On the afternoon of the 29th of November, after having passed four
days of terrific heat in full view, if not “amid Afric’s burning
sands,” we were finally coaled, and had the steam up ready for sea,
when our captain discovered, much to his chagrin and disappointment,
that the “red-tape” regulations of this dilapidated, out-of-the-world
colony would not permit him to sail until the next morning. It seems
that the harbor-master,--called by the Portuguese _commandante_,--a
sort of official wearing a military cap with bright buttons, and a
uniform ornamented with gold lace, and having a bearing decidedly of
the Spanish hidalgo style,--would not give the _Poyang_ a clearance
nor pilot us out of the harbor until the next morning, because Captain
Briggs had not informed him twenty-four hours previous, as was the
rule, that he designed sailing that evening. The captain, not being
aware of this necessary preliminary, sent a message to the officer;
and, pleading his want of information on the point as an excuse,
requested him to overlook the unintentional disregard of his port
rules, and to permit him to leave. But the Loando port rules, like
the laws of the Medes and Persians, were not to be altered to suit
our convenience, and we were obliged to succumb to the necessity of
remaining another night in the harbor. Our hearts did not go out
very kindly to this grandiloquent _commandante_, for keeping us one
more night than was necessary in the stifling heat and malaria of
the African coast; and on boarding us the next morning, although our
officers received him with the most reserved civility, it did not
seem to disturb his pride, or to diminish in the least degree his
imperturbable reticence and lordliness, which was well worth the
imitation of the most skilful diplomate. The boat of this dignified
functionary, manned by six stalwart Congo slaves, was towed astern the
vessel as we steamed out of the harbor; and although we moved slowly,
still the boat had rough sailing in the swell, and it required no
little skill and strength for her steersman to keep his little craft
afloat. When, however, we began to move more rapidly, it was both
comical and painful to witness the affrighted faces and attitudes of
our swarthy friends in the boat; nor less ludicrously serious were
their beseeching tones, as again and again they cried out “Capitan!
Capitan!” There was one poor fellow, in particular, who did not regain
his composure until long after his master, the “Capitan,” had spoken to
him from the quarter-deck of the vessel, reassuring him of his safety.
The boat and paddles were painted white, and the Congos were also
neatly dressed in white, with little white linen caps upon their heads;
and when this pompous official left us with his slaves facing the bow
of the boat, and paddled swiftly landward, the spectacle was uniquely
picturesque.
On sailing out of the harbor we passed an outer point of the high bluff
on which a portion of the city is built, and at the extremity of which
is situated the fortress of San Miguel, already mentioned. South of
this elevation there runs out a tongue of land, or sandy beach, where
our “_commandante_” lived; his house, with its verandas and Eastern
style of architecture, placed in a little patch of tropical green, and
surrounded with palm-trees, presenting, as we steamed past, quite an
attractive Oriental picture.
The change from the close and heated air of Loando to the fresh,
pure, and bracing sea-breeze, as we sailed down the coast, had a most
magical effect upon all of us. One must exist four days and nights in a
stifling furnace heat, such as we endured, in order to fully appreciate
the life-giving influences of the change. While in port the average
temperature was 96° according to our thermometer; but had the mercury
marked ten degrees higher it is doubtful if we could have suffered
more. We were all of us accustomed to a high degree of temperature at
home during the “heated term,” as it is called; but the peculiarity
about the heat which we experienced at Loando was that it produced
an atmosphere distressing to the brain, paralyzing to the limbs, and
prostrating to the whole system. There is no heat in the world more
withering and baleful in its influence upon strangers,--particularly
the Saxon race; and exposure to it, and the night air, is soon followed
by an attack of the African fever. The fact that we were leaving an
atmosphere so deadly, and were in such excellent health, (although
at the island of St. Vincent we were told that the yellow fever had
appeared among the garrison at Loando,) inclined our hearts to a
sentiment of profound gratitude for our continued preservation, and the
mercies we were still enjoying.
We had a quiet sea, and continuing to sail near the coast, were on the
morning of the 2d of December off Port Alexander,--a settlement near
Great Fish Bay,--which is at the mouth of the Nourse River, between the
sixteenth and seventeenth degree of south latitude, and a little north
of the latitude of the island of St. Helena. Directly on passing this
port we steamed near the shore of Cimbeba,--a barren and sandy desert,
which stretches along the entire coast, reaching below the tropic of
Capricorn,--or from Great Fish Bay to Santa Cruz, a place on the coast
of Damara; making a distance of nine hundred miles, where neither fresh
water, nor any vegetation can be found. The shores are very bold, and
their sandy banks deeply and peculiarly seamed, as though gullied by
heavy rains.
On the 4th we outstripped the sun; passing that luminary in twenty-two
degrees and fifty-eight minutes of south latitude. A little before
twelve o’clock of that day, our kind and courteous captain, always
ready and happy to add to our comfort, pleasure, and stock of
information, called us to come on the quarter-deck and see how
thoroughly attenuated and shadowless we had become. Readily obeying
the summons, we were directly walking under the full rays of a mid-day
sun unattended by our life-long shadows; and although aware of the
reason for the absence of our old companions, the thing seemed so
strangely peculiar that we could not resist the continual impulse to
look searchingly, first on one side, and then on the other, and finally
down to our feet, in order to see if there was not a little remnant or
line of our old friends still remaining. Not being successful in this
endeavor, we were obliged to confess to some little sympathy with poor
Peter Schlemyhl, and a readiness to borrow his seven-leagued boots,
that we might go quickly in pursuit of our lost umbras. While nearing
the sun the weather was much cooler,--the mercury falling to 72°,--and,
from experience, we became agreeably aware that his perpendicular rays
are less powerful than when they are cast somewhat obliquely upon
the earth. We now encountered head winds, together with a very rough
sea,--the effect of a gale which had just prevailed along the coast;
and again old Neptune made faces at some of us, while at others he
actually pulled his beard and shook his trident, disagreeably reminding
us that he was still ruler of the ocean, and did not mean to be
forgotten.
Soon after encountering the heavy sea up the coast the weather became
cloudy, and the cold increased until the mercury fell to 62°, rendering
the atmosphere not unlike that in the vicinity of icebergs, and causing
some of our timid ones to feel not a little apprehension. In addition
to this, a dense fog closed in about us, so that we could see but
little farther than a ship’s length; and the light being obscured at
the entrance of the port which we were nearing, we were obliged to lay
to until the morning dawned, and the sun, rising in a clear sky, had
dispersed the fogs and vapors.
The morning was serene and beautiful; but although we were early on
deck we found that our vessel had already passed Robin’s Island, lying
at the entrance to Table Bay, and dividing it into two channels, at
either of which ships may safely enter. Nor were we in time to get
the best view of the mountains composing the head, rump, and tail of
the couchant lion; but Table Mountain was clearly defined, and as
we rounded Green Point and steamed up the bay, passing the shipping
at anchor, the villa-like country residences, with their lawns and
gardens, were seen in the distance, stretching along the mountain
slopes by the sea, and soon the African, but, to us, home-like, city of
Cape Town rose upon our view.
The city of Cape Town lies at a curve of the bay, almost directly
at the base of Table Mountain and the Lion’s Head; the first of
which, rising 3500 feet above the level of the sea, had its square,
table-like top covered with clouds of fleecy whiteness.[2] The latter
rears its proud head sublimely; and we thought as we gazed upon this
scene, combining so much of the grand and beautiful, that no fairer
landscape could be presented to the eye than the magnificent array of
ocean and mountain scenery with which we were surrounded. Doubtless
our respite from the monotony of sea-life rendered this feeling more
appreciable than it would otherwise have been, and prepared us to enjoy
this never-to-be-forgotten scene with the most intense relish and
gratification.
We anchored in Table Bay on Sunday morning, the 8th of December, having
been but ten days out from Loando. Directly on our arrival we learned
from the Custom-house officials who boarded the vessel that a severe
gale, which had raged here and along the coast for ten days previous,
had just passed away, and that we might felicitate ourselves that we
had seen it in no worse form than in its last dying swells, which,
during the last few days of our passage, had vexed the seas which we
traversed.
Although all our surroundings tended to impress us with the fact that
we were in a foreign land, there were, also, many pleasant things to
remind us that we were still within the pale of Protestant Christendom,
and that this Colony, like her motherland, was under the civilizing and
sanctifying influence of the Bible. Again we heard the Sabbath bells,
whose tones were touchingly sweet and home-like, and were delighted
to array ourselves like shore-people and go to church. Table Bay is
subject to frequent visitations of sudden and very severe winds; and a
rule of the port makes it obligatory upon all masters of vessels, in
taking people to and from the city, to use a boat smaller, but in other
respects much like the lighters employed in lading ships, and which
is so constructed as not to be liable to capsize in a sudden squall.
Taking passage in one of these boats, we were landed at the jetty,
(which, with the streets leading to it, was wearing a Sunday-keeping
aspect,) and proceeded directly to St. George’s Cathedral. On entering
the church we were seated by the verger, or beadle, who wore a black
serge gown, made after the fashion of the surplices worn by the
clergy. The Rev. Mr. Douglas, Dean of the Cathedral, preached from
the twenty-first chapter and thirty-third verse of St. Luke’s Gospel,
and gave us a practical discourse, in a style of writing, and manner
of delivery at once polished and elegant. He was assisted in the
services by three clergymen, and the entire Cathedral Service of the
English Church was intoned by a choir of eighteen colored boys, none
of whom were more than twelve or sixteen years of age. They were the
sons of Kaffir chiefs, and students of the Kaffir College, of which we
shall say more hereafter. They were arrayed in white robes, and their
responses were not only melodious, but characterized by a reverential
sweetness. The aisles were paved with red tile, and mural tablets
adorned the walls. The choir, which was situated on the ground-floor
of the Cathedral, at the right of the chancel, had, on one side, a
very fine organ, ornamented in front with a row of small Corinthian
pillars, and on the other side, stalls for the choir, who were shielded
from view, when sitting, by drapery.
The Cathedral is an imposing structure, in the Grecian style of
architecture, having a peristyle of Corinthian columns in front, and
a lofty spire surmounted with a cross. The exterior is covered with a
stucco of the same ochroleucous material used at Loando,--this being
the prevailing style in which the buildings and public edifices at
Cape Town are finished. The attendants at the Cathedral, we were told,
comprised the _élite_ and aristocracy of the city, and were mostly
refined, as well as stylish and fashionable in their appearance. We
observed, however, among them, and occupying the same pews, colored men
and women, who also bore unmistakable marks of being educated persons.
In the seats occupied by the Sunday-school children the colored and
white race sat, indiscriminately, side by side; and as we walked down
the centre-aisle, on leaving the church, we observed a very tall and
well-dressed Kaffir, with prayer-book in hand, and having a gentlemanly
bearing, walking close by our side. Many of the people living out of
town drive in to church; and there was quite a display of handsome
equipages. The horses of the Colony are superior, and one of an
inferior grade is rarely met with. Of vehicles, the English hansom
seemed a favorite “turn-out,” and much in use in the city; but in such
a warm climate it cannot be as comfortable as some other modes of
conveyance.
We were anchored just off from the foot of Table Mountain, and the
weather continuing serene, on returning from church we found that the
table-cloth of cloud had lifted from its top and entirely disappeared.
This peaceful serenity, however, only presaged a coming tempest; and
at about seven in the evening dark clouds began to gather in the east,
and over the top of the mountain, and the roar of the approaching wind
sounded like the heavy booming of distant cannon. In a very short space
of time the clouds had not only covered the flat top of the mountain,
but were rolling and floating with infinite grace and beauty down its
side in a cataract, presenting to the eye a sort of aërial Niagara,--an
object of sublimity which could not be contemplated without producing
in the mind a sensation akin to awe. This gale, which continued with
unabated fury for forty-eight hours, blew with increased violence at
night, when it howled fearfully through the rigging of our ship, in mad
concert with the waves which dashed furiously against us. A large fleet
of vessels were riding at anchor in the bay, with their bows landward,
and not a stitch of canvas flying,--forming the foreground of a marine
view, which, as seen from our quarter-deck, was wild and grand in the
extreme. To describe it, we know to be impossible. We only wished for
the pencil and genius of a Church to transfer it to canvas. Instead of
decreasing in violence, as we had hoped, the storm assumed a far more
terrible and threatening phase; and fearing that it would cause our
vessel to drag her anchors, orders were given to get up steam, so that
if necessary we could put out to sea in order to avoid foundering in
the bay. The stanch little _Poyang_, however, shivered but slightly,
and did not change her mooring; although the wind from sundown until
midnight was like a hurricane in violence. These southeasterly gales
are of frequent occurrence, sweeping not only the bay but the town
itself. They are said to blow away all disease, and to render the
climate salubrious and healthy; hence the inhabitants are pleased to
call the “black southeaster” the Cape Town doctor.
During the prevalence of the gale it was perilous to go on shore,
even in the substantial and safe-sailing lighters; and at one time it
would have been nothing short of downright madness for any one to have
attempted it even in them. The next day, however, was calm, and the
bay was again as placid as a river; so, taking advantage of the beauty
of the morning, and feeling that if we wished to go sight-seeing we
must improve every moment, (as the coaling was to be prosecuted with
the utmost vigor, in order to sail with despatch,) we took a boat, and
sallied forth to “do” the town.
The streets have a fine business-like appearance, and cross each other
at right angles; the jetty at which we landed being at the foot of
Aderly Street, which terminates in a beautiful avenue of English oaks
near the base of the mountain. Leaving the busy and bustling crowd at
the wharf, and passing a short distance up Aderly, we enter Darling
Street, which is a fine avenue, crossing the former, and running for
some distance parallel with the bay. Here, judging from the extensive
haberdashery establishments, the women of Cape Town must do their
shopping. The best hotel of the place is also in this street, as well
as the “Old Curiosity Shop,” kept by Bridges, and a place of interest,
as will be seen further on. We shall not disguise the fact, that,
true to our womanly instincts and tastes, we were curious to learn
everything possible in regard to dress, and the ornamental advantages
enjoyed by our Saxon sisters of this out-of-the-way South African
Colony; but found, during the little shopping which we executed,
that there was no particular difference between them and our own
countrywomen in this respect: the main point with the tradesman being
to get hold of their money, and the principal point with them being to
spend it when they could get it,--which are, perhaps, two of the most
unerring indications of civilization and refinement that can be met
with. We next visited the book and print shops in quest of sketches
of scenery, and delineations of the different peoples common to the
country; but could find nothing that would be of any service to us,
except a few small cards, on which were paintings, in watercolors,
of the different native races inhabiting South Africa. These being
represented in native costume, and at their particular occupations, as
warriors, fishermen, water-carriers, &c., (which, together with their
huts and little boats, were well and spiritedly executed,) gave one a
tolerably correct idea of the personal appearance of the various tribes
coming under the jurisdiction of the Colonial Government, besides
portraying many living further to the north, and occupying a region of
country beyond their rule.
We have already alluded to the fact that in St. George’s Cathedral
the white and black worshippers sat side by side, in recognition of
the Christian equality of the two races. We found, however, that this
principle of equality was not confined to the Church, but that it
pervaded all the business classes,--with whom the oppressed African had
equal rights, and equal opportunities to elevate himself and his race
in the scale of being.
On Plein Street we entered a highly respectable haberdasher-shop
which was kept by colored people. The proprietor was absent, but his
wife--a woman of excellent address--was behind the counter, and her
son, a young man of pleasing manners, was also acting as clerk. The
tradespeople of Cape Town, like the tradesmen of England, have their
dwellings in the same building with their shops; and on perceiving that
we were strangers and Americans, the mother and son invited us to walk
into their parlor, where it was cooler, and we could refresh ourselves
after our long walk. The son led the way, and greatly entertained
us by showing some rare African curiosities, and telling us of the
interior of the country and its people. He was what would be called
a well-educated young tradesman, and we fancied had passed a portion
of his youthful days in England. His use of our vernacular was with
a taste and skill more like that of a well-read professional student
than a business clerk. We were told of another son who was in England,
but made no further inquiries, although we were much interested in the
family, and wished to know more of their history.
From what we could observe, these people occupied a position in the
community corresponding in all respects with that of the whites in the
same business; and no one appeared to feel that this state of things
was any other than it should be.
At No. 9 Darling Street we found the “Old Curiosity Shop” to be a
place of singular interest; where the skins of animals, the plumage of
birds, all kinds of Kaffir curiosities, and many other of the natural
productions of Africa could be procured; while Mr. Bridges, the keeper
of the shop, entertained us highly with his enthusiastic conversation
in regard to his treasures, and communicated some of his personal
reminiscences of Dr. Livingstone, and Sir Gordon Cumming, both of whom
were frequenters of his shop during their visits to Cape Town. The
old man, however, inclined to the opinion that the narrative of the
latter must be taken _cum grano salis_. Soon after entering this shop
the keeper appeared at the door of a room in the rear, with the head
of a gemsbok in his hand, which he kindly showed us. It had just been
sent to him from the interior, and being a very superb specimen of
that animal, he was about preparing it for preservation. In looking
about for the wonderful in this extensive collection, we noticed some
exceedingly delicate shells, which were kept in a glass vessel; and on
making some inquiries in reference to them learned that they were found
in the year 1856, on the sandy beach at Kalk Bay,--a bight in Simon’s
Bay,--which is situated between the naval station and Cape Town. The
old man told us that, as far as he could learn, they had never been
found in any other locality; and also that they had appeared but once
at Kalk Bay, and then were visible but for a short time. He had sent
some of them to Mr. Layard at the British Museum, who informed him
that he had never before met with, nor heard of them, and that they
were nameless, not being mentioned or described in any works treating
on conchology. We purchased a few of them, hoping to place them in
the hands of some naturalist; but, with all the rest of our Oriental
curiosities, they were destroyed on our homeward voyage by the officers
of the pirate Florida.
While out sight-seeing we learned that there was a Museum, Public
Library, and a Botanical or Public Garden, besides two Colleges, which
were desirable places to visit. We accordingly went direct from the Old
Curiosity Shop to Widdow’s Hotel,--a comfortable English inn on the
same street,--and after refreshing ourselves with a generous _tiffin_,
(a term used at the Cape, and at the East generally, for lunch,) took a
carriage, and drove to the Kaffir College. This institution is designed
for the education of the sons of Kaffir chiefs; and at the time of
our visit had been established but two years. It is, to a certain
extent, under Government patronage; and the parents only pay for the
instruction of their sons a nominal sum in cattle.
Mr. Glover, the Principal, (who is a nephew of Sir George Grey, the
former Governor of the Colony, but now Governor of New Zealand,)
was absent, having gone to England to solicit further aid for the
Institution. The establishment is handsomely situated in the curve
of the bay; and, occupying a fine slope of land at the southwesterly
foot of Table Mountain, commands an excellent view of the shipping.
It is over a mile from town, and is well furnished with shrubbery and
shade-trees; and having belonged to one of the early Dutch settlers,
came under cultivation at the time of the first occupation of the
Colony. The house and out-buildings were also erected by the first
proprietors.
Some years ago this place fell into the hands of the Colonial
Government, and at the time of the Sepoy Rebellion was used as a depot
for horses, one thousand of which were purchased in the Colony for the
use of Her Majesty’s forces in India, and kept here, in an immense
Dutch barn, until they could be shipped to Calcutta.
This building is constructed of brick, and is provided with very
high, thick walls, and pointed gables, having a roof supported by
bamboo rafters, and covered with the Cape rush. It is now being put
to good uses, having under its spacious roof the chapel, school-room,
dining-hall, and most of the workshops occupied by the Kaffir students.
The house, which faces seaward, is also built of brick, having two
antiquely pointed gables roofed with tile, and is surrounded with
picturesquely fashioned Oriental verandas. We regretted to learn that
the clergyman in charge, during Mr. Glover’s visit to England, was also
absent, having gone to town; but on being introduced to Mr. Hewitt,
the Chief Warden, as strangers and Americans, who wished to see the
Institution, and learn something of its history, plans, and prospects,
this gentleman received us very kindly, and ushering us into the
parlor, said he was sorry it was their half-holiday, as a number of
their boys had just left for town, and we could not see them at their
studies; but remarking that he would show us the establishment with
pleasure, directly led the way to the principal building, of which we
have already spoken, and which, in spite of its enormous proportions,
was nearly hidden by trees and shrubbery.
We first entered the carpenter’s shop, where we found a number of
boys at work, under the instruction of an English mechanic. Here Mr.
Hewitt pointed out a lad of twelve or fifteen years of age, as a son
of Umhala, one of the most distinguished Kaffir chiefs. The boy’s name
was Condele, and he was in fact a prince of the blood royal. They all
appeared cheerful and happy, although seemingly shy of strangers, and
were diligently at work, making lecterns and other church furniture.
Mr. Hewitt remarked that they worked chiefly on such articles, which
were made of teak-wood and finished in a nice manner. We also visited
the other workshops, which presented about the same appearance,
excepting the tailoring-room, which was under the supervision of
an English woman, whose sewing-class numbered but seven boys. The
school-room was a large and airy apartment, floored with red tile,
and well furnished with the necessary fixtures. Upon its walls were
suspended maps and cards, and on the latter were printed texts of
Scripture.
The chapel, a spacious and well-proportioned room, was appropriately
fitted up with seats, having an altar, chancel, and reading-desk of
teak-wood, all made by the students. It was used only for the daily
Church Service, as on Sunday the officers and students attend worship
at St. George’s Cathedral; and the choir of boys we heard there, as
already stated, was composed of the students from this College. The
walls were prettily painted in a sort of fresco, and were done _con
amore_ by some amateur lady-artists of Cape Town. Over the altar
and between the two windows back of the chancel, there was a large
illuminated cross, about which was entwined a vine; while over and
at each side of it was traced in illuminated letters the text, “I am
the true vine, and my Father is the husbandman.” The stone-colored,
or shaded ground of the walls was flecked with what seemed to us
a representation of the _fleur-de-lis_, although it may have been
intended for the plume of the Prince of Wales. This was done in a
tint of maroon. The floor was of wood, and carpeted, and the building
was well ventilated,--the ceiling of all the apartments rising to the
pointed roof, from which height a rustic chandelier was suspended,
constructed of some dark wood, in the form of a cross, and furnished
with sockets for candles.
The dining-room was long, ample, and furnished in a plain but
comfortable manner; and the walls were ornamented with large engraved
portraits of Queen Victoria, the Prince Consort, and their children,
all in gilt frames. Prince Alfred, during his recent visit to the Cape,
became greatly interested in this College, and on returning to England
presented it with these pictures. The boys have a thoroughly religious
and useful education, but at the same time each one is obliged to learn
some trade. They are allowed to choose whatever handicraft they may
fancy, and almost all trades were popular among them except that of the
tailor, which is regarded as a menial service, and in their own country
is always performed by women, who, wherever the light of the blessed
gospel has not shone, to the practical illumination of the heart, are
looked upon as a degraded and inferior class of beings. Gardening, for
the same reason, is also in bad odor; and the pursuit of agriculture
has yet to gain even a respectable position among these royal Kaffirs,
who rarely work in the garden attached to the College, excepting when,
as a slight form of punishment, they are adjudged to serve at that
employment for a certain time.
The design of the Institution is preparatory,--the cleverest of the
boys, as they advance in their studies, being sent to England for a
more thorough education, after which they usually return to their
native country as missionaries and teachers. One had already been sent
there, and was pursuing his literary course at Oxford.
In the same building with the tailoring-room there was an English
missionary lady, who had a class of six Kaffir girls. Three of them had
been with her fifteen months; the rest a much shorter time. All of the
former were quite proficient in reading, and one little creature, in
particular, pronounced her words with an accent and voice of inimitable
sweetness.
After walking through the garden, and the small vineyard adjoining,
we returned to the parlor, where a very nice cup of tea awaited us;
and our first introduction to this Eastern custom reminded us that
we had already reached the neighborhood of the Orient. While we were
refreshing ourselves, a large music-box (also the gift of Prince
Alfred) discoursed some charming music; after which the gentlemanly
warden gave each of the ladies a bouquet from the garden, and we
left with agreeable impressions of that enlarged and noble Christian
benevolence which had established the Institution, and was still
steadily working for its advancement.
Mr. Hewitt had formerly been a missionary, and one of our party asking
him if the Kaffir were more stupid and difficult of cultivation than
other heathen, he replied that they were less so, and learned more
readily. He also remarked that the boys possessed great facility in
learning, and were quick and ready at all kinds of handicraft. The
next morning a part of the missionary party on board our vessel also
paid a visit to this College, and meeting the acting Principal, who
had formerly been a missionary to the Kaffirs in the interior, had
an interesting conversation with him about that race, together with
their present religious condition and prospects. He regarded them as
the descendants of Ishmael, and in proof of this pointed to one of
the boys whom he thought of a decidedly Arab physiognomy. What further
ground he had for such a theory we did not learn. The Kaffirs are
readily distinguished from the other African tribes, and are considered
more courageous, determined, and independent than the Hottentots, or
Bechuanas, who, with the former, constitute the chief races of South
Africa. Their skin is of a brownish black tint, while the Congos of the
western coast are of a shining jet-black color.
On returning to the wharf we found that a light southeaster was again
disturbing the waters of the bay; and setting sail for our ship, drove
with so much violence before the wind that we not only _shipped_ seas,
but _un_shipped our rudder,--a circumstance which placed us, for the
time being, in a position of more danger than we had been in since
leaving New York.
As the _Poyang_ was to be ready for sea the next afternoon, the early
morning found us again in the streets of Cape Town,--it being our
design to visit the Museum and Library, together with the Industrial
Schools belonging to St. George’s Cathedral, and also, if possible,
to take a peep at the Botanical Garden. All these, together with the
Government buildings and the African College,--an institution open to
the youth of the city,--are in the same neighborhood, and, situated on
either side of the avenue of oaks mentioned as a continuation of Aderly
Street, are enclosed by a brick wall. Over the entrance-gate leading
from the street into the avenue, an inscription on the wall gives the
year 1848 as the date of the foundation of the Library and Museum.
The building appropriated to these institutions is a brick edifice
of Grecian architecture, having a peristyle of Corinthian columns,
and stands directly at the right of the entrance to the grounds above
mentioned. At the time of our visit the exterior was not completed, but
the building within was finished throughout in a substantial English
style.
In the entrance-hall, or saloon, were a few pieces of statuary and some
pictures; and on the right was a door leading to the Library, which
is a commodious room with well-filled alcoves. We could not learn the
number of volumes it contained, but the arrangements and fixtures were
excellent,--each department and language having its separate alcove,
and a desk for the use of visitors. There were also handsome and finely
arranged library-tables placed at each end of the room, which, with the
other fixtures, were made of the rich dark teak-wood; and suspended on
the wall, at the head of this apartment, was a full-length portrait
of Queen Victoria, arrayed in her royal robes. When Prince Alfred
visited the Library, this painting was covered with drapery until the
band struck up “God save the Queen!” then the son, on getting his first
glimpse of this excellent picture,--a very life-like representation of
Her Majesty,--was so overcome that he burst into tears.
Leading out of the Library we entered an apartment called the
Educational Room, in which were all kinds of philosophical and chemical
apparatus,--the last of which was particularly extensive. The walls of
this room were literally covered with diagrams, paintings of botanical
specimens, maps, and charts.
On the other side of the entrance-hall is the Museum, to which the
public have access only for one day during the week. Our visit had
fallen upon a day when it was closed; but the obliging librarian, being
informed that we were Americans, and were to sail in the evening,
went at once in search of the person in charge, who, on making his
appearance, said he would admit us with pleasure, but must lock us in.
Then showing us where we could touch a bell when we desired to go, he
closed the door, and we found ourselves in a large apartment containing
an extensive collection of well-preserved animals, birds, and reptiles,
as well as geological and fossil specimens, and many curious and
rare articles connected with the early history of the Colony. Our
attention was particularly attracted by a large representation of the
_mammalia_, _ruminantia_, and _quadrumana_; and the groups of hunting
tigers and hyenas were so life-like in attitude and appearance as to
disagreeably startle one on turning suddenly upon them. It did not
require any great effort of the imagination to give these animals all
the forms and features of life, or to fancy the savagely grinning
creatures really regarding us as a very toothsome morsel ready for
their enjoyment. There were very large collections of the _ophidia_ and
_batrachia_, preserved in spirits and stuffed. If the expression can be
considered allowable, South Africa is certainly rich in reptiles. We
noticed two remarkable skeletons of a python and a yellow cobra, with
all their bones perfect and of an ivory whiteness. These were under
glass cases, so arranged as to exhibit the reptiles in their natural
attitudes; and with heads erect, lying half-straight and half-sinuous,
the terrible beasts impressed us as frightfully hideous and life-like.
The representations of the deer family were also numerous, comprising a
stuffed specimen of nearly every buck mentioned by Sir Gordon Cumming;
and a beautiful little animal called the clip-springer, which stood in
the same group with the latter, was a very attractive and interesting
object. There was also a fine collection of coral, and the specimens
of _radiata madrepora_ were very beautiful. Among the minerals we
noticed several large and superb specimens of crystallized malachite.
The birds were very numerous, and were preserved in fine order,
being arranged after the usual mode in glass cases, which entirely
covered one side of the large room. The beauty of their plumage I
shall not attempt to describe. Some of the most numerous were of the
orders _palmipedes_, _grallatores_, and _rasores_;--the collection
comprised specimens of nearly all the birds of South Africa, from the
little humming-bird, with its exquisite rainbow tints, to the large,
coarse, and sinewy ostrich,--with every variety of plumage, from
the most gorgeous to the gravest hues. The bright and gay, however,
predominated; and the red of the flamingo, the yellow and bright salmon
of the parrot species, together with various green and orange-colored
shades, were most numerous. Our admiration was greatly excited by a
bird, as large perhaps as our common woodpecker, but in form very like
our finest barnyard cocks. He was a spirited-looking creature, of
true lordly port, with a handsomely shaped comb delicately edged with
red, which formed a beautiful contrast with his rich, orange-colored
plumage. The tips of his wings and tail were flecked with black, and
he rejoiced in a name admirably in keeping with his bearing, being
called the “cock of the rocks.”
A group of Kaffirs, composed of two men and a woman, done in plaster,
and painted black, strikingly represented the contrast in social
position of the two sexes among that people. The men, who were arrayed
as native warriors, stood proudly looking up, in attitudes denoting
independence, manly bearing, and self-reliance; while the woman,
kneeling between them, having a downcast and servile expression of
countenance and posture, with her infant fastened on her back, and
in her hands a stone, significant of her readiness to perform the
menial labor of grinding the corn, looked the impersonation of patient
endurance and meek submission. The whole was spiritedly executed, and
its faithful embodiment of the degrading influence of heathenism upon
woman led us to feel more devoutly grateful, than we had ever before,
for the blessed influences of Bible Christianity, which places our sex
upon a secure religious and social equality with man.
We found here several interesting relics connected with the history
of the old Dutch Colony, among which was an oaken chair covered with
quaint carvings, upon which was fastened a card, setting forth that
“Piet Gysbert Nood, Governor of the Colony of Good Hope, died in this
chair in 1728.”
The Botanical Garden, which fronts the Library and Museum building,
is rich in tropical trees, shrubs, and plants, and remarkable
for containing a great variety of the cactus family. The arbors
were covered with beautiful creepers, among which we noticed the
passion-vine growing in much luxuriance.
The Industrial Schools are on the other side of the street, and occupy
two buildings of gray stone. The one appropriated to the Infant
School is a pretty little Gothic structure, and was established in
1850, under the patronage of the wife of Sir George Grey, being now
called Lady Grey’s School. The advanced department was established by
Lady Charlotte Bell, of England, in 1820. Although under government
patronage, these schools are not entirely charitable institutions, a
small sum being usually paid for tuition. The school-rooms are large
and well supplied with fixtures, including a philosophical apparatus,
which the managers of the advanced school have recently introduced
at a great expense, for the purpose of extending the usefulness of
the institution, and affording the advantages of a superior English
education to all. The principal and several of the teachers now
employed are from England, each having stipulated, before leaving
home, to teach five years. In both schools the white and black children
sit together, and are in the same classes. We found the principal (or
rather preceptress) to be a gentle, intelligent, and lady-like person;
and deeply regretted that we had not more time to remain, and learn
something further of her particular experience in the education of
colored children.
There are 32,000 people in the city of Cape Town, of whom 10,000
are Mohammedans, who have their priests, mosques, and schools. We
met one of their priests in the streets, in full costume, with his
Mecca-blessed _comboloio_, or rosary of beads, in his hand. A learned
Oriental traveller once told us that a Mohammedan priest is rarely seen
conversing without his beads, with which he toys much as a Spanish lady
does with her fan.
There are five churches in Cape Town, one of which--the old Dutch
Reformed Church in Aderly Street--was first built in 1713. The fort and
city hospital, as well as all the other buildings and public works,
are of a thoroughly substantial character; and a breakwater, the
corner-stone of which was laid by Prince Alfred during his visit, and
which is to extend from Green Point two miles out into the bay, was in
process of construction while we were there. This great work, which
will cost several millions of pounds, is built by casting large pieces
of stone into the water until high enough to erect a stone-masonry upon
them. At the time of our visit there had already been expended upon
this enterprise the sum of one million of pounds sterling. Wharves,
also, like those at Liverpool, are to be built. Every day our ears
were greeted with the familiar screech of the steam-whistle,--as fifty
miles of the railroad, which is to terminate at Port Elizabeth, on the
eastern coast, were already completed and in running order. The whole
work was to be finished during the autumn of 1862. The Custom-house is
an extensive brick building, standing not far from the wooden jetty at
the foot of Aderly Street.
The market is held in a large square, from four to six o’clock in the
morning, when the vegetables and fruits remaining unsold are disposed
of at auction. The cattle and sheep are much superior to those of St.
Paul de Loando,--the sheep brought on board at that port bearing a
strong resemblance to goats, and the wool (if it could be called wool)
was much like the hair of that animal. The face of the creature was the
only thing that looked _sheepish_. The different breeds of long-tailed
sheep, for which the Cape was at one time so celebrated, are said to
be almost extinct, the crosses of the Merinos and Leicesters having
superseded them, as being more profitable, both on account of the
quality of mutton and the fineness as well as the yield of wool. This
article is exported to England in large quantities every year, and some
of it, also, finds its way to America; but the staple and quality of
the Cape wool has of late years greatly improved.
FOOTNOTE:
[2] This is called, at Cape Town, the “Table-cloth.”