_Observations at Constantinople — Paswân Oglo — Character of

the present Sultan — State of learning — Public libraries —

Turkish taste — Coals — Greek printing-house — Navy — Return

to England._

When I arrived at Constantinople there was a considerable alarm

raised by the progress of the arms of _Paswân Oglo_, Pasha of

Wîddîn. Originally Aga of that city, that is, chief of the

Janizaries and commandant, he formed a powerful opposition to the

Pasha, consisting of many rich and eminent inhabitants, who were

dissatisfied with the Pasha’s conduct. By numerous intrigues

and disputes the latter was gradually deprived of his authority,

and Paswân Oglo usurped his place. After the last Russian war,

the Porte being much in want of money, had recourse to new and

unpopular measures of finance. Taxes were for the first time imposed

on articles of consumption, as grain and wine. Paswân availed himself

of the discontents occasioned by these impositions, and as his power

increased boasted that he would correct such abuses.

The Porte, following its usual policy of rewarding where it cannot

punish, of decorating the head which it wishes to strike off,

confirmed Paswân in the Pashalik. His military force at first did not

exceed four or five thousand, but, by the influx of the discontented,

was now swelled to fifteen thousand or more, of enthusiastic and

determined followers. Most of them consisted of the Janizaries on

that side of Romélia, who were extremely dissatisfied at having

passed unrewarded after the brilliant actions they had performed

against the Austrian arms, and at the encouragement given to the

recently established corps of Fusileers, an innovation which stung

their ancient prejudices.

The Aga of the Janizaries at Constantinople, being consulted on

the suppression of the rebellion, gave his opinion, that there was

danger lest the Janizaries should go over to their brethren. The

Diwân assembled in great perplexity, all were irresolute, till the

Capitan-pasha, Hussein, said, “Nothing can be more easy than to

crush this rebel.” The members instantly retorted, that if it were

so easy, why not undertake that duty himself. Hussein exclaimed,

“Only give me the means, and I pledge myself to conduct them!”

He was in consequence appointed, and abundant supplies of men and

money were assigned. Instead of Janizaries, the Timariots or feudal

troops of Asia were summoned. Before I left Turkey a slight skirmish

had taken place. The troops which marched against Wîddîn were

computed at one hundred and fifty thousand. Paswân Oglo, unable

to meet such a multitude in the field, was contented to defend

Wîddîn. His success and further progress are sufficiently known.

A new institution had been recently ordained by the reigning

Sultan. Perceiving that his troops had been unable to oppose those

of Russia, he had, with the assistance of the French, who supplied

non-commissioned officers to instruct them, founded a regular corps

of infantry, consisting of about one thousand. They were clothed

in a tighter dress, and their arms[63] supplied by government. The

French have also assisted the Turks in casting a great number of

brass field-pieces and battering cannon; nor are they without some

flying artillery.

The present Sultan is not deficient in discernment, or warm wishes

to promote the happiness of his people; but through the usual

imperfection of his education, he is the slave of his own impetuosity,

and a stranger to the recesses of the human heart. His motives

are generally right, but the means, opposed by popular prejudices,

are often ineffectual.

Sultan Selim, after correcting the police of the capital, turned

his beneficent views to the encouragement of learning among his

subjects. He has revived the mathematical school, in which, however,

small progress had been made; his ignorance of the world leading him

to think that his orders can form minds, and that a pension confers

capacity. He has restored the printing office, and a new Arabic type

was casting by an ingenious Armenian. But whether the improvement of

the type may contribute to the diffusion of solid knowlege among the

Turks, may fairly be questioned. The first book ordered to be printed

was a Persian dictionary. An engraver on copper is also settled here,

the subjects are the armillary sphere, some plans of fortification,

the box-compass, and the like.

The Turks are remarkable for half-measures. In the mathematical

and marine school, a substantial and commodious building, they

are furnished with every thing—except instruments and books; the

class small or none; but the end of the institution is considered

as completely answered, as there are professors who meet and smoke

their pipes together.

There are several _Kuttub-chans_, or public libraries, among which

the principal are those of St. Sophia and the Solimanié Jamasy;

but none so elegant as that built by Raghib Pasha, formerly Grand

Wizîr. The magnificent institutions of this great man being envied by

the Sultan of the day, his head was the forfeit of his virtues. This

library is an insulated building, in the middle of a square court,

consisting entirely of marble, and very neat and convenient. A

large tomb, decorated with gilt brass, in which Raghib Pasha is

buried, forms the centre of the library. Around are numerous books,

on all subjects, chiefly as usual theology; convenient seats and

elegant carpets and cushions for the readers. A librarian constantly

attends. The light is well disposed, and the place perfectly quiet;

so that I have no where seen a building or institution more complete

of the kind. The apartment is raised above the ground by seven or

eight easy steps. Fronting the street there is a school, founded by

the same Pasha. It is a convenient room, of thirty-five feet long

and proportionate width, where about an hundred boys are taught to

read and write, and the more simple part of their theology. There is

only one class, which attends every day for two hours in the morning

and two in the afternoon.

I met with a Mohammedan, a native of _Balk_, who understood the first

six books of Euclid. A young Englishman, who has embraced Islamism,

and is lately established at Constantinople, had translated Euclid

into Turkish, and published an astronomical ephemeris. Having

received some encouragement, he was proceeding to read lectures

on mathematical subjects. Many scribes are found here who write

elegantly and correctly.

The national taste does not seem rapidly to improve. One of the

Sultanas, sisters of the monarch, has not long since built a villa

on the Bosphorus, half in the European style, half in the Chinese.

There is a considerable market for books, containing many shops,

well supplied.

Strata of coals are found at about four hours distance on the European

side. An officer in the service of the Porte informed me that he had

at first obtained the exclusive right of working them. He sent them

to the Crimea. Since that time better coals having been found in that

country, and the right of working them having been soon afterwards

taken from him, the mine was neglected, and then discontinued. It

was difficult to work on account of the sandy soil which fell in. He

said he could sell them at Constantinople for a para the oke.

Went to a Greek printing-house conducted by an Armenian. They were

printing a small exhortation in the Greek language, written by

Anthimus, Patriarch of Jerusalem, against the prevailing tenets of

Deism and Atheism. They throw off about a thousand sheets a day.

The navy has of late been greatly improved by Le Brun and other

French ship-builders. On the 2d of April 1798 there were eight ships

of war at anchor in the Bosphorus; three seventy-fours, four fifties,

one forty. The whole navy amounts to fifteen ships, fit for service,

and of considerable force.

The Turkish women, in fine weather, ape the European custom of taking

the air in their carriages, in a great square; but they are concealed

in small latticed waggons, and veiled. They thus lose the best part

of the display, “the mighty pleasure of being seen.”

I shall close my remarks on Constantinople with observing, that

the country between it and Adrianople is completely plain, and that

the capital is, on the land side, incapable of any defence against

a victorious army. The uncertainty of the winds and channels join

with the forts to defend the other side from any sudden assault.

Proceeding through Wallachia to Vienna, Prague, Dresden, Leipsic,

Potsdam, Berlin, and Hamburg, I arrived in London on the 16th of

September, 1798, after an absence of nearly seven years.

CHAP. XXIX.

_Comparative view of life and happiness in the East and in Europe._

—_Et qui plus est, il me semble que je n’ay rencontré guere de

manieres, qui ne vaillent les nostres._ MONTAIGNE.

The great contrast which is observable between the manners and

personal character of the Orientals and Europeans, insensibly leads

to a comparison of its result in society. The character of every

nation merits the attention of the philosopher; and the less that

nation resembles ourselves, the more its distinguishing features

require our investigation.

While vanity instigates us to claim an undisputed superiority,

experience often compels us to doubt the validity of the sentence

on which we insist. We are fearful of being reduced to acknowlege,

that the labour, the thought, the agitation which have place among

us, often augment not the happiness of the individual, and are of

doubtful utility to the collective body. It is not however designed

to insist on any such concession; and only a few considerations

shall be offered in the order that they arise.

—Animo satis hæc vestigia parva sagaci

Sunt, per quæ possis cognoscere cætera tutè.

LUCRETIUS.

Impatience, activity, and sanguine hope, are habits of an European. By

education his imagination is exalted and his ideas are multiplied. By

reading, and frequent intercourse with foreigners, he is enabled

to present to himself the state of distant times and remote

nations. Their knowlege, their arts, their pleasures become familiar

to him; and, from a fixed principle of the human mind, the lively

idea of all these advantages generates the hope of appropriating

them. His first attempt is haply crowned with success, and he is

thus stimulated to farther effort: but as the bounds fixed to his

attainments are removed the farther he advances, and improvement is

infinite, his ultimate disappointment is inevitable, and it is felt

with a poignancy proportioned to the confidence of his first hopes.

The habits of the Oriental, on the contrary, are indolence, gravity,

patience. His ideas are few in number; and his sentiments in course

equally rare. They are, however, generally correct, springing from the

objects around him, and for the most part limited to those objects.

A chief cause of this contrast, must be the mode of education in

each community. Education should be the art of forming man on the

principles of nature; by due attention to her unerring progress,

no advantage of life can remain unimproved, and no duty can be

misunderstood. But in no nation with whose history we are acquainted,

has such a system been established. Almost every one forms its

disciples on the narrow views of that community, and nature is

distorted and paralised by authority.

The leading fault of education in the various parts of the Turkish

empire, originates in the prevailing superstition. Wherever this

does not operate, the practice is sufficiently rational.

The children of the Arabs early attain the character of manhood. A

grave demeanour, fortitude in suffering, respect for age,

filial affection, contempt for frivolous amusements, frugality,

temperance, hospitality, are taught in the easiest and most

effectual manner—by example; and where there is least probability

of counter-instruction—in the house of the father.

They are early taken out of the hands of women, and sent to study the

Korân; an employment which indeed has only the negative advantage of

saving a portion of their time from positive idleness. As they advance

towards maturity, little coercion is employed, but no incitement is

administered to error. The father gradually accustoms himself to

treat his son on the footing of an equal; who, on the other hand,

seldom forgets the respect which is not imperiously exacted.

The dress of children is free from ligatures, their diet simple,

and they are accustomed to variations of season, and enured

to fatigue. These are a part of the advantages of Oriental

education. Among its more serious inconveniences may be enumerated,

an excessive credulity, the offspring of profound ignorance, and a

keenness bordering on dishonesty and falshood. It is not easy to gain

knowlege which is not sought. The boy respects his father, and the

summit of his ambition is to imitate his sire. The parent is guided

chiefly by the reflection, how far he may extend his pursuit of gain

with impunity; of course a very refined morality is not to be expected

from the son. Happiness once confined to the small circle of a family,

little anxiety remains for the world at large. Hence the faintness

of the conception of a community, and the duties arising from it.

In Europe, education is the art of moulding the soul to the times;

and the preceptor is commonly successful in conveying the instruction,

of which experience has taught him the advantage, and which he is

no stranger to the mode of applying. Advancement is the object;

and to obtain it activity is required. This end is gained; but in

the art of directing the powers of his mind to the attainment of

his own happiness, or to the public utility, or of preserving his

body sane and vigorous, the man remains still a child; and thus the

true object of education is frustrated. We have on this head then,

it would seem, no great reason to boast our superiority.

The distinctive character of a nation is not to be sought in great

cities. The manners of these reciprocally approximate. In that part

of Egypt where the character of women is unsophisticated by mixture,

however strong their passions, they are not unchaste. This perhaps

proceeds more from the influence of public opinion, than the sanctions

of municipal law.

Among the people, as they are to take part in domestic duties, their

education is bounded by the useful. Among the opulent it extends to

the ornamental, and many females in Kahira are taught to read and

write. Instead of complaining of their seclusion as an injury, they

may sometimes be observed tenacious of it as a mark of respect. That

seclusion, though originating in the real or supposed licentiousness

of the sex, is, at this time, far from being the effect of individual

jealousy, but by long adoption, become a part of bien-séance. “I

consented to become your wife,” said a woman to her husband,

in my hearing, “that I might be veiled or private, _masturê_,

and remain tranquil in my family; not to be sent to the market,

to meet the eyes of _chalk-illah_, all the world.”

This seclusion of women has an important effect in society; and the

Orientals are accordingly, as has often been remarked, in a great

degree strangers to the passion of _love_. It is thought indecent in

company to speak much of women, and no man would venture to declare,

that he had a preference for a particular woman, or intended to

marry her.

Social intercourse is thus rendered less vivacious and amusing,

but numberless inquietudes are avoided. They who affirm, however,

that nothing is sought from women, among the people of the East,

but sensual gratification, seem to err. Why should a man, by having

several women, necessarily become insensible to what is amiable or

estimable in any individual among them? Or is individual character

rendered absolutely indistinct by their being associated together?

They are equally in error who assert, that women in the East are

slaves. Perhaps it might correctly be said that they are treated

as children; but, supposing this to be true, do not tenderness and

affection operate towards children?

They hold not the same rank as in Europe; and if they did, the

intrigues carried on in the _harem_, would render their husbands

and themselves miserable. In their present state, accidents of this

kind are not without ill effects, but, in general, serve rather

to minister a cause of diversion, than to produce any very serious

evil. Of course they give much less disturbance than in Europe.

The spirit of Chivalry, fostered by the Crusades, changed, in the

heated imagination of the youthful hero, the lovely object of his

desires, into a deity that was to be adored. The visible nature of

the divinity fanned the flame of devotion. Whether the fair benignly

smiled, or scornfully averted her countenance from the humble

votary, her perfections were equally the subject of his eulogies,

and her will of his propitiation. But all his services were sublimely

disinterested, and were to remain without hope of remuneration, till

giants should be immolated to her perfections, and widows and orphans

chaunt forth in her presence the praises of their generous deliverer.

These chaste amours, in which all was elevated, and all exquisitely

unnatural, according to modern ideas, were yet the foundation of the

rank women hold in modern Europe. This system, forced and contrary

to nature, could not long have place, and perhaps the sex itself

grew satiated with the frigid adulation of distant votaries, however

flattering to its vanity. A more licentious gallantry then took place,

and the charm was quickly dissolved. The intercourse between the sexes

being at length reduced to the simple gratification of the sensual

desire, society was almost in the same state in the West, as in the

East, at the period when the seclusion of females first took place.

But the Europeans adopted a different plan. They either despised the

security of bolts and bars as ineffectual, or too much of their former

respect yet remained to allow the attempt. The sex at length wearied,

but not satiated with simple sensuality, was governed in the choice of

its indulgences by caprice; and the men were studiously employed to

attract the æillades of their mistresses, and to chain this fickle

sentiment, by varied foppery and grimace. Hence the romantic tales

of our novels, hence the inconsequential conduct of their heroes,

and hence the agitations of our societies, at which the Orientals

would smile.

It is not said, that the miseries and violent dissensions which

exist in families, result from the rank females hold in European

society. Eternal litigations, and all the confusion of severe laws

and loose morals are not attributed to that cause. It is only hinted

that these evils are coëtaneous with that state of society, and that

the pure institution of matrimony may be enforced by the commanding

voice of religion, and sanctioned by municipal law, yet those evils

may remain without a remedy.

The young of each sex are, in Europe, brought together, and taught

to attach themselves to each other: but interdicted from uniting,

unless equal in rank, fortune, &c. Passion however is strongest at

an early age, when the reason which should guide it is weakest. But

the public institutions eternize the punishment of a momentary

folly. Parental authority, at other times, interferes, and pretending

only solicitude for the child’s happiness, renders both the parent

and the offspring miserable.

The husband is vain of exhibiting in public his admired bride. From

familiarities with a variety of men which, by being public,

are authorized, she is induced to try them in private. The man

becomes unhappy and ridiculous, the wife disgraced, and the lover

impoverished. Little or nothing of this is known in the East.

Another striking dissimilitude between the Europeans and Orientals

is observable in the number and quality of their respective laws,

and the administration of public justice. Though a multitude of

commentaries has been written on the simple maxims contained in the

Korân, applying them to the particular cases which occur in society,

the whole falls far short, in point of extent, of the most simple

systems of jurisprudence with which we are acquainted. The single

circumstance of each man being advocate in his own cause, contracts

all judicial proceedings to a small compass, and, whether justly

or unjustly, all legal disputes are speedily terminated. So that no

man can bequeath to his family the inheritance of judicial ruin.

It will no doubt be thought, that the corrupt character of judges,

and the sale of their decrees, are evils for which no advantages

can compensate; and here, at least, it may be urged, that in Europe

the administration of justice is more equal, and the right is not

generally to be shaken by a bribe.

On the other hand, whatever may be the integrity of the judges in

their decisions, the length and delay of the proceedings is sufficient

to re-produce all the evils which are thought to be obviated by the

absence of judicial corruption. If one of the parties be poor and the

other rich, the latter commonly has the option of ruining the former

by throwing impediments in the way of a decision; and it is of little

importance to a man to know that he is ultimately victorious, when his

property is already consumed, ere the cause draw near its termination.

But independently of the immense expense of a process in most

countries of Europe, the anxiety and suspense while it is depending,

tend to lessen the happiness of society, and are, by their frequency,

serious evils.

Domestic manners furnish a more minute, but not unimportant

contrast. In receiving strangers at his house and when they leave

it, the Oriental testifies no great emotion. The visitor is welcomed

rather by actions than words. An Arab or Turk having once accorded

protection, which he does with a kind of distance and hauteur, never

afterwards withdraws it, and his word may be relied on. In visiting,

as is well known, the common but absurd practice, which obtains among

ourselves, of urging those to stay longer, of whose company one is

already tired, is obviated by the simple use of a little scented

wood in a censer.

In their communications every thing tends rather to tranquillize the

mind, than to excite the passions. The quarrels of the mere mob,

indeed, evaporate in idle vociferation; but among persons of any

breeding, the voice is scarcely ever raised above its ordinary tone.

The greatest number of menials in a family (and in the East they are

very numerous) occasions no confusion. All is conducted in silence

and order. All such directions as are in the common routine of

affairs, are given by signs, and are instantly understood; not from

pride, or as implying the vast distance between master and servant,

but principally to avoid all _equivoque_, when persons of various

descriptions are present, and, by making secresy a uniform habit,

to avoid all suspicion from the adoption of mystery in giving orders

before company, when any thing is to be said which it is not intended

that company should hear.

The ingenuity of man in contriving his own unhappiness, is in no part

of the world more conspicuous than in Europe. Our mutual intercourse

is so beset with forms, that it becomes doubtful whether it be a good

or an evil; and the individual, not unfrequently, leaves a company

dissatisfied that he ever entered into it. Hence a continued desire

of changing place and forming new acquaintance.

Whenever a number of persons meet together, eating and drinking

seem to be a necessary bond of union; and they often do not separate

without that kind of festivity which impairs the health of each, and

creates dissensions, as it were, by its mechanical operation. The

sole benefit which results from the social meals of the Arabs, is

to us entirely unknown.—No man thinks himself incapacitated from

injuring his neighbour, in consequence of having divided with him

a loaf of bread, and a little salt, at the convivial board.

Travels in Africa, Egypt, and Syria, from the year 1792 to 1798 · 第 25 / 30 段