During the whole of these three days we _Narrative of the Voyage of H.M.S. Rattlesnake, Commanded By the Late Captain Owen Stanley, R.N., F.R.S. Etc. During the Years 1846-1850. — Volume 2 Including Discoveries and Surveys in New Guinea, the Louisiade Archipelago, Etc. to Which Is Added the Account of Mr. E.B. Kennedy's Expedition for the Exploration of the Cape York Peninsula. By John Macgillivray, F.R.G.S. Naturalist to the Expedition.

land, wooded pretty thickly with stringy-bark, box, and apple-gum,

interspersed with occasional sandy flats, producing a broad-leafed

Melaleuca, and a pretty species of Grevillea, with pinnatifid, silvery

leaves. Neither the Melaleuca nor the Grevillea grew more than twenty

feet high. On the flats we found a great number of ant-hills, remarkable

for their height and size; they were of various forms, but chiefly

conical, some of them rose ten feet high. From the appearance of the

ant-hills I should take the sub-soil to be of a reddish clay.

August 23.

We camped by the side of a creek running to the westward, with rather a

broad bed, and steep banks of strong clay. There was no water in the

creeks except in holes.

A tribe of natives, from eighteen to twenty in number, were seen coming

down the creek, each carrying a large bundle of spears. Three of our

party left the camp and went towards them, carrying in their hands green

boughs, and making signs to the blacks to lay down their spears and come

to us. After making signals to them for some minutes, three or four of

them laid down their spears and approached us. I went back to the camp

and fetched a few fish-hooks, and a tin plate marked with Mr. Kennedy's

initials; having presented them with these they went away and appeared

quite friendly. Shortly after we had camped, Goddard and Jackey went out

for the purpose of shooting wallabies; they parted company at the base of

a hill, intending to go round and meet on the other side, but missing

each other, Jackey returned to the camp without his companion. To our

great alarm Goddard did not return all night, although we kept up a good

fire as a beacon to show him where we were camped, and fired a pistol

every five minutes during the night.

August 24.

Three of our party, accompanied by Jackey, rode to the spot where the

latter had left Goddard on the previous day, intending, if possible, to

track him, and succeeded in doing so for some distance to the eastward,

but then coming to some stony ground, they lost the track.

They returned in about six hours, hoping to find him at the camp, but

were disappointed. We now began to fear that our companion was lost, and

poor Jackey displayed great uneasiness, fearing that he might be blamed

for leaving him, and repeatedly saying that he did not wish Goddard to

leave the camp at all, and that he had waited for him some time on the

opposite side of the hill, where they were to meet. Four fresh horses

were saddled, and Jackey, with Mr. Kennedy, Wall, and Mitchell, were just

on the point of starting to renew the search, when to our great joy we

observed him at a distance, approaching the camp. It would have been

sadly discouraging to the whole party to have lost one of our companions

in so wild and desolate a spot. We made but a short stage to-day in a

northerly direction, and camped by the side of a creek running west by

south, which, with the last two creeks we had passed, we doubted not,

from the appearance of the country, ran into the river we had crossed on

the 20th instant. The country appeared to fall considerably to the

westward. All the rivers and large creeks we had seen on this side the

range (that crossed on the 10th instant) rose in or near the coast range,

and appeared to run westerly across the peninsula into the Gulf of

Carpentaria.

Although few of them appeared to be constantly running, yet there is an

abundance of water to be found in holes and reaches of the rivers and

creeks. Where there was any scrub by the side of the creeks, it was

composed principally of the climbing palm (Calamus), Glyceria, Kennedya,

Mucuna, and a strong growing Ipomoea, with herbaceo-fibrous roots and

palmate leaves; and in a few places bamboos were growing.

The trees were, Eugenias, Terminalias, Castanospermums, with two or three

kinds of deciduous figs, bearing large bunches of yellowish fruit on the

trunks. Although we frequently partook of these figs I found they did not

agree with us; three or four of the party who frequently ate a great

quantity, although advised not to do so, suffered severely from pain in

the head and swelling of the eyes. The forest trees on the ironstone

ridges were stringy-bark, and on the grassy hills box, Moreton Bay ash,

and a tree belonging to the natural order Leguminosae, with axillary

racemes of white apetalous flowers, long, broad, flat, many-seeded

legumes, large, bipinnate leaves, leaflets oval, one inch long, and

having dark fissured bark; on the flat stiff soil grew ironbark,

apple-tree, and another species of Angophora, with long lanceolate

leaves, seed vessels as large as the egg of a common fowl and a smooth

yellow bark.

August 27.

This day being Sunday we had prayers at eleven o'clock. We saved the

blood of the sheep we had killed for today's food, and having cut up the

heart, liver, and kidneys, we mixed it all with a little flour and boiled

it for breakfast. By this means we made some small saving, and it was a

dish that we were very fond of. We saved all the wool that we could get

from our sheep, for the purpose of stuffing our saddles, a process which

was frequently required, owing to the poor condition of our horses.

August 28.

We started early this morning, but had not travelled far when one of our

horses fell from weakness; we placed him on his legs four times during

the day, but finding the poor animal could not walk, we shot him and took

sufficient meat from him with us to last us two days. After making but a

short stage, over ironstone ridges, covered with stringy-bark, and loamy

flats, producing Melaleucas and Grevilleas, we camped beside a small

creek, in the sandy bed of which there was no water, but from which we

soon obtained some by digging a hole about two feet deep. We afterwards

found there was plenty of water in the creek higher up to the eastward.

August 29.

We were obliged to leave another horse behind us this morning as he was

quite unable to travel. We camped by the sandy bed of a very broad river,

with water only in reaches and holes. There is, however, evidently a

great deal of water running here occasionally, as the bed of the river

was six or seven hundred yards wide, with two or three channels. The

flood-marks on the trees were fifteen feet high; it has a north-easterly

course; its bed was composed in places of large blocks of granite and

trap-rock, which was very difficult to walk upon, being very slippery.

Fine melaleucas were growing on each side, which with their long

pendulous shoots and narrow silvery leaves, afforded a fine shade from

the heat of the sun. There was plenty both of grass and water for the

horses, but most of them continued to grow weaker.

August 30 and 31.

The country was very mountainous and so full of deep gullies, that we

were frequently obliged to follow the course of a rocky creek, the

turnings of which were very intricate; to add to our difficulties, many

of the hills were covered with scrub so thickly that it was with much

difficulty that we could pursue our course through it. We had intended to

have kept along the bank of the river, thinking it might lead us to

Princess Charlotte's Bay, and although unable to do so, we did not as yet

lose sight of the river altogether.

September 1.

All this day we continued travelling over very uneven country, full of

precipitous rocks and gullies, until we came to a bend of the river: we

now followed it in its tortuous course through the rocks, till we came to

a flat country where its channels were divided by high green banks, on

which were growing large drooping tea-trees (melaleucas); growing on

these I found a beautiful species of Loranthus, with large fascicles of

orange coloured flowers, the leaves cordate, and clasping the stem. On

the hills I found a Brachychiton, with crimson flowers; the tree had a

stunted growth, with deciduous leaves. I collected as much of the gum as

I could, and advised the others to do the same; we ate it with the

roasted seeds, but were unable to find much of the gum or of the seeds.

September 2.

We travelled over uneven rocky ground, and crossed several gullies, and

camped by the bed of a river, at a spot where there were fine reaches of

water, full of Nymphaea and Villarsia. There was plenty of good grass in

the valley of the river, which was not very wide here, but on the hills

many parts had been recently burned, and the grass was just springing up.

September 3.

Sunday. We had prayers at eleven o'clock, and afterwards, during the day,

we shot a small emu and a kangaroo. Being camped by the side of the

river, we were able to catch a few fish, which were a most acceptable

change to us.

The country through which we had passed for the last two days consisted

of a good stiff soil, well covered with grass, openly timbered and well

watered.

September 4 and 5.

The country continued much the same, making travelling most difficult and

laborious. We were now in the vicinity of Cape Tribulation. While

traversing the bed of the river, in which we were in many places obliged

to travel, we passed two very high peaked hills to the westward.

September 6.

We now found the river beginning to run in all directions through the

hills, over which it was impossible to travel. We were consequently

forced to keep the bed of the river, our horses falling every few

minutes, in consequence of the slippery surface of the rocks over which

they were obliged to pass--consisting of dark granite.

The sterility of the hills here is much relieved by the bunches of

beautiful large yellow flowers of the Cochlospermum Gossypium,

interspersed with the large balls of white cotton, just bursting from the

seed-vessels. I collected a bag full of this cotton, wherewith to stuff

our pack-saddles, as our sheep did not supply us with wool enough for

that purpose. On these hills, too, I saw a beautiful Calythrix, with pink

flowers, and two or three very pretty dwarf acacias. As Mr. Kennedy and

myself were walking first of the party, looking out for the best path for

the horses to travel in, I fell with violence, and unfortunately broke

Mr. Kennedy's mountain barometer, which I carried. I also bruised one of

my fingers very much, by crushing it with my gun.

September 7 and 8.

We continued following the river through its westward course, through a

very mountainous country. On the hills I saw a very handsome Bauhinia, a

tree about twenty feet high, with spreading branches covered with

axillary fascicles of red flowers, long broad flat legumes, pinnate

leaves, leaflets oval, about one inch long; an Erythrina, with fine

racemes of orange-coloured flowers, with long narrow keel, and broad

vexillum, leaves palmate, and three to five lunate leaflets, long, round,

painted legumes, red seeds; also a rose-coloured Brachychiton, with

rather small flowers, a deciduous tree of stunted habit, about twenty

feet high. We also passed narrow belts of low sandy loam, covered with

Banksias, broad-leafed Melaleucas, and the orange-coloured Grevillea I

have before spoken of. On these flats we again met with large ant-hills,

six to ten feet high, and eight feet in circumference; the land at the

base was of a reddish colour.

September 9.

We had a fine view of the surrounding country from the top of a high

hill, in the midst of a range over which we passed. To the west and round

to the south the country appeared to be fine undulating forest land,

intersected by numerous creeks and small rivers falling considerably to

the westward, as in fact all the water had been running for some days

past. Doubtless there must be plenty of water in the holes and reaches of

these rivers and creeks at all seasons, but in the rainy season many of

them must be deep and rapid streams, as the flood-marks on the trees were

from fifteen to twenty feet high. The river along the course of which we

had been so long travelling varied in width from two hundred to eight

hundred yards. It has two, or, in some places, three distinct channels,

and in the flat country through which it passes these are divided by

large drooping melaleucas.

It is singular that the country here should be so destitute of game; we

had seen a few wallabies and some ducks, but were seldom able to shoot

any of them; we had not seen more than four or five emus altogether since

we started; a few brown hawks which we occasionally shot, were almost the

only addition we were enabled to make to our small ration. To-day we got

an iguana and two ducks, which with the water in which our mutton was

boiled, would have made us a good pot of soup, had there been any

substance in the mutton. Even thin as it was, we were very glad to get

it. The rivers also seemed to contain but few fish, as we only caught a

few of two different kinds, one of which without scales, resembled the

catfish, caught near Sydney;* the other was a dark thick fish with

scales.

(*Footnote. Plotosus macrocephalus.)

September 10.

Finding that the river continued running to the westward, and not as we

had hoped towards Princess Charlotte's Bay, we left it and turned in a

northerly direction, travelling over very rocky ridges covered with

cochlospermums and acacias, interspersed with occasional patches of open

forest land, and strewed with isolated blocks of course granite

containing crystals of quartz and laminae of white mica. Prayers as usual

at eleven o'clock.

We had not seen natives for several days, but this night, whilst one of

the party was keeping watch, a short distance from the fire, about eleven

o'clock, he heard the chattering of the blacks. Three spears were almost

immediately thrown into the camp and fell near the fire, but fortunately

without injuring any of the party. We fired a few shots in the direction

from which the spears came; the night being so dark that we could not see

them. We entertained fears that some of our horses might be speared, as

they were at some distance from the camp, but fortunately the blacks

offered us no further molestation.

September 11 and 12.

We pursued our northern course, the ground becoming very rotten; by the

sides of small creeks in sandy flats were belts of broad-leafed

Melaleucas and Grevilleas. We met with scrubs of Leptospermum, Fabricia,

and Dodonaea. By the creeks, when the ground was sandy, we saw Abrus

precatorius, and a small tree about fifteen feet high, with bi-pinnate

leaves, the leaflets very small, with long flat legumes containing ten or

twelve black and red seeds, like those of Abrus precatorius, but rather

larger.

September 13 and 14.

Most part of these days we travelled over a country of stiff soil,

covered with iron-bark, and divided at intervals by belts of sandy

ground, on which grew Banksias, Callitris, and a very pretty Lophostemon,

about twenty feet high, with long narrow lanceolate leaves, and a very

round bushy top. By the side of the small streams running through the

flat ground, I saw a curious herbaceous plant, with large pitchers at the

end of the leaves, like those of the common pitcher-plant (Nepenthes

distillatoria). It was too late in the season to find flowers, but the

flower-stems were about eighteen inches high, and the pitchers would hold

about a wine-glass full of water. This interesting and singular plant

very much attracted the attention of all our party.

We here fell in with a camp of natives. Immediately they saw us they ran

away from their camp, leaving behind them some half-cooked food,

consisting of the meal of some seeds (most likely Moreton Bay chestnuts)

which had been moistened, and laid in small irregular pieces on a flat

stone with a small fire beneath it. We took a part of this baked meal,

leaving behind some fish-hooks as payment. In the camp we also found a

considerable quantity of Pandanus fruit, which grows very plentifully

here. Although, however, it is sweet and pleasant to the taste, I found

that the natives did not eat largely of it, as it possessed very relaxing

qualities, and caused violent headache, with swelling beneath the eyes.

Some narrow belts of land we passed here betrayed indications of having

been frequently inundated by fresh water. The ground was very uneven,

full of small hillocks which were hidden by long grass, which caused our

weak horses to fall very frequently.

September 15.

This day we had better travelling, the soil becoming a strong greyish

loam; the forest land open and free from scrub, the trees principally

consisting of iron-bark, box, and the leguminous tree, with bi-pinnate

leaves, and dark fissured bark I have before alluded to. We saw here a

great many pigeons of various kinds; Mr. Wall shot one pair of Geophaps

plumifera, which he preserved; also a pair of small pigeons of a greyish

colour, with red round the eyes, which he considered new. I also saw a

large tree and obtained specimens of it, belonging to the natural order

Bignoniaceae, with terminal spikes of yellow flowers, and rough cordate

leaves; and a Proteaceous plant with long compound racemes of white

flowers, and deeply cut leaves, resembling a tree with true pinnate

leaves. The large-seeded Angophora mentioned by me before, also grew in

this district.

About ten o'clock we came upon the banks of a very fine river, with a

very broad bed, and steep banks on both sides. No doubt this was the

river we had seen to the eastward from our camp on the 9th instant. Mr.

Kennedy considered this stream to rise somewhere near Cape Tribulation,

and after running northward about thirty miles, to turn to the

south-west, the way it was running when we came upon it. In this place it

appeared a fine deep river, and we followed it in its south-west course,

at a short distance from its banks, for six or seven miles. The

south-east bank was, for the last three or four miles we traced it,

covered with a narrow belt of scrub, composed of Flagellaria, Jasminum,

Phyllanthus, and a rambling plant, belonging to the natural order

Verbenaceae, with terminal spikes of white, sweet-scented flowers. The

trees were principally Castanospermum, Melia, Rulingia, and

Sarcocephalus, and a beautiful tree belonging to the natural order

Bombaceae, probably to the genus Eriodendron, with large spreading

branches, which, as well as the trunk, were covered with spines. These

trees are from thirty to fifty feet in height, and produce large crimson

campanulate flowers, composed of five large stiff petals, about two

inches long; stamens numerous, all joining at the base, and divided again

into five parcels; the filaments are the same length as the petals; five

cleft stigma; large five-celled capsule, many-seeded cells, the seeds

being wrapped in a white silky cotton. This tree was deciduous, the

leaves being palmate, and grew on stiff soil: its large crimson flowers

attracted universal admiration.

We crossed the river at a spot where its banks were not so steep, and

where there was but from one to three feet of water; in some places the

bottom was sandy and in others rocky, but we could see rock only in the

bed of the river. We camped on the side of the river, on some recently

burned grass; five of the party went fishing a short distance up the

river, and caught a few fish. The country here to the west and the

south-west was open undulating forest land, which had been burned some

short time before, and the grass just growing again, formed beautiful

feed for our horses and sheep.

Towards evening about six or eight natives made their appearance, on the

same side of the river as our camp; when about two hundred yards from us

they shipped their spears in their throwing-sticks, and with other

warlike gestures gradually drew near to us, making a great noise,

doubtless thinking to frighten us. There being a wide deep gully between

the natives and our camp, we drew up along the edge of it, with our

firearms all ready to give them a warm reception should they endeavour to

approach to closer hostilities. We endeavoured to make them understand

that our intentions were friendly, and that we wished them to be

peaceable; but they seemed to construe our signals to make them

comprehend this, into indications of fear on our part; this increased

their courage, and strengthened their determination to drive us away if

possible, although they would not come within reach of our guns. We

however fired at them, and although none were hurt, they appeared much

frightened at the report of the firearms. They left us and went in the

direction taken by the five of our party who had gone fishing, and for

the safety of whom we began to be alarmed; our fears were increased, by

hearing the report of a gun a few minutes afterwards. It seemed they had

seen our party fishing by the side of the river, and instantly ran at

them, to attack them; but one of the party placed on the bank as a

lookout, fired at them as they came up, just as they were preparing to

throw their spears, on which they turned their backs, and took to flight

as fast as they could.

September 16.

This morning after breakfast, Mitchell and myself took two horses and

re-crossed the river. We went about two miles back to a spot where I had

seen some Portulaca, intending to bring some of it back to the camp to

boil as a vegetable, it being the only description of food of the kind

that we had been able to obtain throughout our journey. We filled a bag

with it and returned to the camp, when I found half a damper, one meal's

bread had been stolen from the stores during my absence. This was not the

first theft of the kind that had been committed, and it was found

necessary to watch the provisions night and day. Mr. Kennedy was anxious

to discover the thief in this instance, as it was stolen in open daylight

while Mr. Kennedy himself was keeping a lookout in his tent, not twenty

yards from where the provisions were stolen; every man's load was

searched, but in vain, and Mr. Kennedy, knowing that a party left the

camp for the purpose of fishing a short distance up the river, and

another party a few yards down the river to wash some clothes--took

Jackey with him, who, by detecting some crumbs on the ground, discovered

that the damper had been eaten at the place where the clothes were

washed.

So careless were some of the party of the fatal consequences of our

provisions being consumed before we arrived at Cape York, that as soon as

we camped and the horses were unpacked, it was necessary that all the

provisions should be deposited together on a tarpaulin, and that I should

be near them by day and by night, so that I could not leave the camp at

all, unless Mr. Kennedy and Mr. Wall undertook to watch the stores. I was

obliged to watch the food whilst cooking; it was taken out of the boiler

in the presence of myself and two or three others, and placed in the

stores till morning.

It was seldom that I could go to bed before nine or ten o'clock at night,

and I had to be up at four in the morning to see our tea made and

sweetened, and our breakfast served out by daylight. The meals we cut up

in thirteen parts, as nearly equal as possible, and one person touched

each part in succession; whilst another person, with his back turned,

called out the names of the party, the person named taking the part

touched. The scrupulous exactness we were obliged to practise with

respect to our provisions was increased by our misfortune in getting next

to nothing to assist our scanty ration; while the extreme labour to which

we were subjected increased our appetites. Two of the party always went

out at daylight to fetch the horses in, and it was necessary we should

start at early morning on account of the great heat in the middle of the

day. We always endeavoured to make a fair stage by ten o'clock, and then,

if in a convenient place, to halt: sometimes we were obliged to halt at

nine o'clock, but we started again generally about three or four o'clock

P.M., and travelled on till six.

Twelve or fourteen natives made their appearance at the camp this

evening, in the same direction as on the previous day. Each one was armed

with a large bundle of spears, and with boomerangs. Their bodies were

painted with a yellowish earth, which with their warlike gestures, made

them look very ferocious. The grass in the position they had taken up was

very long and very dry, quite up to the edge of the gully; they set it on

fire in three or four places, and the wind blowing from them to us, it

burned very rapidly. Thinking we should be frightened at this display

they followed the fire with their spears shipped, making a most hideous

noise, and with the most savage gestures. Knowing the fire could not

reach us, as there was nothing to burn on our side the gully, we drew up

towards them with our firearms prepared. They approached near enough to

throw three spears into our camp, one of which went quite through one of

our tents. No one was hurt, but a few of our party fired at them; we

could not tell whether any were wounded, as they disappeared almost

immediately. We kept three on watch this night for fear of the natives.

September 17 to 21.

Leaving the river, we turned north-west, and had occasionally fair

travelling over stiff soil, intersected by many creeks, most of them dry,

but were everywhere able to find water at intervals of a few miles. We

passed over some ironstone ridges, and rocky hills, covered with

Callitris, Cochlospermum, and Sterculias. On the stiff soil the trees

were ironbark, box, apple-gum, and some large acacias, with long

lanceolate phyllodia, and large spikes of golden-coloured flowers. The

grass here in the valleys between the hills had been burned, and was

grown up again about eight or ten inches high.

September 22.

We crossed a creek running eastward, overhung by Melaleucas and

arborescent callistemons, with plenty of grass on both sides; the soil

appeared to become more sandy than that over which we had hitherto

passed.

September 23.

We proceeded in our course, travelling over sandy ridges covered with

Eugenia, Exocarpus, and a very pretty Eucalyptus, with rose-coloured

flowers and obcordate leaves, and yellow soft bark, also a dwarfish tree

with dark green leaves, and axillary racemes of round monospermons, fruit

of a purple colour, with a thin rind of a bitter flavour; also a great

many trees of moderate size, from fifteen to twenty feet high, of rather

pendulous habit, oval lanceolate exstipulate leaves, loaded with an

oblong yellow fruit, having a rough stone inside; the part covering the

stone has, when ripe, a mealy appearance, and very good flavour. I

considered from its appearance it was the fruit which Leichhardt called

the nonda, which we always afterwards called it; we all ate plentifully

of it.

The weather for the last few days had been very hot, the thermometer

ranging in the shade from 95 to 100 degrees at noon; still there was

generally a breeze in the morning from the eastward, and in the evening

from the west. We camped by the same creek as on the previous day, but in

our present position it was running South-West, with several lagoons in

the valley, full of Nymphaea and Villarsia; our latitude here was 15

degrees 33 minutes south.

September 24.

We crossed the creek and proceeded northward, till we camped by a dry

creek, from the bed of which we obtained water by digging. During the

day's journey, we passed over some flats of rotten honeycomb ground, on

which nothing was growing but a few stunted shrubs, and a blue herbaceous

plant belonging to the order Boragineae. We also passed over other sandy

flats covered with broad-leafed Melaleucas and Grevillias, and a few

Banksias. On these flats ant-hills occurred, and in their vicinity there

was seldom much grass. The grasses generally growing there were annual

kinds. It was Mr. Kennedy's opinion that the creek we crossed this

morning joined the river we left on the 16th, and formed the Mitchell,

although the country hereabouts did not resemble the banks of the

Mitchell, as described by Leichhardt; but the appearance of the country

varies so much every few miles, particularly to the westward, that it is

impossible to support an opposite opinion on this ground.

September 25.

As three of the horses could not be found this morning, four men were

left behind to search for them while the rest of the party travelled on.

They had not come up with us at about four o'clock, and being anxious to

find water before dark, we proceeded along a narrow open valley covered

with long grass and large pandanus trees, skirted on each side by rather

scrubby forest land. At dark we reached a large waterhole. One of the men

left behind shortly arrived, and stated that the rest had halted for the

night. Mr. Kennedy being anxious to bring all the horses to water, and to

have the party together, sent me back to conduct them to the camp, which

I very soon did, even though it was dark, the track being very plain. We

collected a great many nondas to-day and baked some of them with our

bread, which was the only way we could eat them cooked; they were much

better fresh from the trees, but we found them rather astringent. Spring,

our best kangaroo dog, was unable to come up to the camp this day, being

overpowered by the heat of the sun, a circumstance we all regretted, as

he was a most excellent watchdog.

September 26.

We travelled a good stage this morning before we found water--in a sandy

creek, where the country seemed to fall slightly to the north-east. We

still hoped to find a river running into Princess Charlotte's Bay.

September 27.

We proceeded North-East over alternating sandy ridges and marshy flats;

the latter, though dry where we passed over them, presented the

appearance of being generally inundated. We camped by the side of a rocky

creek, containing very little water.

September 28.

Just as we were about to start this morning, two natives, carrying a

bundle of reeds and a basket, passed within a short distance of our camp,

and seemed to take no notice of us. Our sheep were not to be found,

having rambled to a distance: although without a sheepfold, this was the

first instance in which the sheep had strayed; they generally remained by

the fire, towards which they were driven at night, till morning.

We had never seen a wild native dog during the journey. Our dog that we

had left behind came into the camp to-night, very much exhausted, having

travelled about thirty miles; he must have subsisted on nondas, as it was

impossible he could have caught anything, and we had seen him eat them

before. He died the following morning.

September 30.

After travelling a short distance we crossed a small river running

eastward: for some distance down it, the water was brackish, and at

spring-tide the salt water came up to our camp; but we obtained good

water from a small lagoon near the camp. We proceeded over a large plain

well covered with good grass, the soil stiff clay. We proceeded about

five or six miles on this plain, turning westward towards a lagoon

surrounded by Stravadiums and a few very large palms. We hoped to find

water in it, but it was dry, and fearing we should not be able to reach

water before dark if we proceeded in this direction, we thought it better

to return to our camp.

October 1.

We had prayers this day as usual on Sundays, at eleven o'clock. We saw

native fires at a distance to the north-east of our camp, but the natives

did not come near us. I went up what we fancied was the river by which we

had camped, but found it only a creek; but it had plenty of water in it

at this season. There were several small lagoons near it. There were

large drooping tea-trees (Melaleucas) growing on its banks, and large

palm trees, of the same kind as those I had seen in the plain the day

before, and which were by far the finest palms I had ever seen; the

trunks were not very high, from fifteen to thirty feet in height, but

very large in bulk, varying from six to eight feet in circumference: they

had large fan-shaped leaves, with slightly curved spines on the

footstalk. It is a dioecious palm, the female plants bearing an immense

quantity of round fruit, about the size of a greengage plum, of a purple

colour, and rather disagreeable flavour; the pulp covering the seed was

very oily, and not a leaf to be seen on any of the fruit-bearing plants;

the whole top consists of branches full of ripe and unripe seeds. Bushels

of seeds were lying beneath some of the trees, it seeming that but few

were eaten by birds or small animals. One of our party suffered severely

from eating too freely of them as they brought on diarrhoea. I measured

two or three of the leaves of the male plants, and those not of the

largest size, and found them to measure six feet in the widest part, and

four feet and half in the narrowest. These leaves were split by the wind

into segments of various widths. The grass growing to the westward of our

camp was not so high as that to the eastward, and appeared to consist of

a larger proportion of annual grasses, the perennial grass growing only

in tufts; near the river it was covered with an annual Ipomoea, of very

strong growth; the leaves and blossoms were withered, but I obtained

seeds. We shot three ducks to-day, and Wall killed a wallaby of a light

grey colour, long soft fur, and rather bushy tail; he thought it new, and

preserved the skin. I also obtained specimens of a beautiful plant, a

shrub about two feet high, with white sweet-scented blossoms, belonging

to the natural order Rubiaceae, and several other interesting plants.

Lately, however, my specimens had been very much spoiled, being torn from

the horse's back so frequently, that I grew disheartened to see all the

efforts I had made, made in vain, although I still took every method to

preserve them from injury.

October 2.

This morning we proceeded across the plain, and when we had advanced

about two miles upon it, we discovered that the natives had set the grass

on fire behind us, and the wind blowing from the eastward, and the grass

growing thick and high, it rapidly gained upon us; we made all possible

haste to some burned ground which we had seen on Saturday, and reached it

only a few minutes before the fire. We were enveloped in smoke and ashes,

but fortunately no one was burned. The natives did not come near us,

although no doubt they watched us, and saw us proceeding to the part of

the plain that was burned. The plain extended a great distance to the

westward, and in crossing it one of our horses knocked up and could

travel no longer; Mr. Kennedy ordered him to be bled, and we not liking

to lose the blood, boiled it as a blood-pudding with a little flour, and

in the situation we were, we enjoyed it very much.

October 3.

We killed the horse this morning as he was not able to stand, and dried

the meat to carry with us; we made a small stage of saplings on which to

dry the meat, which was cut off close to the bone as clean as possible,

and then cut in thin slices, and laid on the stage in the sun to dry, and

the sun being very hot, it dried well; the heart, liver, and kidneys were

parboiled, and cut up fine, and mixed with the blood of the horse and

about three pounds of flour; they made four puddings, with which, after

they had boiled about four hours, we satisfied our appetites better than

we had been able to do for some time: it was served up in the same manner

as our usual rations, in equal parts, and each man had a right to reserve

a portion of his mess till the next day, but very little was saved. Mr.

Kennedy found that it was even necessary to have the horseflesh watched

whilst drying, finding that two or three of the party had secreted small

quantities amongst their clothes; such precautions were quite necessary,

as well in justice to the whole of the party, as to keep up the strength

of all, which seemed to be very fast declining. At night we made a fire

to smoke the meat, and to destroy the maggots, which were very numerous

in it; we packed the meat in empty flour bags.

October 4.

We proceeded northward over small sandy plains, covered with annual

grass, which was now very much withered, and through belts of dwarf bushy

Melaleucas and Banksias. We were not far from Princess Charlotte's Bay,

Jane's Table Land being in sight. We came to the side of a salt lagoon,

very nearly dry; we found it covered with salt, of which we took about 20

pounds, which was as much as we could carry, but even this was a very

seasonable help; we rubbed about two pounds of it into our meat. We

encamped by a small creek, but the water was brackish, and not being able

to find any other we were obliged to make use of it. One of our horses

was slightly hurt by a stump of a mangrove tree. All we got from the

horse we last killed was sixty-five pounds of meat.

October 5 and 6.

We travelled over sandy soil, but with little grass, meeting frequently

with salt lagoons, surrounded by various salsolaceous plants. Near the

edge of a saltwater creek we found a native camp, composed of about seven

or eight huts, curiously and neatly built of a conical form; all very

nearly of the same size, about five and a half feet in diameter at the

base, and six and a half feet high. They were made by placing saplings in

the ground in a slanting position, which were tied together at the top

and woven inside like wickerwork, with strips of small bamboo canes. The

whole was then covered with palm leaves, over which was a coating of

tea-tree bark, very neatly fastened by strips of cane. They were

substantially built, and would no doubt keep out the wet effectually.

They seemed to be occupied by the natives only in the rainy season, as,

from their appearance, they had not been inhabited for some time. I

entered one of them through a small arched opening of about twenty inches

or two feet high, and found three or four nets, made with thin strips of

cane, about five feet long, with an opening of about eight inches in

diameter at one end, getting gradually smaller for about four feet, where

there was a small opening into a large round sort of basket. These nets

were laid by the natives in narrow channels to catch fish, as well as in

the tracks of small animals, such as rats and bandicoots, for the purpose

of trapping them. There were also some pieces of glass bottle in the hut,

carefully wrapped in bark and placed in a very neat basket, made in the

shape of a lady's reticule. The glass is used by the natives in marking

themselves: all of them being scarred on the arms and breast, while some

were marked on the cheeks and forehead.

In the camp we thus discovered were small stone ovens, similar to those

we had found in the camp at Rockingham Bay, as well as one with a large

flat stone raised six or eight inches from the ground, and a fireplace of

loose stones beneath. Near to one of the tents was a large stone hollowed

out in the middle, and two or three round pebbles for pounding dried

seeds, etc.

October 7 and 8.

Flat sandy ground, with occasional patches of scrub, composed of bushy

Melaleucas, Hibiscus, Banksia, and several rambling plants, with a few

large palms scattered in places; there was not much grass, except at

intervals.

October 9.

This morning we came to a river, running into Princess Charlotte's Bay,

in latitude 14 degrees 30 minutes South, longitude 143 degrees 56

minutes. It was deep, and about 100 yards wide, the water salt, and the

tide was flowing up fast, and the banks were high. A few scattered

mangroves, and a leguminous tree, with rough cordate leaves, and large

one or two-seeded legumes, were growing on the banks. We were obliged to

turn southerly for a short distance, and found what we had fancied to be

a river to be only a small creek. We crossed it about twelve or fourteen

miles from the sea, but the water was brackish. The trees on the sandy

ground were broad-leafed Melaleucas, Grevilleas, and nondas, and by the

waterholes which we occasionally saw, were Stravadiums and drooping

Melaleucas. I also saw a species of Stravadium with racemes of white

flowers, much longer than the others, with leaves ten inches long by four

inches broad, and the trees thirty feet high. Keeping at a distance from

the sea-coast to avoid the saltwater creeks, and to obtain good grass for

our horses, we halted in the middle of the day, and were visited by a

great many natives, coming in all directions, and making a great noise.

They appeared to have been collecting nondas, as a great many of their

women were carrying large basketfuls away. After the women were out of

sight they made signs to us to go away. We got our horses together, and

endeavoured to make them friendly, but our entreaties were disregarded,

and the presents we offered them were treated with contempt. When we

found they would not allow us to come near them, we packed our horses and

prepared to start. They followed us at some distance, continually

throwing spears after us for some time; one was thrown into the thigh of

a horse, but fortunately not being barbed it was taken out, and the horse

was not much injured. We then rode after them in two or three directions

and fired at them, and they left us, and we saw no more of them.

October 11.

To-day, when halting in a place where there was no water, but good grass,

a tribe of natives made their appearance, and appeared disposed to be

friendly. We carefully collected our horses, and shortly after the

natives drew near to us. We made them presents of a few fish-hooks and

tin plates, and made signs to them that we wanted water. Several of them

ran off, and in a few minutes returned with water in a vessel (if it may

be so called) composed of pieces of bark tied together at each end, and

they continued going backwards and forwards until they had brought enough

to fill our cans, besides what we drank. They left us quite quietly.

October 12.

We proceeded along the creek by which we had encamped the night before;

the water was brackish. We attempted to go through some mangroves to the

beach, but did not succeed.

October 13.

Jackey, Taylor, and myself took three horses, and tried to get to the

beach more to the northward than yesterday. We passed through a belt of

mangroves, where the ground was pretty firm, the tide coming up only

occasionally; we then proceeded along a sandy ridge to the northward,

when we found it succeeded by a saltwater lagoon, surrounded by

salsolaceous plants and mangroves, which it was impossible to get

through. We returned to our camp, and here Mr. Kennedy abandoned the

thought of going to the beach, as he felt sure H.M.S. Bramble (which was

to have met us at the beginning of August) would have gone; our journey

having occupied so much longer time than we could have possibly

anticipated. This consideration, combined with the great difficulty which

seemed likely to ensue in obtaining water and feed for our horses,

determined him to take a different direction.

October 15.

We had prayers as usual this day, being Sunday, at 11 o'clock; today we

finished the consumption of all our sugar, except a very small quantity,

which was reserved for any particular case of sickness.

October 16.

This morning a horse fell into a rocky waterhole, and finding it

impossible to get him out alive, we killed him, and cured the flesh as

before, drying it in the sun on a stage; the blood, heart, and liver

furnished us with a good day's food. Our meat being well dried by five

o'clock in the afternoon, we sprinkled some salt upon it, and put it in

bags for the convenience of carrying. We left one of our round tents, and

such other things as we could possibly spare behind us at the camp, as

our horses were now so weak they could not carry their loads.

October 17 and 18.

Our travelling was very uneven, our horses giving us continual trouble

from their frequent falls; we had a few narrow belts of scrub to cut

through, but they were not very thick.

October 19.

Several of our horses were now quite unable to carry anything but the

saddle; we passed through open forest land, with a light soil, sub-soil

clay, with isolated blocks of granite rock scattered about. We encamped

by a rocky creek, with water in holes only; it ran westerly, and had

fresh green feed on each side, the grass having been burned shortly

before, and now growing up again.

October 20.

We passed over a piece of stiff ground about two miles in extent, which

appeared to have been the scene of a devastating hurricane. It was

covered with fallen timber, which rendered it very difficult to cross.

The wind must have swept from the south-west to the north-east, and from

the appearance of the saplings which were growing from the stumps of some

of the trees which had been broken, this terrific storm appeared to have

taken place about two years ago. Not a tree had been left standing in the

part where we crossed, nor could we tell how far the devastation had

extended to the south-west; but the ground to the north and east being

swampy, and covered only with small Melaleucas and Banksias, the wind had

not taken much effect. Many of the trees in the middle of the fallen

timber measured two feet in diameter. Some were torn up by the roots, and

the trunks of others were snapped off at various heights from the ground.

The latitude of our camp here was 13 degrees 35 minutes South.

October 21.

We killed another of our horses to-day, as he was too weak to stand.

October 22.

We got our meat well dried to-day, and having smoked it a little, packed

it as before. Our stock of flour was now reduced to two hundred pounds

weight, and many of the men growing very weak, we were obliged to

increase our weekly ration a little. Three of the party, Douglas, Taylor,

and Costigan, were suffering from diarrhoea, in consequence of having

eaten too freely of the pandanus fruit. Their spirits began to fail them,

and they frequently complained despairingly to Mr. Kennedy that they

should never be able to reach Cape York. Although our horses were so very

weak, these men were obliged to ride, being quite unable to walk far at a

time. The country before us was very mountainous, but between the hills

we found plenty of grass and water: to the south the whole country

appeared to be on fire.

October 23 to 25.

We travelled during these days over a rocky mountainous country,

interspersed with deep gullies and creeks, fringed with belts of scrub.

In these scrubs I saw the white-apple and the crimson scitamineous plant

seen near Rockingham Bay; scattered over the country were a few cedar

trees and Moreton Bay chestnuts, and some very fine timber trees

belonging to the natural order Myrtaceae, upwards of sixty feet high, and

three to four feet in diameter, with fine straight trunks.

October 26 to 28.

We travelled over stony hills, the tops of which were occasionally

composed of white flint (?), with rusty veins running through it. On the

sides of the hills were broken rocks containing mica, hornblende, and

crystals of quartz. The grass on these hills had all been newly burned.

October 29.

Sunday; prayers at eleven o'clock. We this day shot three small

wallabies, which were a great treat to us.

October 30.

This day Luff was taken very lame, being seized with severe pain and

stiffness in the right leg; he was quite unable to walk, so we burned the

other two round tents to enable him to ride.

November 1 and 2.

We again had to kill a horse which was too weak, and disposed of it as we

had our former ones.

November 3.

We were cutting through scrub all day, intersected by deep gullies and

rocky hills; we crossed a small river, with very uneven rocky bottom,

about three feet deep; where we crossed it, it was running southerly, and

as there had been a heavy storm a few days previously, the current was

rapid; five of our horses fell in crossing it--the one carrying my

specimens in a very bad place; we were obliged to cut the girths, and

before I could secure his load two bags of seeds were washed away; we

tied our horses to trees, and encamped in a thick bamboo scrub by the

side of the river.

November 4.

This morning Jackey went to examine a scrub through which we wanted to

pass, and while out, shot a fine cassowary; it was very dark and heavy,

not so long on the leg as the common emu, and had a larger body, shorter

neck, with a large red, stiff, horny comb on its head; Mr. Wall skinned

it, but from the many difficulties with which he had to contend, the skin

was spoiled before it could be properly preserved.

November 5.

We travelled a short distance to the top of a hill, from which Jackey had

seen grass from a tree. We were obliged to kill another horse to-day, and

cured the flesh as usual.

November 6.

We were compelled to shoot two other horses to day, and as we had no

other means of taking the meat with us, we skinned one of them, and made

the skin into bags, in which we each carried a few pounds of meat on our

backs.

November 7 and 8.

We were travelling these two days over very rough rocky ground,

intersected with gullies and belts of scrub.

November 9.

We were obliged this morning to start without our breakfast, having no

bread baked, and being unable to find water. We followed the course of a

creek at the foot of a low range of hills running northward, the range

being to the westward. In the evening we found water in the creek.

November 10.

We proceeded along the valley of the creek, which was very uneven, and

full of small hillocks. Near the spot where we camped a great number of

Pandanus trees were growing. On each side of the creek there were a few

scattered trees and a thick scrub to the westward. The soil was stiff,

with plenty of grass in the valley.

Mr. Kennedy, here, finding from the weak state of some of the men, that

it would be impossible for us to reach Cape York before our provisions

were exhausted, resolved to form an advance party, consisting of himself,

Jackey, Costigan, Luff, and Dunn.

We had but nine horses left, of which number it was proposed that they

should take seven, and proceed to Cape York as quickly as possible, to

obtain provisions for the rest of the party from the vessel waiting with

supplies for our homeward journey.

November 11.

We proceeded along the valley a short distance, with the view of forming

our depot as near to Weymouth Bay as possible. We crossed the creek where

it turned eastward, on a kind of bank, which intercepted its course, up

to which, from the east, the tide came sometimes, so that on that side

the creek the water was brackish, but very good water was obtainable on

the other side the bank.

After we had camped, we killed our last sheep, and Mr. Kennedy proceeded

to the top of a high hill to view the country over which he would have to

pass. Shortly after his return to the camp several natives made their

appearance, to whom we made a present of a tin plate and a few

fish-hooks, which made them quite friendly. While they were looking at

us, a great many brown hawks came hovering over the camp. Wall and Jackey

shot fourteen or fifteen of them, in the presence of the natives, who

retired to the edge of the scrub, and seemed very much surprised to see

the hawks fall as soon as they heard the report of the guns. They went

into the scrub at dark, but a good watch was kept all night; though the

natives did not again make their appearance. One of our dogs killed a

young dog belonging to the natives during the night, which I afterwards

ascertained was eaten by Dunn, Luff, Costigan, and Goddard.

November 12.

Sunday: prayers at eleven; Jackey and I went to the beach to see if we

could find any salt, as our stock was getting very low, but we could not

succeed in finding any.

November 13.

This morning everything was prepared for the departure of Mr. Kennedy and

his party, and the last of our mutton was served out equally to each of

the party.

Mr. Kennedy gave me written instructions how to act during our stay at

Weymouth Bay, it being his intention to send for us by water, if

possible, as he expected to meet H.M.S. Bramble at Port Albany. He

calculated that he should be from ten to fifteen days before he reached

that place, and directed me to keep a sharp lookout from the hill for a

vessel; and should I see one, to hoist a flag on the hill. If the natives

were friendly I was to put a ball beneath the flag, and above it should

they be hostile. In the evening I was to fire three rockets, at intervals

of about twenty minutes.

The party left at the depot under my charge were eight in number. The

provisions consisted of two horses and twenty-eight pounds of flour, the

former being very poor and weak.

Not knowing whether he could send for us by water or not, Mr. Kennedy

directed me to make my provisions last at least six weeks, saying that it

was possible I might get relief fourteen days after his departure, and to

keep a very sharp lookout after that time.

I packed up all the dried meat we had left (75 pounds) and 18 pounds of

flour for Mr. Kennedy to take with him, and about one pound of tea was

divided between the two parties. These, with their firearms, and a few

necessaries of a light description, were all the party took with them.

Mr. Kennedy requested me to register the height of the thermometer during

my stay at the Bay. The whole of the party left at the camp were very

weak, Luff being the weakest man that proceeded with the party to Cape

York.

Before leaving Mr. Kennedy told me that he expected to meet with some

difficulties for the first few days, from the nature of the country he

had seen from the hill. I did not mention this to the rest of the party,

for fear it might still further tend to depress their spirits, as three

or four of them even now seemed to despair of ever reaching our

destination. I did all in my power to keep them in good heart, but they

were saddened and depressed from long suffering.

We removed our camp back across the creek to the side of the high bare

hill on which I was to hoist a flag, and from which I could look out for

a vessel. It also afforded us a security from the natives, as we could

see them at a greater distance. The latitude of this camp was 12 degrees

35 minutes South.

And thus we settled down in the spot which was to be the burial place of

so many of our party--which was fated to be the scene of so much intense

suffering, and of such heart-sickening hope deferred. Wearied out by long

endurance of trials that would have tried the courage and shaken the

fortitude of the strongest, a sort of sluggish indifference prevailed,

that prevented the development of those active energies which were so

necessary to support us in our critical position. The duties of our camp

were performed as if by habit, and knowing how utterly useless complaint

must be, the men seldom repined aloud.

November 14.

We killed the smallest horse early this morning, and had all the meat cut

up and on the stage to dry by nine o'clock. I made the blood, heart,

liver, kidneys, and tripe last us three days, as they would not keep

longer, and we mixed our allowance of flour with them. We had no salt to

season them with, as all our salt was required to put in the blood to

prevent it turning sour. The heat during this day was very great, the

thermometer at noon in the shade standing at 110 degrees. Douglas was

very weak. The natives came this afternoon, but did not stay long.

November 16.

The natives this day brought us a few small pieces of fish, but they were

old and hardly eatable. I would not allow them to come near the camp, but

made signs to them to sit down at a distance, and when they had done so I

went to them and distributed a few fish-hooks. Douglas died this morning,

and we buried him at dusk when the natives were gone, and I read the

funeral service over him. He was the first of our party we had lost, and

his death, the sad precursor of so many more, cast an additional gloom

over us.

November 18.

The natives came and brought some of their gins (women) with them. They

would only allow one of us at a time to go near them. The women wore very

neatly fringed girdles hanging loose about their loins, and shaded

themselves with large fan-palm leaves. The girdles were made of the

leaves of the Cordyline. Both men and women were very stout, strong,

well-made people--some of the men standing six feet high. They brought us

some fish, which they called mingii, but it was such as they would not

even eat themselves; also a kind of paste, made of different kinds of

leaves and roots, mixed with the inside of the roasted mangrove seeds,

all pounded up together, then heated over a fire in a large shell. This

paste they call dakiaa.* Although we did not much like the taste of the

paste, and it was very full of sand, we ate some of it as a vegetable.

(*Footnote. This is identical with the biyu of Cape York. See Volume 2.)

November 19.

This morning about fifty or sixty natives, all strongly armed with

spears, made their appearance, and by their gestures and manner it was

quite evident they intended to attack us if opportunity offered. As we

always kept our firearms in readiness, we stood out in a line, with our

guns in our hands. I made signs to them to keep back, but they pretended

not to understand us, holding up pieces of fish, crying out mingii,

mingii (fish, fish) to induce us to come for them, but their designs upon

us were too transparent for that. They kept us standing a good while, for

I was anxious to refrain from firing on them if possible, and at length

they left us without any actually hostile demonstration. Being Sunday, I

read prayers to-day.

November 20.

Taylor died this morning, and we buried him in the evening, by the side

of Douglas, and I read the funeral service over him.

November 21.

About sixty natives came to the camp this morning, well armed with

spears, and pieces of fish, which they held up to us, to entice us to

come to them. We took no notice, however, of their invitations, but

preparing our firearms, we turned out. They were now closing round us in

all directions, many of them with their spears in their throwing-sticks,

ready for use--pointing them to their own necks and sides, and showing us

by their postures how we should writhe with pain when they struck us.

Then they would change their tactics and again endeavour to persuade us

that they meant us no harm, but they would not lay down their spears.

Some of them seemed inclined to go away, but others appeared determined

to attack us. After keeping us standing about an hour, eleven spears were

thrown at us. Three of my party then fired, slightly wounding one of

them, when they all immediately ran away as fast as they could. Some of

them, however, remained hovering in sight for some time after. Three of

the spears that were thrown fell short of us, the rest passing very

close, but fortunately no one was hurt; the three spears which passed us

were barbed with bone, and were very heavy.

November 26.

Carpenter died this morning; the poor fellow did not suffer acutely on

the approach of death, but the animal energies were destroyed, and they

withered away one after another, without pain or struggle. At eleven

o'clock, being Sunday, I read prayers, and in the evening we buried our

late companion in the bed of the creek, and I read the funeral service

over him. The natives came again this morning, leaving their spears at a

distance, and brought us a few small fish; but remembering their former

treachery, we took very little notice of them and showed them they could

only expect kind treatment from us, so long as they themselves continued

peaceable. During the last few days we shot a few pigeons and parrots,

also a small blue heron.

November 27.

We killed another horse this morning, and had the meat all cut up and on

the stage by nine o'clock, with all the appearance of a fine day to dry

it. But about eleven o'clock a heavy thunderstorm came on, and it rained

all day. I kept a fire burning near the stage all night.

November 28.

We were very uneasy at the continued wet weather, as it threatened to

destroy the scanty remains of our provision, the flesh already beginning

to smell very badly.

November 29.

It was raining heavily all day, and our meat became almost putrid.

November 30.

This day a fresh breeze blew, and there was no rain; I cut up all the

meat that would hold together into thin slices, but a great deal of it

was quite rotten. The blood-puddings, tripe, feet, and bones, lasted us

till this day. I saved the hide of this horse for ourselves, the other I

had fed our dogs on; Mr. Kennedy having requested me to keep them alive

if possible, so that we had to spare a little from our scanty meals for

them.

December 1.

The wind was blowing strong from the south-east this morning. On going up

the hill in the afternoon I saw a schooner from the northward beating to

the southward. I supposed her to be the Bramble, as it was about the time

Mr. Kennedy had given me expectation of being relieved by water, and I

afterwards found I was right in this supposition.

I naturally concluded she had come for us; and full of hope and joy I

immediately hoisted a flag on a staff we had previously erected, on a

part of the hill where it could be seen from any part of the bay. We

placed a ball above the flag to put the crew on their guard against the

natives. We then collected a quantity of wood, and at dusk lighted a

fire, and kept it burning till about half-past seven or eight o'clock. I

then fired off three rockets one after the other, at intervals of about

twenty minutes. I also took a large pistol up the hill, and stood for

some time firing it as quickly as I could load it, thinking they might

perhaps see the flash of that, if they had not seen the rockets.

December 2.

Early this morning I was up, straining my eyes to catch a view of the

bay, and at length saw the schooner standing in to the shore; and during

the forenoon a boat was lowered. I now made quite certain they were

coming for us, and thinking they might come up the creek in the boat for

some distance, I hastened down the hill, and began to pack up a few

things, determined to keep them waiting for our luggage no longer than I

could help. I looked anxiously for them all the afternoon, wondering much

at their delay in coming, until at last I went up the hill, just in time

to see the schooner passing the bay. I cannot describe the feeling of

despair and desolation which I in common with the rest of our party

experienced as we gazed on the vessel as she fast faded from our view. On

the very brink of starvation and death--death in the lone wilderness,

peopled only with the savage denizens of the forest, who even then were

thirsting for our blood--hope, sure and certain hope, had for one brief

moment gladdened our hearts with the consoling assurance, that after our

many trials, and protracted sufferings, we were again about to find

comfort and safety. But the bright expectancy faded; and although we

strove to persuade ourselves that the vessel was not the Bramble, our

hearts sank within us in deep despondency.

December 4.

We yesterday finished our scanty remnant of flour; and our little store

of meat, which we had been able to dry, could have but very little

nourishment in it. Goddard and I went to the beach and got a bag of

shellfish, but found it very difficult to get back to the camp through

the mangroves, we were in so weak a state.

December 7.

This day I took Mitchell with me to the beach, and procured another bag

of shellfish. During the last few days we shot a very small wallaby and

three or four Torres Strait pigeons. These afforded us some relief, as

our horse-flesh was so very bitter, that nothing but unendurable hunger

could have induced us to eat it. A number of small brown beetles were

generated from it, which ate it, and we were also much annoyed by flies.

We all suffered more or less from bad eyes.

December 9.

The natives visited us this morning, and brought with them a few pieces

of turtles' entrails and a few nondas. I gave them an old shirt and a

knife, the latter of which was highly prized by them. They call turtle

mallii, and the sun youmboll. Goddard had a fit of ague to-day, followed

by fever.

December 10.

We all of us had fits of ague this morning, and none of us could get up

till the afternoon, when, being Sunday, I read prayers.

December 11.

The natives came this morning, and brought us a little vegetable paste,

and some pieces of turtles' entrails, with some sharks' liver. The latter

was fresh, but one could not eat it, as it all melted into a yellowish

oil, when boiled for a few minutes. I gave them a few fish-hooks, but

found it very difficult to get them to leave the camp.

December 13.

This morning Mitchell was found dead by the side of the creek, with his

feet in the water. He must have gone down at night to get water, but too

much exhausted to perform his task, had sat down and died there. None of

us being strong enough to dig a grave for him, we sewed the body in a

blanket, with a few stones to sink it, and then put it into the brackish

water.

December 15.

The thermometer fell this morning and was broken. It was raining heavily

all day, and two bags of my seeds, and several other little things, were

washed out of the tent by the water which ran down the hill. We were all

very ill and weak.

December 16.

It was raining this morning, and we remained in the tent. Hearing one of

our dogs barking, however, I went out and saw several natives with pieces

of fish and turtle, which I took from them, when they left us. The

natives also brought us some roasted nymphaea roots, which they call

dillii. During the last few days we shot seven pigeons. Wall and Goddard

used to go into the scrub and sit beneath a tree, to which they used to

come for berries to feed their young, and watching their opportunity,

shoot them.

December 21.

Our kangaroo dog being very weak, and unable to catch anything, we

killed, and lived on him for two days. There was very little flesh on his

bones, but our dried meat was so bad, that we very much enjoyed the

remains of our old companion, and drank the water in which we boiled him.

December 24.

The natives took a tin case from Wall whilst he was talking to them, he

not being able to resist them. My legs had swelled very much, and I was

able to walk but a very short distance.

December 26.

The natives brought us a few pieces of fish and turtle, but both were

almost rotten; they also gave us a blue-tongued lizard, which I opened

and took out eleven young ones, which we roasted and ate. There was

nothing but scales on the old one, except in its tail.

We always equally divided whatever we got from the natives, be it what it

might; but they brought us very little that was eatable. I could easily

perceive that their pretended good feeling towards us was assumed for the

sake of fulfilling their own designs upon us. Although they tried to make

us believe they were doing all in their power to benefit us, their object

was to obtain an opportunity of coming upon us by surprise and destroying

us. They had at many times seen the fatal effects of our firearms, and I

believe that it was only the dread of these, that prevented them from

falling upon us at once, and murdering us. They were a much finer race of

men than the natives we had seen at Rockingham Bay, most of the men being

from five feet ten to six feet high. The general characteristics of the

race were different from those of the other aborigines I had ever seen,

and I imagined that they might be an admixture of the Australian tribes

and the Malays, or Murray Islanders. Some of them had large bushy

whiskers, with no hair on their chins or upper lips, having the

appearance of being regularly shaved. It would be almost impossible for

any class of men to excel these fellows in the scheming and versatile

cunning with which they strove to disguise their meditated treachery. In

fine weather I always had our firearms standing out for them to see, and

once or twice every night I fired off a pistol, to let them know we were

on the lookout by night as well as by day.

December 28.

Niblett and Wall both died this morning; Niblett was quite dead when I

got up, and Wall, though alive, was unable to speak; they were neither of

them up the day previous. I had been talking with them both, endeavouring

to encourage them to hope on to the last, but sickness, privation, and

fatigue had overcome them, and they abandoned themselves to a calm and

listless despair. We had got two pigeons the day before, which in the

evening were boiled and divided between us, as well as the water they

were boiled in. Niblett had eaten his pigeon, and drank the water, but

Wall had only drank the water and eaten part of his half pigeon. About

eleven o'clock, as many as fifty natives, armed with spears, and some of

them painted with a yellowish earth, made their appearance in the

vicinity of our camp. There were natives of several strange tribes

amongst them. They were well aware that neither Niblett nor Wall was able

to resist them, if they did not know they were dead. They also knew that

we were very weak, although I always endeavoured as much as possible to

keep that fact from them. This morning when I made signs to them to lay

down their spears they paid no attention, with the exception of two, who

had been in the habit of coming very frequently to the camp. These two

came running up quite close to us, without their spears, and endeavoured

to persuade one of us to go across a small dry creek, for a fish which

another of the rascals was holding up to tempt us. They tried various

methods to draw our attention from the rest, who were trailing their

spears along the ground, with their feet, closing gradually round us, and

running from tree to tree, to hide their spears behind them. Others lay

on their backs on the long grass, and were working their way towards us,

unnoticed, as they supposed. Goddard and myself stood with our guns in

readiness and our pistols by our sides for about two hours, when I fell

from excessive weakness. When I got up we thought it best to send them

away at once, or stand our chance of being speared in the attempt, both

of us being unable to stand any longer. We presented our guns at the two

by our side, making signs to them to send the others away, or we would

shoot them immediately. This they did, and they ran off in all directions

without a spear being thrown or a shot fired. We had many times tried to

catch fish in the creek during our stay at Weymouth Bay, with our fishing

lines, but never could get as much as a bite at the bait.

As the evening came on, there came with it the painful task of removing

the bodies of our unfortunate companions who had died in the morning. We

had not strength to make the smallest hole in the ground as a grave; but

after great exertion we succeeded in removing the bodies to a small patch

of phyllanthus scrub, about four feet high, and eighty yards from the

tent. We then laid them side by side, and covered them with a few small

branches, and this was all the burial we were enabled to give them.

December 29.

Goddard went into the scrub, and shot three pigeons. We ate one of them

at night, and the others we reserved till next day. Our bowels were

greatly relaxed, which was partly stayed by eating a few nondas, which we

got occasionally.

The six weeks having expired, which Mr. Kennedy had led me to expect

would be the longest period we should have to wait, I now began to fear

the rainy season had set in, and filled the creeks to the northward, so

that his party had been unable to cross them, or that some untoward

accident had happened, which prevented us being relieved.

I did not quite despair, but I knew that we could not live long. Our shot

was almost consumed, not having more than eight or ten charges left, and

although we had plenty of ball, we were too weak to attempt to form any

plan to make shot. Our sole remaining companion, the sheepdog, I intended

to kill in a day or two, but he would not last long, as he was nothing

but skin and bone.

December 30.

Early this morning we ate the two pigeons left yesterday, and boiled each

a quart of tea, from the leaves we had left; but we had not had any fresh

tea to put into the pot for some time. Goddard then went into the bush,

to try to get another pigeon or two, and if the natives made their

appearance, I was to fire a pistol to recall him to the camp. After he

had been gone, I saw natives coming toward the camp, and I immediately

fired a pistol; but before Goddard could return they came into the camp,

and handed me a piece of paper, very much dirtied and torn. I was sure,

from the first, by their manner, that there was a vessel in the Bay. The

paper was a note to me from Captain Dobson, of the schooner Ariel, but it

was so dirtied and torn that I could only read part of it.

For a minute or two I was almost senseless with the joy which the hope of

our deliverance inspired. I made the natives a few presents, and gave

them a note to Captain Dobson, which I made them easily understand I

wanted them to take to that gentleman. I was in hopes they would then

have gone, but I soon found they had other intentions. A great many

natives were coming from all quarters well armed with spears. I had given

a shirt to the one who had brought the note, and put it on him; but I saw

him throw down the note and pull off the shirt, and picking up his spear

he joined the rest, who were preparing to attack us. We were expecting

every moment to be attacked and murdered by these savages, our newly

awakened hope already beginning to fail, when we saw Captain Dobson and

Dr. Vallack, accompanied by Jackey and a man named Barrett (who had been

wounded a few days before in the arm by a barbed spear) approaching

towards us, across the creek. I and my companion, who was preserved with

me, must ever be grateful for the prompt courage with which these

persons, at the risk of their own lives, came to our assistance, through

the scrub and mangroves, a distance of about three miles, surrounded as

they were all the way by a large number of armed natives.

I was reduced almost to a skeleton. The elbow bone of my right arm was

through the skin, as also the bone of my right hip. My legs also were

swollen to an enormous size. Goddard walked to the boat, but I could not

do so without the assistance of Captain Dobson and Dr. Vallack, and I had

to be carried altogether a part of the distance. The others, Jackey and

Barrett, kept a lookout for the blacks. We were unable to bring many

things from the camp. The principal were, the firearms and one parcel of

my seeds, which I had managed to keep dry, containing eighty-seven

species. All my specimens were left behind, which I regretted very much:

for though much injured, the collection contained specimens of very

beautiful trees, shrubs, and orchideae. I could also only secure an

abstract of my journal, except that portion of it from 13th November to

30th December, which I have in full. My original journal, with a

botanical work which had been kindly lent me by a friend in Sydney for

the expedition, was left behind. We got safely on board the Ariel; and

after a very long passage, arrived in Sydney.

I am confident that no man could have done more for the safety of the

party than was done by Mr. Kennedy, nor could any man have exerted

himself more than he, in the most distressing circumstances of our

perilous journey. He walked by far the greater part of the distance,

giving his own horses for the use of the weak men, and the general

service of the expedition. I never rode but two hours all through the

journey, and that was on two successive days when we were in the vicinity

of Cape Sidmouth, and I was suffering from bad feet.

The unfortunate death of our brave and generous leader, deeply and

extensively as I know it to have been lamented, can have no more sincere

mourner than myself.

The tale of his sufferings and those of his party has already been read

and sympathised over by hundreds, and it would ill become me to add

anything to the artless narrative of the faithful and true-hearted

Jackey, who having tended his last moments, and closed his eyes, was the

first, perhaps the most disinterested, bewailer of his unhappy fate.

...

STATEMENT OF JACKEY-JACKEY.

MADE BY HIM ON BOARD THE ARIEL, AND WRITTEN DOWN BY DR. VALLACK.

I started with Mr. Kennedy from Weymouth Bay for Cape York, on the 13th

November, 1848, accompanied by Costigan, Dunn, and Luff, leaving eight

men at the camp, at Weymouth Bay. We went on till we came to a river

which empties itself into Weymouth Bay. A little further north we crossed

the river; next morning a lot of natives camped on the other side of the

river. Mr. Kennedy and the rest of us went on a very high hill and came

to a flat on the other side and camped there; I went on a good way next

day; a horse fell down a creek; the flour we took with us lasted three

days; we had much trouble in getting the horse out of the creek; we went

on, and came out, and camped on the ridges; we had no water. Next morning

went on and Luff was taken ill with a very bad knee; we left him behind,

and Dunn went back again and brought him on; Luff was riding a horse

named Fiddler; then we went on and camped at a little creek; the flour

being out this day we commenced eating horse-flesh, which Carron gave us

when we left Weymouth Bay; as we went on we came on a small river, and

saw no blacks there; as we proceeded we gathered nondas, and lived upon

them and the meat; we stopped at a little creek and it came on raining,

and Costigan shot himself; in putting his saddle under the tarpaulin, a

string caught the trigger and the ball went in under the right arm and

came out at his back under the shoulder; we went on this morning all of

us, and stopped at another creek in the evening, and the next morning we

killed a horse named Browney, smoked him that night and went on next day,

taking as much of the horse as we could with us, and went on about a mile

and then turned back again to where we killed the horse, because Costigan

was very bad and in much pain; we went back again because there was no

water; then Mr. Kennedy and I had dinner there, and went on in the

afternoon leaving Dunn, Costigan, and Luff at the creek. This was at

Pudding-pan Hill, near Shelburne Bay. Mr. Kennedy called it Pudding-pan

Hill. We left some horse-meat with the three men at Pudding-pan Hill, and

carried some with us on a packhorse. Mr. Kennedy wanted to make great

haste when he left this place, to get the doctor to go down to the men

that were ill. This was about three weeks after leaving Weymouth Bay. One

horse was left with the three men at Pudding-pan Hill, and we (Kennedy

and myself) took with us three horses. The three men were to remain there

until Mr. Kennedy and myself had gone to and returned from Cape York for

them. Mr. Kennedy told Luff and Dunn when he left them that if Costigan

died to come along the beach till they saw the ship, and then to fire a

gun; he told them he would not be long away, so it was not likely they

would move from there for some time. They stopped to take care of the man

that was shot, we (me and Mr. Kennedy) killed a horse for them before we

came away; having left these three men, we camped that night where there

was no water; next morning Mr. Kennedy and me went on with the four

horses, two packhorses and two saddle-horses; one horse got bogged in a

swamp. We tried to get him out all day, but could not, we left him there,

and camped at another creek. The next day Mr. Kennedy and I went on

again, and passed up a ridge very scrubby, and had to turn back again,

and went along gulleys to get clear of the creek and scrub. Now it

rained, and we camped; there were plenty of blacks here, but we did not

see them, but plenty of fresh tracks, and camps, and smoke. Next morning

we went on and camped at another creek, and on the following morning we

continued going on, and camped in the evening close to a scrub; it rained

in the night. Next day we went on in the scrub, but could not get

through, I cut and cleared away, and it was near sundown before we got

through the scrub--there we camped. It was heavy rain next morning, and

we went on in the rain, then I changed horses and rode a black colt, to

spell the other, and rode him all day, and in the afternoon we got on

clear ground, and the horse fell down, me and all; the horse lay upon my

right hip. Here Mr. Kennedy got off his horse and moved my horse from my

thigh; we stopped there that night, and could not get the horse up; we

looked to him in the morning and he was dead; we left him there; we had

some horse-meat left to eat, and went on that day and crossed a little

river and camped. The next day we went a good way; Mr. Kennedy told me to

go up a tree to see a sandy hill somewhere; I went up a tree, and saw a

sandy hill a little way down from Port Albany. That day we camped near a

swamp; it was a very rainy day. The next morning we went on, and Mr.

Kennedy told me we should get round to Port Albany in a day; we travelled

on all day till twelve o'clock (noon) and then we saw Port Albany; then

he said "There is Port Albany, Jackey--a ship is there--you see that

island there," pointing to Albany Island; this was when we were at the

mouth of Escape River; we stopped there a little while; all the meat was

gone; I tried to get some fish but could not; we went on in the afternoon

half a mile along the riverside, and met a good lot of blacks, and we

camped; the blacks all cried out "powad, powad," and rubbed their

bellies; and we thought they were friendly, and Mr. Kennedy gave them

fish-hooks all round; every one asked me if I had anything to give away,

and I said no; and Mr. Kennedy said, give them your knife, Jackey; this

fellow on board was the man I gave the knife to; I am sure of it; I know

him well; the black that was shot in the canoe was the most active in

urging all the others on to spear Mr. Kennedy; I gave the man on board my

knife; we went on this day, and I looked behind, and they were getting up

their spears, and ran all round the camp which we had left; I told Mr.

Kennedy that very likely those blackfellows would follow us, and he said,

"No, Jackey, those blacks are very friendly;" I said to him "I know those

blackfellows well, they too much speak;" we went on some two or three

miles and camped; I and Mr. Kennedy watched them that night, taking it in

turns every hour all night; by-and-by I saw the blackfellows; it was a

moonlight night; and I walked up to Mr. Kennedy, and said to him there is

plenty of blackfellows now; this was in the middle of the night; Mr.

Kennedy told me to get my gun ready; the blacks did not know where we

slept, as we did not make a fire; we both sat up all night; after this,

daylight came, and I fetched the horses and saddled them; then we went on

a good way up the river, and then we sat down a little while, and we saw

three blackfellows coming along our track, and they saw us, and one

fellow ran back as hard as he could run, and fetched up plenty more, like

a flock of sheep almost; I told Mr. Kennedy to put the saddles on the two

horses and go on, and the blacks came up, and they followed us all the

day; all along it was raining, and I now told him to leave the horses and

come on without them, that the horses made too much track. Mr. Kennedy

was too weak, and would not leave the horses. We went on this day till

towards evening, raining hard, and the blacks followed us all the day,

some behind, some planted before; in fact, blacks all around following

us. Now we went on into a little bit of a scrub, and I told Mr. Kennedy

to look behind always; sometimes he would do so, and sometimes he would

not look behind to look out for the blacks. Then a good many blackfellows

came behind in the scrub, and threw plenty of spears, and hit Mr. Kennedy

in the back first. Mr. Kennedy said to me, "Oh! Jackey, Jackey! shoot

'em, shoot 'em." Then I pulled out my gun and fired, and hit one fellow

all over the face with buckshot; he tumbled down, and got up again and

again and wheeled right round, and two blackfellows picked him up and

carried him away. They went away then a little way, and came back again,

throwing spears all around, more than they did before; very large spears.

I pulled out the spear at once from Mr. Kennedy's back, and cut out the

jag with Mr. Kennedy's knife; then Mr. Kennedy got his gun and snapped,

but the gun would not go off. The blacks sneaked all along by the trees,

and speared Mr. Kennedy again in the right leg, above the knee a little,

and I got speared over the eye, and the blacks were now throwing their

spears all ways, never giving over, and shortly again speared Mr. Kennedy

in the right side; there were large jags to the spears, and I cut them

out and put them into my pocket. At the same time we got speared, the

horses got speared too, and jumped and bucked all about, and got into the

swamp. I now told Mr. Kennedy to sit down, while I looked after the

saddlebags, which I did; and when I came back again, I saw blacks along

with Mr. Kennedy; I then asked him if he saw the blacks with him, he was

stupid with the spear wounds, and said "No;" then I asked him where was

his watch? I saw the blacks taking away watch and hat as I was returning

to Mr. Kennedy; then I carried Mr. Kennedy into the scrub, he said,

"Don't carry me a good way;" then Mr. Kennedy looked this way, very bad

(Jackey rolling his eyes). I said to him, "Don't look far away," as I

thought he would be frightened; I asked him often, "Are you well now?"

and he said, "I don't care for the spear wound in my leg, Jackey, but for

the other two spear wounds in my side and back," and said, "I am bad

inside, Jackey." I told him blackfellow always die when he got spear in

there (the back); he said, "I am out of wind, Jackey;" I asked him, "Mr.

Kennedy; are you going to leave me?" and he said, "Yes, my boy, I am

going to leave you;" he said, "I am very bad, Jackey; you take the books,

Jackey, to the captain, but not the big ones, the Governor will give

anything for them;" I then tied up the papers; he then said, "Jackey,

give me paper and I will write;" I gave him paper and pencil, and he

tried to write, and he then fell back and died, and I caught him as he

fell back and held him, and I then turned round myself and cried: I was

crying a good while until I got well; that was about an hour, and then I

buried him; I digged up the ground with a tomahawk, and covered him over

with logs, then grass, and my shirt and trousers; that night I left him

near dark; I would go through the scrub, and the blacks threw spears at

me, a good many, and I went back again into the scrub; then I went down

the creek which runs into Escape River, and I walked along the water in

the creek very easy, with my head only above water, to avoid the blacks,

and get out of their way; in this way I went half a mile; then I got out

of the creek, and got clear of them, and walked on all night nearly, and

slept in the bush without a fire; I went on next morning, and felt very

bad, and I spelled for two days; I lived upon nothing but salt water;

next day I went on and camped one mile away from where I left, and ate

one of the pandanus fruits; next morning I went on two miles, and sat

down there, and I wanted to spell a little there, and go on; but when I

tried to get up, I could not, but fell down again very tired and cramped,

and I spelled here two days; then I went on again one mile, and got

nothing to eat but one nonda; and I went on that day and camped, and on

again next morning, about half a mile, and sat down where there was good

water, and remained all day. On the following morning, I went a good way,

went round a great swamp and mangroves, and got a good way by sundown;

the next morning I went and saw a very large track of blackfellows; I

went clear of the track and of swamp or sandy ground; then I came to a

very large river, and a large lagoon; plenty of alligators in the lagoon,

about ten miles from Port Albany. I now got into the ridges by sundown,

and went up a tree and saw Albany Island; then next morning at four

o'clock, I went on as hard as I could go all the way down, over fine

clear ground, fine ironbark timber, and plenty of good grass; I went on

round the point (this was towards Cape York, north of Albany Island) and

went on and followed a creek down, and went on top of the hill and saw

Cape York; I knew it was Cape York, because the sand did not go on

further; I sat down then a good while; I said to myself, this is Port

Albany, I believe inside somewhere; Mr. Kennedy also told me that the

ship was inside, close up to the mainland; I went on a little way, and

saw the ship and boat; I met close up here two black gins and a good many

piccanninies; one said to me "powad, powad;" then I asked her for eggs,

she gave me turtles' eggs, and I gave her a burning-glass; she pointed to

the ship which I had seen before; I was very frightened of seeing the

black men all along here; and when I was on the rock cooeying, and murry

murry glad when the boat came for me.

...

DR. VALLACK'S STATEMENT.

A full account of proceedings taken by the Ariel, from the time of

Jackey's arrival at Cape York, on the 23rd December, 1848, up to the time

of her departure from Weymouth Bay, on the 31st December, 1848.

Saturday, 23rd December, 1848.

About eight o'clock A.M., Captain Dobson called down to me, saying that

he thought Mr. Kennedy was arrived, as there was a black on shore with a

shirt on and trousers. On going upon deck, the Captain had left in the

dinghy for the mainland, where the black was standing, I observed with

the glass and the naked eye, the black first standing, then walking very

lame, then sitting down on a rock on the mainland. The dinghy made there,

and took him on board. It turned out to be Jackey, of Mr. Kennedy's

party, who looked very haggard and told a woeful tale. After being on

board I wished to take down depositions, fearing anything might happen to

him from over-excitement. Depositions were taken, before which he became

faint, and a glass of wine revived him, which he told us afterwards, made

him budgeree (that is, well again.) I consulted with the Captain as to

what should be done, and it was immediately determined upon to leave Port

Albany with all possible speed, to save the surviving parties at

Pudding-pan Hill and Weymouth Bay, three men at the former place, and the

rest at the latter. It being necessary to take the sheep with us, they

were all but three shipped in the evening, and prompt orders given for

the vessel to be got ready for a start in the morning the first thing. In

the meantime I went on shore with the Captain to get the bullock in to

kill, Barrett, as well, on horseback, and we found it was impossible to

get him in--he was so wild: he was therefore shot at the far and south

end of the island, with the intention of bringing as much as possible of

the carcass away. It getting late in the evening, however, none was taken

away, nor is there time now to do so, and to do also an act of duty and

humanity to the yet living human beings.

Sunday, 24th December.

Before ten A.M., a dead calm; at turn of tide or rather before, weighed

anchor, but the tide took us towards Cape York a mile; the tide now

turned, and a gentle breeze took us through the strait. The breeze

continued, and at sundown we anchored five miles south of Point Shadwell,

Mount Adolphus bearing North-North-West, seven leagues; employed during

the day conversing with Jackey, taking down in pencil what he had to say,

changing the subject now and then by speaking of his comrades at Jerry's

Plains. I did so as he told me what kept him awake all last night was

thinking about Mr. Kennedy. Saw three native fires on our voyage here,

one on this south end of Albany Island, one between it and here, and one

on shore abreast of us.

December 25th, Monday.

At daylight in the morning a dead calm, and the hottest day we have had,

the sun was so glaring that the altitude could not be taken. At about a

quarter before ten A.M. a light breeze came on and we left our anchorage,

the breeze increased a little, before eleven; saw what appeared to be an

island at first; on nearing, found it to be a canoe, about fifteen feet

long, with seven or eight natives in it, shearing about, sometimes in one

direction, sometimes in another. After a little we heard them calling

out, "paoud," "whappee," "chauca," some of them standing up. I named to

the Captain that I thought they must be from Cape York, from their words,

and that it would be at least desirable to glean information from them,

if possible, concerning Mr. Kennedy. The Captain said, "We will not call

out paoud," (which means peace) but occasionally the words chauca

(tobacco) biskey (biscuit) were called out from the ship. They from this

drew close to the vessel, very wary, however, in doing so. Jackey was

placed in the fore-top, and word came that Jackey knew all these fellows,

that they were the party who speared Mr. Kennedy. One black was allowed

to come on board, and whilst he was partly in the ship, word came to me

by Parker (a seaman) that Jackey wanted to speak to me. On going to

Jackey, he said, "That fellow," pointing to the one named, "is the fellow

that speared Mr. Kennedy; I gave him a knife, keep him, bale (don't) let

him go. All those fellows threw spears at Mr. Kennedy." This native was

immediately secured. He struggled hard, and it was as much as three men

could do to secure him. The other blacks in the canoe now jumped

overboard, and observing now that the native secured had a part of a

bridle round his arm, and a piece of sinew, or tendon of a horse, and

Jackey being so positive as to identity, it was determined to examine the

canoe, and an order was given to fire over their heads, whilst they (the

blacks) were endeavouring to recover their canoe. The ship's long-boat

was sent after the canoe, but in the meantime the blacks had recovered

it, and a hard chase took place, the blacks paddling away towards the

shore. The boat overhauled them, when a shot was fired from the boat, and

as the boat closed upon them I saw the blacks jump overboard again, and

afterwards the ship's boat bring back the canoe. During this time several

shots were fired over them, and near them, from the ship. The boat

returned in about twenty minutes from the time of leaving, with the

canoe. Barrett said to me when alongside that he was speared, and that he

had shot the black who had speared him, and who was now in the canoe

nearly dead. It appears that one black had stuck to his canoe, and on the

ship's boat nearing it, had thrown a spear into Barret's arm, and was on

the eve of throwing another at him, when Barrett shot him. I went into

the canoe, and examined the black, and found the ball had gone through

his body, entering on the one side and coming out on the other side. The

ball must have gone through the stomach, from its direction. He was now

dying--nearly dead. The canoe was chopped up, and, with the black,

disappeared a short time afterwards. I dressed Barrett's wounds, three of

them, of a triangular shape, in the lower and fleshy part of the forearm.

From the canoe were brought the leg part of a pair of trousers, three

spears, a piece of iron of a saddle, hooks and lines, etc.; and a piece

of moleskin was taken off the native's leg, which Jackey says was part of

his trousers, which he tied round Mr. Kennedy's head when he buried him,

Jackey being sure that they had dug up Mr. Kennedy. I observed at the

time that the native was nearly on board, the moment the blacks saw

Jackey, they looked at each other as if everything was not right.

Previously to their jumping overboard, when Jackey showed the native the

spear wound over his eye, he would quickly turn away and not look him in

the face. Whilst the native was being secured, after being removed to the

fore part of the vessel, a mutton bone with meat was offered him which he

grappled at and ate voraciously, saying, "paoud, paoud." The wind

increased and was fair, and Jackey pointed out a hill ahead of us which

he said was like Pudding-pan Hill, near which the three men were left.

This Hill was Pudding-pan Hill, according to the chart. As we neared

Pudding-pan Hill, Jackey said, that is not the place, that he had been

mistaken, and, on continually looking at it, he became the more confirmed

and positive, and said it was no use whatever to land there, but that we

must go further on; we passed the hill; in the meantime, the Captain and

I consulted as to what should be done, knowing this was the only

Pudding-pan Hill on the chart; but Jackey, who had been placed on the

fore-top, became more and more positive, saying at length, "Do you think

I am stupid?--Mr. Kennedy sent me from the camp to look out the coast, so

that I might know it again when I came back in the ship, and I will tell

you when we come to it, the ship must go on that way further," pointing

to the south. Proceeding on, towards evening, off Hannibal Bay, we saw

numerous native fires, and in one spot I observed about forty natives.

Before sundown a canoe was making off to us, but after sunset we

gradually lost sight of it, and some time after this we anchored.

Tuesday, 26th December, 1848.

At twenty minutes to six A.M., got underweigh with a light breeze; in the

centre of Hannibal Bay, Risk Point ahead. In about ten minutes we struck

on a coral reef, and soon got off again; we anchored this day in

Shelburne Bay, opposite where Jackey wished us to proceed to recover the

three men; he was sure this was the place, seeing the mountain which Mr.

Kennedy called Pudding-pan Hill, and other mountains there, which were

wanting at the Pudding-pan Hill of the chart; he was perfectly confident

as to this being the right place and it may be here stated that this hill

is the very facsimile of the Pudding-pan Hill of the chart. In sailing in

the bay we found the water getting very shallow, from three to four, and

lastly, when we anchored, two and a half fathoms, and this unfortunately,

was a long way off from the land, say three or four miles; after

consultation with the Captain and Jackey, our main guide, we determined

on going on shore at the place pointed out by Jackey before daylight on

the following morning; during this afternoon several fires, about five,

were in sight along the coast in the bay, and not many natives seen; I

saw five; after a time it had been determined who should be the party to

go to recover the three men. The Captain, Jackey, Barrett, Thomas (the

sailor), and myself, formed the party. The evening was employed in

getting our guns in good order for the morrow. The Captain thought he

observed on shore natives with wearing apparel on.

Wednesday, 27th December, 1848.

At three o'clock A.M., the Captain called me, and such had been the

preparation last night that in a quarter of an hour we were in the

longboat, steering for the shore, and just as daylight was peeping we

were near the shore in shallow water, and a fire sprung up nearly in

front of us a little way in from the beach. The boat struck on the

ground, and we waded through the water for about a hundred yards or more

knee deep. Jackey took the lead, the Captain and I following, Barrett and

Tom behind, and mounted the low scrubby cliff about two hundred yards

from where we saw the fire. On we trudged through dense scrub inland for

about an hour, When Jackey said we must go further up that way, pointing

more in the south part of the bay; that is where I want to go, said he,

and that we had better cross there in the boat and recommence the trip.

On reaching the coast we hailed the boat, which was anchored off a

little, and waded out to it. Having seen a great smoke last evening and

apparently one this morning, some distance beyond where Jackey wished us

to land, he was asked if we should go first to this native fire and camp,

and see if they have anything there belonging to the three men, and

Jackey said, yes. We proceeded there, a distance of about four miles to

the southernmost part of the bay, and landed, but could discover only the

remains of a bushfire and no camp; we now left this part and proceeded to

exactly where Jackey pointed out on the beach, more in the central part

of the bay, some three miles across, and landed, telling the men in the

boat to anchor a little higher up to the north, where Jackey said we

should come out at by-and-bye. We left word with the men in the boat that

we might be away for three hours or more, and that we should fire a gun

on our return, which was to be answered by them.

Jackey was now head and leading man in every sense of the word, and away

we went in a westerly direction, for about, say, five or six miles;

Jackey telling us to look out behind and all about for the blacks. After

proceeding some four miles of the distance, we came to a creek where we

stopped for a few minutes; Jackey was evidently tired, not recovered, and

could not walk fast, and although we went off at first at a good pace,

Jackey was getting lame, and had been obliged to sit down three times on

the journey. About two miles beyond this creek Jackey got up into a tree,

and returned saying he could see the mountain near which the camp was,

but that it was a long way off, that we could not get there to-night, but

that we must camp in the bush, and get there to-morrow. It here became

necessary to pause. The ship was left with two hands only in her,

anchored in shallow water, and the Captain said promptly that he could

not proceed farther without great risk of losing the ship, either from

its coming on to blow, or that natives may attack her in their canoes;

(here I may say what has been omitted, namely, that in the early part of

the morning we saw and examined a canoe close to where we first landed,

and found part of a cloak in it, which Jackey immediately pronounced as

belonging to the white men at the camp) and it was determined, well

considering all circumstances, to return to the ship, which we did,

coming out on the beach under mangroves, at the very spot we told Jackey

to come out at on our leaving. We arrived at the ship at twelve minutes

before four P.M. During our absence the men in the boat had seen on the

beach from fifty to one hundred natives. We saw none. The day has been

very hot, and we are in a fix, surrounded by reefs, and some little

anxiety is existing as to how we shall get out again. We have determined

to proceed to Weymouth Bay, and in so doing I have taken everything into

consideration. We have eight men to attend to at Weymouth Bay. In all

probability the three men here are dead, for when Jackey left them,

Costigan was nearly dead, and Luff was very ill. The cloak taken from the

canoe shows that the blacks have found their camp, and had we gone on

there, which would have taken a day or two at least more, we should only

have found, I verily believe, as Jackey says, "bones belonging to

whitefellows." After getting on board, Jackey went to sleep, thoroughly

done up. He fell asleep also in coming off in the boat.

Thursday, December 28.

This has been a day of anxiety. We left a little after daylight, not

without feelings of disappointment and dissatisfaction at not having been

successful in rescuing the men, who it was possible might be yet alive.

We were surrounded by reefs, a light breeze, and fair depth of

water--called out by the leadsman, 2, 2 1/2, 2, 3 fathoms, until after

some time we got into deeper water, and passed out of the Bay in safety.

Not a fire had been seen on the shore all night, nor was there a native

to be seen this morning from the vessel. We passed numerous islands,

until the Piper Islands came in sight. We calculated upon making them for

our anchorage, but a squall came on, and the wind shifted, and we were

compelled to anchor at half-past seven P.M., in fifteen fathoms water,

near a reef. Some native fires were seen on the coast to-day. I find the

native on board understands and speaks the same language as the Port

Albany blacks, and repeats all their names to me. He eats and drinks

heartily, and lends apparently a most willing hand towards securing

himself with the leather straps.

Friday, 29th December.

Left our anchorage at daylight in the morning; passed between the Piper

Islands and Bald Head. When off Fair Cape saw a smoke on the shore, and

three natives, who immediately disappeared in the scrub and were seen no

more. On rounding the Cape it became a dead calm, and it was intensely

hot; we saw a smoke and a large fire ahead of us. Jackey recognised the

land and said the smoke was at the mouth of a river which Mr. Kennedy and

he had crossed after leaving the camp. The land where the camp and eight

men were Jackey pointed out ahead of us, opposite to Weymouth Bay; a

heavy squall and thunderstorm with rain came on very suddenly, and beyond

the mouth of the river, with the camping-hill ahead of us, we came to an

anchor, between two and three o'clock P.M.; could not see any flagstaff

on the hill pointed out by Jackey, and which hill is very conspicuous and

bald, nor could we see any symptom of living beings along the coast in

the bay. It was too great a distance to land to-night, and the Captain

said if it came on to blow the boat could not be got back again. Employed

the other part of the day in looking through the glass and with the naked

eye to see the flagstaff and flag, or any other sign (Jackey having

informed us they would have a flag on the top of the hill) but none was

to be seen, not a native, and I have reason to believe every one of the

eight have been sacrificed; it looks suspicious not seeing a native, for

Jackey says they used to bring fish to the camp, and there were plenty of

them. The Captain is to take the ship in as near as possible to the hill,

and it is determined to go on shore with the same party who assisted us

at Shelburne Bay, and go up to the camp to-morrow well armed. All this

evening a solemn, silent, inexpressible gloom; no rockets, no gun, no

fire, to-morrow will tell a tale.

Saturday, 30th December, 1848.

At daylight this morning the ship was got underweigh, and sailed nearer

in towards the hill which Jackey had pointed out as being the hill where

"camp sit down," and anchored in about two fathoms of water about half a

mile off the land. Five canoes were now seen creeping off towards us from

under the mangroves, with from five to ten natives in each (there was yet

no flag or any token of white people on the hill); the canoes gradually

neared in a string, and one came cautiously alongside, making signs and

saying "ferraman, ferraman," "white man, white man," and pointing towards

Jackey's mountain. We were at first doubtful whether they were disposed

to be friendly or not, and afterwards seeing some children with them and

one or two females, we concluded they were disposed to be friendly, and

that they knew the parties at the camp. A few lines were written to the

party at the camp, stating a vessel was in the bay, and the bearer, one

of the natives, would take them to it. This was given to one of the

natives in the first canoe, and Jackey, whom the natives recognised,

beckoned and motioned to them to take the note to the camp. In the

meantime the Captain and I had determined as soon as the boat could be

got ready, to proceed according to Jackey's instructions to the camp. The

boat left with our party, and Jackey directed us some distance off in the

wake of the canoes, there being nothing but a mangrove swamp on the shore

near us. We landed beside of a creek knee-deep in water, among some

mangroves. Here we got out of the boat, Jackey, the Captain, Barrett, and

myself, Tom, the sailor, who had accompanied us before, saying he could

not go, that he had a bad leg. We were a little disappointed here, but

said nothing, and proceeded, Jackey leading, myself, the Captain, and

Barrett following, through a mangrove swamp, for some considerable

distance, all well armed. Getting out of the swamp we came upon a

beautiful flat, and followed up a creek which Jackey said would lead up

to the camp. After getting on (keeping a good lookout) for about two

miles, Jackey doubled his pace, and all at once said with great emphasis,

"I see camp." "Well done, Jackey," I think was exclaimed by all of us at

the same moment. Jackey, still going on at a sharp pace, stopped for a

moment and said, "I not sure, I believe it is hole through tree," and

suddenly, with greater excitement than before, he exclaimed, "See two

whitefellows sit down, and camp." We were now on one side of the creek:

down the creek we went, and up on the other side in double-quick time,

and a scene presented itself. On the side of the hill, not two hundred

yards from us, were two men sitting down, looking towards us, the tent

and fire immediately behind them; and on coming up to them, two of the

most pitiable creatures imaginable were sitting down. One had sufficient

strength to get up; the other appeared to be like a man in the very last

stage of consumption. Alas! alas! they were the only two left of the

eight, the remainder having died from starvation. Whilst here we were

considering what was best to be done, when natives in great numbers were

descried watching our movements. Jackey said, "Doctor," calling me aside,

"now I tell you exactly what to do, you see those blackfellows over

there" (and in pointing to them I saw a great number, some eight hundred

yards away, peeping from behind trees) "you leave him tent, everything,

altogether there, and get the two whitefellows down to the boat quick."

Jackey was exceedingly energetic, and grave as well. Get away as quick as

possible, was resounded by all, but what was to be done--two men almost

dead to walk two or three miles. We looked over the tent, asked Carron

for what important things there were, and each laid hold of what appeared

to be of most value, the Captain taking two sextants, other parties

firearms, etc., etc. "Come along," again and again Jackey called out, and

the Captain too, whilst they were halfway down towards the creek, and

Barrett and I loaded ourselves. I took a case of seeds, some papers of

Carron's, a double gun and pistol, which, together with my own double gun

and brace of pistols, thermometer, and my pockets full of powder and

shot, was as much as I could manage. Seeing Carron could not get along, I

told him to put his hands on my shoulders, and in this way he managed to

walk down, as far as nearly through the mangrove swamp, towards the

water's edge, when he could not in that way possibly get any further, and

Barrett, with his disabled arm, carried him down to the edge of the

water. Goddard, the other survivor, was just able to walk down, spoke,

and looked exceedingly feeble. They were brought on board at noon, and

attended to according to my instructions. Carron's legs were dreadfully

swollen, about three times their natural size, from oedema. In the

afternoon both reviving and thanking God for their deliverance. I was for

some time afraid of Carron. At ten P.M.--they are both doing well, and, I

trust, will be enabled to tell their own tale, which renders it

unnecessary for me to write it down here. I told the Captain to proceed

direct on to Sydney. Jackey, Carron, and Goddard, and the Captain,

stating it would be running too great a risk to go to recover anything

from the tent, moreover, with so small a party as the Captain, Jackey,

and myself (Barrett really being unfit to go) and the sailors all

refusing to go. I consider the Captain deserves considerable credit for

his actions throughout in exerting himself to rescue the survivors.

Sunday, December 31.

At daylight got underweigh and took our departure from Weymouth Bay for

Sydney. Carron and Goddard were some considerable time in getting better;

the former being subject to daily fits of ague, etc., etc.

Thursday, January 11, 1849.

The black native had made his escape during the night, whilst it was

raining and blowing hard; we were at this time anchored about one and a

half or two miles from Turtle Reef, and a distance of eight miles from

Cape Bedford, the nearest part of the mainland; made search on the reef,

but saw no marks of him; a strong current was making towards Cape

Bedford, and he might have taken that direction. Two large sharks were

seen about the ship this morning; it is our impression the man can never

have reached the land; the black was seen by Parker, on deck, at two

A.M., whilst it was thundering, lightning, and raining, but was never

seen afterwards.

...

EXTRACT

From the private log of T. BECKFORD SIMPSON, master of the brig Freak,*

giving an account of her proceedings when employed in searching for the

papers, etc., connected with the late Mr. Kennedy's exploring party.

(*Footnote. Under contract with the Colonial Government to call (on her

way to Port Essington) at Shelburne Bay and Escape River, to ascertain,

if possible, the fate of the three men left at the former place, and

recover the papers of Mr. Kennedy secreted by Jackey-Jackey, who went in

the Freak to point out the localities.)

Wednesday, May 2, 1849.

In the night fresh breezes from North-East with rain; at daylight weighed

and made sail, the Harbinger in company; shaped a course to pass between

Cape Direction and the low sandy island which lies off it; passed close

to the latter; I observed the reef extending from the North-East end

further than laid down on the chart; after passing it, and giving Cape

Direction a good berth, shaped a course for Restoration Island. At 9 A.M.

dense masses of rain-clouds to the east and north-east. The weather

became thick and rainy, shortened sail to the topsails. At 10.30 A.M.,

the weather clearing a little, saw Restoration and Cape Weymouth; when

close to the former we had heavy squalls with rain, which prevented our

seeing the land; hove-to with the vessel's head to the North-East;

shortly after the weather clearing a little so as to enable us to see the

land, bore up and stood in for Weymouth Bay. The rain now descended in

torrents, lowered topsails on the cap, feeling our way cautiously with

the lead; finding the water shoaling, anchored in twelve fathoms; at 0.30

P.M., the weather clearing a little, saw Restoration, bearing

South-South-East 1/2 East, and a small island distant about a mile west.

At 3.30 P.M. fine, and finding we were a long distance out, weighed and

ran in under the jib, the Harbinger following our example; as we

approached the bottom of the bay the water shoaled gradually, and when

the haze lifted Jackey pointed out the hill at the foot of which was the

camp where Mr. Kennedy had left eight of the party, and from whence

Carron and Goddard had been rescued. We stood into five fathoms, and at 5

P.M. anchored about 1 1/2 miles from the shore; the Harbinger brought up

close to us. Made up my mind to visit the camp in the morning, and

endeavour to find if there were any papers which might have been left and

not destroyed.

Thursday, May 3.

During the night moderate breeze from the south with light showers. At

five A.M., Captain Sampson came alongside, he wishing to join our party,

and visit the camp. Having well manned and armed the large whaleboat,

pulled on shore, and landed at the entrance of a small river, on a little

sand patch, the place having been pointed out by Jackey; it was the only

clear landing-place I saw. A dense mangrove swamp extended some distance

beyond high-water mark. We had no sooner landed than the rain fell in

torrents, and continued for three hours, so much so that we could not

load our guns. It was about high-water when we landed, and in the

mangrove scrub through which we had to go, the water was nearly up to our

waists. We had, therefore, no alternative but to remain patiently until

the tide fell, and the rain ceased.

On searching the place where we landed, part of a blanket was found,

marked B (arrow pointing up) O, a part of a tarpaulin, a piece of canvas,

apparently a portion of a tent, and a small tin dish, with a name

scratched on its back. These articles were evidently part of the pillage

from the camp. A little way up the creek we found three canoes, very

rudely made, with outriggers on both sides. We searched and found some

small pieces of iron, which we took, being also pillage from the

exploring party. At ten A.M., less rain, got some of our pieces blown off

with difficulty, they being drenched with rain.

At eleven A.M., having some of our guns in a state to be trusted, we took

to our boats and pulled a short distance up the creek in order to avoid

in some measure the crossing of the mangrove swamp. We started, Jackey

taking the lead, leaving a party to look after the boats. We walked for a

short distance in the mangrove swamp, and came out on an open spot where

we found a native camp, which from appearances had been but recently

abandoned, the ashes of the fire being still warm: we made a strict

search, but found nothing; we proceeded, passed through a small belt of

mangroves, and came on an open plain; here Jackey and Tommy being the

leading men, saw five natives, about fifty yards from us, planted behind

trees, each had a bundle of spears, they were evidently watching us,

Jackey levelled his gun at the nearest, and off they ran and disappeared

immediately; Jackey seemed very desirous to shoot them, but I told him

not to fire, as I wished to speak to them.

From the recent heavy rain the plain was very nearly knee-deep with

water, nearly the whole distance we travelled the water was over our

ankles, making walking very fatiguing. After crossing the plain we came

to a band of trees and bushes, among them I was surprised to find some

very fine banana plants; I observed also a fine specimen of the red cedar

(the only tree I had hitherto seen was the Melaleuca) here we crossed a

small creek, and came on fine forest land. After proceeding some

distance, Jackey pointed out the place where the party first camped, and

where Mr. Kennedy left the eight men; they subsequently removed to the

opposite side of the creek; near this place on a tree was carved in large

letters K. LXXX., which I suppose meant the eightieth station. On coming

to the creek found it running too strong for us to ford it; went along by

its side a short distance, and were fortunate to find a tree extending

across it, upon which we got over; found the grass as high as our

shoulders, crossed a small gully and ascended a slight acclivity, which

brought us to the site of the camp; a bare spot of ground indicated the

exact locality; this spot was strewed with portions of books, all of a

religious or scientific character; found no manuscripts; parts of

harness, leather belts, pieces of cedar boxes in leather covers were also

found; one or two tins for carrying water, a camp stool, and part of a

table, and piece of a tent pole, the bones, skulls, and part of the

feathers of birds, etc.; specimens of natural history, all destroyed. I

observed the bones of a horse, and the skull of a dog; a piece of torn

calico with a portion of a chart adhering to it was picked up; I thought

I could make out the words River Mitchell on it. I found among the pieces

of books, a portion of Leichhardt's journey overland.

I was some time before I could find the remains of Wall and Niblet, who

were the last men that died, and had not been buried, the survivors being

too weak. I placed myself at the camp, and looked about for the likeliest

place to which a corpse would be taken under the circumstances. I went

down into a small gully, about sixty yards from the camp; under some

small bushes, in about two feet of water, I found their bones, two skulls

and some of the larger bones, the smaller ones having most probably been

washed away by the flood; the bones were all carefully collected and

taken on board. From the position in which these bones were found,

agreeing with the description given me by Mr. Carron, I feel confident

they are the remains of Wall and Niblet.

I was rather surprised to find some cabbage-palm trees growing in the

vicinity of the camp; the tops are very nutritious, and would be very

desirable for men in a starving state, had they been aware of it. I

picked up part of a key belonging to a chronometer. After having a good

look round, we returned to the boats, all tired, from our drenching and

wading through so much mud and water, and we unfortunately had no

provisions of any kind, and had eaten nothing all day. When we pulled to

the entrance of the river it was low-water, and there was a bank dry

outside of us for upwards of half a mile; we had no alternative but to

wait until the tide flowed. At half past three P.M., got on board,

hoisted the boat in, and prepared to start in the morning.

Friday, May 4.

At daylight, weighed, with a light breeze from the southward; steered to

give Fair Cape a berth. I observed the entrance of a large river at the

north end of Weymouth Bay. At half-past ten A.M., passed Piper's Islands,

and steered for Young Island; could not make it out for some time, when

we did see it, found it only a small reef above water, not worthy the

name of an island; such a misnomer is likely to mislead; hauled up for

the reef M. At noon, abreast of Haggerstone Island, steered to give Sir

Everard Home's Isles a berth; saw natives on Cape Grenville; hauled in

for Sunday Island; the wind light from the eastward; passed Thorpe Point,

and hauled in for Round Point. At five P.M., anchored in six fathoms,

mud. Bearings at anchor, North Sand Hill, D (conical hill) South-East 1/2

East; South Wind Hillock (a saddle hill) South 3/4 East; the remarkable

sand patch, South-West 1/2 West; Jackey's Pudding-pan Hill, West 1/4

North. Got the whaleboat and crew ready to start at daylight for

Shelburne Bay.

On consulting Jackey about going to the camp where the three men were

left, he said it was no use going there; the distance was great, and the

country scrubby, and that he was sure if any of the men were alive, they

would be on the seacoast. Dunn, one of the men, told him, if Costigan

died, he should come down to the beach directly. I therefore considered

all that we could do would be to thoroughly examine the coast with the

whaleboat, close in shore, and the brig as near as she prudently could

approach.

At daylight despatched the whaleboat, in charge of the second officer,

with four seamen, Jackey, and his two companions, with particular orders

to keep close to the beach, and to land occasionally, to examine all the

native camping places and canoes; to make strict search for anything that

might tend to point out the fate of the unfortunate men. At 6.30 A.M.

weighed, with a light breeze from the southward, and steered to pass

between the Bird and Macarthur Islands; at noon abreast of the latter;

P.M., after passing Hannibal Isles, hauled in for the shore, for the

purpose of picking up the whaleboat. At 5.30 P.M., having shoaled our

water rather suddenly to 3 1/2 fathoms, hard bottom, anchored about a

mile off shore. Saw a canoe and a few natives on the beach. Bearings at

anchor--Risk Point, South 1/2 East; the centre of the Hannibal Isles,

South-East by East 1/2 East. At eight P.M. the boat returned. The second

officer made the following Report:

I kept close along the beach all day, landed three times; first, near the

creek where the Ariel's boat landed, saw no indication there of

Europeans. I landed again some distance further on, where I saw a native

camp and a canoe. In the latter I found a leather pistol holster, marked

34, which Jackey recognised as belonging to the party. Three natives were

seen by Jackey, who, on perceiving the boat, ran into the bush. At the

third place I landed I saw no indication of men. I was close to the beach

all along, and occasionally fired a musket.

Jackey appears confident that the men left have been killed by the

blacks. He said he had hopes of finding Dunn, he being a man that "knew

blackfellow well, and used to go along blackfellow."

Sunday, May 6th, 1849.

At daylight sent the boat on shore, manned as before, with instructions

to land at the place where I saw natives last night. At 6.30 A.M.,

weighed and set the topsail to a light breeze from the southward, steered

North by East 1/2 East, hauling out a little from the land. At seven

heard a rumbling noise, looked over the vessel's side and saw we were in

shoal water, the vessel gradually losing her way, but still continued

forging ahead a little; lowered the boat and sounded round, found more

water ahead, thirteen and fourteen feet; inshore, about half a cable's

length found five and six fathoms; to seaward, eleven and eleven and a

half feet. Set the foresail: having a flowing tide the vessel went ahead

and deepened our water; after going ahead about two or three ship's

lengths touched again slightly, and immediately after got into five and

six fathoms. The sea being smooth at the time, and the after part of the

keel being the only part of the vessel that touched, she cannot have

received any material damage. This shoal appeared to be of small extent,

composed of sand and coral; it is not laid down in the chart, but is very

dangerous, not being visible from the masthead. I went aloft after

crossing it, and could perceive no indication of shoal water. The

bearings I got when on the shoal were, the outer or larger Hannibal

Island, South-East 1/2 East, the inner one (only a solitary tree visible)

South by East 1/2 East.

At eleven A.M. passed Cairncross Island, running under easy sail and

keeping as near the shore as prudent to keep the boat in sight. I have

given instructions to the officers in charge to make a signal if anything

was discovered. At half-past four hauled in for Fern Island; at five

anchored under the lee in three fathoms, mud; bearings, the highest part

of Fern Island South by East, the entrance to Escape River, North-West by

West 1/2 West, hoisted the recall for the boat, on the return of which

the officer reported as follows:

I ran along close to the shore all day. I landed a little to the

southward of Orfordness. We met about thirty natives on the beach, who

came up to us without hesitation, and appeared very friendly; they shook

hands with all of us, and brought us water. Jackey at first thought he

recognised the native who escaped from the Ariel among them; he got a

little excited, and wanted to shoot him, when he approached nearer he was

satisfied he was not the same individual. At another place where I landed

I found part of the lower mast of a vessel about 400 tons, and pieces of

wreck; saw no natives or indication of them on the beach.

The schooner remained at anchor, and from the fact of her doing so, I

came to the conclusion it could be no other vessel than the Coquette;*

seeing her so far from her station, I imagined there was something wrong,

or that she had heard the unfortunate termination of the expedition, and

was preparing to leave; I determined to communicate with her before

proceeding up Escape River; at half-past eight A.M., saw four natives on

the beach.

(*Footnote. Which had been sent from Sydney to await the arrival of

Kennedy's Expedition at Port Albany, the period for which the Ariel had

been chartered for that purpose having expired.)

Narrative of the Voyage of H.M.S. Rattlesnake, Commanded By the Late Captain Owen Stanley, R.N., F.R.S. Etc. During the Years 1846-1850. — Volume 2 Including Discoveries and Surveys in New Guinea, the Louisiade Archipelago, Etc. to Which Is Added the Account of Mr. E.B. Kennedy's Expedition for the Exploration of the Cape York Peninsula. By John Macgillivray, F.R.G.S. Naturalist to the Expedition. · 第 7 / 9 章

During the whole of these three days we travelled over undulating open