A little town (village), on a flat promontory. An old consumptive
storekeeper--no knowledge of any old implements or skeletal remains.
Lowden village moved here due to mine opposite and better site. About
10 Indian houses here; inhabitants now mostly in fishing camps.
From Galena down, low shores and islands as on the Tanana, as far as
can be seen, with mountains, grayish blue, in far distance (and only
occasional glimpses). River never less than three-fourths of a mile and
sometimes together with its sloughs and islands several miles broad.
Some geese; occasional rabbit seen on land; otherwise but little life.
First gulls.
The Indians at Ruby and Galena show here and there an Eskimoid type,
with the younger nearly all mix bloods (with whites). Full bloods of
same type as all along the river, brachycephalic, low to moderate
high vault of head, moderate to medium (rarely above) stature, medium
brown, noses not prominent, concavo-convex, moderately convex or
nearly straight, Indian cast of the face, but quite a few more or less
Eskimoid. Not very bright.
Sit in the bottom of the scow, in front, before the stove and make
notes. When we stop, jump out to tie the boat; when leaving, push it
off. Getting sunburnt dark. Forgetting once again that I have a stomach
or any other organ. Only sleep, never fully, much less than ought to;
but even that is somehow much more bearable here than it would be at
home.
6.45 p. m. Suddenly, after a turn, confronted with a steep rocky
promontory about 500 feet high--stratified mud rocks. On side, high
above, a tall white cross; learn later an Indian murdered a bishop
here. A little farther, on a flat below the slope, a small settlement.
A remarkable landmark, known as the Bishop's Rock. Afterwards again
flats, but some more elevated than before to the left. River like a
great looking-glass. Same character of vegetation and colors as farther
above, but details varied.
At Ruby had made a genuine, effective, Alaska mosquito netting, and
so now feel quite independent of the pest; also have two bottles of
mosquito oil, which helps. Fortunately on the water we are not bothered.
Toward night reach Koyukuk River, and later on, Koyukuk village, a
pleasant row of houses, white and native, on a high bank. Here, at
last, pass one good night, sleeping under good mosquito netting in the
house and on the bed of an Italian trader. Also had good supper of
salmon, and good breakfast of bacon and eggs, and so feel rested and
strong.
Friday, June 25. But in the morning the sky is overcast and every now
and then there is a loose shower. Of course my boon companions are
not ready again until long after 9 o'clock, and then the engine will
not go again, so a longer delay. They were inclined, in fact, to "lay
over," but I urged them on. But they are determined if it rains a bit
more to "tie to" somewhere. Fortunately there is no wind. About 3 miles
below Koyukuk and its flats, the high bluffs with steep more or less
shaved-like barren slopes recommence. A gloomy day.
About 7 miles down, after a large rocky promontory, a small graveyard
on the side of a hill, with a little native camp about a third of a
mile beyond.
10.45 a. m. Beautiful wooded great hills, 400 to 800 feet high, all
along the right bank again, with large ~V~-shaped valleys between. A
fine, rounded, slightly more than usually elevated island ahead. Left
banks flat.
Sun coming out a little; cool, but not unpleasant. No more showers,
river smooth, boat making time. Blue hazy mountains far to the left
front.
Hills to right rocky, strata horizontal to warped, mud rocks, broad
banks of sandy, gravelly or mucky materials, not consolidated, between
hard strata.
Now and then a small Indian camp, usually two or three tents, Indians,
dogs, boats; some drying fish (not much).
11.00 a. m. Another isolated little graveyard, right slope, near an old
camp.
There is no possibility now of excavating any of these graveyards,
for the Indians are in unpleasant disposition toward the Government
for various reasons. But such a place as that near Burchell's could
be excavated as soon as conditions improve. Also that above Ruby
and another opposite and just below Ruby. There are no longer any
superstructures left at these (or but traces), and the graves, as seen
above Ruby, are near (within 2 feet of) the surface.
No trace or indication of anything older than the double-grooved ax
culture has thus far been seen anywhere in the valley; and large
stretches of present banks are quite barren.
As we approach Nulato the horizon before us becomes hilly and
mountainous. The sun is now fully out and its warmth is very pleasant.
Pass an Indian woman paddling a canoe; later an Indian family going
upstream in a motor boat. Most of these Indians possess a motor boat of
some sort, and know how to run it, though it is not in their nature to
be overcareful.