_London, November 4._ I travelled from Paris to Boulogne with two

nuns, that might as well be struck off the calendar of animated

beings. They stirred not, they spoke not, they saw not; they replied

neither by word nor gesture to the few remarks I made. In the woods of

America I have never been in such silence; for in the most retired

places I have had the gentle murmuring streamlet, or the sound of the

Woodpecker tapping, or the sweet melodious strains of that lovely

recluse, my greatest favorite, the Wood Thrush. The great poverty of

the country struck me everywhere; the peasantry are beggarly and

ignorant, few know the name of the _Departement_ in which they live;

their hovels are dirty and uncomfortable, and appear wretched indeed

after Paris. In Paris alone can the refinements of society, education,

and the fine arts be found. To Paris, or to the large cities, the

country gentleman must go, or have nothing; how unlike the beautiful

country homes of the English. I doubt not the "New Monthly" would cry

out: "Here is Audubon again, in all his extravagance." This may be

true, but I write as I think I see, and that is enough to render me

contented with my words. The passage from Calais was short, and I was

free from my usual seasickness, and London was soon reached, where I

have been busy with many letters, many friends, and my work. I have

presented a copy of my birds to the Linnaean Society, and sold a little

picture for ten guineas. And now I must to work on the pictures that

have been ordered in France.

_November 7._ To-day is of some account, as Mr. Havell has taken the

drawings that are to form the eleventh number of my work. It will be

the first number for the year 1829. I have as yet had no answer from

the Linnaean Society, but thou knowest how impatient my poor nature

always is.

_November 10._ I have been painting as much as the short days will

allow, but it is very hard for me to do so, as my Southern

constitution suffers so keenly from the cold that I am freezing on the

side farthest from the fire at this very instant. I have finished the

two pictures for the Duc d'Orleans; that of the Grouse I regret much

to part with, without a copy; however, I may at some future time group

another still more naturally.

_November 15._ We have had such dismal fog in this London that I could

scarcely see to write at twelve o'clock; however, I did write nearly

all day. It has been extremely cold besides, and in the streets in the

middle of the day I saw men carrying torches, so dark it was.

_November 17._ I anticipated this day sending all my copies for Paris,

but am sadly disappointed. One of the colorers employed brought a

number so shamefully done that I would not think of forwarding it. It

has gone to be washed, hot pressed, and done over again. Depend upon

it, my work will not fail for the want of my own very particular

attention.

_December 23._ After so long neglecting thee, my dear book, it would

be difficult to enter a connected account of my time, but I will trace

the prominent parts of the lapse. Painting every day, and I may well

add constantly, has been the main occupation. I have (what I call)

finished my two large pictures of the Eagle and the Lamb, and the Dog

and the Pheasants, and now, as usual, can scarce bear to look at

either. My friends the Swainsons have often been to see me, and good

Bentley came and lived with me for a month as a brother would. I

parted from him yesterday with pain and regret. Several artists have

called upon me, and have given me _false praises_, as I have heard

afterwards, and I hope they will keep aloof. It is charity to speak

the truth to a man who knows the poverty of his talents and wishes to

improve; it is villanous to mislead him, by praising him to his face,

and laughing at his work as they go down the stairs of his house. I

have, however, applied to one whom I _know_ to be candid, and who has

promised to see them, and to give his opinion with truth and

simplicity; this is no other, my Lucy, than the president of the Royal

Academy, Sir Thomas Lawrence. The steady work and want of exercise has

reduced me almost to a skeleton; I have not allowed myself the time

even to go to the Zoological Gardens.

_December 26._ I dined yesterday (another Christmas day away from my

dear country) at a Mr. Goddard's; our company was formed of Americans,

principally sea-captains. During my absence Sir Thomas Lawrence came

to see my paintings, which were shown to him by Mr. Havell, who

reported as follows. On seeing the Eagle and Lamb he said, "That is a

fine picture." He examined it closely, and was shown that of the

Pheasants, which I call "_Sauve qui peut_." He approached it, looked

at it sideways, up and down, and put his face close to the canvas, had

it moved from one situation to two others in different lights, but

gave no opinion. The Otter came next, and he said that the "animal"

was very fine, and told Havell he would come again to see them in a

few days. I paid him my respects the next morning, and thought him

kinder than usual. He said he would certainly come to make a choice

for me of one to be exhibited at Somerset House, and would speak to

the Council about it.

* * * * *

The remaining three months before Audubon sailed for America, April 1,

1829, were passed in preparations for his absence from his book, and

many pages of his fine, close writing are filled with memoranda for

Mr. Havell, Mr. J. G. Children, and Mr. Pitois. Audubon writes: "I

have made up my mind to go to America, and with much labor and some

trouble have made ready. My business is as well arranged for as

possible; I have given the agency of my work to my excellent friend

Children, of the British Museum, who kindly offered to see to it

during my absence. I have collected some money, paid all my debts, and

taken my passage in the packet-ship 'Columbia,' Captain Delano. I

chose the ship on account of her name, and paid thirty pounds for my

passage. I am about to leave this smoky city for Portsmouth, and shall

sail on April 1." The voyage was uneventful, and America was reached

on May 1. Almost immediately began the search for new birds, and those

not delineated already, for the continuation and completion of the

"Birds of America."

[Illustration: EAGLE AND LAMB. PAINTED BY AUDUBON, LONDON, 1828. IN

THE POSSESSION OF THE FAMILY.]

FOOTNOTES:

[65] This sounds involved, but is copied verbatim.

[66] Mr. Wm. Rathbone, of the firm of Rathbone Bros. & Co., to whom

Audubon had a letter from Mr. Vincent Nolte. To Messrs. Wm. and

Richard Rathbone, and their father Wm. Rathbone, Sr., Audubon was more

deeply indebted than to any other of his many kind friends in England.

Their hospitality was only equalled by their constant and valuable

assistance in preparing for the publication of the "Birds," and when

this was an assured fact, they were unresting in their efforts to aid

Audubon in procuring subscribers. It is with pleasure that Audubon's

descendants to-day acknowledge this indebtedness to the "family

Rathbone," which is ever held in grateful remembrance.

[67] William Roscoe, historical, botanical, and miscellaneous writer,

1753-1831.

[68] In a charming letter written to me by Mr. Richard R. Rathbone,

son of this gentleman, dated Glan y Menai, Anglesey, May 14, 1897, he

says: "To us there was a halo of romance about Mr. Audubon, artist,

naturalist, quondam backwoodsman, and the author of that splendid work

which I used to see on a table constructed to hold the copy belonging

to my Uncle William, opening with hinges so as to raise the bird

portraits as if on a desk. But still more I remember his amiable

character, though tinged with melancholy by past sufferings; and his

beautiful, expressive face, kept alive in my memory by his autograph

crayon sketch thereof, in profile, with the words written at foot,

'Audubon at Green Bank. _Almost_ happy, 9th September, 1826.' Mr.

Audubon painted for my father, as a gift, an Otter (in oils) caught by

the fore-foot in a steel trap, and after vainly gnawing at the foot to

release himself, throwing up his head, probably with a yell of agony,

and displaying his wide-open jaws dripping with blood. This picture

hung on our walls for years, until my mother could no longer bear the

horror of it, and persuaded my father to part with it. We also had a

full-length, life-sized portrait of the American Turkey, striding

through the forest. Both pictures went to a public collection in

Liverpool. I have also a colored sketch by Mr. Audubon of a Robin

Redbreast, shot by him at Green Bank, which I saw him pin with long

pins into a bit of board to fix it into position for the instruction

of my mother."

[69] At Green Bank.

[70] Vincent Nolte, born at Leghorn, 1779, traveller, merchant,

adventurer.

[71] William Henry Hunt (1790-1864).

[72] Mrs. Alexander Gordon was Mrs. Audubon's sister Anne.

[73] Thomas Stewart Traill, M.D., Scottish naturalist, born in Orkney,

1781; edited the eighth edition of the "Encyclopaedia Britannica," was

associated with the Royal Institute at Liverpool; he died 1862.

[74] The Swiss historian, born at Geneva, 1773, died 1842.

[75] Daughter of Mr. William Rathbone, Sr.; married Dr. William

Reynolds.

[76] Edward, fourteenth Earl of Derby, 1799-1869. Member of

Parliament, Chief Secretary for Ireland, Secretary for the Colonies,

First Lord of the Treasury, and Prime Minister. Translated Homer's

Iliad into blank verse. His was a life of many interests: literature,

art, society, public affairs, sportmanship, and above all "the most

perfect orator of his day."

[77] Mrs. Wm. Rathbone, Sr., whom Audubon often calls "Lady Rathbone,"

and also "The Queen Bee."

[78] Muzio Clementi, composer and pianist, born in Rome, 1752, died in

London, 1832. Head of the piano firm of that name.

[79] Relative of Mr. Wm. Rathbone, Sr.

[80] The Irwell.

[81] William Smyth, 1766-1849, poet, scholar, and Professor of Modern

History at Cambridge.

[82] Henry Clay.

[83] John Randolph of Roanoke, 1773-1833, American orator and

statesman.

[84] William S. Roscoe, son of William Roscoe, 1781-1843.

[85] I believe Mr. Robert Bentley, the publisher.

[86] Robert Jameson, the eminent Scotch naturalist, 1774-1854. Regius

Professor of Natural History in the University of Edinburgh. Founder

of the Wernerian Society of that city, and with Sir David Brewster

originated the "Edinburgh Philosophical Review." Wrote many works on

geology and mineralogy.

[87] Andrew Duncan, M.D., 1745-1828. Lecturer in the University of

Edinburgh.

[88] Patrick Neill, 1776-1851, Scottish naturalist and

horticulturalist. Was a printer in Edinburgh at this time.

[89] Prideaux John Selby, English ornithologist, author of "British

Birds" and other works; died 1867.

[90] Lord Francis Jeffrey, 1773-1850, the distinguished Scottish

critic and essayist.

[91] Sir William Jardine.

[92] W. H. Lizars, the engraver who made a few of the earliest plates

of the "Birds of America."

[93] Scottish naturalist, 1800-1874. Published "Naturalists' Library"

and other works.

[94] James Wilson, brother of Professor John Wilson (Christopher

North), naturalist and scientific writer, 1795-1856.

[95] George Combe, an eminent phrenologist and author on that subject.

Born and died in Edinburgh, 1788-1856.

[96] David Bridges, editor of one of the Edinburgh newspapers.

[97] John Syme. His portrait of Audubon was the first one ever

engraved.

[98] Charles Waterton, English naturalist and traveller,

1782-1865,--always an enemy of Audubon's.

[99] This seal Audubon always used afterwards, and it is still in the

possession of the family.

[100] Robert Graham, Scottish physician and botanist, born at

Stirling, 1786, died at Edinburgh, 1845.

[101] David Brewster, author, scientist, and philosopher, Edinburgh,

1781-

[102] Dugald Stewart, Professor of Moral Philosophy, author, etc.,

Edinburgh, 1753-1828.

[103] Thomas Bruce, seventh Earl of Elgin. 1777-1841.

[104] Wm. Forbes Skene, Scottish historian.

[105] Afterwards Sir William Allan, historical painter; in 1833 was

elected president of the Scottish Royal Academy, Edinburgh. 1782-1850.

[106] An eminent divine 1784-1858; father of Dr. John Brown, author of

"Rab and his Friends," etc.

[107] William Nicholson, First Secretary of the Scottish Academy and

portrait painter. 1784-1844.

[108] Traveller and author. 1788-1844.

[109] Robert Kaye Greville, author of "Plants of Edinburgh" and other

botanical works, 1794-1866.

[110] This entry begins a new blank book, in shape and size like a

ledger, every line of which is closely written.

[111] Spencer Perceval, born 1762, assassinated in the lobby of the

House of Commons, May 11, 1812.

[112] "Jan. 22, 1827. A visit from Basil Hall with Mr. Audubon the

ornithologist, who has followed that pursuit by many a long wandering

in the American forests. He is an American by naturalization, a

Frenchman by birth, but less of a Frenchman than I have ever seen,--no

dash, no glimmer or shine about him, but great simplicity of manners

and behaviour; slight in person and plainly dressed; wears long hair

which time has not yet tinged; his countenance acute, handsome, and

interesting, but still simplicity is the predominant characteristic."

(Journal of Sir Walter Scott, vol. i., p. 343.)

[113] "January 24. Visit from Mr. Audubon, who brings some of his

birds. The drawings are of the first order--the attitudes of the birds

of the most animated character, and the situations appropriate....

This sojourner of the desert had been in the woods for months

together. He preferred associating with the Indians to the company of

the settlers; very justly, I daresay, for a civilized man of the lower

order when thrust back on the savage state becomes worse than a

savage." (Journal of Sir Walter Scott, vol. i., p. 345.)

[114] Sir John Leslie, 1766-1832, Scottish geometer and natural

philosopher and voluminous author on these subjects.

[115] Joseph B. Kidd, who later copied many of Audubon's birds.

[116] James Baillie Fraser, 1783-1856, Scottish writer of travels.

[117] Mrs. Anne Grant, poetess and miscellaneous writer. Born 1755,

died 1838.

[118] This entry is the only one on a large page, of which a facsimile

is given. It is written in the centre, and all around the edge of the

paper is a heavy black border, an inch in depth.

[119] A distinguished ornithologist said of the book in 1895: "It is

one of the few illustrated books, if not the only one, that steadily

increases in price as the years go on."

[120] One of the greatest metaphysicians of modern times. Born at

Glasgow 1788, died in Edinburgh, 1856.

[121] Possibly Charles Heath, engraver, 1784-1848.

[122] Thomas Bewick was at this time nearly seventy-four. He died Nov.

8, 1828, being then past seventy-five.

[123] Probably St. Mary's Abbey.

[124] Mr. Vernon was the president of the Philosophical Society of

York.

[125] Mr. John Backhouse.

[126] Nearly every entry in all the journals begins and ends with a

morning greeting, and an affectionate good-night. These have been

omitted with occasional exceptions.

[127] Mr. Melly.

[128] John George Children, 1777-1852, English physicist and

naturalist, at this time secretary of the Royal Society.

[129] Robert Inglis, 1786-1855, of the East India Company.

[130] Nicholas Aylward Vigors, 1787-1840, naturalist, First Secretary

of the Zoological Society of London.

[131] Then a boy not fifteen, who was at Bayou Sara with his mother.

[132] When found by Audubon the Havells were in extreme poverty. He

provided everything for them, and his publication made them

comparatively wealthy.

[133] Benson Rathbone.

[134] The distance between these places is about two miles.

[135] The Duck-billed Platypus, _Ornithorynchus paradoxus_ of

Australia.--E. C.

[136] The Andean Eagle is undoubtedly the Harpy, _Thrasaetos

harpyia_.--E. C.

[137] Francois Athanase de Charette, a leader of the Vendeans against

the French Republic; executed at Nantes, on May 12, 1797.

[138] Children's Warbler. Plate xxxv.

[139] Vigors' Warbler. Plate xxx.

[140] Cuvier's Regulus. Plate lv. No bird was named after Temminck by

Audubon.

[141] This decision was made in consequence of various newspaper and

personal attacks, which, then as now, came largely from people who

knew nothing of the matter under consideration. It was a decision,

however, never altered except in so far as regards the Episodes

published in the "Ornithological Biography."

[142] David Don, Scottish botanist, 1800-1840; at this time Librarian

of Linnaean Society.

[143] Thomas Nuttall, botanist and ornithologist; born in England

1786, died at St. Helen's, England, September 10, 1859.

[144] Of all the twenty-six only three are known to be in existence;

the other volumes now extant are all of later date.

[145] Joshua Brookes, 1761-1833, anatomist and surgeon.

[146] Captain (Sir) Edward Sabine accompanied Parry's expedition to

the Arctic regions,--a mathematician, traveller, and Fellow of the

Royal Society, 1819. Born in Dublin, 1788, died in Richmond, 1883.

[147] Adam Sedgwick, geologist. 1785-1873.

[148] William Whewell, 1795-1866, Professor of Moral Philosophy,

Mineralogy, and other sciences.

[149] John Stevens Henslow, botanist, 1796-1861.

[150] Dr. John Kidd, 1775-1851, Professor of Chemistry and Medicine at

Oxford.

[151] Edward Burton, D.D., 1794-1836, Professor of Divinity at Oxford.

[152] William Buckland, D.D., 1784-1856, geologist.

[153] John Claudius Loudon, 1783-1843, writer on horticulture and

arboriculture. In 1828-1836, editor of the "Magazine of Natural

History."

[154] Edward Turner Bennett, 1797-1836, zoologist.

[155] William Swainson, naturalist and writer. Born in England 1789,

emigrated in 1841 to New Zealand, where he died 1855.

[156] This picture is still in the family, being owned by one of the

granddaughters.

[157] Francois Levaillant, born at Paramaribo, 1753; died in France,

1824.

[158] John Edward Gray, 1800-1875, zoologist.

[159] No trace of this portrait can be found.

[160] George Chretien Leopold Frederic Dagobert Cuvier, Baron,

1769-1832; statesman, author, philosopher, and one of the greatest

naturalists of modern times.

[161] Achille Valenciennes, born 1794, French naturalist.

[162] Etienne Geoffroy de St. Hilaire, 1772-1844, French naturalist.

[163] Rene Primevere Lesson, a French naturalist and author, born at

Rochefort, 1794, died 1849.

[164] Isidore Geoffroy St. Hilaire, 1805-1861, zoologist.

[165] Son of Andre, Prince d'Essling and Duc de Rivoli, one of the

marshals of Napoleon.

[166] Charles Alexandre Le Sueur, French naturalist. 1778-1846.

[167] Pierre Joseph Redoute, French painter of flowers. 1759-1840.

[168] Francois Gerard, born at Rome 1770, died 1837; the best French

portrait painter of his time, distinguished also for historical

pictures.

[169] Charles d'Orbigny, son of Audubon's early friend, M. le docteur

d'Orbigny.

[170] Count Joseph Jerome Simeon, French Minister of State. 1781-1846.

[171] The words of the secretary were fully verified within a few

months.

THE LABRADOR JOURNAL

1833

INTRODUCTION

The Labrador trip, long contemplated, was made with the usual object,

that of procuring birds and making the drawings of them for the

continuation of the "Birds of America," the publication of which was

being carried on by the Havells, under the supervision of Victor, the

elder son, who was in London at this time. To him Audubon writes from

Eastport, Maine, under date of May 31, 1833:--

"We are on the eve of our departure for the coast of Labrador. Our

party consists of young Dr. George Shattuck of Boston, Thomas Lincoln

of Dennysville, William Ingalls, son of Dr. Ingalls of Boston, Joseph

Coolidge, John, and myself. I have chartered a schooner called the

'Ripley,' commanded by Captain Emery, who was at school with my friend

Lincoln; he is reputed to be a gentleman, as well as a good sailor.

Coolidge, too, has been bred to the sea, and is a fine, active youth

of twenty-one. The schooner is a new vessel, only a year old, of 106

tons, for which we pay three hundred and fifty dollars per month for

the entire use of the vessel with the men, but we supply ourselves

with provisions.[172] The hold of the vessel has been floored, and our

great table solidly fixed in a tolerably good light under the main

hatch; it is my intention to draw whenever possible, and that will be

many hours, for the daylight is with us nearly all the time in those

latitudes, and the fishermen say you can do with little sleep, the air

is so pure. I have been working hard at the birds from the Grand

Menan, as well as John, who is overcoming his habit of sleeping late,

as I call him every morning at four, and we have famous long days. We

are well provided as to clothes, and strange figures indeed do we cut

in our dresses, I promise you: fishermen's boots, the soles of which

are all nailed to enable us to keep our footing on the sea-weeds,

trousers of _fearnought_ so coarse that our legs look like bears'

legs, oiled jackets and over-trousers for rainy weather, and round,

white, wool hats with a piece of oil cloth dangling on our shoulders

to prevent the rain from running down our necks. A coarse bag is

strapped on the back to carry provisions on inland journeys, with our

guns and hunting-knives; you can form an idea of us from this. Edward

Harris is not to be with us; this I regret more than I can say. This

day seven vessels sailed for the fishing-grounds, some of them not

more than thirty tons' burden, for these hardy fishermen care not in

what they go; but _I do_, and, indeed, such a boat would be too small

for us."

The 1st of June was the day appointed for the start, but various

delays occurred which retarded this until the 6th, when the journal

which follows tells its own tale.

Of all the members of the party Mr. Joseph Coolidge, now (1897) living

in San Francisco, is the sole survivor.

M. R. A.

[Illustration: AUDUBON.

From the portrait by George P. A. Healy, London, 1838. Now in the

possession of the Boston Society of Natural History.]

THE LABRADOR JOURNAL

1833

_Eastport, Maine, June 4._ Our vessel is being prepared for our

reception and departure, and we have concluded to hire two extra

sailors and a lad; the latter to be a kind of major-domo, to clean our

guns, etc., search for nests, and assist in skinning birds. Whilst

rambling in the woods this morning, I found a Crow's nest, with five

young, yet small. As I ascended the tree, the parents came to their

offspring crying loudly, and with such perseverance that in less than

fifteen minutes upwards of fifty pairs of these birds had joined in

their vociferations; yet when first the parents began to cry I would

have supposed them the only pair in the neighborhood.

_Wednesday, June 5._ This afternoon, when I had concluded that

everything relating to the charter of the "Ripley" was arranged, some

difficulty arose between myself and Mr. Buck, which nearly put a stop

to our having his vessel. Pressed, however, as I was, by the lateness

of the season, I gave way and suffered myself to be imposed upon as

usual, with a full knowledge that I was so. The charter was signed,

and we hoped to have sailed, but to-morrow is now the day appointed.

Our promised Hampton boat is not come.

_Thursday, June 6._ We left the wharf of Eastport about one o'clock P.

M. Every one of the male population came to see the show, just as if

no schooner the size of the "Ripley" had ever gone from this mighty

port to Labrador. Our numerous friends came with the throng, and we

all shook hands as if never to meet again. The batteries of the

garrison, and the cannon of the revenue cutter, saluted us, each

firing four loud, oft-echoing reports. Captain Coolidge accompanied

us, and indeed was our pilot, until we had passed Lubec. The wind was

light and ahead, and yet with the assistance of the tide we drifted

twenty-five miles, down to Little River, during the night, and on

rising on the morning of June 7 we were at anchor near some ugly

rocks, the sight of which was not pleasing to our good captain.

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