to dine. To judge by the materials of the feast, so blended were the
productions of every climate that we could scarcely have pronounced in
what part of the world we were, had not the profusion of ananas and
plantains, compared with the small quantity of apples and peaches,
reminded us of it. As is usual on such occasions, the oldest inhabitants
of Brazil praised most what came from afar; while _we_ all gave the
preference to the productions of the country.
I was soon drawn away from the table by the beauty of the prospect,
which I endeavoured to sketch. The coffee plantations are the only
cultivated grounds hereabouts; and they are so thickly set with orange
trees, lemons, and other tall shrubs, that they form in appearance
rather a variety in the woods, than that mixture of cultivated with wild
ground, which might be looked for so near a large city, where we expect
to see the labour of man encroaching in some degree on the wild beauties
of nature. But here vegetation is so luxuriant, that even the pruned and
grafted tree springs up like the native of the forest.
As every body was determined to be pleased, we all felt sorry when it
was time to separate; but Burns has made all the reflections one can
make on breaking up a pleasant party--
"Pleasures are like poppies spread,--
You seize the flower, the bloom is shed;
Or like the snow-falls in the river,--
A moment white, then lost for ever;
Or like the rainbow's fleeting form,
Evanishing amid the storm;
Or like the borealis race,
That flit ere you can point their place.
No man can tether time or tide:
The hour approaches,--_we_ must ride."
And so we did.--We walked down to the foot of the hill, and each took
his or her several conveyance; Colonel and Mrs. Cunningham their
comfortable English chariot, Mr. and Miss Hayne their pretty curricle,
and I my Rio caleche or _sege_,--a commodious but ugly carriage, very
heavy, but well enough adapted to the rough roads between the garden and
the town. The gentlemen all rode, and most of us carried home something.
Fruit and flowers attracted some; Langford got a number of diamond
beetles, and a magnificent butterfly, and I a most inadequate sketch of
the scene from the Padre's house.
_December 27th._--Since the jaunt to the botanical gardens, some of our
invalids have been gaining ground: others who were well have become
invalids, and I have done nothing but ride about or talk with them, and
look at the beautiful views of the neighbourhood, and get a little
better acquainted with the inhabitants; of whom the most amusing, so far
as I have yet seen, are certainly the negroes, who carry about the fruit
and vegetables for sale. The midshipmen have made friends with some of
them. One of them has become quite a friend in the house; and after he
has sold his master's fruit, earns a small gratuity for himself, by his
tales, his dances, and his songs. His tribe, it seems, was at war with a
neighbouring king, and he went out to fight when quite a boy, was taken
prisoner, and sold. This is probably the story of many: but our friend
tells it with action and emphasis, and shows his wounds, and dances his
war dance, and shouts his wild song, till the savage slave becomes
almost a sublime object. I have been for an hour to-night at a very
different scene, a ball given by Mr. B----, a respectable English
merchant. The Portuguese and Brazilian ladies are decidedly superior in
appearance to those of Bahia; they look of higher caste: perhaps the
residence of the court for so many years has polished them. I cannot
say the men partake of the advantage; but I cannot yet speak Portuguese
well enough to dare to pronounce what either men or women really are. As
to the English, what can I say? They are very like all one sees at home,
in their rank of life; and the ladies, very good persons doubtless,
would require Miss Austin's pen to make them interesting. However, as
they appear to make no pretensions to any thing but what they are, to me
they are good-humoured, hospitable, and therefore pleasing.
_Monday, 31st Dec. 1822_.--I went to town for the first time; our road
lay through the suburb of the Catete for about half a mile. Some
handsome houses are situated on either hand, and the spaces between are
filled with shops, and small houses inhabited by the families of the
shopkeepers in town. We then came to the hill called the Gloria, from
the name of the church dedicated to N.S. da Gloria, on the eminence
immediately overlooking the sea. The hill is green, and wooded and
studded with country-houses. It is nearly insulated; and the road passes
between it and another still higher, just where a most copious stream
issues from an aqueduct (built, I think, by the Conde de Lavradio), and
brings health and refreshment to this part of the town from the
neighbouring mountains. Farther on, after passing the beach of the
Gloria, we turned to the left, and entered the new part of that town
through the arches of the great aqueduct built in 1718 by the viceroy
Albuquerque. This supplies four copious fountains. The largest is the
Carioca[80], near the convent of Sant Antonio; it has twelve mouths, and
is most picturesque in itself: it is constantly surrounded by slaves,
with their water-barrels, and by animals drinking. Just beyond are
troughs of granite, where a crowd of washerwomen are constantly
employed; and over against these, benches are placed, on which there are
constantly seated new negroes for sale. The fountain of the Marecas is
opposite to the public gardens, and near the new barracks; and, besides
the spouts for water for the inhabitants, there are two troughs always
full for the animals. The third is a very handsome one, in the palace
square; and the fourth, called the Mouro, I did not see. The aqueduct
is of brick, and is supported on two ranges of arches across the valley
between two of the five hills of the city. The public buildings at Rio
have nothing very remarkable about them. Even the churches present no
architectural beauty, and owe the good effect they have in the general
view to their size and situation. There are seven parish churches, and
numerous chapels dependent on each. The first and eldest parish is that
of St. Sebastian; the church dedicated to whom is the royal chapel, the
only one I saw to-day. It is handsome within, richly gilt, and the
pictures on the ceiling are far from contemptible; but I cannot praise
that of the altar-piece, where Our Lady is covering with her cloak the
Queen Dona Maria, and all the royal family, on their arrival in Brazil.
The choir is served in a manner that would not disgrace Italy. I
attended at vespers, and have seldom been more gratified with the music
of the evening service. This the chapel owes to the residence of the
royal family, whose passion and talent for music are hereditary.
Adjoining to this chapel is the church and convent of the Carmelites,
which forms part of the palace; and within which is the royal library of
70,000 volumes, where on all days, except holidays, the public are
admitted to study from nine till one o'clock in the forenoon, and from
four o'clock till sunset. This part of the palace occupies one side of a
handsome square: the palace itself fills up another; a third has private
houses, built uniformly with the palace, besides the fish-market; and
the fourth is open to the sea. The water-edge is faced with a handsome
granite pier and steps, the blocks of which are bolted with copper. In
the centre of the pier there is a fountain, supplied from the aqueduct
of Albuquerque; and altogether the appearance of the palace square is
extremely handsome. We went thence into a street behind it, and saw the
front of the senate-house, which is connected with the palace, and the
cemetery of the Carmelite church, which is a prettier thing than
church-yards usually are. In the centre of a small quadrangle there is a
cross, and by it a young cypress tree: all around there are flowers, and
sweet herbs, and porcelain vases, containing roses and aloes placed on
little pedestals and on a broad low wall that surrounds the square. I
looked at first in vain for graves; at length I observed on these low
walls, and on the higher ones in the outer circle, indications of
arches, each being numbered. These are the places for the dead, who are
walled up there with quick-lime; and, at a certain period, the bones and
ashes are removed to make room for others. At the time of removal, if
the dead has a friend who wishes it, the remains are collected in urns
or other receptacles, and placed in a building appropriated for them, or
where the friend pleases; otherwise they go to the common receptacle,
and perish totally by the addition of more quick-lime. This is, I doubt
not, the wholesomest way of disposing of the dead; and, even to the
sense, is better than the horrid burials at Bahia, where they must
infect the air. But there seems to me so little feeling in thus getting
rid at once of the remains of that which has once been dear to us, that
I went away in disgust.
[Illustration]
[Note 80: The nickname of the inhabitants of Rio is Carioca, from
this fountain.]
The city of Rio is more like an European city than either Bahia or
Pernambuco; the houses are three or four stories high, with projecting
roofs, and tolerably handsome. The streets are narrow, few being wider
than that of the Corso at Rome, to which one or two bear a resemblance
in their general air, and especially on days of festivals, when the
windows and balconies are decorated with crimson, yellow, or green
damask hangings. There are two very handsome squares, besides that of
the palace. One, formerly the Roça, is now that of the Constituçaõ, to
which the theatre, some handsome barracks and fine houses, behind which
the hills and mountains tower up on two sides, give a very noble
appearance. The other, the Campo de Santa Anna, is exceedingly
extensive[81], but unfinished. Two of the principal streets run across
it, from the sea-side to the extremity of the new town, nearly a league,
and new and wide streets are stretching out in every direction. But I
was too tired with going about in the heat of the day to do more than
take a cursory view of these things, and could not even persuade myself
to look at the new fountain which is supplied by a new aqueduct.
[Note 81: It is 1713 feet square.]
There is in the city an air of bustle and activity quite agreeable to
our European eyes; yet the Portuguese all take their siesta after
dinner. The negroes, whether free blacks or slaves, look cheerful and
happy at their labour. There is such a demand for them, that they find
full employment, and of course good pay, and remind one here as little
as possible of their sad condition, unless, indeed, one passes the
street of the Vallongo; then the slave-trade comes in all its horrors
before one's eyes. On either hand are magazines of new slaves, called
here _peices_; and there the wretched creatures are subject to all the
miseries of a new negro's life, scanty diet, brutal examination, and the
lash.
_Tuesday, January 1st, 1823_.--I went to pay a second visit to an
illustrious exile, Count Hogendorp, one of the Emperor Napoleon's
generals: my first had been accidental. One morning last week, riding
with two of our young midshipmen, we came to a pleasant-looking cottage,
high on the side of the Corcovado, and at the door we saw a very
striking figure, to whom I instantly apologized for intruding on his
grounds, saying that we were strangers, and had come there accidentally.
He instantly, with a manner that showed him to be no common person,
welcomed us; asked our names, and on being told them, said he had heard
of us; and, but for his infirmities, would have called on us. He
insisted on our dismounting, as a shower was coming on, and taking
shelter with him. By this time I perceived it was Count Hogendorp, and
asked him if I had guessed rightly. He answered, yes; and added a few
words, signifying that his master's servants, even in exile, carried
that with them which distinguished them from other men.
The Count is the wreck of a once handsome man: he has not lost his
martial air: he is tall, but not too thin; his grey eyes sparkle with
intelligence, and his pure and forcible language is still conveyed in a
clear well-toned voice, though a little the worse for age. He ushered us
into a spacious veranda, where he passes most of the day, and which is
furnished with sofas, chairs, and tables: he then ordered his servant to
bring breakfast; we had coffee, milk, and fresh butter, all the produce
of his own farm; and, as we sat, we saw the showers passing by and
under us across the valley, which leads the eye to the bay below. The
General entered frankly into conversation, and during breakfast, and
while the shower lasted, spoke almost incessantly of his imperial
master. Early in life the Count had entered the army, a soldier of
fortune, under Frederick of Prussia. On his return to his native
country, Holland, he was employed by the States, successively, as
governor of the eastern part of Java, and as envoy to one of the German
courts. During his residence in Java, he had visited many of the English
settlements on the main land of India, and had learned English, which he
spoke well.
[Illustration]
On the annexation of Holland to France, he entered the French service
with the rank of full colonel. He was always a great favourite with
Napoleon, to whom his honesty and disinterestedness in money matters
seem to have been valuable, in proportion as these qualities were scarce
among his followers. The Count's affection for him is excessive, I
should have said unaccountable, had he not shown me a letter written to
him by the emperor's own hand, on the death of his child, in which,
besides much general kindness, there is even a touch of tenderness I had
not looked for. During the disastrous expedition to Russia, Hogendorp
was entrusted with the government of Poland, and kept his court at
Wilna. His last public service was performed in the defence of Hamburgh,
where he was lieutenant governor. He would fain have attended the
emperor into exile; but that not being allowed, he came hither, where,
with the greatest economy, and, I believe, some assistance from the
prince, who has great respect for him, he lives chiefly on the produce
of his little farm.
Most of these particulars I learnt from himself, while resting and
sheltered from the rain, which lasted nearly an hour. He then showed me
his house, which is small indeed, consisting of only three rooms,
besides the veranda; his study, where a few books, two or three casts
from antique bas reliefs, and some maps and prints, indicate the
retirement of a gentleman; his bedroom, the walls of which, with a
capricious taste, are painted black, and on that sombre ground,
skeletons of the natural size, in every attitude of glee, remind one of
Holbein's Dance of Death; and a third room occupied by barrels of orange
wine, and jars of liqueur made of the grumaxama, at least as agreeable
as cherry brandy which it resembles, the produce of his farm; and the
sale of which, together with his coffee, helps out his slender income.
The General, as he loves to be called, led us round his garden, and
displayed with even fondness, his fruits and his flowers, extolled the
climate, and only blamed the people, for the neglect and want of
industry, which wastes half the advantages God has given them. On
returning to the house, he introduced to me his old Prussian servant,
who has seen many a campaign with him, and his negroes, whom he freed on
purchasing them: he has induced the woman to wear a nose jewel, after
the fashion of Java, which he seems to remember with particular
pleasure. I was sorry to leave the count, but was afraid some alarm
might be felt at home concerning us, and therefore bade him adieu.
This evening I paid him another visit, and found him resting after
dinner in his veranda. We had a good deal of conversation concerning the
state of this country, from which, with prudence, every thing good may
be hoped; and then the Count told me he was engaged in writing his
memoirs, of which he showed me a part, telling me he meant to publish
them in England. I have no doubt they will be written with fidelity, and
will furnish an interesting chapter in the history of Napoleon. I was
sorry to see the old gentleman suffering a good deal; and his age and
infirmities seem to threaten a speedy termination to his active
life.[82]
[Note 82: Count Hogendorp died while I was in Chile. Napoleon had
left him by his will five thousand pounds sterling, but the old man did
not live to know this proof of the recollection of his old master. As he
approached his end, the Emperor Don Pedro sent to him such assistance,
and paid him such attention as his state required or admitted of, and
had given orders concerning his funeral; but it was found at his death
that he was a protestant, and one of the protestant consuls therefore
caused him to be properly interred in the English burial-ground. On
undressing him after death, his body was found to be tattooed like those
of the natives of the eastern islands. I never saw the count after the
1st of January.]
_January 8th, 1822._--The only variety in my quiet life since the first,
was afforded by a large and pleasant party at Miss Hayne's. There I saw
abundance of jewels on the heads and necks of the elderly Portuguese
ladies, and a good deal of beauty, and some grace, among the younger
ones, whom I begin to understand pretty well. We had some good music,
and there was a great deal of dancing, and not a little card-playing.
To-day we left the house on shore, and are again at home on board the
Doris, with all our invalids much better. Having settled every body
comfortably, I went ashore to the opera, as it is the benefit night of a
favourite musician, Rosquellas, whose name is known on both sides of the
Atlantic. The theatre is very handsome; in size and proportion, some of
our officers think it as large as the Haymarket, but I differ from them.
It was opened on the 12th of October, 1813, the Prince Don Pedro's
birth-day. The boxes are commodious, and I hear, that the unseen part of
the theatre is comfortable for the actors, dressers, &c.; but the
machinery and decorations are deficient. The evening's amusements
consisted of a very stupid Portuguese comedy, relieved between the acts
by scenes from an opera of Rossini's by Rosquellas, after which, he
wasted a great deal of fine playing on some very ugly music.
_Wednesday, January 9th._--To-day is expected to be a day of much
importance to the future fate of Brazil. But I must go back to the
arrival of a message from the cortes at Lisbon, intimating to the Prince
their pleasure, that he should forthwith repair to Europe, and begin his
education, and proceed to travel incognito through Spain, France, and
England. This message excited the most lively indignation not only in
His Royal Highness, but in the Brazilians from one end of the kingdom to
the other. The Prince is willing to obey the orders of his father and
the cortes, at the same time he cannot but feel as a man the want of
decency of the message, and being thus bid to go home; and especially
forbidden to carry any guards with him, as it should seem, lest they
might have contracted too much attachment for his person. The Brazilians
regard this step as preliminary to removing from this country the courts
of justice, which have for fourteen years been held here, and so
removing causes to Lisbon, by which means, Brazil would be again reduced
to the condition of a dependent colony instead of enjoying equal rights
and privileges with the mother country, a degradation they are by no
means inclined to submit to.
The feelings of the people are sufficiently shown, in the address sent
to the Prince, a few days ago, (24th of December,) from St. Paul's; as
follows:--
"SIR,
"We had already written to Your Royal Highness, before we received the
extraordinary gazette of the 11th instant, by the last courier: and we
had hardly fixed our eyes on the first decree of the Cortes concerning
the organization of the governments of the provinces of Brazil, when a
noble indignation fired our hearts: because we saw impressed on it a
system of anarchy and slavery. But the second, in conformity to which
Your Royal Highness is to go back to Portugal, in order to travel
_incognito_ only through Spain, France, and England, inspired us with
horror.
"They aim at no less than disuniting us, weakening us, and in short,
leaving us like miserable orphans, tearing from the bosom of the great
family of Brazil the only common father who remained to us, after they
had deprived Brazil of the beneficent founder of the kingdom, Your Royal
Highness's august sire. They deceive themselves; we trust in God, who is
the avenger of injustice; He will give us courage, and wisdom.
"If, by the 21st article of the basis of the constitution, which we
approve and swear to because it is founded on universal and public
right, the deputies of Portugal were bound to agree that the
constitution made at Lisbon could then be obligatory on the Portuguese
resident in that kingdom; and, that, as for those in the other three
parts of the world, it should only be binding when their legitimate
representatives should have declared such to be their will: How dare
those deputies of Portugal, without waiting for those of Brazil,
legislate concerning the most sacred interest of each province, and of
the entire kingdom? How dare they split it into detached portions, each
insulated, and without leaving a common centre of strength and union?
How dare they rob Your Royal Highness of the lieutenancy, granted by
Your Royal Highness's august father, the King? How dare they deprive
Brazil of the privy council, the board of conscience, the court of
exchequer, the board of commerce, the court of requests, and so many
other recent establishments, which promised such future advantage? Where
now shall the wretched people resort in behalf of their civil and
judicial interests? Must they now again, after being for twelve years
accustomed to judgment at hand, go and suffer, like petty colonists, the
delays and chicanery of the tribunals of Lisbon, across two thousand
leagues of ocean, where the sighs of the oppressed lose all life and all
hope? Who would credit it, after so many bland, but deceitful
expressions of reciprocal equality and future happiness!!!
"In the session of the 6th of August last, the deputy of the Cortes,
Pereira do Carmo, said, (and he spoke the truth,) that the constitution
was the social compact, in which, were expressed and declared the
conditions on which a nation might wish to constitute itself a body
politic: and that the end of that constitution, is the general good of
each individual, who is to enter into that social compact. How then
dares a mere fraction of the great Portuguese nation, without waiting
for the conclusion of this solemn national compact, attack the general
good of the principal part of the same, and such is the vast and rich
kingdom of Brazil; dividing it into miserable fragments, and, in a word,
attempting to tear from its bosom the representative of the executive
power, and to annihilate by a stroke of the pen, all the tribunals and
establishments necessary to its existence and future prosperity? This
unheard-of despotism, this horrible political perjury, was certainly not
merited by the good and generous Brazil. But the enemies of order in the
Cortes of Lisbon deceive themselves if they imagine that they can thus,
by vain words and hollow professions, delude the good sense of the
worthy Portuguese of both worlds.