Many of the Buddhist temples are very ancient and wealthy
establishments. Although ancestral worship is the chief idolatry of
the masses in China, the Buddhists, by incorporating this superstition
into their own heathen rites have gained almost unlimited power over
the people. What makes this fact the more remarkable is, that, aside
from this worship of Manes, the Chinese are said to care but little
for the Buddhist faith, or for their temples. Only the priests and
nuns, however, are called Buddhists,--the first of which are very
numerous, and have great influence among all classes. Dr. Williams
remarks that “the demonology of the Buddhists allows the incorporation
of the deities and spirits of other religions; and goes even further,
in permitting the priests to worship the gods of other pantheons,
so that they could adapt themselves to the popular superstitions of
the countries they went to, and engraft all the foreign spirits into
theirs.” We had an exemplification of the truth of this at the Temple
of the “Five Hundred Gods,” which was one of the most remarkable places
that we visited in the western suburbs. The entrance to this temple
was guarded by soldiers, but we were readily admitted, and passing on,
were led to a veranda bordering the refectory, where the bonzes were at
their mid-day meal. Leaving this apartment and entering the cloister,
we made our way through several long passages, until we reached the
great hall containing the gods.
The eye of the visitor, on entering this hall, is first greeted by two
gigantic gilded wooden images elevated on high pedestals, and placed
one on each side of the door. They are fat and jolly in appearance,
and, sitting in a half reclining posture, are playing with little
children. The merrily genial and gay physiognomy of one of them
reminded us of Hackett’s Falstaff, and his laughing face was quite as
irresistible. Merry little children, in all kinds of baby attitudes,
were sitting upon his knees, and also standing upon his feet and
arms, or climbing upon his shoulders. Some of them were pointing,
or pulling at his hair, eyes, and mouth; seemingly intent, in every
conceivable manner, upon getting all the fun they could out of the old
fellow, who appeared to be the happiest,--not of gods,--but mortals.
To be childless is regarded by the Chinese as the greatest of all
misfortunes; and these gods were doubtless intended to set forth the
happiness of a parent. This large apartment was nearly filled with
images, all of which were not only well kept, but as brilliant as gilt,
paint, and bronze could make them. They were placed on shelves eight
or ten feet in height, and arranged in a sitting posture, facing each
other, with long passages between. They were represented in a variety
of attitudes,--often with uplifted arms,--while some had six or eight
arms, and one we observed with five eyes. Beyond these rows of idols,
seated under a rich canopy, were large images of the Past, Present, and
Future Buddha; and a little in front, in a sitting posture, there was
a statue of Kien-lung, the Emperor, whom Lord Amherst saw at Peking.
He was here represented gorgeous in gilt and paint, and arrayed in his
royal robes. This temple contains representations of nearly, if not
all, the heathen deities of the East, and painfully impresses one with
a sense of the moral darkness and gross superstition of the people. It
deserves to be called the Pantheon of Canton.
The abbots of the Buddhist monasteries are not often seen, and
rarely honor visitors with any particular civility. At the Temple of
Longevity, however, the names of the gentlemen of our party being sent
in, the abbot made his appearance in the reception-room, and treated
us with distinguished attention. This room was furnished with chairs
and sundry little tables, and opened upon a lovely garden, well
supplied with trees, shrubs, and plants, and otherwise beautified with
little artificial ponds, zigzag bridges, cascades, grottoes, and other
rock-work. The space occupied by it was small; but we were assured that
it was the handsomest garden in the city. A cup of tea of exquisite
flavor, together with some delicious dried and confectioned fruits were
served; while the abbot--who was a man of gentle address and quiet
manners--condescended to join us in our repast, while, at the same
time, he held some conversation with Mr. G----.
One of the idols of this temple was a gigantic reclining image of
Noah, who, with dimpled cheeks and laughing eyes, may perhaps have
been intended to represent a happy old age. Beyond this, in a dimly
lighted place, were three large, dusky, and neglected looking images,
representing the men, or superhuman beings, who, as the Chinese say,
held up the ark at the time of the Deluge.
The largest Buddhist temple in Canton--as well as one of the oldest
and most noted in China--is the _Hai-chwang-sz_, usually called by
foreigners the Honam Joss House. It is situated near the river in the
suburb of Honam; and the grounds, which contain several acres, are
surrounded by a wall. The courts of the temple--as well as the avenue
leading from the outer gate--are shaded with hoary banians, and the
air is resonant with the cawing of the numerous rooks which have
their nests in the wide-spreading branches. In order to be present at
Vespers, we visited this temple at five o’clock in the evening, and,
landing from our boat, entered the enclosure at the outer gateway,
which opens on the street bordering the river. Traversing the gravelled
walk to the high portico,--which is guarded by two frightful looking
demons,--and passing through a small enclosure to a porch containing
four great statues, we were conducted to the main temple, which is a
low building, about one hundred feet square,--in the centre of which
there are seated images of the Past, Present, and Future Buddha. These
were more than twenty feet in height, and were surrounded by altars and
smaller idols.
The evening worship had just commenced as we reached the door of this
grand presence-chamber. Here we found a large number of priests,--some
in full canonicals,--who were marching in single file around the
idols, and chanting in a drawling and nasal tone of voice their
idolatrous invocations, accompanied by a sort of drum, tom-toms, and
the occasional ringing of a bell. The officiating priests were arrayed
in yellow, but most of the rest were in flowing gray robes. We observed
one who had not performed the _tonsure_ in a long time, and whose
clothing was also old and much patched; but we afterwards learned that
an old garb and an unshaven head were the perscribed mourning of the
Buddhist monasteries. Towards the close of the worship, a few at a
time, on passing before the idols, stepped out of the ranks and fell on
their knees before them, until finally all were prostrate. The priest
playing the tom-tom knelt upon a low stool, and bowed himself close at
the base of the centre idol; but the increased vigor with which he used
the instrument, together with the beating of the drum and the ringing
of the bell, rendered it impossible to hear the chanting. Finally, in
the midst of this noise, bowing themselves three times, and touching
their foreheads each time to the floor, they all performed the _kotau_,
and thus ended their adorations.
Although the bonzes, with clasped hands and downcast eyes, assumed the
most devout attitudes, and chanted their vespers in most imploring
accents, still many of them were more intent upon looking at their
visitors, and appeared to be more interested in them than in their
evening orisons. Nor could we observe any appearance of real solemnity
in the officiating priests, who, on rising from their knees, and while
taking off their yellow robes and other trappings, fell right merrily
to chatting and laughing. Most of the invocation consisted of a
repetition of the words, “_Omito fuh_,” (_Amida Buddha_,) or, “Buddha,
have mercy upon us;” which reminded us of the words of our Saviour.
(Matt. vi. 7.)
In another building beyond the grand presence-chamber of Buddha, a
marble monument is erected to the Goddess of Mercy, in which there
is said to be a relic of Buddha.[27] A twisted pagoda-like shaft
surmounts a pedestal of extraordinary massiveness, upon which the
goddess is sculptured. We were told by one of the priests that this
monument--which is more like the workmanship of India than China--was
brought from Siam. Tablets, commemorative of those who have given
to the temple, are set up at various points in the cloisters of all
the monasteries dedicated to the worship of Buddha. Tablets, also,
containing apothegms from Confucius, are set into the walls bordering
this cloister; and here may be seen the “sacred hogs,” which, having
been presented as offerings by some of the worshippers, have an
apartment appropriated to them, where they are kept and cared for as
long as they live.
After death the remains of the priests are disposed of by cremation.
The bodies are burned in a little stone-building, put up expressly for
this purpose in the cemetery which adjoins the garden. In a line with
the arched doorway of this building there is a grave-like excavation
of about a foot in depth, where the fire is made; and an iron grate to
receive the body is placed two or three feet above it. Small orifices
in the back wall, together with the doorway, answer for the escape of
the smoke; and the blackened wall and roof, directly over the arch,
gave evidence that the building had been much used. The ashes of the
dead having been deposited in earthen jars, are placed in another small
building within the grounds; and if not taken by relatives, after
a reasonable length of time, to be buried among their kindred, are
finally interred in the cemetery.
In visiting the Buddhist temples, we observed that the ground and
buildings, with all their belongings, were kept in remarkably neat
order; which, together with their ample arrangements for tropical
comfort, made them invitingly cool retreats. The idolatrous worship
at this temple, together with the sickening accessories met with at
the place of burial, were profoundly saddening; and we could not
but wonder how any American or European reared within the pale of
Protestant Christendom could, after witnessing such scenes, be at all
at loss as to the Christian’s duty in sustaining foreign missions in
China. Although the light of Divine truth has as yet illumined but
comparatively few heathen hearts in that land, still its teachings are
slowly but surely bringing forth fruit, and the way is gradually being
prepared for the full reception of the Gospel. No Christian, even with
the most limited knowledge of the heathen character, can be personally
conversant with the American and European mission stations in Southern
China, without being surprised at what has already been accomplished.
Among the different denominations of Christians in heathen lands
sectarianism is happily forgotten; and the delightful fraternization,
which is a distinguishing feature of their little communities, savors
of the true Gospel spirit.
The English Methodist missionaries at Canton have a large chapel and
very comfortable dwellings, which were erected out of a fund bequeathed
to the Church expressly for this purpose by some friends in England.
From what we could learn, there is also a generous provision made for
them by the society under whose patronage they are sent out. As to the
American missions, we have frequently heard our countrymen in China
remark that the salaries allowed them were not sufficient for their
support, and that, consequently, they were obliged to economize more
closely than was conducive either to health or comfort in such an
exhausting climate. They are, however, too heartily engaged in their
noble work ever to complain; and are always cheerfully contented, and
happy to make any sacrifice in their Master’s service.
While living at Whampoa my attention was attracted one morning by
hearing the voices of children singing Sunday-school hymns. At first I
doubted whether I might not be mistaken, for it seemed incredible that
the sweet tones of so many childish voices could ever be heard, amid
our heathenish surroundings, singing the same notes that are set to
the little hymns found in the “Sabbath Bell,” and other Sunday-school
hymn-books. I was, however, soon relieved from my perplexity by the
entrance of Mr. W----, from whom I learned that the singing proceeded
from a Hong-boat, in which were Mr. and Mrs. Bonney,[28] together
with the boys belonging to the school of the former. After they had
visited the Bethel “chop,” we had the pleasure of seeing them moored
at our side, and entering the boat, heard the boys sing more of those
agreeable home-strains, with which our ears had been so unexpectedly
greeted. The hymns were the same that we had heard sung by the “little
ones at home;” but when translated into the Chinese language, and sung
in that far-off land by those boys of benighted parents, they were
all the more sweet and touching. An American gentleman,--a resident
of Canton,--having recently visited the school, proposed this holiday
excursion, and paid the expenses of the trip. It was a remarkable
affair for the little fellows, whose thorough enjoyment, together with
the high degree of gratification which their happiness gave Mr. Bonney,
must have more than repaid our countryman for his kind and thoughtful
generosity.
Mrs. Bonney has also a school composed of twelve or fourteen Chinese
girls, most of whom have touching little histories. One of them,
who is now capable of assisting in caring for the younger girls,
was originally sold for ten dollars, to be a servant-maid. She was
redeemed, however, by an English lady, and given to Mrs. Bonney to
educate. Another had been cast out from her home into the street
on account of a lameness caused by cruel treatment, which had
incapacitated her from doing much house-work. There was one, also,
who had been sold by a wretchedly poor father for _five dollars_, but
was redeemed by a Chinese woman, who had placed her with Mrs. Bonney
for eight years. And still another, from Macao, whose mother--a poor
widow--had wished to sell her for thirty dollars, but Mrs. Bonney would
not permit it.
The names of these girls were very significant on being translated
into English:--such as Miss _Wealth_, Miss _Summer_, Miss _Have_,
Miss _Thoughtful_, &c. Mrs. Bonney keeps a Chinese female assistant,
and the girls (who are taught in their own language) receive a useful
and Christian education. In addition to their daily studies, they are
also thoroughly instructed in the use of the needle and other womanly
employments. Some of these children are supported by religious and
benevolent women at home; and I could wish that many more of our
countrywomen might be induced to become the patrons of this interesting
and important branch of the missionary work. The other Mission schools,
under the care of both American and English missionaries in Canton, are
also assisting to advance the cause of Christian education, but I did
not become as conversant with them as with the schools of Mr. and Mrs.
Bonney.
To the Chinese nothing is more awe-inspiring, august, and powerful
than their fabulous animal, the _lung_, or dragon. This is doubtless
principally owing to the fact of its being adopted as the Imperial
coat-of-arms; although, even aside from this, it is said to be more
or less superstitiously regarded by all classes, and is peculiarly
feared and worshipped by both boatmen and fishermen, who consider
it the ruling spirit of the waters. A festival to propitiate this
divinity--or demon of the ocean and rivers--is observed for five days,
in the month of May, and is called the “Feast of the Dragon-boats.”
The chief feature in this festival is the racing of the Dragon-boats
belonging to the different villages. These boats are about one hundred
feet in length by only thirty-two inches in width, terminating in a
point at either end. They are brilliantly painted, and have their
bows ornamented with dragons. Each boat is bedecked with flags
and gay streamers, and contains sixty or eighty men, who, sitting
quietly, paddle their craft to the time produced by the rude music
of gongs, drums, and the jingling of copper pans; the boats, when
under full headway, being in appearance not unlike huge centipedes
in motion. While witnessing these races on the Pearl River, both at
Whampoa and Canton, I observed that the time of the music and the
speed of the boats were always _pari passu_. A man standing near the
helm was constantly waving a fancy flag; while two men, who played a
drum elevated in the middle of the boat, led the band. As the speed
of the boat and the din of the music culminated, the excitement of
the musicians exhibited itself in various antics and gestures. In
consequence of the very slight construction of these boats many lives
are sometimes lost by their breaking in two.
The private gardens of Howqua and Pun-Tingqua--located a mile or two
up the river from Canton--are much visited by foreigners. Both are
enclosed by high walls; and although the garden of Howqua is not as
well kept as formerly, it has spacious walks, pretty sheets of water,
fine trees and plants, and altogether must have been a charming place
when the avenues, ornamented buildings, and little bridges were in
good order. We found the garden of Pun-Tingqua, on the contrary, not
only well kept, but in a state of further improvement. One of the
first things which strikes the eye on entering this garden is the
handsomely covered walk bordering the walls. The grounds, however, are
everywhere intersected with pleasant walks,--one of which, separating
two artificial ponds, is bordered with fir-trees of a beautifully
delicate foliage. A large house, standing within this garden, is the
summer retreat of Pun-Tingqua’s family, and the private theatre of
that gentleman is also in the same building. These extensive grounds
included every variety of ornament usually found in Chinese gardens.
There were pretty kiosks, grottoes, and fancy bridges, besides a
handsome pagoda of three stories, from the upper windows of which the
_coup d’œil_ of the whole was charmingly picturesque.
The _Fa-ti_, or Flower-gardens,--from which foreigners at Canton
are supplied with the pots of rare plants that always adorn their
verandas,--are also situated on the river above the city. In these
gardens we observed some very lofty palms, and there was also a
superabundance of other trees and shrubs, which seemed to be growing
in all the wild exuberance of nature. Here, and also at the garden of
Pun-Tingqua, a lovely orchid, called “the nun,” was in blossom. In
addition to the dwarfed trees and shrubs found in every Chinese garden,
both at the Fa-ti and at the garden of Howqua, we noticed a small
shrub, of a close, full, and delicate foliage, trimmed so as to form
flower-baskets of elegant patterns. Animals, also, were delineated in
the same manner, among which we observed many accurate representations
of dogs and miniature giraffes.
Most of the shops in Canton are so constructed that their fronts can
be removed during the day, thus giving the passer-by a good view of
the interior. At one side of the entrance there is usually a little
shrine containing some tablet or image, where incense is burned every
day to supplicate a lucrative business. At some of the more wealthy
and handsome shops, shrines, fancifully ornamented, are set up within
the establishment, and these are not unfrequently embellished with
vases of flowers. The Chinese--who have a superstitious notion that
the blossoming of the peach-tree, at the time of their New-Year
festival, betokens good luck and prosperity for the coming year--have
a way of forcing that tree to bloom for the occasion. When making my
first visit to Canton, I was shown, at the shop of Hoaching,--of whom
I shall have more to say when speaking of shopkeepers,--a large branch
of a peach-tree, which, having passed through the forcing process, was
brilliant with flowers.
The shops at which foreigners make their purchases of china, lacquered
ware, and articles carved in ivory and black-wood, are in the New City
and its environs. A Chinaman is exceedingly clever at a bargain, and
being quite as fond of money as an Anglo-Saxon, is no less quick to
note and take advantage of every opportunity that may offer to increase
his gains. During the occupation of Canton by the Allies, the artisans
and dealers found their wares in such great demand by the foreign
officers and others that there was a general rise in the old prices;
and as these still continued at their advanced rates, many of the most
desirable articles were more expensive than formerly,--fine china-ware,
at the time of our visit, being nearly as costly as the French article
was in New York before the war. Besides this, many of the china-ware
manufactories in the interior have been destroyed by the rebels, and
it is more difficult for the dealers in Canton to obtain their usual
supplies. Indeed, some articles formerly found at the shops are now not
to be procured at all; and this has doubtless tended, more or less,
to increase the price of all articles. A very curious, but handsome
ware, called “open-work-china,” was formerly made in the northern part
of the Kwang-tung province,--of which Canton is the chief city. The
rebels, however, have overrun and laid waste the country; and those
who understood manufacturing this ware having passed away, the art is
now said to be lost. This china is greatly in request, but is rarely
found for sale. We saw only a few pieces of it, and these belonged to
foreigners, who preserved them as curiosities.
Ushing’s is a fine and extensive shop in the New City, where elegant
china-ware,--comprising articles of every description,--and also
furniture of curious, as well as beautiful patterns, elaborately carved
in black-wood, are kept for sale. The prices of the most desirable
articles range at very high figures; but they are so rare, and not
unfrequently so superbly beautiful, that the shop is much patronized
by wealthy foreigners. The patrons of this establishment are waited
upon with much politeness; being usually met, on passing from the
ante-room into the shop, by the portly Ushing himself, who, handsomely
dressed in silk fabrics, approaches his customers, and, in spite of his
obesity, greets them with sundry profound bows while leading them to
the side and upper apartments, where there is a tempting display of his
wares. Another shop much frequented by foreigners is kept by Pohing,
who deals entirely in china, and has many beautiful things at less
prices than Ushing. Pohing, however, is a noisy, curt, and blustering
man, without the smooth polish and _savoir-vivre_ that distinguishes
Ushing,--his chief recommendation being, that those who possess purses
of only a moderate depth can obtain many of the same kind of articles,
and of as good quality, of him, as can be procured at Ushing’s, and on
far more reasonable terms.
The matchless skill displayed by Chinese artists in the workmanship of
ivory is well known, and the exquisite minuteness of their carvings
in that material is unrivalled. Hoaching--whose shop in the suburbs
of Honam is filled with beautiful carved work in ivory, sandal-wood,
and shell--is said to excel all others in the artistic finish of his
articles. Foreign visitors to this shop always find something rare
and curious to study. Once when there our attention was directed to
some remarkable ornaments elegantly carved from the skull of a bird
belonging to the egret species. It is a native of Cochin-China. We were
shown the head of one from which pieces had been cut for carving. The
bone, which is of a very fine and ivory-like texture, admits of being
carved into the most minute representations of flowers and foliage,
as well as of temples and people. It is of a delicate, but peculiarly
rich, orange color, sometimes slightly veined with red; and the
ornaments, when handsomely set in gold, are superbly unique.
The wealthy Chinese have a passion for fine carvings. We were shown,
at Hoaching’s, a superb piece in ivory, which had been ordered by a
Chinese gentleman at the cost of five hundred dollars. It was a mass
of elaborate and exquisite carvings, representing men, animals, birds,
and scenery. The article itself was of a peculiar design, and, from
what we could learn, was intended to ornament the shrine of a household
god, or, perhaps, the ancestral hall. Temples--and their never-failing
adjuncts, the sacred banians--embellish most of these carvings, and the
latter are remarkably well given.
The cultivated Chinese greatly admire antiques, and highly value an old
piece of curious china, an antique bronze, or a rare carving. It is
said that no city in the empire has more of the antique, the rare, the
curious, and the grotesque, to interest a foreigner, than Canton,--the
shops of Curio Street, in the New City, being mostly occupied by
dealers in such articles. Some of these shops are large, and well
filled with articles of rare and handsome workmanship. At any of them
one can soon invest a thousand dollars in elegant pieces of furniture,
rich carvings, and other valuable works of _vertu_ and art. Many of the
articles in bronze, however, are too ugly or too disagreeably grotesque
to tempt a foreigner. The studio of the noted painter, Lamqua, and the
shop of “Old Siqua,”--whose lacquered ware is considered the finest
in Canton,--are also in the Honam suburbs. Lamqua is an artist of
much talent; and having profited by the instruction of Chinery,--the
Anglo-Eastern artist already mentioned,--his pictures are free from the
gross inaccuracies in perspective, and many other points that usually
mar the sketches and paintings of his countrymen. He is noted for his
fine fruit-pieces, and I also observed in his studio some very good
pictures of foreigners. His finely painted miniatures, copied from
photographs, and done on ivory, are also excellent.
The Chinese women are very fond of ornaments made of the
“jade-stone.”[29] Vases, also, and other fancy articles manufactured
from it, are highly prized, and sold to the wealthy at fabulous prices.
A daily market expressly for the sale of this article, which is located
in the western suburbs, is regulated by certain laws, one of which
requires it to be closed at twelve in the morning.
Judging from the extent of the street occupied by the artificers in
fans, and the infinite variety of that article exposed everywhere for
sale, China is very properly called the “land of fans.” No people,
however, need them more; and nearly every city manufactures its own
style of the article; hence there are Peking fans, Canton and Swatow
fans, besides many others. Those, however, that are made at Suchau,--a
city situated on the Yellow River, in the province of Kiangsu,--being
either very tastefully and delicately painted, or elegantly finished in
black and gold, are much in request. In fact, at one time these fans
were so much the mode among the higher classes of the Chinese, that,
for one to say that his fan was from Suchau, made the same impression
as for us to speak of an article imported from Paris. Suchau is also
noted for its dark, bronze-colored, lacquered ware, prettily ornamented
with etchings of birds, trees, and flowers, the outlines of which are
touched or finished in gilt. The rebels, however, have nearly destroyed
the city, and both the Suchau fans and lacquered ware having become
scarce,--except at some of the shops on Curio Street, where they
command a very high price,--they are now rarely met with.
Canton is said to rank next to Peking in wealth, and no one can visit
either the New, or the Old City without being impressed with the
opulent appearance of a great portion of the people; for although
beggars of the poorest and most wretched class are met everywhere, many
of the streets are thronged with Chinese gentlemen, who, walking or
in chairs, are arrayed in garbs of the most expensive silks. A large
number of streets are also lined with spacious and handsome shops,
which are filled with the richest fabrics of the East. In passing
through some of these streets the extensive view afforded in either
direction, with the moving crowds, brilliant signs, and other gorgeous
adornments, is very picturesque, and to a traveller from the Occident
has an air of enchantment about it, which is almost a realization of
the tales of the Genii of old.
FOOTNOTES:
[27] Said to be one of his toe-nails.
[28] Missionaries of the American Board at Canton.
[29] An imitation of jade, or serpentine, of a vitreous composition
between glass and porcelain, and of a cloudy-green color, is
manufactured into ornaments that are much worn by the lower classes.