with their long front claws drawn underneath; at other times, they
move by slow leaping movements, and can travel backwards almost as
fast as forwards. When turned over they have much difficulty in
replacing themselves in their natural position, and you may see them
kicking with their legs and claws for a minute or two before they are
right. They bite severely, and do not hesitate to make towards their
enemies or assailants with open mouth, squealing like a rat. When they
fight among themselves they make great use of the nose in the manner
of hogs. They cannot travel faster than the slow walk of a man. They
feed frequently while seated on the rump, using their fore paws and
long claws somewhat like a squirrel. When sleeping they place the head
beneath the breast, and become round, and look like a ball of earth.
They clean their whiskers and body in the manner of Rats, Squirrels,
etc.
The four which I kept alive never drank anything, though water was
given to them. I fed them on potatoes, cabbages, carrots, etc. They
tried constantly to make their escape by gnawing at the floor, but in
vain. They slept wherever they found clothing, etc., and the rascals
cut the lining of my hunting-coat all to bits, so that I was obliged
to have it patched and mended. In one instance I had some clothes
rolled up for the washerwoman, and, on opening the bundle to count the
pieces, one of the fellows caught hold of my right thumb, with
fortunately a single one of its upper incisors, and hung on till I
shook it off, violently throwing it on the floor, where it lay as if
dead; but it recovered, and was as well as ever in less than half an
hour. They gnawed the leather straps of my trunks during the night,
and although I rose frequently to stop their work, they would begin
anew as soon as I was in bed again. I wrote and sent most of the above
to John Bachman from St. Louis, after I had finished my drawing of
four figures of these most strange and most interesting creatures.
And now to return to this day: When we reached Glasgow, we came in
under the stern of the "John Auld." As I saw several officers of the
United States army I bowed to them, and as they all knew that I was
bound towards the mighty Rocky Mountains, they not only returned my
salutations, but came on board, as well as Father de Smet.[258] They
all of them came to my room and saw specimens and skins. Among them
was Captain Clark,[259] who married the sister of Major Sandford, whom
you all know. They had lost a soldier overboard, two had deserted, and
a fourth was missing. We proceeded on until about ten o'clock, and it
was not until the 2d of May that we actually reached Independence.
_May 2._ It stopped raining in the night while I was sound asleep, and
at about one o'clock we did arrive at Independence, distant about 379
miles from St. Louis.[260] Here again was the "John Auld," putting out
freight for the Santa Fe traders, and we saw many of their wagons. Of
course I exchanged a hand-shake with Father de Smet and many of the
officers I had seen yesterday. Mr. Meeks, the agent of Colonel Veras,
had 148 pounds of tow in readiness for us, and I drew on the Chouteaux
for $30.20, for we were charged no less than 121/2 to 25 cts. per pound;
but this tow might have passed for fine flax, and I was well
contented. We left the "Auld," proceeded on our way, and stopped at
Madame Chouteau's plantation, where we put out some freight for Sir
William Stuart. The water had been two feet deep in her house, but the
river has now suddenly fallen about six feet. At Madame Chouteau's I
saw a brother of our friend Pierre Chouteau, Senr., now at New York,
and he gave me some news respecting the murder of Mr. Jarvis. About
twenty picked men of the neighborhood had left in pursuit of the
remainder of the marauders, and had sent one of their number back,
with the information that they had remained not two miles from the
rascally thieves and murderers. I hope they will overtake them all,
and shoot them on the spot. We saw a few Squirrels, and Bell killed
two Parrakeets.
_May 3._ We ran all last night and reached Fort Leavenworth at six
this morning. We had an early breakfast, as we had intended to walk
across the Bend; but we found that the ground was overflowed, and that
the bridges across two creeks had been carried away, and reluctantly
we gave up our trip. I saw two officers who came on board, also a Mr.
Ritchie. The situation of the fort is elevated and fine, and one has a
view of the river up and down for some distance. Seeing a great number
of Parrakeets, we went after them; Bell killed one. Unfortunately my
gun snapped twice, or I should have killed several more. We saw
several Turkeys on the ground and in the trees early this morning. On
our reaching the landing, a sentinel dragoon came to watch that no one
tried to escape.
After leaving this place we fairly entered the Indian country on the
west side of the river, for the State of Missouri, by the purchase of
the Platte River country, continues for about 250 miles further on the
east side, where now we see the only settlements. We saw a good number
of Indians in the woods and on the banks, gazing at us as we passed;
these are, however, partly civilized, and are miserable enough. Major
Mason, who commands here at present, is ill, and I could not see him.
We saw several fine horses belonging to different officers. We soon
passed Watson, which is considered the head of steam navigation.
In attempting to pass over a shallow, but a short, cut, we grounded on
a bar at five o'clock; got off, tried again, and again grounded
broadside; and now that it is past six o'clock all hands are busily
engaged in trying to get the boat off, but with what success I cannot
say. To me the situation is a bad one, as I conceive that as we remain
here, the washings of the muddy sands as they float down a powerful
current will augment the bar on the weather side (if I may so express
myself) of the boat. We have seen another Turkey and many Parrakeets,
as well as a great number of burrows formed by the "Siffleurs," as our
French Canadians call all and every species of Marmots; Bell and I
have concluded that there must be not less than twenty to thirty of
these animals for one in any portion of the Atlantic States. We saw
them even around the open grounds immediately about Fort Leavenworth.
About half-past seven we fortunately removed our boat into somewhat
deeper water, by straightening her bows against the stream, and this
was effected by fastening our very long cable to a snag above us,
about 200 yards; and now, if we can go backwards and reach the deep
waters along shore a few hundred yards below, we shall be able to make
fast there for the night. Unfortunately it is now raining hard, the
lightning is vivid, and the appearance of the night forbidding.
_Thursday, May 4._ We had constant rain, lightning and thunder last
night. This morning, at the dawn of day, the captain and all hands
were at work, and succeeded in removing the boat several hundred yards
below where she had struck; but unfortunately we got fast again before
we could reach deep water, and all the exertions to get off were
renewed, and at this moment, almost nine, we have a line fastened to
the shore and expect to be afloat in a short time. But I fear that we
shall lose most of the day before we leave this shallow, intricate,
and dangerous channel.
At ten o'clock we found ourselves in deep water, near the shore on the
west side. We at once had the men at work cutting wood, which was
principally that of ash-trees of moderate size, which wood was brought
on board in great quantities and lengths. Thank Heaven, we are off in
a few minutes, and I hope will have better luck. I saw on the shore many
"Gopher" hills, in all probability the same as I have drawn. Bell shot
a Gray Squirrel which I believe to be the same as our _Sciurus
carolinensis_. Friend Harris shot two or three birds, which we have not
yet fully established, and Bell shot one Lincoln's Finch[261]--strange
place for it, when it breeds so very far north as Labrador. Caught a
Woodpecker, and killed a Cat-bird, Water-thrush, seventeen Parrakeets,
a Yellow Chat, a new Finch,[262] and very curious, two White-throated
Finches, one White-crown, a Yellow-rump Warbler, a Gray Squirrel, a
Loon, and two Rough-winged Swallows. We saw Cerulean Warblers, Hooded
Flycatchers, Kentucky Warblers, Nashville ditto, Blue-winged ditto,
Red-eyed and White-eyed Flycatchers, Great-crested and Common Pewees,
Redstarts, Towhee Buntings, Ferruginous Thrushes, Wood Thrush,
Golden-crowned Thrush, Blue-gray Flycatcher, Blue-eyed Warbler, Blue
Yellow-back, Chestnut-sided, Black-and-White Creepers, Nuthatch,
Kingbirds, Red Tanagers, Cardinal Grosbeaks, common House Wren,
Blue-winged Teals, Swans, large Blue Herons, Crows, Turkey-buzzards,
and a Peregrine Falcon, Red-tailed Hawks, Red-headed, Red-bellied, and
Golden-winged Woodpeckers, and Partridges. Also, innumerable "Gopher"
hills, one Ground-hog, one Rabbit, two Wild Turkeys, one Whippoorwill,
one Maryland Yellow-throat, and Swifts. We left the shore with a
strong gale of wind, and after having returned to our proper channel,
and rounded the island below our troublesome situation of last night,
we were forced to come to under the main shore. Here we killed and saw
all that is enumerated above, as well as two nests of the White-headed
Eagle. We are now for the night at a wooding-place, where we expect to
purchase some fresh provisions, if any there are; and as it is nine
o'clock I am off to bed.
_Friday, May 5._ The appearance of the weather this morning was rather
bad; it was cloudy and lowering, but instead of rain we have had a
strong southwesterly wind to contend with, and on this account our
day's work does not amount to much. At this moment, not eight o'clock,
we have stopped through its influence.
At half-past twelve we reached the Black Snake Hills[263] settlement,
and I was delighted to see this truly beautiful site for a town or
city, as will be no doubt some fifty years hence. The hills themselves
are about 200 feet above the river, and slope down gently into the
beautiful prairie that extends over some thousands of acres, of the
richest land imaginable. Five of our trappers did not come on board at
the ringing of the bell, and had to walk several miles across a bend
to join us and be taken on again. We have not seen much game this day,
probably on account of the high wind. We saw, however, a large flock
of Willets, two Gulls, one Grebe, many Blue-winged Teals, Wood Ducks,
and Coots, and one pair of mated Wild Geese. This afternoon a Black
Squirrel was seen. This morning I saw a Marmot; and Sprague, a
_Sciurus macrourus_ of Say. On examination of the Finch killed by
Harris yesterday, I found it to be a new species, and I have taken its
measurements across this sheet of paper.[264] It was first seen on the
ground, then on low bushes, then on large trees; no note was heard.
Two others, that were females to all appearance, could not be procured
on account of their extreme shyness. We saw the Indigo-bird, Barn
Swallows, Purple Martin, and Greenbacks;[265] also, a Rabbit at the
Black Snake Hills. The general aspect of the river is materially
altered for the worse; it has become much more crooked or tortuous, in
some places very wide with sand-banks naked and dried, so that the
wind blows the sand quite high. In one place we came to a narrow and
swift chute, four miles above the Black Snake Hills, that in time of
extreme high water must be very difficult of ascent. During these high
winds it is very hard to steer the boat, and also to land her. The
settlers on the Missouri side of the river appear to relish the sight
of a steamer greatly, for they all come to look at this one as we pass
the different settlements. The thermometer has fallen sixteen degrees
since two o'clock, and it feels now very chilly.
_Saturday, May 6._ High wind all night and cold this morning, with the
wind still blowing so hard that at half-past seven we stopped on the
western shore, under a range of high hills, but on the weather side of
them. We took our guns and went off, but the wind was so high we saw
but little; I shot a Wild Pigeon and a Whippoorwill, female, that gave
me great trouble, as I never saw one so remarkably wild before. Bell
shot two Gray Squirrels and several Vireos, and Sprague, a Kentucky
Warbler. Traces of Turkeys and of Deer were seen. We also saw three
White Pelicans, but no birds to be added to our previous lot, and I
have no wish to keep a strict account of the number of the same
species we daily see. It is now half-past twelve; the wind is still
very high, but our captain is anxious to try to proceed. We have cut
some green wood, and a considerable quantity of hickory for
axe-handles. In cutting down a tree we caught two young Gray
Squirrels. A Pewee Flycatcher, of some species or other, was caught by
the steward, who ran down the poor thing, which was starved on account
of the cold and windy weather. Harris shot another of the new Finches,
a male also, and I saw what I believe is the female, but it flew
upwards of 200 yards without stopping. Bell also shot a small Vireo,
which is in all probability a new species[266] (to me at least). We
saw a Goshawk, a Marsh Hawk, and a great number of Blackbirds, but
could not ascertain the species.[267] The wind was still high when we
left our stopping place, but we progressed, and this afternoon came
alongside of a beautiful prairie of some thousands of acres, reaching
to the hills. Here we stopped to put out our Iowa Indians, and also to
land the goods we had for Mr. Richardson, the Indian agent. The goods
were landed, but at the wrong place, as the Agent's agent would not
receive them there, on account of a creek above, which cannot at
present be crossed with wagons. Our Sac Indian chief started at once
across the prairie towards the hills, on his way to his wigwam, and we
saw Indians on their way towards us, running on foot, and many on
horseback, generally riding double on skins or on Spanish saddles.
Even the squaws rode, and rode well too! We counted about eighty,
amongst whom were a great number of youths of different ages. I was
heartily glad that our own squad of them left us here. I observed that
though they had been absent from their friends and relatives, they
never shook hands, or paid any attention to them. When the freight was
taken in we proceeded, and the whole of the Indians followed along the
shore at a good round run; those on horseback at times struck into a
gallop. I saw more of these poor beings when we approached the
landing, perched and seated on the promontories about, and many
followed the boat to the landing. Here the goods were received, and
Major Richardson came on board, and paid freight. He told us we were
now in the country of the Fox Indians as well as that of the Iowas,
that the number about him is over 1200, and that his district extends
about seventy miles up the river. He appears to be a pleasant man;
told us that Hares[268] were very abundant--by the way, Harris saw
one to-day. We are now landed on the Missouri side of the river, and
taking in wood. We saw a Pigeon Hawk, found Partridges paired, and
some also in flocks. When we landed during the high wind we saw a fine
sugar camp belonging to Indians. I was pleased to see that many of the
troughs they make are formed of bark, and that both ends are puckered
and tied so as to resemble a sort of basket or canoe. They had killed
many Wild Turkeys, Geese, and Crows, all of which they eat. We also
procured a White-eyed and a Warbling Vireo, and shot a male Wild
Pigeon. Saw a Gopher throwing out the dirt with his fore feet and not
from his pouches. I was within four or five feet of it. Shot a
Humming-bird, saw a Mourning Warbler, and Cedar-birds.
[Illustration: COLUMBA PASSERINA, GROUND DOVE.
(Now Columbigallina passerina terrestri.)
FROM THE UNPUBLISHED DRAWING BY J. J. AUDUBON, 1838.]
_May 7, Sunday._ Fine weather, but cool. Saw several Gray Squirrels
and one Black. I am told by one of our pilots, who has killed seven or
eight, that they are much larger than _Sciurus macrourus_, that the
hair is coarse, that they are clumsy in their motions, and that they
are found from the Black Snake Hills to some distance above the
Council Bluffs.
We landed to cut wood at eleven, and we went ashore. Harris killed
another of the new Finches, a male also; the scarcity of the females
goes on, proving how much earlier the males sally forth on their
migrations towards the breeding grounds. We saw five Sand-hill Cranes,
some Goldfinches, Yellowshanks, Tell-tale Godwits, Solitary Snipes,
and the woods were filled with House Wrens singing their merry songs.
The place, however, was a bad one, for it was a piece of bottom land
that had overflowed, and was sadly muddy and sticky. At twelve the
bell rang for Harris, Bell, and me to return, which we did at once, as
dinner was preparing for the table. Talking of dinner makes me think
of giving you the hours, usually, of our meals. Breakfast at half-past
six, dinner at half-past twelve, tea or supper at seven or later as
the case may be. We have not taken much wood here; it is ash, but
quite green. We saw Orchard Orioles, Blue-gray Flycatchers,
Great-crested and Common Pewees, Mallards, Pileated Woodpeckers, Blue
Jays, and Bluebirds; heard a Marsh Wren, saw a Crow, a Wood Thrush,
and Water Thrush. Indigo-birds and Parrakeets plentiful. This
afternoon we went into the pocket of a sand bar, got aground, and had
to back out for almost a mile. We saw an abundance of Ducks, some
White Pelicans, and an animal that we guessed was a Skunk. We have run
about fifty miles, and therefore have done a good day's journey. We
have passed the mouths of several small rivers, and also some very
fine prairie land, extending miles towards the hills. It is now nine
o'clock, a beautiful night with the moon shining. We have seen several
Ravens, and White-headed Eagles on their nests.
_May 8, Monday._ A beautiful calm day; the country we saw was much the
same as that we passed yesterday, and nothing of great importance took
place except that at a wooding-place on the very verge of the State of
Missouri (the northwest corner) Bell killed a Black Squirrel which
friend Bachman has honored with the name of my son John, _Sciurus
Audubonii_.[269] We are told that this species is not uncommon here.
It was a good-sized adult male, and Sprague drew an outline of it.
Harris shot another specimen of the new Finch. We saw Parrakeets and
many small birds, but nothing new or very rare. This evening I wrote a
long letter to each house, John Bachman, Gideon B. Smith of
Baltimore, and J. W. H. Page of New Bedford, with the hope of having
them forwarded from the Council Bluffs.
_May 9, Tuesday._ Another fine day. After running until eleven o'clock
we stopped to cut wood, and two Rose-breasted Grosbeaks were shot, a
common Blue-bird, and a common Northern Titmouse. We saw White
Pelicans, Geese, Ducks, etc. One of our trappers cut one of his feet
dreadfully with his axe, and Harris, who is now the doctor, attended
to it as best he could. This afternoon we reached the famous
establishment of Belle Vue[270] where resides the brother of Mr. Sarpy
of St. Louis, as well as the Indian Agent, or, as he might be more
appropriately called, the Custom House officer. Neither were at home,
both away on the Platte River, about 300 miles off. We had a famous
pack of rascally Indians awaiting our landing--filthy and
half-starved. We landed some cargo for the establishment, and I saw a
trick of the trade which made me laugh. Eight cords of wood were paid
for with five tin cups of sugar and three of coffee--value at St.
Louis about twenty-five cents. We have seen a Fish Hawk, Savannah
Finch, Green-backed Swallows, Rough-winged Swallows, Martins,
Parrakeets, Black-headed Gulls, Blackbirds, and Cow-birds; I will
repeat that the woods are fairly alive with House Wrens. Blue Herons,
_Emberiza pallida_--Clay-colored Bunting of Swainson--Henslow's
Bunting, Crow Blackbirds; and, more strange than all, two large cakes
of ice were seen by our pilots and ourselves. I am very much fatigued
and will finish the account of this day to-morrow. At Belle Vue we
found the brother-in-law of old Provost, who acts as clerk in the
absence of Mr. Sarpy. The store is no great affair, and yet I am told
that they drive a good trade with Indians on the Platte River, and
others, on this side of the Missouri. We unloaded some freight, and
pushed off. We saw here the first ploughing of the ground we have
observed since we left the lower settlements near St. Louis. We very
soon reached the post of Fort Croghan,[271] so called after my old
friend of that name with whom I hunted Raccoons on his father's
plantation in Kentucky some thirty-eight years ago, and whose father
and my own were well acquainted, and fought together in conjunction
with George Washington and Lafayette, during the Revolutionary War,
against "Merrie England." Here we found only a few soldiers, dragoons;
their camp and officers having been forced to move across the prairie
to the Bluffs, five miles. After we had put out some freight for the
sutler, we proceeded on until we stopped for the night a few miles
above, on the same side of the river. The soldiers assured us that
their parade ground, and so-called barracks, had been four feet under
water, and we saw fair and sufficient evidence of this. At this place
our pilot saw the first Yellow-headed Troupial we have met with. We
landed for the night under trees covered by muddy deposits from the
great overflow of this season. I slept soundly, and have this morning,
May 10, written this.