CHAPTER VI

ART STUDY IN ENGLAND

Arrived at Euston Station in the small hours of the morning, I bought

a penny loaf and walked the streets eating it and carrying my valise

until the day was sufficiently advanced for me to go to present a

letter of introduction given me by G.P. Putnam, the publisher, to his

agent in England, Mr. Delf, who at once took me to a lodging-house

in Bouverie Street, in which I got a room for six shillings a week,

service included, and an honest, kindly landlady to whom I still feel

indebted for the affectionate interest she took in me. I had letters

to Mr. S.C. Hall, editor of the "Art Journal," and the Rev. William

Black, pastor of the little Seventh Day Baptist Church at Millyard

in Goodmansfields, Leman Street, a very ancient and well-endowed

foundation, made by some Sabbatarian of centuries ago, with a

parsonage and provision for two sermons every Saturday; and under Mr.

Black's preaching I sat all the time I was in London. He was a man of

archaeological tastes whose researches had led him to the conviction

that the Seventh Day was the true Christian Sabbath, and to fellowship

with the congregation of Millyard. I was admitted to honorary

membership in the church, and the listening to the two dry-as-dust

sermons was compensated for by the cordial friendship of the pastor,

an invitation to dinner every Saturday, and the motherly interest of

his wife and daughters. My childhood's faith and my mother's creed

still hung so closely to me that the observances of our ancient church

were to me sacred, and the Sabbath day at Millyard still held me to

the simple ways of home. In that secluded nook, out of all the rush

and noise of London, we lived as we might have lived in an English

village; it was an _impasse_, and one who entered from the narrow and

squalid alleys which led to it was surprised to find the little square

of the old and disused graveyard, with its huge hawthorn trees and its

inclosure of the parsonage appendages, as peaceful and as far from the

world as if it had been in distant Devon.

My letter to Mr. Hall led to introductions to Leslie, Harding,

Creswick, and several minor painters, all of whom found me attentive

to the lessons they gave me on their own excellences and led me no

farther, but it also brought me into contact with a painter of a

higher and more serious order, J.B. Pyne, one of the few thinkers and

impartial critics I found amongst the English painters. Every Sunday I

went out to Pyne's house in Fulham, walking the six or seven miles

in the morning and spending the day there. Kitchen-gardens and green

fields then lay between Kensington and Fulham where are now the

museums, and there the larks sang and the hawthorn bloomed. After an

early dinner we passed the afternoon in talk on art and artists. Pyne

was one of the best talkers on art I ever knew, and a critic of very

great lucidity; his art had great qualities and as great defects, but

in comparison with some of the favorites of the public of that day he

was a giant, and in certain technical qualities he had no equal in

his generation except Turner. He had the dangerous tendency, for

an artist, of putting everything he did under the protection and

direction of a theory--a course which invariably checks the fertility

of technical resource, and which in his case had the unfortunate

effect of causing him to be regarded as a mere theorist, whose work

was done by line and rule. But I had good reason to know that Turner

thought more highly of him than the English public, and I am convinced

that as time goes on and his pictures acquire the mellowness of

tone for which he carefully calculated in his method and choice of

material, he will be more highly esteemed than in his own time, and

that the careful and systematic technique which characterized his

work, and which is so opposed to the random and hypothetically

inspired methods that are the admiration of a half-educated public,

will find its true appreciation in the future.

Of all the English artists of that day with whom I became acquainted,

Pyne impressed me as by a considerable measure the broadest thinker,

and, except Turner in his water-color, the ablest landscape painter;

old John Linnell in this respect standing nearest him in technical

power, with a more complete devotion to nature and her sentiment. In

Harding's work I took no interest; his conventions and tricks of

the brush repelled me, and generally his work left me cold and

discouraged, for this is the effect of wasted cleverness, that it

disheartens a man who, knowing that his abilities are less, finds the

achievement of cleverer men so poor in what satisfies the artist

of feeling. In it I saw an exaggeration of Pyne's defects and the

caricature of his good qualities. Creswick had a better feeling for

nature, but convention in his methods gave place to trick, and I

remember his showing me the way in which he produced detail in a

pebbly brookside, by making the surface of his canvas tacky and then

dragging over it a brush loaded with pigment which caught only on

the prominences, and did in a moment the work of an hour of faithful

painting.

A painter who taught me more than any other at that time was Edward

Wehnert, mainly known then as an illustrator, and hardly remembered

now even in that capacity. Attracted by one of his water-colors, I

went to him for lessons, which he declined to give, while really

giving me instructions informally and in the most kindly and generous

way, during the entire stay I made in London. Among all the artists I

have known, Wehnert's life was, with the exception of Sexton's, the

most pathetic. His native abilities were of a very high order, and

his education far above that which the British artist of that day

possessed. He was a pupil of Paul Delaroche, and the German blood

he had from his father gave him an imaginative element which the

Englishman in him liberated entirely from the German prescriptive

limitations, while there was just enough of the German poet in him to

give his design a sentiment which was entirely lacking in the English

figure painting of that day. He painted in both oil and water-color,

with a facility of design I have never known surpassed, making at a

single sitting, and without a model, a drawing with many figures. He

was at the moment I knew him engaged in illustrating Grimm's stories,

for a paltry compensation, but, as it seemed to me, in a spirit the

most completely concordant with the stories of all the illustrations I

have ever seen of that folk-lore.

Wehnert had several sisters, who had been accustomed to a certain ease

in life, and to maintain this all his efforts and those of a bachelor

brother were devoted, to the sacrifice of his legitimate ambitions;

he was overworked with the veriest hack-work of his profession, and

I never knew him but as a jaded man. He was a graduate of Göttingen,

widely read and well taught in all that related to his art as well as

in literature, and I used to sit much with him while he worked, and

most of my evenings were passed in the family. The sisters were women

who had been of the world, clever, accomplished, and with a restricted

and most interesting circle of friends; but over the whole family

there rested an air of tragic gravity, as if of some past which could

never be spoken of and into which I never felt inclined to inquire.

Among the memories of my first stay in London the Wehnerts awaken the

tenderest, for through many years they proved the dearest and kindest

of friends. And the hospitality of London, wherever I found access to

it, was unmeasured--the kindly feeling which showed itself to a young

and unknown student without recommendation or achievement made on me

an indelible impression. I now and then found people who asked me

where I had learned to speak English, or if all the people in the

section from which I came were as white as I was; but except in a

single case, that of a lady who proposed to make me responsible for

slavery in the United States, I never found anything but friendship

and courtesy, and generally the friendliness took the form of active

interest.

Most of my time was passed in hunting up pictures by Turner, and

of course I made the early acquaintance of Griffiths, a dealer in

pictures, who was Turner's special agent, and at whose gallery were to

be seen such of his pictures as he wished to sell,--for no inducement

could be offered which would make him dispose of some of them.

Griffiths told me that in his presence an American collector, James

Lenox, of New York, after offering Turner £5000, which was refused,

for the Old "Téméraire," offered him a blank check, which was also

rejected. Griffiths's place became one of my most common resorts,

for Griffiths was less a picture dealer than a passionate admirer of

Turner, and seemed to have drifted into his business through his love

for the artist's pictures; and to share in his admiration for Turner

was to gain his cordial friendship.

Here I first saw Ruskin and was introduced to him. I was looking at

some little early drawings of Turner, when a gentleman entered the

gallery, and, after a conversation between them, Griffiths came to

me and asked if I should not like to be presented to the author of

"Modern Painters," to which I naturally replied in the affirmative. I

could hardly believe my eyes, expecting to find in him something of

the fire, enthusiasm, and dogmatism of his book, and seeing only a

gentleman of the most gentle type, blonde, refined, and with as little

self-assertion or dogmatic tone as was possible consistently with the

holding of his own opinions; suggesting views rather than asserting

them, and as if he had not himself come to a conclusion on the subject

of conversation. A delightful and to me instructive conversation ended

in an invitation to visit his father's collection of drawings and

pictures at Denmark Hill, and later to spend the evening at his own

house in Grosvenor Street. After the lapse of forty-eight years, it

is difficult to distinguish between the incidents which took place in

this first visit to England in 1850 and those belonging to another a

little later, but my impression is very strong that it was during the

former that I spent the evening at the Grosvenor Street residence, at

which I met several artists of Ruskin's intimacy, and amongst them

G.F. Watts. I then saw Mrs. Ruskin, and I have a very vivid impression

of her personal beauty. I remember saying to a friend, to whom I spoke

of the visit just after, that she was the most beautiful woman I

had seen in England. As I approached the house there was a bagpiper

playing near it, and the pipes entered into the conversation in the

drawing-room. On my making some very disparaging opinion of their

music, which I heard for the first time, Mrs. Ruskin flamed up with

indignation, but, after an annihilating look, she said mildly, "I

suppose no Southerner can understand the pipes," and we discussed them

calmly, she telling some stories to illustrate their power and the

special range of their effect.

At that time Ruskin held very strong Calvinistic notions, and as I

kept my Puritanism unshaken we had as many conversations on religion

as on art, the two being then to me almost identical and to him

closely related. I remember his saying once, in speaking of the

doctrine of foreordination (to me a dreadful bugbear), as I was

drinking a glass of sherry, that he "believed that it had been

ordained from all eternity whether I should set that glass down empty

or without finishing the wine." This was to me the most perplexing

problem of all that Ruskin put before me, for it was the first time

that the doctrine of Calvin had come before me in a concrete form.

Another incident gave me a serious perplexity as to the accuracy of

Ruskin's perceptions of nature. Leslie had given me a card to see Mr.

Holford's collection of pictures, in which was one of Turner's, the

balcony scene in Venice, called, I think, "Juliet and her Nurse." It

was a moonlight, with the most wonderful rendering of a certain effect

seen with the moon at the spectator's back, and I noted in speaking to

Ruskin, later on, that no other picture I had ever seen of moonlight

had succeeded so fully in realizing it, to which he replied that he

had never noticed that it was a moonlight picture; but when I called

his attention to the display of fireworks on the Grand Canal, he

admitted that it was not customary to let off fireworks by day, and

that it must be a night scene.

My acquaintance with Ruskin lasted with varying degrees of intimacy,

and some interruptions due to his sympathy with the South during the

civil war and bitterness against our government, till 1870, when it

was terminated by a trivial personal incident to which his morbid

state of mind at that time gave a false color. We separated more and

more widely in our opinions on art in later years, and the differences

came to me reluctantly, for my reverence for the man was never to be

shaken, while my study of art showed me finally that, however correct

his views of the ethics of art might be, from the point of view of

pure art he was entirely mistaken, and all that his influence had done

for me had to be undone before any true progress could be made. What

little I had learned from the artists I knew had been in the main

correct, and had aided to show me the true road, but the teaching of

"Modern Painters," and of Ruskin himself later, was in the end fatal

to the career to which I was then devoted, for I was unable to get

back to the dividing of the ways.

But the first mistake was my own. What I needed was practical study,

the training of the hand, for my head had already gone so far beyond

my technical attainment that I had entered into the fatal condition of

having theories beyond my practice. My execution was so far in arrear

of my perceptions of what should be in the result, that instead of

the delight with which I had, untaught, and in my stolen hours, given

myself to painting, I felt the weight of my technical shortcomings so

heavily as to make my work full of distress instead of that content

with which the artist should always work. Everything became conscious

effort and the going was too much uphill. I had always been groping my

own way, scarcely as much assisted by the fragmentary good advice I

received as laid under heavier disabilities by the better knowledge of

what should be done. In art education the training of the hand should,

I am persuaded, always be kept in advance of the thinking powers, so

that the young student should feel that his ideal is just before him

if not at his finger's end. That this is so rarely the case with

art students in our day is, I am convinced, the chief reason of the

technical inferiority of our modern painters and the root of the

inferiority of modern art. The artist does not begin early enough.

I was already belated, and every advance I made in the study of the

theory of art put me farther behind, practically.

The hope of getting much technical instruction from competent masters

in England was speedily dispelled. Lessons in water-color I could get

at a guinea an hour, and to enter as a pupil with one of the better

painters was impossible. Pyne received from his pupils £100 a month. I

had calculated how far I could mate my fifty pounds go and put it at

six months. By the advice of Wehnert, I applied to Charles Davidson, a

member of the New Water-Color Society, for instruction, and went down

into Surrey, where he lived, to be able to follow him in his work

from nature. He lived at Red Hill, and in the immediate vicinity John

Linnell had built his then new home. In the few weeks I lived there I

saw a great deal of the old man, one of the most remarkable examples

of the old English type I have ever known, and to me as interesting a

problem from the religious point of view as from the artistic. Barring

differences of the creed, of which I knew and cared nothing (for my

own religious horizon had always included all "good-willing men," and

I had no conception of the distinctions of creed which would send on

one side of the line of safety an Established Churchman and on the

other a Nonconformist), we agreed very well, and in the general

impression I set Linnell down as a devout Christian of the Cromwellian

type, and he certainly was a man of remarkable intellectual powers,

both in art and in theology. His Christianity might have taken a form

of less domestic sternness, but I remembered my own father too well

to find it inconsistent with genuine piety, though not even my mother

ever inspired the awe Linnell and his religious severity excited in

me.

Linnell's landscape seemed to me the full expression of a healthy

love of nature, possible only to a moral sanity in the man--a cheery

Wordsworthian enjoyment of her, which as a rule I have never found

in perfection out of the English school and its derivatives; the

outpouring of a robust nature which prefers to see the outer world

with the spectacles of no school, and through the memory of no other

man; not self-taught in the sense of owing nothing to another mind,

but in the sense that what he had learned he had digested and

forgotten except as a chance word in the universal gospel of art;

technically weak, slovenly in style, but eminently successful in

telling the story he had to tell. Even then, with my limited knowledge

of painting, he seemed to me to furnish the antithesis to Pyne,--one

too careful of style and running to excessive precision, the other too

negligent and running into indecision; and this judgment still holds.

Of Davidson, my immediate teacher, there was only to be got certain

ways of doing certain things, limited to the elements of landscape;

how to wash in the sky, to treat foliage in masses, and those tricks

of the brush in which the English water-color school abounds; but no

larger views, or more individual, of art itself. What he taught was,

perhaps, what I most needed to learn, but I was already too far on the

way to learn it easily.

I made a visit of ten days to Paris and saw with great profit the work

of the landscape painters and of Delacroix, the other figure painters

in general not interesting me much. I carried a letter of introduction

from the Wehnerts to Mademoiselle Didot, the daughter of Firmin Didot,

the famous publisher, then an old blind man, but one of the most

interesting Frenchmen I ever knew, as Mademoiselle Didot was the most

brilliant Frenchwoman. The old man was much interested in what I had

to say of America, and he paid us the national compliment of saying

that we spoke English more intelligibly than Englishmen in general. As

I spoke no French, our conversation was in English, and he understood

me perfectly, though he said he rarely could follow without difficulty

the conversation of an Englishman, while Americans in general he

understood readily. To accomplish all that I did with my fifty pounds

it may be easily understood that I had to cut my corners close, and

in fact they were so closely cut in my Continental excursion that I

landed at Newhaven on my return with one shilling in my pocket,

and when, at the end of my stay in England, I took the train for

Liverpool, I had only sixpence (my passage being provided for), and my

good friend Delf, who saw me off, on finding the state of my purse,

insisted at the railway station on my taking a sovereign for

contingencies.

This habit of making no provision for accidents had been a part of my

moral training, the faith in the overruling Providence never forsaking

me for an instant, so that, whatever I set about to do, I made no

provision for accidents. To go ahead and do what I thought I ought to

do, and let the consequences take care of themselves, has been the

habit of mind in which I have always worked and probably still work.

If the thing to be done was right, I never thought of what might come

after, or even whether I had the means to carry a resolution into

effect, taking it for granted that the means would be provided because

the thing was to be done. I retain the distinct recollection of an

expression of my mother while I was making preparations for this first

voyage to Europe, and she was packing my clothes for the voyage and

her lips were silently moving and the slow tears running down her

cheeks. She said in her low and murmuring voice as if in comment on

her prayer, "Oh! no, he is too pure-hearted," and I knew that the

prayer was for my protection from the temptations of that world of

which she only knew the terrors and dangers from her Bible, and

that she was so wrapt in her spiritual yearnings that she had quite

forgotten my presence. Poor mother! I never deserved the great trust

she had in me, but the memory of that moment has served me in many

devious moments to keep me in the path. But if I had no such virtues

as those which she attributed to me, I had what was perhaps more

potent, the intuitions which I inherited from her, and such as often

take a man out of temptation before he is aware of its strength,

and before it becomes a real danger; nor can any man remember such

confidence on the part of his mother without, from very shame, if no

sterner motive should exist, maintaining a higher tone of life.

I did not leave London without a sight of Turner himself, due to the

friendly forethought of Griffiths, who so appreciated my enthusiasm

for the old man that he lost no opportunity to satisfy it. Turner was

taken ill while I was on this visit, with an attack of the malady

which later killed him, and I had begged Griffiths to ask him to let

me come and nurse him. He declined the offer, but was not, Griffiths

told me, quite unmoved by it. One day, after his recovery, I received

a message from Griffiths to say that Turner was coming to the gallery

at a certain hour on a business appointment, and if I would happen in

just before the time fixed for it I might see him.

At the appointed hour Turner came and found me in an earnest study

of the pictures in the farther end of the gallery, where I remained,

unnoticing and unnoticed, until a sign from Griffiths called me up.

He then introduced me as a young American artist who had a great

admiration for his work, and who, being about to return home, would

be glad to take him by the hand. It was difficult to reconcile my

conception of the great artist with this little, and, to casual

observation, insignificant old man with a nose like an eagle's beak,

though a second sight showed that his eye, too, was like an eagle's,

bright, restless, and penetrating. Half awed and half surprised, I

held out my hand. He put his behind him, regarding me with a humorous,

malicious look, saying nothing. Confused, and not a little mortified,

I turned away, and, walking down the gallery, went to studying the

pictures again. When I looked his way again, a few minutes later, he

held out his hand to me, and we entered into a conversation which

lasted until Griffiths gave me a hint that Turner had business to

transact which I must leave him to. He gave me a hearty handshake,

and in his oracular way said, "Hmph--(nod) if you come to England

again--hmph (nod)--hmph (nod)," and another hand-shake with more

cordiality and a nod for good-by. I never saw a keener eye than his,

and the way that he held himself up, so straight that he seemed almost

to lean backwards, with his forehead thrown forward, and the piercing

eyes looking out from under their heavy brows, and his diminutive

stature coupled with the imposing bearing, combined to make a very

peculiar and vivid impression on me. Griffiths afterwards translated

his laconism for me as an invitation to come to see him if I ever came

back to England, and added that though he was in the worst of tempers

when he came in, and made him expect that I should be insulted, he

was in fact unusually cordial, and he had never seen him receive a

stranger with such friendliness except in the case of Cattermole, for

whom he had a strong liking. In the conversation we had during the

interview, I alluded to our good fortune in having already in America

one of the pictures of his best period, a seacoast sunset in the

possession of Mr. Lenox, and Turner exclaimed, "I wish they were all

put in a blunderbuss and shot off!" but he looked pleased at the

simultaneous outburst of protest on the part of Griffiths and myself.

When I went back to England for another visit he was dead.

I may frankly say as to Turner's art, that I enjoyed most the

water-colors of the middle period, though the latest gave me another

kind of delight,--that of the reading of a fairy-story, of the

building of glorious castles in the air in my younger days, that of

something to desire and despair of. The drawings of the England and

Wales series in the possession of Ruskin seemed to my critical

faculty the _ne plus ultra_ of water-color painting,--especially the

"Llanthony Abbey," of which I recall those early impressions with the

greatest distinctness[1]. I saw in the Academy Exhibition the last

pictures he ever exhibited, some whaling subjects, fresh from his

retouching of two days before, gorgeous dreams of color art, but only

dreams--the actuality had all gone out. I saw them years after when

they had become mere wrecks, hardly recognizable.

[Footnote 1: I saw it again in the Guildhall Exhibition of 1899.]

I saw also that year a picture by Rossetti and one by Millais, and the

latter impressed me very strongly; in fact it determined me in the

manner in which I should follow art on my return home. I did not and

could not put it on the same plane as the "Llanthony Abbey," but the

straight thrust for the truth was evidently the shortest way to

a certain excellence, and this of the kind most akin to my own

faculties, and I said to Delf, who was with me at the exhibition

of the Academy, that if ever English figure painting rose out of

mediocrity it would be through the work of the P.R.B. My impression is

that the picture was the "Christ in the Carpenter's Shop," but of this

I cannot be sure, though I am certain that it was in the exhibition of

1850. The Rossetti was in the old "National Society," and was either

the "Childhood of the Virgin Mary" or the "White Lady." Beautiful as

it was, it did not impress me as did the temper of Millais's work,

the scrupulous conscientiousness of which chimed with my Puritan

education. I left England with a fermentation of art ideas in my

brain, in which the influence of Turner and Pyne, the teachings

of Wehnert, and the work of the Pre-Raphaelites mingled with the

influence of Ruskin, and especially the preconception of art work

derived from the descriptions, often strangely misleading, of the

"Modern Painters."

I received from my brother, as I had anticipated, the order for a

passage on the Atlantic, one of the Collins line of steamers, and one

of my fellow-passengers was Jenny Lind, on her way for her first visit

to America under the guidance of Barnum. She gave a concert on board

for the benefit of the firemen and sailors, and to this the half of

Delf's sovereign contributed, the other half going for a bottle of

Rhine wine, to return the compliment of my next neighbor at the table,

who had invited me to take a glass of wine one day. Thus, as usual, I

landed penniless from my venture, but fortunately found my brother on

the wharf expecting the arrival of the steamer, her trips having

been made with such precision that the hour of arrival was generally

anticipated correctly. In those days the steamers were rarely driven,

and a voyage of fourteen days was not considered a bad one. A day's

run of 336 knots was a triumph of steaming and rarely attained. But

we were at the beginning of the contest between the Collins and the

Cunard steamers, and up to that time the American line had generally a

little the better of it.

The rest of that year and the year following were given to hard and

monotonous painting from nature while the weather permitted, and in

the winter to working out clumsily the mysteries of picture-making, a

work which, as I was without direction or any correct appreciation of

what I had it in me to do, became a drudgery which I went through as

an indispensable duty, but with no satisfaction. My larger studies

from nature (25x30 inches) had attracted attention and had been hung

on the line, getting for me the election to the Associateship of

Design, and the appellation of the "American Pre-Raphaelite,"--all

which for a man so lately embarked in the profession was considered a

high honor, as it really was. But the success only confirmed me in my

incorrect views of art and carried me farther from the true path. As

studies from nature, the fidelity and completeness of them, even

in comparison with Durand's, was something which the conventional

landscape known then and there had never approached, and to the

respectable amateurs of that day they were puzzles. In one of them,

a study of a wood scene with a spring of water overshadowed by a

beech-tree, all painted at close quarters, I had transplanted a violet

which I wanted in the near foreground, so as to be sure that it was in

correct light and proportion. This was in the spirit of the Ruskinian

doctrine, of which I made myself the apostle. On that study I spent

such hours of the day as the light served, for three months, and then

the coming of autumn stopped me. Any difficulty in literal rendering

of a subject was incomprehensible to me, and in fact in that kind of

work there is little difference, for it is but copying, and requires

only a correct eye and infinite patience, both of which I had; and it

was a puzzle to me rather than a compliment when the veteran Durand

said to me of one of my studies, that it was a subject he would not

have dared attack on account of the difficulty of the effect of light,

for to me it was simply a question of time and sticking to it. It was

not art, but the public did not know it any more than I did, and I was

admitted to a place which I believe was one of the highest amongst

my contemporaries at home in a way that led to little even in its

complete success. I influenced some of my contemporaries and gave a

jog to the landscape painting of the day, and there it ended, through

a diversion of my ambition to another sphere, but there it must have

ended; even if I had never been so diverted.

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