CHAPTER I

[Illustration:

TABLE LAID FOR FORMAL DINNER.—_Frontispiece._

]

THE

BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL

COOK BOOK

BY

FANNIE MERRITT FARMER

OF MISS FARMER’S SCHOOL OF COOKERY

AUTHOR OF “CHAFING-DISH POSSIBILITIES,” AND “FOOD AND COOKERY FOR THE

SICK AND CONVALESCENT”

REVISED

WITH ONE HUNDRED AND TWENTY-FIVE NEW RECIPES, THE RECIPES FROM THE

APPENDIX AND THE ADDENDA INTRODUCED IN LOGICAL ORDER THROUGHOUT THE

BOOK, AND ONE HUNDRED HALF-TONE ILLUSTRATIONS

BOSTON

LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY

1910

_Copyright, 1896, 1900, 1901, 1902, 1903, 1904, 1905, 1906_

BY FANNIE MERRITT FARMER

TO

MRS. WILLIAM B. SEWALL,

President of the Boston Cooking School,

IN APPRECIATION OF HER HELPFUL ENCOURAGEMENT AND UNTIRING EFFORTS IN

PROMOTING THE WORK OF SCIENTIFIC COOKERY, WHICH MEANS THE ELEVATION OF

THE HUMAN RACE,

THIS BOOK IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED

BY THE AUTHOR.

_Cookery means the knowledge of Medea and of Circe and of Helen and of

the Queen of Sheba. It means the knowledge of all herbs and fruits and

balms and spices, and all that is healing and sweet in the fields and

groves and savory in meats. It means carefulness and inventiveness and

willingness and readiness of appliances. It means the economy of your

grandmothers and the science of the modern chemist; it means much

testing and no wasting; it means English thoroughness and French art

and Arabian hospitality; and, in fine, it means that you are to be

perfectly and always ladies—loaf givers._—RUSKIN.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

PREFACE

“But for life the universe were nothing; and all that has life

requires nourishment.”

With the progress of knowledge the needs of the human body have not been

forgotten. During the last decade much time has been given by scientists

to the study of foods and their dietetic value, and it is a subject

which rightfully should demand much consideration from all. I certainly

feel that the time is not far distant when a knowledge of the principles

of diet will be an essential part of one’s education. Then mankind will

eat to live, will be able to do better mental and physical work, and

disease will be less frequent.

At the earnest solicitation of educators, pupils, and friends, I have

been urged to prepare this book, and I trust it may be a help to many

who need its aid. It is my wish that it may not only be looked upon as a

compilation of tried and tested recipes, but that it may awaken an

interest through its condensed scientific knowledge which will lead to

deeper thought and broader study of what to eat.

F. M. F.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Chapter Page

I. FOOD 1

II. COOKERY 15

III. BEVERAGES 32

IV. BREAD AND BREAD MAKING 46

V. BISCUITS, BREAKFAST CAKES, AND SHORTCAKES 70

VI. CEREALS 85

VII. EGGS 94

VIII. SOUPS 109

IX. SOUPS WITHOUT STOCK 135

X. SOUP GARNISHINGS AND FORCE-MEATS 145

XI. FISH 151

XII. BEEF 191

XIII. LAMB AND MUTTON 214

XIV. VEAL 226

XV. SWEETBREADS 232

XVI. PORK 235

XVII. POULTRY AND GAME 240

XVIII. FISH AND MEAT SAUCES 265

XIX. VEGETABLES 280

XX. POTATOES 309

XXI. SALADS AND SALAD DRESSINGS 322

XXII. ENTRÉES 348

XXIII. HOT PUDDINGS 390

XXIV. PUDDING SAUCES 406

XXV. COLD DESSERTS 411

XXVI. ICES, ICE CREAMS, AND OTHER FROZEN DESSERTS 433

XXVII. PASTRY 460

XXVIII. PIES 466

XXIX. PASTRY DESSERTS 475

XXX. GINGERBREADS, COOKIES, AND WAFERS 482

XXXI. CAKE 497

XXXII. CAKE FILLINGS AND FROSTINGS 524

XXXIII. FANCY CAKES AND CONFECTIONS 533

XXXIV. SANDWICHES AND CANAPÉS 549

XXXV. RECIPES FOR THE CHAFING-DISH 556

XXXVI. FRUITS: FRESH, PRESERVED, AND CANNED 567

XXXVII. HELPFUL HINTS FOR THE YOUNG HOUSEKEEPER 586

XXXVIII. SUITABLE COMBINATIONS FOR SERVING 592

BREAKFAST MENUS 592

LUNCHEON MENUS 594

DINNER MENUS 597

MENU FOR THANKSGIVING DINNER 600

MENU FOR CHRISTMAS DINNER 600

A FULL COURSE DINNER 600

MENUS FOR FULL COURSE DINNERS 602

GLOSSARY 605

MISS FARMER’S SCHOOL OF COOKERY 607

INDEX 617

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Table laid for Formal Dinner _Frontispiece_

_Facing Page_

A Group of Kitchen Utensils 14

Measuring Cups and Tea and Table Measuring Spoons 15

The Whipping of Heavy and Thin Cream 15

Five o’Clock Tea Service 34

Chocolate Service 34

Coffee Percolators and Pot 35

After-Dinner Coffee Service 35

Punch Service 44

Claret Cup Service 44

Double Loaves of Milk and Water Bread 45

Boston Brown Bread 45

Parker House Rolls; Salad Rolls; Clover Leaf Biscuit;

Sticks 58

Sweet French Rolls 58

Coffee Cakes (Brioche) 59

Swedish Tea Ring; Swedish Tea Braid 59

Swedish Tea Ring II before baking 64

Swedish Tea Ring II 64

Raised Hominy Muffins 65

Pop-Overs 65

Waffles 80

Strawberry Shortcake 80

Shirred Egg 81

Eggs à la Commodore 81

Planked Eggs 104

Plain Omelet 104

Utensils and Materials for the starting of Brown Soup

Stock 105

Utensils for making Cream Soups 134

Cream Soup and Croûtons ready for serving 134

Croûtons; Imperial Sticks; Mock Almonds 135

Souffléd Crackers 135

Broiled Mackerel garnished with Potato Balls, Cucumber

Ribbons, Slices of Lemon cut in fancy shapes, and

Parsley 160

Hollenden Halibut 160

Stuffed Haddock ready for baking 161

Smelts prepared for cooking 161

Planked Haddock 170

Fillets of Fish à la Bement 170

Oyster Cocktail I and II 171

Clams Union League 186

Oysters à la Ballard 186

Lobster Cocktail 187

Fruit Cocktail 187

Cuts of Beef 194

Cuts of Beef 195

Planks for Planked Dishes 200

Beefsteak à la Maribeau 200

Side of Veal 201

Side of Lamb 201

Kidney Lamb Chop; Rib Chop; French Chop 218

Crown of Lamb, prepared for roasting 218

Saddle of Mutton as purchased 219

Saddle of Mutton Roasted and Garnished 219

Sweetbreads à la Napoli 234

Braised Sweetbreads Eugénie 234

Breslin Potted Chicken in Casserole Dish 235

Chicken Broiled and Garnished 235

Roast Turkey garnished for serving 256

Duck, stuffed and trussed for roasting 256

Stuffed Egg Plant 257

Purée of Spinach 257

Macedoine of Vegetables à la Poulette 308

Stuffed Peppers 308

O’Brion Potatoes 309

Potato Croquettes ready for frying 316

Potato Nests and Potatoes, Somerset Style 316

Cucumber Salad 317

Cucumber Baskets 317

Asparagus Salad, Individual Service 330

Berkshire Salad in Boxes 330

Egg Salad 331

Pear Salad 331

Mexican Jelly 342

Lobster Salad III 342

Oyster Crabs à la Newburg, Individual Service 343

Sweetbread Ramequins 343

Russian Cutlets 374

Dresden Patties 374

Devilled Crabs 375

Pan Broiled Lamb Chops à la Lucullus 375

Chaud-froid of Eggs 386

Capon in Aspic 386

Harvard Pudding served with Crushed Berries and Whipped

Cream 387

Snowballs garnished with Strawberries 387

Toasted Marshmallows 422

Royal Diplomatic Pudding 422

Charlotte Russe 423

Orange Trifle garnished with Whipped Cream, Candied

Orange Peel, and Blossoms 423

Coup Sicilienne 442

Coup à l’Ananas 442

Coffee Ice Cream served in half of Cantaloupe 442

Vanilla Ice Cream served in half of Cantaloupe with

Fruit Garnish 442

Bombe Glacée 443

Junket Ice Cream with Peaches 443

Utensils and Materials for the making of Puff Paste 460

Calvé Tarts 460

Patties garnished with Pastry Rings and Parsley 461

English Meat Pie 461

Cheese Straws 474

Cocoanut Tea Cakes 474

Fruit Baskets 475

Lemon Tartlets 475

Rich Cookies 488

Royal Fans 488

Chocolate Cakes and Crescents 489

Meringues 489

English Rolled Wafers I-II 494

Marguerites I 494

Mocha Cakes and Small Éclairs 495

Ice Cream Cake with Nut Caramel Frosting 495

Cake frosted for St. Valentine’s Day for the use of

Mocha Frosting 532

Ornamental Frosted Cake 532

Dipped Walnuts 533

Bonbons 533

Cream Mints 548

Candied Orange Peel 548

Bread and Butter Folds 549

Noisette Sandwiches 549

Lobster Canapé 554

Canapé Martha 554

Jelly Bag and other necessary utensils for jelly making 555

Marmalades, Jams, and Jellies 555

Utensils necessary for canning 576

Canned Fruits 576

Red Peppers being prepared for canning 577

Pickles ready for serving and Crock for keeping Pickles 577

Table laid for Breakfast 592

Luncheon Table laid for Fish Course 593

Table laid for Formal Luncheon 596

Centrepiece for Luncheon or Dinner Table 597

Centrepiece for Thanksgiving Dinner Table 597

Christmas Dinner Table 600

Table laid for Reception 601

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL COOK BOOK

CHAPTER I

FOOD

Food is anything which nourishes the body. From fifteen to twenty

elements enter into the composition of the body, of which the following

thirteen are considered: oxygen, 62½%; carbon, 21½%; hydrogen, 10%;

nitrogen, 3%; calcium, phosphorus, potassium, sulphur, chlorine, sodium,

magnesium, iron, and fluorine the remaining 3%.

Food is necessary for growth, repair, and energy; therefore the elements

composing the body must be found in the food. The thirteen elements

named are formed into chemical compounds by the vegetable and animal

kingdoms to support the highest order of being, man. All food must

undergo chemical change after being taken into the body, before it can

be utilized by the body; this is the office of the digestive system.

Food is classified as follows:—

1. Proteid (nitrogenous or albuminous)

I. ORGANIC 2. Carbohydrates (sugar and starch)

3. Fats and oils

II. INORGANIC 1. Mineral matter

2. Water

The chief office of proteids is to build and repair tissues. They

furnish energy, but at greater cost than carbohydrates, fats, and oils.

They contain nitrogen, carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, and sulphur or

phosphorus, and include all forms of animal foods (excepting fats and

glycogen) and some vegetable foods. Examples: milk, cheese, eggs, meat,

fish, cereals, peas, beans, and lentils. The principal constituent of

proteid food is albumen. Albumen as found in food takes different names,

but has the same chemical composition; as, _albumen_ in eggs, _fibrin_

in meat, _casein_ in milk and cheese, _vegetable casein_ or _legumen_ in

peas, beans, and lentils; and _gluten_ in wheat. To this same class

belongs gelatin.

The chief office of the carbohydrates is to furnish energy and maintain

heat. They contain carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen, and include foods

containing starch and sugar. Examples: vegetables, fruits, cereals,

sugars, and gums.

The chief office of fats and oils is to store energy and heat to be used

as needed, and constitute the adipose tissues of the body. Examples:

butter, cream, fat of meat, fish, cereals, nuts, and the berry of the

olive-tree.

The chief office of mineral matter is to furnish the necessary salts

which are found in all animal and vegetable foods. Examples: sodium

chloride (common salt); carbonates, sulphates and phosphates of sodium,

potassium, and magnesium; besides calcium phosphates and iron.

Water constitutes about two-thirds the weight of the body, and is in all

tissues and fluids; therefore its abundant use is necessary. One of the

greatest errors in diet is neglect to take enough water; while it is

found in all animal and vegetable food, the amount is insufficient.

CORRECT PROPORTIONS OF FOOD

Age, sex, occupation, climate, and season must determine the diet of a

person in normal condition.

Liquid food (milk or milk in preparation with the various prepared foods

on the market) should constitute the diet of a child for the first

eighteen months. After the teeth appear, by which time ferments have

been developed for the digestion of starchy foods, entire wheat bread,

baked potatoes, cereals, meat broths, and occasionally boiled eggs may

be given. If mothers would use Dr. Johnson’s Educators in place of the

various sweet crackers, children would be as well pleased and better

nourished; with a glass of milk they form a supper suited to the needs

of little ones, and experience has shown that children seldom tire of

them. The diet should be gradually increased by the addition of cooked

fruits, vegetables, and simple desserts; the third or fourth year fish

and meat may be introduced, if given sparingly. Always avoid salted

meats, coarse vegetables (beets, carrots, and turnips), cheese, fried

food, pastry, rich desserts, confections, condiments, tea, coffee, and

iced water. For school children the diet should be varied and abundant,

constantly bearing in mind that this is a period of great mental and

physical growth. Where children have broken down, supposedly from

over-work, the cause has often been traced to impoverished diet. It must

not be forgotten that digestive processes go on so rapidly that the

stomach is soon emptied. Thanks to the institutor of the school

luncheon-counter!

The daily average ration of an adult requires

4½ oz. proteid

2 oz. fat

18 oz. starch

5 pints water

About one-third of the water is taken in our food, the remainder as a

beverage. To keep in health and do the best mental and physical work,

authorities agree that a mixed diet is suited for temperate climates,

although sound arguments appear from the vegetarian. Women, even though

they do the same amount of work as men, as a rule require less food.

Brain workers should take their proteid in a form easily digested. In

consideration of this fact, fish and eggs form desirable substitutes for

meat. The working man needs quantity as well as quality, that the

stomach may have something to act upon. Corned beef, cabbage,

brown-bread, and pastry, will not overtax his digestion. In old age the

digestive organs lessen in activity, and the diet should be almost as

simple as that of a child, increasing the amount of carbohydrates and

decreasing the amount of proteids and fat. Many diseases which occur

after middle life are due to eating and drinking such foods as were

indulged in during vigorous manhood.

WATER (H_{2}O)

Water is a transparent, odorless, tasteless liquid. It is derived from

five sources,—rains, rivers, surface-water or shallow wells, deep wells,

and springs. Water is never found pure in nature; it is nearly pure when

gathered in an open field, after a heavy rainfall, or from springs. For

town and city supply, surface-water is furnished by some adjacent pond

or lake. Samples of such water are carefully and frequently analyzed, to

make sure that it is not polluted with disease germs.

The hardness of water depends upon the amount of salts of lime and

magnesia which it contains. Soft water is free from objectionable salts,

and is preferable for household purposes. Hard water may be softened by

boiling, or by the addition of a small amount of bicarbonate of soda

(NaHCO_{3}).

Water freezes at a temperature of 32° F., boils at 212° F.; when bubbles

appear on the surface and burst, the boiling-point is reached. In high

altitudes water boils at a lower temperature. From 32° to 65° F. water

is termed cold; from 65° to 92° F., tepid; 92° to 100° F., warm; over

that temperature, hot. Boiled water is freed from all organic

impurities, and salts of lime are precipitated: it does not ferment, and

is a valuable antiseptic. Hot water is more stimulating than cold, and

is of use taken on an empty stomach, while at a temperature of from 60°

to 95° F. it is used as an emetic; 90° F. being the most favorable

temperature.

Distilled water is chemically pure and is always used for medicinal

purposes. It is flat and insipid to the taste, having been deprived of

its atmospheric gases.

There are many charged, carbonated, and mineral spring waters bottled

and put on the market; many of these are used as agreeable table

beverages. Examples: Soda Water, Apollinaris, Poland, Seltzer, and

Vichy. Some contain minerals of medicinal value. Examples: Lithia,

saline, and sulphur waters.

SALTS

Of all salts found in the body, the most abundant and valuable is sodium

chloride (NaCl), common salt; it exists in all tissues, secretions, and

fluids of the body, with the exception of enamel of the teeth. The

amount found in food is not always sufficient; therefore salt is used as

a condiment. It assists digestion, inasmuch as it furnishes chlorine for

hydrochloric acid found in gastric juice.

Common salt is obtained from evaporation of spring and sea-water, also

from mines. Our supply of salt obtained by evaporation comes chiefly

from Michigan and New York; mined salt from Louisiana and Kansas.

Salt is a great preservative; advantage is taken of this in salting meat

and fish.

Other salts—lime, phosphorus, magnesia, potash, sulphur, and iron—are

obtained in sufficient quantity from food we eat and water we drink. In

young children, perfect formation of bones and teeth depends upon

phosphorus and lime taken into the system; these are found in meat and

fish, but abound in cereals.

STARCH (C_{6}H_{10}O_{5})

Starch is a white, glistening powder; it is largely distributed

throughout the vegetable kingdom, being found most abundantly in cereals

and potatoes. Being a force-producer and heat-giver it forms one of the

most important foods. Alone it cannot sustain life, but must be taken in

combination with foods which build and repair tissues.

=Test for Starch.= A weak solution of iodine added to cold cooked starch

gives an intense blue color.

Starch is insoluble in cold water, and soluble to but a small extent in

boiling water. Cold water separates starch-grains, boiling water causes

them to swell and burst, thus forming a paste.

Starch subjected to dry heat is changed to _dextrine_

(C_{6}H_{10}O_{5}), British gum. Dextrine subjected to heat plus an acid

or a ferment is changed to _dextrose_ (C_{6}H_{12}O_{6}). Dextrose

occurs in ripe fruit, honey, sweet wine, and as a manufactured product.

When grain is allowed to germinate for malting purposes, starch is

changed to dextrine and dextrose. In fermentation, dextrose is changed

to alcohol (C_{2}H_{5}HO) and carbon dioxide (CO_{2}). Examples: bread

making, vinegar, and distilled liquors.

Glycogen, animal starch, is found in many animal tissues and in some

fungi. Examples: in liver of meat and oysters.

Raw starch is not digestible; consequently all foods containing starch

should be subjected to boiling water or dry heat, and thoroughly cooked.

Starch is manufactured from wheat, corn, and potatoes. =Corn-starch= is

manufactured from Indian corn. =Arrowroot=, the purest form of starch,

is obtained from two or three species of the Maranta plant, which grows

in the West Indies and other tropical countries. Bermuda arrowroot is

most highly esteemed. =Tapioca= is starch obtained from tuberous roots

of the bitter cassava, native of South America. =Sago= is starch

obtained from sago palms, native of India.

SUGAR (C_{12}H_{22}O_{11})

Sugar is a crystalline substance, differing from starch by its sweet

taste and solubility in cold water. As food, its uses are the same as

starch; all starch must be converted into sugar before it can be

assimilated.

The principal kinds of sugar are: cane sugar or _sucrose_, grape sugar

or _glucose_ (C_{6}H_{12}O_{6}), milk sugar or _lactose_

(C_{12}H_{22}O_{11}), and fruit sugar or _levulose_ (C_{6}H_{12}O_{6}).

=Cane sugar= is obtained from sugar cane, beets, and the palm and

sugar-maple trees. Sugar cane is a grass supposed to be native to

Southern Asia, but now grown throughout the tropics, a large amount

coming from Cuba and Louisiana; it is the commonest of all, and in all

cases the manufacture is essentially the same. The products of

manufacture are: molasses, syrup, brown sugar, loaf, cut, granulated,

powdered, and confectioners’ sugar. Brown sugar is cheapest, but is not

so pure or sweet as white grades; powdered and confectioners’ sugars are

fine grades, pulverized, and, although seeming less sweet to the taste,

are equally pure. Confectioners’ sugar when applied to the tongue will

dissolve at once; powdered sugar is a little granular.

Cane sugar when added to fruits, and allowed to cook for some time,

changes to grape sugar, losing one-third of its sweetness; therefore the

reason for adding it when fruit is nearly cooked. Cane sugar is of great

preservative value, hence its use in preserving fruits and milk; also,

for the preparation of syrups.

Three changes take place in the cooking of sugar: first, barley sugar;

second, caramel; third, carbon.

=Grape sugar= is found in honey and all sweet fruits. It appears on the

outside of dried fruits, such as raisins, dates, etc., and is only

two-thirds as sweet as cane sugar. As a manufactured product it is

obtained from the starch of corn.

=Milk sugar= is obtained from the milk of mammalia, but unlike cane

sugar does not ferment.

=Fruit sugar= is obtained from sweet fruits, and is sold as _diabetin_,

is sweeter than cane sugar, and is principally used by diabetic

patients.

GUM, PECTOSE, AND CELLULOSE

These compounds found in food are closely allied to the carbohydrates,

but are neither starchy, saccharine, nor oily. Gum exists in the juices

of almost all plants, coming from the stems, branches, and fruits.

Examples: gum arabic, gum tragacanth, and mucilage. Pectose exists in

the fleshy pulp of unripe fruit; during the process of ripening it

changes to pectin; by cooking, pectin is changed to pectosic acid, and

by longer cooking to pectic acid. Pectosic acid is jelly-like when cold;

pectic acid is jelly-like when hot or cold. Cellulose constitutes the

cell-walls of vegetable life; in very young vegetables it is possible

that it can be acted upon by the digestive ferments; in older vegetables

it becomes woody and completely indigestible.

FATS AND OILS

Fats and oils are found in both the animal and vegetable kingdom. Fats

are solid; oils are liquid; they may be converted into a liquid state by

application of heat; they contain three substances,—_stearin_ (solid),

_olein_ (liquid), _palmitin_ (semi-solid). Suet is an example where

stearin is found in excess; lard, where olein is in excess; and butter,

where palmitin is in excess. Margarin is a mixture of stearin and

palmitin. The fatty acids are formed of stearin, olein, and palmitin,

with glycerine as the base. Examples: stearic, palmitic, and oleic acid.

Butyric acid is acid found in butter. These are not sour to the taste,

but are called acids on account of their chemical composition.

Among animal fats cream and butter are of first importance as foods, on

account of their easy assimilation. Other examples are: the fat of

meats, bone-marrow, suet (the best found around the loin and kidneys of

the beef creature), lard, cottolene, coto suet, cocoanut butter,

butterine, and oleomargarine. The principal animal oils are cod liver

oil and oil found in the yolk of egg; principal vegetable oils are

olive, cottonseed, poppy, and cocoanut oils, and oils obtained from

various nuts.

Oils are divided into two classes, _essential_ and _fixed_. Essential

oils are volatile and soluble in alcohol. Examples: clove, rose, nutmeg,

and violet. Fixed oils are non-volatile and soluble in ether, oil, or

turpentine. Examples: oil of nuts, corn meal, and mustard.

Fats may be heated to a high temperature, as considered in cookery they

have no boiling-point. When appearing to boil, it is evident water has

been added, and the temperature lowered to that of boiling water, 212°

F.

MILK

COMPOSITION

Proteid, 3.4%

Fat, 4%

Mineral matter, .7%

Water, 87%

Lactose, 4.9%

_Boston Chemist._

The value of milk as a food is obvious from the fact that it constitutes

the natural food of all young mammalia during the period of their most

rapid growth. There is some danger, however, of overestimating its value

in the dietary of adults, as solid food is essential, and liquid taken

should act as a stimulant and a solvent rather than as a nutrient. One

obtains the greatest benefit from milk when taken alone at regular

intervals between meals, or before retiring, and sipped, rather than

drunk. Hot milk is often given to produce sleep.

When milk is allowed to stand for a few hours, the globules of fat,

which have been held in suspension throughout the liquid, rise to the

top in the form of _cream_; this is due to their lower specific gravity.

The difference in quality of milk depends chiefly on the quantity of fat

therein: casein, lactose, and mineral matter being nearly constant,

water varying but little unless milk is adulterated.

=Why Milk Sours.= A germ found floating in the air attacks a portion of

the lactose in the milk, converting it into lactic acid; this, in turn,

acts upon the casein (proteid) and precipitates it, producing what is

known as _curd_ and _whey_. Whey contains water, salts, and some sugar.

Milk is preserved by sterilization, pasteurization, and evaporation.

_Fresh condensed milk_, a form of evaporized milk, is sold in bulk, and

is preferred by many to serve with coffee. Various brands of condensed

milk and cream are on the market in tin cans, hermetically sealed.

Examples: Nestle’s Swiss Condensed Milk, Eagle Condensed Milk, Daisy

Condensed Milk, Highland Evaporated Cream, Borden’s Peerless Evaporated

Cream. _Malted milk_—evaporized milk in combination with extracts of

malted barley and wheat—is used to a considerable extent; it is sold in

the form of powder.

Thin, or strawberry, and thick cream may be obtained from almost all

creameries. Devonshire, or clotted cream, is cream which has been

removed from milk allowed to heat slowly to a temperature of about 150°

F.

In feeding infants with milk, sterilization or pasteurization is

sometimes recommended to avoid danger of infectious germs. By this

process milk can be kept for many days, and transported if necessary. To

prevent acidity of the stomach, add from one to two teaspoonfuls of lime

water to each half-pint of milk. Lime water may be bought at any

druggist’s, or easily prepared at home.

=Lime Water.= Pour two quarts boiling water over an inch cube unslacked

lime; stir thoroughly and stand over night; in the morning pour off the

liquid that is clear, and bottle for use. Keep in a cool place.

BUTTER

COMPOSITION

Fat, 93%

Water, 5.34%

Mineral matter, .95%

Casein, .71%

_Pratt Institute._

Butter of commerce is made from cream of cow’s milk. The quality depends

upon the breed of cow, manner of, and care in, feeding. Milk from Jersey

and Guernsey cows yields the largest amount of butter.

Butter should be kept in a cool place and well covered, otherwise it is

liable to become rancid; this is due to the albuminous constituents of

the milk, acting as a ferment, setting free the fatty acids.

First-quality butter should be used; this does not include pat butter or

fancy grades. Poor butter has not been as thoroughly worked during

manufacture, consequently more casein remains; therefore it is more apt

to become rancid. Fresh butter spoils quickly; salt acts as a

preservative. Butter which has become rancid by too long keeping may be

greatly improved by melting, heating, and quickly chilling with

ice-water. The butter will rise to the top, and may be easily removed.

Where butter cannot be afforded, there are several products on the

market which have the same chemical composition as butter, and are

equally wholesome. Examples: butterine and oleomargarine.

Buttermilk is liquid remaining after butter “has come.” When taken

fresh, it makes a wholesome beverage.

CHEESE

COMPOSITION

Proteid, 31.23%

Fat, 34.39%

Water, 30.17%

Mineral matter, 4.31%

Cheese is the solid part of sweet milk obtained by heating milk and

coagulating it by means of rennet or an acid. Rennet is an infusion made

from prepared inner membrane of the fourth stomach of the calf. The curd

is salted and subjected to pressure. Cheese is made from skim milk, milk

plus cream, or cream. Cheese is kept for a longer or shorter time,

according to the kind, that fermentation or decomposition may take

place. This is called ripening. Some cream cheeses are not allowed to

ripen. Milk from Jersey and Guernsey cows yields the largest amount of

cheese.

Cheese is very valuable food; being rich in proteid, it may be used as a

substitute for meat. A pound of cheese is equal in proteid to two pounds

of beef. Cheese in the raw state is difficult of digestion. This is

somewhat overcome by cooking and adding a small amount of bicarbonate of

soda. A small piece of rich cheese is often eaten to assist digestion.

The various brands of cheese take their names from the places where

made. Many foreign ones are now well imitated in this country. The

favorite kinds of skim-milk cheese are: Edam, Gruyère, and Parmesan.

Parmesan is very hard and used principally for grating. The holes in

Gruyère are due to aeration.

The favorite kinds of milk cheese are: Gloucester, Cheshire, Cheddar,

and Gorgonzola; Milk and Cream cheese: Stilton and Double Gloucester;

Cream cheese: Brie, Neufchâtel, and Camembert.

FRUITS

The varieties of fruits consumed are numerous, and their uses important.

They are chiefly valuable for their sugar, acids, and salts, and are

cooling, refreshing, and stimulating. They act as a tonic, and assist in

purifying the blood. Many contain a jelly-like substance, called pectin,

and several contain starch, which during the ripening process is

converted into glucose. Bananas, dates, figs, prunes, and grapes, owing

to their large amount of sugar, are the most nutritious. Melons,

oranges, lemons, and grapes contain the largest amount of water. Apples,

lemons, and oranges are valuable for their potash salts, and oranges and

lemons especially valuable for their citric acid. It is of importance to

those who are obliged to exclude much sugar from their dietary, to know

that plums, peaches, apricots, and raspberries have less sugar than

other fruits; apples, sweet cherries, grapes, and pears contain the

largest amount. Apples are obtainable nearly all the year, and on

account of their variety, cheapness, and abundance, are termed queen of

fruits.

Thoroughly ripe fruits should be freely indulged in, and to many are

more acceptable than desserts prepared in the kitchen. If possible,

fruits should always appear on the breakfast-table. In cases where

uncooked fruit cannot be freely eaten, many kinds may be cooked and

prove valuable. Never eat unripe fruit, or that which is beginning to

decay. Fruits should be wiped or rinsed before serving.

VEGETABLE ACIDS, AND WHERE FOUND

The principal vegetable acids are:

I. Acetic (HC_{2}H_{3}O_{2}), found in wine and vinegar.

II. Tartaric (H_{2}C_{4}H_{4}O_{6}), found in grapes, pineapples, and

tamarinds.

III. Malic, much like tartaric, found in apples, pears, peaches,

apricots, gooseberries, and currants.

IV. Citric (H_{3}C_{6}H_{5}O_{7}), found in lemons, oranges, limes, and

citron.

V. Oxalic (H_{2}C_{2}O_{4}), found in rhubarb and sorrel.

To these may be added tannic acid, obtained from gall nuts. Some fruits

contain two or more acids. Malic and citric are found in strawberries,

raspberries, gooseberries, and cherries; malic, citric, and oxalic in

cranberries.

CONDIMENTS

Condiments are not classed among foods, but are known as food adjuncts.

They are used to stimulate the appetite by adding flavor to food. Among

the most important are salt, spices, and various flavorings. Salt,

according to some authorities, is called a food, being necessary to

life.

=Black pepper= is ground peppercorns. Peppercorns are the dried berries

of _Piper nigrum_, grown in the West Indies, Sumatra, and other eastern

countries.

=White pepper= is made from the same berry, the outer husk being removed

before grinding. It is less irritating than black pepper to the coating

of the stomach.

=Cayenne pepper= is the powdered pod of _Capsicum_ grown on the eastern

coast of Africa and in Zanzibar.

=Mustard= is the ground seed of two species of the Brassica. _Brassica

alba_ yields white mustard seeds; _Brassica nigra_, black mustard seeds.

Both species are grown in Europe and America.

=Ginger= is the pulverized dried root of _Zanzibar officinale_, grown in

Jamaica, China, and India. Commercially speaking, there are three

grades,—Jamaica, best and strongest; Cochin, and African.

=Cinnamon= is the ground inner bark of _Cinnamomum zeylanicum_,

principally grown in Ceylon. The cinnamon of commerce (cassia) is the

powdered bark of different species of the same shrub, which is

principally grown in China, and called Chinese cinnamon. It is cheaper

than true cinnamon.

=Clove= is the ground flower buds of _Caryophyllus aromaticus_, native

to the Moluccas or Spice Islands, but now grown principally in Zanzibar,

Pemba, and the West Indies.

=Pimento= (commonly called allspice) is the ground fruit of _Eugenia

pimenta_, grown in Jamaica and the West Indies.

=Nutmeg= is the kernel of the fruit of the _Myristica fragans_, grown in

Banda Islands.

=Mace.= The fibrous network which envelops the nutmeg seed constitutes

the mace of commerce.

=Vinegar= is made from apple cider, malt, and wine, and is the product

of fermentation. It is a great preservative; hence its use in the making

of pickles, sauces, and other condiments. The amount of acetic acid in

vinegar varies from two to seven per cent.

=Capers= are flower buds of _Capparis spinosa_, grown in countries

bordering the Mediterranean. They are preserved in vinegar, and bottled

for importation.

=Horseradish= is the root of _Cochliaria armoracia_,—a plant native to

Europe, but now grown in our own country. It is generally grated, mixed

with vinegar, and bottled.

FLAVORING EXTRACTS

Many flavoring extracts are on the market. Examples: almond, vanilla,

lemon, orange, peach, and rose. These are made from the flower, fruit,

or seed from which they are named. Strawberry, pineapple, and banana

extracts are manufactured from chemicals.

[Illustration:

A GROUP OF KITCHEN UTENSILS.—_Page 14._

]

[Illustration:

MEASURING CUPS AND TEASPOONS AND TABLESPOONS ILLUSTRATING THE

MEASURING OF DRY INGREDIENTS, BUTTER, AND LIQUIDS.—_Page 25._

]

[Illustration:

THE WHIPPING OF HEAVY AND THIN CREAM.—_Page 425._

]

The Boston cooking-school cook book · 第 1 / 39 章