, to which, in other respects, it also bears a strong resemblance.
Its tanks and subterraneous magazines are in tolerable preservation, but
the exterior walls of the fortress were partially destroyed by the
French, in their hurried evacuation of it in 1812.
The view it commands is strikingly fine. An extensive plain spreads
northward, reaching seemingly to the very foot of the distant Sierra
Morena, and on every other side rugged mountains rise in the immediate
vicinity of the city, which, clad with vines wherever their roots can
find holding ground, present a strange union of fruitfulness and
aridity.
The city contains fifteen convents, and numerous manufactories of silk,
linen and woollen cloths, and mats, and has a thriving appearance. The
streets are, for the most part, so narrow, that, with outstretched
arms, I could touch the houses on both sides of them.
The cathedral is a very handsome edifice of Corinthian architecture, 300
feet long, and built in a very pure style; indeed every thing about it
is in good keeping for Spanish taste. The pavement is laid in chequered
slabs of black and white marble; the walls are hung with good paintings,
but not encumbered with them; the various altars, though enriched with
fine specimens of marbles and jaspers, are not gaudily ornamented; the
organ is splendid in appearance and rich in tone.
Some paintings by Moya, particularly a Holy Family, and the visit of
Elizabeth to the Virgin Mary, are remarkably good; and the _Capilla
sagrada_ contains several others by the same master, which are equally
worthy of notice: their frames of polished red marble have a good
effect.
The only specimens of sculpture of which the cathedral can boast, are
some weeping cherubim, done to the very life. The greatest curiosity it
contains is the figure of Our Saviour on the cross, dressed in a kilt;
but the treasure of treasures of the holy edifice, the proud boast of
the favoured city itself, in fact, is the _Santa faz_--the Holy face.
The _Santa faz_--so our conductor explained to us--is the impression of
Our Saviour's face, left in stains of blood on the white napkin which
bound up his head when deposited in the sepulchre. This cloth was thrice
folded over the face, so that three of these "_pinturas_," as the priest
called them, were taken. That of Jaen, he said, was the second or middle
one, the others are in Italy--where, I know not, but I have some
recollection of having heard of them when in that country.
This miraculous picture is only to be viewed on very particular
occasions, or by paying a very considerable fee; but we were perfectly
satisfied with our cicerone's assurance of its "striking resemblance" to
Our Saviour, without requiring the ocular demonstration he was most
solicitous to afford.
Attached to the cathedral is a kitchen for preparing the morning
chocolate of the priests, and which serves also as a snuggery,
where-unto they retire to smoke their _legitimos_ during the breaks in
their tedious lental services.
The _Parador de los Caballeros_, in the Plaza _del Mercado_ is
remarkably good, and the view from the front windows, looking towards
the castle is very fine.
The distance from Jaen to Granada, by the newly made _arrecife_, is
fifty-one miles. It descends gradually into the valley of the Campillos,
arriving at, and crossing the river about two miles from Jaen.
The valley is wide, flat, and covered with a rich alluvial deposit; and
extends for several leagues in both directions along the course of the
stream, encircling the city with an ever-verdant belt of cultivation.
For the succeeding three leagues, the road proceeds along this valley,
at first bordered with gardens, orchards, and vineyards, amongst which
numerous cottages and water-mills are scattered, but, after advancing
about five miles, overhung by rocky ridges, and occasionally shaded with
forest-trees.
On a steep mound, on the right hand, forming the first mountain gorge
that the road enters, is situated the _Castillo de la Guarda_, and, at
the distance of three leagues from Jaen, is the _Torre de la Cabeza_,
similarly situated on the left of the road. Beyond this, another verdant
belt of cultivation gladdens the eye, extending about a mile and a half
along the course of the Campillos. In the midst of this, is the _Venta
del Puerto Suelo_, on arriving at which our _mozo_, who for several days
had been suffering from indisposition, came to inform us "_que no podía
mas_,"[160] requested we would leave him there to rest for a couple of
days; when he hoped to be able to rejoin us at Granada by means of a
_Galera_ that travelled the road periodically.
We could not but accede to his request, and as we purposed reaching
Granada on the following day, the loss of his attendance for so short a
period was of little importance; the only difficulty was, who should
lead the baggage animal.--Fortune befriended us.
On our arrival at the inn we had been accosted by a smart-looking young
fellow, in the undress uniform of a Spanish infantry soldier, who,
seeing the disabled state of our Esquire, volunteered his services to
lead our horses to the stable, and minister to their wants; and now,
learning from our _mozo_ how matters stood, he again came forward, and
offered to be our attendant during the remainder of the journey to
Granada, to which place he himself was proceeding.
We gladly accepted his proffered services, and, after a short rest,
remounted our horses, and pursued our way; the young soldier--like an
old campaigner--seating himself between our portmanteaus on the back of
the baggage animal. Whilst jogging on before us, I observed, for the
first time, that he carried a bright tin case suspended from his
shoulder by a silken cord, and curious to know the purpose to which it
was applied, asked what it contained.
Without uttering a word in reply, he took off the case, produced
therefrom a roll of parchment, and, spreading before us a long document
concluding with the words _Io el Rey_,[161] offered it for my perusal.
If my surprise was great at the length of the scroll, it was not
diminished on finding, after wading through the usual verbose and
bombastic preamble, that it dubbed our new acquaintance a knight of the
first class of _San Fernando_, and decorated him with the ribbon and
silver clasp of the same distinguished order.
On first addressing him at the Venta, I had noticed a bit of ribbon on
his breast, but, aware that the very smell of powder, even though it
should be but that of his own musket, often _entitles_ a Spanish soldier
to a decoration; and, indeed, that it is more frequently an
acknowledgment of so many months' pay due, than of so much good service
done,[162] I had abstained from questioning him concerning it; but that
the first class decoration of a military order should have been bestowed
on one so low in rank as a corporal, I confess, surprised me; and I
concluded that its possessor was either the brother of the mistress of
some great man, or that he was passing off some other person's _honors_
as his own.
Being a very young man, it was evident he could not have seen much
service; my suspicions were, therefore, excusable, and I took the
liberty of cross-questioning him concerning the fields wherein his
laurels had been gathered. The result gave me such satisfaction that I
feel in justice bound to make the _amende honorable_ to the gallant
fellow for the foul suspicions I had entertained, by giving my readers
his history. As, however, it is somewhat long, I will postpone it for
the present--as, indeed, not having arrived at its conclusion for
several days, it is but methodically correct I should do--merely
premising in this place, that, besides the _Diploma_, the tin case
contained a statement of the particular services for which he obtained
his knighthood, drawn up and attested by the officers of his regiment.
About a mile beyond the Venta where we had fallen in with our new
attendant, the country again becomes very wild and broken, and the hills
are covered with pine woods. The valley of the Campillos gets more and
more confined as the road proceeds, and is bounded by precipitous rocks;
and, at length, on reaching the _Puerta de Arenas_, the passage, for the
road and river together, does not exceed sixty feet, the cliffs rising
perpendicularly on both sides to a considerable height.
This is a very defensible pass, looking towards Granada, but not so in
the opposite direction, as it is commanded by higher ground. It is about
eighteen miles from Jaen.
On emerging from the pass, an open, cultivated valley presents itself;
towards the head of which, distant about four miles, is Campillos
Arenas, a wretched village, containing some fifty or sixty _vecinos_. We
were stopt at the entrance by an old beggarman, who was officiating as
_health_ officer, and demanded our passports, which, on receiving, he
ceremoniously forwarded to Head Quarters by a ragged, barefoot urchin,
with the promise of an _ochavo_[163] if he used despatch in bringing
them back to us.
Our passports had now become a serious nuisance, from being completely
covered with _visés_ both inside and out; for, of course, the curiosity
of the natives was proportioned to the number of signatures they
contained, and their astonishment was boundless that we should be
travelling south at such a moment. At length, our papers were returned
to us, and the boy gained his promised reward by running with all his
might, to prove that the tedious delay we experienced was not
attributable to him.
Proceeding onwards, in three quarters of an hour, we reached the
_Parador de San Rafael_, a newly built house of call for the diligence,
recently established on this road. It is about twenty-four miles from
Jaen, and twenty-seven from Granada, though, as the crow flies, the
distance is rather shorter, perhaps, to the latter city than to the
first named. It is a place of much resort, and we were happy to find
that San Rafael presided over comfortable beds, and good dinners, though
rather careless of the state of the wine-cellar.
We started at an early hour next morning, our knightly attendant, with
his red epaulettes, and janty foraging cap, together with a _de haut en
bas_ manner assumed towards the passing peasantry and arrieros, causing
us to be regarded with no inconsiderable degree of respect.
The road, for the first eight miles, is one continuation of zig zags
over a very mountainous country, and must be kept up at an immense
expense to the government, for there is but very little traffic upon it.
The hills are principally covered with forests of ilex, but patches of
land have recently been taken into cultivation in the valleys, and
houses are thinly scattered along the road. At ten miles and a half, we
passed the first village we had seen since leaving Campillos Arenas. It
is about a mile from the road on the left. The country now becomes less
rugged than heretofore, though it continues equally devoid of
cultivation and inhabitants.
We were much disappointed at not finding a good _posada_ on the road, as
we had been led to expect. We passed two in process of building on a
magnificent scale, but nothing could be had at either. At last, after
riding four long leagues--at a foot's pace, on account of our baggage
animal--a farmer took compassion upon us, and, leading the way to his
_Cortijo_, supplied our famished horses with a feed of barley, and set
before ourselves all the good things his house afforded--melons, grapes,
fresh eggs, and delicious bread.
We arrived at the farmer's dinner hour, and a wide circle, comprising
his wife, children, cowherds, ploughboys, and dairymaids, was already
formed round the huge family bowl of _gazpacho fresco_, of which we
received a general invitation to partake. It was far too light a meal,
however, to satisfy the cravings of our appetites, and politely
declining to dip our spoons in their common mess, we commenced making
the usual preparations for an English breakfast, by unpacking our
travelling canteen and placing a skillet of water upon the fire.
The curiosity of the peasantry on these occasions amused us exceedingly.
In this instance the spectators, who probably had never before come in
such close contact with Englishmen, watched each of our movements with
the greatest interest. The beating up an egg as a substitute for milk,
excited universal astonishment; and the production of knives, forks, and
spoons, took their breath away; but when our travelling teapot was
placed on the table, their wonderment defies description; many started
from their seats to obtain a near view of the extraordinary machine,
and our host, after a minute examination, venturing, at last, to expose
his ignorance by asking to what use it was applied, exclaimed in
raptures, as if it was a thing he had heard of, "_y esa es una
tepà!_"[164] "_Una tepà!_" was repeated in all the graduated intonations
of the three generations of spectators present; "_una tepà! caramba! que
gente tan fina los Ingleses!_"
We now carried on the joke by inflating an air cushion, but the use to
which it was applied alone surprised them; for our host with a nod
signifying "I understand," took down a huge pig-skin of wine, and made
preparations to transfer a portion of its contents to our portable
_caoutchouc_ pillow. On explaining the purpose to which it was applied,
"_Jesus! una almohada!_"[165] exclaimed all the women with one
accord--"_Que gente tan deleytosa!_"[166]
Our percussion pistols next excited their astonishment, and by ocular
demonstration only could we convince them that they were fired without
"una piedra;"[167] but when I assured our host that, in England,
_diligences_ were propelled by steam at the rate of ten leagues an hour,
his amazement was evidently stretched beyond the bounds of credulity.
"_Como! sin caballos, sin mulas, sin nada, sino el vapor!_"[168] he
ejaculated; and his shoulders gradually rising above his ears, as I
repeated the astounding assertion, he turned with a look, half horror,
half amazement, to his assembled countrymen, saying as plainly as eyes
could speak--either these English deal largely with the devil, or are
most extraordinary romancers.
If our equipment surprised them, we were not less astonished at the
number of cats, without tails, that were prowling about the house; and
asking the reason for mutilating the unfortunate creatures in this
unnatural way, our host replied, "These animals, to be useful, must have
free access to every part of the premises; but, when their tails are
long, they do incredible mischief amongst the plates, dishes, and other
friable articles, arranged upon the dresser, or left upon the table;
whereas, docked as you now see them, they move about without ceremony,
and, even in the midst of a labyrinth of crockery, do not the slightest
damage. All the mischief of this animal is in his tail."
We had great difficulty in persuading our hospitable entertainer to
accept of any remuneration for what he had furnished us, and only
succeeded by requesting he would distribute our gift amongst his
children.
From his farm, which is called the _Cortijo de los Arenales_, to
Granada, is nine miles. The country, during the whole distance, is
undulated, and mostly covered with vines and olives. On the right, some
leagues distant, we saw the town and _tajo_ of Moclin; and at three
miles from the _Cortijo_ crossed the river Cubillas, which, flowing
westward to the plain of Granada, empties itself into the Genil. A
little way beyond this the Sierra de Elvira rises abruptly on the right,
and thenceforth the ground falls very gradually all the way to Granada.
Our sojourn at Granada was prolonged much beyond the period we had
originally intended, by the difficulty of ascertaining the truth of a
report that the cholera had appeared at Malaga; but, at length, it was
officially notified by a proclamation of the captain-general, that in
answer to a despatch sent to the governor of Malaga, he had been assured
that city was perfectly free from the disease; and a caravan, composed
of numberless _galeras_, _coches_, and _arrieros_, that had been
detained at Granada for a fortnight in consequence of this rumour,
forthwith proceeded to the sea-port.
Sending our baggage animal forward, directing the mozo--whose
indisposition had abated so as to allow of his rejoining us, and
resuming his duty--to proceed along the high road to Loja until we
overtook him, we set off ourselves at mid-day to visit the _Soto de
Roma_.[169]
The road thither strikes off from the _arrecife_ to Loja, soon after
passing the city of Santa Fé,[170] and traversing Chauchina, after much
twisting and turning, reaches Fuente Vaquero, a village belonging to the
Duke of Wellington, where his agent, General O'Lawler, has a house.
From thence a long avenue leads to the _Casa Real_, which is situated on
the right bank of the Genil. The avenue, both trees and road, is in a
very bad state. On the left hand there is a wood of some extent; the
forest-trees it contains are chiefly elms and white poplars, but there
are also a few oaks. The ground is extremely rich, and was covered with
fine crops of maize and hemp; and, on the whole, it struck me the estate
was in better order than the properties adjoining it.
The house, however, which at the period of my former visit to Granada
was in a tolerable state of repair, I now found in a wretched plight.
The court-yard was made the general receptacle for manure; the
coach-house and stables were turned into barns and cattle-sheds; the
garden was overgrown with weeds; and, basking in the sun, lay young
pigs amongst the roses.
From having been the favourite retreat of the Minister Wall, it has
degenerated, in fact, into a very second-rate description of farmhouse.
This change, however, was inevitable; for, besides that the taste for
country-houses is very rare amongst Spaniards, and that the difficulty
of procuring a tenant who would keep it in order would, consequently, be
very great, the situation of the house is not such as a lover of fine
scenery would choose in the vicinity of Granada.
The estate of the Soto de Roma has suffered great damage within the last
few years, from the Genil having burst its banks, laid waste the
country, and formed itself a new bed; and the stream not being now
properly banked in, keeps continually "_comiendo_"[171] the ground on
both sides. This evil should be corrected immediately, or, in the event
of another extraordinary rise in the river, it may lead to incalculable
mischief. The best and cheapest plan of doing this, would be to force
the stream back into its old channel. The elm woods on the estate would
furnish excellent piles for this purpose, and, by being cut down, would
clear some valuable ground which at present lies almost profitless.
After recrossing the Genil we arrived at another village, inhabited by
the peasantry of the Soto de Roma, and soon after at a wretched place
called Cijuela. The country in its vicinity was flooded for a
considerable extent, and we had great difficulty in following the road,
and avoiding the ditches that bound it. At length we got once more upon
the _arrecife_, and reached Lachar; a vile place, reckoned four leagues
from Granada.
From thence to the Venta de Cacin is called two leagues, but they are of
Brobdignag measurement. The road is heavy, and the country becomes hilly
soon after leaving Lachar. A league beyond the Venta de Cacin is the
Venta del Pulgar, situated in the midst of gardens and olive
plantations.
It was 11 P.M. when we arrived, for, having missed our way in fording
the wide bed of the river Cacin (which crosses the road just beyond the
Venta of that name), we had wandered for two hours in the dark; and
might have done so until morning, but that our progress was cut short by
the river Genil. We thought the wisest plan would be to return to the
venta, and endeavour to procure a guide, which we fortunately succeeded
in doing. The _ventero_ had previously informed us that he had seen our
_mozo_ pass on with the baggage animal towards Loja, which made us
rather anxious for its safety, otherwise we should have rested at his
house for the night.
On arriving at the Venta del Pulgar, we found our attendant established
there, and in some little alarm at our prolonged absence. Indeed the
faithful fellow was so uneasy, that he was about proceeding on a fresh
horse in search of us. The night was excessively cold, and we duly
appreciated the fire and hot supper his providence had caused to be
prepared.
This venta is but a short league from Loja, the ride to which place is
very delightful, the rich valley of the Genil (here contracted to the
width of a mile) being on the right, a fine range of mountains on the
left, whilst the river frequently approaches close to the road, adding
by its snakelike windings to the beauty of the scenery.
The town of Loja stands on the south side of a rocky gorge, by which the
Genil escapes from the fertile _Vega_ of Granada. The mountains on both
sides the river are lofty, and of an inaccessible nature, so that the
old Moorish fortress, though occupying the widest part of the défilé,
completely commands this important outlet from the territory of Granada,
as well as the bridge over the Genil.
It was a place of great strength in times past, and Ferdinand and
Isabella were repulsed with great loss on their first attempt to gain
possession of it. The second attack of the "Catholic kings," made some
years afterwards (i. e. in 1487), was more successful, and the English
auxiliaries, under the Earl of Rivers, particularly distinguished
themselves on the occasion.
Loja is proverbially noted for the fertility of its gardens and
orchards, the abundance and purity of its springs, and the loose morals
and hard features of its inhabitants. Its situation is peculiarly
picturesque, the town being built upon a steep acclivity, unbosomed in
groves of fruit trees and overlooked by a toppling mountain. The view of
the distant _Sierra Nevada_ gives additional interest to the scenery. It
contains a population of 9000 souls.
From Loja to Malaga is forty-three miles. The country throughout is
extremely mountainous, but the road, nevertheless, is so good as to be
traversed by a diligence. Soon after leaving Loja, a road strikes off to
the right to Antequera, four leagues; and this, in fact, is the great
road from Granada to Seville, and the only portion of it that is
interrupted by mountains.
The _arrecife_ to Malaga, leaving the village of Alfarnate to the left,
at sixteen miles, reaches the solitary venta of the same name; and two
miles beyond, the equally lonely venta of Dornejo, considered the
half-way house from Loja. The view from hence is remarkably fine, and we
enjoyed the scenery to perfection, having remained the night at the
venta, and witnessed the splendid effects of both the setting and rising
sun.
This is the highest point the road reaches, and is, I should think,
about 4000 feet above the level of the Mediterranean.
From the Venta de Dornejo the road proceeds to El Colmenar, eight miles.
The mountains that encompass this little town are clad to their very
summits with vines, and from the luscious grapes grown in its
neighbourhood is made the sweet wine, well known in England under the
name of Mountain.
From El Colmenar the road is conducted nine miles along the spine of a
narrow tortuous ridge, that divides the Gualmedina, or river of Malaga,
from various streams flowing to the eastward, reaching, at last, a point
where a splendid view is obtained of the rich vale of Malaga, encircled
by the boldly outlined mountains of Mijas, Monda, and Casarabonela. The
_coup d'oeil_ is truly magnificent; the bright city lies basking in
the sun, on the margin of the Mediterranean, seemingly at the
spectator's feet; but eight miles of a continual descent have yet to be
accomplished ere reaching it.
The engineer's pertinacious adherence to his plan of keeping the road on
one unvarying inclined plane, tries the patience to an extraordinary
degree, but the work is admirably executed. In the whole of these last
eight miles there is not one house on the road side, though several neat
villas are scattered amongst the ravines below it, on drawing near
Malaga.
This difficult passage through the Serranía has been effected only at an
enormous cost of money and labour; but, as a work of art, it ranks with
any of the splendid roads lately made across the Alps. The scenery along
it, especially after gaining the southern side of the principal
mountain-chain, when the Mediterranean is brought to view, surpasses any
thing that is to be met with in those more celebrated, because more
frequented, cloud-capped regions.
Another very fine road has been opened through the mountains between
Malaga and Antequera. The scenery along this is very grand, though
inferior to that just described. The distance between the two places is
about twenty-eight miles, reckoned eight leagues. The road is conducted
along the valley of Rio Gordo, or Campanillos; and, it is alleged,
through some private influence was made unnecessarily circuitous, to
visit the Venta de Galvez. This, and two other ventas, are almost the
only habitations on the road. About four miles from Antequera, the road
reaches the summit of the great mountain-ridge that pens in the
Guadaljorce, which falls very rapidly on its northern side.
Antequera is situated near the foot of the mountain, but in a hollow
formed by a swelling hill, which, detached from the chain of sierra,
shelters it to the north. It is a large, well-built, and populous city,
contains twenty religious houses, numerous manufactories of linen and
woollen cloths, silks, serges, &c., and 40,000 souls.
An old castle, situated on a conical knoll, overlooks the city to the
east. It formerly contained a valuable collection of ancient armour, but
the greater part has been removed.
The city of _Anticaria_ is mentioned in the Itinerary of Antoninus; but,
as no notice is taken of it by Pliny, it probably was known in his day
by some other name. Some antiquaries have imagined Antequera to be
Singilia; but this is very improbable, as it is nearly four leagues
distant from the Singilis (Genil).
Even the Guadaljorce does not approach within a mile of the city, which
depends upon its fountains for water; for though a fine rivulet flows
down from the mountains at the back of the city, washing the eastern
base of the castle hill, and sweeping round to the westward, where it
unites with the Guadaljorce, yet it merely serves to render the valley
fruitful, and to turn the wheels of the mills which supply the city with
flour and oil.
At a league north-east from Antequera a lofty conical mountain,
distinguished by the romantic name of _El Peñon de los Enamorados_ (Rock
of the Lovers), rises from the plain; and a league beyond it is the town
of Archidona, on the great road from Granada to Seville.