the timbers; none of them are crooked except naturally so. They are
very slender, and where the upper and lower ribs join, do not pass
one over the other, but by the side of each other.
At Suez coffee forms the chief article of trade. It is a place of no
strength, and has only eight old cannon, seemingly unfit for service;
the others were removed to Jizé by Ismaîl Bey. The sea here produces
few fish. Oysters indeed, and a few others of the shell kind, are
seen; the best fish not coming higher than Cossîr. Meat is scarce,
bread of an inferior quality, sometimes hardly eatable. Butter and
milk are brought in small quantities by the Arabs. Water is brought
from three several places. _Bîr Naba_, to the northward, affords
the best; the others are _Aiûn Mûsa_ and _Bîr-es-Suez_. It is
always bought by the skin at a considerable price, and if a war were
to arise with the Arabs, none could be found.
I was very desirous to inspect the Eastern portion of the canal cut by
Adrian, according to D’Anville, which extends from _Birket-es-Sheib_
to Suez, but my Arab guides would not accompany me, in spite of a
previous agreement made for that purpose. All consented that marks
of the canal existed, and some of them arose to my own observation.
The ruins of Arsinoe may yet be recognized in a mount of rubbish
in the neighbourhood of Suez. The spot is now called _Kolsûm_, and
remains exist of a stone pipe for conveying water thither from Bîr
Naba. A rock, on the African side of the gulf, furnishes _petroleum_,
which is brought to Suez, and esteemed a cure for bruises, &c. In
crossing the gulf just before Suez, boats are used at high water,
which comes in rapidly to the height of four feet; at other times
camels, horses, and men ford it with safety.
At Suez I observed in the shallow parts of the adjacent sea, a
species of weed, which in the sunshine appeared to be red coral,
being of a hue between scarlet and crimson, and of a spungy feel and
quality. I know not if any use be made of it, nor am I acquainted
with its Arabic name; but it strikes me, that, if found in great
quantities at any former period, it may have given the recent name
to this sea; for this was the Arabian gulf of the Antients, whose
_Mare Erythræum_, or Red Sea, was the Indian Ocean. This weed may
perhaps be the סוּפ suph of the Hebrews, whence ים סוּפ _Yam Suph_,
their name for this sea.
The shores here abound in beautiful shells of various kinds; a
circumstance which might also have been remarked in speaking of
Maadié near Abukîr.
On the 8th of March 1793, passed the ford at Suez, and on the 14th
arrived at Tûr. So many journies to Mount Sinai have been published,
that I shall not dwell much on the particulars. The route from Suez
to Tûr at first lies along a barren coast, but afterwards some
pleasant vales of verdure are found, particularly _Wadi Corondel_,
where grow some date trees and shrubs. Mountains of red granite are
seen, perhaps too interspersed with porphyry.
A spot is pointed out by the Greek priests of a small convent near
Tûr, where a church is said to have been buried, and miraculous
noises still heard, but on visiting it, in the mere expectation of
some natural phenomenon, found nothing.
On the 18th left Tûr, and on the 22d, at 3½ hours A.M. reached the
monastery of Sinai. Shot a red-legged partridge. The convent is large,
with a good garden, to which there is a subterraneous passage. Within
the walls is a small mosque for the convenience of the Arabs. The
mountain now called Sinai is high and abrupt. On the North side of
it some snow was visible. The whole is a very remarkable rock of red
granite, interspersed with spots, to which soil has been brought by
human toil, or washed down by rain, and in which grow almond trees,
(now in bloom,) figs, and vines. Numerous rills of excellent water
gush from various apertures in the precipice, and wander among the
little gardens. Sinai has two summits somewhat resembling Parnassus,
another scene of inspiration; and the one termed St. Catherine,
being, it is believed, the highest, may be the Sinai of Moses.
The weather being very clear, I observed, from Mount Sinai, the
Eastern gulph of the Red Sea, which appears very small, and more
round and short than is laid down in the latest maps.
Returned to Suez and Kahira, meeting with nothing memorable on
the route.
[Illustration: MAP_ of the route of the _SOUDAN CARAVAN_, from
ASSIUT to DARFÛR,
_Including some of the routes of the Jelabs, or Slave Merchants,
from the latter to the adjacent Countries._
To Accompany Travels in AFRICA &c. from the Year 1792 to 1798.
_by W. G. Browne._
_to face page 180._
_London, Published by Messrs. Cadell and Davies Strand 4 June 1799._]
CHAP. XV.
JOURNEY TO DAR-FÛR,
A KINGDOM IN THE INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
_Design to penetrate into the interior of Africa — Difficulties —
Caravan from Soudan or Dar-Fûr — Preparations — Departure from
Assiût — Journey to El-wah — Mountains — Desert — Charjé in
El-wah — Bulak — Beirîs — Mughes — Desert of Sheb — Desert
of Selimé — Leghéa — Natrôn spring — Difficulties — Enter
the kingdom of Fûr — Sweini — Detention — Representations to
the Melek — Residence — New difficulties — Villany of agent
— Sultan’s letter — Enmity of the people against Franks —
El Fasher — Illness — Conversations with the Melek Misellim —
Relapse — Robbery — Cobbé — Manners — Return to El Fasher
— The Melek Ibrahim — Amusements — Incidents — Audience of
the Sultan Abd-el-rachman-el-rashîd — His personal character —
Ceremonies of the Court._
My views to the South of Egypt having been frustrated during
the last year, I was reduced to the alternative of abandoning any
further projects in that quarter, or of waiting for a more seasonable
opportunity. As it was reported that such an one would soon offer, I
did not hesitate to prefer the latter, though strongly dissuaded from
it, as generally happens to those whose designs are any way analogous
to mine. The Europeans in this quarter, as well as the natives,
being immersed in commerce from their early years, are unable to
conceive the advantages promised by voyages of discovery, to which
no immediate profit is attached; and accordingly as they know the
hazard great, and imagine the atchievement frivolous and useless,
even from the best motives they are rather inclined to discourage,
than to animate, any one who undertakes them.
From conviction sufficiently clear, arising both from reading and
the sentiments of those who were best informed on the subject,
that the river whose source Mr. Bruce describes is not the true
Nile, I thought it an object of still greater importance, that the
source of the more Western river should be investigated. But what
might have been a matter of choice, was with me only the result
of necessity. The idea of reaching the sources of this river,
(the Bahr-el-abiad,) laid down in the maps apparently at about two
hundred leagues farther South than Sennaar, seemed to me so hopeless,
that this object alone would hardly have induced me to undertake such
a voyage. I should rather have been inclined to attempt Abyssinia,
and endeavour to certify, as well as circumstances might permit,
how far authentic former narratives had been, and what might offer
that was new to European observation. For this purpose the obvious
and most easy route was by the Red Sea to Masouah. But all accounts
concurred in magnifying the difficulty, and almost impossibility,
of an European passing there undiscovered; and, being discovered,
of his penetrating any farther.
The road from Kahira to Sennaar was the one I should have preferred;
but the desolation and anarchy then prevailing in Nubia, which had
prevented me from passing the former year, would not probably have
allowed me better success in this. Besides, the city of Sennaar
was then occupied by the slaves of the last _Mecque_, or king,
who had deposed and put to death their master, and still continued
to usurp the government. By taking the route of Dar-Fûr, I was
taught to believe that I might hope for the advantages of a regular
government; and with proper management might expect every favour
from the monarch. The local inconvenience of being so much farther
removed from Abyssinia was indeed obvious; but on the other hand the
choice of more than one route was, it seemed likely, thereby offered;
which, in a place where progress is so uncertain, and contingencies
so numerous, would be a matter of no inconsiderable importance.
At the moment of my return from Assûan to Assiût, the caravan of
jelabs from Dar-Fûr, called _Cafflet-es-Soudân_[32], the Soudân
caravan, arrived at El-wah. It was then reported that the sale of
their merchandize and slaves, of which they had no great quantity,
would be completed in about two months, and that then they would
return home. Their stay, however, was protracted during the whole
of that winter; and in the month of March 1793 they commenced
their departure from Kahira for the Upper Egypt. They were slow in
collecting all that was necessary for the journey, and I made use
of the time so allowed to draw information from various quarters
concerning what was requisite for the voyage. From what cause I
know not, but at that time the persons of whom I made enquiry gave
no intimation that the treatment of Christians in their country
was marked by any asperity. The late Sultan of Fûr, indeed,
as I afterwards learned, had been remarkable for his mildness and
liberality to all descriptions of persons. But this was not all—a
native of Soudân is, in Kahira, the most obsequious and servile of
the human race. He behaves towards a Christian whom he meets there
nearly as to one of the true believers. In his own country he repays
with interest the contempt that has been shewn him by the Egyptians.
On the 21st April 1793, I set out from Bulak, having embarked on the
Nile; and on the eighth day, the wind having been often unfavourable,
arrived at Assiût. The first care was to provide camels for the
route, and these were unfortunately at that time scarce. Five however
I at length obtained, at about 13l. sterling each. We had also made
our provision of food, &c. required for the journey; and the caravan
having at length assembled, after about fifty days the expected
moment of departure arrived. It was the hottest season of the year,
and consequently unfavourable to travelling. These merchants however,
disposed as they are to indolence, and governed by present sensations,
when their profit is concerned, esteem the variations of climate
unworthy of a thought: and long habit has familiarized them with such
degrees of heat, that what is insupportable to northern nations is
with them no serious motive for the remission of labour.
The route taken by the Soudân caravan is in part the same as that
traversed by Poncet, in the beginning of the present century, on his
way to Abyssinia. He passed by Sheb and Selimé, and thence striking
across the desart South-east, crossed the Nile at Moscho. We continued
our march from Selimé, almost due South, or with a small variation
to the West. Our party having left Assiût on the 25th May, encamped
on the mountain above it till the 28th, when it proceeded by short
stages towards El-wah. The jelabs commonly pay the Muggrebines for
their protection, or rather for forbearing to plunder them, at the
rate of about a patacke for each camel. I refused them this tribute,
alleging that I was not of the number of merchants who usually trade
to Soudân, but a stranger who was employed on business to the Sultan;
and though my refusal occasioned a slight dispute, the Arabs thought
proper to relinquish their claim. The camels were heavily laden, and
the jelabs travelled slowly, and in detached parties, each consulting
his own convenience, till the 31st of the same month, when we came to
Gebel Rumlie, an high rocky mountain, which we were to descend. It
forms the Western side of the ridge, which constitutes, as it were,
the wall of Egypt, and the Eastern boundary of the low desert, in
which lie the _Oases_. It consists of a coarse _tufa_, and is of
rugged and difficult descent. The road seems in many places to have
been opened by art. We were a full hour in reaching the bottom. The
camels not without great pain carrying their loads on the steep
declivity, and being often in danger of falling.
From the summit of this rock the view lost itself in an extensive
valley, consisting chiefly of rocks and sand, but diversified by
small bushes of the date tree, and other marks of vegetation, near
the spring where we designed to repose. Nothing could exceed the
sterility of the mountain we had passed. Having reached the plain,
it became necessary to unload the camels, and allow them some rest. We
were employed four hours and a half, the following morning, in passing
from the foot of the mountain to Ainé Dizé, the first place where
water is found, and the Northern extremity of the great Oasis. An
hot wind blowing during the meridian hours, the thermometer here
stood during that time under the shade of the tent at 116 degrees.
In marching from Ainé Dizé to Charjé, eight hours were employed.
Excepting a small space near the spring, all is waste. The Chabir, or
leader, chose to notify his approach to the town by beating drums, (two
of which he had borne before him as marks of his office, and as occasion
might require, to collect the travellers when dispersed,) and by other
tokens of joy, as firing small arms, shouting, &c. One of my camels, in
descending the mountain, had fallen and injured his right shoulder,
which, as a cure could not suddenly have place, obliged me to change
him for another.
There is a _Gindi_ or officer at Charjé, and another at Beirîs,
both belonging to Ibrahim-bey-el-kebir, to whom those villages
appertain; and to them is entrusted the management of what relates
to the caravan during the time of its stay there. We left Charjé
on Friday the 7th of June, and having passed another desert space,
after six hours reached another village, called Bulak. This is a
wretchedly poor place, the houses being only small square pieces of
ground inclosed with a wall of clay, or unburned bricks, and generally
without a roof. It furnishes good water, and the people live by the
sale of their dates. The caravan remained a day at Bulak, and having
left it on Sunday the 9th, arrived at Beirîs on Monday the 10th,
after nearly fourteen hours march through a barren tract. Here the
Chabir thought proper to go through the same ceremony as at Charjé.
On the 13th we employed two hours in passing from Beirîs to Mughess,
the last village of the Oasis toward the Southern desert. We left
Mughess on the morning of the 15th, and on Thursday the 20th,
in the morning, arrived at Sheb. At this place, by digging to the
depth of a few feet in the sand, is found a supply of indifferent
water. A tribe of the wandering Arabs, called _Ababde_, who come
from the neighbourhood of the Nile, sometimes infests it. Sheb
is marked by the production of a great quantity of native alum,
as the name imports. The surface, near which the alum is found,
abounds with a reddish stone; and in many places is seen argillaceous
earth. Having left Sheb on the 21st, we arrived at Selimé on the
23d. This is a small verdant spot, at the foot of a ridge of rocks of
no great height, nor apparently extending very far. It affords the
best water of any place on the route; but though there be verdure
enough to relieve the eye from the dry sterility of the surrounding
surface, it affords no vegetable fit for the support either of man
or beast. At Selime is a small building, which has apparently been
raised by some of the tribes resting there, that place being much
frequented by the roving parties passing the desert in different
directions. The building consists only of loose stones, but the
jelabs related many fables concerning it; as that it had of old
been inhabited by a princess who, like the Amazons, drew the bow,
and wielded the battle-axe, with her own hand; that she was attended
by a large number of followers, who spread terror all over Nubia,
&c.; and that her name was Selimé[33].
On the 24th we rested, and having proceeded the following morning,
employed five days more in reaching Leghea. Water there is scarce,
and far inferior in quality to that of Selimé, having a brackish
taste. The camels throughout the caravan began now to be excessively
weak and jaded, and the Chabir was at a loss for the true road:
for though several persons in the caravan had traversed this desert
ten or twelve times, they were not unfrequently unable to determine
which was the right course. One of the party was sent forward to
discover some known object that might be our guide, and after having
been absent thirty-six hours he returned. While we remained here we
felt much inconvenience from a suffocating wind that blew from the
South, and raised the sand in clouds. On the 2d of July the caravan
left Leghea; and on the eighth, after a severe and fatiguing march,
reached the Bir-el-Malha or salt spring. The vicinity of this spring
is remarkable for the production of _natron_, which substance appears
under different circumstances, and is of different quality from that
of Terané. It is very white and solid; and on immersion in water
becomes hot, and discharges a great portion of its air.
Small quantities of it are carried by the jelabs to Egypt, where it
is sold at a high price, and is used principally in making snuff. The
water found at this place is very unpalatable, being brackish.
A troop of the natives of Zeghawa met us at this well. It is their
practice to station a small party there, when caravans are expected,
who remunerate themselves for the fatigue of a ten days journey by
supplying provisions, and what else may be wanted by travellers,
at an exorbitant rate. Many of our companions at this time had
great need of their assistance, as their supply had been originally
insufficient, and many camels had perished on the road. The vicinity
of the Bir-el-Malha is occasionally infested by the Cubba-Beesh,
a wandering tribe, who, mounted on the swiftest dromedaries, rapidly
traverse the desert, and live by plundering the defenceless. As they
are, however, unfurnished with fire-arms, so numerous a body as ours
was not in much danger from their attack.
We remained at the Bir-el-Malha till the 12th; on which day we left
that place, and travelled with little interruption till the 20th,
and then encamped at a spot called Medwa, where however is no supply
of water. One of my camels having fallen, we were obliged to purchase
water of the _Mahréa_ Arabs[34] whom we met, or to take up what had
lodged in cavities on the earth, in consequence of the rains which
were then beginning to fall.
On the 23d we came to the first springs within the limits of Fûr,
which are in this place called Wadi Masrûk. The white ant, _Termis_,
was here exceedingly vexatious, building his covered way to every
thing within the tent, and destroying all within his reach. This
together with the rains, which were now increasing, and began to pour
in a torrent through the valley, obliged us to abandon the tents,
and take shelter in the next village, (Sweini,) where I obtained
an apartment in the house of Ali-el-Chatîb, one of the principal
merchants established in the country. In it I passed eight or ten
days, not having arrived at Cobbé, one of the towns whither the
jelabs chiefly resort, till the seventh of August.
At Sweini resides generally a Melek or governor on the part of the
Sultan of Dar-Fûr; and there all strangers, as well as merchants
of the country, coming with the caravan, are obliged to wait, till
the pleasure of the monarch in disposing of them be known.
Coming as I did under considerable exceptions from the general rule
of merchants trading to that country, and, in the Arabic language,
rather as _Daif-es-Sultan_, the king’s stranger, in which light
the people of the country had hitherto viewed me, I expected to
obtain, without delay, permission to continue my journey to the
royal residence. I observed to the Melek of Sweini and other public
officers, in one among many conversations I had with them, that
“intending to visit the Sultan, I should hardly have expected to be
put back with frivolous excuses, as the nonpayment of duties which
you dare not explicitly demand of me, and tributes under the name
of presents, which have never yet been exacted of a stranger. If
any duties be payable, beyond what have already been discharged,
you are perfectly at liberty to detain all, or such part, of the
articles I bring with me, as you judge sufficient to answer your
claim; but not to refuse me permission to go to the Sultan, with
whom I have business. Or if other reasons operate to prevent my
request being complied with, and any suspicions prevail relative
to my views in coming here, I desire, without further delay, to be
furnished with the means of returning to Egypt, before I suffer,
as commonly happens to strangers, from the effects of the climate,
while I am yet in the habit of travelling, and while the funds are
yet unexhausted which should support me in my progress farther.”
The misrepresentations which had been made concerning me, and which
had by this time reached the Sultan, manacled the hands of the Melek,
and prevented my remonstrance from having any effect. But candour
and ingenuousness have no part in the character of slaves; and the
antient observation is most just, that “when a man becomes a slave
he loses half his virtue.” I therefore remained in perfect ignorance
of the reasons of my detention. Perhaps indeed, without implicating
himself, the Melek could not have declared them; or perhaps he was
not thoroughly informed as to their nature. The plot that had been
laid against me might indeed have deceived much abler heads than
theirs, on whose caprices my fate depended.
Finding no mode of advancing, till the rest of the caravan had
obtained the same permission, I resolved to follow the example of
the other jelabs, and wait patiently the event. The house I was
in consisted of a multitude of distinct apartments, built with
clay, and covered with a slanting thatched roof, but not closed
by doors. The hospitality of the owner allowed all who could find
place in it to lodge themselves without distinction. At length, after
the expiration of about ten days, an order from the Sultan arrived,
directing that all the jelabs should be allowed to proceed to their
houses on paying the duties assessed on them.
The circumstances attending myself were peculiar; and many of the
disadvantages I had to contend with could not be well foreseen:
it is therefore necessary to mark them, that if any occasion should
offer they may be serviceable to others, and for this reason they
shall be detailed at considerable length.