"But what possible pleasure, what possible profit," I can hear the

practical and common-sensible man asking, "is to be gained from

walking--_walking_? Surely walking is the paltriest of sports. Why not

write of riding, driving, rowing, bicycling, motoring, aeroplaning--any

mode of locomotion rather than that of mere trudging?"--Well, in a

technical and paronomasiacal phrase, the question really _solvitur

ambulando_. For one thing, horses have to be baited, boats caulked,

bicycles pumped up, balloons inflated, and motor cars eternally tinkered

at--aeroplanes fly far beyond my welkin. For another thing, not the

least of the practical blessings incident to a walk is that you are

beyond the reach of letters and telegrams and telephones. You are

not likely to be served with a writ when walking; you can laugh at

_capiases_ and injunctions; drafts at sight and judgment summonses

cannot easily overtake you on a trudge. "I have generally found," says

De Quincey, "that, if you are in quest of some certain escape from

Philistines of whatsoever class--sheriff-officers, bores, no

matter what--the surest refuge is to be found amongst hedgerows and

fields."[52] (Had De Quincey lived in the twentieth century, truly he

might have added that it is amongst the fields and hedgerows also

that one gets away from that pest of civilisation, the pene-ubiquitous

advertisement.--And not always even amongst fields and hedgerows, as

the landscape-spoiling hoardings along the routes of our railways prove.

Like Nero, I sometimes wish that the erectors of sky-signs and the

daubers of barns and fences had but one neck that I might ... that I

might--lay upon it a heavy yoke of taxation.--I throw out that hint to

any Finance Minister or Chancellor of the Exchequer that may care to act

upon it.)

But far rather would I reply to my quærist in other words than

mine.--"I went to the woods," says Thoreau, "because I wished to live

deliberately, to front only the essential facts of life.... I wanted to

live deep and suck out all the marrow of life.... Our life is frittered

away by detail.... In the midst of this chopping sea of civilised life,

such are the clouds and storms and quicksands and thousand and one items

to be allowed for that a man has to live, if he would not founder and go

to the bottom and not make his port at all, by dead reckoning, he must

be a great calculator indeed who succeeds."[53]

Hear, too, Henri-Frédéric Amiel:

"_1st February 1854._--A walk. The atmosphere incredibly pure--a

warm, caressing gentleness in the sunshine--joy in one's whole

being.... I became young again, wondering, and simple, as candour

and ignorance are simple. I abandoned myself to life and to nature,

and they cradled me with an infinite gentleness. To open one's heart

in purity to this ever-pure nature, to allow this immortal life of

things to penetrate into one's soul, is at the same time to listen

to the voice of God. Sensation may be a prayer, and self-abandonment

an act of devotion."[54]

Or hear a greater man than these--hear the great Jean-Jacques Rousseau,

he who divided with Voltaire the intellectual realm of the eighteenth

century:

"What I regret most in the details of my life which I have forgotten

is that I did not keep a diary of my travels. Never have I thought

so much, never have I realised my own existence so much, been

so much alive, been so much myself if I may so say, as in those

journeys which I have made alone and afoot. Walking has something in

it which animates and heightens my ideas: I can scarcely think when

I stay in one place; my body must be set a-going if my mind is to

work. The sight of the country, the succession of beautiful scenes,

the great breeze, the good appetite, the health which I gain by

walking, the getting away from inns, the escape from everything

which reminds me of my lack of independence, from everything which

reminds me of my unlucky fate--all this releases my soul, gives me

greater courage of thought, throws me as it were into the midst of

the immensity of the objects of Nature, which I may combine, from

which I may choose at will, which I may make my own carelessly and

without fear. I make use of all Nature as her master; my heart,

surveying one object after another, unites itself, identifies itself

with those in sympathy with it, surrounds itself with delightful

images, intoxicates itself with emotions the most exquisite. If, in

order to seize these, I amuse myself by describing them to myself,

what a vigorous pencil, what bright colours, what energy of

expression they need! Some have, so they say, discerned something

of these influences in my writings, though composed in my declining

years. Ah! if only those of my early youth had been seen! those

which I have composed but never written down!"[55]

Thus wrote the great Jean-Jacques in the calm of his declining years.

Those walking inspirations must have been potent indeed to have left so

lasting an impression.[56]

§ 65

But Thoreau and Amiel and Jean-Jacques Rousseau are perhaps counsellors

of perfection; exemplars too remote for our purpose. Permit me then to

resort to an _argumentum ad hominem_.--I knew a man who one summer tried

to do two and a half men's work in one. For five days in the week it

took him from early in the morning of one day till early in the morning

of the next. On Saturday afternoon he was free, and on Saturday he took

the boat to a village twenty-one miles distant. Sunday afternoon was

devoted (alas, necessarily) again to work,--but in the open air. At

two-thirty on Monday morning he started on his return journey--afoot;

breakfasted halfway in; and was at his desk in as good time as

spirits.--Profit? That early morning walk picked him up for the week.

Pleasure? My dear practical sir, would you had been with him! Would you

had felt the quiet, the serenity, the calming influence of unsullied

Nature; the supreme repose in those early morning hours, the solitude,

the vastness, the expansion of soul and spirit beneath the silent stars,

the quiet morn. He saw the full moon pale and set; he saw great Nature

slowly wake; the sleepy cows knee-deep in clover; the fields begemmed

with dew; the little pools--pools which at noon would be muddy

puddles--glistening like emeralds and garnets in the dawn. By degrees,

growing things were individualised. Each shrub, each creeping thing,

had a life of its own. The veriest weed was exalted into a vegetable

personality which had dealings with the Infinite and the Divine: and

"all flowers in field or forest which unclose their trembling eyelids

to the kiss of day" spake to him.--He was alone--alone with unhurrying,

uncareful Nature. The peace of untold æons entered his soul and couraged

him to battle with the petty and the trivial for five more wearing days

without a qualm.--Profit? Pleasure?--What nag, what buggy, what skiff,

what bike, what motor, what dirigible balloon, or hydro-aeroplane would

have got him that? In simple truth, of all that he learned and did

during those arduous weeks, only those lovely lonely walks live in that

man's memory to-day.--Would that oftener we bathed our thirsty souls in

the dews of the dawn! Would that oftener men gat them away from offices

and counters and desks--nay, from balls and bats and cleeks--away into

the quiet country, where nor strife nor struggle, noble or ignoble,

has place or worth! The world is too much with us. Call-loans--narrow

margins, with a slump in the market--killing races with a dark

horse--quickly changing quotations--prolonged ill luck--unstable

tariffs--strikes and rumours of strikes--such things perturb the human

mind. Well, I know few more efficacious antidotes to mental perturbation

than an early morning walk. It is a psychic as well as a sanitary

investment.

§ 66

It is also a mental tonic--even in homœopathic doses.--I took last

Sunday a little four-mile stroll before breakfast, and its calming and

beneficent influence is with me still. No one was about; I had the whole

country to myself, and I bathed a tired head in the spacious quietude of

earth and sky. From a height I looked over a great and restful country,

across the sleeping town, and far away over the peaceful lake. Above

it all stretched the benevolent heavens, brooding over this pendent

world.--I thought I saw fixity in the midst of motion; substance beneath

evanescence; unity in multiplicity; a sort of goal where everything was

cyclical; an end where all things seemed only means; infinity lurking

in finitude; a divine inhering in the human. After the treadmill of the

week it was uplifting, exalting. I inhaled great draughts of air from

ultra-planetary spaces; I fed on manna fallen from the highest heavens.

This tiny planet, with its trivial cares and duties, vanished from my

eyes, and I cooled my brow in the clouds of the holy of holies.--But

none the less did I recognise the all-importance, to it and to me, of

earth's small cares and duties. Were they not part of that infinite

multiplicity in which lurked that infinite unity? Did they not go to

make up the "spiritual economy"[57] of the cosmos? But I saw them in a

newer light--a larger light than merely solar, and they took on a new

aspect, and declared themselves integral portions of that divine All

without which that divine All would cease to be.

There is something strangely pure and purifying about early morning air.

It is Nature's great steriliser. It is aseptic; and none breathes it

but is more or less cleansed of the taint of noontide life. The noxious

germs of care and anxiety cannot live in it. It is a magnificent

bactericide. Nature is herself then. Even the denizens of Nature seem to

know this, for never is bird or beast more blithesome than at dawn.

§ 67

For lonely souls, for luckless souls, there is, perhaps, after all is

said and done, but one source of solace. "Nothing human," said Eugénie

de Guérin, "nothing human comforts the soul, nothing human supports

it:--

'À l'enfant il faut sa mère,

À mon âme il faut mon Dieu.'"[58]

Well, those who think their God has revealed himself in the Canonical

Books will go to their Bible; those who think he has chosen the

channel of a Church will derive ghostly strength from their spiritual

counsellors; but those who think the Nameless has nowhere so plainly

shown himself as in his works, will seek in the face and lineaments of

Nature that consoling smile which every lonely soul so miserably craves;

and fortunate it is that not over his works, but only over his words,

theologians so wrathfully wrangle.--Art thou cast down, and is thy soul

disquieted within thee? Dost distrust thyself? Has love grown cold? And

hast thou caught on thy leman's lips a sigh not meant for thee? Is there

none to whom thou canst go, on whose bosom to rain out the heavy mist

of tears?--Go thou to Pan; betake thee to the fields; betake thee to

the woods; pour out thy contrite heart at the altar of the universe, and

thou shalt be comforted. What matters it the petty perturbations of the

mind? What signify the paltry upheavings of the heart? Lay thy tired

head on Nature's breast. Friendship may fade, ideals vanish, passion

wane, the darling desire upon which thou hast staked thine all may

prove to have been snatched from thee before thy very eyes.--Take heart.

Always there is at hand the Infinite and the Eternal: about thee, above

thee, in presence of which the petty and the paltry flee away.

I know no more comfortable medicament than the quiet companionship of

Nature. The trees breathe a salutary air. The fields invite to repose.

A calming influence pervades unwalled, unceilinged earth, and there

the crumpled soul has room in which to smooth itself out: the noxious

bacilli which infest its folds are swept away; ill-natured thoughts take

flight. How paltry seems a passing quarrel beneath the boughs of a hoary

oak that has witnessed a hundred fights! How puny a callous rage beneath

the capacious sky!

For, believe me, Great Pan is _not_ dead. Nor, believe me, are any that

go to him in any wise cast out. He cares not of what Church thou art a

child, nor does he fence his tables. Worship at whatsoever shrine thou

choosest, always he will welcome thee to his, for Pan is beloved of all

the gods.

Ach! There comes a time when nothing seems worth while; when gaiety

palls, and even sorrow dulls instead of stirs; when nothing seems of

any use, and one feels inclined to give up, to give up.--To such I would

say, pull on thick boots, clutch a stout stick, and go for a country

walk--rain or shine.--It sounds a preposterous remedy, but try it.

Nature never gives up. Not a pygmy weed, trodden under foot of man, and

covered up and overwhelmed with rival growths, but battles for its life

with vim. Nor does it ask for what it battles. Neither does it question

why more favoured plants are so carefully nurtured, and it, poor thing,

is dragged up by the roots.--Take a country walk, and look at the weeds

if at nothing else.

And remember, this is a legitimate remedy, preposterous though

it may sound. So many prescriptions for the heartache are

illegitimate--stimulants, or narcotics, or stimulant-narcotics: sport,

work, play, hazardous adventure, the gaming-table or the betting-ring,

to say nothing of the cup that inebriates but does not cheer. A country

walk is but "letting Nature have her way," is but giving an opportunity

for the _vis medicatrix naturæ_. Try it; do not, like Naaman, prate

of Abana and Pharpar, rivers of Damascus, but go wash in Jordan seven

times.

XXVII

Is Walking Selfish?

§ 68

But is it not a selfish pleasure, this that is to be gained by rural

peregrination, I shall be asked. Bluntly I answer, No. A country walk

makes one blithesome; and than blithesomeness there is no greater foe

to selfishness. Had Bacon not declared that gardening was the purest of

human pleasures, I should be inclined to give the palm to walking.

We are too gregarious. We live too much in herds, and we consider too

much what the herd will think of our petty individual ways. Civilisation

is not an unmixed boon, and artificial combinations of men taint

the natural simplicity of the race. In combining together for mutual

protection against a common foe we forget that sometimes a man's foes

are those of his own household. Each feels that the eyes of the world

are upon him, and always he is subconsciously occupied in conforming

himself to the world. A political community not only curtails the

individual's freedom of action for the good of the whole, it curtails

also his freedom of thought and manner. What is the result? The result

is that "self-consciousness" has taken on a new and sinister meaning.

Instead of denoting the especial and distinguishing characteristic of

emancipated reason, self-consciousness has come to denote a painful

cognisance of the fetters that our fellow-reasoners have put upon

reason. We are the slaves of ourselves. Only the child and the savage

are free to "live deliberately," to "live deep and suck out all the

marrow of life." Long before the child has developed into the grown, and

the savage into the civilised, man, that silent and unseen but tireless

architect, Convention, builds about him an invisible but infrangible

wall of reserve: his spontaneous emotions, his natural affections, his

aspirations and ambitions, must filter through crevices and peepholes

instead of exhaling from him as a rich and original aura.

Already the taint is perceptible in our literature. The centripetal

tendency is not a purely economic one. Commerce and industry draw the

crowds to the cities, and immediately there arises a set of writers who

write only of the city. How large a proportion of our fiction portrays

only the wretched drawing-room intrigue, the wretched rivalries of

wretched citizens. The Epic was buried three hundred years ago. The Ode

is dead. The Lyric is dying. Now we have the Novel and the Problem Play,

the sensational Newspaper and the Picture Magazine. In time, I suppose,

we shall come to the Snapshot and the Paperette. Already we are almost

there.--Was it for this that the mighty Areopagitical pleader for the

Liberty of Unlicensed Printing strove?

I wish that whole populations of crowded cities could be turned out

hebdomadally to take long week-end walks in the country, there to mew

its mighty youth and kindle its undazzled eyes at the full midday beam;

there to slough off the skin of daily toil, cleanse itself from the

dross of money-getting, and learn that there is something in life more

worth living for than the weekly wage, and other joys than those

of _panem et circenses_.--But this is a wild dream. As well try to

rehabilitate the Bacchic dance and Chian wine in place of Football and

beer or Baseball and peanuts.--Yet methinks I have heard of wilder. What

did Jean-Jacques and his school really mean by "back to nature"?

To me, I confess, this polipetal or city-seeking tendency in modern life

(if I may so call it) wears a most serious, a most sinister aspect. So,

I am inclined to think, it did to Ruskin. "I had once purposed," wrote

John Ruskin half-a-century ago, "to show what kind of evidence existed

respecting the possible influence of country life on men; it seeming to

me, then, likely that here and there a reader would perceive this to be

a grave question, more than most which we contend about, political

or social, and might care to follow it out with me earnestly. The day

will assuredly come when men will see that it _is_ a grave question."[59]

If we read history aright, always the bloated city succumbs to the pagan

horde. It is in the crowded city that all that is in the world, the lust

of the flesh, and the lust of the eyes, and the pride of life,[60] have

most free play. And it is in the city, where division of labour is daily

carried to greater extremes, that men's activities as a whole have least

free play. The result is twofold: the nobler emotions are stunted;

the baser passions are stimulated. Socialism (whatever the precise

prescription so labelled may be) is no remedy for this. Perhaps Rousseau

reasoned better than he knew.

In a sense, however--thanks to whatever gods may be!--as a matter of

fact there is quietly going on a constant recurrence to Nature. The

United States of America, Canada, Australia, South Africa--what but

wholesale emigration from over-populous or over-pragmatical centres is

the source and origin of these? Colonisation is the protest against

the social, political, economical, or religious constrictions of the

crowd.--It is precisely these constrictions, my practical quærist, that

I am tempting thee now and again to flee. _De te fabula narratur._

XXVIII

The Pæan of Being

§ 69

Have I too much belauded the country walk? I do not thereby decry

the outdoor sport. The thorough sportsman is the noblest work of God

(apologies to the shade of Alexander Pope!). Athletics, said that

acute philosophical historian, Goldwin Smith, "wash the brain." Well,

sometimes I think a really good country walk cleans the soul. You

get away from rivalries and trivialities; from scandal, gossip, and

paltriness; you get away from your compeers and your neighbours--perhaps

you learn for the first time who your neighbour is--namely, your

fellow-farer in distress, as the Good Samaritan long ago taught; you get

away from barter and commerce, from manners and customs, from forms and

ceremonies; from the thousand and one complications that arise when a

multitude of hearts that do not beat as one try to live in a too close

contiguity. It was only when the inevitable third party appeared upon

the scene (as I think someone must have said) that Adam and Eve ceased

to be good, put on clothes, and hid themselves from the voice of the

Lord God walking in the garden. It is easy to be generous amongst trees

and grass and running water; one feels good 'neath the blue firmament on

the open earth; ghosts vanish that scent the morning air, and glow-worms

pale their uneffectual fire. For to everyone--I care not whether theist,

deist, or atheist--to everyone Nature instinctively, spontaneously,

proclaims herself an infinitely adorable Mystery. If there is anything

above and beyond the ephemeral and the fleeting; if there is somewhere

some immensity of Being, some source of All, would it not be well

sometimes to make haste and bow the head towards the earth and

worship?[61]

Some immensity of Being. It is to this that in reality all Nature

points. The clouds, the skies, the greenery of earth, the myriad forms

of vegetation at our feet, stir as these may the soul to its depths,

they are but single chords in the orchestra of Life. It is the great

pæan of Being that Nature chants. By them it is that we perceive "the

immense circulation of life which throbs in the ample bosom of Nature, a

life which surges from an invisible source and swells the veins of

this universe."[62] Through them it is that we detect the enormous

but incomprehensible unity which underlies this incommensurable

multiplicity. The wavelet's plash; the purl of the rill; the sough of

the wind in the pines--these are but notes in the divine diapason of

Life, of Life singing its cosmic song, unmindful who may hear.--Alas,

that so few hear aught but a thin and scrannel sound!

INDEX

A

Abbott, Charles C., 13

Action, a struggle to overcome space and time, 131

Advertisements, hint as to taxing, 200

Alcohol, proper use of, 142 _et seq._

All, the, 129 _et seq._

Amiel, Henri-Frédéric, 128;

quoted, 201, 202

Aphrodites, the two, 165

Appearance, something behind, 87

Arve, the river, 167

Autumn in Canada, 107 _et seq._

Autumn reveries, 29

Avebury, Lord, quoted, 185, 186

B

Bannock, the, 156

Beans, how to cook, 157, 158

Beauty, 110;

the appeal of, 164 _et seq._;

subjective character of, 165;

various kinds of, _ibid._;

Goethe on, 194;

Shelley on, 195

Being, the pæan of, 223 _et seq._;

immensity of, 225

Belloc, Hilaire, quoted, 151

Beverages, 142 _et seq._

Blood corpuscles, an analogy from, 93 _et seq._

Boots, 135

Borrow, George, 14;

quoted, 160, 161

Browning, Robert, quoted, 163, 164

Buckinghamshire, a walk in, 31 _et seq._

Burma, 15

Burroughs, John, 12;

quoted, 75, 76

Byways, English, 21 _et seq._

C

Calm, Matthew Arnold on, 77

Campbell, Professor W. W., quoted, 177

Canada, spring in, 45 _et seq._;

autumn in, 107 _et seq._;

53 _et seq._;

winter in, 59 _et seq._

Carlyle, Thomas, quoted, 196, 197

Carpenter, Edward, 103;

quoted, 195, 196

Cattle, mountain, 172

Cave man, the, 138, 139

Cities, crowded populations of, 218 _et seq._

Civilisation a mixed boon, 216 _et seq._

Companion, an uncongenial, 113, 114

Conscience, 42 _et seq._

Cosmos, the, 93

Country, the, calming influence of, 127

D

Darwin, Charles, quoted, 170, 171

Death, a change, 95

De Quincey, Thomas, quoted, 199

Details, practical, 152 _et seq._

Dietary, the tramp's, 140 _et seq._

Downs, the Sussex, 25 _et seq._

Drama, a natural, 79 _et seq._

E

East, the fascination of the, 19

Emigration, 222

England, byways in, 22 _et seq._;

a spring morning in, 25 _et seq._

Enthusiasts, cautions for, 181 _et seq._

Euripides, quoted, 194

Evening walks, 78 _et seq._

Evil, origin of, 97 _et seq._

F

Fatigue, a fictitious, 148

Fire, the nomad, 137 _et seq._

Food, 140;

importance of, 149 _et seq._; 154 _et seq._;

details concerning, 153 _et seq._

G

Georgian Bay, the, 53

Glacial epoch, the, 138, 139

Goethe, quoted, 194

Golf and walking, 1 _et seq._;

indictments against, _ibid._;

vindication of, 2;

misapprehension concerning, 2, 3

Guérin, Eugénie de, quoted, 211

Guérin, Maurice de, quoted, 186, 187; 225, 226

H

Haig, Dr Alexander, 145

Harte, Bret, quoted, 159, 160

Hassocks, 25

Hearth, the, 137, 139

Hurstpierpoint, 25

I

Ideal, unrealisability of, 132

Impedimenta, 151

India, 17 _et seq._

Infinite, the, 128;

how that all things point to the, 188 _et seq._

Instincts, primitive, 162 _et seq._

J

Jefferies, Richard, 12;

quoted, 184, 185

K

Kipling, Rudyard, quoted, 170

Kingston Road, the, 119, 120

Knapsack, contents of, 152 _et seq._

L

Landscape, the beauty of, 159 _et seq._

Life, a process, 37 _et seq._;

omnipresent, 42; 95;

an absolute, 96

Literature, modern, 218, 219

M

Mabie, Hamilton Wright, 12, 13

MacLane, Mary, quoted, 160

Meditations, evening, 78 _et seq._

Memories, cosmic, 162

Memory, idea of time dependent on, 92, 93

Milk, value of, 147

Milky Way, the, 56

Morning air, a steriliser, 210

Morning walk, an early, 205; 208

Morning walks, 72 _et seq._

Mountains, peacefulness of, 173, 174

Müller, Max, 112

Multiplicity, subjective character of, 95

Mystery, the, of nature, 39; 85;

Carlyle on, 196, 197

N

Nature, spirituality of, 34 _et seq._;

a universe of subsistences, 51;

unity of, 91; 93;

beauty of, 164 _et seq._;

man's primæval habitat, 171;

the language of, 193, 194;

companionship of, 213

Neo-Platonists, 90

Nilgiris, the, 17

O

"Oberland Chalet, An," quoted, 143

Ontario, lake, 118, 119

Otonabee, river, 48

P

Pantry, the antiquity of the, 155

Pascal, quoted, 101

Plato, quoted, 165

Plotinus, 89, 90

Poynings, village, 25

R

Reason, inadequacy of, 97;

and moral progress, 101, 102

Religious tenets, criterion of, 102

Responsibility, 96, 97

Rhône, the, 167

Rousseau, Jean-Jacques, quoted, 202-204

Ruskin, John, quoted, 161; 220, 221

S

Salève, the Grand, 167 _et seq._

Savoie, Haute, 172

Science, 191

Seclusion, benefits of, 117

Self-consciousness, 217, 218

Sénancour, quoted, 161

Sense, a seventh, 186

Solar system, motion of, 176, 177

"Son of the Marshes, A," 13

Soul, the, 113

Space, subjective character of, 91; 95

Spirit of eternal things, the, 39, 85

Stayner, 53

Stephen, Sir Leslie, 14

Strife, universality of, 176

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