PERU.
[Illustration]
PERUVIAN SKETCHES.
FRIENDLY COUNSELS. GOOD FOR DIGESTION.
A DISAGREEABLE BERTH. AN EYE FOR AN EYE.
A COLORED RECEPTION. WHO KNOWS? (NOSE).
THE NAKED TRUTH. DISCRETION IN VALOR.
A PANAMA LAUNDRESS. BLACK WARRIORS.
A MAN FOR A' HAT. MUSIC HATH CHARMS.
DOMESTIC BLISS. A CHARIOT RACE.
A BIT OF A CHURCH. AN ANTIQUE.
HOT WEATHER. FAMILY ARRANGEMENT.
WHAT AN ASS! HEADS OF THE PEOPLE.
A HAPPY FAMILY. BY THEIR FRUITS.
LAND AT LAST. A BEAST OF BURDEN.
CALLAO CATHEDRAL. A NIGHT ADVENTURE.
A BAGGAGE TRAIN. A RUNAWAY.
CATHEDRAL AT LIMA. THE LIGHT FANTASTIC.
A WATER-CARRIER. A ROOSTER.
A BAG OF CUFFEY. A CHIME OF BELLS.
BIRDS OF A FEATHER. DOG-DAYS.
A CHINA BOWL OF SOUP. PORK BUSINESS.
THING OF BEAUTY. WHEN SHALL WE THREE.
FONDEST HOPES DECAY. UNHAND ME!
RAT-IFICATION MEETING. NOTHING VENTURE.
A BACK SEAT. A GREAT SELL.
AN EXCELLENT VIEW. A BEGGARLY SHOW.
BREAD-BASKETS. A DEAD-HEAD.
THE START--STEAMSHIP "HENRY CHAUNCEY." FROM NEW YORK TO ASPINWALL.
[Illustration: Sea-sickness being a weakness of Our Artist, he
determines to be fore-armed, and accordingly provides himself with a few
simple preventives, warmly recommended by his various friends.]
IN THE CARIBBEAN SEA.
[Illustration: Our Artist, having indulged rather freely in the
different preventives, gets things mixed, and wishes that his friends
and their confounded antidotes were at the bottom of the Dead Sea.]
ARRIVAL AT ASPINWALL.
[Illustration: First impressions of the city and its
inhabitants.--Colored citizens on the dock, awaiting the steamer's
advent.]
ISTHMUS OF DARIEN.
[Illustration: View from the window of a Panama railroad car--showing
the low-neck and short-sleeve style of costume adopted by the youthful
natives of Cruces.--Also a sprightly specimen of the one-eared greyhound
indigenous to the country.]
A VIEW IN PANAMA.
[Illustration: The old and weather-beaten church of Santa Ana--and in
the foreground, with basket on her head, baby under one arm, and bowl of
milk supported by the other, a colored lady of West Indian descent,
vulgarly known as a "Jamaica nigger."]
AN AFTERNOON AT PANAMA.
[Illustration: Deeming it always incumbent upon the traveller to invest
in the products of the country, Our Artist provides himself with a good
sensible Panama hat, and thus with wife and "mutual friend," he
peacefully and serenely meanders around among the suburbs of the city.]
A STREET SCENE IN PANAMA.
[Illustration: Our Artist, with the naked eye, beholds a pig, a
fighting-cock, and a black baby, all tied by the leg, at the humble
doorway of the residence of a colored citizen, in the principal street
of the capital of Central America.]
IN THE BAY OF PANAMA.
[Illustration: Our Artist wanders about the sleepy little neighboring
island, Taboga, where the English steamers lie, and sketches, among
other picturesque bits, the clean little whitewashed cathedral in the
dirty little Broadway of Taboga.]
STEAMSHIP "CHILE." FROM PANAMA TO CALLAO.
[Illustration: Crossing the equinoctial line, Our Artist discovers that
the rays of a vertical sun are anything but bracing and cool.]
PAYTA--A SEAPORT IN PERU.
[Illustration: Our Artist, having understood that this town is chiefly
remarkable for its fine breed of mules, ironically inquires of a native
Venus if this can be considered a good specimen. The N. V. treats Our
Artist with silent, stolid, Indian contempt.]
NATURAL HISTORY IN PERU.
[Illustration: Our Artist visits a coasting-vessel just arrived from
Guayaquil, loaded with every variety of tropical fruit, and a sprinkling
of tame monkeys, parrots, alligators, white herons, iguanas, paroquets,
spotted deer, etc.]
ARRIVAL AT CALLAO--THE HARBOR.
[Illustration: The landing-boat being a trifle too much loaded by the
head, Our Artist finds it somewhat difficult to steer.]
ARCHITECTURE IN CALLAO.
[Illustration: The little one-story Cathedral on the Plaza, which the
earthquakes have so frantically and so vainly tried to swallow up or
tumble down.]
ARRIVAL AT LIMA.
[Illustration: Triumphal entry of Our Artist and his
much-the-better-half; reviving the brilliant days of Pizarro and his
conquering warriors, as they entered the "City of the Kings."--The
Peruvian warriors in the present century, however, conquer but the
baggage, and permit the weary traveller to walk to his hotel at the
tail-end of the procession.]
THE CATHEDRAL AT LIMA.
[Illustration: An after-dinner sketch (rather shaky) from our balcony in
the Hotel Morin, on the Grand Plaza.]
DOMESTICS IN PERU.
[Illustration: One of the waiters at our hotel, clad in the inevitable
_poncho_--A genuine native Peruvian, perhaps a son of "Rolla the
Peruvian," who was "within."]
A PERUVIAN COOK.
[Illustration: Peeping into the kitchen one day, Our Artist perceives
that a costume, cool and negligé, may be improvised by making a hole in
a coffee-bag and getting into it.]
STREETS OF LIMA--CALLE JUDIOS.
[Illustration: Almost every other street in Lima has a stream of filthy
water or open sewer running through the middle of it, offering rich
fishing-grounds to the graceful _gallinazos_ or turkey-buzzards, who
thus constitute the street-cleaning department of the municipal
government.]
CELESTIALS IN PERU.
[Illustration: Our Artist is here seen resisting the tempting offer of a
bowl of what appears to be buzzard soup, in front of one of the Chinese
cook-shops that abound in the neighborhood of the market at Lima.]
DOLCE FAR NIENTE--A DREAM OF PERU.
[Illustration: Our Artist before going to Lima, during little poetical
siestas, had indulged in lovely romantic reveries, the burden of which
he sketches in his mind's eye, Horatio--but]
THE SAD REALITY.
[Illustration: Alas! too frequently his thirsty eye is met only by such
visions as the above--and the lovely beauties of Lima, where are they?]
BEDROOMS IN PERU.
[Illustration: A section of the inner-wall to our chamber at the Hotel
in Lima.--The condition of things at the witching hour of night, judging
by the sounds.]
STREETS OF LIMA.--CALLE PALACIO.
[Illustration: A young Peruvian accompanying its mamma to market in the
morning.]
STREETS OF LIMA--CALLE PLATEROS.
[Illustration: A picturesque little _mirador_ or lookout at the corner
of Calle Plateros and Bodegones, opposite the Hotel Maury, with
balconies _ad lib._]
OCCUPATIONS IN LIMA.
[Illustration: The _panadero_, or baker, as he appears on his mite of a
donkey, rushing round through the streets of Lima, delivering bread to
his customers.]
CARRIAGES AND PAVEMENTS IN LIMA.
[Illustration: Our Artist, after a hearty dinner, extravagantly engages
a three-horse coupé, and goes out for a regular, genuine, native
Peruvian ride.
That his bones are unbroken, and that he is yet alive to tell the tale,
remains to him an unfathomable mystery.]
COSTUMES IN LIMA.--THE SAYA Y MANTO.
[Illustration: Our Artist has heard a good deal about the magnificent
eyes of the Limanian women; but as he never sees more than one eye at a
time, he can't say much about them, with any regard for the truth.]
HEAD-DRESSES IN LIMA.--THE MANTO.
[Illustration: The Señoritas look very prettily sometimes, with their
black mantillas thrown gracefully over their heads, (_See Geographies,
etc._,) but when you come across a party possessing a decided nose, in
profile, the effect is rather startling.]
REVOLUTIONS IN PERU.
[Illustration: Our apartments look out upon the Grand Plaza, where the
fighting usually takes place; and as the windows are mostly broken by
the balls of the last Revolution, (Nov. 6, 1865,) and it's about time
for another, Our Artist gets into ambuscade every time he hears a
fire-cracker in the street.]
THE WAR WITH SPAIN.
[Illustration: Two native and dreadfully patriotic Peruvian soldiers on
review before their superior officer.]
MARTIAL MUSIC IN PERU.
[Illustration: The National Hymn, with variations, as rendered by the
Royal Band in front of President Prado's palace on the Grand Plaza.]
FINE ARTS IN PERU.
[Illustration: A hasty sketch of Mistress Juno and her peacocks, as
represented by fresco in the doorway of a Lima palace--Calle
Ayachucho.]
DARK AGES OF PERU.
[Illustration: The old unfinished church and deserted monastery of San
Francisco de Paula--Calle Malambo.]
LOCOMOTION IN SOUTH AMERICA.
[Illustration: What the country people would do down there, if the
jackasses were only long enough.--What they _do_ do, is but slightly
caricatured by Our Artist.]
HAIR-DRESSING IN LIMA.
[Illustration: Ladies' style as seen at the theatre.
Also Our Artist before and after he had his hair cut in the latest Lima
fashion.]
A FRUIT-STALL AT CHORRILLOS.
[Illustration: Our Artist, as he appeared when stricken with amazement
at the huge clusters of white grapes that are everywhere, for a mere
song, sold in Peru.]
SHOPPING IN PERU.
[Illustration: A Peruvian materfamilias, having bought a few simple
house-keeping articles in town, is here seen returning to her mountain
home, accompanied by her purchases.]
THE FLEAS OF LIMA.
[Illustration: Having been nearly devoured by these carnivorous little
devils, Our Artist sprinkles himself with Turkish flea-powder one night
before retiring, and is charmed at the rapid and parabolic manner with
which they desert him.]
THE LLAMAS OF PERU.
[Illustration: Our Artist had heretofore fancied that it would be
immensely jolly to ride one of these singular beasts of burden; but when
he encounters this one, on a lonely road outside the walls one day, he
begs to be excused.]
TERPSICHORE IN PERU.
[Illustration: Our Artist assists at a mask-ball in the Jardin Otaiza,
and is puzzled at the nationality of the costumes worn by the dancers.]
CHURCH ORNAMENTS IN LIMA.
[Illustration: The statues in the niches and on the spires of the
Cathedral look very well in the daytime; but at night, when the
turkey-buzzards roost on their heads, the solemnity of the thing is
somewhat marred.]
THE BELLS OF LIMA.
[Illustration: Lima is full of churches, and the churches are full of
bells; and as they ring and bang away from dewy eve till early morn,
their cadences are calculated to disturb somewhat the peaceful slumbers
of Our Artist.]
PERUVIAN BARK--IN THE ROUGH.
[Illustration: Our Artist is treated to plenty of this quinine (canine)
salutation, whenever and wherever he pays a visit in Lima.]
TRANSPORTATION IN PERU.
[Illustration: "This pig went to market," but as he wouldn't go
decently, he was tied upon the back of the ever-patient donkey, and so,
_nolens volens_, came to Lima, crossing the bridge over the Rimac, where
Our Artist sketched him.]
PRIESTS AND FRIARS OF LIMA.
[Illustration: A theological discussion of the gravest import takes
place between three jolly Fathers of the Roman Catholic Church--a
Dominican, a Mercedarian, and a Buena-Muertean.
Scene--The square in front of the church of San Francisco, with its
crooked cross.]
ENTOMOLOGY IN SOUTH AMERICA.
[Illustration: Our Artist doesn't want to say anything against the
insects of Peru; but the way in which one of his hands swelled up, after
a bite from some unknown varmit in the night, was, to say the least,
alarming.]
LOTTERIES IN PERU.
[Illustration: Having invested in the semi-monthly Lima lottery, Our
Artist feels so confident of drawing the $4,000 prize, that he gets
extravagant, wears his good clothes, and smokes one-dollar cigars; but a
revulsion of feeling takes place after the drawing produces nothing for
him but blanks.]
CURIOSITIES OF PERU.
[Illustration: Having been informed by a musty old sepulchral monk that
the remains of Pizarro might be seen behind this grating, Our Artist
tremblingly gazes therein--but as it is pitch dark, he doesn't recognize
Pizarro.]
A COUP D'OEIL IN LIMA.
[Illustration: A picturesque view of the great stone bridge over the
rapid river Rimac, showing the towers of the church Desamparados, the
Arch with illuminated clock, and the spire of Santo Domingo.--Sketched
with about ninety-seven Peruvian beggars looking over Our Artist's
shoulder.]
LAST DAY AT LIMA.
[Illustration: A visit to the Museum--which contains a not very
remarkable collection of Peruvian antiquities--and where Our Artist sees
all that remains of the once magnificent Atahualpa, last king of the
Incas.
Alas, poor Yorick! To this complexion must we come at last.--Fit sketch
wherewith to end this strange, eventful history of "Our Artist in
Peru."]