CHAPTER 2.

FIRST EXPEDITION IN SEARCH OF LEICHARDT.

Statements made by the Natives.

An Expedition prepared.

Leader appointed.

Official Instructions.

The Journal.

Early in 1869, Dr. Von Mueller, of the Melbourne Botanic Gardens, a

botanist of high attainments, proposed to the Government of Western

Australia that an expedition should be undertaken from the colony for the

purpose of ascertaining, if possible, the fate of the lost explorer,

Leichardt. Reports had reached Perth of natives met with in the eastern

districts, who had stated that, about twenty years before (a date

corresponding with that of the last authentic intelligence received from

Leichardt), a party of white men had been murdered. This tale was

repeated, but perhaps would not have made much impression if a gentleman,

Mr. J.H. Monger, when on a trip eastward in search of sheep-runs, had not

been told by his native guide that he had been to the very spot where the

murder was committed, and had seen the remains of the white men. His

story was very circumstantial; he described the spot, which, he said, was

near a large lake, so large that it looked like the sea, and that the

white men were attacked and killed while making a damper--bread made of

flour mixed with water, and cooked on hot ashes. So certain was he as to

the exact locality, that he offered to conduct a party to the place.

This appeared like a trustworthy confirmation of the reports which had

reached the colony, and created a great impression, so that the

Government felt it a duty incumbent on them to make an effort to

ascertain the truth of this statement, and Dr. Von Mueller's offer to

lead an expedition was accepted.

I was then, as now, an officer of the Survey Department, and employed in

a distant part of the colony. I was ordered to repair to headquarters, to

confer with the authorities on the subject, and was offered the

appointment of second in command and navigator. This was a proposition

quite in accordance with my tastes, for I had long felt a deep interest

in the subject of Australian exploration, and ardently desired to take my

share in the work. I at once arranged the equipment of the expedition,

but, while so engaged, the mail from Melbourne brought a letter from Dr.

Von Mueller, to the effect that his other engagements would not permit

him to take the lead as proposed, and I was appointed to take his place

in the expedition.

OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS.

The Honourable Captain Roe, R.N., the Surveyor-General, who had himself

been a great explorer, undertook the preparation of a set of Instructions

for my guidance; and they so accurately describe the objects of the

journey, and the best modes of carrying them out, that I transcribe the

official letter:--

Survey Office, Perth,

13th April, 1869.

Sir,

His Excellency the Governor having been pleased to appoint you to lead an

expedition into the interior of Western Australia for the purpose of

searching for the remains of certain white men reported by the natives to

have been killed by the aborigines some years ago, many miles beyond the

limits of our settled country, and it being deemed probable that the

white men referred to formed part of an exploring party under the command

of Dr. Leichardt, endeavouring to penetrate overland from Victoria to

this colony several years ago, I have been directed to furnish the

following instructions for your guidance on this interesting service, and

for enabling you to carry out the wishes of the Government in connexion

therewith.

2. Your party will consist of six persons in the whole, well armed, and

made up of Mr. George Monger as second in command, Mr. Malcolm Hamersley

as third in command, a farrier blacksmith to be hired at Newcastle, and

two well-known and reliable natives, Tommy Windich and Jemmy, who have

already acquired considerable experience under former explorers.

3. An agreement to serve on the expedition in the above capacities has

been prepared, and should be signed by each European member of the party

previous to starting.

4. A saddle-horse has been provided for each member of the party,

together with ---- pack-horses to transport such portions of the outfit

as cannot be carried by the former. A three-horsed cart will also

accompany the expedition as far as may be found practicable through the

unsettled country, and thereby relieve the pack-horses as much as

possible.

5. All preparations for the journey being now complete, it is desirable

that you should lose no time in starting, so as to arrive at the

commencement of the unexplored country by the end of the present month,

or beginning of the expected winter rains. It has been, however, already

ascertained from native information that a considerable quantity of rain

has recently fallen over the regions to be explored, and that no

impediment may be anticipated from a scarcity of water there.

6. The route to be followed might advantageously commence at Newcastle,

where some of your party and several of your horses are to be picked up,

and thence proceed north-easterly to Goomaling, and 100 miles further in

the same general direction, passing eastward to Mounts Chunbaren and

Kenneth of Mr. Austin's, to the eastern farthest of that explorer, in 119

degrees East and 28 3/4 degrees South. Thence the general north-easterly

route of the expedition must be governed by the information afforded by

your native guides as to the locality in which they have reported the

remains of white men are to be found.

7. On arriving at that spot, the greatest care is to be taken to bring

away all such remains as may be discovered by a diligent search of the

neighbourhood. By friendly and judicious treatment of the local natives,

it is also probable that several articles of European manufacture which

are said to be still in their possession might be bartered from them, and

serve towards identifying their former owners. The prospect of obtaining

from the natives, at this remote date, anything like a journal,

note-book, or map, would indeed be small; but the greatest interest would

be attached to the smallest scrap of written or printed paper, however

much defaced, if only covered with legible characters. A more promising

mode by which the former presence of European explorers on the spot might

be detected is the marks which are generally made on the trees by

travellers to record the number or reference to a halting-place, or the

initials of some of the party. Thus the letter L has in several instances

been found by searching parties to have been legibly cut on trees in the

interior of the eastern colonies, and in localities supposed to have been

visited by the eminent explorer alluded to. It is needless to point out

that metal articles, such as axes, tomahawks, gun and pistol barrels,

iron-work of pack-saddles, and such like, would be far more likely to

have survived through the lapse of years than articles of a more

perishable nature.

8. After exhausting all conceivable means of obtaining information on the

spot, and from the nature of surrounding country, an attempt should be

made to follow back on the track of the unfortunate deceased, which is

said to have been from the eastward and towards the settled part of this

colony. Here a close and minute scrutiny of the trees might prove of

great value in clearing up existing doubts, especially at and about any

water-holes and springs near which explorers would be likely to bivouac.

9. After completing an exhaustive research and inquiry into this

interesting and important part of your duties, the remainder of the time

that may be at your disposal, with reference to your remaining stock of

provisions, should be employed in exploring the surrounding country, in

tracing any considerable or smaller stream it may be your good fortune to

discover, and generally in rendering the service entrusted to your

guidance as extensively useful and valuable to this colony as

circumstances may admit.

10. Towards effecting this object, your homeward journey should, if

possible, be over country not previously traversed by the outward route,

or by any former explorers, and should be so regulated as to expose your

party to no unnecessary risk on account of the falling short of supplies.

11. In your intercourse with the aborigines of the interior, many of whom

will have no previous personal knowledge of the white man, I need

scarcely commend to you a policy of kindness and forbearance mixed with

watchfulness and firmness, as their future bearing towards our remote

colonists may be chiefly moulded by early impressions.

12. To render the expedition as extensively useful as possible, I would

urge you, in the interests of science, to make and preserve such

specimens in natural history as may come within the reach of yourself and

party, especially in the departments of botany, geology, and zoology,

which may be greatly enriched by productions of country not yet

traversed.

13. Direct reference to minor objects, and to matters of detail, is

purposely omitted, in full reliance on your judgment and discretion, and

on your personal desire to render the expedition as productive as

possible of benefit to the colony and to science in general.

14. In this spirit I may add that the brief instructions herein given for

your general guidance are by no means intended to fetter your own

judgment in carrying out the main object of the expedition in such other

and different manner as may appear to you likely to lead to beneficial

results. In the belief that such results will be achieved by the energy

and perseverance of yourself and of those who have so nobly volunteered

to join you in the enterprise, and with confident wishes for your

success, in which H.E. largely participates,

I remain, Sir,

Your obedient Servant,

J.S. ROE, Surveyor-General.

John Forrest, Esquire, Leader of Exploring Expedition to the North-East.

Mr. George Monger (brother of the gentleman who gave the information),

who accompanied me as second in command, had previously been on an

expedition to the eastward, and Jemmy Mungaro was the black who said he

had seen the spot where the remains of the white men were. His

persistence in the statement encouraged me to hope that I might be the

first to announce positively the fate of the lost explorer; but I had

then to learn how little dependence can be placed on the testimony of

Australian aborigines.

On the 15th of April, 1869, I began the journey. I was well supplied with

instruments for making observations, so as to ascertain our daily

position. A knowledge of at least the leading principles of the art of

navigation is as necessary to the explorer as to the mariner on the

ocean. Our stock of provisions consisted of 800 pounds of flour, 270

pounds of pork, 135 pounds of sugar, and 17 pounds of tea; and we each

took two suits of clothes.

The party were all in good spirits. For myself I was hopeful of success,

and my white companions shared my feelings. The natives were, as they

generally are, except when food is scarce, or their anger excited, on the

best terms with everybody and everything, and Jemmy Mungaro, so far as

could be judged from his demeanour, might have been the most veracious

guide who ever led a party of white men through difficulties and dangers

on an expedition of discovery.

Day by day I noted down the incidents of the journey, and that Journal I

now submit to the reader.

JOURNAL OF PROCEEDINGS OF AN EXPLORING EXPEDITION IN SEARCH OF THE

REMAINS OF THE LATE DR. LEICHARDT AND PARTY, UNDERTAKEN BY ORDER OF THE

GOVERNMENT OF WESTERN AUSTRALIA, BY JOHN FORREST, GOVERNMENT SURVEYOR.

Sir,

In pursuance of instructions received from you, the exploring party under

my command consisted of the following persons, namely, Mr. George Monger,

as second in command; Mr. Malcolm Hamersley, as third in command;

probation prisoner, David Morgan, as shoeing smith, and two natives

(Tommy Windich and Jemmy Mungaro). The latter native gave Mr. J.H. Monger

the information respecting the murder of white men in the eastward.

Reached Newcastle on the 17th and left on Monday, 19th, with a

three-horse cart and teamster and thirteen horses, making a total of

sixteen horses. Reached Mombekine, which is about sixteen miles

East-North-East from Newcastle.

April 20th.

Continued journey to Goomalling, sixteen miles, which we reached at 1

p.m., and devoted the remainder of the afternoon to weighing and packing

rations, etc., for a final start.

21st.

Leaving Goomalling at 10.30 a.m., we travelled in a northerly direction

for nine miles, and reached Walyamurra Lake; thence about East-North-East

for seven miles, we encamped at a well on north side of Kombekine Lake.

The water was very bad from opossums being drowned in it, and there was

hardly any feed.

22nd.

Hearing from a number of natives that there was no water in the direction

we intended steering, namely, to Mount Churchman, we decided on changing

our course and proceed there via Waddowring, in latitude 31 degrees south

and longitude 118 degrees east. Steering about South-South-East for eight

miles, through dense scrubby thickets, which we had great difficulty in

getting the cart through, we struck the road from Goomalling to

Waddowring, which we followed along about east for eight miles, and

camped at a well called Naaning, with hardly any feed.

23rd.

Mr. George Roe (who had come from Northam to bid us farewell) and my

teamster left us this morning to return to Newcastle. Considerable delay

having occurred in collecting the horses, we did not start till twelve

o'clock, when we steered East-North-East for eight miles over scrubby

sand-plains, and camped at a well called Pingeperring, with very little

feed for our horses.

24th.

Started at 8.50 a.m. and steered about east for seven miles over scrubby,

undulating sand-plains, thence North 50 degrees East magnetic for two

miles, thence North 160 degrees for one mile, and thence about North 80

degrees East magnetic for five miles over scrubby sand-plains. We camped

at a spring called Dwartwollaking at 5 p.m. Barometer 29.45; thermometer

71 degrees.

25th (Sunday).

Did not travel to-day. Took observations for time, and corrected our

watches. Found camp to be in south latitude 31 degrees 10 minutes by

meridian altitude of sun.

26th.

Travelled in about the direction of North 73 degrees East magnetic for

twenty-eight miles. We reached Yarraging, the farthest station to the

eastward, belonging to Messrs. Ward and Adams, where we bivouacked for

the night.

27th.

Bought some rations from Ward and Co., making our supply equal to last

three months on the daily allowance of a pound and a half of flour, half

a pound of pork, a quarter of a pound of sugar, and half an ounce of tea

per man. Being unable to take the cart any further, and wishing to have

the team horses with me, I arranged with Ward and Co. to take it to

Newcastle for 2 pounds. Packed up and left Yarraging with ten pack and

six riding horses, and steering North 320 degrees East magnetic for eight

miles we reached Waddowring springs in south latitude 31 degrees and

longitude 118 degrees East.

28th.

Started this morning with Mr. Monger, Tommy Windich, and Dunbatch (a

native of this locality) in search of water in order to shift the party.

Travelling about north for eleven miles we found a native well, and by

digging it out seven feet we obtained sufficient water for ourselves and

horses. I therefore sent Mr. Monger back with instructions to bring the

party to this spot, called Cartubing. I then proceeded in a northerly

direction, and at two miles passed water in granite rocks at a spot

called Inkanyinning. Shortly afterwards we passed another native well,

called Yammaling, from which we steered towards a spot called

Beebynyinning; but, night setting in, our guide lost his way, and we were

obliged to camp for the night in a thicket without water and very little

feed.

29th.

This morning Dunbatch brought us to Beebynyinning, where we obtained a

little water by digging. After digging a well we returned to Cartubing,

where we met the party and bivouacked on a patch of green feed.

30th.

Shifted the party from Cartubing to Beebynyinning, watering our horses on

the way at Inkanyinning and Yammaling, which was fortunate, as there was

very little water at Beebynyinning.

May 1st.

Steering about North-East for eight miles over grassy country, we reached

and encamped at Danjinning, a small grassy spot, with native well, by

deepening which about ten feet we obtained a plentiful supply of water.

Mr. Austin visited Danjinning in 1854, and we could see the tracks of his

horses distinctly. Barometer 29. Every appearance of rain, which we are

in much want of.

2nd (Sunday).

Rested at Danjinning, which I found to be in south latitude 30 degrees 34

minutes by meridian altitude of the sun. Read Divine Service. Jemmy shot

six gnows and a wurrong to-day.

3rd.

Steering in a northerly direction for sixteen miles, we reached

Yalburnunging, a small grassy spot, with water in a native well, which we

deepened four feet, and procured a plentiful supply. For the first nine

miles our route lay over scrubby sand-plains, after which we came into

dense thickets and stunted gums.

4th.

Steering towards Mount Churchman, or Geelabbing, for about fifteen miles,

we reached a grassy spot called Billeburring, and found water in a native

well, probably permanent. At eight miles we passed a water-hole in some

granite rocks, called Gnaragnunging. Dense acacia and cypress thickets

most of the way.

5th.

Steering in a northerly direction for about twelve miles, we reached

Mount Churchman, or Geelabbing, an immense bare granite hill, and camped,

with plenty of feed and water. At five miles passed a spring called

Coolee. Country very dense and scrubby; no feed in any of the thickets.

From the summit of Mount Churchman, Ningham of Mr. Monger, or Mount

Singleton of Mr. A.C. Gregory, bore North 312 degrees 30 minutes East

magnetic. This evening a party of nine natives (friends of our native

Jemmy) joined us, who state that a long time ago a party of white men and

horses died at a place called Bouincabbajibimar, also that a gun and a

number of other articles are there, and volunteer to accompany us to the

spot.

6th.

Left Mount Churchman in company with the nine natives, and travelled

about North-North-West for ten miles to a small water-hole called

Woodgine, thence in a northerly direction to a branch of Lake Moore,

which we crossed without difficulty, and, following along its north shore

for three miles, we bivouacked at a spring close to the lake called

Cundierring, with splendid feed around the granite rocks.

7th.

Steering in a northerly direction for eleven miles, through dense

thickets of acacia and cypress, we reached some granite rocks with water

on them, called Curroning, and bivouacked. Have fears that the

information received from the natives relates to nine of Mr. Austin's

horses that died from poison at Poison Rock. They now state they are only

horses' bones, and not men's, as first stated.

8th.

Travelling in the direction of North 30 degrees East for about ten miles,

we reached some granite rocks, with a water-hole in them, called

Coorbedar. Passed over very rough, low, quartz hills, covered with acacia

thickets, etc. At four miles passed a water-hole called Yeergolling; at

seven miles a small one called Gnurra; and another at eight miles called

Munnarra.

9th (Sunday).

Rested our horses at Coorbedar. Found camp to be in south latitude 29

degrees 24 minutes 43 seconds by meridian altitudes of the sun and

Regulus, and in longitude 118 degrees 6 minutes East. From a quartz hill

half a mile South-West from Coorbedar, Mount Singleton bore North 268

degrees 15 minutes East. The supply of water from the rock having been

used, I went, in company with Mr. Hamersley, to a spot one mile and a

half South-South-West from Coorbedar, called Dowgooroo, where we dug a

well and procured a little water, to which I intend shifting to-morrow,

as I propose staying in this vicinity for two days, so as to give me time

to visit Warne, the large river spoken of by Jemmy.

10th.

Started this morning in company with Tommy Windich and a native boy (one

of the nine who joined us at Mount Churchman) to examine the locality

called Warne. Steering North 42 degrees East magnetic for about seven

miles, we came to a grassy flat about half a mile wide, with a stream-bed

trending south running through it. The natives state it to be dry in

summer, but at present there is abundance of water, and in wet seasons

the flat must be almost all under water. After following the flat about

seven miles we returned towards camp, about five miles, and bivouacked.

11th.

Returned this morning to Dowgooroo and found all well. Rain, which we

were much in want of, fell lightly most of the day. Barometer 28.50;

thermometer 61 degrees.

12th.

Steered this morning about North 38 degrees East magnetic for eight

miles, and camped by a shallow lake of fresh water--the bivouac of the

10th. Here we met a party of twenty-five natives (friends of my native

Jemmy and the nine who joined us at Mount Churchman) who had a grand

corroboree in honour of the expedition. They stated that at

Bouincabbajilimar there were the remains of a number of horses, but no

men's bones or guns, and pointed in the direction of Poison Rock, where

Mr. Austin lost nine horses. Being now satisfied that the natives were

alluding to the remains of Mr. Austin's horses, I resolved to steer to

the eastward, towards a spot called by the native, Jemmy, Noondie, where

he states he heard the remains of white men were.

13th.

Bidding farewell to all the natives, we steered in a south-easterly

direction for fifteen miles, and camped in a rough hollow called

Durkying; cypress and acacia thickets the whole way.

14th.

One of our horses having strayed, we did not start till 10.40 a.m., when

we steered in about a South-East direction for eight miles, and camped on

an elevated grassy spot, called Mingan, with water in the granite rocks,

probably permanent. The thickets were a little less dense than usual, but

without any grass, except at the spots mentioned. By meridian altitudes

of Mars and Regulus, we were in south latitude 29 degrees 30 minutes 30

seconds, and in longitude about 118 degrees 30 minutes east.

15th.

Steering North-East for four miles, and North-North-East for seven miles,

over sandy soil, with thickets of acacia and cypress, we bivouacked on an

elevated grassy spot, called Earroo, with water in granite rocks.

16th (Sunday).

Rested at Earroo; horses enjoying good feed. By meridian altitudes of

Regulus and Mars, camp at Earroo was in south latitude 29 degrees 23

minutes 3 seconds, and in longitude 118 degrees 35 minutes East; weather

very cloudy; barometer 29.

17th.

Started 7.50 a.m., and steered North 60 degrees East for about five

miles; thence about North 50 degrees East for eight miles; thence North

85 degrees East for five miles, to a small grassy spot called Croobenyer,

with water in granite rocks. Sandy soil, thickets of cypress, acacia,

etc., most of the way. Found camp to be in south latitude 29 degrees 12

minutes 43 seconds by meridian altitudes of Regulus and Aquilae (Altair);

barometer 28.70.

18th.

Steering North 70 degrees East for two miles and a half, we saw a low

hill called Yeeramudder, bearing North 62 degrees 30 minutes East

magnetic, distant about seventeen miles, for which we steered, and camped

to the north of it, on a fine patch of grass with a little rain-water on

some granite rocks. At eleven miles crossed a branch of a dry salt lake,

which appears to run far to the eastward.

19th.

Steering about North 85 degrees East magnetic for fourteen miles,

attempted to cross the lake we had been leaving a little to the

southward, making for a spot supposed by us to be the opposite shore, but

on arriving at which was found to be an island. As we had great

difficulty in reaching it, having to carry all the loads the last 200

yards, our horses saving themselves with difficulty, and, being late, I

resolved to leave the loads and take the horses to another island, where

there was a little feed, on reaching which we bivouacked without water,

all being very tired.

20th.

On examining this immense lake I found that it was impossible to get the

horses and loads across it; I was therefore compelled to retrace my steps

to where we first entered it, which the horses did with great difficulty

without their loads. I was very fortunate in finding water and feed about

three miles North-North-West, to which we took the horses and bivouacked,

leaving on the island all the loads, which we shall have to carry at

least half way, three quarters of a mile, the route being too boggy for

the horses.

HEAVY WORK IN THE BOG.

21st.

Went over to the lake in company with Messrs. Monger, Hamersley, and

Tommy Windich, with four horses. Succeeded in getting all the loads to

the mainland, carrying them about three quarters of a mile up to our

knees in mud, from which point the lake became a little firmer, and the

horses carried the loads out. I cannot speak too highly of the manner in

which my companions assisted me on this trying occasion. Having been

obliged to work barefooted in the mud, the soles of Mr. Hamersley's feet

were in a very bad state, and he was hardly able to walk for a fortnight.

Seeing a native fire several miles to the southward, I intend sending

Tommy Windich and Jemmy in search of the tribe to-morrow, in order that I

may question them respecting the reported death of white men to the

eastward.

22nd.

Went over to the lake with all the horses, and brought the loads to the

camp. Started Tommy and Jemmy in search of the natives. After returning

to camp, overhauled all the pack bags, and dried and re-packed them,

ready for a fresh start on Monday morning. Also washed the mud off the

horses, who appear to be doing well, and fast recovering from the effects

of the bogging. Tommy and Jemmy returned this evening, having seen some

natives after dark, but were unable to get near them.

23rd (Sunday).

Went with Tommy Windich and Jemmy on foot to follow the tracks of the

natives seen yesterday. Seeing no chance of overtaking them, as they

appeared to be making off at a great rate, and were twelve hours in

advance of us, we returned, after following the tracks for five miles

across the lake. The camp was reached at 2 p.m., after we had walked

about fifteen miles. This spot, which I named Retreat Rock, I found to be

in south latitude 29 degrees 3 minutes 51 seconds by meridian altitudes

of Regulus and Mars, and in about longitude 119 degrees 16 minutes east.

24th.

Some of the horses having strayed, we were not able to start till 10.40

a.m., when we steered in about East-North-East direction for sixteen

miles, and camped on a piece of rising ground, with very little water.

From this bivouac, a very remarkable peaked hill, called Woolling, which

I named Mount Elain, bore North 162 degrees 15 minutes East magnetic,

distant about twenty miles; and two conspicuous hills, close together,

called Yeadie and Bulgar, bore North 105 degrees East magnetic. Dense

thickets, acacia, cypress, etc., sandy soil with spinifex, most of the

way.

DISCOVERY OF LAKE BARLEE.

25th.

Steering for Yeadie and Bulgar for five miles, and came to some granite

rocks with water, where we gave drink to our thirsty horses. Leaving the

party to follow, I went with Jemmy in advance to look for water, which we

found in a rough stream-bed, and brought the party to it. This afternoon

went with Jemmy to the summit of Yeadie, and took a round of angles. The

local attraction was so great on this hill that the prismatic compass was

useless; luckily I had my pocket sextant with me, by which I obtained the

included angles. From the summit of Yeadie the view was very extensive.

The great lake that we had already followed for forty miles ran as far as

the eye could reach to the east and south, studded with numerous islands;

low ranges of hills in every direction. This immense lake I named Lake

Barlee, after the Colonial Secretary of Western Australia. By meridian

altitudes of Mars and Regulus, camp was in south latitude, 28 degrees 58

minutes 50 seconds, and in longitude about 119 degrees 39 minutes East,

Yeadie bearing North 172 degrees East magnetic, distant about two miles.

26th.

Moving in about a northerly direction for nine miles, we turned to the

eastward, rounded a branch of Lake Barlee, towards some loose granite

rocks, where we encamped, but could not find water. Sent Jemmy over to

another rock one mile southward, where he found a fine permanent

water-hole, to which we took the horses after dark. Distance travelled

to-day about eighteen miles. Tommy shot a fine emu, which was a great

treat to us all.

27th.

Shifted the party over to the water found last night, one mile distant,

and camped. Found camp to be in south latitude 28 degrees 53 minutes, and

in longitude about 119 degrees 50 minutes east. Marked a small tree with

the letter F. close to the waterhole.

28th.

Some of the horses having strayed, we did not start till 9.30 a.m., when

I went in advance of the party, in company with Jemmy, to look for water.

After following Lake Barlee for nine miles, it turned to the southward.

Then scouring the country in every direction for water without success,

we reached the tracks of the party (who had passed on), and, following

them over plains of spinifex and stunted gums, found them encamped with

plenty of water, which they had luckily discovered at sundown. Distance

travelled eighteen miles about true east. By meridian altitude of Bootes

(Arcturus), this bivouac is in south latitude 28 degrees 53 minutes 34

seconds, and longitude about 120 degrees 9 minutes east.

DISAPPOINTED EXPEDITIONS.

29th.

Started in company with Tommy and Jemmy to explore the country eastward,

leaving the party to take off the horses' shoes for their relief.

Travelling in an easterly direction for eight miles over sandy soil and

spinifex, we reached the summit of a high hill, supposed by Jemmy to be

Noondie, which I named Mount Alexander, from which we saw another range

about eleven miles distant, bearing North 82 degrees 15 minutes East

magnetic, to which we proceeded, and found water in some granite rocks.

None of these hills, however, agreed with the description given by Jemmy;

and the expectations were at an end that he would succeed in showing us

the spot where the remains of white men were. Returning to camp, seven

miles, bivouacked on a grassy flat, without water or food.

30th. (Sunday).

Started at dawn, with the saddles and rugs on our backs, in search of the

horses, and, after travelling a mile and a half on their tracks, found

them at a small water-hole passed by us yesterday. Saddled up and reached

camp at eleven o'clock, and found all well. Yesterday morning the dogs

caught an emu, off which we made a first-rate breakfast, not having had

anything to eat since the previous morning. Barometer 28.44.

A DIFFICULTY WITH THE NATIVES.

31st.

Started this morning in company with Mr. Monger and Jemmy in search of

natives, leaving Mr. Hamersley in charge, with instructions to proceed

eastward about twenty-two miles, to where I found water on the 29th.

After starting the party we steered in a South-South-East direction

towards a high range of hills, which I named Mount Bivou, about twelve

miles distant. To the westward of the range we found a fine water-hole in

some granite rocks, where we rested an hour to allow the horses to feed.

Continuing in about the same direction for five miles, we ascended a

rough range to have a view of the country. We descried a large fire to

the westward seven miles, towards which we proceeded, in the hope of

finding natives. When we were within half a mile we could hear hallooing

and shouting; and it was very evident there was a great muster (certainly

not less than 100) of natives, corrobberying, making a dreadful noise,

the dogs joining in chorus. Having stripped Jemmy, I told him to go and

speak to them, which he started to do in very good spirits. He soon

beckoned us to follow, and asked us to keep close behind him, as the

natives were what he called like "sheep flock." He appeared very nervous,

trembling from head to foot. After reassuring him, we tied up our horses,

and advanced through the thicket towards them. When getting in sight of

them, Jemmy commenced cooeying, and was answered by the natives; after

which he advanced and showed himself. As soon as they saw him, the

bloodthirsty villains rushed at him, and threw three dowaks, which he

luckily dodged; when fortunately one of the natives recognized him

(having seen Jemmy at Mount Elain when a little boy), and called to the

others not to harm him. Seeing Jemmy running towards the horses, Mr.

Monger and I thought it was time to retire, as we saw the mistake we had

made in leaving the horses. The thickets being dense, we had difficulty

in finding the horses quickly. On reaching them Mr. Monger found he had

dropped his revolver. Had not Jemmy been recognized, I feel sure we

should have had bloodshed, and might probably have lost our lives.

Mounting the horses, we advanced towards the natives, and had a short

talk with one of them who came to speak to Jemmy. There was a guard of

eight natives, with spears stripped, and dowaks in readiness, should we

prove hostile. Although I assured them we were friends, and asked them to

put down their spears, they took no notice of what was said. One native

told us not to sleep here, but to go away and not return, or the natives

would kill and eat us, after which he turned away as if he did not wish

to have any more words with us. It being now dark, we took his advice,

and retreated towards where we had dinner, five miles off. Camped in a

thicket without water, and tied up our horses, keeping watch all night.

June 1st.

At daybreak saddled up our tired and hungry horses, and proceeded to

where we had dinner yesterday. After giving our horses two hours' grazing

and having had breakfast, started back towards the natives' camp, as I

wished to question them respecting the reported death of white men in

this neighbourhood. When we approached the natives' bivouac, we saw where

they had been following up our tracks in every direction, and Jemmy found

the place where they had picked up Mr. Monger's revolver. While Jemmy was

away looking for the revolver, Mr. Monger saw two natives following up

our trail, and within fifty yards of us. We both wheeled round and had

our guns in readiness, but soon perceived they were the same as were

friendly last night, and I called Jemmy to speak to them. At my request

they went and brought us Mr. Monger's revolver, which they stated they

had been warming near the fire! Fortunately for them, it did not go off.

On being questioned by Jemmy, they stated that the place Noondie (where

Jemmy stated he heard the remains of the white men were) was two days'

journey North-West from this spot; that there were the remains of horses,

but not of men, and they volunteered to show us the spot. Being now 1

p.m., and having to meet the party to-night at a place about twenty-three

miles distant, we started at once, leaving the natives, who did not wish

to move to-day, but who apparently sincerely promised to come to our camp

to-morrow. Reached camp at the spot arranged an hour after dark, and

found all well.

BIVOUACKING.

2nd.

Rested our horses at the place, which I called the Two-spring Bivouac,

there being two small springs here. Re-stuffed with grass all the

pack-saddles, as some of the horses were getting sore backs. By meridian

altitude of sun found the camp to be in south latitude 28 degrees 51

minutes 45 seconds, and in longitude about 120 degrees 30 minutes east. I

was very much annoyed at the natives not putting in appearance as

promised.

3rd.

No sign of the natives this morning. I decided to steer in the direction

pointed out by them, and travelling about North 306 degrees East magnetic

for fifteen miles, we found water in some granite rocks, with very good

feed around, cypress and acacia thickets, light red loamy soil, destitute

of grass.

4th.

Steering in about West-North-West direction for sixteen miles, the first

six of which were studded with granite rocks, good feed around them,

after which through poor sandy country, covered with spinifex. We

bivouacked in a thicket without water or feed, and tied up our horses.

Saw a natives' fire, but was unable to get near it. Barometer 28.52;

fine.

5th.

After travelling in a northerly direction for seven miles without finding

water, and without seeing any hill answering the description given by

Jemmy, I struck about east for sixteen miles, and camped at a fine spring

near some granite rocks, with splendid feed around them. This is the first

good spring since leaving the settled districts. At 8 p.m., barometer

28.44; thermometer 72 degrees.

6th (Sunday).

Rested at camp, which I called Depot Spring, and found to be in south

latitude 28 degrees 36 minutes 34 seconds by meridian altitude of sun.

Barometer at 8 a.m. 28.38; thermometer 57 degrees; at 5 p.m., barometer

28.30; thermometer 77 degrees.

7th.

Started this morning, in company with Mr. Hamersley and Jemmy, to explore

the country to the northward, where we had seen a peaked hill. Went in

that direction about thirty miles, the first twenty of which were studded

with granite rocks, with fine feed around them. At twenty-seven miles

crossed a salt marsh, about one mile wide, and, continuing three miles

farther, reached the peaked hill, which was composed of granite, capped

with immense blocks, giving it a very remarkable appearance. Bivouacked

on North-West side of hill, at a small water-hole.

8th.

This morning, after saddling up, we ascended the conical hill (which I

named Mount Holmes) and took a round of angles from it, after which we

struck North 81 degrees East magnetic to a granite range about eight

miles distant, where we found two fine water-holes, and rested an hour.

Thence in about a South-South-East direction for twelve miles, we

bivouacked without water on a small patch of feed. The day was very fine,

and the rainy appearance cleared off, much to our grief.

9th.

At daybreak, no sound of horses' bells, and anticipating they had made

off in search of water, we put our saddles, guns, and rugs on our backs,

and started on their tracks. After following the tracks for nine miles we

came to a water-hole and had breakfast; afterwards we succeeded in

overtaking the horses in a grassy flat, about thirteen miles

South-South-East from our last night's bivouac. The last few miles our

troublesome load became very awkward and heavy. One of the horses had

broken his hobbles. Continuing in about the same course for six miles, we

struck about West-South-West for ten miles, and reached camp, where we

found all well, at 6 p.m. Barometer 28.64; cloudy.

AN OLD NATIVE.

10th.

Started again this morning in company with Mr. Monger and Jemmy, to

explore the country to the eastward, leaving Mr. Hamersley to shift the

party to our bivouac of the 2nd instant, about twenty-four miles

South-East from here. After travelling East-North-East for six miles, we

came upon a very old native at a fire in the thicket. Jemmy could not

understand what he said, but he thought that he meant that there were a

number of armed natives about. He was very frightened, howled the whole

time we stayed, and was apparently in his dotage, hardly able to walk.

Continuing our journey, we camped at a small water-hole in some granite

rocks, with good feed around them, about sixteen miles East-North-East

from Depot Spring.

11th.

Started at sunrise, and steered about East-North-East over

lightly-grassed country; and on our way came upon a middle-aged native

with two small children. We were within twenty yards of him before he saw

us. He appeared very frightened, and trembled from head to foot. Jemmy

could understand this native a little, and ascertained from him that he

had never seen or heard anything about white men or horses being killed

or having died in this vicinity. Did not know any place named Noondie;

but pointed to water a little way eastward. Jemmy then asked him all

manner of questions, but to no purpose, as he stated he knew nothing

about the business. Jemmy asked him if he had ever heard of any horses

being eaten; he answered No, but that the natives had just eaten his

brother! I have no doubt parents have great difficulty in saving their

children from these inhuman wretches. Then the old man tried to cry, and

ended by saying he had two women at his hut, a little westward. After

travelling ten miles from our last night's bivouac, and not finding

water, we struck North 204 degrees East magnetic for about twenty miles,

through scrubby thickets, without feed, and arrived at the bivouac of the

2nd, where the party will meet us to-morrow. Reached the water at the Two

Springs half an hour after dark.

12th.

Explored the country around camp in search of a better place for feed,

but could not find water. Mr. Hamersley and party joined us at 4 p.m.,

all well. Tommy shot a red kangaroo, which was a great treat, after

living so long on salt pork. Barometer 28.60; fine; cold wind from the

east all day.

13th (Sunday).

Rested at camp. Intend taking a trip to the southward to-morrow.

Barometer 28.76.

14th.

Started this morning, in company with Morgan and Jemmy, to examine the

country to the southward. Travelled in a south-westerly direction for

twenty-five miles, and camped at the spot where we had the encounter with

the natives on May 31. We found they had left, and there was no water on

the rocks. Luckily our horses had water six miles back.

MOUNT IDA.

15th.

Saddled up at daybreak, and steered about South-East towards a high range

of hills about ten miles distant. I named it Mount Ida, and from the

summit I took a round of angles with my pocket sextant. On all the hills

in this neighbourhood the local attraction is so great that the prismatic

compass is useless. Found a fine spring of water on south side of Mount

Ida, in an almost inaccessible spot. After giving the horses two hours'

rest we continued our journey North 154 degrees East magnetic for eight

miles to a granite range, where, after a diligent search, I found two

water-holes, and bivouacked, with good feed around the rocks.

16th.

Saddled up at sunrise, and steered to some trap ranges, North 124 degrees

East, about seven miles distant, from which I could see an immense lake

running as far as the eye could reach to the eastward, and westerly and

northerly, most probably joining Lake Barlee. Not being able to proceed

farther southward, on account of the lake, I steered in a northerly

direction for twenty miles, but, discovering neither feed nor water,

bivouacked in a thicket, and tied up our horses.

17th.

At dawn, found that my horse Sugar, after breaking his bridle, had made

off towards our bivouac of the 15th. Placing my saddle on Jemmy's horse,

we followed on the track for six miles, when we came to a few granite

rocks, with a little water on them, from rain that had fallen during the

night. At this place Morgan was left with the horses and our guns, while

Jemmy and I followed on Sugar's tracks, taking only a revolver with us.

After travelling on the tracks for two miles we overtook him, and with a

little trouble managed to catch him. On reaching the spot where we had

left Morgan, we found him with the three double-barrelled guns on full

cock, together with his revolver, in readiness. On being asked what was

the matter, he stated "Nothing," but he was ready to give the natives

what he called "a warm attachment." After having breakfast we steered

North-North-West for about twenty miles, and reached camp at 5 p.m., and

found all well. Rained a little during the day.

EXPLORING EASTWARD.

18th.

Having thus made an exhaustive search in the neighbourhood where Jemmy

expected to find the remains of the white men, by travelling over nearly

the whole of the country between latitude 28 degrees and 29 degrees 30

minutes south, and longitude 120 and 121 degrees east, I determined to

make the most of the little time at my disposal, and carry out the

instruction that I was to attempt to proceed as far eastward as possible.

Accordingly, after collecting the horses, steered about East-North-East

for nine miles, to a low quartz range, over tolerably grassy country, not

very dense. From this range I saw some bare granite rocks bearing about

North 120 degrees East magnetic. For these we steered, and luckily, after

travelling six miles over a plain, which in severe winters must be nearly

all under water, found a fine pool in a clay-pan, and bivouacked. There

was a little rain during the night.

19th.

The horses having strayed back on our tracks, we did not start till 12

o'clock, when the journey was continued towards the granite range seen

yesterday, about ten miles distant. We camped on west side of North, with

plenty of water from the recent rain on the granite rocks, but with very

little feed. At five miles crossed a dry stream-bed, eighteen yards wide,

sandy bottom; thickets most of the way, but not very dense.

20th (Sunday).

Rested at camp. Jemmy shot four rock kangaroos to-day. Took a round of

angles from a bare granite hill, North 50 degrees East magnetic, about

one mile from camp, which I found to be in south latitude 28 degrees 57

minutes by meridian altitudes of Bootes (Arcturus) and a Pegasi (Markab);

and in longitude about 120 degrees 55 minutes East. Saw a high hill

bearing North 81 degrees 30 minutes East magnetic, about twenty-five

miles distant, which I named Mount Lenora; and another bearing North 67

degrees East magnetic, about twenty-five miles distant, which I named

Mount George. Intend proceeding to Mount Lenora to-morrow. Marked a small

tree (ordnance-tree of Mr. Austin) with the letter F at our bivouac.

21st.

Steering towards Mount Lenora over some tolerably grassy country, we

reached it at sundown, and, not finding any water, camped without it,

with very good feed. In south latitude 28 degrees 53 minutes by meridian

altitudes of Lyrae (Vega) and Aquilae (Altair), and in longitude about

121 degrees 20 minutes East.

22nd.

After making every search in the vicinity of the bivouac for water, and

the country ahead appearing very unpromising, I decided to return ten

miles on our tracks, where we found a fine pool of water in a brook, and

camped. Tomorrow I intend taking a flying trip in search of water.

A NATIVE UP A TREE.

23rd.

Started this morning, in company with Tommy Windich, to explore the

country to the eastward for water, etc. After travelling three miles

towards Mount Lenora, saw a natives' fire bearing North-East about three

miles, to which we proceeded, and surprised a middle-aged native. Upon

seeing us he ran off shouting, and decamped with a number of his

companions, who were at a little distance. The horse I was

riding--Turpin, an old police-horse from Northam--evidently well

understood running down a native, and between us we soon overtook our

black friend and brought him to bay. We could not make him understand

anything we said; but, after looking at us a moment, and seeing no chance

of escape, he dropped his two dowaks and wooden dish, and climbed up a

small tree about twelve feet high. After securing the dowaks, I tried

every means to tempt him to come down; fired my revolver twice, and

showed him the effect it had on the tree. The report had the effect also

of frightening all the natives that were about, who no doubt made off at

a great rate. I began to climb up after him, but he pelted me with

sticks, and was more like a wild beast than a man. After discovering we

did not like to be hit, he became bolder and threw more sticks at us, and

one hitting Tommy, he was nearly shooting him, when I called on him to

desist. I then offered him a piece of damper, showing him it was good by

eating some myself and giving some to Tommy. He would not look at it, and

when I threw it close to him he dashed it away as if it was poison. The

only way of getting him down from the tree was force, and, after

considering a moment, I decided to leave him where he was. We accordingly

laid down his dowaks and dish, and bade him farewell in as kindly a

manner as possible. Continuing our course, passing Mount Lenora, we

steered North 81 degrees 15 minutes East magnetic to a table hill, which

I ascended and took a round of angles. This hill I named Mount Malcolm,

after my friend and companion, Mr. M. Hamersley. Saw a remarkable peak

bearing North 65 degrees East magnetic, distant about twenty miles,

towards which we proceeded, and at six miles came upon a small gully, in

which we found a little water, and bivouacked.

24th.

Started early this morning, and steered East-North-East for six miles to

some low stony ranges, lightly grassed; thence North 61 degrees 30

minutes East magnetic to the remarkable peak, which I named Mount Flora,

distant about nine miles from the stony ranges, ascending which, I

obtained a round of bearings and angles. Saw a high range bearing about

North 106 degrees 15 minutes East magnetic, apparently about sixteen

miles distant, towards which we travelled till after dark, searching for

feed and water on our way without success, and there bivouacked and tied

up our horses.

MOUNT MARGARET.

25th.

Saddled at dawn, and proceeded to the range, which bore North 93 degrees

30 minutes East magnetic, about five miles distant, on reaching which I

ascended the highest peak, and named it Mount Margaret. Took a round of

angles and bearings. From the summit of Mount Margaret the view was very

extensive. There was a large dry salt lake to the southward, as far as

the eye could reach, while to the east and north-east there were low trap

ranges, lightly grassed. A high table hill bore North 73 degrees East

magnetic.

Being now about sixty miles from camp, and not having had any water since

yesterday morning, I decided to return. Steering about west for eight

miles, we struck a brook trending south-east, in which we found a small

quantity of water in a clay-pan. After resting an hour, in order to make

a damper and give the horses a little of the feed, which only grew

sparingly on the banks of the brook, we continued our journey towards

camp. Passing Mount Flora, we camped about eight miles farther onwards,

near a small patch of feed, without water, about a mile north of our

outward track.

26th.

Started at dawn, and reached our bivouac of the 23rd. There obtained just

sufficient water for ourselves and the horses. Continuing, we found a

fine pool of rain-water in a brook a mile and a half west of Mount

Malcolm, and, reaching camp an hour after dark, found all well. On our

way Tommy Windich shot a red kangaroo, which we carried to camp.

27th (Sunday).

Rested at camp. Found it to be in south latitude 28 degrees 55 minutes by

meridian altitudes of sun, Aquilae (Altair), and Lyra, and in longitude

about 121 degrees 10 minutes East. Although we had great difficulty in

procuring water in our last trip, I was reluctant to return without

making another effort, especially as, from the appearance of the country

east of the farthest point, I had hope of a change, and therefore

concluded to shift the party to the water found yesterday near Mount

Malcolm, and make another attempt to proceed farther east.

28th.

Steering about North 81 degrees East magnetic, over lightly-grassed

country, thinly wooded for sixteen miles, we camped a mile and a half

west of Mount Malcolm, in south latitude 28 degrees 51 minutes 19 seconds

by meridian altitude of Aquilae (Altair), and in longitude about 121

degrees 27 minutes East.

29th.

Started this morning, in company with Tommy Windich, with seven days'

provisions, leaving instructions for Mr. Monger to shift the party back

to our last camp, where the feed was much better, in latitude 28 degrees

55 minutes South, and longitude 121 degrees 10 minutes East. Travelled

about east for thirty miles towards Mount Margaret, our farthest point

last trip. We camped in a thicket, without water, on a small patch of

feed.

30th.

Saddled up at dawn, and proceeded towards Mount Margaret, obtaining a

little water at the spot where we found water on our former trip.

Continuing, we came to a fine pool of water in a brook, and rested an

hour, Mount Margaret being north-east about two miles and a half. Hardly

any feed near the water. Resuming, we passed Mount Margaret and started

towards the table hill seen previously, bearing North 73 degrees East

magnetic, apparently about eighteen miles distant, over a series of dry

salt marshes, with sandy country and spinifex intervening. After

travelling eight miles, we bivouacked without water on a small patch of

feed. With the pocket sextant I found this spot to be in south latitude

about 28 degrees 50 minutes, and longitude about 122 degrees 11 minutes

East.

MOUNT WELD.

July 1st.

After journeying towards the table hill seen yesterday for six miles,

crossed a large brook heading south-west, in which we found a small pool

of rain-water, and rested an hour to breakfast. Resuming for about six

miles, reached the table hill, which I ascended and took a round of

angles. I have since named this hill Mount Weld, being the farthest hill

seen eastward by us. Continuing about North 77 degrees East magnetic for

fifteen miles, through dense thickets--no grass except spinifex--we

bivouacked, without water or feed, and then tied up our horses. I found

this spot to be in south latitude 28 degrees 41 minutes by meridian

altitude of Bootes (Arcturus), and in longitude about 122 degrees 37

minutes East.

2nd.

Started at dawn, and steered about east, searching on our way for water,

which our horses and ourselves were beginning to want much. At six miles

we found a small hole in some rocks, apparently empty, but on sounding

with a stick I found it to contain a little water. The mouth of the hole

being too small to admit a pannican, and having used my hat with very

little success, I at last thought of my gum-bucket, with which we

procured about two quarts of something between mud and water, which,

after straining through my pocket-handkerchief, we pronounced first-rate.

Continuing for six miles over clear, open sand-plains, with spinifex and

large white gums--the only large trees and clear country seen since

leaving the settled districts--we climbed up a white gum to have a view

of the country eastward. Some rough sandstone cliffs bore North 127

degrees East magnetic, about six miles distant. The country eastward was

almost level, with sandstone cliffs here and there, apparently thickly

wooded with white gums, and other trees; spinifex everywhere, but no

prospects of water. More to the north, a narrow line of samphire flats

appeared, with cypress and stunted gums on its edges--all barren and

desolate--so much so, indeed, that for the last twenty-five miles there

has been no grass seen at all save spinifex. After taking a few bearings

from the top of the tree (which I marked with the letter F on the south

side), which is in south latitude about 28 degrees 41 minutes, and

longitude about 122 degrees 50 East, I decided to return to our last

watering place, nearly thirty-one miles distant, as we were now over 100

miles from camp, and the horses had been without water or feed since

yesterday morning. Therefore, keeping a little to the north of the

outward track, we travelled nearly two hours after dark, and camped

without water or feed, and tied up the horses.

WINDICH BROOK.

3rd.

Saddled up early, and steered westerly towards our last watering-place,

about fourteen miles distant; but, after travelling nearly seven miles,

came to a small pool of water (at the head of the brook where we found

water on the 1st), and rested two hours to allow our horses to feed, as

they had neither eaten nor drunk for the last forty-eight hours. Resuming

our journey along the brook (which I named Windich Brook, after my

companion, Tommy Windich) for ten miles, in which we found several pools

of water, but destitute of feed, camped without water about two miles

east of our bivouac of the 30th June.

4th.

Travelling about West-South-West for twelve miles, we reached the pool of

water found on our outward track on the 30th June, two miles and a half

South-West from Mount Margaret. There we rested an hour. Resuming, we

travelled nearly along our outward track for eighteen miles, and camped

without water on a small patch of feed. Tommy shot two wurrongs to-day.

5th.

Started at daybreak, and, continuing nearly along our outward track for

twenty-five miles, we reached the water close to Mount Malcolm, where we

left the party, they having shifted, as instructed, seventeen miles

farther back. There we rested an hour; but, having finished our

provisions, we roasted two wurrongs and made a first-rate dinner. Tommy

also shot an emu that came to water, and which we carried to camp.

Reached there at 6 p.m. and found all well, having been absent seven

days, every night being without water, during which time we travelled

over 200 miles.

6th.

Weighed all the rations, and found we had 283 pounds flour, 31 pounds

bacon, 28 pounds sugar, and 4 pounds tea--equal to thirty-two days'

allowance of flour, ten days' bacon, nineteen days' sugar, and twenty-one

days' tea on a full ration. Thereupon concluded to return to Perth as

quickly as possible, and reduce the allowance of tea and sugar to last

thirty days--bacon to be done without. By that time I hope to reach

Clarke's homestead, Victoria Plains, and intend to return by Mount

Kenneth, Nanjajetty, Ningham, or Mount Singleton, and thence to Damparwar

and Clarke's homestead, thus fixing a few points that will be useful to

the Survey Office.

THE RETURN JOURNEY.

7th.

At 6.30 a.m., barometer 28 86, thermometer 34 degrees. Started on the

return, and followed along our outward tracks for sixteen miles. Camped

on east side of granite range, in south latitude 28 degrees 57 minutes,

and east longitude 120 degrees 55 minutes.

8th.

Travelling nearly along our eastward track, and passing our bivouac of

the 19th June, we reached the Two Springs bivouac.

9th.

Travelled twenty-two miles, and reached our bivouac of 30th May--129

degrees 9 minutes East.

10th.

Reached the bivouac of May 27th. On our way I ascended a very high range,

which I named Mount Alfred, and took a fine round of angles--Mount

Alexander, Mount Bivou, Mount Ida, Mount Elvire, and Yeadie and Bulgar

being visible.

11th (Sunday).

Plotted up our track.

12th.

Travelled for twenty-five miles and camped on a splendid patch of feed,

with a little water on some granite rocks about two miles west of our

bivouac of the 24th. This I found to be in south latitude 28 degrees 57

minutes 48 seconds by meridian altitudes of Bootes (Arcturus) and Pegasi

(Markab), and in longitude about 119 degrees 28 minutes east; Mount

Elvire bearing North 154 degrees East magnetic, distant about twenty-one

miles.

13th.

Leaving the party in charge of Mr. Monger, with instructions to proceed

to Retreat Rock--our bivouac of May 23rd--I started with Mr. Hamersley

and Jemmy to attempt to cross Lake Barlee, in order to explore the

country on its south side, near Mount Elvire, as well as to try and find

natives, Jemmy being acquainted with these tribes. Steering North 154

degrees East magnetic for seven miles, we came to the lake, and, entering

it, succeeded in reaching the southern shore after twelve miles of heavy

walking, sinking over our boots every step--the horses having great

difficulty in getting through. When we reached the southern shore, it was

nearly sundown. Determined to push on, and reached the range, where we

bivouacked on a patch of feed and a little water; Mount Elvire bearing

North 87 degrees East magnetic, about one mile distant; and Yeadie and

Bulgar North 8 degrees East magnetic. Rained lightly during the day.

Being wet through from the splashings of the horses while crossing the

lake, and from it raining throughout the night, and not having any

covering, our situation was not the most pleasant. Jemmy informed me

there was a fine permanent spring close to Mount Elvire; but we did not

go to see it.

14th.

This morning, after ascending a range to have a view of the country,

steered North 288 degrees East magnetic, and then, travelling six miles,

came to a branch of Lake Barlee running far to the southward, which we

attempted to cross; but after travelling a mile and a half, the horses

went down to their girths in the bog, and we had great difficulty in

getting them to return, which, however, we ultimately succeeded in doing,

and made another attempt, at a place where a series of islands appeared,

to cross it, and, passing over without much difficulty, reached the

opposite shore at sundown, where we bivouacked on a splendid grassy ride,

with abundance of water in granite rocks, Mount Elvire bearing North 108

degrees East magnetic, and Yeadie and Bulgar North 45 degrees East

magnetic.

15th.

Having finished our rations last night, we started at dawn, and steered

towards Retreat Rock. where we were to meet the party. After travelling

five miles, we came to that part of Lake Barlee which we attempted to

cross, without success, on May 19th (on our outward track); but, leading

our horses, we at last succeeded in crossing, and reached camp, all very

tired, at twelve o'clock, finding all well. The party were encamped one

mile north of our former bivouac, at some granite rocks with two fine

water-holes.

16th.

Considerable delay having occurred in collecting the horses, we did not

start till ten o'clock, when we travelled nearly along our outward

track--passing Yeeramudder Hill, from the summit of which Mount Elvire

bore North 111 degrees 30 minutes East magnetic about thirty-five miles

distant--for about twenty-one miles, and bivouacked at some granite rocks

with a little feed around them, which I found to be in south latitude 29

degrees 8 minutes 47 seconds by meridian altitudes of Bootes (Arcturus)

and Pegasi (Markab), and in longitude about 118 degrees 59 minutes East.

17th.

Started at 8.45 a.m., and, steering about west for twenty-five miles

through dense thickets without feed, we camped without water on a small

miserable patch, in south latitude 29 degrees 7 minutes 13 seconds by

meridian altitude of Bootes (Arcturus). Marked a small tree with F. 1869.

Being now in friendly country, I decided to give up keeping watch, which

had been done regularly for the last two months.

18th (Sunday).

After starting the party, went, in company with Tommy Windich, to take

bearings from a low hill, bearing North 289 degrees, distant about eight

miles, after which we struck in the direction in which we expected to

find the party; but as, for some reason or other, they had not passed by,

I anticipated they must have met with good feed and water, and camped, it

being Sunday. However this may be, we kept bearing more and more to the

southward, in hope of crossing the track, till after dark, when we

reached the Warne Flats, and bivouacked. Not expecting to be absent more

than a few days, we had neither rations nor rugs. Luckily, Tommy shot a

turkey, which we roasted in the ashes, and made a very good meal. The

night was bitterly cold, and, not having any rug, I slept with a fire on

each side of me, and, considering the circumstances, slept fairly.

19th.

Made a first-rate breakfast off the remainder of the turkey, and then

started in search of the party, making back towards where we had left

them, keeping well to the southward. After spending nearly the whole of

the day, and knocking up the horses, we found the tracks of the party

nearly where we had left them yesterday morning, and, following along

them for nine miles, found where they had bivouacked last night; and, it

being now two hours after dark, we camped also, having between us for

supper an opossum, which Tommy had luckily caught during the day. The

night was again very cold, and we had hardly anything to eat, which made

matters still worse.

20th.

Starting on the tracks at daybreak, followed them for about thirteen

miles, and then we found the party encamped on the east side of a large

bare granite rock called Meroin, Mount Kenneth bearing North 24 degrees

East magnetic, about fifteen miles distant. From a cliff, about one mile

west of the camp, took a splendid round of angles, Mount Kenneth, Mount

Singleton, and several other known points being visible. By meridian

altitudes of sun, a Bootes (Arcturus), E Bootes, and a Coronae Borealis,

camp was in south latitude 29 degrees 10 minutes 49 seconds, and

longitude about 118 degrees 14 minutes east.

21st.

At seven a.m., barometer 29.10; thermometer 35 degrees. Started at 8.15

a.m. Steered about west for fifteen miles, over country studded here and

there with granite rocks, with good feed around them--in some places rock

poison--and then camped at a spring called Pullagooroo, bearing North 189

degrees from a bare granite hill, three quarters of a mile distant, from

which hill Mount Singleton bore North 237 degrees East magnetic, by

meridian altitudes of a Bootes (Arcturus) and E Bootes. Pullagooroo is in

south latitude 29 degrees 7 minutes 46 seconds. Finished our bacon this

morning, and for the future will only have damper and tea.

22nd.

Steering a little to the north of west, through dense thickets without

grass, we bivouacked at a very grassy spot called Bunnaroo, from which

Mount Singleton bore North 205 degrees East magnetic. By meridian

altitudes of a Bootes (Arcturus), E Bootes, and Coronae Borealis, camp is

in south latitude 28 degrees 58 minutes, and in longitude about 117

degrees 35 minutes east.

MOUNT SINGLETON.

23rd.

After starting the party with instructions to proceed straight to Mount

Singleton, distant about thirty-two miles, I went, in company with Jemmy,

to the summit of a high trap range in order to take a round of angles,

and fix Nanjajetty, which was visible. While on our way to join the

party, saw the tracks of two men and two horses, with two natives

walking, and soon after found where they had bivouacked a few days

before. Was much surprised at this discovery: suppose it to be squatters

looking for country. Continuing, we found the tracks of our party, and

overtook them, and encamped at a fine permanent spring--Mount Singleton

bearing North 146 degrees East magnetic about three miles and a half

distant. Reached the party at seven o'clock. There was a partial eclipse

of the moon this evening.

24th.

There being splendid green feed around Mount Singleton, and as the horses

were tired, I concluded to give them a day's rest. Went, in company with

Mr. Monger and Jemmy, to the summit of Mount Singleton, which took us an

hour to ascend; but, on reaching it, we were well repaid for the trouble

by the very extensive view and the many points to which I could take

bearings. Far as the eye could reach to the East and South-East were

visible Lake Moore, Mount Churchman; to the north, conspicuous high trap

ranges appeared; while to the west, within a radius of six miles, hills

covered with flowers gave the country a pretty appearance. Further to the

west a dry salt lake and a few trap hills appeared. Reached the camp at 2

p.m. On our way shot three rock kangaroos.

25th (Sunday).

Rested at camp near Mount Singleton, which I found to be in south

latitude 29 degrees 24 minutes 33 seconds by meridian altitude of sun,

and longitude about 117 degrees 20 minutes east.

26th.

Some delay having occurred in collecting the horses, did not start till 9

a.m., when we steered a little to the north of west towards Damparwar.

For the first seven miles over rough trap hills lightly grassed, when we

entered samphire and saltbush flats for four miles. Crossing a large

marsh at a point where it was only 100 yards wide, and continuing through

thickets, we camped at a spot with very little feed and no water, in

south latitude 29 degrees 21 minutes 48 seconds. From this spot Mount

Singleton bore North 113 degrees 20 minutes East magnetic, distant about

twenty miles. Here we met two natives, whom we had seen on our outward

track at the Warne Corroboree. They were of course friendly, and slept at

our camp; they had a great many dulgates and opossums, which they carried

in a net bag, made out of the inner bark of the ordnance-tree, which

makes a splendid strong cord. They informed us that a native had come

from the eastward with intelligence relating to the encounter we had with

the large tribe on May 31, adding that we had all been killed, and that

all the natives in this vicinity had cried very much on hearing the news.

This is another specimen of the narrations of natives, with whom a tale

never loses anything by being carried.

27th.

Steering a little to the north of west for eighteen miles, we reached

Damparwar Springs, a clear grassy spot of about 300 acres, on west side

of a low granite hill. The spring was dry, but by digging a few feet

obtained abundant supply. From the appearance of the country there has

hardly been any rain in this neighbourhood for many months. Took a round

of angles from a trap hill about two miles distant, Mount Singleton and

many other points being visible. Met a party of friendly natives here. By

meridian altitudes of a Bootes, a Coronae Borealis and a Lyrae (Vega),

Damparwar Spring is in south latitude 29 degrees 16 minutes 32 seconds,

and longitude about 116 degrees 47 minutes East.

28th.

Steering in a southerly direction, and following along the western margin

of a salt lake--most of the way over samphire flats, with thickets

intervening, denser than usual--we encamped on a small grassy spot, with

plenty of water in granite rocks, called Murrunggnulgo, situated close to

the west side of the lake, which I named Lake Monger. The native Jemmy,

in company with some of his friends, stayed behind to-day in order to

catch opossums, and did not join us this evening. By meridian altitudes

of E Bootes, a Coronae Borealis, a Lyrae (Vega), and Aquilae (Altair),

Murrunggnulgo is in south latitude 29 degrees 37 minutes 20 seconds.

Damparwar bearing about north magnetic.

29th.

Moving a little to the west of south for twenty miles, through dense

thickets, by far the worst we have ever encountered, and destitute of

feed, we reached Bera Bera, a grassy spot with a dry well, where water

might be procured. Continuing North 238 degrees East for about five

miles, we reached and camped at some granite rocks, with a fine well of

water called Wandanno, which I found to be in south latitude 29 degrees

57 minutes 14 seconds by meridian altitudes of Lyrae (Vega) and Aquilae

(Altair). From Bera Bera, Mount Singleton bore North 50 degrees 30

minutes East magnetic about fifty miles distant. Jemmy did not put in an

appearance to-day, but sent on a native to say he would join us in a day

or two.

30th.

Travelling about North 212 degrees East magnetic for fourteen miles, over

samphire flats, with thickets intervening, we reached a fine grassy spot,

with water in granite rocks, called Gnookadunging. Continuing about south

for two and a half miles, passed another small grassy spot called

Ginbinning; thence in about the general direction of North 210 degrees

East magnetic. For about eleven and a half miles, over an immense

sand-plain, running as far as the eye could reach to the North-West and

South-East, we camped in the centre of it at a spring called Manginie, a

sheep station belonging to Mr. James Church. Towards the end of the day

Bailey's horse Tommy fairly gave in, and we had great difficulty in

getting him to camp, which Mr. Hamersley and I did not reach until an

hour after dark. The night was cloudy, and I was unable to get any

observations, but luckily at daybreak obtained meridian altitudes of

Jupiter, which placed Manginie Spring in South latitude 30 degrees 21

minutes.

31st.

Steering about South-South-West for thirteen miles, we reached Cooroo

Springs--a fine grassy spot in winter--where we camped, the horses being

very tired. For the first seven miles over scrubby sand-plains; thence to

Cooroo, over grassy country, with spearwood thickets intervening. Tommy

shot a kangaroo this afternoon, which was very acceptable, having had

only damper and tea for several days past.

August 1st (Sunday).

Rested at Cooroo Springs. All very busy putting our ragged clothes in as

good repair as possible. By meridian altitudes of sun, Lyrae (Vega), 32

degrees 15 minutes. Read Divine Service. Jemmy has not yet overtaken us,

so I conclude he has changed his mind, and does not intend following us.

We are now about nine miles from Clarke's homestead, which bears about

South-South-East.

2nd.

Travelling about South-South-East for nine miles over grassy country,

with York gums, etc., we reached the hospitable residence of Mr. Clarke,

where we were very kindly received, and stayed a short time to hear the

news. Resuming for eighteen miles along the road to Newcastle, we passed

Mr. Donald Macpherson's, where I obtained some rations, and pushed on six

miles farther, and bivouacked one mile south of Badgy-Badgy, with very

short feed for our horses.

3rd.

Travelling along the road towards Newcastle for twenty-six miles, we

camped one mile past Byen, and about sixteen miles from Newcastle.

4th.

Reached Newcastle at eleven o'clock, and had just time to report the safe

return of the expedition before the mail left.

5th.

After handing over all the horses provided by the different settlers to

their respective owners, and bidding farewell to Mr. George Monger (who

intends proceeding to York), I left Newcastle in company with Mr. M.

Hamersley and Tommy Windich, leaving Morgan and remainder of equipment to

follow with the cart which had been brought to Newcastle by Ward and C.

Adams. Reached Baylup at 4 p.m.

6th.

Made an early start; reached Guildford at twelve o'clock, where we rested

an hour. Then resuming, reached Perth at 4 p.m., and reported personally

the results of the expedition, having been absent 113 days, in which time

I travelled by computation over 2000 miles.

I now beg to make a few remarks with reference to the main object of the

expedition, which was the discovery of the remains of the late Dr.

Leichardt and party.

THE NATIVES' STORIES.

In the first place, Mr. Frederick Roe was informed by the native

Weilbarrin, that two white men and their native companions had been

killed by the aborigines, thirteen days' journey to the northward, when

he was at a spot called Koolanobbing, which is in south latitude about 30

degrees 53 minutes, and longitude about 119 degrees 14 minutes east. Mr.

Austin lost eleven horses at Poison Rock (nine died, and two were left

nearly dead), which is in latitude 28 degrees 43 minutes 23 seconds

south, and longitude about 118 degrees 38 minutes east, or about 130

miles from Koolanobbing, and in the direction pointed to by the natives.

I therefore imagine it to be very probable that the whole story

originated from the horses lost by Mr. Austin at Poison Rock, as I am

convinced the natives will say anything they imagine will please. Again,

the account given us at Mount Churchman, on May 5th, appeared very

straightforward and truthful. It was very similar to that related to Mr.

Roe; but, on questioning the natives, they at last stated there were

neither men nor guns left, only horses' remains, and pointed towards

Poison Rock. Further, the native who gave all the information to Mr.

Monger was one of our party. His tale, as related by Mr. Monger, also

appeared very straightforward and truthful, that white men had been

killed by the natives twenty years ago; that he had seen the spot, which

was at a spring near a large lake, so large that it looked like the sea

as seen from Rottnest, eleven days' journey from Ningham or Mount

Singleton, in a fine country. The white men were rushed upon while making

a damper, and clubbed and speared. He had often seen an axe which formed

part of the plunder. All this appears feasible and truthful enough in

print; but the question is, Of what value did I find it? Upon telling

Jemmy what Mr. Monger stated he told him, he said he never told him that

he had seen things himself, but that he had heard it from a native who

had seen them, thus contradicting the whole he had formerly stated to Mr.

Monger. Moreover, the fine country he described we never saw, what a

native calls good country being where he can get a drink of water and a

wurrong; and if there is an acre of grassy land they describe it as a

very extensive grassy country! This I have generally found the case. As a

specimen of the untruthfulness of these natives, I may quote that my

native Jemmy, who was a first-rate fellow in every other respect, stated

to Mr. Monger and myself at York, that there was a large river like that

called the Avon at York, to the eastward, knowing at the time he would be

found out to be telling a falsehood. He even told Mr. George Monger,

before leaving Newcastle, to buy hooks, in order to catch the fish that

were in the river, and concluded by stating that we would have great

difficulty in crossing it, as it ran a great distance north and south.

Almost every evening I questioned and cross-questioned him respecting

this river; still he adhered to what he first stated! It may well be

imagined how disappointed we were on reaching the spot to find only a

small brook running into a salt marsh, with water in winter, but dry in

summer.

With reference to the country travelled over, I am of opinion that it is

worthless as a pastoral or agricultural district; and as to minerals I am

not sufficiently conversant with the science to offer an opinion, except

that I should think it was worth while sending geologists to examine it

thoroughly.

CONDUCT OF THE PARTY.

It now becomes my most pleasing duty to record my entire satisfaction

with the manner in which all the members of the expedition exerted

themselves in the performance of their respective duties. To Mr. George

Monger and Mr. Malcolm Hamersley I am indebted for their co-operation and

advice on all occasions. I am also deeply indebted to Mr. Hamersley for

collecting and preserving all the botanical specimens that came within

his reach, as well as the great trouble and care taken with the store

department, placed under his immediate charge. To probation prisoner

David Morgan my best thanks are due as the shoeing smith, as well as

acting cook for the party the whole time. Of Tommy Windich (native) I

cannot speak too highly, being very useful in collecting the horses, as

well as a first-class huntsman, and really invaluable as a water finder.

Accompanying me on many trying occasions, suffering often from want of

water, he showed energy and determination deserving of the highest

praise. Jemmy Mungaro was also a first-class bushman, and invaluable as a

water finder. He was in many ways useful, and very obedient. His great

failing was that he exaggerated--no tale ever losing anything in his

charge. Nevertheless, I have many things to thank him for, and therefore

he deserves praise.

In conclusion, sir, allow me to thank you for your kindness and advice,

which has greatly supported me in this arduous undertaking. I much regret

that an expedition which was so efficiently equipped, and on which I was

left so free to act, has not resulted in more direct benefit to the

colony, to satisfy many who are not capable of appreciating the

importance of such explorations.

I have, Sir, etc.,

JOHN FORREST,

Leader of Expedition.

The Honourable Captain Roe, R.N., Surveyor-General.

So far as the mystery on which the fate of Leichardt is involved was

concerned, my expedition was barren of results; but the additional

knowledge gained of the character of the country between the settled

districts of Western Australia and the 123rd meridian of east longitude,

well repaid me, and those of the party, for the exertions we had

undergone.

REWARDS.

Shortly after my return I received an official communication from Mr.

Barlee, the Colonial Secretary at Perth, announcing that his Excellency

the Governor, with a view to mark his sense of the value of my services

as leader of the expedition, had sanctioned the payment to me of a

gratuity of 50 pounds. Mr. Monger and Mr. Hamersley each received 25

pounds; Morgan, the probation prisoner, who had done good service in the

expedition, especially in looking after the horses, was promised a

remission of a portion of his sentence. Tommy Windich and Jemmy Mungaro,

the natives, had each a single-barrel gun, with his name

inscribed--presents which they highly valued.

So ended the first of my expeditions; and a very short time elapsed

before I was called upon to undertake a longer, more hazardous, and more

important journey.