Transcriber’s Notes:
Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_), and text
enclosed by equal signs is in bold (=bold=).
Additional Transcriber’s Notes are at the end.
* * * * *
A YEAR IN CHINA;
AND A
NARRATIVE OF CAPTURE AND IMPRISONMENT,
WHEN HOMEWARD BOUND, ON BOARD
THE REBEL PIRATE FLORIDA.
BY
MRS. H. DWIGHT WILLIAMS,
AUTHOR OF “VOICES FROM THE SILENT LAND.”
WITH AN
INTRODUCTORY NOTE
BY WILLIAM CULLEN BRYANT.
NEW YORK:
PUBLISHED BY HURD AND HOUGHTON,
401 BROADWAY, COR. WALKER STREET.
1864.
* * * * *
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1864, by
HURD AND HOUGHTON,
in the Clerk’s Office of the District Court for the Southern District
of New York.
RIVERSIDE, CAMBRIDGE:
PRINTED BY H. O. HOUGHTON AND COMPANY.
* * * * *
This Volume,
MUCH OF WHICH WAS ORIGINALLY WRITTEN IN LETTERS TO MY MOTHER,
IS AFFECTIONATELY AND TEARFULLY
Dedicated
TO HER MEMORY.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
Departure from New York, and Passage to the Cape de Verd Islands.
Arrival there. The Island of St. Vincent. Passage to St. Paul de
Loando. The African Continent. Entrance into the South Atlantic.
Arrival at St. Paul de Loando. Bay of Loando. Loando. Fortifications.
Population. Language. A Slaver. Coaling the Vessel 1-25
CHAPTER II.
From Loando to Cape Town. Arrival there. Sunday at Cape Town. The
Black Southeaster. The “Lions” of Cape Town. The Old Curiosity Shop.
The Kaffir College. Public Institutions. The Library. The Museum.
Statuary. The Botanical Garden. The Industrial Schools. Population.
Buildings and Public Works. The Markets 26-58
CHAPTER III.
From Cape Town to Mauritius. The “Whale’s Feed.” Brilliancy of the
Tropical Heavens. The Island of Madagascar. The Isle of Bourbon.
Approach to Mauritius. Harbor of Port Louis. Cholera. Early History
of the Island. The City of Port Louis. The Hurricane Season.
Pamplemeuses. Tomb of Paul and Virginia. The Public Cemetery. The
Zoölogical, or Royal Gardens. The Christian Cemetery. Mrs. Newell’s
Grave. A Mahommedan Funeral 59-91
CHAPTER IV.
From Mauritius to Singapore. The Straits of Malacca. Malacca. The
Continent of Asia. Approach to Singapore. Singapore Harbor. The
Dubash, Ramasamy. “Doing” the City and Environs. Singapore River.
Departure from Singapore. The Northeast Monsoon. Coast of Cochin
China. Approach to Hong Kong 92-113
CHAPTER V.
The Harbor of Hong Kong. Love of Country. War Rumors. The War Steamer
“Saginaw.” The Cold Weather. Position and Name of the Island. The
City of Victoria. Sedan Chairs, and my first Excursion in one. Miss
Wilson’s School. Prince Albert’s Death. “Chits,” and “Chit-Books.”
Confirmation by the Bishop. The Bishop of Victoria. The Camelia
Japonica. Society. Horses and Equipages. “Happy Valley.” The
Race-course. Races. The Cemeteries. Forms of Chinese Graves or Tombs.
The New-Year’s Festival 114-131
CHAPTER VI.
Passage to Macao. The Macao Roads. The Inner Harbor. The Tanka-boats,
and Tanka Boat-women. The Landing. Welcomed by Friends. The Peninsula
of Macao. Settlement and Population. Macao, the Favorite Residence
of Foreigners. The American Consul. Dwellings. Forts. Chinese Graves
not enclosed. The Government Park. The Dutch Admiral. Temple of
Makauk. Temple of Mongha. The Protestant Cemeteries. The Graves of
East India Company Officers. Dr. Morrisson. Chinnery, the English
Artist. Romanism. The Casa Gardens, and Camoën’s Grotto. The Island
of Tui-mien-shan, or Lapa Island. The Ringing Rock. The Lime-kiln
Village 132-150
CHAPTER VII.
Passage to Whampoa. The Chinese Pirates. The Bogue Forts. Whampoa.
Old Whampoa. Bambootown. Newtown. The Islands. The Dry Docks.
Foreign Shipping. “Chops.” “Chop-Life.” Servants. The Little
Breakfast. The Women of China. Mode of carrying Children. Boats
and Boating. Exercise. Forbidding Aspect of Nature in China. The
Tomb of Hon. Alexander Everett. The Bethel “Chop.” Chinese Love of
Noise. Ancestral Worship. The English Vice-Consul, and our other
Neighbors. Fear of Collisions with Vessels. The Heat, Dampness, and
Thunder-storms 151-174
CHAPTER VIII.
Sail to Canton. Pagodas. Ruins of the Barrier Forts. Commodore
Foote. Vessel of a Petty Mandarin. The Imperial Fleet. Boat-Life at
Canton. Dutch Folly. The Hongs of the Merchants. The Old Factories.
The Shameen and Macao Passage. History of Canton. Walls of the City.
Population. Chair-Coolies. Residences of the American Missionaries.
The “Lions” of the Old City. The Wan-shau-kung, or Imperial Presence
Hall. Crowded Streets. Temple of Literature. The Temple of Mars.
The Provincial College. An English Military Road. The Great Eastern
Gateway. East and West Street. The Temple of Horrors. The Residence
of the Imperial Treasurer. Pavilion of the Five Genii. The
Mohammedan Mosque. Street Crowds. My first Sunday in Canton. Marriage
Processions. The Business Streets. Beggars. Chinese Officials
regarded with Respect. Western Suburbs. Howqua Street. Private
Residences of Howqua and Pun-Tingqua. The Dog and Cat Market 175-197
CHAPTER IX.
Buddhist Temples. The Temple of Five Hundred Gods. Temple of
Longevity. The Hai-chwang-sz, or Honam Joss House. Vespers. A Relic
of Buddha. Commemorative Tablets. The Sacred Hogs. Priests burned
after Death. The Necessity of Protestant Missions. Missionaries.
Mission Schools. Mr. Bonney’s School. Mrs. Bonney’s School. The Feast
of the Dragon-boats. Private Gardens of Howqua and Pun-Tingqua. The
Fa-ti, or Flower Gardens. Chinese Shops. Shopkeepers. Ushing. Pohing.
Carvings in Ivory. Hoaching. Chinese Taste for fine Carvings. Curio
Street, and Antiques. Jade-stone. Fans. Suchau Lacquered Ware. Wealth
and Opulence of Canton 198-219
CHAPTER X.
Chinese Women, and their Adornments. Use of Cosmetics. Small Feet.
Mingqua. Foreign Ladies rarely obtain Access to Chinese Ladies of
Rank. Visit to Mingqua’s Family. The Gentlemen permitted to see the
Ladies. Mingqua’s Sons. The House. Chinese Etiquette does not allow
the Shaking of Hands. Visit to a Mandarin Family. His beautiful
Mansion, and the Inner Apartments. The Ladies, and their Salutations.
Drinking Tea. Inspection of our Dress. The Furniture, and arrangement
of the Apartments. Invitation to Dine 220-232
CHAPTER XI.
Removal to Swatow, and Fears of Pirates by the way. Macao in Summer.
Summer Evenings, and the Portuguese Ladies. The Estrada-de-Cacilhas.
Appearance of Macao when approached from the Sea. Romish Festivals.
Corpus Christi Day. Festival of St. John, and the Mummers. Fourth of
July Fête at the United States Consulate 233-248
CHAPTER XII.
Arrival at Swatow. The River and Harbor. The Country. Double Island,
the Residence of Foreigners. The Climate. Continued Heat of the
Summer. Mosquitoes. Names given to Double Island. The Chinese Names,
with their Origin and Explanations. Temple of Ma-tsoo. A Heathen
Festival. The Itinerant Theatre. The Mission Station of the Baptist
Board. The Missionaries. Mrs. Johnson’s School. Persecution of
Converts to Christianity. Imprisonment of an old Native Teacher.
Communion Season of the Mission. Aged Converts. Their Devotion.
London Society Missionaries. Difference in the Dialects and in the
People. Feuds of the People. The Coolie Traffic. Great Mortality.
Graves. Selling of Women. Need of Sanatariums. Ill-Health 249-266
CHAPTER XIII.
Homeward bound. Amoy. Island of Ku-lang-su. The Mission Chapel and
the Rev. Mr. Burns. Success of the Amoy Mission. Persecution of the
Native Converts. Dutch Reformed Mission. Carvings of Olive Stones.
The Pumelo Fruit. Passage to Fuh-chau. Scenery on the river Min.
Places for Firing and Curing Tea. The Farms and Hamlets. The Pagoda
Anchorage. Hospitality of Foreign Residents. Sail from the Anchorage
to the City. Our Boat and Boatmen. Mansion of Messrs. Olyphant &
Co. Situation of Fuh-chau. The City Walls. The Suburb of Nantai. The
Granite Bridge. Our Visit within the Walled City. Crowded Streets.
Tea Pavilions. A Church. Nanka, or South Street. Curiosity of the
People. Residences of the Gentry. Population. The Character of the
People. The Boat-People. Flowers worn by the Women. Artificial
Flowers. Confucian Temples. Wu-shih-shan, or Black-stone Hill.
Extensive and Beautiful View. A Walk on the Walls of the City. Kushan
Peak. Kushan Monastery. Graves and Tombs. The Tombs of the Mandarins
and Men of Wealth. Paths for Horseback Riding. Promenade amid Graves.
The Chinese. Kite-flying. Fuh-chau Marbles. Silver Flowers. Fire
Screens. The English Chapel. The Missionaries. Their Schools 267-289
CHAPTER XIV.
Embarking for the United States. Towed out to Sea. Sea-sickness.
Accommodations and Prospects. The Channel of Formosa, and the China
Sea. Victoria Peak. The Natura Islands. Great Heat. Squalls. A Sea
Monster. Gasper Strait. Anjer. Boats with Ship Supplies. The Straits
of Sunda. Anchor for the Night. A Night of quiet Sleep. Entering the
Strait. Renjang, or Thwart-the-way Island. Passing into the Indian
Ocean. Java Head. Meteors. Sunsets. Brilliant Stars. Trade Winds. A
Nor’wester. A Sou’easter. The Bracing Air of the Cape. Sea Birds, the
Albatross. The Atlantic Tropics. The Depressing Heat. Nearing New
York 290-302
CHAPTER XV.
Capture of the Jacob Bell by the Pirate Steamer Florida. Transfer of
the Passengers and Crew to the Florida. Chase after another “Yankee.”
She escapes. Captain Maffit says he cannot save our Luggage. Excuses
himself by pleading want of Room. His Officers permitted to plunder
it. The Scene of Pillage. Lieut. Reed and others carrying our Silver
and other Valuables into the Ward Room. One Officer selecting Fans
from our Things. Another puts on a Hoop-skirt and trips about the
Deck of the Jacob Bell. The Pirates so absorbed in Plundering
the Vessel as to be oblivious to all else. The Ships drift near
each other. Danger of a Collision. Burning of the Jacob Bell. Our
Piratical Cruise. All Day Sunday are in pursuit of another United
States Vessel. Happily she eludes us. On Monday in chase of a French
Vessel. The Pirates board her. Captain Maffit’s Duplicity. Attempt at
Civility. Hatred expressed towards the North. Incidents. Chase after
the Danish Bark Morning Star. The Pirates bring her to by Firing a
Gun. Our Transfer to her. A part of the Remnant of Luggage allowed
us finally retained by Captain Maffit. Our Destitution. Sail to the
Island of St. Thomas. Voyage thence in the Cunard Steamer Delta to
Halifax. Passage in the Arabia to Boston 303-362
INTRODUCTORY NOTE.
The Empire of China, with its immense population, its peculiar customs
and arts, the character of its people, so unlike that of the nations
of Western Europe, and the imperfect stage of civilization at which
it has halted for many centuries, if, indeed, it has not somewhat
receded towards barbarism, presents an interesting subject of inquiry
and speculation to all who concern themselves with the welfare and
future destiny of the human race. The settlement of the Pacific coast
of the United States, and the navigation of the ocean by steam, have
made China our immediate neighbor, and will bring us into relations
with her people far closer and more fruitful, either of good or evil,
than the subjects of any European power can have. Emigrants from that
populous land have already made a descent upon our Pacific States, and
with whatever jealousy or aversion their arrival may be regarded, they
will probably from henceforth form a part of the stock from which that
region is to be peopled.
The great rebellion which, for fourteen years past, has raged in China
with such prodigious waste of human life, is now brought to an end. The
empire, delivered from this danger and this drain upon its resources,
may now turn its attention solely to the arts of peace. Report ascribes
to the present Government a disposition to allow entrance to the ideas
and improvements of European civilization. The country has been opened
to the teachers of Christianity, and there are signs of a willingness
to adopt new and better modes of intellectual and moral training.
All these circumstances concur to make China and the Chinese objects of
an enlightened curiosity to our countrymen. Scarce anything relating to
that country and its people is destitute of interest to the inhabitants
of the United States. In the little work to which this note is prefixed
will be found accounts of Chinese manners and modes of life derived
from a personal observation, for which the author possessed rather
peculiar advantages. She is the wife of an American gentleman holding
an official station under the Chinese Government, the nature of which I
will briefly explain.
By the treaties which have opened the trade of the empire to
foreigners, the Chinese Government engages to employ, at each of the
five ports mentioned in the treaties, an American, English, or French
Commissioner of Customs, with the necessary subordinate officers,
and with a Superintendent at their head, who resides at Peking, near
the Court. These Commissioners act only between the Government and
foreigners; they are appointed and paid by the Imperial Court, which
possesses descriptions of their personal appearance so minute and exact
that they are easily recognized, and they make to that Court monthly
returns of their official acts, solemnly attested. Vastly more revenue
is gathered into the Chinese treasury since foreigners were thus
employed than before. The native officers were easily bribed, and the
Government received but meagre returns from ports which now yield a
large income. So well has the change worked, that nothing would induce
the Chinese Government to return to the old system.
The author of the pages which follow is the wife of the Commissioner
at Swatow, one of the five ports through which the commerce of foreign
lands is admitted into the kingdom. Inasmuch as the Commissioners may
be sent, by an order from Peking through the Superintendent, from one
port to another, it happens that their residence is often changed; and,
as they are treated with great consideration by the Chinese, both they
and the persons composing their families have peculiar opportunities
for acquiring a knowledge of the country and its people.
Of that advantage the author of the present work availed herself. Her
accounts of Chinese manners and habits of life bear tokens of the
greatest sincerity and conscientiousness. They are manifestly the
precise relation of what was presented to her observation, and are
given without the slightest attempt at embellishment, and without even
any unconscious coloring. Those parts of the work which relate to the
domestic life of the Chinese women will, in a particular manner, engage
the attention of the reader.
The closing part of the narrative is varied by an adventure very
different from what ordinarily falls to the lot of the traveller. On
her return to the United States, for the sake of her health, she was
so unfortunate as to fall into the hands of the pirate Maffit, who
seems to have taken a particular fancy to her personal effects, and
included them among his other robberies. The narrative of her captivity
illustrates the indiscriminating spirit of plunder with which this new
class of freebooters exercise their profession.
W. C. BRYANT.
* * * * *
A YEAR IN CHINA.
CHAPTER I.
A voyage to China in a sailing vessel is an every-day occurrence, and
its monotonous sea-life usually barren of interesting incidents; but
taking a steamer, and making a sort of yachting trip of it, as it was
our good fortune to do, renders it one of the most enjoyable pieces of
sea-travel one can make.
We took passage for Hong-Kong in the _Poyang_,--a new steamer belonging
to the mercantile house of Messrs. Olyphant & Co., and designed for
navigating the Yangtsz-Kiang, one of the largest rivers of China.
Although in appearance greatly like one of our river steamers, she
was constructed,--in respect to strength and durability,--more on the
model of our best sea-going vessels. She was also most ably commanded
by Captain George Briggs, and left the dock at the foot of Tenth
Street, East River, on the afternoon of October 26, 1861. Two or three
steamers, built and intended for the river navigation of China, had,
previous to this time, sailed from New York; but we believe none of
them had carried passengers, while the _Poyang_ had, with the women
and children, sixteen. On going aboard the vessel we found her deck
and cabins quite thronged with people, few of whom were incited by
curiosity, but were attracted thither from affectionate interest, to
make their final adieus, and to cheer with good wishes those of their
friends who were about to leave for that far off land,--
“Beyond where Ceylon lifts her spicy breast,
And waves the woods above the watery waste
To the fair kingdoms of the rising day.”
The morning had been cloudy, and a slight drizzling rain, which set
in a little before the warning bell summoned our friends to leave the
vessel, did not tend to make our last farewells the more cheerful.
A steam-tug was to accompany us down the Narrows, and the Messrs.
Olyphant, with a party of friends, together with several clergymen
and some friends of the passengers, remaining on board, we enjoyed
their companionship for two or three hours longer, during which time
a cold collation was served; and having some missionaries among our
passengers, interesting religious services were had in the cabin,
when, with much earnest prayer, we were commended to the care of
our heavenly Father. The time for the return of these friends having
at length arrived, the steamer was stopped, and with many adieus
they were safely transferred from the vessel to the tug. Then amid
loud cheers and the waving of handkerchiefs we separated; and as the
distance was fast widening between us, the colors of each vessel were
constantly dipping, and making their last signals of farewell. There
was also a general waving of handkerchiefs from the silent group on
our quarter-deck, and a straining of moistened eyes to get a last look
of the little vessel, whose final disappearance, upon the far-off
horizon, told us that we had bidden a long farewell to dear friends and
Fatherland.
Our good steamer ploughed swiftly through the billows, and in a short
time we were well out at sea, having ample opportunity, before reaching
the rough Gulf Stream, to look about and note our surroundings as they
affected our prospects for a comfortable or an uncomfortable voyage.
The kind and stirring character of our stewardess soon satisfied us
as to our cabin prospects, nor did she in the least disappoint our
expectations. In all respects we were well cared for, and everything
was arranged to make us as comfortable as we could be during so long
a voyage. The next morning we were in the Gulf Stream, where we had
very rough weather for three days,--during which time, as we expected,
sea-sickness made its appearance, but fortunately, in nearly every
case, to be of only brief duration. It soon left us to the full
and uninterrupted enjoyment of sea-life; but our early recovery we
attribute chiefly to remaining much of the time upon deck, and to
constant regularity at meals;--the sensible advice, as it proved to be,
of a friend experienced in voyaging, and which we commend to all others
who may at any time be similarly circumstanced with ourselves. A few of
the passengers, however, suffered greatly; and the state-rooms becoming
uncomfortable as we entered the warm latitudes, the half-way invalids
arranged themselves at their ease in the cabin; some lying down, and
others in a variety of attitudes, sitting and bracing themselves
against the sides of the cabin, with lugubriously distressed faces,
presented pictures of a life on the ocean wave which embodied far more
of the grotesque than the picturesque.
We had entered the tropics, and the heat increasing, although we
were almost constantly favored with a fine cool sea-breeze, our
dining-saloon was becoming too warm for comfort. This was somewhat
remedied by resorting to the _punka-frame_,--being a frame, as its
name implies, covered with muslin and placed over the table, where at
meal-time it was put in motion by the machinery of the vessel, and
served all the purposes of a fan. The weather was charming, and we
steamed along as quietly as though on a placid river. We had a kind
and polite company of passengers, and there being clergymen among
the number, prayers were had in the cabin morning and evening, and
religious services were held in the dining-saloon every Sunday, to
which all were invited. Our experienced and gentlemanly captain and his
officers were men to inspire confidence; and the rough passage through
the Gulf Stream had fully satisfied us that our vessel was a stanch and
firm sailing craft, and also that whatever experience and skill could
do for our safety during the voyage, would be done.
On the morning of the 9th of November we sighted St. Antonio, the
northernmost of the Cape de Verd Islands. The atmosphere was hazy, and
at a distance of twenty miles the island had the appearance of a bank
of clouds resting upon the horizon. On closer observation, however, we
saw the rugged sides of the mountain steeps; and what had appeared to
be a heavy, dark cloud, became the well-defined crest of a mountain,
which loomed up in the centre of the island to the height of seven
thousand four hundred feet above the level of the sea. We coasted
for some time within four or five miles of its rocky, precipitous
sides, finding it sublime in lofty peaks, deep gorges, and barren
wastes, which, with its shadowy ravines, presented a series of grandly
unique pictures. The sea was of the purest aqua-marine hue,--a lovely,
tropical sea,--and so clear that one could easily follow the movements
of the finny tribe far down in what seemed to be the deepest deep.
The Cape de Verd Islands belong to Portugal, and are of volcanic
formation, many of them being nothing more than masses of barren rocks
and mountains. They are three hundred miles distant from the coast of
Africa, and have a hot and unhealthy climate.
We were to stop for coals at Porte au Grande, the chief port of the
island of St. Vincent, and, leaving the shores of St. Antonio, a sail
of thirteen miles brought us to the entrance of the fine bay which
forms the harbor of this island. On nearing the shore we found the
scenery more wildly picturesque in jagged rocks, and wonderful mountain
peaks, than at St. Antonio; and it did not require any very great
effort of the imagination to transform the singularly castellated and
battlemented cliffs into ruined castles and fortresses of the olden
time.
The little town or village of Port au Grande,--a miserably squalid nook
of houses,--lies on the borders of a beautiful bay which is shut in on
the south, east, and west by mountains, one of which, directly in the
rear of the settlement, appears like an old fortress, and has a cloud
continually resting upon its summit. The bay itself opens to the north,
from which quarter one gets a cool sea-breeze; and in the distance,
through a yellowish gray, dusty atmosphere are seen the mountains of
St. Antonio. It is said that this peculiar atmosphere is produced by an
impalpable sand blown by the wind from the African coast.
There are but few white people in this colony, but the African race are
quite numerous. We were coaled by these people, who are not slaves,
but, in common with the whites, are always spoken of as Portuguese.
There are slaves on some of these islands, but the Portuguese
Government some two or three years ago passed a law manumitting them
in fourteen years. They speak a _patois_ of Portuguese, English, and
French, mingled with their African dialect. Little boats lying just
under the stern of our vessel were filled with these people, all
chatting glibly, and most curiously interlarding their conversation
with an occasional word of English or French, which only made their
unintelligible jargon seem the more rude and barbarous. The houses
had a most miserable appearance, and were stuccoed in the Oriental
style with a kind of dirty yellow or cream-colored chunam. The place
boasts of one Romish church, the priests of which are Africans, who
have been educated and prepared for the position which they occupy by
Portuguese missionaries. Some of our passengers visited this church for
the purpose of witnessing a marriage ceremony; but their account of
it, together with the other services performed there, did not impress
us very favorably either in regard to the priests or the people. The
weather was very warm,--the mercury rising as high as 87° in the shade
on reaching the islands. There is very little vegetation here; but we
observed the palm growing before one or two houses in the town, and
we also found some tropical fruits, but they were grown on the more
fertile and productive islands. This island is mostly sterile, while
St. Antonio has some fruitful valleys.
There were two wells a little back of the shores of the bay,--one of
them an Oriental-like fountain, which, with its shrubs and overhanging
trees, was a very attractive object. The life-picture which this
fountain presented at evening, when resorted to by the young women
of the place,--who, filling their water-jars, and placing them on
their heads stepped lightly homeward,--reminded us that we were fast
journeying towards the East.
We displayed the American flag and fired two guns on entering the
harbor; but, although there were two United States vessels, besides
some English and French, lying at anchor within the bay, none of them
noticed us. This, however, was satisfactorily explained when the
English Consul boarded the steamer; for we then learned that we had
been mistaken for the Rebel pirate Sumter, and that our approach, and
entrance into the port, had caused a good deal of commotion in the
little colony, the Home Government of which had but a short time before
sent instructions to the Governor that no privateers, of the so-called
Southern Confederacy, should be permitted to stop in those waters for
coals or other supplies; and the officials, being determined to carry
out these instructions, were already on the point of bringing some guns
from a little fort, perched on the steep mountain-side, and placing
them in a position where they could be brought to bear upon our vessel.
The masters of the United States ships were also, for a short time,
in great trepidation; and one captain of a whaler made ready to slip
his cable as we steamed towards the bay. He hailed from New Bedford;
but, instead of being obliged to run away from us, came on board with
evident pleasure, bringing a boat-load of his men to attend our Sunday
religious services. Before reaching these islands we fell in with
several vessels, but in almost every instance, when our colors were
unfurled, there was no recognition of the civility until the distance
between us was fast increasing; and one vessel in particular we thought
exceedingly ill-bred, in not at all noticing our salutations. It seemed
now to us very evident that we had all along been mistaken for a Rebel
pirate. Our vessel was long, low, and dark-looking; but with all these
suspicious circumstances against us, it seemed as though, whenever we
sighted a strange ship, or were entering a strange port, that a single
glance through a glass at the women and children on our quarter-deck,
would have satisfied any one that our mission was anything but
piratical.
The heat had so increased that on the twelfth day of November the
mercury stood at 89°; but although we were to steam directly into a
region of much fiercer heat, we were glad to hear, at noon, that our
vessel was coaled and nearly ready for sea. Towards evening we took
a last look of the beautiful harbor of Porte au Grande, with its
remarkable surroundings; and steaming out of the bay, found ourselves
the next morning coasting along the island of Fuego,[1] and near to
the foot of a mountain by that name, which is a volcanic peak, and
has given its appellation to the island. It was a matter of regret
that this volcano was not in a state of eruption, as we were not more
than twelve miles from it, and could distinctly trace the rough and
jagged edge of the crater, and the deep seams down which the lava had
formerly flowed to the sea. Another lofty mountain, reminding us, in
its outline, of the best pictures we have of Mount Ararat, loomed up by
the side of Fuego; but no mountain on any of the islands can compare
with the latter either in height or grandeur of appearance.
We passed the southernmost point of Fuego, having the island of St.
Jago, the largest, most populous, and productive of the Cape de Verd
group, on our left. We were too far distant, however, to see the land
distinctly, and before the 15th of the month had left the whole group
far behind, and were nearing the African coast. Shortly after leaving
the islands we were spoken by an English merchantman; and it was quite
interesting to observe (although we were several miles distant from
each other) how easily our captain and his first officer, with the
aid of a glass, translated the nautical signs by means of Marryatt’s
well-devised code of signals. The ship in question was the _Ocean Gem_,
bound for Cape Coast Castle; and the captain wished us to report her at
the first port we entered. Cape Coast Castle brought painfully to mind
the sad fate of L. E. L.,--the gifted Miss Landon; and her own words,--
“But thou dost leave thy memory like a ghost,”--
seemed sadly in keeping while sailing so near the spot where her sudden
death, still somewhat involved in mystery, occurred.
When in the latitude of Sierra Leone and Liberia, we were fifty miles
off the coast of Africa, and our first view of this continent was near
Cape Mesurado. It was a very warm, although a bright and beautiful
tropical morning; and after passing a little south of the Cape we
coasted within eight or ten miles of the shore, having in full view a
region of country most luxuriant in rich tropical verdure. The land is
low near the sea, but rises with gentle undulations in the distance;
and with the aid of a glass the thatched huts of the natives could
be distinctly seen, sprinkled among what seemed to be extensive and
beautiful groves of the palm. Many of these groves stretched back
as far as the eye could reach; and the trees being of magnificent
growth, the landscape presented a scene of the most surpassing beauty.
The sea-shore was dotted with fishermen’s huts; and wherever the eye
turned, vegetation wore an aspect rich and luxurious beyond description.
While admiring one of these lovely landscapes a little after mid-day,
opposite the Grain Coast, several small and frail-looking canoes
suddenly made their appearance upon the waters around us, each one
being paddled by a stout man, and a boy of not more than twelve or
fifteen years. When first seen one of the little craft was making
every effort to reach us; and her sable navigators were, by signs,
trying to induce us to stop and barter with them for fish; but paddle
for dear life, as both old and young Africa seemed to do, they were
disappointed; yet nothing daunted they still persevered in the chase,
their little shuttle-shaped canoe darting beautifully over and between
the waves; until, in the end, they were compelled to give us up and
return. In ten or fifteen minutes, however, another canoe appeared,
as if by magic, still nearer to the vessel; whereupon we were so
importuned that our captain finally gave orders for stopping the
engine, and then called stoutly for Africa to come alongside. This
graceful little bark, like the first, was manned by two persons, whom
we thought to be father and son; and they evidently understood the full
force of the phrases,--“Now come on as fast as you can,” “pull away,”
“paddle hard,” &c. They sat in the bottom of the canoe, and their
paddles, which were made of bamboo, were plied without their moving
the body; being first thrust into the water on one side, and then on
the other, with an extraordinary ease, dexterity, and grace, while
they were approaching us with marvellous speed; now with prow and half
her length in air, then sinking behind a wave we nearly lost sight
of her, but directly would appear the heads and shoulders of these
athletic, dusky people, giving unmistakable proof of possessing some
skill, with much vigorous bone and muscle. On nearing the ship they
made us understand by signs that another of their boats, directly in
the rear, contained a man capable of speaking English; and just then
another canoe was seen coming, if possible, with greater swiftness,
the men paddling and propelling her like athletes, while she darted
through the water with the celerity of an arrow from a well-strung bow;
and being in a moment alongside our vessel the occupants lost no time
in endeavoring to barter their fish for bread and clothes. During the
progress of these negotiations some sea-biscuit was given them, which
they devoured with evident relish.
These fishermen did not have stupid faces, but their countenances
beamed with an intelligent and eager interest when nearing us; not
merely an animal eagerness, nor was it that dull and brutified
expression which some maintain to be a predominant characteristic of
the African in a state of nature.
The vessel being once more under way, one of our Anglo-African friends
complacently waved his hand, and, bowing, said “Adieu!” and when
responded to by some one on board ship, seemed much delighted, and,
as if proud of his knowledge of the English language, animatingly
rejoined,--“Good-night!” A good-night salutation from such a source,
and addressed to us, a company of voyagers from the far-off occident,
who at that moment were in danger of _coup de soleil_ from the mid-day
heat of a blazing tropical sun, afforded us great merriment; and
altogether, our falling in with this strangely unfortunate race broke
pleasantly into the monotony of our sea-life, and gave us new and
interesting topics of thought and conversation. The coast opposite
was about fifty miles from Monrovia, and these fishermen had probably
obtained the little knowledge of English, which they possessed, in
process of intercourse with that settlement. The next night we passed
Cape Palmas,--a point we greatly wished to see,--but the sky was dark,
and no land visible. Before morning, however, we had reached the Gulf
of Guinea, and on the 21st of November passed the most eastern meridian
of Greenwich, crossing the equator the same night.
Our entrance into the South Atlantic was disagreeable in the extreme.
It was the rainy season, which one must experience in order to have
any idea of the discomforts of its damp, chilly, and yet sultry
atmosphere. Everything becomes saturated with moisture, and “the damp,
the mould, the rain,” penetrates into one’s bone and marrow, as well
as into all of one’s personal effects. We found it necessary to put
on woollen garments, although the mercury indicated a temperature of
84° and upwards,--one day reaching even to 93°. Accustomed as all of
us were to great extremes of heat, this weather proved most trying and
debilitating,--the chilly dampness giving us aching limbs; nor was the
blazing tropical sun, which shone forth with its withering heat, after
every shower, less to be dreaded.
The night of the 26th of November was very dark and rainy; and as
we were nearing the port of St. Paul de Loando there was a constant
heaving of the lead, and ringing of the bell for the engine to be put
at half speed, until after midnight; when, not having any pilot, and
it not being sufficiently light to admit of steaming into the bay with
safety, we laid to. At eight bells, the daylight beginning to appear,
we were again on the move, with the shores of Western Africa in full
view; and before breakfast, turning a high, sandy bluff, entered and
anchored within the harbor. We were directly boarded by our Consul, Mr.
Cunningham, and some Portuguese officials; the former of whom remained
to breakfast with us, and was evidently pleased at our arrival. He is
a New Englander, and has lived here, altogether, nine years; having
visited the United States only once during that period. From him we
learned many interesting particulars in regard to this colony and its
inhabitants; but a life here must be disagreeable and solitary in the
extreme, for an Anglo-Saxon, and we only wonder how any of our race can
ever become accustomed to the fierce heat and disagreeable character of
the climate.
We anchored in a spacious and beautiful bay, the shores of which were
very bold and barren. Iron and copper abound in this and the adjacent
regions of country; and the bluffs are composed of a coarse ferruginous
sand, having very dark surfaces, in consequence of the liberal
admixture of iron in the soil. At one point, below the bluff formation,
in a part of a curve of the bay near the sea, this _cuir_-colored sand
is heaped in small pyramids, in shape not unlike those of Upper Egypt.
Little is known of their formation, but every year they become smaller,
and are imperceptibly wasting away. They are four-sided, and the outer
edges of their angles are as smooth and regular as though constructed
of masonry. This, together with their uniformity of position, on the
curve line of the bay, gives them every appearance of having been
formed by the hand of man.
Loando is a well-known Portuguese colony, formerly one of the greatest
slave marts on the coast, and no friend of humanity can enter the port
without indulging in the most painful reminiscences of the sad wrongs
and cruelties formerly perpetrated in these waters. In consequence
of the strict _espionage_, however, which the English Government
now maintains on the high seas, the slave-trade cannot be carried
on successfully; and an English Commissioner, whose presence is not
overmuch relished, is also stationed here, in order to see that the
treaty stipulations are properly regarded. But for this precaution, it
is feared that the Portuguese Government would endeavor to revive their
horrible traffic in human beings at the first favorable opportunity.
The town of Loando is situated on a high, sandy bluff, sloping quite
down to the water, and the houses of the European residents, which are
constructed of sun-dried bricks, with very thick walls, are of two
stories, and furnished with verandas. They are located along the curve
of the bay, so as to command the cool sea-breezes, and are finished
externally with pale yellow chunam. The roofs are flat and tiled, while
those of the natives are thatched. The windows are not glazed, but are
draped with some kind of curtain fabric instead, and in some instances
with a fine matting made by the natives.
There are four churches in the place, one of which--an old cathedral,
but now falling into ruins--was built more than two hundred years ago.
We were informed, however, by a Portuguese officer, that no one but
the priests attend at the morning service of mass; and that only a few
negro women were to be seen at church at any time during the day; and
yet but a few weeks before our arrival there was an importation into
this colony of a bishop and thirty priests, from the mother country.
There is a large, low, and substantially built Custom-house near the
beach, where most of the commercial business is transacted, and nearly
all the importations are sold at auction. The town is lighted with
oil, and as seen of an evening from the quarter-deck of the _Poyang_,
presented quite a brilliant and imposing appearance. It is, however,
fast going to decay,--the slave-trade, which enriched and built it
up, being nearly destroyed; this mart, that once nourished, and was
supported by the ill-gotten gains of cruelty and oppression, has now
lost nearly all outward appearance of thrift and prosperity.
Our attention was particularly arrested, on first entering the harbor,
by the situation of the three forts whose battlements frown over its
waters. One,--the San Pedro, built on the bluff point around which
we sailed on entering the bay,--is in a most commanding position to
guard the channel through which vessels enter from the north. It is
built of brick, with an exterior finish of chunam, like that of the
private houses in the town. The San Francisco stands three quarters of
a mile farther down in the curve of the bay, on a low, sandy point or
beach, extending quite out into the water. This fortification is also
of brick, and is finished with a chunam mixture, which gives it the
appearance of being constructed of a light gray limestone. The last of
these three fortifications--the San Miguel--is built on the extreme and
highest point of the bluff on which the town is situated, and is a much
larger and more formidable structure than either of the other two; and
commanding, as it does, the entire sweep of the bay, can be made a sure
defence for the place from any attacks of vessels of war.
The native population of Loando and the adjacent villages is said to
be 40,000, with only three thousand Portuguese; and of the latter four
hundred are convicts, sent here by the Home Government to garrison the
forts, protect the people, and sustain the laws. (?) There certainly
can be but little confidence inspired by the presence of soldiers
made up of such characters; nor can a colony defended by them be a
very desirable retreat. The Portuguese ladies appear on the promenade
only towards evening, and are then carried in palanquins by their
slaves. The extreme heat did not permit of our making an excursion in
the vicinity of the town, and we saw but little, therefore, of its
natural attractions. The tamarind tree was nourishing, and in full
bloom, a little back on the shores of the bay,--its delicate foliage of
exquisite green contrasting beautifully with the surrounding landscape.
Only a few of the whites speak pure Portuguese, nor can one directly
from the mother country understand the _patois_ in use. It is a
mixture of Portuguese and Congo, but made up more of the latter
than the former. The Portuguese themselves fall into the habit of
using it, and are compelled to do so from necessity, as all their
servants,--slaves,--as well as the rest of the people about them, speak
either this _lingo_ or the pure Congo.
Two vessels bearing the American flag were lying at anchor as we
entered the harbor, one of which,--the _J. T. Dodd_,--a large American
bark, was towed from up the coast a few days previous, by an English
gun-boat that fell in with her while cruising in search of slavers.
She was first seen near Cape Palmas, and her commander (professing
to be the first mate) said that the captain and some of the crew had
gone into the interior to bargain for palm oil and ivory, of which they
proposed taking a cargo. The vessel had formerly been a slaver, and
had already taken two cargoes of slaves from this coast, with the last
of which she was herself taken and sold as a slaver. Her appearance
now was very suspicious; but nothing could be done, as her papers were
all right, and her clearance dated from Cadiz, although her crew were
Portuguese. Having, however, all the appliances for shipping a cargo
of slaves, the gun-boat hovered about her for many days. She was old,
decayed, and in a leaky condition; and her self-styled mate finding
that he could not elude the vigilance of John Bull, finally made a
virtue of necessity, and wisely concluding that his old craft was
unseaworthy, engaged the captain of the gun-boat to tow her into this
port, where she was sold the day after our arrival for $2500.
Here, as at Rio, in South America, the slave boatmen always sing at
their work, and their strangely irregular and monotonous refrains are
heard from early morn until late at night. The coaling of our ship was
done by these men in the following manner: The coals to be shipped
were lying on the shore directly opposite where we were at anchor,
and a gang of slaves rowed lighters to the beach, where there was
another gang of men and women, with native baskets, shaped much like
our New England wooden bowls, and holding nearly half a bushel. These
they filled with coals, and placing them on their heads waded out to
the lighters, into which they deposited their contents. At the ship
the coals were hoisted from the boats in large tubs, by means of a
pulley and tackle; and at the head of the gang doing this work was a
tall Congo, of fine physique and great muscular strength, who, full of
animation, cheered on the men, and acting as a sort of fugleman for the
party, was the first to pull at the tackle and the first to stop, each
time giving the word of command to the rest of the gang. He also led
them in singing their wild and mournful refrains, pulling at the rope,
and keeping excellent time; now assuming the most fantastic and comical
attitudes, and now with the head, body, and hands in motion, keeping
up a sort of half dancing, half stepping movement of the feet, at once
very grotesque and amusing. If at any time a pause in their labors
chanced to occur, this man, waving his hand and throwing back his head,
with delighted expression and a broad grin on his features, began the
singing and dancing with renewed energy, which quickly communicated
itself to the whole gang, and for a few minutes the scene before us
was startlingly wild and weird-like. These people work slowly, and
an overseer was constantly moving about among the shore-gang, with a
whip in one hand, ready, as one of our passengers remarked, to stir
them up the moment they showed any disposition to flag in their labors.
We trust that the day is not far distant when, in our intercourse and
dealings with this unfortunate race, there will be some recognition
of the principle taught by our Saviour’s golden rule,--“As ye would
that men should do to you, do ye also to them likewise.” The most
valuable of these slaves can be purchased on the coast for twelve or
fourteen dollars a head, while at the island of Cuba, and also in most
of the Southern Slave States, previous to the rebellion, they would
have brought as many hundreds,--and one of our party thought that the
leaders of the gang would there be valued as high as two thousand
dollars! None of this unfortunate race that came under our observation
appeared weak either in mind or body, nor did their faces indicate a
vicious and hardened character. Several grades of them visited the
vessel, most of whom were tall, well-formed men, arrayed in all kinds
of African costume--some more or less grotesque in appearance--and many
wearing only the _cummerbund_; while others, bearing themselves with a
manly and reserved air, were elaborately and picturesquely draped in
cotton prints of large figures, and strikingly brilliant colors. We
had two subordinate Custom-house officers on board, night and day, as
long as we remained in port, who were also pure Africans, but dressed
in the European style. All the high officials were Portuguese of
gentlemanly bearing, and wearing the showy uniform of Southern Europe.
We received an early visit from the English Consul, Sir Henry Hartley,
a Post-Captain in the Royal Navy. He is a man quite advanced in
years, having been in the naval service at the time of the fall of
Napoleon, and was also on board the ship that carried him a prisoner
to St. Helena. There was no English mail steamer from this dark,
out-of-the-way corner of the earth, and we were greatly indebted to Sir
Henry for his thoughtful and kind politeness in offering to send our
home mail, with his despatches, to the English Consul at Lisbon, where
they would be forwarded to England, and thence to the United States.
FOOTNOTE:
[1] _Fuego_ is the Portuguese word for fire.