Pack my stones and bones collected between here and Holy Cross, and
after lunch go to Russian Mission. Meet Mr. Cris Betsch, the trader,
and find him both friendly and anxious to help. Teacher and her mother
invite me to supper. Before that Mr. Betsch calls in a number of the
older men, and we have a talk about ancient things, but they know
nothing worth while beyond a few score of years at most; they give me,
however, some data and names of old villages.
A few years ago some human bones and skulls were dug up here and
reburied. Eskimo readily agree to help us find them and to let me
take them. Moreover, they are quite eager to dig up an old medicine
man supposed to be buried under a good-sized (for this country) blue
spruce. They get shovels, soon find some of the old bones and a damaged
skull, and later on, with the help of information given by an elderly
woman, uncover also a female skull. Uncover further the end of two
birch-bark-covered coffins, from Russian time, and would readily dig
them out did I not restrain them; as also with the medicine man. We
shall probably get some such specimens from this locality later, so
there is no need of disturbing the burials.
Mrs. Barrick, the teacher, gives us a "civilized" supper, at which I
am introduced for the first time to a great and fine Yukon specialty,
namely, smoked raw strips of king salmon, and find them excellent. Then
a good talk with all, after which pack specimens--still somewhat damp,
but it would be difficult to wait--deliver to the post, and am sent to
my place around the hill at a little past 10 p. m. with an invitation
by Mr. Betsch to go to-morrow to "the slough of the 32 kashims (council
or communal house)," about 10 miles down the river. But I have already
been promised by Gurtler to take me down to this place, and so I can
not accept. Just now I need sleep.
July 7. After breakfast examine banks and beach along Gurtler's place
and find two stone implements, two pieces of decorated pottery, and a
bone of some animal. Wash, dry, and pack, then a cup of coffee--the
Gurtler's have a habit of drinking a second cup at about 10 a. m. each
day--and then, after some of the seemingly inevitable trouble with
motor, start down the river. It rained yesterday; the clouds show low
pressure; it is not warm and the water is somewhat rough.
Stop a bit at the mission to give Mrs. Barrick a fish and get a bag
or two from Mr. Betsch, and then proceed. From the river the Russian
Mission settlement is seen to be very favorably situated at the foot
of the southern slope of a big hill. But the recency of the flat below
and in front of the church and schoolhouse is clearly seen again. The
site about where the church and school are may--in fact must, it is so
favored--be a very old one, and doubtless a thorough excavation of the
slope from the back of the houses upward would be both easy and very
instructive. The place should by all means receive attention.
Reach and examine the "32 kashim slough," a beautiful side channel
about 7 miles long; reach about 1½ miles from its entrance, examine
banks and pass through jungle, find tracks of foxes and of a bear,
also see one big beautiful red fox trotting ahead of us on the other
beach--but not a trace of man. Examine also the "mounds" on Grand
Island, but find them to be only dunes.
Lunch on the beach; remarkably few mosquitoes and no gnats; smoked raw
salmon strips again, and coffee; and at 5 leave for home, it being
impossible so late to go down to the end of the channel.
On return all going nicely until 5. Then, in a slough 3½ miles from the
Russian Mission, after an examination of another likely site, breakdown
of the motor. Do everything possible to make it go until about 8, but
in vain. Then I take the crazy little rowboat that luckily we took with
us, bail out the water with our shovel, and row to the mission for
help. Get there about 9, send back a launch with some natives, have a
little supper with the teacher, and row home around the hill, reaching
Gurtler's near 11. In a few minutes the launch is towed in and all is
well once more. Mr. Betsch got for us two good native "kantágs" or
wooden dishes. Also we fix to go down to the "32 kashims" to-morrow
once more with Mr. Betsch and the teacher.
July 8. Up a little after 6; breakfast; and then comes in a native from
the mission with two letters and information that the _Agnes_, the
little mail-carrier boat, has arrived during the night and is waiting
for me to take me to Marshall and to Old Hamilton, whence another
boat will take me in a day or two to St. Michael. So get ready in a
minute, put my baggage on a native's boat, pay my bill, leave another
lot of good friends, and row to the mission. There is the little
dinghy _Agnes_ with its "accommodation" for three passengers already
two-thirds filled up, and towing two big logs as a freight. Put my
things partly in a "bunk," partly on the roof, give good-byes to Betsch
and the teacher, help to push off the boat which is stuck in the mud,
and we are off for another Yukon chapter.
We pass by the lower end of the "32 kashim" slough--no sign of any
site--all recently made flats. If there is anything left of the old
sites it must be at the foot of the hills, or has been covered with
silt. The site is so favorable that in all probability there was once
there a good-sized settlement, but due to river action and the jungle
it could not be located. Mr. Betsch visited the place that day, and
again with some old natives on another occasion, without being more
fortunate.
Cloudy, slightly drizzly day, no trace of sun, mists over the tops of
the hills. Could not stand it in the boat, so sitting on my box on the
roof of the boat, wrapped, due to the cold, in a blanket.
A little below the "32 kashim" slough a small stream enters from
inland--a place to be examined; but this boat can not stop for such a
purpose.
A half mile or so farther down a few graves and crosses, with remnants
of a native habitation.
Over 3 miles down, just beyond first bluff, fine site, with low hills
stretching far beyond it--now but a few empty, half-ruined native
houses. Should be explored.
South of second rocky bluff a live camp, and farther down another.
The left side of the river is still all flats as far as one can see,
but about 17 miles below Russian Mission human bones came out of a bank
there (on a slough).