AT SEA.
But the period granted for such indulgence was not of long duration,
for on the following morning the Tonnant, Ramilies, and two brigs stood
to sea; and on the 26th the rest of the fleet got under weigh and
followed the Admiral. It is impossible to conceive a finer sea-view
than this general stir presented. Our fleet amounted now to upwards of
fifty sail, many of them vessels of war, which shaking loose their
topsails, and lifting their anchors at the same moment, gave to Negril
Bay an appearance of bustle such as it has seldom been able to present.
In half an hour all the canvas was set, and the ships moved slowly and
proudly from their anchorage, till, having cleared the headlands, and
caught the fair breeze which blew without, they bounded over the water
with the speed of eagles, and long before dark the coast of Jamaica had
disappeared.
There is something in rapidity of motion, whether it be along a high
road or across the deep, extremely elevating; nor was its effect
unperceived on the present occasion. It is true that there were other
causes for the high spirits which now pervaded the armament, but I
question if any proved more efficient in their production than the
astonishing rate of our sailing. Whether the business we were about to
undertake would prove bloody or the reverse entered not into the
calculations of a single individual in the fleet. The sole subject of
remark was the speed with which we got over the ground, and the
probability that existed of our soon reaching the point of debarkation.
The change of climate, likewise, was not without its effect in
producing pleasurable sensations. The farther we got from Jamaica, the
more cool and agreeable became the atmosphere; from which circumstance
we were led to hope that, in spite of its southern latitude, New
Orleans would not be found so oppressively hot as we had been taught to
expect.
The breeze continuing without interruption, on the 29th we came in
sight of the island of Grand Cayman. It is a small speck in the middle
of the sea, lying so near the level of the water as to be unobservable
at any considerable distance. Though we passed along with prodigious
velocity, a canoe nevertheless ventured off from the shore, and making
its way through waves which looked as if they would swallow it up,
succeeded in reaching our vessel. It contained a white man and two
negroes, who brought off a quantity of fine turtle, which they gave us
in exchange for salt pork; and so great was the value put upon salt
provisions, that they bartered a pound and a half of the one for a
pound of the other. To us the exchange was very acceptable, and thus
both parties remained satisfied with their bargain.
Having lain-to till our turtle-merchants left us, we again filled and
stood our course. The land of Cayman was soon invisible; nor was any
other perceived till the 2nd of December, when the western shores of
Cuba presented themselves. Towards them we now directed the ship’s
head, and reaching in within a few miles of the beach, coasted along
till we had doubled the promontory, which forms one of the jaws of the
Mexican Gulf. Whilst keeping thus close to the shore, our sail was more
interesting than usual, for though this side of Cuba be low, it is
nevertheless picturesque, from the abundance of wood with which it is
ornamented. There are likewise several points where huge rocks rise
perpendicularly out of the water, presenting the appearance of old
baronial castles, with their battlements and lofty turrets; and it will
easily be believed that none of these escaped our observation. The few
books which we had brought to sea were all read, many of them twice and
three times through; and there now remained nothing to amuse except
what the variety of the voyage could produce.
But the shores of Cuba were quickly passed, and the old prospect of sea
and sky again met the gaze. There was, however, one circumstance from
which we experienced a considerable diminution of comfort. As soon as
we entered the gulf, a short disagreeable swell was perceptible;
differing in some respects from that in the Bay of Biscay, but to my
mind infinitely more unpleasant. So great was the motion, indeed, that
all walking was prevented; but as we felt ourselves drawing every hour
nearer and nearer to the conclusion of our miseries, this additional
one was borne without much repining. Besides, we found some amusement
in watching, from the cabin windows, the quantity and variety of weed
with which the surface of the gulf is covered. The current being here
extremely rapid, the weed sails continually in the same direction; that
is to say, it goes round by the opposite side of Cuba towards the banks
of Newfoundland, and is carried sometimes as far as Bermuda, and even
to the Western Isles.
It is not, however, my intention to continue the detail of this voyage
longer than may be interesting; I shall therefore merely state that,
the wind and weather having undergone some variations, it was the 10th
of December before the shores of America could be discerned. On that
day we found ourselves opposite to the Chandeleur Islands, and near the
entrance of Lake Borgne. There the fleet anchored, that the troops
might be removed from the heavy ships into such as drew least water;
and from this and other preparations it appeared that to ascend this
lake was the plan determined upon.
NEW ORLEANS.
But before I pursue my narrative further, it will be well if I
endeavour to give some account of the situation of New Orleans, and of
the nature of the country against which our operations were directed.
New Orleans is a town of some note, containing from twenty to thirty
thousand inhabitants. It stands upon the eastern bank of the
Mississippi, in 30 degrees north latitude, and about 110 miles from the
Gulf of Mexico. Though in itself unfortified, it is difficult to
conceive a place capable of presenting greater obstacles to an invader;
and at the same time more conveniently situated with respect to trade.
Built upon a narrow neck of land, which is confined on one side by the
river, and on the other by impassable morasses, its means of defence
require little explanation; and as these morasses extend to the
distance of only a few miles, and are succeeded by Lake Pontchartrain,
which again communicates through Lake Borgne[2] with the sea, its
peculiar commercial advantages must be equally apparent. It is by means
of the former of these lakes, indeed, that intercourse is maintained
between the city and the northern parts of West Florida, of which it is
the capital; a narrow creek, called in the language of the country a
bayo or bayouke, navigable for vessels drawing less than six feet
water, running up through the marsh, and ending within two miles of the
town. The name of this creek is the Bayouke of St. John, and its
entrance is defended by works of considerable strength.
[2] These are, properly speaking, one and the same lake. From the
entrance, however, as far as Ship Island, is called by the inhabitants
Lake Borgne, whilst all above that point goes under the name of Lake
Pontchartrain. They are both extremely shallow, varying from 12 to 6
feet in depth.
But to exhibit its advantages in a more distinct point of view, it will
be necessary to say a few words respecting that mighty river upon which
it stands. The Mississippi (a corruption of the word Mechasippi,
signifying, in the language of the natives, “the father of rivers”) is
allowed to be inferior, in point of size and general navigability, to
few streams in the world. According to the Sioux Indians it takes its
rise from a large swamp, and is increased by many rivers emptying
themselves into its course as far as the Fall of St. Anthony, which, by
their account, is upwards of 700 leagues from its source. But this
fall, which is formed by a rock thrown across the channel, of about
twelve feet perpendicular height, is known to be 800 leagues from the
sea; and therefore the whole course of the Mississippi, from its spring
to its mouth, may be computed at little short of 5000 miles.
Below the fall of St. Anthony, again, the Mississippi is joined by a
number of rivers, considerable in point of size, and leading out of
almost every part of the continent of America. These are the St.
Pierre, which comes from the west; St. Croix, from the east; the
Moingona, which is said to run 150 leagues from the west, and forms a
junction about 250 below the fall; and the Illinois, which rises near
the lake Michigan, 200 leagues east of the Mississippi.
But by far the most important of these auxiliary streams is the
Missouri, the source of which is as little known as that of the Father
of Rivers himself. It has been followed by traders upwards of 400
leagues, who traffic with the tribes which dwell upon its banks, and
obtain an immense return for European goods. The mouth of this river is
five leagues below that of the Illinois, and is supposed to be 800 from
its source, which, judging from the flow of its waters, lies in a
north-west direction from the Mississippi. It is remarkable enough that
the waters of this river are black and muddy, and prevail over those of
the Mississippi, which running with a clear and gentle stream till it
meets with this addition, becomes from that time both dark and rapid.
The next river of note is the Ohio, which taking its rise near Lake
Erie, runs from the north-east to the south-west, and joins the
Mississippi about 70 leagues below the Missouri. Besides this there are
the St. Francis, an inconsiderable stream, and the Arkansas, which is
said to originate in the same latitude with Santa Fe in New Mexico, and
which, holding its course nearly 300 leagues, falls in about 200 above
New Orleans. Sixty leagues below the Arkansas, comes the Yazous from
the northeast; and about 58 nearer to the city is the Rouge, so called
from the colour of its waters, which are of a reddish dye, and tinge
those of the Mississippi at the time of the floods. Its source is in
New Mexico, and after running about 200 leagues it is joined by the
Noir 30 miles above the place where it empties itself into the
Mississippi.
Of all these rivers there is none which will not answer the purposes of
commerce, at least to a very considerable extent; and as they join the
Mississippi above New Orleans, it is evident that this city may be
considered as the general mart of the whole. Whatever nation,
therefore, chances to possess this place, possesses in reality the
command of a greater extent of country than is included within the
boundary-line of the whole United States since from every direction are
goods, the produce of East, West, North, and South America, sent down
by the Mississippi to the Gulf. But were New Orleans properly supplied
with fortifications, it is evident that no vessels could pass without
the leave of its governor; and therefore is it that I consider that
city as of greater importance to the American government than any other
within the compass of their territories.
Having said so much on its commercial advantages, let me now point out
more distinctly than I have yet done the causes which contribute to its
safety from all hostile attempts. The first of these is the shallowness
of the river at its mouth, and the extreme rapidity of the current.
After flowing on in one prodigious sheet of water, varying in depth
from one hundred to thirty fathoms, the Mississippi, previous to its
joining the Mexican Gulf, divides into four or five mouths, the most
considerable of which is encumbered by a sandbank continually liable to
shift. Over this bank no vessel drawing above seventeen feet water can
pass; when once across, however, there is no longer a difficulty in
being floated; but to anchor is hazardous, on account of the huge logs
which are constantly carried down the stream. Should one of these
strike the bow of the ship, it would probably dash her to pieces;
whilst, independent of this, there is always danger of drifting or
losing anchors, owing to the number of sunken logs which the
under-current bears along within a few feet of the bottom. All vessels
ascending the river are accordingly obliged, if the wind be foul, to
make fast to the trees upon the banks; because without a breeze at once
fair and powerful, it is impossible to stem the torrent.
But besides this natural obstacle to invasion, the mouth of the river
is defended by a fort, which from its situation may be pronounced
impregnable. It is built upon an artificial causeway, and is surrounded
on all sides by swamps totally impervious, which extend on both sides
of the river to a place called the Detour des Anglais, within twenty
miles of the city. Here two other forts are erected, one on each bank.
Like that at the river’s mouth, these are surrounded by a marsh, a
single narrow path conducting from the commencement of firm ground to
the gates of each. If, therefore, an enemy should contrive to pass both
the bar and the first fort, he must here be stopped, because all
landing is prevented by the nature of the soil; and however fair his
breeze may have hitherto been, it will not now assist his further
progress. At this point the Mississippi winds almost in a circle,
insomuch that vessels which arrive are necessitated to make fast till a
change of wind occur.
From the Detour des Anglais towards New Orleans the face of the country
undergoes an alteration. The swamp does not indeed end, but it narrows
off to the right, leaving a space of firm ground, varying, from three
to one mile in, width, between it and the river. At the back of this
swamp, again, which may be about six or eight miles across, come up the
waters of Lake Pontchartrain, and thus a neck of arable land is formed,
stretching for some way above the city. The whole of these morasses are
covered as far as the Detour with tall reeds; a little wood now
succeeds, skirting the open country, but the wood measures no more than
one mile in depth, when it again gives place to reeds. Such is the
aspect of that side of the river upon which the city is built; with
respect to the other I can speak with less confidence, having seen it
but cursorily. It appears, however, to resemble this in almost every
particular, except that it is more wooded and less confined with marsh.
Both sides are flat, containing no broken ground, nor any other cover,
for military movements; for on the open shore there are no trees,
except a few in the gardens of those houses which skirt the rivers; the
whole being laid out in large fields of sugar-cane; separated from one
another by rails and ditches.
From the preceding brief account of the country, the advantages
possessed by a defending army must; be apparent. To approach by the
river is out of the question, and therefore an enemy can land only from
the lake. But this can be done nowhere, except where creeks or bayos
offer convenience for that purpose, because the banks of the lake are
universally swampy; and can hardly supply footing for infantry, far
less for the transportation of artillery. Of these, however, there are
not above one or two which could be so used. The Bayo of St. John is
one; but it is too well defended, and too carefully guarded for any
attempts; and the Bayo of Catiline is another, about ten miles below
the city. That this last might be found useful in an attack, was proved
by the landing affected by our army at that point; but what is the
consequence? The invaders arrive upon a piece of ground, where the most
consummate generalship will be of little avail. If the defenders can
but retard their progress—which, by crowding the Mississippi with armed
vessels, may very easily be done, the labour of a few days will cover
the narrow neck with entrenchments; whilst the opposite bank remaining
in their hands, can at all times gall their enemy with a close and
deadly cannonade. Of wood, as I have already said, or broken ground
which might conceal an advance, there exists not a particle. Every
movement of the assailants must, therefore, be made under their eyes;
and as one flank of their army will be defended by a morass, and the
other by the river, they may bid defiance to all attempts at turning.
Such are the advantages of New Orleans; and now it is only fair that I
should state its disadvantages: these are owing solely the climate.
From the swamps with which it is surrounded, there arise, during the
summer months, exhalations extremely fatal to the health of its
inhabitants. For some months of the year, indeed, so deadly are the
effects of the atmosphere, that the garrison is withdrawn, and most of
the families retire from their houses to more genial spots, leaving the
town as much deserted as if it had been visited by a pestilence. Yet,
in spite of these cautions, agues and intermittent fevers abound here
at all times. Nor is it wonderful that the case should be so; for
independent of the vile air which the vicinity of so many putrid swamps
occasions, this country is more liable than perhaps any other to sudden
and severe changes of temperature. A night of keen frost sufficiently
powerful to produce ice a quarter of an inch in thickness, frequently
follows a day of intense heat; whilst heavy rains and bright sunshine
often succeed each other several times in the course of a few hours.
But these changes, as may supposed, occur only during the winter; the
summer being one continued series of intolerable heat and deadly fog.
LAKE BORGNE.
Of all these circumstances the conductors of the present expedition
were not ignorant. To reduce the forts which command the navigation of
the river was regarded as a task too difficult to be attempted; and for
any ships to pass without their reduction seemed impossible. Trusting,
therefore, that the object of the enterprise was unknown to the
Americans, Sir Alexander Cochrane and General Keane determined to
effect a landing somewhere on the banks of the lake; and pushing
directly on, to take possession of the town, before any effectual
preparation could be made for its defence. With this view the troops
were removed from the larger into the lighter vessels, and these, under
convoy of such gun-brigs as the shallowness of the water would float,
began on the 13th to enter Lake Borgne. But we had not proceeded far,
when it was apparent that the Americans were well acquainted with our
intentions, and ready to receive us. Five large cutters, armed with six
heavy guns each, were seen at anchor in the distances: and as all
endeavours to land, till these were captured, would have been useless,
the transports and largest of the gun-brigs cast anchor, whilst the
smaller craft gave chase to the enemy.
But these cutters were built purposely to act upon the lake. They
accordingly set sail as soon as the English cruisers arrived within a
certain distance, and running on, were quickly out of sight, leaving
the pursuers fast aground. To permit them to remain in the hands of the
enemy, however, would be fatal, because, as long as they commanded the
navigation of the lake, no boats could venture to cross. It was
therefore determined at all hazards, and at any expense, to take them;
and since our lightest craft could not float where they sailed, a
flotilla of launches and ships’ barges was got ready for the purpose.
This flotilla consisted of fifty open boats; most of them armed with a
carronade in the bow, and well manned with volunteers from the
different ships of war. The command was given to Captain Lockier, a
brave and skilful officer, who immediately pushed off; and about noon
came in sight of the enemy, moored fore and aft, with broadsides
pointing towards him. Having pulled a considerable distance, he
resolved to refresh his men before he hurried them into action; and,
accordingly, letting fall grapplings just beyond the reach of the
enemy’s guns, the crews of the different boats coolly ate their dinner.
As soon as that meal was finished, and an hour spent in resting, the
boats again got ready to advance. But, unfortunately, a light breeze
which had hitherto favoured them, now ceased to blow, and they were in
consequence compelled to make way only with the oar. The tide also ran
strong against them, at once increasing their labour and retarding
their progress; but all these difficulties appeared trifling to British
sailors; and, giving a hearty cheer, they moved steadily onward in one
extended line.
It was not long before the enemy’s guns opened upon them, and a
tremendous shower of balls saluted their approach. Some boats were
sunk, others disabled, and many men were killed and wounded; but the
rest pulling with all their might, and occasionally returning the
discharges from their carronades, succeeded, after an hour’s labour, in
closing with the Americans. The marines now began a deadly fire of
musketry; whilst the seamen, sword in hand, sprang up the vessels’
sides in spite of all opposition; and sabring every man that stood in
their way, hauled down the American ensign, and hoisted the British
flag in its place.
One cutter alone, which bore the commodore’s broad pendant, was not so
easily subdued. Having noted its pre-eminence, Captain Lockier directed
his own boat against it; and happening to have placed himself in one of
the lightest and fastest sailing barges in the flotilla, he found
himself alongside of his enemy before any of the others were near
enough to render him the smallest support. But nothing dismayed by odds
so fearful, the gallant crew of this small bark, following their
leader, instantly leaped on board the American. A desperate conflict
ensued, in which Captain Lockier received several severe wounds; but
after fighting from the bow to the stern, the enemy were at length
overpowered; and other barges coming up to the assistance of their
commander, the commodore’s flag shared the same fate with the others.
PINE ISLAND.
Having destroyed all opposition in this quarter, the fleet again
weighed anchor, and stood up the lake. But we had not been many hours
under sail, when ship after ship ran aground: such as still floated
were, therefore, crowded with the troops from those which could go no
farther, till finally the lightest vessel stuck fast; and the boats
were of necessity hoisted out, to carry us a distance of upwards of
thirty miles. To be confined for so long a time as the prosecution of
this voyage would require, in one posture, was of itself no very
agreeable prospect; but the confinement was but a trifling misery when
compared with that which arose from the change in the weather. Instead
of a constant bracing frost, heavy rains, such as an inhabitant of
England cannot dream of, and against which no cloak could furnish
protection, began. In the midst of these were the troops embarked in
their new and straitened transports, and each division, after an
exposure of ten hours, landed upon a small desert spot of earth, called
Pine Island, where it was determined to collect the whole army,
previous to its crossing over to the main.
Than this spot it is scarcely possible to imagine any place more
completely wretched. It was a swamp, containing a small space of firm
ground at one end, and almost wholly unadorned with trees of any sort
or description. There were, indeed, a few stinted [sic] firs upon the
very edge of the water, but these were so diminutive in size as hardly
to deserve a higher classification than among the meanest of shrubs.
The interior was the resort of wild ducks and other water-fowl; and the
pools and creeks with which it was intercepted abounded in dormant
alligators.
Upon this miserable desert the army was assembled, without tents or
huts, or any covering to shelter them from the inclemency of the
weather; and in truth we may fairly affirm that our hardships had here
their commencement. After having been exposed all day to a cold and
pelting rain, we landed upon a barren island, incapable of furnishing
even fuel enough to supply our fires. To add to our miseries, as night
closed, the rain generally ceased, and severe frosts set in, which,
congealing our wet clothes upon our bodies, left little animal warmth
to keep the limbs in a state of activity; and the consequence was, that
many of the wretched negroes, to whom frost and cold were altogether
new, fell fast asleep, and perished before morning.
For provisions, again, we were entirely dependent upon the fleet. There
were here no living creatures which would suffer themselves to be
caught; even the water-fowl being so timorous that it was impossible to
approach them within musket-shot. Salt meat and ship biscuit were,
therefore, our food, moistened by a small allowance of rum; fare which,
though no doubt very wholesome, was not such as to reconcile us to the
cold and wet under which we suffered.
On the part of the navy, again, all these hardships were experienced in
a four-fold degree. Night and day were boats pulling from the fleet to
the island, and from the island to the fleet; for it was the 21st
before all the troops were got on shore; and as there was little time
to inquire into men’s turns of labour, many seamen were four or five
days continually at the oar. Thus they had not only to bear up against
variety of temperature, but against hunger, fatigue, and want of sleep
in addition; three as fearful burdens as can be laid upon the human
frame. Yet in spite of all this, not a murmur nor a whisper of
complaint could be heard throughout the whole expedition. No man
appeared to regard the present, whilst every one looked forward to the
future. From the General, down to the youngest drum-boy, a confident
anticipation of success seemed to pervade all ranks; and in the hope of
an ample reward in store for them, the toils and grievances of the
moment were forgotten. Nor was this anticipation the mere offspring of
an overweening confidence in themselves. Several Americans had already
deserted, who entertained us with accounts of the alarm experienced at
New Orleans. They assured us that there were not at present 5000
soldiers in the State; that the principal inhabitants had long ago left
the place; that such as remained were ready to join us as soon as we
should appear among them; and that, therefore, we might lay our account
with a speedy and bloodless conquest. The same persons likewise dilated
upon the wealth and importance of the town, upon the large quantities
of Government stores there collected, and the rich booty which would
reward its capture; subjects well calculated to tickle the fancy of
invaders, and to make them unmindful of immediate afflictions, in the
expectation of so great a recompense to come.