Parting with Colonel Linant—Magassa’s vanity and disloyalty—The sailor’s
island—Jumba’s Cove—Uganga—Dumo—The Alexandra Nile—Lupassi Point—In
danger at Makongo—Alone with Nature—Insect life—Dreams of a happier
future—A dark secret—Murabo and the fish—Alice Island—A night never to
be forgotten—The treachery of Bumbireh—Saved!—Refuge Island—Wiru—“Go
and die in the Nyanza!”—Back in camp—Sad news.
_April 17._—“Adieu! adieu! mon ami Linant! Remember my words, I shall
return within a month; if not, present my compliments to your friends at
Ismailia (Gondokoro), and tell them they may see me on the Albert
Nyanza,” were the last words I said to M. Linant de Bellefonds, as I
seated myself in my boat on the morning of the 17th of April.[14]
We had scarcely gone three miles on our voyage, before the vanity of the
youth Magassa exceeded all bounds. Deeming it prudent—before it was too
late—to lecture him, and hold out prospects of a reward conditional upon
good behaviour, I called to him to approach me, as I had something to
say to him. He would not come, but continued on his way with a slight
grimace and a saucy inclination of the head. I reserved the lecture
until we should arrive in camp.
At noon I took observations for latitude at the entrance to Murchison
Bay, and during the afternoon we rowed hard upon our voyage, reaching
Chiwanuko Island near sunset. Magassa soon followed me, and as I landed,
I laid hold of him gently but firmly, and seating him by my side,
employed myself in holding forth grand expectations before him, only,
however, on the condition that he obeyed Mtesa’s orders, behaved well,
and acted in unison with me. Magassa promised faithfully, and as a sign
that he was sincere, begged to be permitted to continue his voyage to
Sessé, a large island where Mtesa’s canoes were beached, to procure the
full quota of thirty promised to me. Leaving five canoes in charge of
Sentum and Sentageya, two of his Watongolehs, he departed by night,
which I thought was a remarkable instance of energy. The truth was,
however, that he only proceeded two miles, and slept at a village, where
he abused his authority by seizing a woman, and binding the chief.
_April 20._—The next day we proceeded with the Watongolehs, Sentum and
Sentageya, and camped at Jumba’s Cove. Jumba is the hereditary title of
one of the junior admirals in command of a section of the imperial canoe
fleet, to whom is awarded the district of Unjaku, a headland abutting on
the left or north bank of the Katonga river. It is an exceedingly
fertile district, separating Gabunga’s, or the chief admiral’s, district
from Sambuzi’s, a sub-chief of Kitunzi.
The whole of the north coast from Murchison Bay presents a panorama of
beautiful views, of square table-topped mounts, rounded hills, and cones
forming low ranges, which run in all directions, but with a general
inclination east and west, and form, as it were, a natural boundary to
the lake on the north. These masses of mountain, forming irregular
ranges, suggest to the observer that no rivers of importance issue into
the lake from the north side. They are terminated suddenly at the
Katonga, and from the north-west along their base the river flows
sluggishly into the lake. On the right or southern bank the land appears
to be very low, as far as the hills of Uddu, four miles off. The Katonga
river at this mouth is about 400 yards wide, but its current is very
slow, almost imperceptible.
Uganda is a lowland district lying at the mouth of the Katonga, on the
south or right bank, whence a large bay with well-wooded shores rounds
from this river to the southward in a crescent form, to Bwiru, from
which point we begin to trace the coast of Uddu. Uganda proper extends
only as far as the Katonga river; from its bank Uddu begins, and
stretches as far as the Alexandra Nile or Kagera.
Sessé Island extends from a point six miles south of Kibonga, westward
to a point seven miles south of Jumba’s village, and southward—parallel
almost with the coast of Uddu—to a distance of about twenty-three miles.
Its extreme length is about forty-two miles, while its extreme breadth
must be about twenty miles. The principal canoe builders and the greater
number of the sailors of Mtesa’s empire dwell in Sessé, and because of
their coal-black colour, timidity, superstition, and general uncleanly
life, are regarded as the helots of Uganda.
_April 21._—On the 21st we made a tedious, eventless voyage along the
low, swampy, and jungly shores of Ujaju to Dumo, a village situated on
the mainland nearly opposite the extreme southern end of Sessé Island.
From a curious stony hill near Dumo, which bears traces of ancient
effects of water, we obtained a distant view of the outskirts of a
pastoral plateau rising westward.
Magassa appeared in the evening from his unsuccessful quest for canoes.
He gave a graphic account of the dangers he had encountered at Sessé,
whose inhabitants declared they would rather be beheaded by the _Kabaka_
than risk themselves on an endless voyage on the stormy sea, but he had
obtained a promise from Magura, the admiral in charge of the naval yards
at Sessé, that he would endeavour to despatch fourteen canoes after us.
Meanwhile, Magassa had left me at Chiwanuko with five canoes, but
returned with only two, alleging that the other three leaked so much
that they were not seaworthy. He suggested also that, as Magura might
cause great delay if left alone, I should proceed with Sentum and
Sentageya, and leave him in charge of five. Having witnessed his vanity
and heard of his atrocious conduct near Chiwanuko, I strongly suspected
him of desiring to effect some more mischief at Dumo, but I was
powerless to interpose the strong arm, and therefore left him to answer
for his shortcomings to Mtesa, who would doubtless hear of them before
long.
After leaving Dumo and Sessé north of us, we had a boundless horizon of
water on the east, while on the west stretched a crescent-shaped bay,
bordered by a dense forest, ending south at Chawasimba Point. From here
another broad bay extends southwards, and is terminated by the
northernmost headland of Uzongora. Into this bay issues the Alexandra
Nile in one powerful deep stream, which, from its volume and dark iron
colour, may be traced several miles out. At its mouth it is about 150
yards wide, and at two miles above narrows to about 100 yards. We
attempted to ascend higher, but the current was so strong that we made
but slow progress, and after an ascent of three miles were obliged to
abandon it. The plain on either side has a breadth of from five to ten
miles, which during the rainy season is inundated throughout its whole
extent. The deepest soundings we obtained were 85 feet. I know no other
river to equal this in magnitude among the affluents of the Victoria
Nyanza. The Shimeeyu river thus becomes the second largest affluent of
the lake, and the two united would form a river equal to that which has
its exit by the Ripon Falls.
The Waganda Watongolehs, Sentum and Sentageya, call the Alexandra Nile
the “Mother of the River at Jinja,” or the Ripon Falls.
The Alexandra Nile constitutes a natural boundary between the
sovereignty of Uganda and its subject kingdoms of Karagwé and Uzongora,
which begin south of the river. The plain of the Alexandra stretches
south a few miles to an irregular line of grassy and treeless mountains,
which are the characteristics of the fine pastoral countries of Uzongora
and Karagwé. At Lupassi Point the mountains project steeply, almost
cliff-like, into the lake, with heights varying from 200 feet to 500
feet. The steep slopes bristle at many points with grey gneiss rocks—
massy débris from the mountain brows. Near this point I discovered a
stream which had a fall of 3 feet issuing from an orifice in a rocky
cliff, though above it there was not the faintest sign of a watercourse.
In the gullies and clefts of the cliff-sides most beautiful ferns
abounded.
I managed to climb to the top of the bluffs, and to my surprise
overlooked a plateau, with a grandly rolling surface, covered with
pasture and almost treeless, except near the villages, where grew dense
groves of bananas. Further west, however, the plateau heaves upwards
into mountain masses of the same naked character. Looking towards the
east, directly in front of North Uzongora, stretches an apparently
illimitable silvery sea; but towards the south one or two lofty islands
are visible, situated about twenty-five miles from the mainland, serene
and royal in their lone exclusiveness.
The first village we halted at on the coast of Uzongora was Makongo. It
nestles in a sheltered nook in a bay-like indentation of the lofty
mountain wall crowded with banana groves and huts scattered under their
impenetrable shades—with a strip of grey gravel beach gently sloping
from the water’s edge about 40 feet upward to where it meets the
prodigious luxury of the grove. There were about a dozen natives clad in
dingy goat-skins seated on the beach, sucking the potent maramba from
gourds when we came up, and without question we hauled our boat and two
canoes high and dry. To our greetings the natives responded readily and
civilly enough. With rather glazed eyes they offered us some of the
equatorial nectar. The voyage had been long on this day, and we were
tired, and it might be that we sighed for such cordial refreshing drink
as was now proferred to us. At any rate, we accepted their hospitable
gift, and sucked heartily, with bland approval of the delicacy of the
liquid, and cordial thanks for their courtesy. An observation for
longitude was taken, the natives looking on pleased and gratified. To
all our questions as to the names of the localities and islands in view
they replied like friends.
Sunset came. We bade each other good-night. At midnight there was a
fearful drumming heard, which kept us all awake from the sheer violence
of the sound. “Is anything wrong?” we demanded of Sentum and Sentageya.
“Oh, no!” they answered. Still the drumming sounded hoarsely through the
dark night, and the desire for sleep fled.
My men were all up before dawn, impatient for the day.
Instinct, startled by that ominous drumming, warned them that something
was wrong. I was still in my boat with drawn curtains, though able to
communicate with my people. At sight of the natives Safeni, the
coxswain, hailed me. As I was dressed, I arranged my guns and soon
stepped out, and my astonishment was great when I perceived that there
were between 200 and 300 natives, all in war costume and armed with
spears, and bows and arrows, and long-handled cleaver-like weapons, with
ample and long cane shields for defence, so close to us. For this
terrible looking body of men stood only about thirty paces off,
regarding us steadfastly. It was such a singular position, so unusual
and so strangely theatrical, that, feeling embarrassed, I hastened to
break the silence, and advanced towards a man whom I recognised as the
elder who had given me some native wine on the previous evening.
“What means this, my friend?” I asked. “Is anything wrong?”
He replied rapidly, but briefly and sternly, in the Kinyambu language,
which as I did not understand, I called the Mtongoleh Sentum to
translate for me.
“What do you mean by drawing your canoes on our beach?” I was told he
asked.
“Tell him we drew them up lest the surf should batter them to pieces
during the night. The winds are rough sometimes, and waves rise high.
Our canoes are our homes, and we are far from our friends who are
waiting for us. Were our canoes injured or broken how should we return
to our friends?”
He next demanded, “Know you this is our country?”
“Yes, but are we doing wrong? Is the beach so soft that it can be hurt
by our canoes? Have we cut down your bananas, or entered into your
houses? Have we molested any of your people? Do you not see our fires by
which we slept exposed to the cold night?”
“Well, you must leave this place at once. We do not want you here. Go!”
“That is easily done,” I answered; “and had you told us last night that
our presence was not welcome to you, we should have camped on yonder
island.”
“What did you come here for?”
“We came to rest for the night, and to buy food, and is that a crime? Do
you not travel in your canoes? Supposing people received you as you
received us this morning, what would you say? Would you not say they
were bad? Ah, my friend, I did not expect that you who were so good
yesterday would turn out thus! But never mind; we will go away quickly
and quietly, and the _Kabaka_ Mtesa shall hear of this, and judge
between us.”
“If you wish food, I will send some bananas to yonder island, but you
must go away from this, lest the people, who wish to fight you, should
break out.”
We soon shoved the boat and two canoes into the water, and I and my
boat’s crew embarked and rowed away a few yards. But Sentum was angry
with the people, and instead of quietly departing, was loudly
expostulating with them. To prevent mischief and the massacre of his
entire party, I shouted to Sentum, commanding him to embark at once,
which after a short time he obeyed, growling.
We steered for Musira Island, about three miles from Makongo, where we
found four or five canoes from Kamiru’s country loaded with coffee and
butter. The Waganda, Sentum and Sentageya, with feelings embittered
against the natives, seized upon several packages of coffee, which drew
a loud remonstrance from the natives. The Waganda sailors, ever ready
for a scramble, followed their chiefs’ example, and assisted in
despoiling the natives, which caused one of them to appeal to me. I was
busy directing my boat’s crew to set my tent, when I was thus made
acquainted with the conduct of the Waganda. The property taken from them
was restored immediately, and Sentum and Sentageya were threatened with
punishment if they molested them further, and the natives were advised
to leave for another island about five miles north of us, as soon as the
lake should become calm.
About 10 A.M. the chief of Makongo, true to his promise, sent us ten
bunches of green bananas, sufficient for one day’s provisions for the
sixty-two men, Waganda and Wangwana, of whom our party consisted.
After these events I strolled alone into the dense and tangled
luxuriance of the jungle woods which lay behind our camp. Knowing that
the people would be discussing their bananas, that no foe could molest
them, and that they could not quarrel with any natives—there being
nobody else on the island of Musira but ourselves—I was able to leave
them to pass the time as they might deem most agreeable. Therefore, with
all the ardour of a boy, I began my solitary exploration. Besides, it
was so rare for me to enjoy solitude and silence in such perfect safety
as was here promised to me. My freedom in these woods, though I was
alone, none could endanger or attempt to restrain; my right to climb
trees, or explore hollows, or stand on my head, or roll about on the
leaves or ruins of branch and bark, or laugh or sing, who could oppose?
Being thus absolute monarch and supreme arbiter over myself, I should
enjoy for a brief period perfect felicity.
That impulse to jump, to bound, to spring upward and cling to branches
overhead, which is the characteristic of a strong green age, I gave free
rein to. Unfettered for a time from all conventionalisms, and absolved
from that sobriety and steadiness which my position as a leader of half
wild men compelled me to assume in their presence, all my natural
elasticity of body came back to me. I dived under the obstructing bough
or sprang over the prostrate trunk, squeezed into almost impossible
places, crawled and writhed like a serpent through the tangled
undergrowth, plunged down into formidable depths of dense foliage, and
burrowed and struggled with frantic energy among shadowing pyramids of
vines and creepers, which had become woven and plaited by their numbers
into a solid mass.
What eccentricities of creation I became acquainted with in this
truanting in the wild woods! Ants, red, black, yellow, grey, white, and
parti-coloured, peopling a miniature world with unknown emmet races.
Here were some members of the belligerent warrior caste always
threatening the harmless, and seeking whom they might annoy, and there
the ferocious food-providers, active for the attack, ranging bole,
bough, twigs and leaf for prey; the meek and industrious artisans
absorbed in defending the poor privilege of a short existence; the
frugal neuters tugging enormous loads towards their cunningly
constructed nests; sentries on watch at the doors to defend the
approaches to their fastnesses. They swarmed among the foliage in
columns of foraging and plundering marauders and countless hordes of
ruthless destroyers. In the decaying vegetation I heard all around me
the xylophagous larvæ of great beetles hard at work by thousands, and
saw myriads of termites destroying with industrious fury everything that
lay in their path, whether animal or vegetable. Armies of psyllæ and
moths innumerable were startled from the bushes, and from every bough
shrilled the tiresome cicada, ever noisy. Here the relentless ant-lions
prepared their pitfalls, and there the ghostly mantis, green or grey,
stood waiting for unwary insects. Diamond beetles abounded, and many
other species, uncouth and horrid, scrambled away from before my feet.
Nor are these a thousandth part of the insect nations that I disturbed;
the secluded island was a world of infinite activities.
Beyond the flats I came at last to where the ground sloped upward
rapidly, though still clothed with tall trees and their parasitical
plants and undergrowth; and in spite of the intense heat, I continued my
exploration, determined to view the upper regions. Clambering up the
steep side, I had a large choice of supports; here a tamarind and next a
bombax, now a projecting branch of mimosa and now a thick lliane, hung
down, inviting me to haul myself upward and forward: the young and
pliant teak sapling or slender jasmine bent as I seized them to assist
my labouring feet, and at last I emerged above the trees and the tangle
of meshed undergrowth, and stood upright on the curious spiky grass,
studded with wild pine-apple, ground orchids and aloes, which covered
the summit.
After a general look around the island, I discovered it was in the
form of a rudely shaped boot-last, lying east and west, the lowest
parts being the flats through which I had just struggled. It was about
three-quarters of a mile long and about 200 yards wide. The heel
was formed by a narrow projecting ledge rising about 50 feet nearly
perpendicularly from the water. From this ledge rose the rock 80 feet
above it, and 130 feet therefore above the water.
I gazed long on the grand encircling prospect. A halcyon calm brooded
on the lake, eastward, northward, and southward, until the clear
sky and stainless silver water met, the clear bounds of both veiled
by a gauzy vapour, suggesting infinity. In a bold, majestic mass to
the south-east rose Alice Island, while a few miles south-east of
it appeared the Bumbireh group. Opposite me, to the west, and two
miles from where I stood, was the long cliffy front of the plateau of
Uzongora, its slowly-rising summit gemmed with patches of evergreen
banana, until it became banked in the distance by lines of hazy blue
mountains.
It is a spot from which, undisturbed, the eye may rove over one of the
strangest yet fairest portions of Africa—hundreds of square miles of
beautiful lake scenes—a great length of grey plateau wall, upright and
steep, but indented with exquisite inlets, half surrounded by embowering
plantains—-hundreds of square miles of pastoral upland dotted thickly
with villages and groves of banana. From my lofty eyrie I can see herds
upon herds of cattle, and many minute specks, white and black, which can
be nothing but flocks of sheep and goats. I can also see pale blue
columns of ascending smoke from the fires, and upright thin figures
moving about. Secure on my lofty throne, I can view their movements and
laugh at the ferocity of the savage hearts which beat in those thin dark
figures; for I am a part of Nature now, and for the present as
invulnerable as itself. As little do they know that human eyes survey
their forms from the summit of this lake-girt isle as that the eyes of
the Supreme in heaven are upon them. How long, I wonder, shall the
people of these lands remain thus ignorant of Him who created the
gorgeous sunlit world they look upon each day from their lofty upland!
How long shall their untamed ferocity be a barrier to the Gospel, and
how long shall they remain unvisited by the Teacher!
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[_To face page 174._
[Illustration: RECEPTION AT BUMBIREH ISLAND, VICTORIA NYANZA.]
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What a land they possess! and what an inland sea! How steamers afloat on
the lake might cause Ururi to shake hands with Uzongora, and Uganda with
Usukuma, make the wild Wavuma friends with the Wazinza, and unite the
Wakerewé with the Wagana! A great trading port might then spring up on
the Shimeeyu, whence the coffee of Uzongora, the ivory, sheep, and goats
of Ugeyeya, Usoga, Uvuma, and Uganda, the cattle of Uwya, Karagwé,
Usagara, Ihangiro, and Usukuma, the myrrh, cassia, and furs and hides of
Uganda and Uddu, the rice of Ukerewé, and the grain of Uzinza, might be
exchanged for the fabrics brought from the coast; all the land be
redeemed from wildness, the industry and energy of the natives
stimulated, the havoc of the slave-trade stopped, and all the countries
round about permeated with the nobler ethics of a higher humanity. But
at present the hands of the people are lifted—murder in their hearts—one
against the other; ferocity is kindled at sight of the wayfarer; piracy
is the acknowledged profession of the Wavuma; the people of Ugeyeya and
Wasoga go stark naked; Mtesa impales, burns, and maims his victims; the
Wirigedi lie in wait along their shores for the stranger, and the
slingers of the islands practise their art against him; the Wakara
poison anew their deadly arrows at sight of a canoe; and each tribe,
with rage and hate in its heart, remains aloof from the other. “Verily,
the dark places of the earth are full of the habitations of cruelty.”
Oh for the hour when a band of philanthropic capitalists shall vow to
rescue these beautiful lands, and supply the means to enable the Gospel
messengers to come and quench the murderous hate with which man beholds
man in the beautiful lands around Lake Victoria!
I descended from the lofty height, the summit of Musira Island, by
another way, which disclosed to me the character of the rocky island,
and exposed to my view the precipitous walls of shale, rifted and
indented by ages of atmospheric influences, that surround the island
upon all sides but the western. After great difficulty I succeeded in
getting upon the top of a portion of an upper ledge that had fallen on
the north-east corner and now formed a separate projection about 30 feet
high. In a cavernous recess upon the summit of it, I discovered six
human bodies in a state of decomposition, half covered with grass and
débris of rock. One of the skulls showed the mark of a hatchet, which
made me suspect that a tragedy had occurred here but a short time
before. No doubt the horrible event took place on the island on the
ground occupied by our camp, for there was no other spot where such a
deed could have been wrought, and probably the victims were taken in
canoes, and deposited in this hidden recess, that strangers might not be
alarmed at the sight of the bodies, or of such evidence of violence as
the hatchet-cleft skull. Probably, also, these strangers were murdered
for their cargo of coffee or of butter by the natives of the mainland,
or by a later arrival of strangers like my own Waganda, who because of
their numerical superiority had begun their molestation and robbery of
the coffee traders, without other cause than that they were strong and
the traders weak.
About 5 P.M., having long before returned to camp, I saw on the horizon
Magassa’s fleet of canoes, and counted fourteen. I despatched Safeni and
some of the Waganda in a canoe to the small islands we passed just
before reaching Makongo, begging Magassa to hasten and join me early
next morning, as we were short of provisions, and starvation would ensue
if we were delayed in our voyage. Safeni returned about 9 P.M. with a
request from Magassa that I would go on as early as I wished, and a
promise that he would follow me to camp.
_April 26._—I waited, however, for Magassa until 10 A.M., and as Alice
Island—which Sentum and Sentageya advised me was the best place to touch
at in order to make a short course for Usukuma—was about thirty miles
from Musira, I could delay no longer. It was then agreed that Sentum
should stay at Musira Island until Magassa arrived, and inform him of
the direction which Sentageya and I had taken.
We had proceeded on our voyage but three miles when Sentageya turned
back with all speed towards Musira, waving his hand to me to continue my
journey. Imagining that he had merely forgotten something, I did as he
directed.
We reached Alice Island about 9 P.M., for we had been delayed by a
strong head wind since 4 P.M. As it was pitch-dark, we were guided to a
camping-place by a flickering light which we saw on the shore. The light
for which we steered was that of a fire kindled by two men and a boy,
who were drying fish in a cavern the entrance of which opened on the
lake. Though the fishermen were rather frightened at first, they were
discreet enough to remain passive; and to calm their fears, I assumed an
air of extreme blandness and amiability. It being late, I prepared to
rest in the stern-sheets of my boat, but as I was about to lie down, I
heard the natives expostulating. I knew by this that the boat’s crew
must be committing depredations on their fish stores; so I sprang out—
and only just in time to save them a serious loss. Murabo had already
made himself master of half-a-dozen large fish, when I came up with
naked feet behind him, announcing my arrival by a staggering blow, which
convinced the fishermen better than any amount of blandness and
affectation of amiability could have done, that I was sincere, and
convinced the Wangwana also that injustice would not be permitted. The
fishermen received a handful of beads as an atonement for the attempted
spoliation, and to secure the Wangwana against further temptation, I
gave them double rations.
_April 27._—The next morning, when I woke, I found that we were camped
under the shadow of a basaltic cliff, about 50 feet high, at the base of
which was the fishermen’s cavern, extending about 15 feet within. The
island was lofty, about 400 feet above the lake at its highest part,
nearly four miles in length, and a mile and a half across at its
greatest breadth. The inhabitants consisted of about forty families from
Ukerewé, and owned King Lukongeh as their liege lord.
The summit of Alice Island is clothed with an abundance of coarse grass,
and the ravines and hollows are choked with a luxuriance of vegetable
life—trees, plants, ferns, ground orchids, and wild pine-apples: along
the water’s edge there waves a thin strip of water-cane. The people
became fast friends with us, but their keen trading instincts impelled
them to demand such exorbitant prices for every article, that we were
unable to purchase more than a few ears of corn. I obtained a view from
the summit with my field-glass, but I could distinguish nothing east or
south-east. South-west we saw the Bumbireh group, and to purchase food
we were compelled to proceed thither—disagreeably convinced that we had
lost a whole day by calling at Alice Island, whereas, had we kept a
direct course to the south, we might have reached the Bumbireh group in
a few hours.
_April 28._—As we started only at noon from Alice Island, being delayed
by expectations of seeing Magassa, and also by the necessity for
purchasing something even at high prices to prevent starvation, we did
not reach Barker’s Island—the easternmost of the Bumbireh group—until
night, which we passed most miserably in a little cove surrounded by
impenetrable brushwood. It was one downpour of rain throughout the whole
night, which compelled us to sit up shivering and supperless, for, to
crown our discomforts, we had absolutely nothing to eat. No more abject
objects can be imagined than the human beings that occupied the boat
through the hours of darkness. There were my crew all sitting as closely
as possible, back to back or side by side, on the oars and boards which
they had arranged like a platform on the thwarts, and I sitting alone
under the awning in the stern sheets, wearily trying to outline their
figures, or vaguely taking mental notes of the irregularities of the
bush, with occasional hasty glances at the gloomy sky, or at Bumbireh,
whose black mass looked grim and lofty in the dark, and all the time the
rain kept pouring down with a steady malignant impetuosity. I doubt if
even the happiest hours which may fall to my lot in the future will ever
obliterate from my memory that dismal night of discomfort and hunger.
But as it generally happens, the dismal night was followed by a
beautiful, bright morning. Every inch of nature that we could scan
seemed revivified, refreshed, and gay, except the little world which the
boat contained. We were eager to renew our acquaintance with humanity,
for only by contact with others could we live. We accordingly sailed for
Bumbireh, which lay about two miles from Barker’s Island, and ran down
the coast in search of a cove and haven for our boat, while we should be
bartering our beads for edibles.
Bumbireh Island is about eleven miles in extreme length by two miles
greatest breadth. It is in appearance a hilly range, with a tolerably
even and softly rolling summit line clothed with short grass. Its slopes
are generally steep, yet grassy or cultivated. It contains probably
fifty small villages, averaging about twenty huts to a village, and if
we calculate four souls to each hut, we have a population of about 4000
including all ages.
Herds of cattle grazed on the summit and slopes; a tolerably large
acreage here and there showed a brown soil upturned for planting, while
extensive banana groves marked most of the village sites. There was a
kindly and prosperous aspect about the island.
As soon as we had sailed a little distance along the coast, we caught
sight of a few figures which broke the even and smooth outline of the
grassy summit, and heard the well-known melodious war-cries employed
by most of the Central African tribes, “Hehu-a-hehu-u-u-u!” loud,
long-drawn, and ringing.
The figures increased in number, and fresh voices joined in the defiant
and alarming note. Still, hungry wretches as we were, environed by
difficulties of all kinds, just beginning to feel warm after the cold
and wet of the night before, with famine gnawing at our vitals, leagues
upon leagues of sea between us and our friends at Usukuma, and nothing
eatable in our boat, we were obliged to risk something, reminding
ourselves “that there are no circumstances so desperate which Providence
may not relieve.”
At 9 A.M. we discovered a cove near the south-east end of the long
island, and pulled slowly into it. Immediately the natives rushed down
the slopes, shouting war-cries and uttering fierce ejaculations. When
about 50 yards from the shore, I bade the men cease rowing, but Safeni
and Baraka became eloquent, and said, “It is almost always the case,
master, with savages. They cry out, and threaten, and look big, but you
will see that all that noise will cease as soon as they hear us speak.
Besides, if we leave here without food, where shall we obtain it?”
The last argument was unanswerable, and though I gave no orders to
resume their oars, four of the men impelled the boat on slowly, while
Safeni and Baraka prepared themselves to explain to the natives, who
were now close within hearing, as they came rushing to the water’s edge.
I saw some lift great stones, while others prepared their bows.
We were now about 10 yards from the beach, and Safeni and Baraka spoke,
earnestly pointing to their mouths, and by gestures explaining that
their bellies were empty. They smiled with insinuating faces; uttered
the words “brothers,” “friends,” “good fellows,” most volubly; cunningly
interpolated the words Mtesa—the _Kabaka_—Uganda, and Antari king of
Ihangiro, to whom Bumbireh belongs. Safeni and Baraka’s pleasant
volubility seemed to have produced a good effect, for the stones were
dropped, the bows were unstrung, and the lifted spears lowered to assist
the steady, slow-walking pace with which they now advanced.
Tafeni and Baraka turned to me triumphantly and asked, “What did we say,
master?” and then, with engaging frankness, invited the natives, who
were now about two hundred in number, to come closer. The natives
consulted a little while, and several—now smiling pleasantly themselves—
advanced leisurely into the water until they touched the boat’s prow.
They stood a few seconds talking sweetly, when suddenly with a rush they
ran the boat ashore, and then all the others, seizing hawser and
gunwale, dragged her about 20 yards over the rocky beach high and dry,
leaving us almost stupefied with astonishment!
Then ensued a scene which beggars description. Pandemonium—all its
devils armed—raged around us. A forest of spears was levelled; thirty or
forty bows were drawn taut; as many barbed arrows seemed already on the
wing; thick, knotty clubs waved above our heads; two hundred screaming
black demons jostled with each other and struggled for room to vent
their fury, or for an opportunity to deliver one crushing blow or thrust
at us.
In the meantime, as soon as the first symptoms of this manifestation of
violence had been observed, I had sprung to my feet, each hand armed
with a loaded self-cocking revolver, to kill and be killed. But the
apparent hopelessness of inflicting much injury upon such a large crowd
restrained me, and Safeni turned to me, though almost cowed to dumbness
by the loud fury around us, and pleaded with me to be patient. I
complied, seeing that I should get no aid from my crew; but, while
bitterly blaming myself for my imprudence in having yielded—against my
instincts—to placing myself in the power of such savages, I vowed that,
if I escaped this once, my own judgment should guide my actions for the
future.
I assumed a resigned air, though I still retained my revolvers. My crew
also bore the first outburst of the tempest of shrieking rage which
assailed them with almost sublime imperturbability. Safeni crossed his
arms with the meekness of a saint. Baraka held his hands palms outward,
asking with serene benignity, “What, my friends, ails you? Do you fear
empty hands and smiling people like us? We are friends, we came as
friends to buy food, two or three bananas, a few mouthfuls of grain, or
potatoes, or muhogo (cassava), and, if you permit us, we shall depart as
friends.”
Our demeanour had a great effect. The riot and noise seemed to be
subsiding, when some fifty new-comers rekindled the smouldering fury.
Again the forest of spears swayed on the launch, again the knotty clubs
were whirled aloft, again the bows were drawn, and again the barbed
arrows seemed flying. Safeni received a push which sent him tumbling,
little Kirango received a blow on the head with a spear-staff, Saramba
gave a cry as a club descended on his back.
I sprang up this time to remonstrate, with the two revolvers in my left
hand. I addressed myself to an elder, who seemed to be restraining the
people from proceeding too far. I showed him beads, cloth, wire, and
invoked the names of Mtesi, and Antari their king.
The sight of the heaps of beads and cloth I exposed awakened, however,
the more deliberate passions of selfishness and greed in each heart. An
attempt at massacre, they began to argue, would certainly entail the
loss of some of themselves. “Guns might be seized and handled with
terrible effect even by dying men, and who knows what those little iron
things in the white man’s hands are?” they seemed to be asking
themselves. The elder, whatever he thought, responded with an
affectation of indignation, raised his stick, and to right and left of
him drove back the demoniac crowd. Other prominent men now assisted this
elder, whom we subsequently discovered to be Shekka, the king of
Bumbireh.
Shekka then, having thus bestirred himself, beckoned to half-a-dozen
men and walked away a few yards behind the mass. It was the “shauri,”
dear to a free and independent African’s heart, that was about to be
held. Half the crowd followed the king and his council, while the other
half remained to indulge their violent, vituperative tongues on us,
and to continually menace us with either club or spear. An audacious
party came round the stern of the boat and, with superlatively hideous
gestures, affronted me; one of them even gave a tug at my hair,
thinking it was a wig. I avenged myself by seizing his hand, and
suddenly bending it back almost dislocated it, causing him to howl with
pain. His comrades swayed their lances, but I smilingly looked at them,
for all idea of self-preservation had now almost fled.
The issue had surely arrived. There had been just one brief moment of
agony when I reflected how unlovely death appears in such guise as that
in which it then threatened me. What would my people think as they
anxiously waited for the never returning master! What would Pocock and
Barker say when they heard of the tragedy of Bumbireh! And my friends in
America and Europe! “Tut, it is only a brief moment of pain, and then
what can the ferocious dogs do more? It is a consolation that, if
anything, it will be short, sharp, sudden—a gasp, and then a silence—for
ever and ever!” And after that I was ready for the fight and for death.
“Now, my black friends, do your worst; anything you choose; I am ready.”
A messenger from the king and the council arrives, and beckons Safeni. I
said to him, “Safeni, use your wit.” “Please God, master,” he replied.
Safeni drew nearly all the crowd after him, for curiosity is strong in
the African. I saw him pose himself. A born diplomatist was Safeni. His
hands moved up and down, outward and inward; a cordial frankness sat
naturally on his face; his gestures were graceful; the man was an
orator, pleading for mercy and justice.
Safeni returned, his face radiant. “It is all right, master, there is no
fear. They say we must stop here until to-morrow.”
“Will they sell us food?”
“Oh, yes, as soon as they settle their shauri.”
While Safeni was speaking, six men rushed up and seized the oars.
Safeni, though hitherto politic, lost temper at this, and endeavoured to
prevent them. They raised their clubs to strike him. I shouted, “Let
them go, Safeni.”
A loud cheer greeted the seizure of the oars. I became convinced now
that this one little act would lead to others; for man is the same all
over the world. Set a beggar on horseback, and he will ride to the
devil; give a slave an inch, and he will take an ell; if a man submit
once, he must be prepared to submit again.
The “shauri” proceeded. Another messenger came, demanding five cloths
and five fundo of necklaces. They were delivered. But as it was now near
noon, and they were assured we could not escape, the savages withdrew to
their nearest village to refresh themselves with wine and food.
After the warriors had departed, some women came to look at us. We spoke
kindly to them, and in return they gave us the consoling assurance that
we should be killed; but they said that if we could induce Shekka to
make blood-brotherhood, or to eat honey with one of us, we should be
safe. If we failed, there was only flight or death. We thanked them, but
we would wait.
About 3 P.M. we heard a number of drums beaten. Safeni was told that if
the natives collected again he must endeavour to induce Shekka with
gifts to go through the process of blood-brotherhood.
A long line of natives in full war costume appeared on the crest of the
terrace, on which the banana grove and village of Kajurri stood. Their
faces were smeared with black and white pigments. Almost all of them
bore the peculiar shields of Usongora. Their actions were such as the
dullest-witted of us recognised as indicating hostilities.
Even Safeni and Baraka were astounded, and their first words were,
“Prepare, master. Truly, this is trouble.”
“Never mind me,” I replied, “I have been ready these three hours. Are
you ready, your guns and revolvers loaded, and your ears open this
time?”
“We are,” they all firmly answered.
“Don’t be afraid; be quite cool. We will try, while they are collecting
together, the woman’s suggestion. Go frankly and smilingly, Safeni, up
to Shekka, on the top of that hill, and offer him these three fundo of
beads, and ask him to exchange blood with you.”
Safeni proceeded readily on his errand, for there was no danger to him
bodily while we were there within 150 yards, and their full power as yet
unprepared. For ten minutes he conversed with them, while the drums kept
beating, and numbers of men bepainted for war were increasing Shekka’s
force. Some of them entertained us by demonstrating with their spears
how they fought; others whirled their clubs like tipsy Irishmen at
Donnybrook fair. Their gestures were wild, their voices were shrill and
fierce, they were kindling themselves into a fighting fever.
Safeni returned. Shekka had refused the pledge of peace. The natives now
mustered over 300.
Presently fifty bold fellows came rushing down, uttering a shrill cry.
Without hesitation they came straight to the boat, and, hissing
something to us, seized our Kiganda drum. It was such a small affair we
did not resist; still the manner in which it was taken completely
undeceived us, if any small hope of peace remained. Loud applause
greeted the act of gallantry.
Then two men came towards us, and began to drive some cows away that
were grazing between us and the men on the hill. Safeni asked one of
them, “Why do you do that?”
“Because we are going to begin fighting presently, and if you are men,
you may begin to prepare yourselves,” he said scornfully.
“Thanks, my bold friend,” I muttered to myself. “Those are the truest
words we have heard to-day.”
The two men were retiring up the hill. “Here Safeni,” I said, “take
these two fine red cloths in your hand; walk slowly up after them a
little way, and the minute you hear my voice run back; and you, my boys,
this is for life and death, mind; range yourselves on each side of the
boat, lay your hands on it carelessly, but with a firm grip, and when I
give the word, push it with the force of a hundred men down the hill
into the water. Are you all ready, and do you think you can do it?
Otherwise we might as well begin fighting where we are.”
“Yes, Inshallah Master,” they cried out with one voice.
“Go, Safeni!”
I waited until he had walked fifty yards away, and saw that he acted
precisely as I had instructed him.
“Push, my boys; push for your lives!”
The crew bent their heads and strained their arms; the boat began to
move, and there was a hissing, grinding noise below me. I seized my
double-barrelled elephant rifle and shouted, “Safeni! Safeni, return!”
The natives were quick-eyed. They saw the boat moving, and with one
accord they swept down the hill uttering the most fearful cries.
My boat was at the water’s edge. “Shoot her into the lake, my men; never
mind the water”; and clear of all obstructions she darted out upon the
lake.
Safeni stood for an instant on the water’s edge, with the cloths in his
hand. The foremost of a crowd of natives was about twenty yards from
him. He raised his spear and balanced himself.
“Spring into the water, man, head first,” I cried.
The balanced spear was about to fly, and another man was preparing his
weapon for a deadly cast, when I raised my gun and the bullet ploughed
through him and through the second. The bowmen halted and drew their
bows. I sent two charges of duck-shot into their midst with terrible
effect. The natives retreated from the beach on which the boat had
lately lain.
Having checked the natives, I assisted one of my men into the boat, and
ordered him to lend a hand to the others, while I reloaded my big guns,
keeping my eyes on the natives. There was a point about 100 yards in
length on the east, which sheltered the cove. Some of the natives made a
rush for this, but my guns commanded the exposed position, and they were
obliged to retire.
The crew seized their rifles, but I told them to leave them alone, and
to tear the bottom-boards out of the boat and use them as paddles; for
there were two hippopotami advancing upon us open-mouthed, and it seemed
as if we were to be crushed in the water after such a narrow escape from
the ferocious people ashore. I permitted one of the hippos to approach
within ten yards, and, aiming between his eyes, perforated his skull
with a three-ounce ball, and the second received such a wound that we
were not molested by him.
Meanwhile the savages, baffled and furious at seeing their prey escape,
had rushed, after a short consultation, to man two canoes that were
drawn up on the beach at the north-west corner of the cove. Twice I
dropped men as they endeavoured to launch the boats; but they persisted,
and finally, launching them, pursued us vigorously. Two other canoes
were seen coming down the coast from the eastern side of the island.
Unable to escape, we stopped after we had got out of the cove, and
waited for them.
My elephant rifle was loaded with explosive balls for this occasion.
Four shots killed five men and sank two of the canoes. The two others
retired to assist their friends out of the water. They attempted nothing
further, but some of those on shore had managed to reach the point, and
as we resumed our paddles, we heard a voice cry out, “Go and die in the
Nyanza!” and saw them shoot their arrows, which fell harmlessly a few
yards behind us. We were saved!
It was 5 P.M. We had only four bananas in the boat, and we were twelve
hungry men. If we had a strong fair breeze, a day and a night would
suffice to enable us to reach our camp. But if we had head-winds, the
journey might occupy a month. Meanwhile, after the experience of
Makongo, Alice Island, and Bumbireh, where should we apply for food?
Fresh water we had in abundance, sufficient to satisfy the thirst of all
the armies of the world for a century. But food? Whither should we turn
for it?
A gentle breeze came from the island. We raised the lug sail, hoping
that it would continue fair for a south-east course. But at 7 P.M. it
fell a dead calm. We resumed our extemporized paddles—those thin weak
bottom-boards. Our progress was about three-quarters of a mile per hour.
Throughout the night we laboured, cheering one another. In the morning
not a speck of land was visible: all was a boundless circle of grey
water.
_April 29._—About 9 A.M. a squall came fair and drove us about eight
miles to the south; about 10.30 it became calm again, but still we
paddled unceasingly. At night we found ourselves about seven miles away
from an island to the southward of us, and we made noble efforts to
reach it. But a gale came up from the south-west, against which it was
useless to contend. The crew were fatigued and weakened after paddling
forty-nine hours without food.
We resigned ourselves to the waves and the rain that was falling in
sheets, and the driving tempest. Up and down we rose and sank on the
great waves, battered from side to side, swung round, plunged in dark
hollows, and bathed in spray. We baled the boat out, and again sat down.
At midnight the gale moderated and the moon rose, throwing a weird light
upon the face of the lake and its long heaving billows, which still
showed high crests whitened with foam. Up and down we rose and plunged.
The moon now shone clear upon the boat and her wretched crew, ghastlily
lighting up the crouching, wearied, despairing forms, from which there
sometimes rose deep sighs that wrung my heart. “Cheer up, my lads, think
nothing of the curse of those of Bumbireh; bad men’s curses sometimes
turn out blessings,” I said, to encourage them. One of the thwarts was
chopped up, and we made a fire, and with some of the coffee which I had
obtained from Colonel Linant at Mtesa’s we felt somewhat refreshed. And
then, completely wearied out, they all slept, but I watched, busy with
my thoughts.
_April 30._—The morning came, the morning of the 30th of April, and
though my men had only eaten four bananas between them and tasted,
besides, a cup of coffee since 10 A.M. of the 27th, they nevertheless,
sixty-eight hours afterwards, when I urged them to resume their paddles
that we might reach an island twelve miles south of us, rallied to my
appeal with a manliness which won my admiration, responding with heroic
will but, alas! with little strength.
At 2 P.M.—seventy-six hours after leaving Alice Island—we approached a
cove in an uninhabited island, which I have distinguished on the chart
by the name of “Refuge.” We crawled out of the boat, and each of us
thanked God for even this little mercy and lay down on the glowing sand
to rest.
But food must be obtained before night. Baraka and Safeni were sent to
explore the interior in one direction, Murabo and Marzouk in another.
Robert and Hamoidah were set to kindle a fire, and I took my shot-gun to
shoot birds. Within half an hour I had obtained a brace of large fat
ducks; Baraka and Safeni returned each with two bunches of young green
bananas, and Murabo and his comrade had discovered some luscious berries
like cherries.
And what glad souls were we that evening around our camp fire with
this gracious abundance to which a benignant Providence had led us,
storm-tossed, bruised, and hungry creatures that we were but a few
hours before! Bananas, ducks, berries, and coffee! The tobacco gourd
and pipe closed one of the most delicious evenings I ever remember to
have passed. No wonder that before retiring, feeling ourselves indebted
to the Supreme Being, who had preserved us through so many troubles, we
thanked Him for His mercies and His bounties.
_May 2._—We rested another day on Refuge Island to make oars; and
further explorations enabled us to procure half-a-dozen more bunches of
bananas. Our appetites were so keen that there was but little left next
morning by the time we were ready to start afresh. With oar and sail we
set out for Singo Island. Perceiving it was uninhabited, we steered for
Ito Island, the slopes of which were rich with plantains, but the
natives slung stones at us, and we were therefore obliged to continue on
our way to the Kuneneh group, near the peninsula of Ukerewé.
_May 4._—On the afternoon of the 4th of May, a stormy head-wind rising,
we were compelled to turn into the cove of Wiru, where, through the
influence of Saramba the guide, who was at home in this country, we were
hospitably received, and meat, potatoes, milk, honey, bananas both ripe
and green, eggs and poultry, were freely sold to us. We cooked these
delicacies on board, and ate them with such relish and appetite as only
half-starved men can appreciate.
_May 5._—Hoping to reach our camp next morning, we set sail at 9 P.M.,
steering across Speke Gulf. But about 3 A.M., when we were nearly in
mid-gulf, the fickle wind failed us, and then, as if resolved we should
taste to the uttermost the extreme of suffering, it met us with a
tempest from the N.N.E., as fearful in other respects as that which we
experienced at Usuguru, but with the fresh torments added of hailstones
as large as filberts. The sky was robed in inky blackness, not a star
was visible, vivid lightnings flashed accompanied by loud thunder
crashes, and furious waves tossed us about as though we were imprisoned
in a gourd, the elements thus combining to multiply the terrors of our
situation. Again we resigned the boat to wind and wave, as all our
efforts to keep our course were unavailing.
We began to think that the curse of the people of Bumbireh, “Go and die
in the Nyanza,” might be realized after all—though I had much faith in
the staunch craft which Messenger of Teddington so conscientiously
constructed.
_May 6._—A grey, cheerless morning dawned at last, and we discovered
ourselves to be ten miles north of Rwoma, and about twenty miles
north-west of Kagehyi. We put forth our best efforts, hoisted sail, and
though the wind was but little in our favour at first, it soon veered
round, and sent us sailing merrily over the tall waves, and along the
coast of Usukuma, straight towards camp.
Shouts of welcome greeted us from shore, for the people had recognized
us by our sail when miles away, and as we drew nearer the shouts
changed to volleys of musketry, and the waving of flags, and the land
seemed alive with leaping forms of the glad-hearted men. For we had
been fifty-seven days away from our people, and many a false rumour had
reached them of our deaths, strengthened each day that our return was
deferred and our absence grew longer. But the sight of the exploring
boat sailing towards Kagehyi dissipated all alarm, concern, and fear.
As the keel grounded, fifty men bounded into the water, dragged me from
the boat, and danced me round the camp on their shoulders, amid much
laughter, and clapping of hands, grotesque wriggling of forms, and real
Saxon hurrahing.
Frank Pocock was there, his face lit up by fulness of joy, but when I
asked him where Frederick Barker was, and why he did not come to welcome
me, Frank’s face clouded with the sudden recollection of our loss, as he
answered, “Because he died twelve days ago, Sir, and he lies there,”
pointing gravely to a low mound of earth by the lake!
[Illustration:
CAIRN ERECTED TO THE MEMORY OF FREDERICK BARKER:
MAJITA, AND URIRWI MOUNTAINS IN THE DISTANCE, ACROSS SPEKE GULF.
(_From a photograph by the Author._)]
]
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# 14:
Owing to the events which are recorded in this chapter I was unable to
return to Mtesa’s capital within the time specified to M. Linant, but
it is evident that my friend waited nearly six weeks for me. He
sustained a fierce attack for fourteen hours from several thousand
Wanyoro _en route_ to Ismailia, but finally succeeded in making his
escape, and reaching Colonel Gordon’s headquarters in safety. On the
26th August, however, being on another mission, he was attacked by the
Baris near a place called Labore, and he and his party of thirty-six
soldiers were massacred. This sad event occurred four days after I
returned on my second visit to the Ripon Falls.