Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed
Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
produced from images available at The Internet Archive)
OUR
ARTIST IN CUBA,
PERU, SPAIN AND ALGIERS.
LEAVES FROM
_THE SKETCH-BOOK OF A TRAVELLER_.
1864-1868.
BY
GEORGE W. CARLETON.
"Let observation, with expansive view,
Survey mankind, from China to Peru."
[Illustration]
NEW YORK:
Copyright, 1877, by
_G. W. Carleton & Co., Publishers_.
LONDON: S. LOW & CO.
MDCCCLXXVII.
OUR ARTIST, [Illustration: colophon] HIS MARK.
CONTENTS.
PAGE
CUBA, 5
PERU, 57
SPAIN, 109
ALGIERS, 131
[Illustration]
AN APOLOGY.
The Author of these unpretending little wayside sketches offers them to
the Public with the hesitating diffidence of an Amateur. The publication
a few years ago, of a portion of the drawings was attended with so
flattering a reception, that a new edition being called for, it is
believed a few more Leaves from the same vagabond sketch-book may not be
intrusive.
The out-of-the-way sort of places in which the Author's steps have led
him, must always present the most enticing subjects for a comic pencil;
and although no attempt is here made to much more than hint at the
oranges and volantes of Cuba, the earthquakes and buzzards of Peru, the
donkeys and beggars of Spain, or the Arabs and dates of Algiers, yet
sketches made upon the spot, with the crispy freshness of a first
impression, cannot fail in suggesting at least a panoramic picture of
such grotesque incidents as these strange Countries furnish.
The drawings are merely the chance results of leisure moments; and Our
Artist, in essaying to convey a ray of information through the glasses
of humor, has simply multiplied with printers' ink his pocket-book of
sketches, which, although caricatures, are exaggerations of actual
events, jotted down on the impulse of the moment, for the same sort of
idle pastime as may possibly lead the reader to linger along its
ephemeral pages.
NEW YORK, _Christmas_, 1877.
PART I.
CUBA.
[Illustration: colophon]
CUBAN SKETCHES.
SICK TRANSIT. THE SPANISH TONGUE.
TWO BOOBIES. AN UNWELCOME VISITOR.
A COLORED HERCULES. AN AGREEABLE BATH.
THE CUBAN JEHU. A CELESTIAL MAID.
IGLESIA SAN FRANCISCO. A STATUE ON A BUST.
A CUBAN MOTIVE. A TAIL UNFOLDED.
AN INFLUENZA. MONEY IN THY PURSE.
FLEE FOR SHELTER. SUGAR AND WATER.
THE RIDE. GREEN FIELDS.
A COCK-FIGHT. A SEGAR WELL-LIGHTED.
RATHER COOL. SHALL REST BE FOUND.
TAKE YOUR PICK. ALL ABOARD.
A SPANISH RETREAT. THE MATANZAS CAVE.
SPIDERS AND RATS. HARD ROAD TO TRAVEL.
BELLIGERENTS. A SHADY RETREAT.
MATERFAMILIAS. A SPANISH GROCER.
CULINARY DEPARTMENT. COLORED HELP.
A BUNDLE OF CLOTHES. VERY MOORISH.
A BUTTON-SMASHER. CHACUN A SON GOUT.
WHITE PANTALOONS. NATURE'S RESTORER.
CARNIVAL ACQUAINTANCE. AGRICULTURAL.
BEAUTY AT THE BALL. A COT IN THE VALLEY.
A DISAPPOINTMENT. A COLORED BEAUTY.
DOLCE FAR NIENTE. CORNER STONES.
LOCOMOTION. A SUDDEN DEPARTURE.
THE START.--THE STEAMSHIP COLUMBIA. AT SEA.
[Illustration: First day out.--The wind freshens up a trifle as we get
outside Sandy Hook; but our artist says he is'nt sea-sick, for he never
felt better in his life.]
IN THE GULF OF MEXICO.
[Illustration: A "Booby"--as seen _from_ the ship's deck.]
[Illustration: A "Booby"--as seen _on_ the ship's deck.]
ARRIVAL AT HAVANA.
[Illustration: A side elevation of the colored gentleman who carried our
luggage from the small boat to the Custom House.]
STREETS OF HAVANA.--CALLE MERCADERES.
[Illustration: The first volante driver that our artist saw in Havana.]
VIEW FROM OUR WINDOW AT THE HOTEL ALMY.
[Illustration: The old Convent and Bell Tower of the Church of San
Francisco,--now used as a Custom House.]
STREETS OF HAVANA.--CALLE TENIENTE RE.
[Illustration: A Cuban Cart and its Motive Power.--Ye patient Donkey.]
AT THE CAFE LOUVRE.
[Illustration: Manners and Customs of a Cuban with a Cold in his Head.]
THE [WICKED] FLEA OF HAVANA.
[Illustration: PART I.--The beast in a torpid condition.]
[Illustration: PART II.--When he "smells the blood of an Englishmun."]
THE NATIONAL VEHICLE OF HAVANA.
[Illustration: Manner and Custom of Harnessing ye Animiles to ye Cuban
Volante.]
A COCK-FIGHT IN CUBA.
[Illustration: I.--Chanticleer as he goes in.]
[Illustration: II.--Chanticleer considerably "played out."]
STREETS OF HAVANA.--CALLE LAMPARILLA.
[Illustration: The cool and airy style in which they dress the rising
colored generation of Havana.]
THE CUBAN TOOTH-PICK.
[Illustration: Two ways of carrying it--behind the ear, and in the
back-hair.]
THE CAPTAIN GENERAL'S QUINTA.
[Illustration: View of the Canal and Cocoa Tree; looking East from the
Grotto.]
THE DOMESTIC INSECTS OF HAVANA.
[Illustration: Agitation of the Better-Half of Our Artist, upon entering
her chamber and making their acquaintance.]
A LITTLE EPISODE IN THE CALLE BARRATILLO.
[Illustration: A slight difference arises between the housekeeper's cat
and the butcher's dog, who has just come out in his summer costume.]
STREETS OF HAVANA.--CALLE COMPOSTELLA.
[Illustration: The Free Negro.--An every-day scene, when the weather is
fine.]
AN INTERIOR IN HAVANA.
[Illustration: Kitchen, chief-cook and bottle-washer in the
establishment of Mrs. Franke, out on the "Cerro."]
HEADS OF THE PEOPLE.
[Illustration: A portrait of the young lady, whose family (after
considerable urging) consents to take in our washing.]
PRIMITIVE HABITS OF THE NATIVES.
[Illustration: Washing in Havana.--$4 00 a dozen in gold.]
WASHING IN HAVANA.
[Illustration: I.--My pantaloons as they went _in_. II.--My pantaloons
as they came _out_.]
CARNIVAL IN HAVANA.
[Illustration: A Masquerade at the Tacon Theatre.--Types of Costume,
with a glimpse of the "Cuban Dance" in the background.]
A MASK BALL AT THE TACON.
[Illustration: Our artist mixes in the giddy dance, and falls
desperately in love with this sweet creature--but]
LATER IN THE EVENING,
[Illustration: When the "sweet creature" unmasks, our Artist suddenly
recovers from his fit of admiration. Alas! beauty is but mask deep.]
STREETS OF HAVANA--CALLE OBRAPIA.
[Illustration: The Cuban Wheelbarrow--In Repose.]
STREETS OF HAVANA--CALLE O'REILLY.
[Illustration: The Cuban Wheelbarrow--In action.]
FIRST HOUR! SECOND HOUR!! THIRD HOUR!!!
[Illustration: Our Artist forms the praiseworthy determination of
studying the Spanish language, and devotes three hours to the
enterprise.]
BED-ROOMS IN CUBA.
[Illustration: The Scorpion of Havana,--encountered in his native
jungle.]
SEA-BATHS IN HAVANA.
[Illustration: Our Artist having prepared himself for a jolly plunge,
inadvertently observes an insect peculiar to the water, and rather
thinks he won't go in just now.]
HOTELS IN HAVANA.
[Illustration: A cheerful Chinese Chambermaid (?) at the Fonda de
Ingleterra, outside the walls.]
HIGH ART IN HAVANA.
[Illustration: A gay (but slightly mutilated) old plaster-of-Paris girl,
that I found in one of the avenues of the Bishop's Garden, on the
"Cerro."]
LOCOMOTION IN THE COUNTRY.
[Illustration: A Cuban Planter going into town with his plunder.]
SHOPPING IN HAVANA.
[Illustration: Our Artist just steps around the corner, to look at a
"sweet thing in fans" that his wife has found.]
[Illustration: RESULT!]
THE NATIONAL BEVERAGE OF HAVANA.
[Illustration: Our Artist indulges in a _panale frio_ (a sort of
lime-ade), at the Café Dominica, and gets so "set up," that he vows he
won't go home till morning.]
THE LIZARDS OF CUBA.
[Illustration: Our Artist, on an entomological expedition in the
Bishop's Garden, is disagreeably surprised to find such sprightly
specimens.]
SMOKING IN HAVANA.
[Illustration: An English acquaintance of Our Artist wants a light for
his paper segar; whereupon the waiter, according to custom, brings a
live coal.]
THE MUSQUITOS OF HAVANA.
[Illustration: A midsummer's night dream.--Our Artist is just the least
bit disturbed in his rest, and gently remonstrates.]
PUBLIC SERVANTS IN CUBA.
[Illustration: A gay and festive Chinese brakeman, on the railroad near
Guines.--The shirt-collar-and-pair-of-spurs style of costume.]
ONE OF THE SENSATIONS IN CUBA.
[Illustration: The Great Cave near Matanzas.--Picturesque House over the
Entrance.]
THE GREAT CAVE NEAR MATANZAS.
[Illustration: A section of the interior--showing the comfortable manner
in which our artist followed the guide, inspected the stalactites, and
comported himself generally.]
THE OUTSKIRTS OF MATANZAS.
[Illustration: One of the Fortifications.--Sketched from the end of the
_Paseo_, on a day hot enough to give anything but a donkey the brain
fever.]
ARCHITECTURE IN MATANZAS.
[Illustration: A romantic little _tienda mista_ (grocery store) on a
corner, in the Calle Ona.]
A _CAFFETAL_ NEAR MATANZAS.
[Illustration: Our Artist becomes dumb with admiration, at the ingenious
manner of toting little niggers.]
THE PICTURESQUE IN MATANZAS.
[Illustration: A singular little bit, out of the Calle Manzana.]
A SUGAR PLANTATION, NEAR THE YUMORI.
[Illustration: Our Artist essays to drink the milk from a green Cocoa:]
[Illustration: Fatal effect.--An uncomfortable sensation!]
A BED-CHAMBER IN MATANZAS.
[Illustration: First night at the "Gran Hotel Leon de Oro."--Our artist
is accommodated with quarters on the ground-floor, convenient to the
court-yard, and is lulled to sleep by a little domestic concert of cats,
dogs, donkeys, parrots and game-cocks.]
ECONOMY IS WEALTH.
[Illustration: Showing the manner in which one ox accomplishes the labor
of two, in San Felipe.]
THE SUBURBS OF CALABAZAR.
[Illustration: A Planter's Hut, and three scraggly Palm Trees in the dim
distance.]
PLANTATIONS NEAR MARIANAO.
[Illustration: A Colored Beauty toting Sugar Cane from the field to the
grinding mill.]
ARCHITECTURE IN HAVANA.
[Illustration: A conglomerate _Esquina_, on the corner of Calle Obispo
and Monserate.]
LAST NIGHT IN HAVANA.
[Illustration: Alarm of Our Artist and Wife, upon going to their room to
pack, and discovering that a Tarantula has taken possession of their
trunk.]