CHAPTER 3.

SECOND EXPEDITION. FROM PERTH TO ADELAIDE, ROUND THE GREAT BIGHT.

A new Exploration suggested.

Proposal to reach Adelaide by way of the South Coast.

The experience derived from Eyre's Expedition.

Survey of Port Eucla.

Official Instructions.

The Start.

Dempster's Station near Esperance Bay.

The Schooner at Port Eucla.

Journal of the Expedition.

Immediately on my return to Perth a new expedition was suggested by Dr.

Von Mueller, whose anxiety for the discovery of Leichardt was rather

increased than abated by the disappointment experienced. He proposed that

I should start from the upper waters of the Murchison River with a light

party and provisions for six months, and endeavour to reach Carpentaria.

He thought, not only would such an expedition almost certainly find some

traces of the lost explorer, but probably would make geographical

discoveries of the highest interest and importance. In a paper in the

Colonial Monthly he argued that:

"While those who searched after traces of the lost party did not solve

the primary objects of their mission, their labours have not been without

importance to geographical science. The course of one traveller connected

the southern interior of Queensland in a direct route with the vast

pastoral depressions about Lake Torrens; the researches of another

explorer, bent on ascertaining Leichardt's fate, unfolded to us a tract

of table country, now already occupied by herds and flocks, not less in

length than that of Sweden and Italy...We should bear fully in mind how a

line in Leichardt's intended direction would at once enable the squatters

of North-East Australia to drive their surplus of flocks and herds easily

across to the well-watered, hilly and grassy country within close

proximity to the harbour of the north-west coast."

I should have been well satisfied to undertake an expedition in the

proposed direction, starting from the head of the Murchison, and trying

to connect my route with that of Mr. A. Gregory's down Sturt Creek; but

the difficulty of obtaining funds and lack of support caused the project

to be set aside or at least delayed. Mr. Weld, then Governor of Western

Australia, who always heartily supported explorations, was in favour of

an attempt to reach Adelaide by way of the south coast, and offered me

the command of an expedition in that direction.

I readily accepted the offer, and at once busied myself with the

necessary preparations, but was far from being insensible to the

difficulties of the undertaking. Of the route nothing was known except

the disastrous experience of Mr. Eyre in 1840 and 1841. His remarkable

narrative--interesting to all concerned in the history of explorations or

in the records of energy, courage, and perseverance under the most

discouraging circumstances--might have acted as a warning to future

explorers against endeavouring to follow in his track. The fearful

privations he endured, his narrow escape from the most terrible of all

forms of death, were certainly not encouraging; but his experience might

often be of service to others, pointing out dangers to be avoided, and

suggesting methods of overcoming difficulties. At any rate, I was not

deterred from the attempt to trace once more the coast of the Great

Bight, and to reach the sister colony by that route. Eyre had not

discovered any rivers, although it was possible that he might have

crossed the sand-bars of rivers in the night. The difficulties he

laboured under in his almost solitary journey, and the sufferings he

endured, might have rendered him unable to make observations and

discoveries more practicable to a better equipped and stronger party,

while the deficiency of water on the route appeared to offer the greatest

impediment. We were not, however, deterred from the attempt, and on the

30th of March, 1870, we started from Perth on a journey which all knew to

be dangerous, but which we were sanguine enough to believe might produce

considerable results.

That we were not disappointed the result will prove. Indeed, the

difficulties were much fewer than we had been prepared to encounter; and

in five months from the date of departure from Perth we arrived safely at

Adelaide, completing a journey which Mr. Eyre had been more than twelve

months in accomplishing.

THE EXPLORING PARTY.

My party was thus composed: I was leader; the second in command was my

brother, Alexander Forrest, a surveyor; H. McLarty, a police constable;

and W. Osborne, a farrier and shoeing smith, these with Tommy Windich,

the native who had served me so faithfully on the previous expedition,

and another native, Billy Noongale, an intelligent young fellow,

accompanied us.

Before I enter upon the details of my journey it may be useful to state

as briefly as possible the efforts made to obtain a better acquaintance

with the vast territory popularly known as No Man's Land, which had been

traversed by Eyre, and afterwards to summarize the little knowledge which

had been obtained.

In 1860 Major Warburton--who afterwards, in 1873 and 1874, succeeded in

crossing the northern part of the great inland desert, after enduring

great privations--contrived to reach eighty-five miles beyond the head of

the Bight, and made several journeys from the coast in a north and

north-westerly direction for a distance of about sixty miles. Traces of

Eyre's expedition were then visible. The holes he had dug in search of

water twenty years before were still there, and the records of his

journey were of great value as guiding Warburton's movements. His

experience of the nature of the country amply confirmed that of the

previous explorer. He found the district to the north to be a dreary

waste, destitute of food and water. Rain seldom fell, and, when it did,

was immediately absorbed by the arid soil. Bustards and moles were the

only living creatures. To the north-west there was a little grass, but

the tract showing verdure was very small in extent, and beyond it was

again the scorched, barren, inhospitable desert.

Two years afterwards other explorations were attempted, and especially

should be noted Captain Delessier's. He was disposed to think more

favourably of the nature of the country. The enterprise of squatters

seeking for "fresh fields and pastures new," to whom square miles

represent less than acres to graziers and sheep farmers in England--is

not easily daunted. They made a few settlements; but the scanty pasturage

and the difficulty of obtaining water, by sinking wells, in some

instances to the depth of over 200 feet, have been great drawbacks.

DISCOVERY OF PORT EUCLA.

It might naturally be inquired why no attempts were made to reach the

coast of the Great Bight by sea? Why so much suffering has been endured

when a well-equipped vessel might have landed explorers at various points

and been ready to afford them assistance? In his explorations to the

north of Western Australia, Mr. F. Gregory had a convenient base of

operations in the Dolphin, a barque which remained on the coast. It might

seem that similar aid could have been afforded to Warburton and others

who attempted to trace the south-coast line. But for hundreds of miles

along the shores of the Bight no vessel could reach the shore or lie

safely at anchor. Long ranges of perpendicular cliffs, from 300 to 400

feet high, presented a barrier effectually forbidding approach by sea.

About 1867, however, an excellent harbour was discovered about 260 miles

to the west of Fowler's Bay. The South Australian Government at once

undertook a survey of this harbour, and Captain Douglas, President of the

Marine Board, the officer entrusted with this duty, reported in the most

favourable terms. The roadstead, named Port Eucla, was found to afford

excellent natural protection for shipping. There was, however, the less

encouraging circumstance that it was situated a few miles to the west of

the boundary of the colony, and consequently Western, and not South,

Australia was entitled to the benefit of the discovery.

It was evident that Port Eucla, which Captain Douglas carefully surveyed

by taking soundings and observing bearings, was the key to the

exploration of this vast portion of the continent. But, notwithstanding

the propositions made to the Government of Western Australia by the York

Agricultural Society for equipping an exploring party, nothing was done

until the beginning of 1870, when the Governor determined on equipping an

overland party intended to make its way, keeping as far inland as

possible, to Eucla, where assistance and supplies would await them. It

was this expedition which I was selected to command. The following copy

of official instructions will show the object of the exploration and the

preparations made to insure a fair prospect of a successful result:--

OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS.

Colonial Secretary's Office, Perth,

March 29th, 1870.

SIR,

His Excellency the Governor, confiding in your experience, ability, and

discretion, has been pleased to entrust to your charge and leadership an

overland expedition, which has been organized for the purpose of

exploring the country between the settled portions of this colony and the

Port of Eucla, situated near its east boundary.

Your party will consist of the following six persons, well armed, and

provisioned for two months, namely, yourself as leader; Mr. Alexander

Forrest, your brother, as second in command; H. McLarty, a

police-constable, third in command; W.H. Osborne, farrier, etc.; and two

reliable natives, one of whom will be your former well-tried companion,

Windich. An agreement to serve under you on the expedition in the above

capacities will be signed by each European named previous to starting.

Ample stores and supply of provisions have been prepared for your use,

and a suitable coasting vessel (the schooner Adur) is engaged, under an

experienced commander, to convey them where required, and to be at your

disposal in aiding the operations of the expedition.

It is desirable the party should start from Perth as soon as all

arrangements have been completed, and take the most convenient route to

Esperance Bay, where men and horses can be recruited, further supplies

from the coaster laid in, and a fresh start made for Eucla so soon as the

first winter rains may lead to a prospect of the country being

sufficiently watered.

About 120 miles to the eastward of the station of Messrs. Dempster, at

the west end of Esperance Bay, lies Israelite Bay, under some islands, in

front of which there is said to be anchorage. That being the nearest

known anchorage westward of Eucla, it appears to offer a convenient spot

whence fresh supplies might be drawn from your coaster with which to

prosecute the remaining 300 miles; but this arrangement as to an

intermediate place of call will be liable to modification, after

consulting on the spot with the Messrs. Dempster, who are well acquainted

with that part of the coast.

Between Israelite Bay and Eucla the route should be as far from the coast

as circumstances and the nature of the country will admit.

At Eucla all the remaining provisions and stores that may be required

should be landed, and the coaster despatched on her return to Fremantle

with a report of your proceedings.

After recruiting at Eucla, five or six days might be employed with

advantage in exploring the country to the northward, care being taken to

place in security, by burying in casks or otherwise, such provisions,

etc., as might not be necessary for the northern excursion.

On returning to Eucla from the north, the expedition is to make a final

start overland for Adelaide, by such route as you may deem advisable. The

Surveyor-General is of opinion that via Port Lincoln, and thence to

Adelaide by steamer, would be the preferable route; but of this you will

be the best judge, after receiving information from the various

out-stations you will pass. Before leaving South Australia, you will

dispose of your horses and such remaining stores and provisions as may

not be further required, retaining all instruments and such pack-saddles

and other articles of outfit as you may deem worth preserving for future

service.

On arriving at Adelaide you will report yourself to his Excellency the

Governor, and avail yourself of the first favourable opportunity of

returning to Perth with your party, and with the remains of your outfit,

either by any vessel about to proceed direct to the Swan, or by the

earliest mail-steamer to King George's Sound. On application to his

Excellency, Sir James Fergusson, you will be furnished with such means as

may be necessary to defray your expenses from South to Western Australia,

as well as during your stay in the former colony.

I am to impress on you the advisability of endeavouring, by every means

in your power, to cultivate friendly relations with the aboriginal

inhabitants of the country you are about to traverse.

Such are briefly the general instructions by which it is intended you

should be governed in conducting the expedition entrusted to your care

and guidance; and I may add that the fullest confidence is placed in your

energy, zeal, and discretion, for bringing it to a successful issue. The

main objects of the undertaking are alone referred to; and, although a

mode of accomplishing them is briefly alluded to, it is by no means

intended to fetter your judgment in adopting such measures of minor

details as may appear to you necessary for effectually carrying them out.

I have the honour to be, Sir, your obedient servant,

FRED. P. BARLEE.

DEPARTURE FROM PERTH.

The Adur, chartered by the Government, was a vessel of thirty tons, owned

by Mr. Gabriel Adams. It gives me much pleasure to express my thanks to

him and to Mr. Waugh, the master, and to the crew of the vessel, for the

important services they performed, and the zeal they exhibited in

rendering me assistance, not only on board the vessel, but also on shore.

We started from Perth on the afternoon of Wednesday, the 30th of March,

1870. His Excellency the Governor accompanied us for about three miles on

the Albany Road. We had fifteen horses, and provisions sufficient for the

journey to Esperance Bay, a distance of about 450 miles, where, it was

arranged, further supplies would await us. By the 5th of April we had

reached Kojonup, travelling in a north-easterly direction, and then

rested four days, leaving for Jerramungup on the 9th, and reaching it on

the 13th. Our first day's journey brought us to Mr. Graham's homestead,

near which we bivouacked; thence our route lay in an easterly direction,

at first through good grassy country with jam and white gum trees and

shea oaks, by way of Etticup, Martinup (where we bivouacked on the night

of the 10th), and Nigalup, beyond which were scrubby sand-plains

extending southwards towards the Stirling range. On the following night

we camped near some granite rocks. The next day's journey extended to

Koorarkup, where we again rested. Our rate of travel was from twenty to

twenty-five miles a day, and already we began to experience inconvenience

from want of water. A little stream, the Pallinup, was salt, and there

were salt pools on the route between our last camping-place and

Koorarkup, where we were now resting.

Around Jerramungup was rich grassy country, but beyond it we passed over

scrubby undulating plains for about sixteen miles, camping, on the night

of the 14th, on a small branch of the Fitzgerald River, near some granite

rocks called Dwertup. At this spot there was water, but very little feed

for the horses. My observations showed that we were in latitude 33

degrees 1 minute 15 seconds south.

From this point the progress will be best narrated by extracts from my

Diary. A reference to the map will show that as yet we had not reached

the track of Eyre, who had followed the coast to King George's Sound; but

by the 16th of April we had reached his line of route.

April 15th.

Travelled to the north of east, and at seven miles crossed the main

branch of the Fitzgerald River; granite rocks in bed, and saltwater

pools. After travelling over stony undulating country for twenty-one

miles, camped on a small patch of feed, with water in some granite rocks,

called Coombedup.

16th.

Continuing easterly over rough stony country, crossing several brooks

with salt pools of water in them, we reached the Phillips River, and,

after a good deal of searching, found some fresh water in a small brook

near the river. The immense pools in the Phillips were as salt as sea

water. Distance travelled about twenty-five miles.

VIEW OF THE SEA.

17th (Sunday).

Did not travel. Went this morning, in company with McLarty, to the summit

of a high hill in Eyre's Range, called Annie's Peak, which we reached

after one and a half hour's hard climbing. It is the steepest hill I ever

attempted to ascend. We had a splendid view of the sea--the first since

leaving Perth--and I also obtained a fine round of angles and bearings.

On our return, found Billy had shot five ducks, and Tommy soon returned

with an emu. In the evening it very suddenly came on to thunder and

lighten, and soon rained in torrents, and, as we were rather unprepared,

we did not pass a very pleasant night.

18th.

Just as we had collected the horses it commenced to rain in torrents; got

under way, however, by 9 o'clock, steering in about an easterly direction

over sandy, scrubby country, and at ten miles crossed a brook with salt

pools in it, and afterwards reached a large river of salt water, which we

followed about two miles, and then camped at a spring called Jerdacuttup.

It rained in torrents the whole day, blowing hard from the southward, so

that all were drenched when we halted.

19th.

After travelling about twenty-three miles, in an easterly direction, we

reached a salt lake, called Parriup, and camped. Procured water on some

granite rocks near camp.

20th.

Travelling nine miles, reached Mr. Campbell Taylor's station on the

Oldfield River, and rested for the remainder of the day.

21st.

After starting the party, with instructions to reach and camp on north

side of Stokes' Inlet, distant about twenty miles, I went with Mr. Taylor

to the mouth of the Oldfield River, in order to take bearings to East

Mount Barren, but was disappointed, the weather being very hazy.

Accompanied by a native of Mr. Taylor's, followed on the tracks, but,

night setting in, we made the best of our way to where I expected to find

the party, but could see nothing of them, and were obliged to camp for

the night without food, and, what was worse, without a fire, having

neither matches nor powder with us. Luckily I had a rug, by which means I

fared much better than my companion, who had only a small kangaroo skin.

As it blew and rained in torrents most of the night, our position can be

better imagined than described.

22nd.

Early this morning we were looking for the tracks of the party, but

without success; finally we returned eight miles to the Margaret River,

and, after a good deal of searching, found the tracks almost obliterated

by the rain, and followed along them. Upon nearing Stokes' Inlet we met

Tommy Windich looking for us, he having seen the tracks and last night's

bivouac. He informed me that they had camped about four miles westward of

the inlet, and we had therefore passed them in the dark last night. Made

all haste to overtake the party; succeeded in doing so, after a great

deal of trouble, one hour and a half after dark. Encamped on north side

of Barker's Inlet, at a small well of water called Booeynup. We did

justice to the supper, as we had not had anything to eat for thirty-two

hours.

23rd.

For the first nine miles over scrubby sand-plains, kangaroos very

numerous, when we came into and skirted a chain of salt lakes and

marshes. Continuing over generally low country, well grassed, for five

miles, we reached and camped at the old homestead of the Messrs.

Dempster, called Mainbenup.

ESPERANCE BAY.

24th (Sunday).

Left camp in company with Billy Noongale, and proceeded to Esperance Bay,

distant twenty-four miles. On getting in view of the Bay, was much

disappointed to see no schooner lying at anchor, and felt very anxious

for her safety. Was very kindly received by Mrs. Andrew Dempster; the

Messrs. Dempster being away on Mondrain Island.

25th.

Went several times up on the hill, looking out for the Adur, but was each

time disappointed. On my return in the evening, found the party had

arrived from Mainbenup, and had camped.

26th.

Rained very heavily all last night. Shifted camp over one mile west of

homestead to a sheltered spot, where there was feed and wood. No signs of

the Adur.

27th and 28th.

Rested at camp; the weather very stormy. The Messrs. Dempster returned

from Mondrain Island this evening.

29th.

Shifted camp back to the homestead, and camped in a sheltered nook near

the Head. On ascending the Look-out Hill this evening, was rejoiced to

espy the Adur near Cape Le Grand, making in for the Bay, and at 8 o'clock

went off in Messrs. Dempster's boat, and had the great pleasure of

finding all hands well. They had experienced heavy weather, but

everything was dry and safe. I cannot find words to express the joy and

relief from anxiety this evening; all fears and doubts were at an end,

and I was now in a position to attempt to carry out my instructions.

The Messrs. Dempster, whose hospitality was so welcome, are good

specimens of the enterprising settlers who are continually advancing the

frontiers of civilization, pushing forward into almost unknown regions,

and establishing homesteads which hereafter may develop into important

towns. In ten days we had journeyed 160 miles, and had enjoyed a

foretaste of the nature of the country through which we should have to

make our way. Four days' rest recruited our energies, and the arrival of

the Adur, with stores, gave all the party excellent spirits.

The last day of April was occupied with landing the stores required for

immediate use, and the following day, being Sunday, we rested, and,

observing the practice adopted in my previous expeditions, I read Divine

Service to a somewhat larger congregation than I generally had around me.

The horses had suffered from sore backs, the result of saddles being

stuffed with straw; and on the two following days we were all busy

restuffing them with wool, and I set Osborn, the farrier, to work to

widen and alter the iron-work, so as to make the saddles more comfortable

and easy to the horses. From the 3rd to the 8th of May we remained at Mr.

Dempster's, and I made a survey of his location, a tract of forty acres.

On Saturday, the 7th, Mr. William Dempster left for Perth, and I had the

opportunity of sending a report of our proceedings to that date to the

Colonial Secretary, and also of forwarding private letters.

LAST DAY IN ESPERANCE BAY.

Sunday, the 8th, being our last day in Esperance Bay, was passed quietly,

all attending Divine Service at Mr. Dempster's house; and on the

following morning we prepared to start on the second stage of our

journey. The Adur was to meet us again at Israelite Bay, about 120 miles

to the eastward; and here I resume the extracts from my Diary:--

May 9th.

After collecting the horses, we saddled up and started en route for

Israelite Bay, where I had instructed the master of the Adur to meet us.

Bidding good-bye to our kind friends at Esperance Bay, travelled along

the north shore for about eleven miles, when we left the coast and

steered towards Mount Merivale, and camped at a spring on South-East

corner of a salt sake, Mount Merivale bearing North 60 degrees East

magnetic; Frenchman's Peak North 150 degrees East magnetic, and

Remarkable Island North 196 degrees East magnetic. The country for the

last few miles is beautifully grassed, with numerous brackish streams

running through. Commenced keeping watch this evening, two hours each,

from 8 p.m. to 6 o'clock a.m. Marked a tree with the letter F. at our

bivouac.

10th.

Travelled nearly due East for twenty-four miles, through scrubby, sandy

country without timber. Remarkable bare granite hills studded in every

direction. Camped at a spring on South-East side of granite hills,

resembling a saddle. Passed Mount Hawes, leaving it a little to the

north. From hill near camp, Mount Hawes bore North 295 degrees East

magnetic, Mount Merivale North 278 degrees East magnetic, Frenchman's

Peak North 243 degrees 30 minutes East magnetic, and the east side of

Mondrain Island North 207 degrees 30 minutes East magnetic.

11th.

The horses having strayed back on the tracks last night, we were delayed

till 10 o'clock, when only eight of them were brought in. Sent Tommy in

search of the remainder, and, after waiting until 3 o'clock for his

return, my brother, Osborn, and Billy went with seven horses and loads;

instructed to camp at the first place where there was feed and water,

there being no feed at this camp. McLarty and myself waited until Tommy

returned, which he did at sundown, having had to go back twenty-four

miles to the bivouac of the 9th. There being scarcely any feed here, and

it being too late to follow after the party, we tied up our horses for

the night. Found it rather long hours watching, namely, about four hours

each. By meridian altitude of sun, camp is in latitude 33 degrees 90

minutes 49 seconds South.

12th.

Packed up and followed on the tracks of the party, and at ten miles found

them camped on a branch of a creek which runs into Duke of Orleans Bay.

Brackish streams plentiful: scrubby, sandy country. By meridian altitudes

of sun and Arcturus, camp is in South latitude 33 degrees 51 minutes 35

seconds.

THE ALEXANDER RIVER.

13th.

Travelled in an easterly direction towards Cape Arid, passing at five

miles a large creek, and at ten miles camped on a running brackish

stream, which I named the Alexander. Scrubby open country most of the

way. Shot a few ducks from thousands that are in these rivers.

14th.

Continuing a little to the south of East for ten miles, crossed a large

brook, and at fourteen miles reached another creek. Followed it up a mile

and camped on east side of a large salt lagoon, into which the brook

empties. Splendid green feed around camp, but no water. Went with Billy

to look for some, and, after going a mile and a half East, struck the

Thomas River, where we met two natives, quietly disposed, who showed us

the water, and, after filling our canteens, returned with us to camp.

15th (Sunday).

Shifted camp over to the Thomas River, one mile and a half, where there

was plenty of water. Rained a little during the day. Grassy piece of

country round camp--the first good feeding land seen since leaving Mount

Merivale. About half a mile west of camp, Mount Ragged bore North 43

degrees 30 minutes East magnetic, Mount Baring North 53 degrees 15

minutes East magnetic, and South-West point of Cape Arid North 140

degrees 30 minutes East. By meridian altitude of sun, camp was in south

latitude 33 degrees 50 minutes 7 seconds, and longitude about 123 degrees

East. Billy shot five ducks this afternoon.

16th.

Got an early start and steered nearly East, accompanied by the two

natives, over scrubby sand-plains for about twenty-one miles. We camped

near the sea, a few miles to the westward of Cape Pasley. Filled our

canteens about two miles back from where we camped, from which point

Mount Ragged bore North 11 degrees East magnetic, Cape Pasley North 110

degrees 30 minutes East magnetic, and South-East point of Cape Arid North

214 degrees East magnetic.

17th.

Steering in an East-North-East direction for about nineteen miles, we

camped near Point Malcolm, Mount Ragged bearing North 327 degrees East

magnetic, and Point Dempster (Israelite Bay) North 35 degrees 15 minutes

East magnetic. Hope to reach Israelite Bay to-morrow, as it is only

sixteen miles distant. There was no water at Point Malcolm, but luckily

we had filled our canteens. The wind was strong from the westward,

accompanied with light showers all day. Tommy shot a kangaroo this

evening, and the two natives who were travelling with us from the Thomas

River did ample justice to the supper, literally eating the whole night.

ISRAELITE BAY.

18th.

After starting the party, went in advance with Billy to prepare camp at

Israelite Bay. When we reached it were delighted to find the Adur lying

safely at anchor there; proceeding on board, found all well. Procured

abundance of water by digging one foot deep in the sand-hills, and good

feed a short distance from camp.

Our friends on the Adur were looking anxiously for us. We were two days

behind the appointed time, and they feared some evil had befallen us, not

taking into consideration the many delays incidental to such a journey

through strange and difficult country as we had made. We had occupied ten

days in reaching Israelite Bay since leaving Mr. Dempster's station,

going an average of about twelve miles a day, which would be a slow rate

of progress in a settled country, but which had sufficiently tried our

horses, they being now in a very reduced condition from scarcity of feed.

I resolved to stay at the camp for eight or ten days to recruit the

horses, as there was good feed in the vicinity; and we re-stuffed and

re-fitted the saddles and had the horses shod. I made a correct chart of

the route from Esperance Bay, and found that the coast-line, as laid down

in the Admiralty charts, was in many places incorrect.

On the 24th of May we determined to celebrate the Queen's birthday. All

hands from the Adur came ashore, and I drew them up in line under the

Union Jack, which was duly hoisted near the camp. We presented arms; sang

God Save the Queen vigorously, and fired a salute of twenty-one guns,

finishing with three cheers. I venture to record that our vocal efforts

were as sincerely and heartily made in the Australian wilderness as any

which rang that day in any part of her Majesty's wide dominions. We were

all highly delighted--not only feeling that we had done our duty as loyal

subjects, but other celebrations in more civilized places were forcibly

recalled to memory.

I had fixed the 30th as the time for our fresh start, and we had enough

to do in packing bags, and making general repairs and improvements in our

outfit. Eucla Bay, the only other point at which we should be able to

communicate with the coaster, was 350 miles to the east of Israelite Bay.

The nature of the country was quite unknown, except so far as indicated

by the not very encouraging record of Eyre's journey. We felt that we

should inevitably have to encounter considerable difficulties, and

perhaps even fail to reach Eucla. I deemed it right to give explicit

directions to Mr. Waugh, the master of the schooner, so that, in the

event of not meeting with us at the appointed place, he should have no

difficulty as to the course to pursue, and to that end I gave him in

writing the following instructions:--

INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE SCHOONER.

Israelite Bay, 28th May, 1870.

SIR,

It being my intention to start for Eucla on Monday, the 30th instant, I

have the honour to direct you will be good enough to make arrangements

for leaving this place on the 7th of June, wind and weather permitting,

and sail as direct as possible for Port Eucla, situated in south latitude

31 degrees 43 minutes, and east longitude 128 degrees 52 minutes East.

You will remain at anchor in Port Eucla until the 1st September, long

before which time I hope to reach and meet you there. No signs of myself

or party appearing by that date, you will bury in casks under the Black

Beacon, 400 pounds flour, 200 pounds pork, 100 pounds sugar, 10 pounds

tea, and four bags barley, together with the remainder of our clothing on

board. You will be careful to hide the spot of concealment as much as

possible, or by any other means that may suggest themselves. Also you

will bury a bottle containing report of your proceedings.

All these matters had better be attended to a day or two before, and on

the 2nd of September you will set sail and return with all despatch to

this place (Israelite Bay), where, if I have been obliged to return, I

will leave buried a bottle at this spot (arranged by us yesterday), which

will contain instructions as to your future proceedings.

No signs of our return being found here, you will sail for Fremantle,

calling at Esperance Bay on your way.

On arriving in Fremantle, you will immediately report your return to the

Honourable the Colonial Secretary, and forward him a report of your

proceedings, after which your charter-party will have been completed.

These arrangements are chiefly respecting your proceedings in the event

of our not reaching Eucla; and I may add that, although I have every hope

of reaching there in safety, still it is impossible to command success in

any enterprise, and I have to impress upon you the necessity of these

instructions being carried out, as nearly as possible, to the very

letter. Wishing yourself and crew a prosperous voyage, and hoping soon to

meet you in Port Eucla,

I have, etc.,

JOHN FORREST,

Leader of Expedition.

Mr. R.B. Waugh,

Master of Schooner Adur.

STARTING FOR EUCLA.

On Sunday, the 29th of May, all hands came ashore to dinner. It was

certainly a festive party under rather extraordinary circumstances, but

it was heartily enjoyed. So far as we were concerned the future was more

than usually uncertain; but there was no feeling of despondency, and we

separated in the evening with mutual good wishes and hopes for the

success of the expedition. I read Divine Service, and, situated as we

were, a small party remote from civilization, I think we all felt more

impressed than under ordinary circumstances would have been the case. We

had rested for eleven days. Good food had restored the condition of the

horses, and we rested in our camp in good spirits, ready for the work we

were to begin on the following morning. My observations showed that we

were in latitude 33 degrees 36 minutes 58 seconds South and longitude

about 123 degrees 48 minutes East, the variation of compass from a number

of azimuths being about 0 degrees 46 minutes westerly.

The narrative is now continued in extracts from my Diary:--

May 30th.

After bidding good-bye to the crew of the Adur, and to the two natives we

have had with us from the Thomas River, who were now at the end of their

country and were afraid to come any further with us, we left Israelite

Bay en route for Eucla, and steered in a northerly direction for about

fifteen miles over salt marshes and clay-pans, with dense thickets

intervening, destitute of grass. I was obliged to make for the coast,

and, following it for about eight miles, we camped close to it, without

water or feed, and tied up our horses in latitude 33 degrees 17 minutes

17 seconds by meridian altitude of Arcturus and a Bootes.

31st.

Saddled up at dawn and continued along the beach for four miles; came to

a large sand patch, and found abundance of water by digging one foot deep

in the hollows. Camped on east side of the sand-hills, with first-rate

feed for the horses. By meridian altitude of sun, camp is in latitude 33

degrees 13 minutes 46 seconds South.

June 1st.

After starting the party, went with Tommy Windich to examine the country

to the North-West, and then, travelling nine miles over salt marshes and

samphire flats, with dense scrub intervening, we reached what is named on

the Admiralty Charts The Front Bank, which, ascending, we found very

steep and rough. At last, gaining the summit, the country receded to the

north, level and thickly wooded, as far as the eye could reach. We

travelled about four miles to the North-West, from where we ascended the

range, and then climbed a tree to have a view of the country, which I

found very level and thickly wooded with mallee. I therefore determined

to turn east, and if possible, reach the party to-night. Accordingly, we

reached the sea, and, following the tracks of the party, came up with

them at about 10 p.m., encamped on North-East side of an immense

sand-patch, about twenty-five miles from our last night's bivouac. There

was abundance of water on the surface in the hollows of the sand-hills.

2nd.

There being no feed near camp, saddled up and continued towards Point

Culver for four miles and camped, with only some coarse grass growing on

the white sand-hills for our very hungry horses. Found plenty of water by

digging. This is a poor place for the horses: intend making a flying trip

to the North-East to-morrow. By meridian altitude of sun and Arcturus,

camp is in latitude 32 degrees 55 minutes 30 seconds south, and longitude

124 degrees 25 minutes east.

3rd.

Started with my brother and Billy to examine the country to the

North-East, and travelled in about a North-East direction for twenty-five

miles over very level country, but in many places most beautifully

grassed. We camped on a splendid flat, without water.

A VIEW OF THE SEA.

4th.

Started at dawn and travelled in a southerly direction for nine miles,

when we found a rock water-hole containing one gallon, and had breakfast.

Continuing for four miles, we reached the cliffs, which fell

perpendicularly into the sea, and, although grand in the extreme, were

terrible to gaze from. After looking very cautiously over the precipice,

we all ran back quite terror-stricken by the dreadful view. Turning our

course westward along the cliffs, we reached camp at 5 o'clock, and found

all well. We saw several natives' tracks during the day.

5th (Sunday).

Rested at camp. Read Divine Service. Intend making preparations to-morrow

for starting on Tuesday morning, and attempt to reach the water shown on

Mr. Eyre's track, in longitude 126 degrees 24 minutes East, 150 miles

distant, by carrying thirty gallons of water with us and walking in

turns, so as to have the horses to carry the water. Intend allowing each

man one quart and each horse two quarts per day. Feel very anxious as to

the result, as it will take five or six days; but it is the only resource

left. After explaining my views to my companions, and pointing out the

great probability of our meeting with small rock water-holes, was much

relieved by the sanguine way in which they acquiesced in the plans, and

the apparent confidence they placed in me.

6th.

Filled the water-cans, and got everything ready for a start to-morrow

morning.

7th.

Started at 9 a.m., carrying over thirty gallons of water with us. One of

the drums leaked so much that we left it at camp. Travelled along our

outward tracks of the 4th, and camped at our former bivouac, with

splendid feed, but no water for our horses.

8th.

Started early, and steered about North-East through dense mallee

thickets, destitute of grass or water, for eighteen miles. We came upon a

small patch of open grassy land, and camped without water for our horses.

This is the second night our horses have been without water, but the

grass has been fresh, and they do not yet appear to have suffered much.

Marked a tree at camp, F., 1870. My brother, I am sorry to say, left his

revolver at our last night's bivouac, and did not notice it until this

evening, when it was too far to send back to look for it. By meridian

altitude of Arcturus, camp is in latitude 32 degrees 34 minutes 20

seconds south, and longitude 124 degrees 59 minutes east.

SUFFERINGS FROM THIRST.

9th.

Made an early start, steering North-East, and at one mile found a rock

water-hole containing fifteen gallons, which we gave the tired, thirsty

horses, and, continuing, chiefly through dense mallee thickets, with a

few grassy flats intervening, for twenty-two miles, found another rock

water-hole holding about ten gallons, which we also gave the horses, and,

after travelling one mile from it, camped on a large grassy flat, without

water for the horses. Our horses are still very thirsty, and have yet

seventy miles to go before reaching the water in longitude 126 degrees 24

minutes East. Am very thankful for finding the little water to-day, for

if we had none, our situation would be somewhat perilous, and some of the

horses would probably show signs of distress to-morrow. Latitude of camp,

32 degrees 20 minutes 35 seconds South by Arcturus, and longitude 125

degrees 16 minutes East.

10th.

Steering East-North-East over generally open country, grassy flats, etc.,

thinly wooded, for twenty-one miles, found a small rock water-hole

containing three gallons, which we put into our canteens. After

travelling three miles further, camped on the edge of a grassy flat, and

gave our horses half a gallon each from our canteens. Our horses appear

fearfully distressed this evening. For the last ninety-six hours they

have only had two gallons each. Latitude of camp 32 degrees 11 minutes 5

seconds South, longitude 125 degrees 37 minutes East.

11th.

Found, on collecting the horses, that four were missing. Those found were

in a sad state for want of water, and there was not a moment to lose. I

therefore at once told Tommy to look for those missing, and, after

saddling up, sent the party on with my brother, with instructions to

steer easterly for nearly fifty miles, when they would reach the water in

longitude 126 degrees 24 minutes East. I remained behind to await Tommy's

return, and, after an hour's awful anxiety, was rejoiced to see him

returning with the ramblers. We lost no time in following after the

party, and at two miles came to a water-hole they had emptied and given

to the horses (fifteen gallons), and at five miles overtook them. After

travelling ten miles, found another water-hole with fifteen gallons,

which we also gave our horses, they being still very thirsty. At fourteen

miles found a water-hole holding three gallons, which we transferred to

our canteens; and at fifteen miles camped on a small but very grassy

flat, close to which we found a water-hole of ten gallons, which I intend

giving the horses to-morrow morning. Although the horses are still very

thirsty, they are much relieved, and are willing to feed. We all felt

tired from long, weary, and continued walking. By meridian altitude of

Arcturus, camp is in latitude 32 degrees 13 minutes South, and longitude

125 degrees 51 minutes East.

12th (Sunday).

After giving the horses the little water found by Tommy last evening, we

struck a little to the south of east over generally grassy country,

slightly undulating for three miles, when, being in advance, walking, I

found a large water-hole with about 100 gallons of water in it. It being

Sunday, and men and horses very tired, I halted for the day, as there was

most luxuriant feed round camp. Our horses soon finished the water, and

looked much better after it. Although now without water, we are in

comparative safety, as the horses have had nearly sufficient. We are now

only thirty-two miles from the water shown on Mr. Eyre's chart, in

longitude 126 degrees 24 minutes East. Latitude of camp 32 degrees 13

minutes 35 seconds South, and longitude 125 degrees 54 minutes East.

MEETING NATIVES.

13th.

Made an early start, and steering a little to the south of east, keeping

straight for the water in longitude 126 degrees 24 minutes East. At

eighteen miles got a view of the sea, and beheld the sand-hills about

fifteen miles ahead. Here we saw some natives' fires close to us.

Approaching them, we came upon an old woman, and my brother and Tommy

soon brought a man to bay. There were about twenty round us; they

appeared very frightened. After detaining them half an hour, and treating

them as kindly as possible, we bade them farewell and continued our

journey. The natives were entirely naked. After we left the natives, we

came to where the cliffs leave the sea, in longitude 126 degrees 12

minutes East. From here Point Dover was clearly visible, and I cannot

express my feelings when gazing on the scene. To the westward, those

grand precipitous cliffs, from 200 to 300 feet high, and Point Dover,

near which Mr. Eyre's overseer was murdered, could easily be discerned;

and while thinking over his hardships and miseries, we turned our faces

eastward, and there saw, within a few miles, the water we so much needed.

We then descended the cliffs and reached the sea shore, which we followed

for about twelve miles, reaching the first sand-patch at about 10 o'clock

p.m. There was good feed all around, but we could not, from the darkness,

find any water. Gave our horses all we had with us, about fifteen

gallons.

A GLIMPSE OF THE ADUR.

14th.

This morning searched the sand-patches for water, without success; I

therefore packed up and proceeded towards another large patch, four miles

distant, going in advance with Billy. After we left, Tommy found a place

used by the natives, where water could be procured by digging. He,

however, followed after Billy and myself. On reaching the sand-patch we

saw the place where water could be procured by digging; we also found

sufficient to satisfy our horses on some sandstone flats. We were soon

joined by the party, who were overjoyed to be in perfect safety once

more, and we were all thankful to that Providence which had guarded us

over 150 miles without finding permanent water. We soon pitched camp, and

took the horses to the feed, which was excellent. Returning, we were

surprised to see a vessel making in for the land, and soon made her out

to be the Adur. Although the wind was favourable for Eucla, she made in

for the land until within about three miles, when she turned eastward,

and, although we made fires, was soon out of sight. I afterwards

ascertained that they were not sure of their longitude, having no

chronometer on board, and therefore wished to see some landmark.

15th.

Dug two wells to-day, and found good water at seven feet from the

surface. Lined them with stakes and bushes to keep them from filling in.

In the afternoon we all amused ourselves shooting wattle-birds, and

managed to kill fifteen.

16th.

Dug another well and bushed it up, the supply from the two dug yesterday

being insufficient, and obtained an ample quantity of splendid fresh

water. By a number of observations, camp is in latitude 32 degrees 14

minutes 50 seconds South, and longitude 126 degrees 24 minutes East, the

variation of compass being about 1 degree 6 minutes easterly. The horses

are improving very quickly, there being splendid feed round the

sand-patches.

17th.

Went with Tommy Windich for a walk eastward along the beach, and returned

a little inland. Passed over some patches of beautiful grassed country.

Saw a pine pole standing on one of the hummocks near the beach, probably

erected by Mr. Eyre, as I am not aware of any one else having been here.

We could not find any of his camps, however; doubtless the sand has long

since covered them.

18th.

Making preparations for a flying trip inland on Monday.

19th (Sunday).

Read Divine Service. Every appearance of rain.

20th.

Started this morning, in company with McLarty and Tommy Windich, to

explore the country to the northward. The first twelve miles north was

through very dense thickets and sandy hills, when we reached the cliffs,

which we ascended with difficulty, and steering about North-North-East

for the first three miles, through dense mallee thickets, we emerged into

a generally grassy country, and travelled over beautifully-grassed downs.

We camped at a rock water-hole of fifteen gallons, about twenty-five

miles from main camp.

21st.

Steering about north for one mile, we found a rock water-hole holding

about thirty gallons; and continuing for thirteen miles over grassy

plains, thinly wooded, the country became very clear and open, and at

twenty-five miles there was nothing but plains, gently undulating, of

grass and salt-bush in view. Far as the eye could reach to the

North-West, North, and North-East, this clear and grassy country

extended; and being now fifty miles from camp, with the prospect of

finding water diminishing as we travelled northward, I determined to

return. Accordingly struck South-West, and after travelling twelve miles

found a small water-hole of three gallons, and camped for the night. Set

watch as follows: myself 7 to 11, McLarty 11 to 3.30 a.m., and Tommy from

3.30 to 6 a.m. We found them rather long hours.

22nd.

Saddled up at dawn, and steering southerly over clear, open, grassy

plains for twenty-eight miles, we reached the cliffs, and rested an hour;

after which we continued our journey and reached camp a little after

dark, finding all well.

A RELIC OF EYRE.

23rd.

Made preparations for a start for Eucla to-morrow, and put everything in

travelling order. During my absence, Osborn had got the horses' feet in

order, and the pack-saddles had been overhauled, and repairs generally

made. In looking round the camp, Tommy Windich found shoulder-blade of a

horse, and two small pieces of leather. They no doubt belonged to Mr.

Eyre's equipment, and, on reference to his journal, I find he was here

obliged to kill a horse for food. In his journal he writes thus: "Early

on the morning of the 16th April, 1841, I sent the overseer to kill the

unfortunate horse, which was still alive but unable to rise from the

ground, having never moved from the place where he had first been found

lying yesterday morning. The miserable animal was in the most wretched

state possible, thin and emaciated by long and continued suffering, and

labouring under some complaint that in a very few hours, at the farthest,

must have terminated its life." I cut off part of the shoulder-blade, and

have since given it, together with the pieces of leather, to his

Excellency Governor Weld.

A PARTY OF NATIVES.

24th.

Started at 8.30 a.m. en route for Eucla. Steering in a North-North-East

direction for fifteen miles, reached the cliffs, and after following

along them two miles, found a large rock water-hole, but in an almost

inaccessible spot. While I was examining the cliffs near, to find a place

where we could get the horses up, Tommy heard a cooey, and after

answering it a good many times, we were surprised to see two natives

walking up towards us, unarmed. I approached and met them; they did not

appear at all frightened, and at once began to eat the damper I gave

them. We could not understand anything they said. I beckoned them to come

along with us, which they at once did, and followed so closely after me

as to tramp on my spurs. They pointed to water further ahead. After

walking about a mile, four more natives were seen running after us, who,

on joining, made a great noise, singing, and appearing very pleased.

Shortly afterwards two more followed, making seven in all; all entirely

naked, and every one circumcised. We found the water alluded to on the

top of the cliffs, but, it being too late to get the horses up, we turned

off to the southward half a mile, and camped on a small grassy flat,

without water for the horses. The seven natives slept at our fire. We

gave them as much damper as they could eat. They had not the least

particle of clothing, and made pillows of each other's bodies, and

resembled pigs more than human beings.

25th.

The horses began to stray towards morning, and at 3 a.m. I roused Billy

and brought them back. After saddling up, went to the cliffs, and with

two hours' hard work in making a path and leading up the horses (two of

which fell backwards), we managed to gain the summit. The seven natives

accompanied us, and giving one of them the bag containing my rug to carry

over to the water, I was surprised to see him trotting off with it.

Calling Tommy, we soon overtook him and made him carry it back to the

party. After giving our horses as much as they required from the fine

water-holes, I motioned five of the natives to leave us and two to

accompany us, which they soon understood, and appeared satisfied.

Travelling in an East-North-East direction for twenty-one miles, over

rich grassy table-land plains, thinly wooded, we camped on a very grassy

spot, without water for our horses. By meridian altitude of Arcturus,

camp is in latitude 31 degrees 52 minutes 30 seconds south, and longitude

126 degrees 53 minutes East.

26th (Sunday).

Finding the two natives entirely useless, as we could not understand

them, and had to give them part of the little water we carried with us,

motioned them to return, which they appeared very pleased to do. Steering

in an easterly direction for two miles, over downs of most luxuriant

grass, we found a large rock water-hole holding over 100 gallons. It was

Sunday, and all being tired, we camped for the day. In every direction,

open gently undulating country, most beautifully grassed, extended. By

meridian altitude of sun, camp is in latitude 31 degrees 53 minutes

South. Read Divine Service. Tommy and Billy went for a stroll, and

returned bringing with them two small kangaroos, (the first we have shot

since leaving Israelite Bay) which proved a great treat. The natives also

found a fine water-hole about a mile from camp. Gave the horses all the

water at this place. Every appearance of rain.

27th.

Made rather a late start, owing to some of the horses straying. Steered

in an East-North-East direction, and at ten miles found a small

waterhole, and at twenty-one miles another, both of which we gave our

horses, and at twenty-four miles camped on a grassy spot, without water

for our horses. For the first fifteen miles grassy, gently undulating,

splendid feeding country extended in every direction, after which there

was a slight falling off, scrubby at intervals. By meridian altitude of

Arcturus, camp was in latitude 31 degrees 46 minutes 43 seconds South,

and longitude 127 degrees 17 minutes East.

28th.

Had some difficulty in collecting the horses, and made a late start,

steering in about an East-North-East direction for the first five miles,

over very grassy flats, etc., when it became more dense and scrubby until

twenty miles, after which it improved a little. At twenty-four miles we

camped on a grassy rise, without water, in south latitude 31 degrees 41

minutes, and longitude 127 degrees 40 minutes East. Our horses appeared

distressed for want of water, the weather being very warm.

HEAVY MARCHING.

29th.

Had to go back five miles to get the horses this morning. After saddling

up, travelled in about an easterly direction for twenty-four miles, and

camped on a grassy rise, close to a small rock water-hole. During the

day, found in small rock-holes sufficient to give each horse about three

gallons. The country was generally very grassy, although in some places

rather thickly wooded. McLarty was very foot-sore from heavy and long

walking. By meridian altitude of Arcturus, camp is in latitude 31 degrees

45 minutes South, and longitude 128 degrees 2 minutes East.

30th.

Hearing the horses make off, I roused Billy and brought them back; they

had gone two miles. Packed up, and steering in an east direction over

generally very grassy country with occasional mallee thickets, for about

twenty-two miles, we came to a splendidly-grassed rise, and found a fine

rock water-hole on it, containing about 100 gallons, which our horses

soon finished being fearfully in want, the day being very warm. We are

now only thirty miles from Eucla. For the last two days McLarty has been

so lame that I have not allowed him to walk--his boots hurting his feet.

July 1st.

Made an early start, every one being in high spirits, as I told them they

should see the sea and Eucla to-day. Travelling about east over most

beautifully-grassed country, at five miles found a large water-hole,

holding 100 gallons; but our horses, not being thirsty, did not drink

much. This is the first rock water-hole we have passed without finishing

since we left Point Culver. After ten miles reached the cliffs, or

Hampton Range, and had a splendid view of the Roe Plains, Wilson's Bluff

looming in the distance, bearing North 77 degrees 30 minutes East

magnetic.

Descending the cliffs with difficulty, we followed along the foot of

them, which was beautifully grassed, and, after travelling twelve miles,

beheld the Eucla sand-hills. On my pointing them out, every heart was

full of joy, and, being away some distance, I heard the long and

continued hurrahs from the party! Eucla was all the conversation! I never

before remember witnessing such joy as was evinced on this occasion by

all the party. After travelling five miles further we camped close to the

cliffs, at a small water-hole, Wilson's Bluff bearing North 85 degrees

East magnetic, and the Delissier sand-hills North 90 degrees East

magnetic. We might have reached Eucla this evening, but I preferred doing

so to-morrow, when we could have the day before us to choose camp. We are

now again in safety, Eucla being only seven miles distant, after having

travelled 166 miles without finding permanent water--in fact, over 300

miles with only one place where we procured permanent water, namely, in

longitude 126 degrees 24 minutes East. I trust we all recognized with

sincerity and thankfulness the guiding and protecting Father who had

brought us through in safety. By observation, the camp was in latitude 31

degrees 42 minutes South.

EUCLA REACHED.

2nd.

Made an early start and steered straight for the anchorage, distant about

five miles, having first ascended the range to have a view of the

country, which was very extensive. Far as the eye could reach to the

westward the Roe Plains and Hampton Range were visible; while to the

eastward lay Wilson's Bluff and the Delissier sand-hills; and three miles

west of them we were delighted to behold the good schooner Adur, riding

safely at anchor in Eucla harbour, which formed by no means the least

pleasing feature of the scene to our little band of weary travellers.

Made at once for the vessel, and, on reaching her, found all well and

glad to see us. She was anchored between the Red and Black Beacons. The

latter had been blown down, but shall be re-erected. There being no water

at the anchorage, moved on to the Delissier sand-hills, where we found

water by digging two and a half feet from the surface. Camped on west

side of the sand-hills. Landed barley, etc., from the boat. There was

good feed for the horses under the Hampton Range, about a mile and a half

distant.

The next day was Sunday. The crew of the Adur came ashore and dined with

us, and, as usual, I read Divine Service. On the following morning I went

aboard the schooner and examined the log-book and charts. We painted the

Red and Black Beacons, and Mr. Adams having trimmed up a spar, we erected

a flagstaff thirty-four feet high. I occupied myself the next day with

preparing a report to be sent to the Colonial Secretary. My brother went

off to the boat and brought ashore the things we required. We were busy

on the following days packing up and shipping things not required for the

trip to Adelaide, and I gave the master of the Adur instructions to sail

with all despatch for Fremantle.

The following report, which I sent back by the Adur, describes the

progress then made with somewhat more detail than in my Journal:--

Port Eucla, 7th July, 1870.

SIR,

It is with much pleasure I have the honour to report, for the information

of his Excellency the Governor, the safe arrival here of the expedition

entrusted to my guidance, as also the meeting of the schooner Adur.

Leaving Esperance Bay on the 9th of May, we travelled in an easterly

direction, over plains generally poorly grassed, to Israelite Bay

(situated in latitude 33 degrees 36 minutes 51 seconds South, and

longitude 123 degrees 48 minutes East), which we reached on the 18th May,

and met the Adur, according to instructions issued to the master. Here we

recruited our horses and had them re-shod, put the pack-saddles in good

order, packed provisions, etc., and gave the master of the Adur very

strict and detailed instructions to proceed to Eucla Harbour, and await

my arrival until the 2nd of September, when, if I did not reach there, he

was to bury provisions under the Black Beacon and sail for Fremantle, via

Israelite and Esperance Bays. Everything being in readiness, on the 30th

of May we left Israelite Bay en route for Eucla, carrying with us three

months' provisions. Keeping near the coast for sixty miles, having taken

a flying trip inland on my way, we reached the sand-patches a little to

the west of Point Culver, in latitude 32 degrees 55 minutes 34 seconds

South, and longitude 124 degrees 25 minutes East, on the 2nd of June.

On the 3rd went on a flying trip to the North-East, returning on the 4th

along the cliffs and Point Culver. I found the country entirely destitute

of permanent water, but, after leaving the coast a few miles, to be, in

places, beautifully grassed. On the coast near the cliffs it was very

rocky, and there was neither feed nor water. Finding there was no chance

of permanent water being found, that the only water in the country was in

small rocky holes--and those very scarce indeed--and the feed being very

bad at Point Culver, I determined, after very mature consideration, to

attempt at all hazards to reach the water shown on Mr. Eyre's track in

longitude 126 degrees 24 minutes East, or 140 miles distant.

In accordance with these arrangements, on the 7th day of June started on

our journey, carrying over thirty gallons of water on three of our riding

horses, and taking it in turns walking. Travelled about North-East for

four days, which brought us to latitude 32 degrees 11 minutes South, and

longitude 125 degrees 37 minutes East, finding, during that time, in

rocky holes, sufficient water to give each horse two gallons. On the

fifth day we were more fortunate, and were able to give them each two

gallons more, and on the sixth day (the 12th June, Sunday) found a large

rock hole containing sufficient to give them five gallons each, which

placed us in safety, as the water in longitude 126 degrees 24 minutes

East was only thirty-two miles distant. Continuing, we reached the water

on Tuesday, June 14th, and by observation found it to be in latitude 32

degrees 14 minutes 50 seconds South, and longitude 126 degrees 24 minutes

East, the variation of the compass being about 1 degree 6 minutes

easterly.

The country passed over between Point Culver and longitude 126 degrees 24

minutes East, was in many places beautifully grassed, level, without the

slightest undulation, about 300 feet above the sea, and not very thickly

wood. It improves to the northward, being clearer and more grassy, and

the horizon to the north, in every place where I could get an extensive

view, was as uniform and well-defined as that of the sea. On the route

from Point Culver to longitude 126 degrees 24 minutes East, we were from

twenty to twenty-five miles from the sea.

Recruiting ourselves and horses till the 30th, I took a flying trip to

the northward. For the first twelve miles from the sea was through a

dense and almost impenetrable scrub, when we reached the cliffs, and

after ascending them we came into the same description of level country

that we travelled over from Point Culver, save that this was more open

and grassy, and became still clearer as we proceeded north, until, at our

farthest point north, in latitude 31 degrees 33 minutes South, and

longitude 126 degrees 33 minutes East, scarcely a tree was visible, and

vast plains of grass and saltbush extended as far as the eye could reach

in every direction. We found a little water for our horses in rock holes.

Returning, we reached camp on June 22nd. On the 23rd we were engaged

making preparations for a start for Eucla. In looking round camp, Tommy

Windich found the shoulder-blade of a horse and two small pieces of

leather belonging to a packsaddle. The shoulder-blade is no doubt the

remains of the horse Mr. Eyre was obliged to kill for food at this spot.

On June 24th started for Eucla, carrying, as before, over thirty gallons

of water, and walking in turns. On the 25th found on the top of the

cliffs a large rock hole, containing sufficient water to give the horses

as much as they required, and on the 26th were equally fortunate. From

the 26th to the 30th we met with scarcely any water, and our horses

appeared very distressed, more so as the weather was very warm. On the

evening of the 30th, however, we were again fortunate enough to find a

water-hole containing sufficient to give them six gallons each, and were

again in safety, Eucla water being only thirty miles distant. On the

morning of the 1st day of July we reached the cliffs, or Hampton Range

(these cliffs recede from the sea in longitude 126 degrees 12 minutes

East, and run along at the average distance of twelve or fifteen miles

from the sea until they join it again at Wilson's Bluff, in longitude 129

degrees East. They are very steep and rough, and water may generally be

found in rock holes in the gorges. I, however, wished to keep further

inland, and therefore did not follow them), and shortly afterwards we

beheld the Wilson's Bluff and the Eucla sand-hills. Camped for the night

near the Hampton Range, about five miles from Eucla Harbour, and on the

2nd July, on nearing the anchorage, discovered the schooner Adur lying

safely at anchor, which proved by no means the least pleasing feature to

our little band of weary travellers. Camped on west side of Delissier

sand-hills, and found water by digging.

The country passed over between longitude 126 degrees 24 minutes East, as

a grazing country, far surpasses anything I have ever seen. There is

nothing in the settled portions of Western Australia equal to it, either

in extent or quality; but the absence of permanent water is the great

drawback, and I do not think water would be procured by sinking, except

at great depths, as the country is at least three hundred feet above the

sea, and there is nothing to indicate water being within an easy depth

from the surface. The country is very level, with scarcely any

undulation, and becomes clearer as you proceed northward.

Since leaving Cape Arid I have not seen a gully or watercourse of any

description--a distance of 400 miles.

The route from longitude 126 degrees 24 minutes East to Eucla was

generally about thirty miles from the sea.

The natives met with appeared friendly and harmless; they are entirely

destitute of clothing, and I think not very numerous.

Very little game exists along the route; a few kangaroos were seen, but

no emus--an almost certain sign, I believe, of the scarcity of water.

The health of the party has been excellent; and I cannot speak too highly

of the manner in which each member of the expedition has conducted

himself, under circumstances often of privation and difficulty.

All our horses are also in splendid condition; and when I reflect how

great were the sufferings of the only other Europeans who traversed this

route, I cannot but thank Almighty God who has guarded and guided us in

safety through such a waterless region, without the loss of even a single

horse.

I am afraid I shall not be able to get far inland northward, unless we

are favoured with rain. We have not had any rain since the end of April,

and on that account our difficulties have been far greater than if it had

been an ordinary wet season.

I intend despatching the Adur for Fremantle to-morrow. The charter-party

has been carried out entirely to my satisfaction. With the assistance of

the crew of the Adur I have repainted the Red and Black Beacons. The

latter had been blown down; we, however, re-erected it firmly again. I

have also erected a flagstaff, thirty feet high, near camp on west side

of Delissier sand-hills, with a copper-plate nailed on it, with its

position, my name, and that of the colony engraved on it.

We are now within 140 miles from the nearest Adelaide station. I will

write to you as soon as I reach there. It will probably be a month from

this date.

Trusting that the foregoing brief account of my proceedings, as leader of

the expedition entrusted to my guidance, may meet with the approval of

his Excellency the Governor,

I have, etc.,

JOHN FORREST,

Leader of Expedition to Eucla and Adelaide.

The Honourable the Colonial Secretary,

Perth, W.A.

We had now accomplished rather more than half the distance between Perth

and Adelaide, but there was still a gap of 140 miles to be bridged over.

We bade good-bye to our friends on board the Adur, and were now thrown

entirely on our own resources. I resume the extracts from my Journal:--

LOOKING FOR WATER.

July 8th.

Started in company with my brother and Billy, having three riding horses

and a pack horse, to penetrate the country to the northward. Travelled in

a northerly direction for about twenty-seven miles, over plains generally

well grassed, and then bivouacked. From the camp only plains were in

sight, not a tree visible. Did not meet with a drop of water on our way,

and, having brought none, we had to do without it. This season is too dry

to attempt to cross these vast grassy plains, and I shall return to camp

to-morrow--the attempt to get inland without rain only exhausting

ourselves and horses to no purpose.

9th.

After collecting the horses, which had strayed back on the tracks, we

steered in a South-South-West direction, and reached camp a little after

sundown. Did not find any water, except about half a gallon, during the

two days, and, the weather being warm, the horses were in a very

exhausted state when they reached camp. Found the Adur had left yesterday

afternoon.

10th (Sunday).

Rested at Eucla. Read Divine Service.

11th.

Osborn busy with the shoeing. Went with Billy to Wilson's Bluff, and saw

the boundary-post between South and Western Australia, placed by

Lieutenant Douglas. Returned at sundown.

12th.

Erected the flagstaff with the Union Jack flying, and nailed a copper

plate to the staff, with the following engraved on it:--

WESTERN AUSTRALIA. ERECTED BY

J. FORREST, JULY 12TH, 1870.

From the flagstaff, Wilson's Bluff bore North 70 degrees 15 minutes East

magnetic, and the Black Beacon North 246 degrees 20 minutes East

magnetic, and it is situated in latitude 31 degrees 41 minutes 50 seconds

South.

13th.

There was a total eclipse of the moon in the morning. All busy preparing

for a start for the Head of the Bight to-morrow. Buried a cask eight feet

west of flagstaff, containing 100 pounds flour, 130 pounds barley, 16 new

sets of horse-shoes, shoeing nails, etc. Nailed a plate on flagstaff,

with DIG 8 FEET WEST on it. Took a ride to the Black and Red Beacons, to

examine country round Eucla.

14th.

Bidding farewell to Eucla and the Union Jack, which we left on the

flagstaff, we started for the Head of the Bight, carrying over thirty

gallons of water with us, and walking in turns. Ascended the cliffs

without difficulty, and passed the boundary of the two colonies; then

left the sea, and, steering in an East-North-East and North-East

direction until a little after dark, camped on a grassy piece of country,

without water for our horses. Distance travelled about twenty-six miles.

By observation camp is in latitude 31 degrees 30 minutes 42 seconds

South, and longitude 129 degrees 20 minutes East.

SUFFERING FROM THIRST.

15th.

Started at daylight, and travelled East-North-East for seven miles, when

we bore East over generally level country, well grassed, but entirely

destitute of water. We camped at sundown on a grassy rise, without water

for our horses. Distance travelled, thirty-four miles. The horses have

not had any water for two days, and show signs of distress. Intend

starting before daylight, as there is a good moon.

16th.

At 1 a.m. went with Billy to bring back the horses, which had again made

off. After returning, saddled up, and at 4.50 a.m. got under way,

steering a little to the south of east in order to make the cliffs, as

there might be water in rock holes near them. At eighteen miles came to

the sea, but could find no water. At thirty miles saw a pile of stones,

and at thirty-three miles saw a staked survey line. Camped on a grassy

piece of country, two miles from the sea. This is the third day without a

drop of water for the horses, which are in a frightful state. Gave them

each four quarts from our water-drums, and I hope, by leaving a little

after midnight, to reach the Head of the Bight to-morrow evening, as it

is now only forty miles distant. By observation, camp is in latitude 31

degrees 32 minutes 27 seconds South, and longitude 130 degrees 30 minutes

East.

17th.

Was obliged to get up twice to bring back the horses, and at four o'clock

made a start. The horses were in a very exhausted state; some having

difficulty to keep up. About noon I could descry the land turning to the

southward, and saw, with great pleasure, we were fast approaching the

Head of the Great Australian Bight. Reached the sand-patches at the

extreme Head of the Bight just as the sun was setting, and found

abundance of water by digging two feet deep in the sand. Gave the horses

as much as I considered it safe for them to have at one time. I have

never seen horses in such a state before, and hope never to do so again.

The horses, which four days ago were strong and in good condition, now

appeared only skeletons, eyes sunk, nostrils dilated, and thoroughly

exhausted. Since leaving Eucla to getting water at this spot, a period of

nearly ninety hours, they had only been allowed one gallon of water each,

which was given them from our water-drums. It is wonderful how well they

performed this journey; had they not started in good condition, they

never could have done it. We all felt very tired. During the last sixty

hours I have only had about five hours' sleep, and have been continually

in a great state of anxiety--besides which, all have had to walk a great

deal.

SIGNS OF CIVILIZATION.

18th.

This is a great day in my journal and journey. After collecting the

horses we followed along the beach half a mile, when I struck North for

Peelunabie well, and at half a mile struck a cart track from Fowler's Bay

to Peelunabie. After following it one mile and a quarter, came to the

well and old sheep-yards, and camped. Found better water in the

sand-hills than in the well. There is a board nailed on a pole directing

to the best water, with the following engraved on it:

G. Mackie, April 5th, 1865, Water [finger pointing right] 120 yards.

Upon sighting the road this morning, which I had told them we should do,

a loud and continued hurrahing came from all the party, who were

overjoyed to behold signs of civilization again; while Billy, who was in

advance with me, and whom I had told to look out, as he would see a road

directly, which he immediately did, began giving me great praise for

bringing them safely through such a long journey. I certainly felt very

pleased and relieved from anxiety, and, on reviewing the long line of

march we had performed through an uncivilized country, was very sensible

of that protecting Providence which had guided us safely through the

undertaking.

19th.

Steered in an easterly direction along an old track towards Wearing's

well, as I intend going inland, instead of along the coast to Fowler's

Bay. Travelled for sixteen miles through a barren and thickly-wooded

country, sand-hills, etc. We camped on a small grassy flat, without

water. Being now in the settled districts I gave over keeping watch,

which we had regularly done since the 9th of May.

20th.

Continuing for fifteen miles, we reached a deserted well called

Wearing's; it was about 200 feet deep, and after joining all the

tether-ropes, girths, bridle reins, halters, etc., we managed to get up a

bucket full, but after all our trouble it was quite salt. We therefore

continued our journey South-East for Fowler's Bay, and at four miles saw

some fresh sheep tracks, and shortly afterwards saw the shepherd, named

Jack, who was very talkative. He told us he had been to Swan River, and

thought it was quite as good as this place. He also said there was a well

of good water about eight miles further on. This was a pleasant surprise,

the nearest well on my chart being sixteen miles distant: this was a new

well sunk since the survey. We therefore pushed on, although our horses

were very tired, and reached the well, where there was a substantial

stone hut; met the shepherd, whose name was Robinson. He said he knew who

we were, having heard about three months ago that we might be expected

this way. He was as kind and obliging as it was possible to be in his

circumstances. Had a difficulty in drawing water for the horses, the well

being nearly 200 feet deep, and there was not a bite for the poor

creatures to eat, except a few miles off. As it was now an hour after

dark, I turned them out, and left them to do the best they could. The old

shepherd kept talking most of the night, and said we looked more like

people just come from Fowler's Bay than having come overland from Western

Australia.

21st.

The horses strayed off in many directions during the night, and they were

not all collected till after noon, when we continued our journey for four

miles, and finding a small piece of feed, we camped without water for the

horses. Many of the horses were in a very critical state, and one was

completely knocked up.

22nd.

Again were delayed by the rambling of the horses until nearly noon, when

we travelled along the road towards Fowler's Bay. After ten miles,

watered the horses at a well called Waltabby, and two miles further on

camped, with scarcely any feed for the horses. One of the horses

completely gave in to-day, and we had great difficulty in getting him to

camp. By meridian altitude of Arcturus, camp is in latitude 31 degrees 34

minutes 28 seconds South.

REACHING A STATION.

23rd.

Although the feed was short, our horses did not stray, and after saddling

up we continued along road for two and a half miles, and reached Colona,

the head station of Degraves and Co., of Victoria, where we were most

hospitably received by Mr. Maiden, the manager. At his desire camped, and

turned out the horses on a piece of feed kept for his horses, and intend

remaining over Sunday. We accepted his kind invitation to make ourselves

his guests while we remained. He informed me that the South Australian

Government had instructed the mounted trooper at Fowler's Bay to proceed

to the Head of the Bight and give us every information and assistance in

his power. I am glad we have saved him the journey.

24th.

Rested at Colona. In the afternoon was rather surprised at the arrival of

Police-trooper Richards and party, who were on their way to try and find

out our whereabouts. He handed me a circular for perusal, stating that

anything I required would be paid for by the South Australian Government.

25th.

Left Colona, accompanied by Police-trooper Richards and party. Mr. Maiden

also accompanied us a few miles, when he returned, bearing with him my

sincere thanks for his kindness to myself and party. After travelling

eleven miles, we reached the hospitable residence of Messrs. Heathcote

and Mathers, where we stayed to dinner, and, although pressed to stay,

pushed on seven miles, and camped at a well called Pintumbra.

26th.

Rested at Pintumbra, as there was good feed for our tired and hungry

horses. Police-trooper Richards and party also remained with us.

AT FOWLERS BAY.

27th.

Travelled towards Fowler's Bay, and at ten miles reached Yallata, the

residence of Mr. Armstrong, where we had dinner, and afterwards reached

Fowler's Bay and put up at the Police-station.

28th to 31st.

Remained at Fowler's Bay, recruiting ourselves and horses, and wrote the

following letters to the Honourable the Colonial Secretary, Western

Australia, and to his Excellency Sir James Fergusson, Governor of South

Australia:--

Fowler's Bay, 29th July, 1870.

SIR,

I have the honour to report, for the information of his Excellency the

Governor, the safe arrival here of the exploring expedition under my

command, and beg to give you a brief outline of our proceedings since the

departure of the schooner Adur from Port Eucla.

On the 8th of July, started on a flying trip north from Eucla, with

fourteen days' provisions, but was unable to penetrate more than thirty

miles (which was over clear open plains of grass, etc., scarcely a tree

visible), on account of the scarcity of water, not meeting with a drop of

water on the whole journey. Returned to Eucla on the 9th, and, as summer

had apparently set in, and there appeared no likelihood of rain, I

decided to at once start for Fowler's Bay and Adelaide.

On the 14th, therefore, we started, carrying with us about thirty gallons

of water. After great privation to our horses, and not meeting with a

drop of water for 135 miles, by travelling day and night we reached the

Head of the Bight on the evening of the 17th July, and found abundance of

water by digging in the sand-hills.

Our horses had been ninety hours without a drop of water, and many of us

were very weary from long marching without sleep. Many of the horses

could scarcely walk, and a few were delirious; they, however, all managed

to carry their loads. They have not, however, yet recovered, but with a

few days' rest I hope to see them well again. There being very little

feed at the Head of the Bight we continued our journey, and on the 23rd

July reached Colona (head station of Degraves and Co.), where we met

Police-trooper Richards, who was on his way to the Head of the Bight to

meet us, in accordance with instructions from his Excellency Sir James

Fergusson.

Leaving Colona on the 25th, we reached Fowler's Bay on the 27th July, all

well.

We are now about 600 miles from Adelaide. Our route will be through the

Gawler Ranges, skirting the south end of Lake Gairdner, and thence to

Port Augusta and Adelaide, which we shall probably reach in five or six

weeks from date.

By this mail I have written to his Excellency Sir James Fergusson,

apprising him of our safe arrival, as well as giving him a brief account

of our journey. According to present arrangements we shall, at latest, be

in Perth by the October mail.

Trusting that these proceedings may meet with the approval of his

Excellency the Governor, I have, etc.,

JOHN FORREST,

Leader of Expedition to Eucla and Adelaide.

The Honourable the Colonial Secretary, Perth, Western Australia.

Fowler's Bay, 29th July, 1870.

SIR,

In accordance with my instructions from the Government of Western

Australia, I have the honour to report, for the information of his

Excellency Sir James Fergusson, that the exploring expedition organized

by that Government and placed under my command, has reached this place in

safety.

With his Excellency's permission, I will give a brief account of our

journey since leaving Perth.

OFFICIAL REPORT.

Leaving Perth on the 30th March, we reached Esperance Bay, the station of

the Messrs. Dempster, on the 25th April, and remained to recruit our

horses until the 9th May, when we continued in an easterly direction for

about 130 miles, and reached Israelite Bay, in latitude 33 degrees 37

minutes South and longitude 123 degrees 48 minutes East, where we met a

coasting vessel with our supplies, etc.

Left Israelite Bay on May 30th, and reached the water shown on Mr. Eyre's

track in longitude 126 degrees 24 minutes East on the 14th June,

depending wholly on rock water-holes during the journey. Here we

recruited and made a trip inland for fifty miles, finding the country to

be very clear and well grassed, but entirely destitute of permanent

water.

Leaving longitude 126 degrees 24 minutes East on 24th June, we reached

Eucla on the 2nd July, depending again solely on rock water-holes, our

horses often being in great want of water. At Eucla we again met the

coaster with supplies, etc.

After despatching the coaster on her return to Swan River, attempted to

get inland north of Eucla; but, owing to the scarcity of water and the

dryness of the season, was unable to get more than thirty miles inland. I

therefore concluded to continue the journey towards Adelaide, and

accordingly left Eucla on July 14th, reaching the Head of the Great

Australian Bight on the evening of the 17th, after a very hard and

fatiguing journey, without a drop of water for our horses for ninety

hours, in which time we travelled 138 miles.

Men and horses were in a very weary state when we reached the water,

which we found by digging in the sand-hills at the extreme Head of the

Bight. Continuing, we reached Fowler's Bay on the 27th July.

From longitude 124 degrees 25 minutes East to Port Eucla, in longitude

128 degrees 53 minutes East, our route was from twenty to thirty miles

from the sea, and in the whole of that distance we only procured

permanent water in one spot, namely that shown on Mr. Eyre's track in

longitude 126 degrees 24 minutes East.

On our route we passed over many millions of acres of grassy country, but

I am sorry to say I believe entirely destitute of permanent water. The

natives met with were friendly, but to us altogether unintelligible. The

health of my party has been excellent, and we have reached this place

without losing a single horse.

Before reaching Fowler's Bay, we were met by Police-trooper Richards, who

was on his way to meet us, in accordance with instructions from his

Excellency. I am truly thankful for this, as he has been of great service

to us, and has been very attentive to our requirements. I hope to reach

Adelaide in five weeks from date. My route will be through the Gawler

Ranges to Port Augusta, and thence to Adelaide.

Trusting that this short account of our journey may not be wholly

uninteresting to his Excellency, I have, etc.,

JOHN FORREST,

Leader of Expedition from Western Australia.

The Private Secretary, Government House, Adelaide, South Australia.

August 1st.

Left Fowler's Bay, accompanied by Police-trooper Richards, en route for

Port Augusta. Travelled fourteen miles in about an East-North-East

direction and camped. Rained lightly this evening.

2nd.

Reached Pinong station. Distance travelled, thirty miles. Passed several

huts and wells. The whole journey was over most beautifully-grassed

country.

3rd.

Left Pinong, and, after travelling thirty miles, reached a spot called

Athena; then camped, leaving Charra station about seven miles to the

southward. Passed a few huts and wells during the day.

4th.

At seventeen miles reached Denial Bay, when we turned off towards Hosken

and Broadbent's stations, and at thirteen miles further camped on a very

grassy rise, with two small rock water-holes, called Merking. By meridian

altitude of a Lyrae (Vega), found it to be in latitude 32 degrees 12

minutes 36 seconds South.

PANEY STATION.

5th.

After travelling eight miles, came to a deserted station of Hosken and

Broadbent's, and found abundance of water in a rock water-hole called

Chillandee. As the horses were very tired, and there was splendid feed

for them, we camped here for the remainder of the day.

6th.

Left Chillandee, and after travelling twenty-six miles, passed

Madebuckela, the homestead of Mr. Hosken, where we camped at a deserted

hut, with splendid feed and water for the horses.

7th.

Travelled towards Gawler Ranges for thirteen miles, and camped at a spot

called Conkabeena, from which the ranges were clearly visible.

8th.

Continuing in an easterly direction for twelve miles, we reached

Wollular, a granite hill with plenty of water on the rocks; after which

proceeded due east for twelve miles, through dense thickets and sandy

hills, when we came on a small patch of grassy land and camped, Mount

Centre bearing North 95 degrees East magnetic.

9th.

Continuing towards Mount Centre for eighteen miles, over a succession of

salt lakes and very sandy hills and scrub, we reached a road making a

little farther north, which was followed, and after travelling five miles

came to Narlibby, and camped on most beautiful feed.

10th.

After taking wrong roads and going a good deal out of our way, we reached

Paney station and camped at the police-station.

11th and 12th.

Rested at Paney, as the horses were very tired, and there was splendid

feed for them. Police-trooper Richards intends returning to-morrow to

Fowler's Bay. He has given us every assistance in his power, and deserves

our very sincere thanks for his kindness and attention.

13th to 17th.

Travelling towards Port Augusta, accompanied for half the distance by

Police trooper O'Shanahan, from Paney station.

18th.

Reached Port Augusta. Telegraphed to his Excellency Sir James Fergusson,

informing him of our arrival. Camped five miles from Port Augusta, at a

small township named Stirling.

19th.

Received telegram from his Excellency Sir James Fergusson, congratulating

us on our success. Camped a few miles from Mount Remarkable.

20th.

Passed through Melrose, and on the 23rd reached Clare, where I had the

pleasure of meeting Mr. John Roe, son of the Honourable Captain Roe, our

respected Surveyor-General.

On August 24th reached Riverton, and on the 25th Gawler. On the 26th we

arrived at Salisbury, twelve miles from Adelaide. Through all these towns

we have been most cordially received, and I shall never forget the

attention and kindly welcome received on the journey through South

Australia.

RECEPTION AT ADELAIDE.

On the 27th August we left Salisbury, and for an account of our journey

from there to Adelaide I cannot do better than insert an extract from the

South Australian Register of August 27th, 1870:--

"On Saturday morning the band of explorers from Western Australia, under

the leadership of Mr. Forrest, made their entrance into Adelaide. They

left Salisbury at half-past nine o'clock, and when within a few miles of

the city were met by Inspector Searcy and one or two other members of the

police force. Later on the route they were met by an escort of horsemen,

who had gone out to act as a volunteer escort. At Government House Gate a

crowd of persons assembled, who gave them a hearty cheer as they rode up.

The whole party at once rode up to Government House, where they were

received by his Excellency, who was introduced to all the members of the

expedition, and spent a quarter of an hour in conversation with Mr.

Forrest, and in examining with interest the horses and equipments, which

all showed signs of the long and severe journey performed. Wine having

been handed round, the party withdrew, and were again greeted at

Government Gate by hearty cheers from the crowd, which now numbered

several hundreds. They then proceeded by way of Rundle Street to the

quarters assigned them at the police barracks. The men are to remain at

the barracks, and the officers are to be entertained at the City of

Adelaide Club."

From August 28th to September 12th we remained in Adelaide, having been

most kindly received by all with whom we came in contact. We saw as much

of the country as possible. I disposed of my horses and equipment by

public auction; then left in the steamer Alexandra with the whole of my

party on the 12th, reaching King George's Sound on the 17th at 1 a.m.

Left King George's Sound on the 19th, and arrived in Perth on the 27th,

where we were most cordially welcomed by his Excellency the Governor and

the citizens of Perth, having been absent 182 days.

In the foregoing I have attempted to give a faithful and correct account

of our proceedings, and, in conclusion, beg to make a few remarks

respecting the character and the capabilities of the country travelled

over.

In about longitude 124 degrees East the granite formation ends, at least

on and near the coast; but from longitude 124 degrees to the Head of the

Bight, a distance of over 400 miles, there is no change in the formation,

being limestone and high table land the whole distance.

The portion most suited for settlement is, I believe, between longitude

126 degrees 12 minutes East and longitude 129 degrees East, near Eucla

harbour, or, in other words, the country to the north of the Hampton

Range--the country north of the range being most beautifully grassed, and

I believe abundance of water could be procured anywhere under the range

by sinking twenty or thirty feet. There is also under the same range a

narrow strip of fine grassy country for the whole length of the range,

namely about 160 miles. I have every confidence that, should the country

be settled, it would prove a remunerative speculation, and, if water can

be procured on the table land, would be the finest pastoral district of

Western Australia.

CONCLUSION.

Before I conclude, I have the pleasing duty to record my entire

appreciation of every member of the party. I need not particularize, as

one and all had the interest and welfare of the expedition at heart, and

on no occasion uttered a single murmur.

Finally, sir, my best and most sincere thanks are due to his Excellency

Governor Weld for the very efficient manner in which the expedition was

equipped. It is chiefly owing to the great zeal and desire of his

Excellency that I should have everything necessary that the success of

the enterprise is attributable.

I have, etc.,

JOHN FORREST,

Leader of Expedition.

The Honourable F.P. Barlee, Esquire,

Colonial Secretary, Western Australia.