Noon was approaching when my sooty fellow-traveller directed my
attention to a neat cottage, romantically situated on the top of a low
mound, which stood alone in the middle of stupendous mountains. It
commanded one of the most exquisite prospects that fancy can represent.
A sort of glen surrounded it on every side, richly and beautifully
wooded; behind, rose some of the most lofty of the Blue Mountains; on
the right there was an opening, which admitted a fine view of Annotto
Bay; whilst in the other direction, the hills sloping gradually
upwards, presented an inclined plane, covered with fields of
sugar-cane, and ending, at a considerable distance, in one abrupt and
broken ridge.
The cottage in question was the residence of my friend, and the
resting-place whither my steps were turned; nor did I experience any
regret at finding myself so near my journey’s end. The heat had for
some time been almost intolerable, and having eaten nothing since the
night before, nature began to cry out for repose and repletion; and, in
truth, the welcome which I experienced, was of a nature to take away
all desire of wandering farther. We had not met for several years—not,
indeed, since I was a child—and in the interval, some melancholy
changes had occurred in the family of my host; but he received me with
the cordial hospitality which a warm heart produces, and forgot his
private sorrows for a time, that he might not throw a damp upon my
enjoyments.
The remainder of this day I spent, as a powerful sensation of fatigue
warned me to spend it, within doors; but on the following morning I set
out at an early hour, for the purpose of gratifying my curiosity on a
number of points which had frequently exercised it. In this excursion,
and indeed in all the excursions which I undertook during my residence
at his Pen, my friend accompanied me; and an excellent and most
intelligent guide he proved to be. We made the tour of several estates,
saw the process of making sugar, visited the sugar and coffee
plantations, and inspected several hospitals, with one of which each
estate is supplied, for the accommodation and cure of sick negroes. In
the course of these rambles, I made it my business to inquire into the
condition and treatment of the slave population; inspecting their huts,
and even examining their provisions; and I frankly confess that, though
I began my researches under the influence of as many prejudices as, on
such a subject, are wont to be entertained by Englishmen in general,
the result of the whole was to convince me that I had done glaring
injustice to the character of the Jamaica planters, as well as fostered
notions of the wretchedness of the negroes, utterly and iniquitously
erroneous. It is no business of mine, and, if it were, this is no
proper place to take part in what has of late been termed the
West-Indian controversy; but, as an eye-witness, I may venture to speak
out on one point, by affirming, that a countless proportion of the
stories with which the British public is amused, touching the barbarous
treatment of slaves by owners and overseers, are, if not absolute
fables, at all events gross exaggerations. I am aware that my residence
in the island was too brief, and my acquaintance with it too limited,
to entitle my opinions to the weight which a more protracted sojourn
might have obtained for them; but it is but justice to state, that
whilst I was there, I enjoyed opportunities of seeing the negro at all
times, and under all circumstances, such as few casual visitors can
boast of. My host was not a planter, but a medical practitioner; and
one prejudiced rather against the slave system than in favour of it:
there was therefore no disposition on his part to cast dust into my
eyes, or to present to them only the bright side of the picture. Under
his guidance, I beheld the negro at work in the fields, in the bosom of
his family, in the sick ward, and at market; and I never saw him other
than a contented and light-hearted being. No doubt there are instances
of cruelty on the part of overseers in Jamaica, exactly as there are
instances of tyranny on the part of parish officers and county
magistrates in England; but had these been as numerous, or as flagrant,
as they are represented to be, I cannot doubt but that something of the
kind must have passed under my eyes, even within the space of one week.
No such event, however, took place; and, as far as I could learn, no
such event was to be expected.
Far be it from me to stand forward as the advocate of personal bondage
in the abstract—it is a grievous evil; and wherever men are so far
civilized as to render its abolition desirable, it is an evil which
ought to be abolished. But it is an evil of long standing, authorized
in the Bible, and therefore, we may presume, not without its
counterbalancing benefits. He, therefore, who would seek, at all
hazards and under all circumstances, to dissolve the tie which binds a
master to his slave, and a slave to his master—whilst he would be doing
that which the Apostles never did, and which Christians are nowhere
commanded to do—would run no slight hazard of causing a quantity of
mischief to both parties, for which the benefits bestowed upon either
would not compensate. With respect to our own colonies, in particular,
it is manifest that the whole matter resolves itself into one
consideration. If the negroes be in such a state, as that the boon of
universal freedom would be productive to them of universal benefit, by
all means let it be bestowed at once, even though it be attended by so
much national expense, as the fair demands of the proprietors for
compensation shall impose upon us. If they be not thus situated, let
every practicable method be adopted to advance them on the scale of
civilization; but till they be advanced far beyond their present
station, let no false hopes be excited that the moment of their
liberation is at hand. Many measures for their improvement have been
adopted since the year 1814, and many more are in daily process of
adoption; but it is greatly to be apprehended that much of the benefit
which these measures promised to bring about, has been obstructed by
the indiscreet zeal of those who profess, and probably feel, the
liveliest interest in their welfare.
Besides adding to my stock of knowledge as to the cultivation of the
sugar-cane, the making of sugar, rum, &c. &c.; I had an opportunity of
seeing something of the Maroons, or free Negroes, who inhabit the
mountains. These people dwell apart from the European settlers, holding
very little intercourse with them, though a single European generally
resides in each of their villages, as a sort of chief or magistrate.
They struck me to be a lazy, indolent, and harmless race of human
beings; and they formed, in all their habits, a striking contrast with
their enslaved brethren. Whilst the latter devote their spare hours to
the culture of their own little spots, to cudgel-playing, dancing, or
other gambols, the former appear to spend their whole time in a state
between sleeping and waking, at the doors of their huts, or under the
shelter of trees. Some of the Maroon females, I observed, were really
handsome, their features being high, and their persons elegantly
formed; but in general they differed nothing from the other negroes,
from whom, indeed, they are principally descended.
I heard that the men carry on a petty trade in feathers, but that their
principal occupation, at least that from which they derive the largest
emolument, consists in apprehending, and leading back to their masters,
run-away slaves. For their services in this department, they were wont
to receive a pension from the Government; and they are still, I
believe, supplied with muskets and ammunition at the expense of the
colonial authorities. But enough of these details.
My sojourn in St. Mary’s having extended considerably beyond the limits
which prudence would have imposed upon it, I set out on the morning of
the 13th, on my return towards Kingston. The country through which I
travelled differed in many respects from that which I had crossed in my
way hither: it was in general less wild, and less mountainous; but it
possessed features of striking beauty, rich corn-fields being
interspersed amidst graceful forests, and here and there a wild
hill-side rising as a contrast to both. The most remarkable variety,
and not perhaps the least agreeable, was, however, to be found in the
absence of the Wag-water; my guide having led me in a direction by
which its tortuous course was avoided.
As it was late before I started, my ride soon became toilsome on
account of the heat, and I was fain to stop short for the night at a
place called Stoney Hill, about twelve miles from Kingston. Here I was
hospitably entertained by the officers of the 102nd regiment; and,
rising at an early hour on the following morning, I contrived to
complete my journey before breakfast. And it was well that no further
time had been expended in my progress. The ships, I found, were
preparing to put to sea; the stock was all embarked, and the crews on
board; nothing therefore remained for me but to follow the general
example, and to establish myself with as little delay as possible in my
cabin.
PORT ROYAL—NEGRIL BAY.
In spite of these preparations, the 15th and 16th of November both
passed away without any movement being made. It was, however, my custom
not to neglect any opportunities which chanced to come in my way of
viewing strange places, and obtaining an acquaintance with strange
people; neither on the present occasion did I fail to make the most of
the interval, by landing and wandering over the town of Port Royal. But
to describe minutely a place so little deserving of description, would
hardly repay me for the labour of writing, or the reader for the toil
of perusing what I write. It is sufficient to observe, that except to
him who takes delight in beholding a well-constructed military work,
there is nothing in the busy, bustling town of Port Royal which will at
all compensate for the heat and fatigue which he must undergo who, like
myself, traverses its streets and lanes at noon-day.
The long looked-for signal to weigh was hung out at last; and at an
early hour on the 17th we put to sea. Our point of destination was
Negril Bay, the appointed place of rendezvous for the whole armament;
and we reached it without the occurrence of mishap or adventure on the
evening of the 19th. We found here a large fleet already assembled; but
the horses were all landed, many officers were dwelling in tents on the
shore, and everything gave indication that some further delay might be
expected. To say the truth, I experienced no degree of satisfaction at
this prospect; for the point of the island opposite to which we now lay
was neither remarkable for its natural beauty nor very thickly
inhabited; and had the contrary been the case, I had seen as much of
Jamaica and its people as I was at all desirous to see. Besides, it was
impossible not to feel that whatever the object of our expedition might
be, it was not likely to be furthered by this tardy mode of entering
upon it; and rumours already began to spread abroad, of discoveries
incautiously and untimely made. It was, therefore, with no slight
degree of pleasure that, on the morning of the 24th, the topmasts of a
numerous squadron were seen over the eastern promontory, in full sail
towards us; and it was with still greater delight that in a short time
we were able to discern the flags of Sir Alexander Cochrane and Admiral
Malcolm floating in the breeze. By and bye the Tonnant and Royal Oak
showed their hulls in the offing; and a short while afterwards, these
ships, followed by a large fleet of troopers and transports,
majestically entered the bay. As may be imagined, our curiosity was
strongly excited to learn what reinforcements they contained, and what
intelligence they brought; insomuch, that they had scarcely dropped
anchor when they were boarded from almost every one of the ships which
they came to join.
NEGRIL BAY.
It appeared that this powerful reinforcement consisted of the following
corps:—the 93rd regiment, a fine battalion of Highlanders, mustering
nine hundred bayonets; six companies of the 95th rifle corps; two West
India regiments, each eight hundred strong; two squadrons of the 14th
Dragoons dismounted; detachments of artillery, rockets, sappers, and
engineers; recruits for the different corps already in this part of the
world; and though last, not least, Major-General Keane to take upon
himself the command of the whole. The intelligence brought was likewise
interesting, for it informed us of the point whither we were to
proceed; and it was soon known throughout the fleet, that the conquest
of New Orleans was the object in view.
But before I pursue my narrative further, having arrived, as it were,
at a second commencement, it may be well if I state in full the number
of men of which the army now consisted. In the first place, then, there
were the 4th, 44th, and 85th regiments, originally dispatched from
Bordeaux, and the 21st, which joined the expedition at Bermuda. These
battalions, being considerably reduced by past service, could not at
present muster conjunctly above two thousand two hundred men; and being
likewise deprived of the Marine battalion, which had fought beside them
in the Chesapeake, they retained no followers except the artillery,
sappers, &c. which had accompanied them from the first. The whole
amount of this corps may, therefore, be estimated at two thousand five
hundred men.
Without computing the individual strength of each detachment now
arrived, I will venture to fix the aggregate at two thousand five
hundred; and thus the whole, taken collectively, will amount to five
thousand combatants. That it might somewhat exceed or fall under this
computation, I do not deny; but neither the excess nor deficiency could
be considerable; and therefore my statement may be received as correct,
with very little allowance.
This, it must be confessed, was a formidable force, and such as, had
all its parts been trustworthy, might have done much. But on the black
corps little reliance could be placed, especially if the climate should
prove colder than was anticipated; consequently, there were not more
than three thousand four hundred men upon whom a General could fully
depend.
Together with these forces were brought out abundant stores of
ammunition, some clothing for the troops, and tents to be used when an
opportunity should offer. There were also numerous additions to the
commissariat and medical departments; in short, the materiel of the
army was increased in proportion to its increase in number.
To find himself in the chief command of the army, exceeded the
expectation, and perhaps the desire, of General Keane. Being a young
and dashing officer, he had been selected as most fit to serve under
General Ross; and having sailed from England before the death of that
gallant chief was known, he reached Madeira before his elevation was
communicated to him. Young as he was, however, his arrival produced
much satisfaction throughout the armament; for though no one
entertained a doubt as to the personal courage of Colonel Brook, it was
felt that a leader of more experience was wanted on the present
expedition.
As soon as the newly-arrived squadron had anchored, the Bay was covered
with boats, which conveyed parties of officers from ship to ship,
hastening to salute their comrades, and to inquire into the state of
things at home. Greetings and hearty embraces were interchanged between
friends thus again brought together; and a few passing ejaculations of
sorrow bestowed upon those who could not now take part in the meeting.
Many questions were put, relative to persons and places in England; in
a word, the day was spent in that species of employment, which can be
completely known only to those who have been similarly situated.