It is said that “fools build houses for wise men to live in.

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PICTURES

OF

SOUTHERN LIFE,

SOCIAL, POLITICAL, AND MILITARY.

WRITTEN FOR THE LONDON TIMES,

BY

WILLIAM HOWARD RUSSELL, LL. D.,

SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT.

NEW YORK:

James G. Gregory,

(SUCCESSOR TO W. A. TOWNSEND & CO.,)

46 WALKER STREET.

1861.

PICTURES OF SOUTHERN LIFE.

CHARLESTON, _April_ 30, 1861.[A]

[A] Mr. Russell wrote one letter from Charleston previous to

this, but it is occupied exclusively with a description of the

appearance of Fort Sumter after the siege. His “Pictures of Southern

Life” properly begin at the date above.

NOTHING I could say can be worth one fact which has forced itself upon

my mind in reference to the sentiments which prevail among the gentlemen

of this state. I have been among them for several days. I have visited

their plantations; I have conversed with them freely and fully, and I

have enjoyed that frank, courteous, and graceful intercourse which

constitutes an irresistible charm of their society. From all quarters

have come to my ears the echoes of the same voice; it may be feigned,

but there is no discord in the note, and it sounds in wonderful strength

and monotony all over the country. Shades of George III., of North, of

Johnson, of all who contended against the great rebellion which tore

these colonies from England, can you hear the chorus which rings through

the state of Marion, Sumter, and Pinckney, and not clap your ghostly

hands in triumph? That voice says, “If we could only get one of the

royal race of England to rule over us, we should be content.” Let there

be no misconception on this point. That sentiment, varied in a hundred

ways, has been repeated to me over and over again. There is a general

admission that the means to such an end are wanting, and that the desire

cannot be gratified. But the admiration for monarchical institutions on

the English model, for privileged classes, and for a landed aristocracy

and gentry, is undisguised and apparently genuine. With the pride of

having achieved their independence is mingled in the South Carolinians’

hearts a strange regret at the result and consequences, and many are

they who “would go back to-morrow if we could.” An intense affection for

the British connection, a love of British habits and customs, a respect

for British sentiment, law, authority, order, civilization, and

literature, pre-eminently distinguish the inhabitants of this state,

who, glorying in their descent from ancient families on the three

islands, whose fortunes they still follow, and with whose members they

maintain not unfrequently familiar relations, regard with an aversion of

which it is impossible to give an idea to one who has not seen its

manifestations, the people of New England and the populations of the

Northern States, whom they regard as tainted beyond cure by the venom of

“Puritanism.” Whatever may be the cause, this is the fact and the

effect. “The state of South Carolina was,” I am told, “founded by

gentlemen.” It was not established by witch-burning Puritans, by cruel

persecuting fanatics, who implanted in the North the standard of

Torquemada, and breathed into the nostrils of their newly-born colonies

all the ferocity, bloodthirstiness, and rabid intolerance of the

Inquisition. It is absolutely astounding to a stranger who aims at the

preservation of a decent neutrality to mark the violence of these

opinions. “If that confounded ship had sunk with those ---- Pilgrim

Fathers on board,” says one, “we never should have been driven to these

extremities!” “We could have got on with the fanatics if they had been

either Christians or gentlemen,” says another; “for in the first case

they would have acted with common charity, and in the second they would

have fought when they insulted us; but there are neither Christians nor

gentlemen among them!” “Any thing on the earth!” exclaims a third, “any

form of government, any tyranny or despotism you will; but”--and here is

an appeal more terrible than the adjuration of all the gods--“nothing on

earth shall ever induce us to submit to any union with the brutal,

bigoted blackguards of the New England States, who neither comprehend

nor regard the feelings of gentlemen! Man, woman, and child, we’ll die

first.” Imagine these and an infinite variety of similar sentiments

uttered by courtly, well-educated men, who set great store on a nice

observance of the usages of society, and who are only moved to extreme

bitterness and anger when they speak of the North, and you will fail to

conceive the intensity of the dislike of the South Carolinians for the

free states. There are national antipathies on our side of the Atlantic

which are tolerably strong, and have been unfortunately pertinacious and

long-lived. The hatred of the Italian for the Tedesco, of the Greek for

the Turk, of the Turk for the Russ, is warm and fierce enough to satisfy

the Prince of Darkness, not to speak of a few little pet aversions among

allied powers and the atoms of composite empires; but they are all mere

indifference and neutrality of feeling compared to the animosity evinced

the “gentry” of South Carolina for the “rabble of the North.”

The contests of Cavalier and Roundhead, of Vendean and Republican, even

of Orangeman and Croppy, have been elegant joustings, regulated by the

finest rules of chivalry, compared with those which North and South will

carry on if their deeds support their words. “Immortal hate, the study

of revenge,” will actuate every blow, and never in the history of the

world, perhaps, will go forth such a dreadful _væ victis_ as that which

may be heard before the fight has begun. There is nothing in all the

dark caves of human passion so cruel and deadly as the hatred the South

Carolinians profess for the Yankees. That hatred has been swelling for

years till it is the very life-blood of the state. It has set South

Carolina to work steadily to organize her resources for the struggle

which she intended to provoke if it did not come in the course of time.

“Incompatibility of temper” would have been sufficient ground for the

divorce, and I am satisfied that there has been a deep-rooted design,

conceived in some men’s minds thirty years ago, and extended gradually

year after year to others, to break away from the Union at the very

first opportunity. The North is to South Carolina a corrupt and evil

thing, to which for long years she has been bound by burning chains,

while monopolists and manufacturers fed on her tender limbs. She has

been bound in a Maxentian union to the object she loathes. New England

is to her the incarnation of moral and political wickedness and social

corruption. It is the source of every thing which South Carolina hates,

and of the torrents of free thought and taxed manufactures, of

Abolitionism and of Filibustering, which have flooded the land. Believe

a Southern man as he believes himself, and you must regard New England

and the kindred states as the birthplace of impurity of mind among men

and of unchastity in women--the home of Free Love, of Fourierism, of

Infidelity, of Abolitionism, of false teachings in political economy and

in social life; a land saturated with the drippings of rotten

philosophy, with the poisonous infections of a fanatic press; without

honor or modesty; whose wisdom is paltry cunning, whose valor and

manhood have been swallowed up in a corrupt, howling demagogy, and in

the marts of a dishonest commerce. It is the merchants of New York who

fit out ships for the slave-trade, and carry it on in Yankee ships. It

is the capital of the North which supports, and it is Northern men who

concoct and execute, the filibustering expeditions which have brought

discredit on the slave-holding states. In the large cities people are

corrupted by itinerant and ignorant lecturers--in the towns and in the

country by an unprincipled press. The populations, indeed, know how to

read and write, but they don’t know how to think, and they are the easy

victims of the wretched impostors on all the ’ologies and ’isms who

swarm over the region, and subsist by lecturing on subjects which the

innate vices of mankind induce them to accept with eagerness, while they

assume the garb of philosophical abstractions to cover their nastiness,

in deference to a contemptible and universal hypocrisy.

“Who fills the butchers’ shops with large blue flies?”

Assuredly the New England demon, who has been persecuting the South

until its intolerable cruelty and insolence forced her, in a spasm of

agony, to rend her chains asunder. The New Englander must have something

to persecute, and as he has hunted down all his Indians, burnt all his

witches, and persecuted all his opponents to the death, he invented

Abolitionism as the sole resource left to him for the gratification of

his favorite passion. Next to this motive principle is his desire to

make money dishonestly, trickily, meanly, and shabbily. He has acted on

it in all his relations with the South, and has cheated and plundered

her in all his dealings by villainous tariffs. If one objects that the

South must have been a party to this, because her boast is that her

statesmen have ruled the government of the country, you are told that

the South yielded out of pure good-nature. Now, however, she will have

free-trade, and will open the coasting trade to foreign nations, and

shut out from it the hated Yankees, who so long monopolized and made

their fortunes by it. Under all the varied burdens and miseries to which

she was subjected, the South held fast to her sheet-anchor. South

Carolina was the mooring-ground in which it found the surest hold. The

doctrine of State Rights was her salvation, and the fiercer the storm

raged against her--the more stoutly demagogy, immigrant preponderance,

and the blasts of universal suffrage bore down on her, threatening to

sweep away the vested interests of the South in her right to govern the

states--the greater was her confidence and the more resolutely she held

on her cable. The North attracted “hordes of ignorant Germans and

Irish,” and the scum of Europe, while the South repelled them. The

industry, the capital of the North increased with enormous rapidity,

under the influence of cheap labor and manufacturing ingenuity and

enterprise, in the villages which swelled into towns, and the towns

which became cities, under the unenvious eye of the South. She, on the

contrary, toiled on slowly, clearing forests and draining swamps to find

new cotton-grounds and rice-fields, for the employment of her only

industry and for the development of her only capital--“involuntary

labor.” The tide of immigration waxed stronger, and by degrees she saw

the districts into which she claimed the right to introduce that capital

closed against her, and occupied by free labor. The doctrine of squatter

“sovereignty,” and the force of hostile tariffs, which placed a heavy

duty on the very articles which the South most required, completed the

measure of injuries to which she was subjected, and the spirit of

discontent found vent in fiery debate, in personal insults, and in

acrimonious speaking and writing, which increased in intensity in

proportion as the Abolition movement, and the contest between the

Federal principle and State Rights became more vehement. I am desirous

of showing in a few words, for the information of English readers, how

it is that the Confederacy which Europe knew simply as a political

entity has succeeded in dividing itself. The slave states held the

doctrine, or say they did, that each state was independent, as France or

as England, but that for certain purposes they chose a common agent to

deal with foreign nations, and to impose taxes for the purpose of paying

the expenses of the agency. We, it appears, talked of American citizens

when there were no such beings at all. There were, indeed, citizens of

the sovereign state of South Carolina, or of Georgia or Florida, who

permitted themselves to pass under that designation, but it was merely

as a matter of personal convenience. It will be difficult for Europeans

to understand this doctrine, as nothing like it has been heard before,

and no such Confederation of sovereign states has ever existed in any

country in the world. The Northern men deny that it existed here, and

claim for the Federal Government powers not compatible with such

assumptions. _They_ have lived for the Union, they served it, they

labored for and made money by it. A man as a New York man was

nothing--as an American citizen he was a great deal. A South Carolinian

objected to lose his identity in any description which included him and

a “Yankee clockmaker” in the same category. The Union was against him;

he remembered that he came from a race of English gentlemen who had been

persecuted by the representatives--for he will not call them the

ancestors--of the Puritans of New England, and he thought that they were

animated by the same hostility to himself. He was proud of old names,

and he felt pleasure in tracing his connection with old families in the

old country. His plantations were held by old charters, or had been in

the hands of his fathers for several generations; and he delighted to

remember that when the Stuarts were banished from their throne and their

country, the burgesses of South Carolina had solemnly elected the

wandering Charles king of their state, and had offered him an asylum and

a kingdom. The philosophical historian may exercise his ingenuity in

conjecturing what would have been the result if this fugitive had

carried his fortunes to Charleston.

South Carolina contains 34,000 square miles, and a population of 720,000

inhabitants, of whom 385,000 are black slaves. In the old rebellion it

was distracted between revolutionary principles and the loyalist

predilections, and at least one half of the planters were faithful to

George III., nor did they yield till Washington sent an army to support

their antagonists, and drove them from the colony.

In my next letter I shall give a brief account of a visit to some of

the planters, as far as it can be made consistent with the obligations

which the rites and rights of hospitality impose on the guest as well as

upon the host. These gentlemen are well-bred, courteous, and hospitable.

A genuine aristocracy, they have time to cultivate their minds, to apply

themselves to politics and the guidance of public affairs. They travel

and read, love field-sports, racing, shooting, hunting, and fishing, are

bold horsemen, and good shots. But, after all, their state is a modern

Sparta--an aristocracy resting on a helotry, and with nothing else to

rest upon. Although they profess (and I believe, indeed, sincerely) to

hold opinions in opposition to the opening of the slave-trade, it is

nevertheless true that the clause in the constitution of the Confederate

States which prohibited the importation of negroes was especially and

energetically resisted by them, because, as they say, it seemed to be an

admission that slavery was in itself an evil and a wrong. Their whole

system rests on slavery, and as such they defend it. They entertain very

exaggerated ideas of the military strength of their little community,

although one may do full justice to its military spirit. Out of their

whole population they cannot reckon more than 60,000 adult men by any

arithmetic, and as there are nearly 30,000 plantations which must be,

according to law, superintended by white men, a considerable number of

these adults cannot be spared from the state for service in the open

field. The planters boast that they can raise their crops without any

inconvenience by the labor of their negroes, and they seem confident

that the negroes will work without superintendence. But the experiment

is rather dangerous, and it will only be tried in the last extremity.

* * * * *

SAVANNAH, GA., _May_ 1, 1861.

It is said that “fools build houses for wise men to live in.” Be that

true or not, it is certain that “Uncle Sam” has built strong places for

his enemies to occupy. To-day I have visited Fort Pulaski, which defends

the mouth of the Savannah River and the approaches to the city. It was

left to take care of itself, and the Georgians quietly stepped into it,

and have been busied in completing its defences, so that it is now

capable of stopping a fleet very effectually. Pulaski was a Pole who

fell in the defence of Savannah against the British, and whose memory is

perpetuated in the name of the fort, which is now under the Confederate

flag, and garrisoned by bitter foes of the United States. Among our

party were Commodore Tatnall, whose name will be familiar to English

ears in connection with the attack on the Peiho Forts, where the gallant

American showed the world that “blood was thicker than water;”

Brigadier-General Lawton, in command of the forces of Georgia, and a

number of naval and military officers, of whom many had belonged to the

United States regular services. It was strange to look at such a man as

the commodore, who, for forty-nine long years, had served under the

stars and stripes, quietly preparing to meet his old comrades and

friends, if needs be, in the battle-field--his allegiance to the country

and to the flag renounced, his long service flung away, his old ties and

connections severed--and all this in defence of the sacred right of

rebellion on the part of “his state.” He is not now, nor has he been for

years, a slave-owner; all his family and familiar associations connect

him with the North. There are no naval stations on the Southern coasts

except one at Pensacola, and he knows almost no one in the South. He has

no fortune whatever, his fleet consists of two small river or coasting

steamers, without guns, and as he said, in talking over the resources of

the South, “My bones will be bleached many a long year before the

Confederate States can hope to have a navy.” “State Rights!” To us the

question is simply inexplicable or absurd. And yet thousands of

Americans sacrifice all for it. The river at Savannah is broad as the

Thames at Gravesend, and resembles that stream very much in the color of

its waters and the level nature of its shores. Rice-fields bound it on

either side, as far down as the influence of the fresh water extends,

and the eye wanders over a flat expanse of mud and water, and green

oziers and rushes, till its search is arrested on the horizon by the

unfailing line of forest. In the fields here and there, are the

whitewashed, square, wooden huts in which the slaves dwell, looking very

like the beginnings of the camp in the Crimea. At one point a small

fort, covering a creek, by which gun-boats could get up behind Savannah,

displayed its “garrison” on the walls, and lowered its flag to salute

the small blue ensign at the fore, which proclaimed the presence of the

commodore of the naval forces of Georgia on board our steamer. The guns

on the parapet were mostly field-pieces, mounted on frameworks of wood

instead of regular carriages. There is no mistake about the spirit of

these people. They seize upon every spot of vantage ground and prepare

it for defence. There were very few ships in the river; the yacht

Camilla, better known as the America, the property of Captain Deasy, and

several others of those few sailing under British colors, for most of

the cotton ships are gone. After steaming down the river about twelve

miles the sea opened out to the sight, and on a long marshy, narrow

island near the bar, which was marked by the yellow surf, Fort Pulaski

threw out the Confederate flag to the air of the Georgian 1st of May.

The water was too shallow to permit the steamer to go up to the jetty,

and the party landed at the wharf in boats. A guard was on duty at the

landing--tall, stout young fellows, in various uniforms, or in rude

mufti, in which the Garibaldian red shirt, and felt slouched hats

predominated. They were armed with smooth-bore muskets (date 1851),

quite new, and their bayonets, barrels, and locks, were bright and

clean. The officer on duty was dressed in the blue frock-coat, dear to

the British linesman in days gone by, with brass buttons, emblazoned

with the arms of the state, a red silk sash, and glazed kepi, and

straw-colored gauntlets. Several wooden huts, with flower-gardens in

front, were occupied by the officers of the garrison; others were used

as hospitals, and were full of men suffering from measles of a mild

type. A few minutes’ walk led us to the fort, which is an irregular

pentagon, with the base line or curtain face inlands, and the other

faces casemated and bearing on the approaches. The curtain, which is

simply crenellated, is covered by a redan surrounded by a deep ditch,

inside the parapet of which are granite platforms ready for the

reception of guns. The parapet is thick, and the scarp and counterscarp

are faced with solid masonry. A drawbridge affords access to the

interior of the redan, whence the gate of the fort is approached across

a deep and broad moat, which is crossed by another drawbridge. As the

commodore entered the redan, the guns of the fort broke out into a long

salute, and the band at the gate struck up almost as noisy a welcome.

Inside, the parade presented a scene of life and animation very unlike

the silence of the city we had left. Men were busy clearing out the

casemates, rolling away stores and casks of ammunition and provisions,

others were at work at the gin and shears, others building sand-bag

traverses to guard the magazine doors, as though expecting an immediate

attack. Many officers were strolling under the shade of an open gallery

at the side of the curtain which contained their quarters in the lofty

bomb-proof casemates. Some of them had seen service in Mexican or border

warfare; some had travelled over Italian and Crimean battle-fields;

others were West Point graduates of the regular army; others young

planters, clerks, or civilians, who rushed with ardor into the first

Georgian regiment. The garrison of the fort is some 650 men, and fully

that number were in and about the work, their tents being pitched inside

the redan, or on the terreplein of the parapets. The walls are

exceedingly solid, and well built of gray brick, strong as iron, and

upward of six feet in thickness, the casemates and bomb-proofs being

lofty, airy, and capacious as any I have ever seen, though there is not

quite depth enough between the walls at the salient and the

gun-carriages. The work is intended for 128 guns, of which about one

fourth are mounted on the casemates. They are long 32’s, with a few

42’s and columbiads. The armaments will be exceedingly heavy when all

the guns are mounted, and they are fast getting the ten-inch columbiads

into position _en barbette_. Every thing which could be required, except

mortars, was in abundance--the platforms and gun-carriages are solid and

well made, the embrasures of the casemates are admirably constructed,

and the ventilation of the bomb-proof carefully provided for. There are

three furnaces for heating redhot shot. Nor is discipline neglected, and

the officers with whom I went round the works were as sharp in tone and

manner to their men as volunteers well could be, though the latter often

are enlisted for only three years by the state of Georgia. An excellent

lunch was spread in the casemated bomb-proof which served as the

colonel’s quarter, and before sunset the party were steaming toward

Savannah through a tide-way full of leaping sturgeon and porpoises,

leaving the garrison intent on the approach of a large ship, which had

her sails aback off the bar, and hoisted the stars and stripes, but

which turned out to be nothing more formidable than a Liverpool cotton

ship. It will take some hard blows before Georgia is driven to let go

her grip of Fort Pulaski. The channel is very narrow, and passes close

to the guns of the fort. The means of completing the armament have been

furnished by the stores of Norfolk Navy-Yard, where between 700 and 800

guns have fallen into the hands of the Confederates; and, if there are

no columbiads among them, the Merrimac and other ships, which have been

raised, as we hear, with guns uninjured, will yield up their Dahlgrens

to turn their muzzles against their old masters.

_May_ 2.--May Day was so well kept yesterday that the exhausted editors

cannot “bring out” their papers, and consequently there is no news; but

there is, nevertheless, much to be said concerning “our President’s”

message, and there is a suddenness of admiration for pacific tendencies

which can with difficulty be accounted for, unless the news from the

North these last few days has something to do with it. Not a word now

about an instant march on Washington! no more threats to seize Faneuil

Hall! The Georgians are by no means so keen as the Carolinians on their

border--nay, they are not so belligerent to-day as they were a week ago.

Mr. Jefferson Davis’s message is praised for its “moderation” and for

other qualities which were by no means in such favor while the Sumter

fever was at its height. Men look grave and talk about the interference

of England and France, which “cannot allow this thing to go on.” But the

change which has come over them is unmistakable, and the best men begin

to look grave. As for me, I must prepare to open my lines of retreat--my

communications are in danger.

MONTGOMERY, CAPITAL OF THE CONFEDERATE STATES OF AMERICA,

_May_ 8, 1861.

In my last letter I gave an account of such matters as passed under my

notice on my way to this city, which I reached, as you are aware, on the

night of Saturday, May 4. I am on difficult ground, the land is on fire,

the earth is shaking with the tramp of armed men, and the very air is

hot with passion. My communications are cut off, or are at best

accidental, and in order to reopen them I must get further away from

them, paradoxical as the statement may appear to be. It is impossible to

know what is going on in the North, and it is almost the same to learn

what is doing in the South out of eye-shot; it is useless to inquire

what news is sent to you to England. Events hurry on with tremendous

rapidity, and even the lightning lags behind them. The people of the

South at last are aware that the “Yankees” are preparing to support the

government of the United States, and that the Secession can only be

maintained by victory in the field. There has been a change in their war

policy. They now aver that “they only want to be left alone,” and they

declare that they do not intend to take Washington, and that it was

merely as a feint they spoke about it. The fact is, there are even in

the compact and united South men of moderate and men of extreme views,

and the general tone of the whole is regulated by the preponderance of

one or other at the moment. I have no doubt on my mind that the

government here intended to attack and occupy Washington--not the least

that they had it much at heart to reduce Fort Pickens as soon as

possible. Now some of their friends say that it will be a mere matter of

convenience whether they attack Washington or not, and that, as for Fort

Pickens, they will certainly let it alone, at all events for the

present, inasmuch as the menacing attitude of General Bragg obliges the

enemy to keep a squadron of their best ships there and to retain a force

of regulars they can ill spare in a position where they must soon lose

enormously from diseases incidental to the climate. They have

discovered, too, that the position is of little value so long as the

United States hold Tortugas and Key West. But the Confederates are

preparing for the conflict, and when they have organized their forces,

they will make, I am satisfied, a very resolute advance all along the

line. They are at present strong enough, they suppose, in their domestic

resources, and in the difficulties presented to a hostile force by the

nature of the country, to bid defiance to invasion, or, at all events,

to inflict a very severe chastisement on the invaders, and their excited

manner of speech so acts upon their minds that they begin to think they

can defy, not merely the United States, but the world. Thus it is that

they declare they never can be conquered, that they will die, to a man,

woman, and child, first, and that if 50,000, or any number of thousands

of black republicans get 100 miles into Virginia, not one man of them

shall ever get out alive. Behind all this talk, however, there is

immense energy, great resolution, and fixed principles of action. Their

strategy consists in keeping quiet till they have their troops well in

hand, in such numbers and discipline as shall give them fair grounds for

expecting success in any campaign with the United States troops. They

are preparing with vigor to render the descent of the Mississippi

impossible, by erecting batteries on the commanding levees, or

embankments which hem in its waters for upwards of 800 miles of bank,

and they are occupying, as far as they can, all the strategical points

of attack or defence within their borders. When every thing is ready, it

is not improbable that Mr. Jefferson Davis will take command of the

army, for he is reported to have a high ambition to acquire reputation

as a general, and in virtue of his office he is generalissimo of the

armies of the Confederate States. It will be remarked that this plan

rests on the assumption that the United States cannot or will not wage

an offensive war, or obtain any success in their attempts to recover the

forts and other property of the Federal government. They firmly believe

the war will not last a year, and that 1862 will behold a victorious,

compact, slaveholding confederate power of fifteen states under a strong

government, prepared to hold its own against the world, or that portion

of it which may attack it. I now but repeat the sentiments and

expectations of those around me. They believe in the irresistible power

of cotton, in the natural alliance between manufacturing England and

France and the cotton-producing slave states, in the force of their

simple tariff, and in the interests which arise out of a system of free

trade, which, however, by a rigorous legislation, they will interdict to

their neighbors in the free states, and only open for the benefit of

their foreign customers. Commercially, and politically, and militarily,

they have made up their minds, and never was there such confidence

exhibited by any people in the future as they have, or pretend to have,

in their destiny. Listen to their programme.

It is intended to buy up all the cotton crop which can be brought into

the market at an average price, and to give bonds of the Confederate

States for the amount, these bonds being, as we know, secured by the

export duty on cotton. The government, with this cotton crop in its own

hands, will use it as a formidable machine of war, for cotton can do any

thing, from the establishment of an empire to the securing of a shirt

button. It is at once king and subject, master and servant, captain and

soldier, artilleryman and gun. Not one bale of cotton will be permitted

to enter the Northern States. It will be made an offence punishable

with tremendous penalties, among which confiscation of property,

enormous fines, and even the penalty of death, are enumerated, to send

cotton into the free states. Thus Lowell and its kindred factories will

be reduced to ruin, it is said, and the North to the direst distress. If

Manchester can get cotton and Lowell cannot, there are good times coming

for the mill-owners.

The planters have agreed among themselves to hold over one half of their

cotton crop for their own purposes and for the culture of their fields,

and to sell the other to the government. For each bale of cotton, as I

hear, a bond will be issued on the fair average price of cotton in the

market, and this bond must be taken at par as a circulating medium

within the limits of the slave states. This forced circulation will be

secured by the act of the legislature. The bonds will bear interest at

ten per cent., and they will be issued on the faith and security of the

proceeds of the duty of one eighth of a cent on every pound of cotton

exported. All vessels loading with cotton will be obliged to enter into

bonds or give security that they will not carry their cargoes to

Northern ports, or let it reach Northern markets to their knowledge. The

government will sell the cotton for cash to foreign buyers, and will

thus raise funds amply sufficient, they contend, for all purposes. I

make these bare statements, and I leave to political economists the

discussion of the question which may and will arise out of the acts of

the Confederate States. The Southerners argue that by breaking from

their unnatural alliance with the North they will save upward of

$47,000,000, or nearly £10,000,000 sterling annually. The estimated

value of the annual cotton crop is $200,000,000. On this the North

formerly made at least $10,000,000, by advances, interest and exchanges,

which in all came to fully five per cent. on the whole of the crop.

Again, the tariff to raise revenue sufficient for the maintenance of the

government of the Southern Confederacy is far less than that which is

required by the government of the United States. The Confederate States

propose to have a tariff which will be about 12½ per cent. on imports,

which will yield $25,000,000. The Northern tariff is 30 per cent., and

as the South took from the North $70,000,000 worth of manufactured goods

and produce, they contribute, they assert, to the maintenance of the

North to the extent of the difference between the tax sufficient for the

support of their government and that which is required for the support

of the Federal government. Now they will save the difference between 30

per cent. and 12½ per cent. (17½ per ct.), which amounts to $37,000,000,

which, added to the saving on commissions, exchanges, advances, &c.,

makes up the good round sum which I have put down higher up. The

Southerners are firmly convinced that they have “kept the North going”

by the prices they have paid for the protected articles of their

manufacture, and they hold out to Sheffield, to Manchester, to Leeds, to

Wolverhampton, to Dudley, to Paris, to Lyons, to Bordeaux, to all the

centres of English manufacturing life, as of French taste and luxury,

the tempting baits of new and eager and hungry markets. If their facts

and statistics are accurate, there can be no doubt of the justice of

their deductions on many points; but they can scarcely be correct in

assuming that they will bring the United States to destruction by

cutting off from Lowell the 600,000 bales of cotton which she usually

consumes. One great fact, however, is unquestionable--the government has

in its hands the souls, the wealth, and the hearts of the people. They

will give anything--money, labor, life itself--to carry out their

theories. “Sir,” said an ex-governor of this state to me to-day, “sooner

than submit to the North, we will all become subject to Great Britain

again.” The same gentleman is one of many who have given to the

government a large portion of their cotton crop every year as a

free-will offering. In this instance his gift is one of 500 bales of

cotton, or £5,000 per annum, and the papers teem with accounts of

similar “patriotism” and devotion. The ladies are all making sand-bags,

cartridges, and uniforms, and, if possible, they are more fierce than

the men. The time for mediation is past, if it ever were at hand or

present at all; and it is scarcely possible now to prevent the processes

of phlebotomization which are supposed to secure peace and repose.

There was no intelligence of much interest on Sunday, but there is a

general belief that Arkansas and Missouri will send in their adhesion to

the Confederacy this week, and the Commissioners from Virginia are

hourly expected. The attitude of that state, however, gives rise to

apprehensions lest there may be a division of her strength; and any

aggression on her territories by the Federal government, such as that

contemplated in taking possession of Alexandria, would be hailed by the

Montgomery government with sincere joy, as it would, they think, move

the state to more rapid action and decision.

Montgomery is on an undulating plain, and covers ground large enough for

a city of 200,000 inhabitants, but its population is only 12,000.

Indeed, the politicians here appear to dislike large cities, but the

city designers certainly prepare to take them if they come. There is a

large negro population, and a considerable number of a color which

forces me to doubt the evidence of my senses rather than the statements

made to me by some of my friends, that the planters affect the character

of parent in their moral relations merely with the negro race. A waiter

at the hotel--a tall, handsome young fellow, with the least tinge of

color in his cheek, not as dark as the majority of Spaniards or

Italians--astonished me in my ignorance to-day when, in reply to a

question asked by one of our party, in consequence of a discussion on

the point, he informed me he “was a slave.” The man, as he said so,

looked confused; his manner altered. He had been talking familiarly to

us, but the moment he replied, “I am a slave, sir,” his loquacity

disappeared, and he walked hurriedly and in silence out of the room. The

River Alabama, on which the city rests, is a wide, deep stream, now a

quarter of a mile in breadth, with a current of four miles an hour. It

is navigable to Mobile, upward of 400 miles, and steamers ascend its

waters for many miles beyond this into the interior. The country around

is well wooded, and is richly cultivated in broad fields of cotton and

Indian corn, but the neighborhood is not healthy, and deadly fevers are

said to prevail at certain seasons of the year. There is not much

animation in the streets, except when “there is a difficulty among the

citizens,” or in the eternal noise of the hotel steps and bars. I was

told this morning by the hotel keeper that I was probably the only

person in the house, or about it, who had not loaded revolvers in his

pockets, and one is aware occasionally of an unnatural rigidity scarcely

attributable to the osseous structure in the persons of those who pass

one in the crowded passages.

_Monday, May_ 6.--To-day I visited the capitol, where the Provisional

Congress is sitting. On leaving the hotel, which is like a small

Willard’s, so far as the crowd in the hall is concerned, my attention

was attracted to a group of people to whom a man was holding forth in

energetic sentences. The day was hot, but I pushed near to the spot, for

I like to hear a stump-speech, or to pick up a stray morsel of divinity

in the _via sacra_ of strange cities, and it appeared as though the

speaker was delivering an oration or a sermon. The crowd was small.

Three or four idle men in rough, homespun, makeshift uniforms, leaned

against the iron rails enclosing a small pond of foul, green-looking

water, surrounded by brick-work, which decorates the space in front of

the Exchange hotel. The speaker stood on an empty deal packing-case. A

man in a cart was listening with a lacklustre eye to the address. Some

three or four others, in a sort of vehicle which might either be a

hearse or a piano van, had also drawn up for the benefit of the address.

Five or six other men, in long black coats and high hats, some whittling

sticks, and chewing tobacco, and discharging streams of discolored

saliva, completed the group. “N-i-n-e h’hun’ nerd and fifty dollars?

Only nine h-hun nerd and fifty dollars offered for him!” exclaimed the

man, in the tone of injured dignity, remonstrance and surprise, which

can be insinuated by all true auctioneers into the dryest numerical

statements. “Will _no one_ make any advance on nine hundred and fifty

dollars?” A man near me opened his mouth, spat, and said, “twenty-five.”

“Only nine hundred and seventy-five dollars offered for him. Why, at’s

radaklous--only nine hundred and seventy-five dollars! Will no one,” &c.

Beside the orator auctioneer stood a stout young man of five-and-twenty

years of age, with a bundle in his hand. He was a muscular fellow,

broad-shouldered, narrow flanked, but rather small in stature; he had on

a broad, greasy, old wide-awake, a blue jacket, a coarse cotton shirt,

loose and rather ragged trowsers, and broken shoes. The expression of

his face was heavy and sad, but it was by no means disagreeable, in

spite of his thick lips, broad nostrils, and high cheek-bones. On his

head was wool instead of hair. I am neither sentimentalist nor black

republican, nor negro-worshipper, but I confess the sight caused a

strange thrill through my heart. I tried in vain to make myself familiar

with the fact that I could, for the sum of $975, become as absolutely

the owner of that mass of blood, bones, sinew, flesh, and brains, as of

the horse which stood by my side. There was no sophistry which could

persuade me the man was not a man--he was, indeed, by no means my

brother, but assuredly he was a fellow-creature. I have seen slave

markets in the East, but somehow or other the Orientalism of the scene

cast a coloring over the nature of the sales there which deprived them

of the disagreeable harshness and matter-of-fact character of the

transaction before me. For Turk, or Smyrniote, or Egyptian to buy and

sell slaves seemed rather suited to the eternal fitness of things than

otherwise. The turbaned, shawled, loose-trowsered, pipe-smoking

merchants speaking an unknown tongue looked as if they were engaged in a

legitimate business. One knew that their slaves would not be condemned

to any very hard labor, and that they would be in some sort the inmates

of the family, and members of it. Here it grated on my ear to listen to

the familiar tones of the English tongue as the medium by which the

transfer was effected, and it was painful to see decent-looking men in

European garb engaged in the work before me. Perchance these impressions

may wear off, for I meet many English people who are the most strenuous

advocates of the slave system, although it is true that their

perceptions may be quickened to recognize its beauties by their

participation in the profits. The negro was sold to one of the

bystanders, and walked off with his bundle, God knows where. “Niggers is

cheap,” was the only remark of the bystanders. I continued my walk up a

long, wide, straight street, or more properly, an unpaved sandy road,

lined with wooden houses on each side, and with trees by the side of the

footpath. The lower of the two stories is generally used as a shop,

mostly of the miscellaneous store kind, in which all sorts of articles

are to be had if there is any money to pay for them; and, in the present

case, if any faith is to be attached to the conspicuous notices in the

windows, credit is of no credit, and the only thing that can be accepted

in exchange for the goods is “cash.” At the end of this long street, on

a moderate eminence, stands a whitewashed or painted edifice, with a

gaunt, lean portico, supported on lofty lanky pillars, and surmounted by

a subdued and dejected-looking little cupola. Passing an unkempt lawn,

through a very shabby little gateway in a brick frame, and we ascend a

flight of steps into a hall, from which a double staircase conducts us

to the vestibule of the chamber. Any thing much more offensive to the

eye cannot well be imagined than the floor and stairs. They are stained

deeply by tobacco juice, which has left its marks on the white stone

steps and on the base of the pillars outside. In the hall which we have

entered there are two tables, covered with hams, oranges, bread and

fruits, for the refreshment of members and visitors, over which two

sable goddesses, in portentous crinoline, preside. The door of the

chamber is open, and we are introduced into a lofty, well-lighted and

commodious apartment, in which the Congress of the Confederate States

holds its deliberations. A gallery runs half round the room, and is half

filled with visitors--country cousins, and farmers of cotton and maize,

and, haply, seekers of places great or small. A light and low

semicircular screen separates the body of the house, where the members

sit, from the space under the gallery, which is appropriated to ladies

and visitors. The clerk sits at a desk above this table, and on a

platform behind him are the desk and chair of the presiding officer or

Speaker of the Congress. Over his head hangs the unfailing portrait of

Washington, and a small engraving, in a black frame, of a gentleman

unknown to me. Seated in the midst of them, at a senator’s desk, I was

permitted to “assist,” in the French sense, at the deliberations of the

Congress. Mr. Howell Cobb took the chair, and a white-headed clergyman

was called upon to say prayers, which he did, upstanding, with

outstretched hands and closed eyes, by the side of the speaker. The

prayer was long and sulphureous. One more pregnant with gunpowder I

never heard, nor could aught like it have been heard since.

“Pulpit, drum ecclesiastic,

Was beat with fist instead of stick.”

The reverend gentleman prayed that the Almighty might be pleased to

inflict on the arms of the United States such a defeat that it might be

the example of signal punishment forever--that this president might be

blessed, and the other president might be the other thing--that the

gallant, devoted young soldiers who were fighting for their country

might not suffer from exposure to the weather or from the bullets of

their enemies; and that the base mercenaries who were fighting on the

other side might come to sure and swift destruction, and so on.

Are right and wrong mere geographical expressions? The prayer was over

at last, and the house proceeded to business. Although each state has

several delegates in Congress, it is only entitled to one vote on a

strict division. In this way some curious decisions may be arrived at,

as the smallest state is equal to the largest, and a majority of the

Florida representatives may neutralize a vote of all the Georgia

representatives. For example, Georgia has ten delegates; Florida has

only three. The vote of Florida, however, is determined by the action of

any two of its three representatives, and these two may, on a division,

throw the one state vote into the scale against that of Georgia, for

which ten members are agreed. The Congress transacts all its business in

secret session, and finds it a very agreeable and commendable way of

doing it. Thus, to-day, for example, after the presentation of a few

unimportant motions and papers, the speaker rapped his desk, and

announced that the house would go into secret session, and that all who

were not members should leave.

As I was returning to the hotel there was another small crowd at the

fountain. Another auctioneer, a fat, flabby, perspiring, puffy man, was

trying to sell a negro girl, who stood on the deal box beside him. She

was dressed pretty much like a London servant-girl of the lower order

out of place, except that her shoes were mere shreds of leather patches,

and her bonnet would have scarce passed muster in the New Cut. She, too,

had a little bundle in her hand, and looked out at the buyers from a

pair of large sad eyes. “Niggers were cheap;” still here was this young

woman going for an upset price of $610, but no one would bid, and the

auctioneer, after vain attempts to raise the price and excite

competition, said, “Not sold to-day, Sally; you may get down.”

_Tuesday, May_ 7.--The newspapers contain the text of the declaration of

a state of war on the part of President Davis, and of the issue of

letters of marque and reprisal, &c. But it may be asked, who will take

these letters of marque? Where is the government of Montgomery to find

ships? The answer is to be found in the fact that already numerous

applications have been received from the shipowners of New England, from

the whalers of New Bedford, and from others in the Northern States, for

these very letters of marque, accompanied by the highest securities and

guaranties! This statement I make on the very highest authority. I leave

it to you to deal with the facts.

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