CHAPTER XIX

VEGETABLES

Table showing Composition of Vegetables

Articles Proteid Fat Carbohydrates Mineral matter Water

Artichokes 2.6 .2 16.7 1. 79.5

Asparagus 1.8 .2 3.3 1. 94.

Beans, Lima, green 7.1 .7 22. 1.7 68.5

Beans, green string 2.2 .4 9.4 .7 87.3

Beets 1.6 .1 9.6 1.1 87.6

Brussels sprouts 4.7 1.1 4.3 1.7 88.2

Cabbage 2.1 .4 5.8 1.4 90.3

Carrots 1.1 .4 9.2 1.1 88.2

Cauliflower 1.6 .8 6. .8 90.8

Celery 1.4 .1 3. 1.1 94.4

Corn, green, sweet 2.8 1.1 14.1 .7 81.3

Cucumbers .8 .2 2.5 .5 96.

Eggplant 1.2 .3 5.1 .5 92.9

Kohl-rabi 2. .1 5.5 1.3 91.1

Lettuce 1.3 .4 3.3 1. 94.

Okra 2. .4 9.5 .7 87.4

Onions 4.4 .8 .5 1.2 93.5

Parsnips 1.7 .6 16.1 1.7 79.9

Peas, green 4.4 .5 16.1 .9 78.1

Potatoes, sweet 1.8 .7 27.1 1.1 69.3

Potatoes, white 2.1 .1 18. .9 78.9

Spinach 2.1 .5 3.1 1.9 92.4

Squash 1.6 .6 10.4 .9 86.5

Tomatoes .8 .4 3.9 .5 94.4

Turnips 1.4 .2 8.7 .8 88.9

_W. O. Atwater, Ph.D._

Vegetables include, commonly though not botanically speaking, all plants

used for food except grains and fruits. With exception of beans, peas,

and lentils, which contain a large amount of proteid, they are chiefly

valuable for their potash salts, and should form a part of each day’s

dietary. Many contain much cellulose, which gives needed bulk to the

food. The legumes, peas, beans, and lentils may be used in place of

flesh food.

For the various vegetables different parts of the plant are used. Some

are eaten in the natural state, others are cooked.

Tubers White potatoes and Jerusalem artichokes

Roots Beets, carrots, parsnips, radishes, sweet potatoes, salsify or

oyster plant, and turnips

Bulbs Garlic, onions, and shallots

Stems Asparagus, celery, and chives

Leaves Brussels sprouts, beet greens, cabbages, dandelions, lettuce,

sorrel, spinach, and watercress

Flowers Cauliflower

Fruit Beans, corn, cucumbers, okra, eggplant, peas, lentils, squash,

and tomatoes.

Young, tender vegetables,—as lettuce, radishes, cucumbers, watercress,

and tomatoes,—eaten uncooked, served separately or combined in salads,

help to stimulate a flagging appetite, and when dressed with oil furnish

considerable nutriment.

Beans, and peas when old, should be employed in making purées and soups;

by so doing, the outer covering of cellulose, so irritating to the

stomach, is removed.

Care of Vegetables

Summer vegetables should be cooked as soon after gathering as possible;

in case they must be kept, spread on bottom of cool, dry,

well-ventilated cellar, or place in ice-box. Lettuce may be best kept by

sprinkling with cold water and placing in a tin pail closely covered.

Wilted vegetables may be freshened by allowing to stand in cold water.

Vegetables which contain sugar lose some of their sweetness by standing;

corn and peas are more quickly affected than others. Winter vegetables

should be kept in a cold, dry place. Beets, carrots, turnips, potatoes,

etc., should be put in barrels or piled in bins, to exclude as much air

as possible. Squash should be spread, and needs careful watching; when

dark spots appear, cook at once.

In using canned goods, empty contents from can as soon as opened, lest

the acid therein act on the tin to produce poisonous compounds, and let

stand one hour, that it may become reoxygenated. Beans, peas, asparagus,

etc., should be emptied into a strainer, drained, and cold water poured

over them and allowed to run through. In using dried vegetables, soak in

cold water several hours before cooking. A few years ago native

vegetables were alone sold; but now our markets are largely supplied

from the Southern States and California, thus allowing us fresh

vegetables throughout the year.

Cooking of Vegetables

A small scrubbing-brush, which may be bought for five cents, and two

small pointed knives for preparing vegetables should be found in every

kitchen.

Vegetables should be washed in cold water, and cooked until soft in

boiling salted water; if cooked in an uncovered vessel, their color is

better kept. For peas and beans add salt to water last half hour of

cooking. Time for cooking the same vegetable varies according to

freshness and age, therefore time tables for cooking serve only as

guides.

Mushrooms and Truffles

These are classed among vegetables. Mushrooms, which grow about us

abundantly, may be easily gathered, and as they contain considerable

nutriment, should often be found on the table. While there are hundreds

of varieties, one by a little study may acquaint herself with a dozen or

more of the most common ones which are valuable as food. Consult W.

Hamilton Gibson, “Our Edible Toadstools and Mushrooms.” Many might cause

illness, but only a few varieties of the _Amanita_ family are deadly

poison. Mushrooms require heat and moisture,—a severe drought or very

wet soil being unfavorable for their growth. Never gather mushrooms in

the vicinity of decaying matter. They appear the middle of May, and last

until frost comes. _Campestris_ is the variety always found in market;

French canned are of this family. _Boleti_ are dried, canned, and sold

as _cepes_.

Truffles

Truffles belong to the same family as mushrooms, and are grown

underground. France is the most famous field for their production, from

which country they are exported in tin cans, and are too expensive for

ordinary use.

Artichokes

French artichokes, imported throughout the year, are the ones

principally used. They retail from thirty to forty cents each, and are

cheapest and best in November, December, and January. Artichokes are

appearing in market from California and are somewhat cheaper in price

than the French Artichoke. Jerusalem artichokes are employed for

pickling, and can be bought for fifteen cents per quart.

Boiled Artichokes

Cut off stem close to leaves, remove outside bottom leaves, trim

artichoke, cut off one inch from top of leaves, and with a sharp knife

remove choke; then tie artichoke with a string to keep its shape. Soak

one-half hour in cold water. Drain, and cook thirty to forty-five

minutes in boiling, salted, acidulated water. Remove from water, place

upside down to drain, then take off string. Serve with Béchamel or

Hollandaise Sauce. Boiled Artichokes often constitute a course at

dinner. Leaves are drawn out separately with fingers, dipped in sauce,

and fleshy ends only eaten, although the bottom is edible. Artichokes

may be cut in quarters, cooked, drained, and served with Sauce

Bearnaise. When prepared in this way they are served with mutton.

Fried Artichokes

Sprinkle Boiled Artichokes cut in quarters with salt, pepper, and finely

chopped parsley. Dip in Batter I, fry in deep fat, and drain. In

preparing artichokes, trim off tops of leaves closer than when served as

Boiled Artichokes.

Artichoke Bottoms

Remove all leaves and the choke. Trim bottoms in shape, and cook until

soft in boiling, salted, acidulated water. Serve with Hollandaise or

Béchamel Sauce.

Stuffed Artichokes

Prepare and cook as Boiled Artichokes, having them slightly underdone.

Fill with Chicken Force-meat I or II, and bake thirty minutes in a

moderate oven, basting twice with Thin White Sauce. Remove to serving

dish and pour around Thin White Sauce.

Asparagus

Hothouse asparagus is found in market during winter, but is not very

satisfactory, and is sold for about one dollar per bunch. Oyster Bay

(white asparagus) appears first of May, and commands a very high price.

Large and small green stalk asparagus is in season from first of June to

middle of July, and cheapest the middle of June.

Boiled Asparagus

Cut off lower parts of stalks as far down as they will snap, untie

bunches, wash, remove scales, and retie. Cook in boiling salted water

fifteen minutes or until soft, leaving tips out of water first ten

minutes. Drain, remove string, and spread with soft butter, allowing one

and one-half tablespoons butter to each bunch asparagus. Asparagus is

often broken or cut in inch pieces for boiling, cooking tips a shorter

time than stalks.

Asparagus on Toast

Serve Boiled Asparagus on Buttered or Milk Toast.

Asparagus in White Sauce

Boil asparagus cut in one-inch pieces, drain, and add to White Sauce I,

allowing one cup sauce to each bunch asparagus. Serve in Croustades of

Bread for a vegetable course.

Asparagus à la Hollandaise

Pour Hollandaise Sauce I over Boiled Asparagus.

Asparagus in Crusts

Remove centres from small rolls, fry shells in deep fat, drain, and fill

with Asparagus in White Sauce.

Beans

_String Beans_ that are obtainable in winter come from California;

natives appear in market the last of June and continue until the last of

September. There are two varieties, green (pole cranberry being best

flavored) and yellow (butter bean).

_Shell Beans_, including horticultural and sieva, are sold in the pod or

shelled, five quarts in pod making one quart shelled. They are found in

market during July and August. Common lima and improved lima shell beans

are in season in August and September. Dried lima beans are procurable

throughout the year.

String Beans

Remove strings, and snap or cut in one-inch pieces; wash, and cook in

boiling water from one to three hours, adding salt last half-hour of

cooking. Drain, season with butter and salt.

Shell Beans

Wash, and cook in boiling water from one to one and a half hours, adding

salt last half-hour of cooking. Cook in sufficiently small quantity of

water, that there may be none left to drain off when beans are cooked.

Season with butter and salt.

Cream of Lima Beans

Soak one cup dried beans over night, drain, and cook in boiling salted

water until soft; drain, add three-fourths cup cream, and season with

butter and salt. Reheat before serving.

Boiled Beets

Wash, and cook whole in boiling water until soft; time required being

from one to four hours. Old beets will never be tender, no matter how

long they may be cooked. Drain, and put in cold water that skins may be

easily removed. Serve cut in quarters or slices.

Sugared Beets

4 hot boiled beets

3 tablespoons butter

1½ tablespoons sugar

½ teaspoon salt

Cut beets in one-fourth inch slices, add butter, sugar, and salt; reheat

for serving.

Pickled Beets

Slice cold boiled beets and cover with vinegar.

Beets, Sour Sauce

Wash beets, and cook in boiling salted water until soft. Drain, and

reserve one-half cup water in which beets were cooked. Plunge into cold

water, rub off skins and cut into cubes. Reheat in

=Sour Sauce.= Melt two tablespoons butter, add two tablespoons flour,

and pour on the beet water. Add one-fourth cup, each, vinegar and cream,

one teaspoon sugar, one-half teaspoon salt, and a few grains pepper.

Harvard Beets

Wash twelve small beets, cook in boiling water until soft, remove skins,

and cut beets in thin slices, small cubes, or fancy shapes, using French

vegetable cutter. Mix one-half cup sugar and one-half tablespoon

corn-starch. Add one-half cup vinegar and let boil five minutes. Pour

over beets, and let stand on back of range one-half hour. Just before

serving add two tablespoons butter.

Brussels Sprouts

Brussels sprouts belong to the same family as cabbage, and the small

heads grow from one to two inches apart, on the axis of the entire stem,

one root yielding about two quarts. They are imported, and also grow in

this country, being cheapest and best in December and January.

Brussels Sprouts in White Sauce

Pick over, remove wilted leaves, and soak in cold water fifteen minutes.

Cook in boiling salted water twenty minutes, or until easily pierced

with a skewer. Drain, and to each pint add one cup White Sauce I.

Scalloped Brussels Sprouts

Pick over, remove wilted leaves, and soak in cold water one quart

sprouts. Cook in boiling salted water until soft, then drain. Wash

celery and cut in pieces; there should be one and one-half cups. Melt

three tablespoons butter, add celery, cook two minutes, add three

tablespoons flour, and pour on gradually one and one-half cups scalded

milk; add sprouts and turn mixture into a baking-dish. Cover with

buttered crumbs and bake in a hot oven until crumbs are brown.

Cabbage

There are four kinds of cabbage in the market,—drum-head, sugar-loaf,

Savoy, and purple; and some variety may be found throughout the year.

The Savoy is best for boiling; drum-head and purple for Cole-Slaw. In

buying, select heavy cabbages.

Boiled Cabbage

Take off outside leaves, cut in quarters, and remove tough stalk. Soak

in cold water and cook in an uncovered vessel in boiling salted water,

to which is added one-fourth teaspoon soda; this prevents disagreeable

odor during cooking. Cook from thirty minutes to one hour, drain, and

serve; or chop, and season with butter, salt, and pepper.

Escalloped Cabbage

Cut one-half boiled cabbage in pieces; put in buttered baking-dish,

sprinkle with salt and pepper, and add one cup White Sauce I. Lift

cabbage with fork, that it may be well mixed with sauce, cover with

buttered crumbs, and bake until crumbs are brown.

German Cabbage

Slice red cabbage and soak in cold water. Put one quart in stewpan with

two tablespoons butter, one-half teaspoon salt, one tablespoon finely

chopped onion, few gratings of nutmeg, and few grains cayenne; cover,

and cook until cabbage is tender. Add two tablespoons vinegar and

one-half tablespoon sugar, and cook five minutes.

Cole-Slaw

Select a small, heavy cabbage, take off outside leaves, and cut in

quarters; with a sharp knife slice very thinly. Soak in cold water until

crisp, drain, dry between towels, and mix with Cream Salad Dressing.

Hot Slaw

Slice cabbage as for Cole-Slaw, using one-half cabbage. Heat in a

dressing made of yolks of two eggs slightly beaten, one-fourth cup cold

water, one tablespoon butter, one-fourth cup hot vinegar, and one-half

teaspoon salt, stirred over hot water until thickened.

Carrots

Carrots may always be found in market. New carrots appear last of April,

and are sold in bunches; these may be boiled and served, but carrots are

chiefly used for flavoring soups, and for garnishing, on account of

their bright color. To prepare carrots for cooking, wash and scrape, as

best flavor and brightest color are near the skin.

Carrots and Peas

Wash, scrape, and cut young carrots in small cubes or fancy shapes; cook

until soft in boiling salted water or stock. Drain, add an equal

quantity of cooked green peas, and season with butter, salt, and pepper.

Carrots, Poulette Sauce

Wash, scrape, and cut carrots in strips, cubes, or fancy shapes, cover

with boiling water, let stand five minutes; drain, and cook in boiling

salted water, to which is added one-half tablespoon butter, until soft.

Add to recipe for sauce given under Macédoine of Vegetables à la

Poulette (see p. 308).

Cauliflower

Cauliflowers comprise the stalks and flowerets of a plant which belongs

to the same family as Brussels sprouts and cabbage; they may be obtained

throughout the year, but are cheapest and best in September and October.

In selecting cauliflowers, choose those with white heads and fresh green

leaves; if dark spots are on the heads, they are not fresh.

Creamed Cauliflower

Remove leaves, cut off stalk, and soak thirty minutes (head down) in

cold water to cover. Cook (head up) twenty minutes or until soft in

boiling salted water; drain, separate flowerets, and reheat in one and

one-half cups White Sauce I.

Cauliflower à la Hollandaise

Prepare as for Creamed Cauliflower, using Hollandaise Sauce I instead of

White Sauce.

Cauliflower au Gratin

Place a whole cooked cauliflower on a dish for serving, cover with

buttered crumbs, and place on oven grate to brown crumbs; remove from

oven and pour one cup Thin White Sauce around cauliflower.

Cauliflower à la Parmesan

Prepare as Cauliflower au Gratin. Sprinkle with grated cheese before

covering with crumbs.

Cauliflower à la Huntington

Prepare cauliflower as for boiled cauliflower, and steam until soft.

Separate in pieces and pour over the following sauce:

Mix one and one-half teaspoons mustard, one and one-fourth teaspoons

salt, one teaspoon powdered sugar, and one-fourth teaspoon paprika. Add

yolks three eggs slightly beaten, one-fourth cup olive oil, and one-half

cup vinegar in which one-half teaspoon finely chopped shallot has

infused five minutes. Cook over hot water until mixture thickens. Remove

from range, and add one-half tablespoon curry powder, two tablespoons

melted butter, and one teaspoon finely chopped parsley.

Celery

Celery may be obtained from last of July until April. It is best and

cheapest in December. Celery stalks are green while growing; but the

white celery seen in market has been bleached, with the exception of

Kalamazoo variety, which grows white. To prepare celery for table, cut

off roots and leaves, separate stalks, wash, scrape, and chill in

ice-water. By adding a slice of lemon to ice-water celery is kept white

and made crisp. If tops of stalks are gashed several times before

putting in water, they will curl back and make celery look more

attractive.

Celery in White Sauce

Wash, scrape, and cut celery stalks in one-inch pieces; cook twenty

minutes or until soft in boiling salted water; drain, and to two cups

celery add one cup White Sauce I. This is a most satisfactory way of

using the outer stalks of celery.

Fried Celery, Tomato Sauce

Wash and scrape celery, cut in three-inch pieces, dip in batter, fry in

deep fat, and drain on brown paper. Serve with Tomato Sauce.

=Batter.= Mix one-half cup bread flour, one-fourth teaspoon salt, a few

grains pepper, one-third cup milk, and one egg well beaten.

Chiccory or Endive

Chiccory or endive may be obtained throughout the year, but during

January, February, March, and April supply is imported. It is used only

for salads.

Corn

Corn may be found in market from first of June to first of October.

Until native corn appears it is the most unsatisfactory vegetable.

Native corn is obtainable the last of July, but is most abundant and

cheapest in August. Among the best varieties are Crosby for early corn

and Evergreen for late corn.

Boiled Green Corn

Remove husks and silky threads. Cook ten to twenty minutes in boiling

water. Place on platter covered with napkin; draw corners of napkin over

corn; or cut from cob and season with butter and salt.

Succotash

Cut hot boiled corn from cob, add equal quantity of hot boiled shelled

beans; season with butter and salt; reheat before serving.

Corn Oysters

Grate raw corn from cobs. To one cup pulp add one well-beaten egg,

one-fourth cup flour, and season highly with salt and pepper. Drop by

spoonfuls and fry in deep fat, or cook on a hot, well-greased griddle.

They should be made about the size of large oysters.

Corn Fritters

1 can corn

1 cup flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

2 teaspoons salt

¼ teaspoon paprika

2 eggs

Chop corn, and add dry ingredients mixed and sifted, then add yolks of

eggs beaten until thick, and fold in whites of eggs beaten stiff. Cook

in a frying-pan in fresh hot lard. Drain on paper.

Corn à la Southern

To one can chopped corn add two eggs slightly beaten, one teaspoon salt,

one-eighth teaspoon pepper, one and one-half tablespoons melted butter,

and one pint scalded milk; turn into a buttered pudding-dish and bake in

slow oven until firm.

Chestnuts

French and Italian chestnuts are served in place of vegetables.

Chestnut Purée

Remove shells from chestnuts, cook until soft in boiling salted water;

drain, mash, moisten with scalded milk, season with salt and pepper, and

beat until light. Chestnuts are often boiled, riced, and piled lightly

in centre of dish, then surrounded by meat.

Baked Chestnuts

Remove shells from one pint chestnuts, put in a baking-dish, cover with

Chicken Stock highly seasoned with salt and cayenne, and bake until

soft, keeping covered until nearly done. There should be a small

quantity of stock in pan to serve with chestnuts.

Cucumbers

Cucumbers may be obtained throughout the year, and are generally served

raw. During the latter part of the summer they are gathered and pickled

for subsequent use. Small pickled cucumbers are called gherkins.

Sliced Cucumbers

Remove thick slices from both ends and cut off a thick paring, as the

cucumber contains a bitter principle, a large quantity of which lies

near the skin and stem end. Cut in thin slices and keep in cold water

until ready to serve. Drain, and cover with crushed ice for serving.

Boiled Cucumbers

Old cucumbers may be pared, cut in pieces, cooked until soft in boiling

salted water, drained, mashed, and seasoned, with butter, salt, and

pepper.

Fried Cucumbers

Pare cucumbers and cut lengthwise in one-third inch slices. Dry between

towels, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs

again, fry in deep fat, and drain.

Stuffed Cucumbers

Pare three cucumbers, cut in halves crosswise, remove seeds, and let

stand in cold water thirty minutes. Drain, wipe, and fill with

force-meat, using recipe for Chicken Force-meat I or II, substituting

veal for chicken. Place upright on a trivet in a saucepan. Half surround

with White Stock, cover, and cook forty minutes. Place on thin slices of

dry toast, cut in circular shapes, and pour around one and one-half cups

Béchamel Sauce. Serve as a vegetable course or an entrée.

Fried Eggplant I

Pare an eggplant and cut in very thin slices. Sprinkle slices with salt

and pile on a plate. Cover with a weight to express the juice, and let

stand one and one-half hours. Dredge with flour and sauté slowly in

butter until crisp and brown. Eggplant is in season from September to

February.

Fried Eggplant II

Pare an eggplant, cut in one-fourth inch slices, and soak over night in

cold salted water. Drain, let stand in cold water one-half hour, drain

again, and dry between towels. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in

batter, or dip in flour, egg, and crumbs, and fry in deep fat.

Stuffed Eggplant

Cook eggplant fifteen minutes in boiling salted water to cover. Cut a

slice from top, and with a spoon remove pulp, taking care not to work

too closely to skin. Chop pulp, and add one cup soft stale bread crumbs.

Melt two tablespoons butter, add one-half tablespoon finely chopped

onion, and cook five minutes, or try out three slices of bacon, using

bacon fat in place of butter. Add to chopped pulp and bread, season with

salt and pepper, and if necessary moisten with a little stock or water;

cook five minutes, cool slightly, and add one beaten egg. Refill

eggplant, cover with buttered bread crumbs, and bake twenty-five minutes

in a hot oven.

Scalloped Eggplant

Pare an eggplant and cut in two-thirds inch cubes. Cook in a small

quantity of boiling water until soft, then drain. Cook two tablespoons

butter with one-half onion, finely chopped, until yellow, add

three-fourths tablespoon finely chopped parsley and eggplant. Turn into

a buttered baking-dish. Cover with buttered crumbs and bake until crumbs

are brown.

Greens

Hothouse beet greens and dandelions appear in market the first of March,

when they command a high price. Those grown out of doors are in season

from middle of May to first of July.

Boiled Beet Greens

Wash thoroughly and scrape roots, cutting off ends. Drain, and cook one

hour or until tender in a small quantity boiling salted water. Season

with butter, salt, and pepper. Serve with vinegar.

Dandelions

Wash thoroughly, remove roots, drain, and cook one hour or until tender

in boiling salted water. Allow two quarts water to one peck dandelions.

Season with butter, salt, and pepper. Serve with vinegar.

Lettuce

Lettuce is obtainable all the year, and is especially valuable during

the winter and spring, when other green vegetables in market command a

high price. Although containing but little nutriment, it is useful for

the large quantity of water and potash salts that it contains, and

assists in stimulating the appetite. Curly lettuce is of less value than

Tennis Ball, but makes an effective garnish.

Lettuce should be separated by removing leaves from stalk (discarding

wilted outer leaves), washed, kept in cold water until crisp, drained,

and so placed on a towel that water may drop from leaves. A bag made

from white mosquito netting is useful for drying lettuce. Wash lettuce

leaves, place in bag, and hang in lower part of ice-box to drain. Wire

baskets are used for the same purpose. Arrange lettuce for serving in

nearly its original shape.

Leeks on Toast

Wash and trim leeks, cook in boiling salted water until soft, and drain.

Arrange on pieces of buttered toast and pour over melted butter,

seasoned with salt and pepper.

Onions

The onion belongs to the same family (Lily) as do _shallot_, _garlic_,

_leek_, and _chive_. Onions are cooked and served as a vegetable. They

are wholesome, and contain considerable nutriment, but are objectionable

on account of the strong odor they impart to the breath, due to volatile

substances absorbed by the blood, and by the blood carried to the lungs,

where they are set free. The common garden onion is obtainable

throughout the year, the new ones appearing in market about the first of

June. In large centres Bermuda and Spanish onions are procurable from

March 1st to June 1st, and are of delicate flavor.

Shallot, leek, garlic, and chive are principally used to give additional

flavor to food. Shallot, garlic, and chive are used, to some extent, in

making salads.

Boiled Onions

Put onions in cold water and remove skins while under water. Drain, put

in a saucepan, and cover with boiling salted water; boil five minutes,

drain, and again cover with boiling salted water. Cook one hour or until

soft, but not broken. Drain, add a small quantity of milk, cook five

minutes, and season with butter, salt, and pepper.

Onions in Cream

Prepare and cook as Boiled Onions, changing the water twice during

boiling; drain, and cover with Cream or Thin White Sauce.

Scalloped Onions

Cut Boiled Onions in quarters. Put in a buttered baking-dish, cover with

White Sauce I, sprinkle with buttered cracker crumbs, and place on

centre grate in oven to brown crumbs.

Glazed Onions

Peel small silver skinned onions, and cook in boiling water fifteen

minutes. Drain, dry on cheese-cloth, put in a buttered baking-dish, add

highly seasoned brown stock to cover bottom of dish, sprinkle with

sugar, and bake until soft, basting with stock in pan.

Fried Onions

Remove skins from four medium-sized onions. Cut in thin slices and put

in a hot omelet pan with one and one-half tablespoons butter. Cook until

brown, occasionally shaking pan that onions may not burn, or turn

onions, using a fork. Sprinkle with salt one minute before taking from

fire.

French Fried Onions

Peel onions, cut in one-fourth inch slices, and separate into rings. Dip

in milk, drain, and dip in flour. Fry in deep fat, drain on brown paper,

and sprinkle with salt.

Stuffed Onions

Remove skins from onions, and parboil ten minutes in boiling salted

water to cover. Turn upside down to cool, and remove part of centres.

Fill cavities with equal parts of finely chopped cooked chicken, stale

soft bread crumbs, and finely chopped onion which was removed, seasoned

with salt and pepper, and moistened with cream or melted butter. Place

in buttered shallow baking-pan, sprinkle with buttered crumbs, and bake

in a moderate oven until onions are soft.

Creamed Oyster Plant (Salsify)

Wash, scrape, and put at once into cold acidulated water to prevent

discoloration. Cut in inch slices, cook in boiling salted water until

soft, drain, and add to White Sauce I. Oyster plant is in season from

October to March.

Salsify Fritters

Cook oyster plant as for Creamed Oyster Plant. Mash, season with butter,

salt, and pepper. Shape in small flat cakes, roll in flour, and sauté in

butter.

Parsnips

Parsnips are not so commonly served as other vegetables; however, they

often accompany a boiled dinner. They are raised mostly for feeding

cattle. Unless young they contain a large amount of woody fibre, which

extends through centre of roots and makes them undesirable as food.

Parsnips with Drawn Butter Sauce

Wash and scrape parsnips, and cut in pieces two inches long and one-half

inch wide and thick. Cook five minutes in boiling salted water, or until

soft. Drain, and to two cups add one cup Drawn Butter Sauce.

Parsnip Fritters

Wash parsnips and cook forty-five minutes in boiling salted water.

Drain, plunge into cold water, when skins will be found to slip off

easily. Mash, season with butter, salt, and pepper, shape in small flat

round cakes, roll in flour, and sauté in butter.

Peas

Peas contain, next to beans, the largest percentage of proteid of any of

the vegetables, and when young are easy of digestion. They appear in

market as early as April, coming from Florida and California, and

although high in price are hardly worth buying, having been picked so

long. Native peas may be obtained the middle of June, and last until the

first of September. The early June are small peas, contained in a small

pod. McLean, the best peas, are small peas in large flat pods. Champion

peas are large, and the pods are well filled, but they lack sweetness.

Marrowfat peas are the largest in the market, and are usually sweet.

Boiled Peas

Remove peas from pods, cover with cold water, and let stand one-half

hour. Skim off undeveloped peas which rise to top of water, and drain

remaining peas. Cook until soft in a small quantity of boiling water,

adding salt the last fifteen minutes of cooking. (Consult Time Table for

Cooking, p. 28). There should be but little, if any, water to drain from

peas when they are cooked. Season with butter, salt, and pepper. If peas

have lost much of their natural sweetness, they are improved by the

addition of a small amount of sugar.

Creamed Peas

Drain Boiled Peas, and to two cups peas add three-fourths cup White

Sauce II. Canned peas are often drained, rinsed, and reheated in this

way.

Pea Timbales

Drain and rinse one can peas, and rub through a sieve. To one cup pea

pulp add two beaten eggs, two tablespoons melted butter, two-thirds

teaspoon salt, one-eighth teaspoon pepper, few grains cayenne, and few

drops onion juice. Turn into buttered moulds, set in pan of hot water,

cover with buttered paper, and bake until firm. Serve with one cup white

sauce to which is added one-third cup canned peas drained and rinsed.

Stuffed Peppers I

6 green peppers

1 onion, finely chopped

2 tablespoons butter

4 tablespoons chopped mushrooms

⅓ cup Brown Sauce

3 tablespoons bread crumbs

Salt and pepper

Buttered bread crumbs

4 tablespoons lean raw ham, finely chopped

Cut a slice from stem end of each pepper, remove seeds, and parboil

peppers, fifteen minutes.

Cook onion in butter three minutes; add mushrooms and ham, and cook one

minute, then add Brown Sauce and bread crumbs. Cool mixture, sprinkle

peppers with salt, fill with cooked mixture, cover with buttered bread

crumbs and bake ten minutes. Serve on toast with Brown Sauce.

Stuffed Peppers II

Prepare peppers as for Stuffed Peppers I. Fill with equal parts of

finely chopped cold cooked chicken or veal, and softened bread crumbs,

seasoned with onion juice, salt, and pepper.

Pumpkins

Pumpkins are boiled or steamed same as squash, but require longer

cooking. They are principally used for making pies.

Radishes

Radishes may be obtained throughout the year. There are round and long

varieties, the small round ones being considered best. They are bought

in bunches, six or seven constituting a bunch. Radishes are used merely

for a relish, and are served uncooked. To prepare radishes for table,

remove leaves, stems, and tip end of root, scrape roots, and serve on

crushed ice. Round radishes look very attractive cut to imitate tulips,

when they should not be scraped; to accomplish this, begin at root end

and make six incisions through skin running three-fourths length of

radish. Pass knife under sections of skin, and cut down as far as

incisions extend. Place in cold water, and sections of skin will fold

back, giving radish a tulip-like appearance.

Spinach

Spinach is cheapest and best in early summer, but is obtainable

throughout the year. It gives variety to winter diet, when most green

vegetables are expensive and of inferior quality.

Boiled Spinach

Remove roots, carefully pick over (discarding wilted leaves), and wash

in several waters to be sure that it is free from all sand. When young

and tender put in a stewpan, allow to heat gradually, and boil

twenty-five minutes, or until tender, in its own juices. Old spinach is

better cooked in boiling salted water, allowing two quarts water to one

peck spinach. Drain thoroughly, chop finely, reheat, and season with

butter, salt, and pepper. Mound on a serving dish and garnish with

slices of “hard-boiled” eggs and toast points. The green color of

spinach is better retained by cooking in a large quantity of water in an

uncovered vessel.

Spinach à la Béchamel

Prepare one-half peck Boiled Spinach. Put three tablespoons butter in

hot omelet pan; when melted, add chopped spinach, cook three minutes.

Sprinkle with two tablespoons flour, stir thoroughly, and add gradually

three-fourths cup milk; cook five minutes.

Purée of Spinach

Wash and pick over one-half peck spinach. Cook in an uncovered vessel

with a large quantity of boiling salted water to which is added

one-third teaspoon soda and one-half teaspoon sugar. Drain, chop finely,

and rub through a sieve. Reheat, add three tablespoons butter, one

tablespoon flour, and one-half cup cream. Arrange on serving dish and

garnish with yolk and white of “hard-boiled” egg and fried bread cut in

fancy shapes.

Spinach (French Style)

Pick over and wash one peck spinach, and cook in boiling salted water

twenty-five minutes. Drain, and finely chop. Reheat in hot pan with four

tablespoons butter to which have been added three tablespoons flour and

two-thirds cup Chicken Stock. Season with one teaspoon powdered sugar,

salt, pepper, and a few gratings each of nutmeg and lemon rind.

Squash

Summer squash, which are in market during the summer months, should be

young, tender, and thin skinned. The common varieties are the white

round and yellow crook-neck. Some of the winter varieties appear in

market as early as the middle of August; among the most common are

Marrow, Turban, and Hubbard. Turban and Hubbard are usually drier than

Marrow. Marrow and Turban have a thin shell, which may be pared off

before cooking. Hubbard Squash has a very hard shell, which must be

split in order to separate squash in pieces, and squash then cooked in

the shell. In selecting winter squash, see that it is heavy in

proportion to its size.

Boiled Summer Squash

Wash squash and cut in thick slices or quarters. Cook twenty minutes in

boiling salted water, or until soft. Turn in a cheese-cloth placed over

a colander, drain, and wring in cheese-cloth. Mash, and season with

butter, salt, and pepper.

Fried Summer Squash I

Wash, and cut in one-half inch slices. Sprinkle with salt and pepper,

dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs again, fry in hot fat, and drain.

Fried Summer Squash II

Follow recipe for Fried Eggplant I.

Steamed Winter Squash

Cut in pieces, remove seeds and stringy portion, and pare. Place in a

strainer and cook thirty minutes, or until soft, over boiling water.

Mash, and season with butter, salt, and pepper. If lacking in sweetness,

add a small quantity of sugar.

Boiled Winter Squash

Prepare as for Steamed Winter Squash. Cook in boiling salted water,

drain, mash, and season. Unless squash is very dry, it is much better

steamed than boiled.

Baked Winter Squash I

Cut in pieces two inches square, remove seeds and stringy portion, place

in a dripping-pan, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and allow for each

square one-half teaspoon molasses and one-half teaspoon melted butter.

Bake fifty minutes, or until soft, in a moderate oven, keeping covered

the first half-hour of cooking. Serve in the shell.

Baked Winter Squash II

Cut squash in halves, remove seeds and stringy portion, place in a

dripping-pan, cover, and bake two hours, or until soft, in a slow oven.

Remove from shell, mash, and season with butter, salt, and pepper.

Tomatoes

Tomatoes are obtainable throughout the year, but are cheapest and best

in September. Hothouse tomatoes are in market during the winter, and

command a very high price, sometimes retailing for one and one-half

dollars a pound.

Southern tomatoes appear as early as May 1st, and although of good

color, lack flavor. Of the many varieties of tomatoes, Acme is among the

best.

Sliced Tomatoes

Wipe, and cover with boiling water; let stand one minute, when they may

be easily skinned. Chill thoroughly, and cut in one-third inch slices.

Stewed Tomatoes

Wipe, pare, cut in pieces, put in stewpan, and cook slowly twenty

minutes, stirring occasionally. Season with butter, salt, and pepper.

Scalloped Tomatoes

Remove contents from one can tomatoes and drain tomatoes from some of

their liquor. Season with salt, pepper, a few drops of onion juice, and

sugar if preferred sweet. Cover the bottom of a buttered baking-dish

with buttered cracker crumbs, cover with tomatoes, and sprinkle top

thickly with buttered crumbs. Bake in a hot oven until crumbs are brown.

Broiled Tomatoes

Wipe and cut in halves crosswise, cut off a thin slice from rounding

part of each half. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in crumbs, egg,

and crumbs again, place in a well-buttered broiler, and broil six to

eight minutes.

Tomatoes à la Crême

Wipe, peel, and slice three tomatoes. Sprinkle with salt and pepper,

dredge with flour, and sauté in butter. Place on a hot platter and pour

over them one cup White Sauce I.

Devilled Tomatoes

3 tomatoes

Salt and pepper

Flour

Butter for sautéing

4 tablespoons butter

2 teaspoons powdered sugar

1 teaspoon mustard

¼ teaspoon salt

Few grains cayenne

Yolk 1 “hard-boiled” egg

1 egg

2 tablespoons vinegar

Wipe, peel, and cut tomatoes in slices. Sprinkle with salt and pepper,

dredge with flour, and sauté in butter. Place on a hot platter and pour

over the dressing made by creaming the butter, adding dry ingredients,

yolk of egg rubbed to a paste, egg beaten slightly, and vinegar, then

cooking over hot water, stirring constantly until it thickens.

Baked Tomatoes I

Wipe, and remove a thin slice from stem end of six smooth, medium-sized

tomatoes. Take out seeds and pulp, and drain off most of the liquid. Add

an equal quantity of cracker crumbs, season with salt, pepper, and a few

drops onion juice, and refill tomatoes with mixture. Place in a buttered

pan, sprinkle with buttered crumbs, and bake twenty minutes in a hot

oven.

Baked Tomatoes II

Wipe six small, selected tomatoes and make two one-inch gashes on

blossom end of each, having gashes cross each other at right angles.

Place in granite-ware pan and bake until thoroughly heated. Serve with

sauce for Devilled Tomatoes, adding, just before serving, one tablespoon

heavy cream.

Stuffed Tomatoes

Wipe, and remove thin slices from stem end of six medium-sized tomatoes.

Take out seeds and pulp, sprinkle inside of tomatoes with salt, invert,

and let stand one-half hour. Cook five minutes two tablespoons butter

with one-half tablespoon finely chopped onion. Add one-half cup finely

chopped cold cooked chicken or veal, one-half cup stale soft bread

crumbs, tomato pulp, and salt and pepper to taste. Cook five minutes,

then add one egg slightly beaten, cook one minute, and refill tomatoes

with mixture. Place in buttered pan, sprinkle with buttered cracker

crumbs, and bake twenty minutes in a hot oven.

Turnips

Turnips are best during the fall and winter; towards spring they become

corky, and are then suitable only for stews and flavoring. The

Ruta-baga, a large yellow turnip, is one of the best varieties; the

large white French turnip and the small flat Purple Top are also used.

Mashed Turnip

Wash and pare turnips, cut in slices or quarters, and cook in boiling

salted water until soft. Drain, mash, and season with butter, salt, and

pepper.

Creamed Turnip

Wash turnips, and cut in one-half inch cubes. Cook three cups cubes in

boiling salted water twenty minutes, or until soft. Drain, and add one

cup White Sauce I.

Turnip Croquettes

Wash, pare, and cut in quarters new French turnips. Steam until tender,

mash, pressing out all water that is possible. This is best accomplished

by wringing in cheese-cloth. Season one and one-fourth cups with salt

and pepper, then add yolks of two eggs slightly beaten. Cool, shape in

small croquettes, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs again, fry in deep fat,

and drain.

Stewed Mushrooms

Wash one-half pound mushrooms. Remove stems, scrape, and cut in pieces.

Peel caps, and break in pieces. Melt three tablespoons of butter, add

mushrooms, cook two minutes; sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with

flour, and add one-half cup hot water or stock. Cook slowly five

minutes.

Stewed Mushrooms in Cream

Prepare mushrooms as for Stewed Mushrooms. Cook with three-fourths cup

cream instead of using water or stock. Add a slight grating of nutmeg,

pour over small finger-shaped pieces of dry toast, and garnish with

toast points and parsley.

Broiled Mushrooms

Wash mushrooms, remove stems, and place caps in a buttered broiler and

broil five minutes, having cap side down first half of broiling. Serve

on circular pieces of buttered dry toast. Put a small piece of butter in

each cap, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve as soon as butter has

melted. Care must be taken, in removing from broiler, to keep mushrooms

cap side up, to prevent loss of juices.

Baked Mushrooms in Cream

Wash twelve large mushrooms. Remove stems, and peel caps. Put in a

shallow buttered pan, cap side up. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, and

dot over with butter; add two-thirds cup cream. Bake ten minutes in a

hot oven. Place on pieces of dry toast, and pour over them cream

remaining in pan.

Sautéd Mushrooms

Wash, remove stems, peel caps, and break in pieces; there should be one

cup of mushrooms. Put two tablespoons butter in a hot omelet pan; when

melted, add mushrooms which have been dredged with flour, few drops

onion juice, one-fourth teaspoon salt, a few grains pepper, and cook

five minutes. Add one teaspoon finely chopped parsley and one-fourth cup

boiling water. Cook two minutes, and serve on dry toast.

Mushrooms à la Sabine

Wash one-half pound mushrooms, remove stems, and peel caps. Sprinkle

with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and cook three minutes in a hot

frying-pan, with two tablespoons butter. Add one and one-third cups

Brown Sauce, and cook slowly five minutes. Sprinkle with three

tablespoons grated cheese. As soon as cheese is melted, arrange

mushrooms on pieces of toast, and pour over sauce. Garnish with parsley.

Mushrooms à l’Algonquin

Wash large selected mushrooms. Remove stems, peel caps, and sauté caps

in butter. Place in a small buttered shallow pan, cap side being up;

place on each a large oyster, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and place

on each a bit of butter. Cook in a hot oven until oysters are plump.

Serve with Brown or Béchamel Sauce.

Mushrooms Allamande

Clean mushroom caps and sauté in butter. Put together in pairs, cover

with Allamande Sauce, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs again, fry in deep

fat, and drain on brown paper.

=Allamande Sauce.= Melt three tablespoons butter, add one-third cup

flour, and pour on gradually one cup White Stock; then add one egg yolk

and season with salt, pepper, and lemon juice.

Stuffed Mushrooms

Wash twelve large mushrooms. Remove stems, chop finely, and peel caps.

Melt three tablespoons butter, add one-half tablespoon finely chopped

shallot and chopped stems, then cook ten minutes. Add one and one-half

tablespoons flour, chicken stock to moisten, a slight grating of nutmeg,

one-half teaspoon finely chopped parsley, and salt and pepper to taste.

Cool mixture and fill caps, well rounding over top. Cover with buttered

cracker crumbs, and bake fifteen minutes in a hot oven.

Mushrooms under Glass I

Cover the bottom of an individual baking-dish with circular pieces of

toasted bread. Arrange mushroom caps on toast, sprinkle with salt and

pepper, dot over with butter, and pour over a small quantity of hot

cream. Cover, and bake twenty minutes.

Individual dishes with bell-shaped glass covers may be bought at

first-class kitchen furnishers. These dishes are sent to table with

covers left on, that the fine flavor of the prepared viand may all be

retained.

Mushrooms under Glass II

2 tablespoons butter

½ tablespoon lemon juice

¼ teaspoon salt

Few grains pepper

¼ teaspoon finely chopped parsley

Bread

¼ cup heavy cream

Sherry wine

Mushrooms

Cream the butter, add lemon juice drop by drop, salt, pepper, and

parsley. Cut bread in circular pieces three-eighths inch thick, then

toast. Put one-half of the sauce on the under side of toast; put toast

on a small baking-dish, pile mushroom caps cleaned and peeled in conical

shape on toast, and pour over cream. Cover with glass and bake about

twenty-five minutes, adding more cream if necessary. Just before serving

add one teaspoon Sherry wine.

Vegetable Soufflé

¼ cup butter

¼ cup flour

⅓ cup cream

⅓ cup water in which vegetables were cooked

1 cup cooked vegetables rubbed through a sieve,—carrots, turnips, or

onions

Yolks 3 eggs

Whites 3 eggs

Salt and pepper

Melt butter, add flour, and pour on gradually cream and water; add

vegetable, yolks of eggs beaten until thick and lemon-colored, and fold

in whites of eggs beaten until stiff; then add seasonings. Turn in a

buttered baking-dish and bake in a slow oven.

Curried Vegetables

Cook one cup each potatoes and carrots, and one-half cup turnip, cut in

fancy shapes, in boiling salted water until soft. Drain, add one-half

cup canned peas, and pour over a sauce made by cooking two tablespoons

butter with two slices onion five minutes, removing onion, adding two

tablespoons flour, three-fourths teaspoon salt, one-half teaspoon curry

powder, one-fourth teaspoon pepper, few grains celery salt, and pouring

on gradually one cup scalded milk. Sprinkle with finely chopped parsley.

Macedoine of Vegetables à la Poulette

Clean carrots and turnips and cut into strips or fancy shapes; there

should be one and one-fourth cups carrots and one-half cup turnips. Cook

separately in boiling salted water until soft. Drain, and add one and

one-fourth cups cooked peas. Reheat in a sauce made of three tablespoons

butter, three tablespoons flour, one cup chicken stock, and one-half cup

cream. Season to taste with pepper and salt, and just before serving add

yolks two eggs and one-half tablespoon lemon juice.

[Illustration:

MACEDOINE OF VEGETABLES À LA POULETTE.—_Page 308._

]

[Illustration:

STUFFED PEPPERS.—_Page 298._

]

[Illustration:

O’BRION POTATOES.—_Page 315._

]

The Boston cooking-school cook book · 第 19 / 39 章