race. Perhaps I should not have seen that, which took place to-day at
the Champ de Mars, had I not gone out of curiosity with M. Vallery.
The Champ de Mars is on the south side of the Seine, about one and one
half miles below Paris; we passed through Les Jardins des Tuileries,
followed the river, and crossed the Pont de Jena opposite the entrance
to l'Ecole Militaire, situated at the farther end of the oval that
forms the Champ de Mars. This is a fine area, and perfectly level,
surrounded by a levee of earth, of which I should suppose the material
was taken from the plain on which the course is formed. Arriving
early, we walked round it; saw with pleasure the trees that shaded the
walks; the booths erected for the royal family, the prefect, the
gentry, and the _canaille_, varying greatly in elegance, as you may
suppose. Chairs and benches were to be hired in abundance, and we
each took one. At one o'clock squadrons of _gens d'armes_ and whole
regiments of infantry made their appearance from different points, and
in a few minutes the whole ground was well protected. The King was
expected, but I saw nothing of him, nor, indeed, of any of the royal
family, and cannot even assert that they came. At two every seat was
filled, and several hundreds of men on horseback had taken the centre
of the plain divided from the race track by a line of ropes. The
horses for the course made their appearance,--long-legged,
slender-bodied, necks straight, light of foot, and fiery-eyed. They
were soon mounted, and started, but I saw none that I considered
swift; not one could have run half as fast as a buck in our woods.
Five different sets were run, one after another, but I must say I paid
much greater attention to a Mameluke on a dark Arab steed, which with
wonderful ease leaped over the ground like a Squirrel; going at times
like the wind, then, being suddenly checked by his rider, almost sat
on his haunches, wheeled on his hind legs, and cut all sorts of mad
tricks at a word from his skilful master. I would rather see _him_
again than all the races in the world; horse racing, like gambling,
can only amuse people who have nothing better to attend to; however, I
have seen a race!
_September 30._ I saw Constant, the great engraver, Rue Percie, No.
12; he was at work, and I thought he worked well. I told him the
purpose of my visit, and he dropped his work at once to see mine. How
he stared! how often he exclaimed, "Oh, mon Dieu, quel ouvrage!" I
showed him all, and he began calculating, but did so, far too largely
for me, and we concluded no bargain. Old Redoute visited me and
brought me a letter from the Duc d'Orleans, whom I was to call upon at
one o'clock. Now, dearest friend, as I do not see Dukes every day I
will give thee a circumstantial account of my visit. The Palais of the
Duc d'Orleans is actually the entrance of the Palais-Royal, where we
often go in the evening, and is watched by many a sentinel. On the
right, I saw a large, fat, red-coated man through the ground window,
whom I supposed the porter of his Royal Highness. I entered and took
off my fur cap, and went on in an unconcerned way towards the stairs,
when he stopped me, and asked my wishes. I told him I had an
engagement with his master at one, and gave him my card to take up. He
said Monseigneur was not in (a downright lie), but that I might go to
the antechamber. I ordered the fat fellow to have my portfolio taken
upstairs, and proceeded to mount the finest staircase my feet have
ever trod. The stairs parted at bottom in rounding form of about
twenty-four feet in breadth, to meet on the second floor, on a landing
lighted by a skylight, which permitted me to see the beauties of the
surrounding walls, and on this landing opened three doors, two of which
I tried in vain to open. The third, however, gave way, and I found
myself in the antechamber, with about twelve servants, who all rose
and stood, until I had seated myself on a soft, red-velvet-covered
bench. Not a word was said to me, and I gazed at all of them with a
strange sensation of awkwardness mingled with my original pride. This
room had bare walls, and a floor of black and white square marble
flags. A man I call a sergeant d'armes, not knowing whether I am right
or wrong, wore a sword fastened to a belt of embroidered silk, very
wide; and he alone retained his hat. In a few minutes a tall, thin
gentleman made his entrance from another direction from that by which
I had come. The servants were again all up in a moment, the sergeant
took off his hat, and the gentleman disappeared as if he had not seen
me, though I had risen and bowed. A few minutes elapsed, when the same
thing occurred again. Not knowing how long this might continue, I
accosted the sergeant, told him I came at the request of the Duke, and
wished to see him. A profound bow was the answer, and I was conducted
to another room, where several gentlemen were seated writing. I let
one of them know my errand, and in a moment was shown into an immense
and superbly furnished apartment, and my book was ordered to be
brought up. In this room I bowed to two gentlemen whom I knew to be
members of the Legion d'Honneur, and walked about admiring the fine
marble statues and the paintings. A gentleman soon came to me, and
asked if perchance my name was Audubon? I bowed, and he replied:
"Bless me, we thought that you had gone and left your portfolio; my
uncle has been waiting for you twenty minutes; pray, sir, follow me."
We passed through a file of bowing domestics, and a door being opened
I saw the Duke coming towards me, to whom I was introduced by the
nephew. Lucy, Kentucky, Tennessee, and Alabama have furnished the
finest men in the world, as regards physical beauty; I have also seen
many a noble-looking Osage chief; but I do not recollect a
finer-looking man, in form, deportment, and manners, than this Duc
d'Orleans. He had my book brought up, and helped me to untie the
strings and arrange the table, and began by saying that he felt a
great pleasure in subscribing to the work of an American, for that he
had been most kindly treated in the United States, and should never
forget it. The portfolio was at last opened, and when I held up the
plate of the Baltimore Orioles, with a nest swinging amongst the
tender twigs of the yellow poplar, he said: "This surpasses all I have
seen, and I am not astonished now at the eulogiums of M. Redoute." He
spoke partly English, and partly French; spoke much of America, of
Pittsburgh, the Ohio, New Orleans, the Mississippi, steamboats, etc.,
etc., and added: "You are a great nation, a wonderful nation."
The Duke promised me to write to the Emperor of Austria, King of
Sweden, and other crowned heads, and asked me to write to-day to the
Minister of the Interior. I remained talking with him more than an
hour; I showed him my list of English subscribers, many of whom he
knew. I asked him for his own signature; he took my list and with a
smile wrote, in very large and legible characters, "Le Duc d'Orleans."
I now felt to remain longer would be an intrusion, and thanking him
respectfully I bowed, shook hands with him, and retired. He wished to
keep the set I had shown him, but it was soiled, and to such a good
man a good set must go. At the door I asked the fat porter if he would
tell me again his master was out. He tried in vain to blush.
_October 1._ Received to-day the note from the Minister of the
Interior asking me to call to-morrow at two. At eight in the evening I
was ready for M. Valenciennes to call for me to go with him to Gerard.
I waited till ten, when my gentleman came, and off we went; what a
time to pay a visit! But I was told Gerard[168] keeps late hours,
rarely goes to bed before two, but is up and at work by ten or eleven.
When I entered I found the rooms filled with both sexes, and my name
being announced, a small, well-formed man came to me, took my hand,
and said, "Welcome, Brother in Arts." I liked this much, and was
gratified to have the ice broken so easily. Gerard was all curiosity
to see my drawings, and old Redoute, who was present, spoke so highly
of them before the book was opened, that I feared to discover Gerard's
disappointment. The book opened accidentally at the plate of the
Parrots, and Gerard, taking it up without speaking, looked at it, I
assure thee, with as keen an eye as my own, for several minutes; put
it down, took up the one of the Mocking-Birds, and, offering me his
hand, said: "Mr. Audubon, you are the king of ornithological painters;
we are all children in France and in Europe. Who would have expected
such things from the woods of America?" My heart thrilled with pride
at his words. Are not we of America men? Have we not the same nerves,
sinews, and mental faculties which other nations possess? By
Washington! we have, and may God grant us the peaceable use of them
forever. I received compliments from all around me; Gerard spoke of
nothing but my work, and requested some prospectuses for Italy. He
repeated what Baron Cuvier had said in the morning, and hoped that the
Minister would order a good, round set of copies for the Government. I
closed the book, and rambled around the rooms which were all
ornamented with superb prints, mostly of Gerard's own paintings. The
ladies were all engaged at cards, and money did not appear to be
scarce in this portion of Paris.
_October 2._ Well, my Lucy, this day found me, about two o'clock, in
contemplation of a picture by Gerard in the salon of the Minister of
the Interior. Very different, is it not, from looking up a large
decaying tree, watching the movements of a Woodpecker? I was one of
several who were waiting, but only one person was there when I
arrived, who entered into conversation with me,--a most agreeable man
and the King's physician, possessed of fine address and much learning,
being also a good botanist. Half an hour elapsed, when the physician
was called; he was absent only a few minutes, and returning bowed to
me and smiled as my name was called. I found the Minister a man about
my own age, apparently worn out with business; he wore a long, loose,
gray surtout, and said, "Well, sir, I am glad to see you; where is
your great work?" I had the portfolio brought in, and the plates were
exhibited. "Really, monsieur, it is a very fine thing;" and after some
questions and a little conversation he asked me to write to him again,
and put my terms in writing, and he would reply as soon as possible.
He looked at me very fixedly, but so courteously I did not mind it. I
tied up my portfolio and soon departed, having taken as much of the
time of M. de Marignac as I felt I could do at this hour.
_October 4._ Went with Swainson to the Jardin du Roi to interpret for
him, and afterwards spent some time with Geoffroy de St. Hilaire,
hearing from him some curious facts respecting the habits and
conformation of the Mole. He gave me a ticket to the distribution of
the Grand Prix at the Institut. I then ascended four of the longest
staircases I know, to reach the cabinet of M. Pascale, the director of
the expenses of S.A.R. the Duc d'Orleans. What order was here!
Different bookcases contained the papers belonging to the
forests--horses--furniture--fine arts--libraries--fisheries--personal
expenses, and so on. M. Pascale took out M. Redoute's letter, and I
perceived the day of subscription, number of plates per annum, all,
was noted on the margin. M. Pascale sent me to the private apartments
of the Duchesse. Judge of my astonishment when I found this house
connected with the Palais-Royal. I went through a long train of
corridors, and reached the cabinet of M. Goutard. He took my name and
heard my request and promised to make an appointment for me through M.
Redoute, who is the drawing-master of the daughters of the Duchesse.
With Parker I went to see the distribution of prizes at L'Institut
Francais. The entrance was crowded, and, as in France pushing and
scrambling to get forward is out of the question, and very properly
so, I think, we reached the amphitheatre when it was already well
filled with a brilliant assemblage, but secured places where all could
be seen. The members dress in black trimmed with rich green laces. The
youths aspiring to rewards were seated round a table, facing the
audience. The reports read, the prizes were given, those thus favored
receiving a crown of laurel with either a gold or silver medal. We
remained here from two till five.
_Sunday, October 5._ After a wonderful service at Notre Dame I
wandered through Les Jardins des Plantes, and on to Cuvier's, who had
promised me a letter to some one who would, he thought, subscribe to
my book; but with his usual procrastination it was not ready, and he
said he would write it to-morrow. Oh, cursed to-morrow! Do men forget,
or do they not know how swiftly time moves on?
_October 6._ Scarce anything to write. No letter yet from the Minister
of the Interior, and I fear he too is a "To-morrow man." I went to
Cuvier for his letter; when he saw me he laughed, and told me to sit
down and see his specimens for a little while; he was surrounded by
reptiles of all sorts, arranging and labelling them. In half an hour
he rose and wrote the letter for me to the Duke of Levis, but it was
too late to deliver it to-day.
_October 7._ While with M. Lesson to-day, he spoke of a Monsieur
d'Orbigny[169] of La Rochelle; and on my making some inquiries I
discovered he was the friend of my early days, my intimate companion
during my last voyage from France to America; that he was still fond
of natural history, and had the management of the Musee at La
Rochelle. His son Charles, now twenty-one, I had held in my arms many
times, and as M. Lesson said he was in Paris, I went at once to find
him; he was out, but shortly after I had a note from him saying he
would call to-morrow morning.
_October 8._ This morning I had the great pleasure of receiving my
god-son Charles d'Orbigny. Oh! what past times were brought to my
mind. He told me he had often heard of me from his father, and
appeared delighted to meet me. He, too, like the rest of his family,
is a naturalist, and I showed him my work with unusual pleasure. His
father was the most intimate friend I have ever had, except thee, my
Lucy, and my father. I think I must have asked a dozen times to-day if
no letter had come for me. Oh, Ministers! what patience you do teach
artists!
_October 11._ This afternoon, as I was despairing about the ministers,
I received a note from Vicomte Simeon,[170] desiring I should call on
Monday. I may then finish with these high dignitaries. I saw the King
and royal family get out of their carriages at the Tuileries; bless
us! what a show! Carriages fairly glittering--eight horses in each,
and two hundred hussars and outriders. A fine band of music announced
their arrival. Dined at Baron Cuvier's, who subscribed to my work; he
being the father of all naturalists, I felt great pleasure at this. I
left at eleven, the streets dark and greasy, and made for the shortest
way to my hotel, which, as Paris is a small town compared to London, I
found no difficulty in doing. I am astonished to see how early all the
shops close here.
_October 13._ At twelve o'clock I was seated in the antechamber of the
Vicomte Simeon; when the sergeant perceived me he came to me and said
that M. Simeon desired me to have the first interview. I followed him
and saw a man of ordinary stature, about forty, fresh-looking, and so
used to the courtesy of the great world that before I had opened my
lips he had paid me a very handsome compliment, which I have forgot.
The size of my work astonished him, as it does every one who sees it
for the first time. He told me that the work had been under
discussion, and that he advised me to see Baron de la Brouillerie and
Baron Vacher, the secretary of the Dauphin. I told him I wished to
return to England to superintend my work there, and he promised I
should have the decision to-morrow (hated word!) or the next day. I
thought him kind and complaisant. He gave the signal for my departure
by bowing, and I lifted my book, as if made of feathers, and passed
out with swiftness and alacrity. I ordered the cab at once to the
Tuileries, and after some trouble found the Cabinet of the Baron de
Vacher; there, Lucy, I really waited like a Blue Heron on the edge of
a deep lake, the bottom of which the bird cannot find, nor even know
whether it may turn out to be good fishing. Many had their turns
before me, but I had my interview. The Baron, a fine young man about
twenty-eight, promised me to do all he could, but that his master was
allowed so much (how much I do not know), and his expenses swallowed
all.
_October 14._ Accompanied Parker while he was painting Redoute's
portrait, and during the outlining of that fine head I was looking
over the original drawings of the great man; never have I seen
drawings more beautifully wrought up, and so true to nature. The
washy, slack, imperfect messes of the British artists are _nothing_ in
comparison. I remained here three hours, which I enjoyed much.
_October 15._ Not a word from the minister, and the time goes faster
than I like, I assure thee. Could the minister know how painful it is
for an individual like me to wait nearly a month for a decision that
might just as well have been concluded in one minute, I am sure things
would be different.
_October 18._ I have seen two ministers this day, but from both had
only promises. But this day has considerably altered my ideas of
ministers. I have had a fair opportunity of seeing how much trouble
they have, and how necessary it is to be patient with them. I arrived
at Baron de la Brouillerie's at half-past eleven. A soldier took my
portfolio, that weighs nearly a hundred pounds, and showed me the
entrance to a magnificent antechamber. Four gentlemen and a lady were
there, and after they had been admitted and dismissed, my name was
called. The Baron is about sixty years old; tall, thin, not handsome,
red in the face, and stiff in his manners. I opened my book, of which
he said he had read much in the papers, and asked me why I had not
applied to him before. I told him I had written some weeks ago. This
he had forgot, but now remembered, somewhat to his embarrassment. He
examined every sheet very closely, said he would speak to the King,
and I must send him a written and exact memorandum of everything. He
expressed surprise the Duc d'Orleans had taken only one copy. I walked
from here to Vicomte Simeon. It was his audience day, and in the
antechamber twenty-six were already waiting. My seat was close to the
door of his cabinet, and I could not help hearing some words during my
penance, which lasted one hour and a half. The Vicomte received every
one with the same words, "Monsieur (or Madame), j'ai l'honneur de vous
saluer;" and when each retired, "Monsieur, je suis votre tres humble
serviteur." Conceive, my Lucy, the situation of this unfortunate
being, in his cabinet since eleven, repeating these sentences to
upwards of one hundred persons, answering questions on as many
different subjects. What brains he must have, and--how long can he
keep them? As soon as I entered he said: "Your business is being
attended to, and I give you _my word_ you shall have your answer on
Tuesday. Have you seen Barons Vacher and La Brouillerie?" I told him I
had, and he wished me success as I retired.
_October 19._ About twelve walked to the plains d'Issy to see the
review of the troops by the King in person. It is about eight miles
from that portion of Paris where I was, and I walked it with extreme
swiftness, say five and a half miles per hour. The plain is on the
south bank of the Seine, and almost level. Some thousands of soldiers
were already ranged in long lines, handsomely dressed, and armed as if
about to be in action. I made for the top of a high wall, which I
reached at the risk of breaking my neck, and there, like an Eagle on a
rock, I surveyed all around me. The carriage of the Duc d'Orleans came
first at full gallop, all the men in crimson liveries, and the music
struck up like the thunder of war. Then the King, all his men in
white liveries, came driving at full speed, and followed by other
grandees. The King and these gentry descended from their carriages and
mounted fine horses, which were in readiness for them; they were
immediately surrounded by a brilliant staff, and the review began, the
Duchesses d'Orleans and de Berry having now arrived in open carriages;
from my perch I saw all. The Swiss troops began, and the manoeuvres
were finely gone through; three times I was within twenty-five yards
of the King and his staff, and, as a Kentuckian would say, "could have
closed his eye with a rifle bullet." He is a man of small stature,
pale, not at all handsome, and rode so bent over his horse that his
appearance was neither kingly nor prepossessing. He wore a
three-cornered hat, trimmed with white feathers, and had a broad blue
sash from the left shoulder under his right arm. The Duc d'Orleans
looked uncommonly well in a hussar uniform, and is a fine rider; he
sat his horse like a Turk. The staff was too gaudy; I like not so much
gold and silver. None of the ladies were connections of Venus, except
most distantly; few Frenchwomen are handsome. The review over, the
King and his train rode off. I saw a lady in a carriage point at me on
the wall; she doubtless took me for a large black Crow. The music was
uncommonly fine, especially that by the band belonging to the
Cuirassiers, which was largely composed of trumpets of various kinds,
and aroused my warlike feelings. The King and staff being now posted
at some little distance, a new movement began, the cannon roared, the
horses galloped madly, the men were enveloped in clouds of dust and
smoke; this was a sham battle. No place of retreat was here, no cover
of dark woods, no deep swamp; there would have been no escape here.
This was no battle of New Orleans, nor Tippecanoe. I came down from my
perch, leaving behind me about thirty thousand idlers like myself, and
the soldiers, who must have been hot and dusty enough.
_October 20._ Nothing to do, and tired of sight-seeing. Four
subscriptions in seven weeks. Slow work indeed. I took a long walk,
and watched the Stock Pigeons or Cushats in the trees of Le Jardin des
Tuileries, where they roost in considerable numbers, arriving about
sunset. They settle at first on the highest trees, and driest, naked
branches, then gradually lower themselves, approach the trunks of the
trees, and thickest parts, remain for the night, leave at day-break,
and fly northerly. Blackbirds do the same, and are always extremely
noisy before dark; a few Rooks are seen, and two or three Magpies. In
the Jardin, and in the walks of the Palais-Royal, the common Sparrow
is prodigiously plenty, very tame, fed by ladies and children, killed
or missed with blow-guns by mischievous boys. The Mountain Finch
passes in scattered numbers over Paris at this season, going
northerly, and is caught in nets. Now, my love, wouldst thou not
believe me once more in the woods, hard at it? Alas! I wish I was;
what precious time I am wasting in Europe.
_October 21._ Redoute told me the young Duchesse d'Orleans had
subscribed, and I would receive a letter to that effect. Cuvier sent
me one hundred printed copies of his _Proces verbal_.
_October 22._ The second day of promise is over, and not a word from
either of the ministers. Now, do those good gentlemen expect me to
remain in Paris all my life? They are mistaken. Saturday I pack; on
Tuesday morning farewell to Paris. Redoute sent me three volumes of
his beautiful roses, which thou wilt so enjoy, and a compliment which
is beyond all truth, so I will not repeat it.
_October 26._ I received a letter from Baron de la Brouillerie
announcing that the King had subscribed to my work for his private
library. I was visited by the secretary of the Duc d'Orleans, who sat
with me some time, a clever and entertaining man with whom I felt
quite at ease. He told me that I might now expect the subscriptions
of most of the royal family, because none of them liked to be outdone
or surpassed by any of the others.[171] Good God! what a spirit is
this; what a world we live in! I also received a M. Pitois, who came
to look at my book, with a view to becoming my agent here; Baron
Cuvier recommended him strongly, and I have concluded a bargain with
him. He thinks he can procure a good number of names. His manners are
plain, and I hope he will prove an honest man. He had hardly gone,
when I received a letter from M. Simeon, telling me the Minister of
the Interior would take six copies for various French towns and
universities, and he regretted it was not twelve. So did I, but I am
well contented. I have now thirteen subscribers in Paris; I have been
here two months, and have expended forty pounds. My adieux will now be
made, and I shall be _en route_ for London before long.