FISH AND MEAT SAUCES
The French chef keeps always on hand four sauces,—White, Brown,
Béchamel, and Tomato,—and with these as a basis is able to make kinds
innumerable. Butter and flour are usually cooked together for thickening
sauces. When not browned, it is called _roux_; when browned, _brown
roux_. The French mix butter and flour together, put in saucepan, place
over fire, stir for five minutes; set aside to cool, again place over
fire, and add liquid, stirring constantly until thick and smooth. Butter
and flour for brown sauces are cooked together much longer, and watched
carefully lest butter should burn. The American cook makes sauce by
stirring butter in saucepan until melted and bubbling, adds flour and
continues stirring, then adds liquid, gradually stirring or beating
until the boiling-point is reached. For Brown Sauce, butter should be
stirred until well browned; flour should be added and stirred with
butter until both are browned before the addition of liquid. The secret
in making a Brown Sauce is to have butter and flour well browned before
adding liquid.
It is well worth remembering that a sauce of average thickness is made
by allowing two tablespoons each of butter and flour to one cup liquid,
whether it be milk, stock, or tomato. For Brown Sauce a slightly larger
quantity of flour is necessary, as by browning flour its thickening
property is lessened, its starch being changed to dextrine. When sauces
are set away, put a few bits of butter on top to prevent crust from
forming.
Thin White Sauce
2 tablespoons butter
1½ tablespoons flour
1 cup scalded milk
¼ teaspoon salt
Few grains pepper
Put butter in saucepan, stir until melted and bubbling; add flour mixed
with seasonings, and stir until thoroughly blended. Pour on gradually
the milk, adding about one-third at a time, stirring until well mixed,
then beating until smooth and glossy. If a wire whisk is used, all the
milk may be added at once.
Cream Sauce
Make same as Thin White Sauce, using cream instead of milk.
White Sauce I
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
1 cup milk
¼ teaspoon salt
Few grains pepper
Make same as Thin White Sauce.
White Sauce II
2 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons flour
1 cup milk
¼ teaspoon salt
Few grains pepper
Make same as Thin White Sauce.
Thick White Sauce (for Cutlets and Croquets)
2½ tablespoons butter
¼ cup corn-starch or
⅓ cup flour
1 cup milk
¼ teaspoon salt
Few grains pepper
Make same as Thin White Sauce.
Velouté Sauce
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
1 cup White Stock
¼ teaspoon salt
Few grains pepper
Make same as Thin White Sauce.
Sauce Allemande
To Velouté Sauce add one teaspoon lemon juice and yolk one egg.
Soubise Sauce
2 cups sliced onions
1 cup Velouté Sauce
½ cup cream or milk
Salt and pepper
Cover onions with boiling water, cook five minutes, drain, again cover
with boiling water, and cook until soft; drain, and rub through a sieve.
Add to sauce with cream. Season with salt and pepper. Serve with mutton,
pork chops, or “hard-boiled” eggs.
Drawn Butter Sauce
⅓ cup butter
3 tablespoons flour
1½ cups hot water
½ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
Melt one-half the butter, add flour with seasonings, and pour on
gradually hot water. Boil five minutes, and add remaining butter in
small pieces. To be served with boiled or baked fish.
Shrimp Sauce
To Drawn Butter Sauce add one egg yolk and one-half can shrimps cleaned
and cut in pieces.
Caper Sauce
To Drawn Butter Sauce add one-half cup capers drained from their liquor.
Serve with boiled mutton.
Egg Sauce I
To Drawn Butter Sauce add two “hard-boiled” eggs cut in one-fourth inch
slices.
Egg Sauce II
To Drawn Butter Sauce add beaten yolks of two eggs and one teaspoon
lemon juice.
Brown Sauce I
2 tablespoons butter
½ slice onion
3 tablespoons flour
1 cup Brown Stock
¼ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
Cook onion in butter until slightly browned; remove onion and stir
butter constantly until well browned; add flour mixed with seasonings,
and brown the butter and flour; then add stock gradually.
Brown Sauce II (Espagnole)
¼ cup butter
1 slice carrot
1 slice onion
Bit of bay leaf
Sprig of thyme
Sprig of parsley
6 peppercorns
5 tablespoons flour
2 cups Brown Stock
Salt and pepper
Cook butter with carrot, onion, bay leaf, thyme, parsley, and
peppercorns, until brown, stirring constantly, care being taken that
butter is not allowed to burn; add flour, and when well browned, add
stock gradually. Bring to boiling-point, strain, and season with salt
and pepper.
Brown Mushroom Sauce I
To one cup Brown Sauce add one-fourth can mushrooms, drained, rinsed,
and cut in quarters or slices.
Brown Mushroom Sauce II
1 can mushrooms
¼ cup butter
½ tablespoon lemon juice
¼ cup flour
2 cups Consommé or Brown Stock
Salt and pepper
Drain and rinse mushrooms and chop finely one-half of same. Cook five
minutes with butter and lemon juice; drain; brown the butter, add flour,
and when well browned, add gradually Consommé. Cook fifteen minutes,
skim, add remaining mushrooms cut in quarters or slices, and cook two
minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Use fresh mushrooms in place of
canned ones when possible.
Sauce Piquante
To one cup Brown Sauce add one tablespoon vinegar, one-half small
shallot finely chopped, one tablespoon each chopped capers and pickle,
and a few grains of cayenne.
Olive Sauce
Remove stones from ten olives, leaving meat in one piece. Cover with
boiling water and cook five minutes. Drain olives, and add to two cups
Brown Sauce I or II.
Orange Sauce
¼ cup butter
¼ cup flour
1⅓ cups Brown Stock
½ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne
Juice 2 oranges
2 tablespoons Sherry wine
Rind of 1 orange, cut in fancy shapes
Brown the butter, add flour, with salt and cayenne, and stir until well
browned. Add stock gradually, and just before serving, orange juice,
Sherry, and pieces of rind.
Sauce à l’Italienne
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Onion │2 tablespoons each, finely chopped
Carrot │
Lean raw ham│
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12 peppercorns
2 cloves
Sprig marjoram
2 tablespoons butter
2½ tablespoons flour
1 cup Brown Stock
1¼ cups white wine
½ tablespoon finely chopped parsley
Cook first six ingredients with butter five minutes, add flour, and stir
until well browned; then add gradually stock and wine. Strain, reheat,
and after pouring around fish sprinkle with parsley.
Champagne Sauce
Simmer two cups Espagnole Sauce until reduced to one and one-half cups.
Add two tablespoons mushroom liquor, one-half cup champagne, and one
tablespoon powdered sugar.
Tomato Sauce I (without Stock)
½ can tomatoes or
1¾ cups fresh stewed tomatoes
1 slice onion
3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons flour
¼ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
Cook onion with tomatoes fifteen minutes, rub through a strainer, and
add to butter and flour (to which seasonings have been added) cooked
together. If tomatoes are very acid, add a few grains of soda. If
tomatoes are to retain their red color it is necessary to brown butter
and flour together before adding the tomatoes.
Tomato Sauce II
½ can tomatoes
1 teaspoon sugar
8 peppercorns
Bit of bay leaf
½ teaspoon salt
4 tablespoons butter
4 tablespoons flour
1 cup Brown Stock
Cook tomatoes twenty minutes with sugar, peppercorns, bay leaf, and
salt; rub through a strainer, and add stock. Brown the butter, add
flour, and when well browned, gradually add hot liquid.
Tomato Sauce III
¼ cup butter
1 slice carrot
1 slice onion
Bit of bay leaf
Sprig of thyme
Sprig of parsley
1 cup stewed and strained tomatoes
1 cup Brown Stock
Salt and pepper
¼ cup flour
Brown the butter with carrot, onion, bay leaf, thyme, and parsley;
remove seasonings, add flour, stir until well browned, then add tomatoes
and stock. Bring to boiling-point, and strain.
Tomato and Mushroom Sauce
2 slices chopped bacon or small quantity uncooked ham
1 slice onion
6 slices carrot
1 bay leaf
2 sprigs thyme
Sprig of parsley
2 cloves
½ teaspoon peppercorns
Few gratings nutmeg
3 tablespoons flour
½ can tomatoes
1½ cups Brown Stock
Salt and pepper
½ can mushrooms
Cook bacon, onion, and carrot five minutes; add bay leaf, thyme,
parsley, cloves, peppercorns, nutmeg, and tomatoes, and cook five
minutes. Add flour diluted with enough cold water to pour; as it
thickens, dilute with stock. Cover, and cook in oven one hour. Strain,
add salt and pepper to taste, and one-half can mushrooms, drained from
their liquor, rinsed, and cut in quarters; then cook two minutes. Use
fresh mushrooms in place of canned ones when possible.
Tomato Cream Sauce
½ can tomatoes
Sprig of thyme
1 stalk celery
1 slice onion
Bit of bay leaf
1 cup White Sauce I
½ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne
¼ teaspoon soda
Cook tomatoes twenty minutes with seasonings; rub through a strainer,
add soda, then White Sauce. Serve with Baked Fish or Lobster Cutlets.
Spanish Sauce
2 tablespoons finely chopped lean raw ham
2 tablespoons chopped celery
2 tablespoons chopped carrot
1 tablespoon chopped onion
¼ cup butter
¼ cup flour
1⅓ cups Brown Stock
⅔ cup stewed and strained tomatoes
Salt and pepper
Cook ham and vegetables with butter until butter is well browned; add
flour, stock, and tomatoes; cook five minutes, then strain. Season with
salt and pepper.
Béchamel Sauce
1½ cups White Stock
1 slice onion
1 slice carrot
Bit of bay leaf
Sprig of parsley
6 peppercorns
¼ cup butter
¼ cup flour
1 cup scalded milk
½ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
Cook stock twenty minutes with onion, carrot, bay leaf, parsley, and
peppercorns, then strain; there should be one cupful. Melt the butter,
add flour, and gradually hot stock and milk. Season with salt and
pepper.
Yellow Béchamel Sauce
To two cups Béchamel Sauce add yolks of three eggs slightly beaten,
first diluting eggs with small quantity of hot sauce, then adding
gradually to remaining sauce. This prevents the sauce from having a
curdled appearance.
Olive and Almond Sauce
3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons flour
1 cup White Stock
½ cup cream
¼ cup shredded almonds
1 teaspoon beef extract
8 olives (stoned and cut in quarters)
½ tablespoon lemon juice
¼ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne
Melt butter, add flour, and pour on gradually White Stock. Just before
serving add remaining ingredients. Serve with boiled or steamed fish.
Oyster Sauce
1 pint oysters
¼ cup butter
¼ cup flour
1 cup milk or Chicken Stock
Salt
Pepper
Oyster liquor
Wash oysters, reserve liquor, heat, strain, add oysters, and cook until
plump. Remove oysters, and make a sauce of butter, flour, oyster liquor,
and milk. Add oysters, and season with salt and pepper.
Cucumber Sauce I
Grate two cucumbers, drain, and season with salt, pepper, and vinegar.
Serve with Broiled Fish.
Cucumber Sauce II
Beat one-half cup heavy cream until stiff, and add one-fourth teaspoon
salt, few grains pepper, and gradually two tablespoons vinegar; then add
one cucumber, pared, chopped, and drained.
Celery Sauce
3 cups celery, cut in thin slices
2 cups Thin White Sauce
Wash and scrape celery before cutting into pieces. Cook in boiling
salted water until soft, drain, rub through a sieve, and add to sauce.
Celery sauce is often made from the stock in which fowl or turkey has
been boiled, or with one-half stock and one-half milk.
Suprême Sauce
¼ cup butter
¼ cup flour
1½ cups hot Chicken Stock
½ cup hot cream
1 tablespoon mushroom liquor
¾ teaspoon lemon juice
Salt and pepper
Make same as Thin White Sauce, and add seasonings.
Maître d’Hôtel Butter
¼ cup butter
½ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
½ tablespoon finely chopped parsley
¾ tablespoon lemon juice
Put butter in a bowl, and with small wooden spoon work until creamy. Add
salt, pepper, and parsley, then lemon juice very slowly.
Tartar Sauce
1 tablespoon vinegar
1 teaspoon lemon juice
¼ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon Worcestershire Sauce
⅓ cup butter
_The Boston Cook Book_
Mix vinegar, lemon juice, salt, and Worcestershire Sauce in a small
bowl, and heat over hot water. Brown the butter in an omelet pan, and
strain into first mixture.
Lemon Butter
¼ cup butter
1 tablespoon lemon juice
Cream the butter, and add slowly lemon juice.
Anchovy Butter
¼ cup butter
Anchovy essence
Cream the butter and add Anchovy essence to taste.
Lobster Butter
¼ cup butter
Lobster coral
Clean, wipe, and force coral through a fine sieve. Put in a mortar with
butter, and pound until well blended. This butter is used in Lobster
Soup and Sauces to give color and richness.
Hollandaise Sauce I
½ cup butter
Yolks 2 eggs
1 tablespoon lemon juice
¼ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne
⅓ cup boiling water
Put butter in a bowl, cover with cold water, and wash, using a spoon.
Divide in three pieces; put one piece in a saucepan with yolks of eggs
and lemon juice, place saucepan in a larger one containing boiling
water, and stir constantly with a wire whisk until butter is melted;
then add second piece of butter, and, as it thickens, third piece. Add
water, cook one minute, and season with salt and cayenne.
Hollandaise Sauce II
½ cup butter
½ tablespoon vinegar or
1 tablespoon lemon juice
Yolks 2 eggs
¼ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne.
_French Chef_
Wash butter, divide in three pieces; put one piece in a saucepan with
vinegar or lemon juice and egg yolks; place saucepan in a larger one
containing boiling water, and stir constantly with a wire whisk. Add
second piece of butter, and, as it thickens, third piece. Remove from
fire, and add salt and cayenne. If left over fire a moment too long it
will separate. If a richer sauce is desired, add one-half teaspoon hot
water and one-half tablespoon heavy cream.
Anchovy Sauce
Season Brown, Drawn Butter, or Hollandaise Sauce with Anchovy essence.
Horseradish Hollandaise Sauce
To Hollandaise Sauce II add one-fourth cup grated horseradish root.
Lobster Sauce I
To Hollandaise Sauce I add one-third cup lobster meat cut in small dice.
Lobster Sauce II
1¼ lb. lobster
¼ cup butter
¼ cup flour
½ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne
½ tablespoon lemon juice
3 cups cold water
Remove meat from lobster, and cut tender claw meat in one-half inch
dice. Chop remaining meat, add to body bones, and cover with water; cook
until stock is reduced to two cups, strain, and add gradually to butter
and flour cooked together, then add salt, cayenne, lemon juice, and
lobster dice.
If the lobster contains coral, prepare Lobster Butter, add flour, and
thicken sauce therewith.
Sauce Béarnaise
To Hollandaise Sauce II add one teaspoon each of finely chopped parsley
and fresh tarragon.
Served with mutton chops, steaks, broiled squabs, smelts, or boiled
salmon.
Sauce Trianon
To Hollandaise Sauce II add gradually, while cooking, one and one-half
tablespoons Sherry wine.
Sauce Figaro
To Hollandaise Sauce II add two tablespoons tomato purée (tomatoes
stewed, strained, and cooked until reduced to a thick pulp), one
teaspoon finely chopped parsley, and a few grains cayenne.
Horseradish Sauce I
3 tablespoons grated horseradish root
1 tablespoon vinegar
¼ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne
4 tablespoons heavy cream
Mix first four ingredients, and add cream beaten stiff.
Horseradish Sauce II
3 tablespoons cracker crumbs
⅓ cup grated horseradish root
1½ cups milk
3 tablespoons butter
½ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
Cook first three ingredients twenty minutes in double boiler. Add
butter, salt, and pepper.
Bread Sauce
2 cups milk
½ cup fine stale bread crumbs
1 onion
6 cloves
½ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne
3 tablespoons butter
½ cup coarse stale bread crumbs
Cook milk thirty minutes in double boiler, with fine bread crumbs and
onion stuck with cloves. Remove onion, add salt, cayenne, and two
tablespoons butter. Usually served poured around roast partridge or
grouse, and sprinkled with coarse crumbs browned in remaining butter.
Rice Sauce
3 tablespoons rice
2 cups milk
½ onion
3 cloves
2 tablespoons butter
Salt and pepper
Wash rice, add to milk, and cook in double boiler until soft. Rub
through a fine strainer, return to double boiler, add onion stuck with
cloves, and cook fifteen minutes. Remove onion, add butter, salt, and
pepper.
Cauliflower Sauce
¼ cup butter
¼ cup flour
1 cup White Stock III
1 cup scalded milk
Cooked flowerets from a small cauliflower
Salt
Pepper
Make same as Thin White Sauce and add flowerets.
Mint Sauce
¼ cup finely chopped mint leaves
½ cup vinegar
1 tablespoon powdered sugar
Add sugar to vinegar; when dissolved, pour over mint and let stand
thirty minutes on back of range to infuse. If vinegar is very strong,
dilute with water.
Currant Jelly Sauce
To one cup Brown Sauce, from which onion has been omitted, add
one-fourth tumbler currant jelly and one tablespoon Sherry wine; or, add
currant jelly to one cup gravy made to serve with roast lamb. Currant
Jelly Sauce is suitable to serve with lamb.
Port Wine Sauce
To one cup Brown Sauce, from which onion has been omitted, add
one-eighth tumbler currant jelly, two tablespoons Port wine, and a few
grains cayenne.
Vinaigrette Sauce
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon paprika
Few grains pepper
1 tablespoon tarragon vinegar
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
6 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon chopped pickles
1 tablespoon chopped green pepper
1 teaspoon chopped parsley
1 teaspoon chopped chives
Mix ingredients in order given.
Sauce Tartare
½ teaspoon mustard
1 teaspoon powdered sugar
½ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne
Yolks 2 eggs
½ cup olive oil
1½ tablespoons vinegar
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Capers │½ tablespoon each, finely chopped
Pickles│
Olives │
Parsley│
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½ shallot, finely chopped
¼ teaspoon powdered tarragon
Mix mustard, sugar, salt, and cayenne; add yolks of eggs, and stir until
thoroughly mixed, setting bowl in pan of ice-water. Add oil, at first
drop by drop, stirring with a wooden spoon or wire whisk. As mixture
thickens, dilute with vinegar, when oil may be added more rapidly. Keep
in cool place until ready to serve, then add remaining ingredients.
Hot Sauce Tartare
½ cup White Sauce I
⅓ cup Mayonnaise
½ shallot, finely chopped
½ teaspoon vinegar
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Capers │½ tablespoon each, finely chopped
Pickles│
Olives │
Parsley│
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To white sauce add remaining ingredients. Stir constantly until mixture
is thoroughly heated, but do not let it come to the boiling-point.
Served with boiled, steamed, or fried fish.
Hot Mayonnaise
Yolks 2 eggs
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon vinegar
¼ cup hot water
Salt
Few grains cayenne
1 teaspoon finely chopped parsley
Add oil slowly to egg yolks, then pour on gradually vinegar and water.
Cook over boiling water until mixture thickens, then add seasonings and
parsley.
Sauce Tyrolienne
To three-fourths cup Mayonnaise add one-half tablespoon each finely
chopped capers and parsley, one finely chopped gherkin, and one-half can
tomatoes, stewed, strained, and cooked until reduced to two tablespoons.
Serve with any kind of fried fish.
Creole Sauce
2 tablespoons chopped onion
4 tablespoons green pepper, finely chopped
2 tablespoons butter
2 tomatoes
¼ cup sliced mushrooms
6 olives, stoned
1⅓ cups Brown Sauce
Salt and pepper
Sherry wine
Cook onion and pepper with butter five minutes; add tomatoes, mushrooms,
and olives, and cook two minutes, then add Brown Sauce. Bring to
boiling-point, and add wine to taste. Serve with broiled beefsteak or
fillet of beef. Boiled rice should accompany the beef, and be served on
same platter.
Russian Sauce
3 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
1 cup White Stock III
¼ teaspoon salt
Few grains pepper
½ teaspoon finely chopped chives
½ teaspoon made mustard
1 teaspoon grated horseradish
¼ cup cream
1 teaspoon lemon juice
Melt butter, add flour, and pour on gradually White Stock; then add
salt, pepper, mustard, chives, and horseradish. Cook two minutes,
strain, add cream and lemon juice. Reheat before serving. Serve with
Beef Tenderloins or Hamburg Steaks.
Sauce Finiste
3 tablespoons butter
½ teaspoon mustard
Few grains cayenne
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1½ teaspoons Worcestershire Sauce
¾ cup stewed and strained tomatoes
Cook butter until well browned, and add remaining ingredients.