While living at Whampoa we went often to Canton, passing, altogether,
a month there in visiting friends, and places of interest. Steamers
carrying passengers and freight were despatched every alternate day
from Hong Kong and Macao, to Canton,--running up and down the estuary
and river; but although these boats always stopped at Whampoa, my
first sail up the river to the “City of Genii”--as an old legend terms
it--was made in a sanpan, which was rowed by three Chinese boatmen, and
sculled by a woman.
It was a clear and balmy morning in February,--the weather being more
like one of our cool and perfect summer days at home, when one always
feels the appositeness of Herbert’s lines:--
“Sweet day, so cool, so clear, so bright,
The bridal of the earth and sky.”
The New-Year festival had closed the day previous, but the Chinese
vessels and boats were still bedecked with their holiday trappings.
The newly painted junks with their butterfly sails, fancy streamers,
and red flags, made quite a gay appearance, and together with the
passenger-boats, cargo-boats, and sanpans,--from which were also
fluttering bright flags, streamers, and red papers,--produced a scene
at once unique and brilliant.
The land, on both sides of the river, which is low, is mostly used for
the cultivation of rice; and husbandmen, with their rude ploughs drawn
by buffalo oxen, were already preparing the soil to receive the seed.
The plantain, with its long, heavy clusters of ripening fruit, was
growing in great luxuriance upon the borders of the stream.
We had scarcely passed the pagoda in the neighborhood of Old Whampoa,
and the towering one of nine stories on Lob Creek, when the Barrier
pagoda came full in view. These tall structures, shooting up at
different points in a landscape of low, flat country, not only relieve
the monotonous sameness of the picture, but greatly embellish the
scene. Here we also passed the ruins of the Barrier Forts that were
destroyed by our lamented Commodore Foote. We observed while in
China that the name of no American naval commander was as frequently
mentioned as that of this officer; the most casual allusion to him
always bringing forth an eulogium upon his gentlemanly and consistent
Christian character, as well as upon his skill and fine judgment as
an officer. Above these ruins we met a two-masted vessel of some
petty Mandarin. Both wind and tide being against her, she was towed
by Coolies, who ran along the river’s bank,--like horses towing a
canalboat,--while pulling at the line of rope that was fastened to
her. Near this scene an Imperial fleet of four men-of-war and eight
gun-boats were lying at anchor. These were newly painted vessels, and
although an occasional line of black and white relieved the garish
brilliancy of the red, the latter was the prevailing color. This fleet
was part of a naval force which was mustering at Canton, and were to
be sent North to fight the rebels. For some months it made Canton its
rendezvous, and finally numbered sixty vessels of war, besides a large
flotilla of covered boats for soldiers. On the 27th of July following,
however, when nearly ready to proceed North, it was dispersed and
destroyed by one of the most terrible typhoons that ever visited
Southern China. The men-of-war were huge junks, with monstrously fierce
eyes--such as the Chinese always give their Imperial dragon--painted
upon their prows. They were undoubtedly designed to strike the natives
with awe; and their wildly grotesque and terrible appearance was
admirably adapted for that purpose.
The appearance of Canton, as approached by the river, is low, squalid,
and uninviting. The most conspicuous objects are the watch-towers upon
the city walls, and the pagodas, which tower above all other buildings.
The houses are mostly of one story, and stretch along the river for
more than four miles. Those built nearest the water rest on piles which
are driven into the sand; and these, with the lower parts of the city,
are subject to inundations. Far out into the river, and along the
banks, the water was nearly covered with boats of various colors and
sizes. The largest and most conspicuous were the Flower and Mandarin
boats,--these being, as a general thing, highly ornamented with
carvings and gildings, and, being painted in brilliant colors, made a
very showy appearance. There was also a long and narrow little craft
called the Snake-boat, which is much used in towing larger vessels when
they have to stem the tide. Near the city we passed one of these having
a Mandarin-boat in tow.
Some of the foreigners at Canton have a pleasure-boat called the
_Matrimonial_, which, luxurious in its appointments, is finely arranged
to meet the necessities of a warm climate. Our countryman, Mr. G----,
the Commissioner of the Imperial Customs, had one of these, which he
kindly placed at our disposal whenever we were in the city; and all
our boating, when visiting the places of interest upon the river, was
done in it. The spacious cabin, which was furnished with divans and
pillows, was also enclosed with Venetian blinds, which were so arranged
as to be readily removed if the sun was obscured, or when at evening we
visited the Macao Passage, in order to enjoy the cooling influence of
the southwest monsoon.
In the middle of the river, nearly where the boat-life is the most
animated, there is a little green island, called by the Chinese
“Eastern Sea-fish Pearl,” but by foreigners “Dutch Folly,”--which, with
its fine old trees, and few oddly fantastic Chinese buildings, adds
greatly to the picture of busy life.
Before the bombardment of Canton by the Allies, the business hongs and
homes of the foreign merchants, called the “Factories,” were in the
western suburb. These being situated on the river had an airy location,
which afforded a cool and agreeable residence to Europeans. Since
the destruction of these factories, however, the merchants have had
their hongs at Honam. This is an island which lies directly opposite
the city, and forms one of its extensive suburbs. Foreigners have
now a more desirable place for building than that formerly occupied
by them in the western suburbs. For this purpose a large portion of
ground, also situated on the river, but farther up the stream than the
factories, was ceded to the Allies in the last treaty of peace made
between them and the Imperial Government. Along its border, facing the
river, a high sea-wall has been built, and the whole area prepared for
the erection of buildings. The place is called “_Shameen_,” or “new
sand,” “beach face;” and being situated opposite the fork of the river
that forms the Macao Passage, it is one of the most airy and desirable
localities for foreigners in Canton. This passage is formed by the
branching of the river at a point nearly opposite the Shameen. Here a
large portion of the water from the rivers of the North (which flow
in a southerly direction) passes around the island of Honam. A great
part of this water, however, again joins the Pearl River near Whampoa;
while the remainder, continuing to flow south, enters the great Delta
nearer the sea. During the summer months the southwest monsoon blows
with refreshing coolness up this passage, which renders it the favorite
resort of foreigners, who in their boats seek the middle of the stream,
where, lying on their oars, they enjoy the delicious and gratefully
invigorating air. When we were at Canton in the spring of 1862, very
few dwellings had been erected on the Shameen. Large bungalows,
however, with thatched roofs, and neatly covered verandas, had been
put up by some of the merchants as temporary summer retreats from the
stifling heat of their hongs at Honam.
“The earliest notices of the city of Canton date back two centuries
before Christ; but traders were doubtless located here prior to that
time. It grew in importance as the country became better settled, and
in A. D. 700, a regular market was opened, and a collector of customs
appointed. When the Manchus overran the country, this city resisted
their utmost efforts to reduce it for the space of eleven months, and
even then was only carried by treachery. Martini says that 100,000 men
were killed during this siege,--the whole number who lost their lives
while the city was invested being 700,000, if the native accounts are
trustworthy. Since then it has been rebuilt, and has increased in
prosperity, until it is regarded as the fourth city in the Empire in
point of numbers.”[21]
“The foundations of the city walls are of sandstone, and their upper
part brick. They are about twenty feet thick, and from twenty-five
to forty feet high, having an esplanade on the inside, and pathways
leading to the ramparts on three sides. That part of the city within
the walls is about six miles in circumference; and its whole circuit,
including the suburbs, is ten miles. The streets are narrow, and well
paved with stone. Both the land and water population, as computed by
the most reliable data, is about 1,000,000.”[22]
The chair-Coolies of Canton are said to be among the best in China.
They are very strong, and from much practice acquire a carriage which
gives a delightfully equal motion to the chair. They doubtless have
learned this from being obliged to carry their own people with care;
for if a disagreeable motion is given to the chair of a Chinese
gentleman, or lady, the bearer will be sure to receive a reprimand.
These men being remarkably fleet of foot, pass rapidly over the ground,
and seem to prefer a brisk dog-trot pace to a fast walk. They usually
wear a sandal made of strong grass, and with a gait peculiarly their
own, touch the pavement with a nervously strong and firm tread.
Several of the American Missionaries live in the suburb called _Sun
Sha_, which is nearly opposite the south gate of the city, and
occupying houses that front on the river, they have the benefit
of the refreshing summer breeze. The hospital connected with the
Mission--which was formerly in the charge of Dr. Parker--is also
located there, and is now under the management of Dr. Kerr. A Mission
station, and a branch of this hospital, have also been established
at Fatshan,--a town on the river, ten or fifteen miles west of
Canton,--where the silk fabrics, matting, and most of the other
articles exported from Canton are manufactured. This hospital is also
under Dr. Kerr’s care, who devotes a certain portion of his time in
personal attention to the patients. We were indebted to the kind
politeness of this gentleman--who speaks the language, and is familiar
with the temples, as well as other places of interest--for most of the
enjoyment of our first excursion in looking after the “lions” of Old
Canton.
One morning early in March, taking sedan-chairs, with Dr. Kerr in
advance, we left the Missionary quarters, and traversing several
narrow streets,--among which was that occupied by the butchers and
bakers,--finally entered a comparatively broad and quiet street in the
New City, where the residences of the Chinese officials were situated.
This brought us to the _Wan-shau-kung_, or Imperial Presence Hall,
where, three days before, and three days after the Emperor’s birthday,
the high officials and people come to drink tea, and pay adoration to
his Majesty.
The dragon,--that never-failing insignia of rank and grandeur in
China,--together with the royal color, yellow, were conspicuous in all
the embellishments of the establishment. This is the only building
in Canton that is roofed with yellow tile. Here a large tablet is
erected to the Emperor, upon which the expression,--“The Emperor of
ten thousand years; ten thousand times ten thousand years,” are traced
in Chinese characters. The characters for “ten thousand years” also
appear upon some of the pillars sustaining the presence-chamber, and
upon every panel of the low stone fence enclosing the temple. These
expressions are doubtless designed to teach the people that their
Emperor is an infinite superior,--a sort of deity, and an object worthy
of adoration. Guarding the people’s entrance to this temple were two
rampant lions--frightful burlesques--sculptured in stone. Our bearers
threaded the narrow and crowded streets with perfect ease. The confused
bustle, however, together with the noise of our own chair-Coolies,
calling out “_Lai! Lai!_” or, clear the way, combined with that of the
hundreds of other Chinamen, who in one unbroken stream were passing and
repassing us, was in some degree fearful, and well-nigh deafening.
As we passed on in the midst of these surroundings, we finally entered
one of the gates of the Old City, and threading a long street occupied
by stone-cutters, reached a Confucian temple, sacred to the Goddess
of Literature. The idols of this temple consist of simple tablets
dedicated to Confucius, and other sages. Highly ornamented ones, also,
of very large size, and brilliantly painted,--having been presented
to the temple by different emperors,--were suspended above those of
the sages. No tablets of the latter,--not even that of Confucius,--can
receive equal honor and adoration with that of the Emperor. At each
side of these, on tables or small altars, were arranged smaller tablets
of the disciples of Confucius. The handsome roof of this temple--which
had the appearance of being groined--was painted in a dark rich brown
and deep red, reminding us of the fretted Gothic style.
The entrance to the Temple of Mars--which we next visited--was guarded
by fierce-looking lions; and being in mourning for the Emperor, Heen
Fung, then recently deceased, was draped with white. The floor was
also covered with white calico. Here, when the Emperor dies, the high
officials and military men repair; and for three days--bowing and
prostrating themselves before an empty throne--mourn and bewail the
dead. An appointed _groaner_ leads in these wails and prostrations; and
when the mourners have assumed the attitude of humble grief, a signal
is given, and the yellow silk curtains in front of the throne being
drawn around them, they are left to their sorrow.
Leaving the Temple of Mars, we were carried through several streets
to the southwestern part of the town, where the principal college
is located. This institution is called the _Kung Yuen_, or Hall of
Literary Examination. Students from the different districts of the
province come here for examination, previous to taking their second
literary degree.[23] The establishment is extensive, and has a large,
open space, in which are eight thousand cells, or low compartments,
built of brick, where the candidates for literary honors are confined
while writing their essays. A student on entering his cell is only
allowed to take with him his writing materials and cooking utensils,
and is carefully examined to prevent his secreting any book or
manuscript about his person. These cells are only about five feet
in length, by three or four in width; being built in parallel rows,
and so arranged as to form narrow passages between. The entrance
to each passage is guarded by a small dragon gate, upon which the
name is traced in Chinese characters. The examination hall, and
other apartments fitted up for the use of the examining committees
and official visitors, are ornamented with blue, red, and yellow.
On the long and spacious avenue leading from the street there are
three gates, each opening into a temple; the further one, conducting
directly to the cells, being peculiar both in structure and ornament,
as well as lofty and imposing. The place was much injured at the
bombardment of the city by the Allies, the cells for the students being
at that time destroyed. They have, however, been rebuilt, and the
whole establishment thoroughly repaired, so that it was in very good
condition at the time of our visit.
When going to the eastern gate of the city we traversed a portion of
the fine military road that skirts a part of the north wall. It is
macadamized, and was made by the English, on their first occupation of
the place, for the more convenient carriage of supplies of food and
ammunition to the troops stationed on the heights at the north part of
the town. In order to have a ready communication between these heights
and the city, there was also a line of telegraph wires put up along the
course of this road. The houses in Canton are built close to the walls;
therefore, in making such a road, many of the citizens were compelled
to have their houses removed or torn down. The deep and lofty arch
of the great eastern gate is built with outside bastions, and has a
double gateway. A sort of citadel, in the pagoda style of architecture,
is also built upon the massive walls directly over the arch. At the
time of our visit this citadel was occupied by a small number of
Chinese troops, who, under an officer called a “leader of sixty,” were
stationed there as a guard. From the upper story of this citadel there
is an extensive view of the city, its suburbs, and the surrounding
country.
The Chinese name of the street extending from the east to the west
gate, and passing through the heart of the city, is, when rendered
into English, the “Street of Benevolence and Love.” By the foreigners,
however, it is called East and West Street. As a striking instance
of the “westward march” of the Chinese mind, we observed, in passing
through this street, an advertisement of Dr. Jayne’s medicines posted
in a conspicuous place near a tablet of the sage Confucius. In this
part of the town we visited a Confucian temple, which, _malgré_ its
Chinese architecture and ornament, was really beautiful. It belonged
to the _literati_ of the district or county, and was an educational
establishment or college, where students take their first literary
degree.[24] The buildings are of granite, having ornate roofs covered
with highly glazed green tile.
Near one of the city prisons we met a deplorable-looking prisoner,
who, chained and led by his keeper, presented a fitting introductory
scene to the Temple of Horrors, which we were about to enter. The
open space fronting this temple was mostly occupied by the stalls of
fortune-tellers, gamblers, dealers in incense-paper, beggars, and
crowds of Chinese. In fact, the appearance of the outer court was too
much like Pandemonium to admit of a very close inspection, and I found
myself oppressed with a sensation of fear as my chair was borne through
it. I therefore merely took a hurried glance at the interior of the
apartments where the different tortures of hell were represented. These
were too cruelly shocking, and too painfully suggestive of Dante’s
“Inferno,” to allow of any description. Apartments a little off from
these were devoted to idols, before whom the poor, besotted people were
bowing in worship.
Our transition from this temple of horrid spectacles to the _Yamun_, or
residence of the Imperial Treasurer of the province, was delightfully
refreshing. The avenue leading to this place was bordered with ancient
banians, and in a large park deer were grazing. The grounds, besides
having pretty flower-gardens, were ornamented with arches, rock-work,
and little fancy buildings. Large sculptured lions, of fierce aspect,
stood guard at the outer gate; but the roar of the Chinese lion has
proved itself as deficient in power, as these representations were
defective in truthfully delineating that animal, and we found the
French flag floating above them. The place, although falling to decay,
was like an extensive villa in the heart of a walled city. It was
taken from the Chinese when the Allies entered Canton, and, as “might
makes right,” in accordance with the demands of the French Government,
it fell into their hands. At the time of our visit it was occupied
by Baron Trenqualye, a French official, who, in the very tranquil
enjoyment of the poor treasurer’s usurped abode, was taking his
_siesta_ when we sent in our cards.[25]
At a temple called the Pavilion of the Fire Genii, our attention
was directed to the print of a man’s foot in a rock, which, by the
Buddhists, is called Buddha’s Foot. The Chinese consider this temple
one of the most remarkable “lions” of the city; but we had already seen
so many gilded images that the fantastically arrayed genii of this
pavilion made but little impression upon us.
In alighting from our chair at the Mohammedan mosque,--which is nothing
more than a plain temple,--we were immediately surrounded and pressed
upon by a motley crowd of men, women, and children. The greater part of
them were miserable beggars, and as some were suffering from disease,
as well as poverty, their near neighborhood was not only disagreeable,
but fearful. Giving a hurried glance, therefore, at the interior of
the building, we returned to our chairs, and were borne to the Tartar
portion of the city. There, happy and cheerful-looking women came to
the doors, and smiling, bowed as we passed. The ears of these Tartar
women were pierced in three places, and from every puncture little
hoops of gold or silver wire were pendant.
There is no place in the world where a crowd collects in a shorter time
than in the streets of Canton; and a woman from the West, when looking
after the “lions” of the city, seems to be regarded with quite as much
interest as a whole menagerie of wild animals. Whether at a shop or at
a temple, we were immediately followed by a great crowd, so that it
was not only difficult, but exceedingly disagreeable to move about. At
one of the Confucian temples the students, or _literati_, occupying it
were so eager and curious to see the European woman write her pencilled
notes, that some of them drew near and looked over my shoulder. A
woman educated to write was a _rara avis_ to these civil and scholarly
followers of the wise Confucius. Laughing, however, and chatting very
agreeably with Dr. Kerr, they seemed to regard such an encroachment
upon the sphere, which is almost entirely monopolized by their sex
in China, very good-naturedly. Sometimes, when being carried along
the street, I found it difficult to suppress a smile as the natives,
with staring eyes and mouths agape, peered and gazed at me through the
windows of my chair, or, stretching their necks, essayed to look in at
the door.
I can never forget my first Sunday in Canton, nor with what painful
sadness I passed through the busy streets of the suburbs of Honam, when
on our way to attend service at the English Chapel. It was pitiful to
see the poor shopkeepers, artisans, and laborers toiling and pursuing
their avocations as usual. The streets were filled with the same
restless, noisy, and jostling crowd. There were the open shops, and the
money-changers sitting at the corners of the business thoroughfares,
with piles of copper cash before them. It was a most melancholy
reflection that the people had no Sunday, and knew nothing of its
peaceful and soothing influence.
It is hardly possible to realize the sad condition of heathen people
until one has lived among them. Perhaps this total ignorance and
disregard of the Sabbath, and also of everything growing out of a
Christian civilization, when witnessed among a people like the Chinese,
who, besides being in a great measure civilized and educated, are much
advanced in a knowledge of the arts, and also in the polite amenities
of life, is more prolific of grievous thoughts than when met with among
the untutored savage tribes. The people, however, were well aware that
the day was sacred to the Christian; and a few--among whom I observed
some of the better class of Chinese--were gathered in little groups at
the corner of a street on which the chapel was situated, where they
watched the gathering of the congregation with evident interest.
The marriage processions--which are common in the streets of
Canton--are usually more curious than imposing. They consist of a
display of highly ornamented and gilded sedan-chairs, which are
occupied by the bride, her friends, and also by her _trousseau_ and
presents. These are preceded by a band of music, and followed in the
rear by a number of men and boys wearing short red robes, and carrying
red boxes that contain the marriage feast. If the parties are of high
rank, there is a long procession of people carrying honorary tablets,
flags, fancy lanterns, umbrellas, and various other articles. We,
however, were not fortunate enough to meet any of this class.[26]
Most of the business streets, both of the old and new city, have their
specialties. Besides the streets of the butchers and bakers, we passed
through several devoted to the dealers in fruits and vegetables, the
street of the stone-cutters, a long street occupied by the workers in
iron and brass, and also one made up entirely of cabinet-makers. The
shops of the latter are large, and in many of them we observed that
the mechanics were sawing and preparing their lumber with hand-saws.
In Southern China, where there are neither horses nor machinery to
aid the people in their labors, it is surprising to observe with what
comparative ease and skill they perform their work. A street of old
clothes and second-hand furniture shops, is called, by the foreigners,
the Chatham Street of Canton. Itinerant tailors, cobblers, and barbers
are found, in every part of the city, plying their trades by the
wayside.
Groups of squalid beggars, intent upon the destruction of the animated
nature that infests their miserable garments, are seen crouching at
every vacant spot along the streets, and near the temples of both the
city and its suburbs. Sadly diseased people, also,--some of whom were
suffering from leprosy,--we frequently met near the temples. These, and
kindred scenes, together with the vile odors often encountered, make
many parts of the city the most disagreeably disgusting places in the
world.
Chinese officials are regarded with great deference by the people; and
foreigners also, who are in the service of the Imperial Government, are
treated with much respect. In visiting the places of interest in the
western suburbs, I was escorted by Mr. G---- and Mr. W----, both of
whom belonged to the latter class, and consequently we did not suffer
the usual annoyance from street crowds. Although Mr. G---- --who has,
in another place, been spoken of as Imperial Commissioner of Customs
at Canton--was in some measure acquainted with the language, a Chinese
linguist also accompanied us, and going sometimes in advance to clear
the way, caused a general stampede of all idlers, and prevented any
disagreeable gathering of the people at the places where we stopped.
The gentry of Canton live in the western suburbs, and many of their
residences are on Howqua Street, which is one of the widest and
cleanest in the city. The private residences--which are built of a gray
brick, with walls twenty-five or thirty feet in height--are situated
directly on the street, their fronts presenting no opening except
the door. Many of them cover a large surface,--stretching far along
the street,--and are so constructed as to appear like a series of
small buildings, each of which terminates in an angle or recess. To
form these angles, the wall, which begins plumb to the street-line,
gradually recedes until it reaches a point of perhaps not more than one
or two feet back of its commencement, when it turns, and making a right
angle, is built straight back to the street line; another turn is then
made, and the wall is again carried in the same receding line as at
first; and in this manner the work is continued until the front wall of
the mansion is completed. The Chinese--who are always propitiating some
evil power, or malign influence--believe that these angles will prevent
the escape of “good luck” from the street, and thus shield themselves
and their families from misfortune.
Howqua and Pun-Tingqua--two well-known Chinese gentlemen of influence
and wealth--have their private residences on Howqua Street. The
walls of their dwellings are built like those just described; and
judging from the great extent of front occupied by Pun-Tingqua, his
establishment must be very extensive.
On our way to the western suburbs we passed a large stall at the corner
of one of the streets, where nothing but dog-meat was sold. That
animal, which we observed carefully skinned and dressed, was suspended
and exposed for sale like a lamb at one of our butcher’s shops.
A few streets further on brought us to the cat-market, where the mewing
creatures, well fatted and exhibited in cages, were being purchased
for the table. We had always been rather sceptical in regard to the
assertion that dogs and cats were used as food by the “celestials;” but
having this ocular proof of the fact our incredulity vanished.
FOOTNOTES:
[21] Dr. Williams’s _Middle Kingdom_, Vol. i. p. 130.
[22] Dr. Williams.
[23] This institution is usually called by foreigners the “Provincial
College.”
[24] Called the “District College.”
[25] A street in this neighborhood, entirely occupied by the shops
of booksellers, is called Book Street. Here are met the students and
_literati_, who, like the cultivated and learned men of other lands,
are fond of looking after, and gossiping about, whatever is new and
wonderful in their world of letters.
[26] The respectable Chinese, after having taken a wife according to
the prescribed forms, do not go through the marriage formalities with
another woman during the lifetime of the first. A man, however, may
introduce concubines into his family without any other ceremony than a
contract with their parents; but they and their children are not only
subject to the will of the wife, but serve her.