particularly good breakfast ready by nine o'clock because Mr. Witham
had offered last night to come and partake of it with me; I then took
to my brushes and finished my Otter entirely. I had been just thirteen
hours at it, and had I labored for thirteen weeks, I do not think I
should have bettered it. Nine o'clock--ten o'clock--and no Mr. Witham.
I was to accompany him to Dr. Knox, whose lecture on Anatomy he was to
hear. At last he came with many apologies, having already breakfasted,
and giving me but ten minutes for my morning meal. We then hurried
off, the weather beautiful, but extremely cold. We ascended the stairs
and opened the door of the lecture room, where were seated probably
one hundred and fifty students; a beating of feet and clapping of
hands took place that quite shocked me. We seated ourselves and each
person who entered the room was saluted as we had been, and during the
intervals a low beating was kept up resembling in its regularity the
footsteps of a regiment on a flat pavement. Dr. Knox entered, and all
was as hushed as if silence had been the principal study of all
present. I am not an anatomist. Unfortunately, no! I know almost less
than nothing, but I was much interested in the lecture, which lasted
three quarters of an hour, when the Dr. took us through the anatomical
Museum, and his dissecting-room. The sights were extremely
disagreeable, many of them shocking beyond all I ever thought could
be. I was glad to leave this charnel house and breathe again the
salubrious atmosphere of the streets of "Fair Edina." I was engaged
most certainly to dine out, but could not recollect where, and was
seated trying to remember, when the Rev. W. J. Bakewell, my wife's
first cousin, and the son of Robert Bakewell the famous grazier and
zoologist of Derbyshire, came in to see me. He asked many questions
about the family in America, gave me his card and invited me to dine
with him next Monday week, which is my first unengaged day. I had a
letter from Mr. Monroe at Liverpool telling me I had been elected a
member of the Literary and Philosophical Societies of that city. Not
being able to recall where I was to dine, I was guilty of what must
seem great rudeness to my intended hosts, and which is truly most
careless on my part; so I went to Mr. Lizars, where I am always happy.
The wild Turkey-cock is to be the large bird of my first number, to
prove the necessity of the size of the work. I am glad to be able to
retire at an early hour. It seems to me an extraordinary thing, my
present situation in Edinburgh; looked upon with respect, receiving
the attentions of the most distinguished people, and supported by men
of science and learning. It is wonderful to me; am I, or is my work,
deserving of all this?
_Tuesday, December 5._ After I had put my Otter in the exhibition
room, I met Mr. Syme and with him visited Mr. Wm. Nicholson,[107] a
portrait painter, and there saw, independent of his own work, a
picture from the far-famed Snyders, intended for a Bear beset with
dogs of all sorts. The picture had great effect, fine coloring, and
still finer finishing, but the Bear was no Bear at all, and the dogs
were so badly drawn, distorted caricatures that I am sure Snyders did
not draw from specimens put in real postures, in my way. I was quite
disappointed, so much had I heard of this man's pictures of
quadrupeds, and I thought of Dr. Traill, who, although well acquainted
with birds scientifically, told me he had an engraving of birds where
both legs of each individual were put on the same side, and that he
never noticed the defect till it was pointed out to him. This made me
reflect how easily man can be impressed by general effect and beauty.
I returned to the Institution and had the pleasure of meeting Captain
Basil Hall,[108] of the Royal Navy, his wife, and Lady Hunter. They
were extremely kind to me, and spoke of my dear friends the Rathbones
and Greggs in terms which delighted me. The captain asked if I did
not intend to exhibit by gaslight, and when I replied that the
Institution had granted me so much favor already that I could not take
it upon myself to speak of that, said that he should do so at once,
and would let me know the answer from Mr. Skene, the secretary. I
wrote the history of my picture of the Otter, and sent with a note to
Professor Wilson, who had asked for it.
_Wednesday, December 6._ After breakfast I called on Professor
Jameson, and as the Wild Turkey is to be in my first number, proposed
to give him the account of the habits of the Turkey Buzzard instead;
he appeared anxious to have any I would give. I spoke to him about the
presentation of my name to the Wernerian Society; he said it was
desirable for me to join it as it would attach me to the country, and
he would give his aid gladly. I visited Captain Basil Hall of the
Royal Navy; as I ascended the stairs to his parlor I heard the sweet
sounds of a piano, and found Mrs. Hall was the performer. Few women
have ever attracted me more at first sight; her youth and her fair
face are in unison with her manners; and her husband also received me
most kindly, especially when I recalled our previous slight
acquaintance. I spent here a most agreeable hour. They spoke of
visiting the States, and I urged them to do so. Captain Hall, a man of
extraordinary talents, a great traveller, and a rich man, has made the
most of all, and I found him the best of company. From thence to
friend Neill's establishment in the Old Town to see at what time my
memoranda must be ready for the press; to my astonishment I was told
that to-morrow was my last day, and I ran home to scribble. Professor
Monroe called on me with a friend and asked me what I would take to
draw skulls, etc., for him; then Mr. Syme brought an engraver to
consult with me on the subject of my portrait being immortalized.
Young Gregg paid me a visit, and at last I dressed in a hurry and ran
to Mr. Lizars' to know the way to Mr. Ritchie's, where I was to dine.
Mr. Lizars sent a young man to show me the way, and I arrived at the
appointed spot just one hour too late. I dined however, and dined
well. Miss Scott was there, Miss Combe, Mr. Weiss, and several others;
but when dinner was over and we ascended to the tea room, a crowd of
ladies and gentlemen not before seen were in waiting to see the
"Woodsman from America." We had music and dancing, and I did not leave
till a late hour and must now write more for the printers. I must tell
thee that someone gave a false note of one pound at my exhibition
rooms, and therefore _I_ paid him well to see my birds. A man who met
me to-day at the door of the Institution asked me if they were very
well worth seeing. Dost thou think I said "Yes"? Not I! I positively
said "No!" and off he went; but a few yards off I saw him stop to talk
to another man, when he returned and went in.
_Thursday, December 7._ I wrote as hard as I could till early this
morning, and finished the paper for Professor Jameson, who sent me a
note desiring me to put down the University of Edinburgh as a
subscriber to my work. I was highly pleased with this, being a
powerful leader. I saw in this day's paper that Charles Bonaparte had
arrived at Liverpool in the "Canada" from New York. How I longed to
see him! Had I been sure of his remaining at Liverpool a few days, I
positively would have gone there by the evening mail-coach. I saw
to-day two of my drawings in proof; I was well pleased with them;
indeed one of them I liked better than the first that were done. My
dinner was at Mr. Howe's, the editor of the "Courant." Mr. Allan the
artist came in at nine, when his lessons were just ended at the
Academy of Arts,--an extremely agreeable man, full of gayety, wit, and
good sense, a great traveller in Russia, Greece, and Turkey.
_Friday, December 8, 1826._ Men and their lives are very like the
different growths of our woods; the noble magnolia, all odoriferous,
has frequently the teasing nettle growing so near its large trunk as
to sometimes be touched by it. Edinburgh contains a Walter Scott, a
Wilson, a Jameson, but it contains also many nettles of the genus
Mammalia, amongst which _men_ hold a very prominent station. Now I
have run into one of these latter gentry. To speak out at once, one of
my drawings was gently purloined last evening from the rooms of the
Institution. So runs the fact; perhaps a few minutes before the doors
closed a somebody in a large cloak paid his shilling, entered the hall
and made his round, and with great caution took a drawing from the
wall, rolled it up, and walked off. The porter and men in attendance
missed it almost immediately, and this morning I was asked if I or Mr.
Lizars had taken it to be engraved. I immediately told Mr. Lizars; we
went to Mr. Bridges, and by his advice to the court, where Captain
Robeson--who, by the way, was at the battle of New Orleans--issued a
warrant against a young man of the name of I----, deaf and dumb, who
was strongly suspected. Gladly would I have painted a bird for the
poor fellow, and I certainly did not want him arrested, but the
Institution guards were greatly annoyed at the occurrence. However, I
induced Mr. Lizars to call on the family of the youth, which is a very
good one and well known in Edinburgh. I returned to my lodgings and on
the stairs met a beggar woman with a child in her arms, but passed her
without much notice beyond pitying her in her youth and poverty,
reached my door, where I saw a roll of paper; I picked it up, walked
in, opened it, and found my drawing of the Black-poll Warbler! Is not
this a curious story? The thief--whoever he may be, God pardon
him--had, we conceived, been terror-struck on hearing of the steps we
had taken, and had resorted to this method of restoring the drawing
before he was arrested. I was in time to stop the warrant, and the
affair was silenced. During the afternoon I was called on twice by
Capt. Basil Hall, who was so polite as to present me with a copy of
his work, two volumes, on South America, with a kind note, and an
invitation to dine with him on Thursday next at eight o'clock. The
weather is miserable.
_Saturday, December 9._ I wrote closely all morning from six to
twelve, only half dressed, and not stopping for breakfast beyond a cup
of coffee, and while thus busily employed Mr. Hall came in and handed
me a note from Lady Hunter, requesting the honor of my company on
Saturday next to dine at six; he looked at me with surprise and
doubtless thought me the strangest-looking man in the town. I had much
running about with Professor Jameson to the printer, and with my
manuscript to Mr. Lizars, who took it to Professor Brewster. We
visited the Museum together, called on a Mr. Wilson, where I saw a
most beautiful dead Pheasant that I longed to have to paint. Then to
Dr. Lizars' lecture on anatomy, and with him to the dissecting-rooms,
but one glance was enough for me, and I hastily, and I hope forever,
made my escape. The day was extremely wet, and I was glad to be in my
room. I hear Mr. Selby is expected next Monday night.
_December 10, Sunday._ My situation in Edinburgh borders almost on the
miraculous. With scarce one of those qualities necessary to render a
man able to pass through the throng of the learned people here, I am
positively looked on by all the professors and many of the principal
persons here as a very extraordinary man. I cannot comprehend this in
the least. Indeed I have received here so much kindness and attention
that I look forward with regret to my removal to Glasgow, fifty miles
hence, where I expect to go the last of this month. Sir William
Jardine has been spending a few days here purposely to see me, and I
am to meet Mr. Selby, and with these two gentlemen discuss the
question of a joint publication, which may possibly be arranged. It is
now a month since my work was begun by Mr. Lizars; the paper is of
unusual size, called "double elephant," and the plates are to be
finished in such superb style as to eclipse all of the same kind in
existence. The price of each number, which will contain five prints,
is two guineas, and all individuals have the privilege of subscribing
for the whole, or any portion of it. The two plates now finished are
truly beautiful. This number consists of the Turkey-cock, the Cuckoos
on the pawpaws, and three small drawings, which in the centre of the
large sheet have a fine effect, and an air of richness, that I think
must ensure success, though I do not yet feel assured that all will go
well. Yet on the other hand, all things bear a better aspect than I
expected to see for many months, if ever. I think that if my work
takes in Edinburgh, it will anywhere. I have strong friends here who
interest themselves in me, but I must wait patiently till the first
number is finished. Mr. Jameson, the first professor of this place,
and the conductor of the "Philosophical Journal," gives a beautiful
announcement of my work in the present number, with an account, by me,
of the Turkey Buzzard. Dr. Brewster also announces it, with the
introductory letter to my work, and Professor Wilson also, in
"Blackwood's Magazine." These three journals print upwards of thirty
thousand copies, so that my name will spread quickly enough. I am to
deliver lectures on Natural History at the Wernerian Society at each
of the meetings while I am here, and Professor Jameson told me I
should soon be made a member of all the other societies here, and that
would give my work a good standing throughout Europe. Much as I find
here to enjoy, the great round of company I am thrown in has become
fatiguing to me in the extreme, nor does it agree with my early
habits. I go out to dine at six, seven, or even eight o'clock in the
evening, and it is often one or two when the party breaks up; then
painting all day, with my immense correspondence which increases
daily, makes my head feel like an immense hornet's-nest, and my body
wearied beyond all calculation; yet it has to be done; those who have
my interests at heart tell me I must not refuse a single invitation.
_December 11, Monday._ Though I awoke feeling much depressed, my dull
feelings were soon dissipated by letters from my sweet wife and sons.
What joy to know them well and happy on the 14th and 27th of
September. My day was a busy one, and at seven I went to Mr. Lizars',
having engaged to go with him to the Antiquarian Society, where I met
many of my friends, saw a gun-barrel and other things that had
belonged to the Spanish Armada, and heard a curious and interesting
account of that vast fleet read by Dr. Hibbert, and saw the Scottish
antiquities belonging to the society.
_Tuesday, December 12._ This morning at ten I went to the house of Dr.
Brewster, whom I found writing in a large room with several fine
pictures on the walls. He received me very kindly, and in a few
minutes I began reading my paper on the habits of the Carrion Crow,
_Vultur atratus_. About midway my nervousness affected my respiration;
I paused a moment, and he was good enough to say it was highly
interesting. I resumed, and went on to the end, much to my relief. He
who has been brought up an auctioneer, or on the boards of some
theatre, with all the knowledge of the proper usage of the voice, and
all the _aplomb_ such a life would give, knows nothing of the feelings
of bashfulness which agitated me, a man who never looked into an
English grammar and who has forgotten most of what he learned in
French and Spanish ones--a man who has always felt awkward and shy in
the presence of a stranger--a man habituated to ramble alone, with his
thoughts usually bent on the beauties of Nature herself--this man,
_me_, to be seated opposite Dr. Brewster in Edinburgh, reading one of
my puny efforts at describing habits of birds that none but an
Almighty Creator can ever know, was ridiculously absurd in my
estimation, during all the time; besides, I also felt the penetrating
looks and keen observation of the learned man before me, so that the
cold sweat started from me. As I wiped my forehead on finishing my
paper, a large black dog came in, caressed his master, and made a
merciful diversion, and as my agitation gradually subsided I was able
to talk with Dr. Brewster and was afterwards introduced to his lady,
who put me soon at my ease, and told me I was to be introduced to Sir
Walter Scott on Monday next at the Royal Academy. Poor me!--far from
Sir Walter I could talk to him; hundreds of times have I spoken to him
quite loudly in the woods, as I looked on the silvery streamlets, or
the dense swamps, or the noble Ohio, or on mountains losing their
peaks in gray mists. How many times have I longed for him to come to
my beloved country, that he might describe, as no one else ever can,
the stream, the swamp, the river, the mountain, for the sake of future
ages. A century hence they will not be here as I see them, Nature will
have been robbed of many brilliant charms, the rivers will be
tormented and turned astray from their primitive courses, the hills
will be levelled with the swamps, and perhaps the swamps will have
become a mound surmounted by a fortress of a thousand guns. Scarce a
magnolia will Louisiana possess, the timid Deer will exist nowhere,
fish will no longer abound in the rivers, the Eagle scarce ever
alight, and these millions of lovely songsters be driven away or slain
by man. Without Sir Walter Scott these beauties must perish unknown to
the world. To the great and good man himself I can never say this,
therefore he can never know it, or my feelings towards him--but if he
did? What have I to say more than a world of others who all admire
him, perhaps are better able to do so, because more enlightened. Ah!
Walter Scott! when I am presented to thee my head will droop, my heart
will swell, my limbs will tremble, my lips will quiver, my tongue
congeal; nevertheless I shall feel elevated if I am permitted to touch
the hand to which the world owes so much.
_December 13, Wednesday._ I have spent the greater portion of this day
in the company of Mr. Selby the ornithologist, who, in appearance is
well formed, and in manners clever and polite, yet plain and
unassuming. We were together some hours at the Institution,--he was
greatly pleased with my drawings,--and we then dined at Mr. Lizars' in
company with Dr. Lizars, and we all talked ornithology. I wish I
possessed the scientific knowledge of the subject that Mr. Selby does.
He wished to hear my paper on the "Buzzard," and after doing so, took
it with him to read to Sir Wm. Jardine, to whom he goes to-morrow, but
will return on Monday. Later Dr. Brewster came to my room with the
proof of the paper on the "Carrion Crow." He read it, and we both
corrected. He told me it was a question whether or no I could be made
a member of the Royal Academy, for only _thirty_ foreigners were
allowed by law, and the number was already complete; still he hoped an
exception would be made in my case. He thanked me very cordially for
my paper, and said Sir Walter Scott wished to meet me, and would do so
on Monday at the Royal Academy. Mr. Bridges gave me a very fine notice
in the _Scotsman_, and has again invited me to dine with him to meet
some distinguished Germans, and before that I must call at Lord
Clancarty's to see Mrs. Murray.
_Thursday, December 14._ I paid my visit to Mrs. Murray this forenoon,
but the lady was out; so I handed my card to the slender youth who had
opened the door and who stood before me looking at my hair like an ass
at a fine thistle, and then made off quickly to Dr. Brewster. My
business was before him in an instant; I wished not to be introduced
to Sir Walter in a crowd, and he promised me not to do so. Much
relieved I went to the University to see Dr. Andrew Brown, Professor
of Rhetoric. I found him a very polished man, and after some
conversation he asked me to write him a paper on the manners and
customs of Indians. But I must promise less writing of this kind, for
I am too busy otherwise; however, immediately on my return home I sat
down to write a long list of memoranda for a journey in America which
I had promised Captain Basil Hall, and I wrote till my head ached. Mr.
Daniel Lizars has invited me to dine with him on Friday at three, and
has procured two cats, which he wishes me to paint. Now this suits me
to a "T"--a long morning's work, a short meal, and some hours more of
work; very different from to-day, for it was five minutes of seven
when I reached Captain Hall's. We dined delightfully with just the
company he had promised me, and I was not compelled to ask any one to
take wine with me, a thing in my opinion detestable quite, a foppish
art I cannot bear. I wish everybody was permitted to drink when he is
thirsty, or at least only when he likes, and not when he dislikes it.
The ladies having left us, the map of my native land was put on the
table; I read my notes, the Captain followed the course with his
pencil from New York to New Orleans, visiting besides Niagara, St.
Louis, and a hundred other places. We talked of nothing but his
journey in my dear country, and Mrs. Hall is delighted at the
prospect. The Captain wishes to write a book, and he spoke of it with
as little concern as I should say, "I will draw a duck;" is it not
surprising? He said to me, "Why do not you write a little book telling
what you have seen?" I cannot write at all, but if I could how could I
make a _little_ book, when I have seen enough to make a dozen _large_
books? I will not write at all.
_Friday, December 15._ I have just returned from the theatre, where I
saw for the first time "The Beggars' Opera" and "The Lord of the
Manor." They were both badly represented, most certainly. Only one
lady could sing, or act her part at all well. It was most truly a
Beggars' Opera; I went with Mr. Daniel Lizars and his wife and
brother-in-law. They were all desirous to see a certain Mr. St. Clair
perform; but I truly think that the gentleman in question had drank
too much brandy this day, or was it of the smoky whiskey which these
Scots relish? I did little work this day, but walked much to refresh
myself after all the hard work and constant writing I have lately
done. The weather was most inviting, and as pleasant as Louisiana at
this season. Upwards of two hundred people were at my exhibition, and
to-morrow it closes. Baron Stokoe called whilst I was absent and left
word he wished to see me, that he had heard from a friend of mine,
whom I suppose to be Charles Bonaparte. Baron Stokoe was formerly a
physician of eminence in the British service; when Dr. O'Meara was
taken away from St. Helena, where he was physician to Napoleon, this
gentleman was put in his place, but did not suit the peculiar ideas of
his barbarous governor, and was also dismissed, not only from the
island, but from the service, with a trifling pension. He had become
acceptable to Napoleon even in the short time they were together, and
when he returned from that lonely rock was employed by Joseph
Bonaparte to attend his daughters from Rome to Philadelphia. I met him
with Charles Bonaparte during his stay in America. So pleased was
Joseph Bonaparte with his conduct that he is now one of his
_pensionnaires_, and his general agent in Europe.