MISCELLANEOUS APPARATUS AND METHODS OF CONSTRUCTION.
APPARATUS 21.
_34. For Annealing and Hardening Steel._ (See text-book for reasons why
some parts of electrical apparatus should be made of hard steel, while
other parts should be made of soft iron.)
35. To anneal or soften spring steel so that you can bend it without
breaking it, heat it in a candle, gas, or alcohol flame until it is
red-hot; allow the steel to cool in the air slowly.
36. To harden steel, heat as before, then suddenly plunge the red-hot
piece into cold water. This will make the steel very hard and brittle.
Small pieces may be held by pinching them between two pieces of wood.
Needles and wires may be stuck in a cork, which will serve as a handle.
(See text-book.)
APPARATUS 22.
[Illustration: Fig. 11.]
_37. Alcohol Lamp._ Fig. 11. An alcohol lamp is very useful in many
experiments, and it is better than a candle for annealing or hardening
steel needles when making small magnets (App. 21). You can make a good
lamp by using a small bottle with a wide opening. A vaseline bottle or
even an ink bottle will do. Make a hole about 1/4 in. in diameter
through the cork with a small round file, or burn it through with a hot
nail. Make a cylinder of tin about 1-1/2 in. long and just large enough
to push through the hole. The tin may be simply rolled up. If you have
glass tubing, use a short length of that instead of the tin. For the
wick, roll up some flannel cloth. This should not fit the inside of the
tin tube too tightly. The alcohol should be put into the lamp when you
want to use it, and that left should be put back into the supply-bottle
when you have finished, as alcohol evaporates very rapidly. The flame of
this lamp is light-blue in color, and very hot.
Caution. Do not have your supply-bottle of alcohol near the lamp when
you light the latter, or near any other flame. The vapor of alcohol is
explosive.
APPARATUS 23.
_38. Spool Holder for Wire._ Fig. 12. When winding magnets it is
necessary to have the spool of wire so arranged that it will take care
of itself and not interfere with the winding. If you have a brace and
bit, bore a hole in a base 7/8 in. thick for a 1/4 in. dowel. The dowel
should fit the hole tight. The spools of wire purchased can then be
placed upon the dowel, where they will unwind evenly. The base may be
nailed or clamped to a table.
[Illustration: Fig. 12.]
APPARATUS 24.
_39. Spool Holder for Wire._ If you have no brace and bit to make App.
23, nail a spool to a wooden base, place a short length of dowel in the
spool, and use this combination as a spool holder. Make the dowel fit
the spool by winding paper around it.
APPARATUS 25.
_40. To Make Holes in Wood._ If you have a brace and a set of bits, or
even a small hand-drill, it will be an easy matter to bore holes in
wood. An awl should be used to make holes for screws, such as those
used in making binding-posts, etc., as the wood is very liable to split
if a screw is forced into it without a previously-made hole.
Red-hot nails, needles, etc., are easily made to burn holes of desired
diameters. They may be heated in a gas flame or by means of the alcohol
lamp (App. 22). Flat pieces of hot steel will burn narrow slots, and
small, square holes may be made with hot nails.
APPARATUS 26.
_41. To Make Holes in Sheet-Metal._ Fig. 13. Holes may be punched in
sheet-tin, copper, zinc, etc., in the following manner: Set a block of
hard wood, W, on end; that is, place it so that you will pound directly
against the end of the grain. Lay the metal, T, to be punched, upon
this, and use a flat-ended punch. A sharp blow upon a good punch with a
hammer will make a fairly clean hole; that is, it will cut out a piece
of metal, and push it down into the wood. A sharp-pointed punch will
merely push the metal aside, and leave a very ragged edge to the hole. A
punch may be made of a nail by filing its end flat.
[Illustration: Fig. 13.]
APPARATUS 27.
_42. To Punch Holes through Thick Yokes, etc._ As soon as 5 or 6 layers
are to be punched at one operation, the process becomes a little more
difficult than that given in App. 26. If you have an anvil, you can
place the yoke over one of the round holes in it, and punch the tin
right down into the hole, the ragged edges being afterward filed off.
Hold the yoke as in App. 79 or 80 for filing. As you will probably have
no anvil, lay an old nut from a bolt upon the end of the block of wood
(App. 26), place the metal to be punched over the hole, and imagine that
you have an anvil. Very good results may be obtained by this method. The
size of nut used will depend upon the size of hole wanted.
APPARATUS 28.
_43. To Straighten Wires._ It is often necessary to have short lengths
of wires straight, where they are to be made into bundles, etc. To
straighten them, lay one or two at a time upon a perfectly flat surface,
place a flat piece of board upon them, then roll them back and forth
between the two. The upper board should be pressed down upon the wires
while rolling them. If properly done, the wires can be quickly made as
straight as needles.
_44. Push-Buttons._ Nearly every house has use for one or more
push-buttons. The simple act of pressing your finger upon a movable
button, or knob, may ring a bell a mile away, or do some other equally
wonderful thing.
APPARATUS 29.
_45. Push-Button._ Fig. 14. This is made quickly, and may be easily
fastened to the window or door-casing. One wire is joined to A and the
other to C. B is a strip of tin or other metal, about 5/8 in. wide and 2
in. long. It is bent so that it will not touch A unless it is pressed
down. This may be placed anywhere, in an electric-bell circuit or other
open circuit, where it is desired to let the current pass for a moment
only at a time.
[Illustration: Fig. 14.]
APPARATUS 30.
_46. Push-Button._ Fig. 15 and Fig. 16. By placing App. 29 in a box, we
can make something that looks a little more like a real push-button.
Fig. 15 shows a plan with the box-cover removed, and Fig. 16 shows a
view of the inside of it, a part of the box being cut away. C, Fig. 15,
is a wooden pill-box 1 in. high and 1-3/4 in. in diameter. Make a 1/4
in. hole in the cover of C for the "button," G, which is a short piece
of 1/4 in. dowel. This rests upon a single thickness of tin, D, which is
cut into a strip 3/8 in. wide and about 1-1/4 in. long. In the bottom of
C are two holes just large enough to allow the screws E and F to pass
through. The wires, A and B, pass from the binding-posts, X and Y,
through small holes burned through the sides of the box, and are
fastened under the screw-heads. The whole box is screwed to the wooden
base, which is 3 x 4 x 7/8 in., by the screws, E and F. D should have
enough spring in it to raise itself and G when the pressure of the
finger is removed. The circuit will be closed only when you press the
button.
[Illustration: Fig. 15.]
[Illustration: Fig. 16.]
APPARATUS 31.
_47. Push-Button._ Figs. 17, 18, 19. Fig. 17 shows a top view or plan of
the apparatus. Fig. 18 is a sectional view; that is, we suppose that the
button has been cut into two parts along its length and through the
center line. Fig. 19 is an enlarged detail drawing of the underside of
the spool, C. The same part is marked by the same letter in all of the
figures.
[Illustration: Fig. 17.]
[Illustration: Fig. 18.]
[Illustration: Fig. 19.]
Saw an ordinary spool, C, into two parts. One-half of C will serve as
the outside case for the button. The part to be pressed with the finger
is a short length of 1/4 in. dowel. To keep this from falling out of the
hole in C, a short piece of wire nail, N, has been put through a small
hole in its lower end. A slot, F, has been burned or cut into the
underside of C, so that N can pass up and down in it when D is raised
and lowered. The rod, D, rests upon A, one of the contacts. This is a
straight piece of tin, cut as shown in Fig. 17, the narrow part being
1/4 in. wide and 1-1/4 in. long. The wide part is 3/4 in. wide and 1 in.
long. The other contact, B, is the same size as A. A deep groove, a
little over 1/4 in. wide, is cut into the base so that the narrow part
of B can be bent down below the end of A. The base shown is 4 x 2-1/2 x
7/8 in. The spool, C, is fastened to the base by 2 screws or wire nails
put up through the base, their positions being shown by the dots at E,
Fig. 17. X and Y, Fig. 18, are 2 screw binding-posts. It is evident that
the current cannot pass from X to Y, unless the button, D, be pressed
down so that the end of A will touch B.
APPARATUS 32.
_48. Sifter for Iron Filings._ Fig. 20. In making magnetic figures with
iron filings, it is an advantage to have the particles of iron fairly
small and uniform in size. A simple sifter may be made by pricking holes
in the bottom of a pasteboard pill-box with a pin. The sifter may be put
away with the filings in it, provided you turn it upside down.
[Illustration: Fig. 20.]
APPARATUS 33.
_49. Sifter for Iron Filings._ Fig. 21. Punch small holes in the cover
of a tin box with a small wire nail. If you have occasion to use sifters
for other purposes, the different sizes can be made by using larger and
smaller nails to punch the different tin covers. But one size of nail
should be used for one sifter.
[Illustration: Fig. 21.]
APPARATUS 34.
_50. Sifters_ may be made by pricking holes in an envelope. A sifter
with very small holes can be made of a piece of muslin cloth. This can
be used in the form of a little bag, or a piece of it can be pasted over
the open bottom of a pill-box.
APPARATUS 35.
_51. To Cut Wires, Nails, etc._ If you have no wire-cutters, or large
shears, you can cut large or small wires by hammering them against the
sharp edge of another hammer, an anvil, or a piece of iron. Do not let
the hammer itself hit upon the edge of the anvil. The above process will
make a V-shaped dent on one side of even large wires, or nails, when
they may be broken by bending back and forth.