afternoon. The wind blew hard all day. A boat from Fort Pierre
containing two men passed us, bound for Fort Vermilion; one of them
was Mr. Charity, one of the Company's associate traders. The boat was
somewhat of a curiosity, being built in the form of a scow; but
instead of being made of wood, had only a frame, covered with Buffalo
skins with the hair on. They had been nine days coming 150 miles,
detained every day, more or less, by Indians. Mr. Charity gave me some
leather prepared for moccasins--for a consideration, of course. We
have seen Buffaloes, etc., but the most important animal to us was one
of Townsend's Hare.[298] We shot four Meadow-larks [_Sturnella
neglecta_] that have, as I said, other songs and notes than ours, but
could not establish them as new. We procured a Red-shafted Woodpecker,
two Sparrow-hawks, two Arkansas Flycatchers, a Blue Grosbeak, saw
Say's Flycatcher, etc. I went on shore with Harris's small
double-barrelled gun, and the first shot I had was pretty near killing
me; the cone blew off, and passed so near my ear that I was stunned,
and fell down as if shot, and afterwards I was obliged to lie down for
several minutes. I returned on board, glad indeed that the accident
was no greater. We passed this afternoon bluffs of sulphur, almost
pure to look at, and a patch that has burnt for two years in
succession. Alum was found strewn on the shores. A toad was brought,
supposed to be new by Harris and Bell. We landed for the night on an
island so thick with underbrush that it was no easy matter to walk
through; perhaps a hundred Buffalo calves were dead in it, and the
smell was not pleasant, as you may imagine. The boat of Mr. Charity
went off when we reached the shore, after having escaped from the bar.
We have seen more White Wolves this day, and few Antelopes. The whole
country is trodden down by the heavy Buffaloes, and this renders the
walking both fatiguing and somewhat dangerous. The garlic of this
country has a red blossom, otherwise it looks much like ours; when
Buffalo have fed for some time on this rank weed, their flesh cannot
be eaten.
[Illustration: FACSIMILE OF A PAGE OF THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNAL.
REDUCED ONE THIRD.]
_May 25, Thursday._ The weather looked cloudy, and promised much rain
when we rose this morning at five o'clock; our men kept busy cutting
and bringing wood until six, when the "Omega" got under way. It began
raining very soon afterwards and it has continued to this present
moment. The dampness brought on a chilliness that made us have fires
in each of the great cabins. Michaux brought me two specimens of
_Neotoma floridana_, so young that their eyes were not open. The nest
was found in the hollow of a tree cut down for firewood. Two or three
miles above us, we saw three Mackinaw barges on the shore, just such
as I have described before; all these belonged to the (so-called)
Opposition Company of C. Bolton, Fox, Livingstone & Co., of New York,
and therefore we passed them without stopping; but we had to follow
their example a few hundred yards above them, for we had to stop also;
and then some of the men came on board, to see and talk to their old
acquaintances among our extraordinary and motley crew of trappers and
_engages_. On the roofs of the barges lay much Buffalo meat, and on
the island we left this morning probably some hundreds of these poor
animals, mostly young calves, were found dead at every few steps; and
since then we have passed many dead as well as many groups of living.
In one place we saw a large gang swimming across the river; they
fortunately reached a bank through which they cut their way towards
the hills, and marched slowly and steadily on, paying no attention to
our boat, as this was far to the lee of them. At another place on the
west bank, we saw eight or ten, or perhaps more, Antelopes or Deer of
some kind or other, but could not decide whether they were the one or
the other. These animals were all lying down, which would be contrary
to the general habit of our common Deer, which never lie down during
rain, that I am aware of. We have had an extremely dull day of it, as
one could hardly venture out of the cabin for pleasure. We met with
several difficulties among sand-bars. At three o'clock we passed the
entrance into the stream known as White River;[299] half an hour ago
we were obliged to land, and send the yawl to try for the channel, but
we are now again on our way, and have still the hope of reaching Great
Cedar Island[300] this evening, where we must stop to cut
wood.--_Later._ Our attempt to reach the island I fear will prove
abortive, as we are once more at a standstill for want of deeper
water, and the yawl has again gone ahead to feel for a channel. Within
the last mile or so, we must have passed upwards of a hundred drowned
young Buffalo calves, and many large ones. I will await the moment
when we must make fast somewhere, as it is now past eight o'clock. The
rain has ceased, and the weather has the appearance of a better day
to-morrow, overhead at least. Now it is after nine o'clock; we are
fastened to the shore, and I will, for the first time since I left St.
Louis, sleep in my cabin, and between sheets.
_May 26, Friday._ The weather was fine, but we moved extremely slowly,
not having made more than ten miles by twelve o'clock. The captain
arranged all his papers for Fort Pierre. Three of the best walkers,
well acquainted with the road, were picked from among our singularly
mixed crew of _engages_, and were put ashore at Big Bend Creek, on the
banks of a high cliff on the western side; they ascended through a
ravine, and soon were out of sight. We had stopped previously to cut
wood, where our men had to lug it fully a quarter of a mile. We
ourselves landed of course, but found the prairie so completely
trodden by Buffaloes that it was next to impossible to walk.
Notwithstanding this, however, a few birds were procured. The boat
continued on with much difficulty, being often stopped for the want of
water. At one place we counted over a hundred dead Buffalo calves; we
saw a great number, however, that did reach the top of the bank, and
proceeded to feeding at once. We saw one animal, quite alone, wading
and swimming alternately, till it had nearly crossed the river, when
for reasons unknown to us, and when only about fifty yards from the
land, it suddenly turned about, and swam and waded back to the western
side, whence it had originally come; this fellow moved through the
water as represented in this very imperfect sketch, which I have
placed here, and with his tail forming nearly half a circle by its
erection during the time he swam. It was mired on several occasions
while passing from one shoal or sand-bar to another. It walked,
trotted, or galloped, while on the solid beach, and ultimately, by
swimming a few hundred yards, returned to the side from whence it had
started, though fully half a mile below the exact spot. There now was
heard on board some talk about the _Great Bend_, and the captain
asked me whether I would like to go off and camp, and await his
arrival on the other side to-morrow. I assured him that nothing would
give us more pleasure, and he gave us three stout young men to go with
us to carry our blankets, provisions, etc., and to act as guides and
hunters. All was ready by about five of the afternoon, when Harris,
Bell, Sprague, and I, as well as the three men, were put ashore; and
off we went at a brisk walk across a beautiful, level prairie, whereon
in sundry directions we could see small groups of Buffaloes, grazing
at leisure. Proceeding along, we saw a great number of Cactus, some
Bartram Sandpipers, and a Long-billed Curlew. Presently we observed a
village of prairie Marmots, _Arctomys [Cynomys] ludovicianus_, and two
or three of our party diverged at once to pay them their respects. The
mounds which I passed were very low indeed; the holes were opened, but
I saw not one of the owners. Harris, Bell, and Michaux, I believe,
shot at some of them, but killed none, and we proceeded on, being
somewhat anxious to pitch our camp for the night before dark.
Presently we reached the hills and were surprised at their
composition; the surface looked as if closely covered with small
broken particles of coal, whilst the soil was of such greasy or soapy
nature, that it was both painful and fatiguing to ascend them. Our
guides assured us that such places were never in any other condition,
or as they expressed it, were "never dry." Whilst travelling about
these remarkable hills, Sprague saw one of Townsend's Hare, and we
started the first and only Prairie Hen we have seen since our
departure from St. Louis. Gradually we rose on to the very uppermost
crest of the hills we had to cross, and whilst reposing ourselves for
some minutes we had the gratification of seeing around us one of the
great panoramas this remarkable portion of our country affords. There
was a vast extent of country beneath and around us. Westward rose the
famous Medicine Hill, and in the opposite direction were the
wanderings of the Missouri for many miles, and from the distance we
were then from it, the river appeared as if a small, very circuitous
streamlet. The Great Bend was all in full view, and its course almost
resembled that of a chemist's retort, being formed somewhat like the
scratch of my pen thus:--
[Illustration]
The walk from our landing crossing the prairies was quite four miles,
whilst the distance by water is computed to be twenty-six. From the
pinnacle we stood on, we could see the movements of our boat quite
well, and whilst the men were employed cutting wood for her engines,
we could almost count every stroke of their axes, though fully two
miles distant, as the crow flies. As we advanced we soon found
ourselves on the ridges leading us across the Bend, and plainly saw
that we were descending towards the Missouri once more. _Chemin
faisant_, we saw four Black-tailed Deer, a shot at which Michaux or
Bell, who were in advance, might perhaps have had, had not Harris and
Sprague taken a route across the declivity before them, and being
observed by these keen-sighted animals, the whole made off at once. I
had no fair opportunity of witnessing their movements; but they looked
swiftness itself, combined with grace. They were not followed, and we
reached the river at a spot which evidently had been previously camped
on by Indians; here we made our minds up to stop at once, and arrange
for the night, which now promised to be none of the fairest. One man
remained with us to prepare the camp, whilst Michaux and the others
started in search of game, as if blood-hounds. Meantime we lighted a
large and glowing fire, and began preparing some supper. In less than
half an hour Michaux was seen to return with a load on his back, which
proved to be a fine young buck of the Black-tailed Deer. This
produced animation at once. I examined it carefully, and Harris and
Sprague returned promptly from the point to which they had gone. The
darkness of the night, contrasting with the vivid glare of our fire,
which threw a bright light on the skinning of the Deer, and was
reflected on the trunks and branches of the cottonwood trees, six of
them in one clump, almost arising from the same root, gave such superb
effect that I retired some few steps to enjoy the truly fine picture.
Some were arranging their rough couches, whilst others were engaged in
carrying wood to support our fire through the night; some brought
water from the great, muddy stream, and others were busily at work
sharpening long sticks for skewers, from which large pieces of venison
were soon seen dropping their rich juices upon the brightest of
embers. The very sight of this sharpened our appetites, and it must
have been laughable to see how all of us fell to, and ate of this
first-killed Black-tailed Deer. After a hearty meal we went to sleep,
one and all, under the protection of God, and not much afraid of
Indians, of whom we have not seen a specimen since we had the pleasure
of being fired on by the Santees. We slept very well for a while, till
it began to sprinkle rain; but it was only a very slight shower, and I
did not even attempt to shelter myself from it. Our fires were mended
several times by one or another of the party, and the short night
passed on, refreshing us all as only men can be refreshed by sleep
under the sky, breathing the purest of air, and happy as only a clear
conscience can make one.
[Illustration: VIEW ON THE MISSOURI RIVER, ABOVE GREAT BEND.
FROM A WATER-COLOR DRAWING BY ISAAC SPRAGUE.]
_May 27, Saturday._ At half-past three this morning my ears were
saluted by the delightful song of the Red Thrush, who kept on with his
strains until we were all up. Harris and Bell went off, and as soon as
the two hunters had cleaned their rifles they followed. I remained in
camp with Sprague for a while; the best portions of the Deer, _i. e._,
the liver, kidneys, and tongue, were cooked for breakfast, which
all enjoyed. No Wolves had disturbed our slumbers, and we now started
in search of quadrupeds, birds, and adventures. We found several
plants, all new to me, and which are now in press. All the ravines
which we inspected were well covered by cedars of the red variety, and
whilst ascending several of the hills we found them in many parts
partially gliding down as if by the sudden effects of very heavy rain.
We saw two very beautiful Avocets [_Recurvirostra americana_] feeding
opposite our camp; we saw also a Hawk nearly resembling what is called
Cooper's Hawk, but having a white rump. Bell joined the hunters and
saw some thousands of Buffalo; and finding a very large bull within
some thirty yards of them, they put in his body three large balls. The
poor beast went off, however, and is now, in all probability, dead.
Many fossil remains have been found on the hills about us, but we saw
none. These hills are composed of limestone rocks, covered with much
shale. Harris thinks this is a different formation from that of either
St. Louis or Belle Vue--but, alas! we are not much of geologists. We
shot only one of Say's Flycatcher, and the Finch we have called
_Emberiza pallida_,[301] but of which I am by no means certain, for
want of more exact descriptions than those of a mere synopsis. Our
boat made its appearance at two o'clock; we had observed from the
hill-tops that it had been aground twice. At three our camp was broken
up, our effects removed, our fire left burning, and our boat having
landed for us, and for cutting cedar trees, we got on board, highly
pleased with our camping out, especially as we found all well on
board. We had not proceeded very far when the difficulties of
navigation increased so much that we grounded several times, and
presently saw a few Indians on the shore; our yawl was out sounding
for a passage amid the many sand-bars in view; the Indians fired, not
balls, but a salute, to call us ashore. We neared shore, and talked to
them; for, they proving to be Sioux, and our captain being a good
scholar in that tongue, there was no difficulty in so doing. He told
them to follow us, and that he would come-to. They ran to their horses
on the prairie, all of which stood still, and were good-looking,
comparatively speaking, leaped on their backs without saddles or
stirrups, and followed us with ease at a walk. They fired a second
salute as we landed; there were only four of them, and they are all at
this moment on board. They are fine-looking fellows; the captain
introduced Harris and me to the chief, and we shook hands all round.
They are a poor set of beggars after all. The captain gave them
supper, sugar and coffee, and about one pound of gunpowder, and the
chief coolly said: "What is the use of powder, without balls?" It is
quite surprising that these Indians did not see us last night, for I
have no doubt our fire could have been seen up and down the river for
nearly twenty miles. But we are told their lodges are ten miles
inland, and that may answer the question. I shall not be sorry now to
go to bed. Our camp of the _Six Trees_ is deserted and silent. The
captain is almost afraid he may be forced to leave half his cargo
somewhere near this, and proceed to Fort Pierre, now distant fifty
miles, and return for the goods. The Indians saw nothing of the three
men who were sent yesterday to announce our approach to Fort Pierre.
_Sunday, May 28._ This morning was beautiful, though cool. Our
visiting Indians left us at twelve last night, and I was glad enough
to be rid of these beggars by trade. Both shores were dotted by groups
of Buffaloes as far as the eye could reach, and although many were
near the banks they kept on feeding quietly till we nearly approached
them; those at the distance of half a mile never ceased their
avocations. A Gray Wolf was seen swimming across our bows, and some
dozens of shots were sent at the beast, which made it open its mouth
and raise its head, but it never stopped swimming away from us, as
fast as possible; after a while it reached a sand-bar, and immediately
afterwards first trotted, and then galloped off. Three Buffaloes also
crossed ahead of us, but at some distance; they all reached the shore,
and scrambled up the bank. We have run better this morning than for
three or four days, and if fortunate enough may reach Fort Pierre
sometime to-morrow. The prairies appear better now, the grass looks
green, and probably the poor Buffaloes will soon regain their flesh.
We have seen more than 2,000 this morning up to this moment--twelve
o'clock.
We reached Fort George[302] at about three this afternoon. This is
what is called the "Station of the Opposition line;" some Indians and
a few lodges are on the edge of the prairie. Sundry bales of Buffalo
robes were brought on board, and Major Hamilton, who is now acting
Indian agent here until the return of Major Crisp, came on board also.
I knew his father thirty-five years ago. He pointed out to us the
cabin on the opposite shore,[303] where a partner of the "Opposition
line" shot at and killed two white men and wounded two others, all of
whom were remarkable miscreants. We are about thirty miles below Fort
Pierre. Indians were seen on both sides the river, ready to trade both
here and at Fort Pierre, where I am told there are five hundred lodges
standing. The Indian dogs which I saw here so very closely resemble
wild Wolves, that I feel assured that if I was to meet with one of
them in the woods, I should most assuredly kill it as such. A few
minutes after leaving Fort George, we stopped to sound the channel,
and could not discover more than three and a half feet of water; our
captain told us we would proceed no farther this day, but would camp
here. Bell, Harris, and Sprague went off with guns; Squires and I
walked to Fort George, and soon met a young Englishman going towards
our boat on a "Buffalo Horse" at a swift gallop; but on being hailed
he reined up. His name was Illingsworth; he is the present manager of
this establishment. He welcomed us, and as he was going to see Captain
Sire, we proceeded on. Upon reaching the camp we found a strongly
built log cabin, in one end of which we met Mr. Cutting, who told me
he had known Victor [Audubon] in Cuba. This young gentleman had been
thrown from his horse in a recent Buffalo chase, and had injured one
foot so that he could not walk. A Buffalo cow had hooked the horse and
thrown the rider about twenty feet, although the animal had not been
wounded. We also met here a Mr. Taylor, who showed me the petrified
head of a Beaver, which he supposed to be that of a Wolf; but I showed
him the difference in the form at once. I saw two young Wolves about
six weeks old, of the common kind, alive. They looked well, but their
nature was already pretty apparently that of the parents. I saw an
abundance of semi-wolf Dogs, and their howlings were distressing to my
ear. We entered the lodge of a trader attached to our company, a
German, who is a clever man, has considerable knowledge of botany,
and draws well. There were about fifteen lodges, and we saw a greater
number of squaws and half-breed children than I had expected. But as
every clerk and agent belonging to the companies has "a wife," as it
is _called_, a spurious population soon exhibits itself around the
wigwams. I will not comment upon this here. We returned before dark to
our boat, and I am off to bed.
_Monday, May 29._ I was up early, and as soon as breakfast was over,
Major Hamilton and myself walked to Fort George. We found the three
gentlemen to whom I showed the plate of quadrupeds, and afterwards I
went to their store to see skins of Wolves and of the Swift Fox. I
found a tolerably good Fox skin which was at once given me; I saw what
I was assured were two distinct varieties (for I cannot call them
species) of Wolves. Both, however, considering the difference in size,
were old and young of the same variety. They both had the top of the
back dark gray, and the sides, belly, legs, and tail, nearly white.
When I have these two sorts in the flesh, I may derive further
knowledge. I looked at the Indian Dogs again with much attention, and
was assured that there is much cross breeding between these Dogs and
Wolves, and that all the varieties actually come from the same root.
Harris now joined us, and found he had met a brother of Mr. Cutting in
Europe. The gentlemen from the fort came back to the boat with us; we
gave them a luncheon, and later a good substantial dinner, the like of
which, so they told us, they had not eaten for many a day. Mr.
Illingsworth told us much about Buffaloes; he says the hunting is
usually more or less dangerous. The Porcupine is found hereabouts and
feeds on the leaves and bark as elsewhere, but not unfrequently
retires into the crevices of rocks, whenever no trees of large size
are to be found in its vicinity. Elks, at times, assemble in groups
of from fifty to two hundred, and their movements are as regular as
those of a flock of White Pelicans, so that if the oldest Elk starts
in any one direction, all the rest follow at once in his tracks. Where
he stops, they all stop, and at times all will suddenly pause, range
themselves as if a company of dragoons, ready to charge upon the
enemy; which, however, they seldom if ever attempt. After dinner Mr.
Illingsworth told me he would go and shoot a Buffalo calf for me--we
will see. Bell, Harris, Squires, and myself went off to shoot some
Prairie-dogs, as the _Arctomys ludovicianus_ is called. After walking
over the hills for about one mile, we came to the "village," and soon
after heard their cries but not their barkings. The sound they make is
simply a "chip, chip, chip," long and shrill enough, and at every cry
the animal jerks its tail, without however erecting it upright, as I
have seen them represented. Their holes are not perpendicular, but
oblique, at an angle of about forty degrees, after which they seem to
deviate; but whether sideways or upwards, I cannot yet say. I shot at
two of them, which appeared to me to be standing, not across their
holes, but in front of them. The first one I never saw after the shot;
the second I found dying at the entrance of the burrow, but at my
appearance it worked backwards. I drew my ramrod and put the end in
its mouth; this it bit hard but kept working backwards, and
notwithstanding my efforts, was soon out of sight and touch. Bell saw
two enter the same hole, and Harris three. Bell saw some standing
quite erect and leaping in the air to see and watch our movements. I
found, by lying down within twenty or thirty steps of the hole, that
they reappeared in fifteen or twenty minutes. This was the case with
me when I shot at the two I have mentioned. Harris saw one that, after
coming out of its hole, gave a long and somewhat whistling note, which
he thinks was one of invitation to its neighbors, as several came out
in a few moments. I have great doubts whether their cries are issued
at the appearance of danger or not. I am of opinion that they are a
mode of recognition as well as of amusement. I also think they feed
more at night than in the day. On my return to the boat, I rounded a
small hill and started a Prairie Wolf within a few steps of me. I was
unfortunately loaded with No. 3 shot. I pulled one trigger and then
the other, but the rascal went off as if unhurt for nearly a hundred
yards, when he stopped, shook himself rather violently, and I saw I
had hit him; but he ran off again at a very swift rate, his tail down,
stopped again, and again shook himself as before, after which he ran
out of my sight between the hills. Buffalo cows at this season
associate together, with their calves, but if pursued, leave the
latter to save themselves. The hides at present are not worth saving,
and the Indians as well as the white hunters, when they shoot a
Buffalo, tear off the hide, cut out the better portions of the flesh,
as well as the tongue, and leave the carcass to the Wolves and Ravens.
By the way, Bell saw a Magpie this day, and Harris killed two
Black-headed Grosbeaks. Bell also saw several Evening Grosbeaks
to-day; therefore there's not much need of crossing the Rocky
Mountains for the few precious birds that the talented and
truth-speaking Mr. ---- brought or sent to the well-paying Academy of
Natural Sciences of Philadelphia! The two men sent to Fort Pierre a
few days ago have returned, one this evening, in a canoe, the other
this afternoon, by land.