THE TRAPPER'S MISCELLANY.
[Illustration: O]ur enthusiastic novice, as he starts out into the
wilderness, should not be unmindful of the swarms of blood-thirsty
flies, gnats and mosquitoes, which infest the woods in the summer
and early autumn, and are there lying in wait for him. These often
become a source of great annoyance to the woodsman, and more often
a source of positive bodily suffering.
Although trapping is not generally carried on during this season,
the preparations for the coming campaign, including the building
of shanties, transporting of traps, etc., are generally made at
this time, and unless some preventive is used, the persecutions of
the mosquitoes and other winged vermin, become almost unbearable.
INSECT OINTMENTS.
These insects seem to have a special aversion for the scent of
pennyroyal--an herb growing commonly in sandy localities--and a
single plant rubbed upon the face and hands will often greatly
check their attacks.
The oil of pennyroyal is better, however, and an ointment made by
straining one ounce of the oil into two or three ounces of pure
melted lard, or mutton tallow, forms an excellent antidote. This
may be carried in a little box or bottle, in the pocket, and applied
as occasion requires. Plain mutton tallow is also a most excellent
ointment for general use, and in the case of bruises or slight
wounds, will give great relief.
Another preparation in very common use amongst hunters and woodsmen,
although not quite as agreeable in odor, consists of a mixture of
common tar and sweet oil, in equal parts. By some this liniment
is considered superior to the other, inasmuch as it also prevents
tanning, and is beneficial to the complexion.
[Page 256]
During the night time, the tent or shanty often becomes swarmed
with the winged pests, and their nocturnal assaults are proverbial
for their pertinacity and severity. Their thirst for blood overcomes
every other instinct, and pennyroyal often ceases to have any effect.
Our Adirondack guide, in narrating his experience with these insect
vampires, even says that on a certain night, becoming exasperated at
their indomitable perseverance, and, getting tired of the monotonous
occupation of spreading ointment, he arose, lit his candle, and drove
the creatures out of the tent. He then buttoned up the opening, and
retired to rest. A storm came up in the night, and so completely
had his canvas been riddled by the bills of the mosquitoes, that
the rain poured through his tent as through a sieve.
We have heard of the man who, when pursued by hungry mosquitoes,
took refuge beneath a large chaldron, and, by the aid of a stone,
clinched the blood-thirsty bills as they protruded in quest of his
life-blood, until, by the united efforts of the winged captives,
the chaldron was lifted and wafted out of sight, as if it were a
feather.
One story is just as true as the other, and a summer in the Adirondack
woods will tend to strengthen, rather than diminish, the belief in
either.
The smoke of smouldering birch bark will effectually drive away
the mosquitoes from the tents at night. This method is commonly
known as "the smudge," and is more fully described in another part
of this work.
The smell of the smoke is often unpleasant at first, but it is always
preferable to the insect bites.
Mosquitoes are not the only vampires which infest our wooded lands.
The "punkeys" and "midgets" can outstrip them for voracity and the
painful character of the wound which they inflict. The "punkey,"
or "black-fly," as it is called, is a small, black gnat, about the
size of a garden ant, and the bite of the insect often results
very seriously. The midget is a minute little creature, and is the
most everlastingly sticky and exasperating pest in the catalogue
of human torments. They fly in swarms of thousands, and go for their
victim "en masse" and the face, hands and neck are soon covered as
if with "hay seed." They stick where they first light, and commence
operations immediately. All endeavors to shake them off are fruitless,
and their combined attacks are soon most painfully realized. Their
bites produce great redness and swelling, and the itching is most
intolerable. Happily for the woodsman, the "smudge"
[Page 257]
and pennyroyal ointment are effectual preventives against the attacks
of both midgets and black flies, as well as mosquitoes; and no one
who values his life or good looks should venture on a woodland
excursion in the summer months without a supply of this latter
commodity. In conclusion, we would remark that, to the mosquito
the blood of the intemperate seems to have a special attraction,
and anyone who wishes to enjoy comparative freedom from the attacks
of these pests, should abstain from the use of alcoholic stimulants.
It is a too prevalent idea among trappers that whiskey and rum are
necessary adjuncts to a trapping campaign, and many a trapper would
about as soon think of leaving his traps at home as his whisky bottle.
This is all a mistake. Anyone who has not sufficient strength of
constitution to withstand the hardships and exposures of a trapping
life, without the especial aid of stimulants, should stay at home.
We are now alluding to the _habitual_ use of such stimulants. It
is always well to be provided with a flask of whisky or brandy,
in case of illness, but it should only be resorted to in such an
event. For a mere chill, we recommend the use of red pepper tea. A
simple swallow of this drink, (made simply by soaking a red pepper
in a cup of hot water) will restore warmth much quicker than three
times the amount of any alcoholic stimulant. It is not our purpose to
extend into a lengthened temperance lecture, but only to discourage
the wide-spread idea that _stimulants_ are _necessities_ in the
life of the trapper. Midgets, musquitoes and punkeys delight over
a victim with alcohol in his veins, and while to a healthy subject
the bites are of only brief annoyance, to the intemperate they
often result in painful, obstinate sores.
[Illustration]
In addition to the various ointments used, it is well to be provided
with a head-net, such as we illustrate. Nets of this kind are specially
made for sportsmen, and consist of a spiral wire framework, covered
with mosquito netting, and of such a size to slip easily on the
head.
[Page 258]
They are easily made, as our engraving would indicate.
A netting attachment for the hat is also an acquisition, especially
in open woods, free from overhanging branches or dense thickets.
Such a netting may be secured to the edge of the hat brim, and
gathered with an elastic at the lower edge. This elastic will close
snugly around the neck when in use, and at other times may be drawn
above the brim and allowed to rest on top of the crown.
The portable hat brim, which we illustrate, is an article of trade
in common use among sportsmen, and particularly the angler. Our
engraving (_a_) shows the article separate. It is made of cloth,
and is kept in its circular shape by a steel spring band at the
circumference, between the two sides. It may be attached to any
hat, and will act as a most effectual shelter to the rays of a
hot sun.
[Illustration: a]
The netting above alluded to may be attached to such a brim, and
applied to the edge of the hat when desired. This is shown at (_b_),
which also indicates the manner of adjustment of the brim. Such a
brim will often do good service, and may be obtained at almost any
sporting emporium at trifling cost. It is portable in every sense
of the word, being easily bent and packed away in the pocket.
[Illustration: b]
[Page 259]
BOAT BUILDING.
Where trapping is carried on along the banks of the lakes and rivers,
a boat of some kind becomes almost a positive necessity.
[Illustration]
The following examples represent those in most general use. Perhaps
the most common form of the "rough and ready" order of boats, is
that called the--
"DUG-OUT," OR LOG CANOE.
It's general appearance is well indicated by the accompanying
illustration. With the proper tools, one of these canoes is easily
made. A sharp axe, an adze, a shaving knife, a round edged adze,
and a small auger, are principally necessary; and a cross-cut saw,
broad-axe, sledge, and large sized chisel, will also be found useful.
In any case the log should not be much less than two feet in diameter,
perfectly sound, and free from knots. If this precaution is observed,
the result will be all the more satisfactory, and the canoe can be
cut so thin, as to render it a light burden; being easily carried
on the shoulders.
A pine log is generally chosen for a dug-out, on account of the
lightness of the wood, and the ease with which it can be worked.
Butternut, cottonwood and whitewood, are also excellent, and indeed
almost any sound log of large size will answer the purpose.
For a dug-out of good size, the log should be ten or more feet
in length. The first thing to be done is to cut a flat surface on
one side of the log, from end to end. This indicates the bottom
of the canoe. On the upper side the wood should be hewn away, in
the curve shown on the upper outline of our illustration.
[Page 260]
It is well to divide the log by notches into three equal lengths.
In the centre division, the wood may be cut down to a straight
line to a depth of about eight inches from the upper surface. The
gradual curve to the bow and stern of the canoe should start from
each end of this flat cut, and extend to the upper edge of the log,
the guiding line being made on the sides of the log by a piece of
chalk. The adze will come into good use in trimming off the wood on
these curves. When this upper outline is accomplished, the log may
be turned bottom side up, and the sides of the extremities rounded
off. This may be done with an axe and adze, and when performed,
the bottom curves should be made by chopping away the wood in the
curves shown in the lower outline of our illustration. This curve
should also be marked out with chalk, and should commence a little
nearer the end of the log than the curve on the upper side. Shave
off the wood to a blunt edge on this curve, at both bow and stern.
The rough form of the canoe is now obtained, and by the aid of
the draw-knife, or shaving-knife, it can be neatly and smoothly
finished.
It is then ready to be "dug-out." The tools most useful for this
purpose are the adze and axe, and sometimes the sledge and chisel.
The digging out is of course the most tedious part; but with sharp
tools it is a comparatively easy matter. When the great bulk of the
wood is taken out, the interior should be finished with a howel
or round adze; and the sides may be worked to one inch and a half
in thickness if desired. The writer once saw one of these canoes
of most exquisite workmanship, being only one inch in thickness,
and so light as to be easily lifted with one hand. Of course such
perfection as this is not necessary for ordinary purposes; although
where the canoe is expected to be carried any great distance, it
is well to thin it as much as possible. A gimlet or small auger
may be used to gauge the thickness of the canoe, using it in the
following manner: Supposing the required thickness of the wood
is two inches, proceed to bore the hole from the inside of the
canoe, and continue until the point of the gimlet or auger barely
makes its appearance on the outside. Draw out the tool, and if the
thickness measures more than is required, insert into the hole
a slender piece of wood exactly two inches in length; push it in
as far as it will go, and you may safely work until you reach the
end of it. By this method the thickness may be gauged in different
parts of the boat sufficiently to acquire a fair average thickness,
[Page 261]
and there is no danger of cutting through. The gimlet should be
allowed to extend outside of the canoe only sufficiently to be
detected, and the holes thus made will seldom give any trouble as
leaks. If, however, this should be the case, a little putty or pitch
will remedy the difficulty.
The "dug-out" may be constructed of any size, and of any desired
shape, but the above is the usual type.
When leaks or cracks occur, they may be caulked with hemp, and
smeared with pitch, which will render them thoroughly waterproof.
For lightness and portability there is no boat more desirable or
more unique than--
THE INDIAN OR BIRCH-BARK CANOE.
Where the white birch grows in perfection, and the trees attain
a large size, the chief material of the birch bark canoe is at
hand; and although we ordinary mortals could not be expected to
attain to that perfection of skill which the Indians exhibit in
the manufacture of these canoes, we nevertheless can succeed
sufficiently well to answer all practical purposes. The Indian
canoes are often perfect marvels of skill and combined strength and
lightness. These half-civilized beings seem to take as naturally to
the making of these commodities, as if it were almost an hereditary
habit with them; and few men, even with the most exhaustive practice,
can compete with the Indian in the combined result of strength,
lightness, durability, external beauty, and nicety of work, which
are the united characteristics of the typical bark canoe.
The average length of the "Bark," as used by trappers, is about
twelve feet, but they may be constructed of any desired dimensions,
to the length of forty feet. A canoe of this size will carry fifteen
or twenty persons, and may be transported with ease upon the shoulders
of two strong men. The smaller size, above mentioned, is capable
of carrying two persons, and is a light load for a single man.
[Illustration]
In constructing the bark canoe the first requisite is the gunwale,
or upper framework. This should consist of four strips of cedar,
ash, or other light, strong wood; two for each side of the boat.
For an ordinary sized canoe, their length should be about twelve
feet, width one inch, and thickness one-quarter of an inch. They
should be tied together in pairs at the ends, and the two pairs
then joined at the same place. The object of
[Page 262]
these pieces is to give strength and form to the canoe, and to
offer a firm security for the edges of the bark, which are secured
between them. The gunwale being prepared, we are now ready for
the birch bark. The bottom of a well made canoe should be in one
large piece, as our illustration indicates, if possible. Select
some large tree with the trunk free from knots or excrescences.
Mark off as great a length as possible, and chop a straight cut
in the bark through the whole length of the piece, after which
it should be carefully peeled from the wood. It will sometimes
happen, where large birches exist in perfection, that a single
piece may be found of sufficient size for a whole canoe, but this
is rather exceptional, and the bottom is generally pieced out,
as seen in our drawing. This piecing may be accomplished with an
awl and Indian twine, or by the aid of a large needle threaded
with the same, sewing with an over-and-over stitch around the edge
of each piece. Use as large pieces as are attainable, and continue
to sew them on until the area of bark measures about four and a
half feet in width by twelve feet in length, the dark colored sides
of the bark all facing the same way. Next select a fiat piece of
ground, and mark off a distance of ten feet, or two feet less than
the length of the gunwales. At each end of the space two tall stakes
should be driven into the ground about three inches apart. Now
turn the bark on the ground with its white side uppermost, and
fold it loosely and evenly through the long centre. In this folded
condition it should now be lifted by the upper edge and set between
the stakes. There will then be about a foot of projecting bark
beyond each pair of stakes. These ends should now be covered by
folding another piece of bark over them, sewing the edges firmly
to the sides of the rude form of the canoe, which now presents
itself. When this is done, each end should be supported on a log
or stone; this will cause the bottom line to sink downwards at
about the proper curve. We are now ready for the gunwale. Lay it
in the proper position, fitting the edges of the bark between the
two strips on each side, and sewing around the whole with a winding
stitch, exactly after the manner of the edge of an ordinary palm-leaf
fan. The inside of the canoe should now be lined with long strips
of cedar running through the entire length of the boat if possible,
but if not, should be so cut as to neatly overlap at the ends.
These pieces should be an inch or two in width, and from a quarter
to half an inch-in thickness. The ribs are then to be put in. These
are generally made from ash, one or two inches in width, and
[Page 263]
a quarter of an inch in thickness. Any light flexible wood will
answer the purpose, and even barrel hoops when attainable will do
very well. These ribs should be bent to fit the interior of the
canoe crosswise, either close together, or with equal distances
between them and the ends should then be firmly secured beneath the
gunwales by a continuous loop-stitch through the bark. For a canoe
of twelve feet in length, the width should be about two feet, and in
order to keep the gunwales firm, two or more cross-pieces should
be inserted, and lashed firmly at their ends as our illustration
shows. The centre third of the length of the canoe should be parallel
at the sides, and if two braces, two feet in length are placed at
each end of this third, the shape will be about perfect. We now
have a bark canoe of considerable strength and durability, and
it only awaits to be made water-proof for final use. In order to
accomplish this all the seams outside, and the entire interior of
the canoe should, be smeared with pitch, after which its floating
qualities may be tested with confidence. Should any leaks occur their
where-abouts are easily detected, and an additional application
of pitch will remedy the difficulty. The Indians in sewing their
bark canoes use tamarack roots, fibrous plants, and grasses, in
lieu of thread, and even with these inferior materials often attain
to such perfection in compact sewing, as to render the use of pitch
unnecessary for water-proof purposes. Such skill is rarely attained
by the white man, and the art of making a water-proof canoe, even
out of a single piece of bark, is by no means an easy task without
the aid of tar or pitch.
[Page 264]
For the trapper we strongly recommend the birch "bark." With the
above directions we are sure no one could go astray, and we are
equally sure that a canoe made as we describe, would present advantages
of lightness and portability which no other style of boat would
possess. For temporary purposes, canoes can be made from basswood,
hemlock, or spruce bark; but they are at best, very rude and clumsy
in comparison with the birch bark. They are generally made after
the principles of the above described; either sewing or nailing
the edges of the bark together, and smearing every joint and seam
profusely with pitch, and adding gunwales, lining, and ribs.
A LIGHT HOME-MADE BOAT.
The following gives an easy method of making a light and serviceable
bateau, which any boy, with moderate ingenuity or skill, could
easily construct:--
Select two boards, about three-quarters of an inch in thickness,
eighteen or twenty inches in width, and twelve feet in length,
which we will consider the required length of the boat. These boards
should be well seasoned, and free from knots, and at least one of
the sides should be straight.
Next, with the aid of a draw-shave, proceed to shape the ends of
one of the boards, as seen on our diagram, (_e_) representing the
forward, (_g_) the stern. The curve of the bow should commence at
about four feet from the end, and take a rounded slope upward,
leaving about ten inches of width at the end of the board (_e_).
The stern should be cut at the angle shown at (_g_), commencing
at about two and a half feet from the extremity of the board and
continuing upward to about ten inches from the upper edge. The
board thus shaped should now be laid evenly on the other, and the
outline of the cut portions carefully scratched upon it, after
which the second board should be cut in a similar manner as the
first, so as to form an exact duplicate.
This being accomplished, the two should be laid evenly, one over
the other, and the exact center of their long edges ascertained.
Marking off about five inches on each side of this centre on both
boards.
[Illustration]
Next procure another board about ten inches in width, three feet
in length, and perfectly squared at the ends. Nail each end of
this piece securely and squarely in the space marked on each of
the long boards. Then turn the pieces carefully over and
[Page 265]
nail another board across the bottom, directly opposite the first.
We will now leave them and give our attention to the bow piece,
which is the next requisite. This is shown at (_a_), and consists
of a solid piece of oak, or other hard wood, well seasoned, and
hewn out in the arrow shape, indicated in our illustration. It
should first be cut three-cornered, the inside face being about
eight inches, and the other two ten inches. Its length should be
about eleven inches, and its under side should be sloped off on a
line with the under curve of the bows. At about five inches from
the inner face, and on each side, a piece should be sawn out, one
inch in thickness, thus leaving on each side a notch which will
exactly receive the side-boards of the boat, as seen at (_a_).
[Illustration]
The piece being thus ready, the bow ends of the boards should be
drawn together, fitted in the notches and securely spiked with
large nails. A bow piece of this kind adds greatly to the strength
of a boat, and will stand much rough usage. The board for the stem
should next be prepared. This should be ten inches in width and two
feet in length, and should be securely nailed between the ends of the
boards at the stem, as shown at (_g_), being afterwards overlapped
on the top by a board of similar size, as our illustration shows,
at (_c_). The bottom of the boat is now easily made by nailing
boards crosswise, sawing off the projecting ends close to the curve
of the side-boards. After the pieces are all nailed in place, the
seams and crevices should be caulked with hemp, using a blunt chisel,
or hard wooden wedge, and a mallet. The seats should now be put
in, as these are not only a matter of comfort, but of necessity,
acting as braces to the sides of the boat. They should be two in
number, one being placed three feet from the stern and the other
one foot beyond the brace board originally nailed across the top
of the boat. The seats should be cut at the ends in a curve
corresponding to the part of the boat in which they are placed,
and should be situated about a foot from the bottom of the boat,
their ends resting on short boards beneath them against the sides
of the boat. These are indicated by the dotted lines (_h h_) in
[Page 266]
the diagram. When thus resting they should be securely fastened in
place by strong screws, driven through the sides of the boat into
their ends (_f f_), allowing some one to sit on the seat meanwhile
to keep it in place. Small cleats should now be tacked to the bottom
of the boat, beneath the seat and underneath the seat itself, in
order to keep the props in place; after which the original brace
board across the top of the boat may be knocked off and the bateau
is complete and ready for service. A boat thus made is quite comely
in shape, and may be painted to suit the fancy. Should a rudder
be required, the broad board at the stern offers a good place of
attachment, and oar-locks may be adjusted at the proper places.
These may consist of a pair of cleats attached to the inside of
the boat, as seen in the illustration. In case it may be found
difficult to obtain the large single boards for the sides of the
boat, two or more narrow ones will answer the purpose, although
not as perfectly. In this case they should first be firmly attached
together by cleats, securely screwed to the inside. When first put
on the water the boat will probably leak in places, but if left
to soak for a few hours the wood will generally swell sufficiently
to completely close the crevices. If, however, the leak should
continue, that particular part of the boat should be re-caulked
and smeared with pitch. This latter substance is of great value
to the trapper, not only in boat building but in the construction
of his shanties and in other various ways. It will most effectually
stop almost any leak in a canoe or boat, and of course should always
be applied hot.
[Page 267]
THE SCOW.
The bateau we have above described is built so as to allow for
considerable speed in the water, either in rowing or sculling;
but where this speed is not especially desired the pointed bows
may be dispensed with, and the sides of the boat made perfectly
straight. In this case the bottom takes equal slopes at the ends,
and both bow and stern are of the same width, and an ordinary
flat-bottomed boat with parallel sides is the result. In many cases
a scow of this kind answers every purpose, and is certainly much
more easily made.
We have thus described a few of the most common instances of boats
used by trappers, and with our full description and illustrations
no one can go astray. A boat of some kind is almost an indispensable
requisite to the trapper, and anyone of the foregoing will be found
sufficient for all ordinary purposes.
A paddle may be used, and in shallow or muddy water a pusher or
mud-stick will be found useful. This should consist of a pole seven
or eight feet in length, supplied at the ends with an attachment of
the shape of the letter U. This may be constructed in two pieces,
firmly screwed to opposite sides of the end of the pole, and so
formed as to present a curved crotch. Such a stick will be found
very useful for pushing through weeds and muddy places. A simple
pole trimmed so as to leave a crotch at the end will also answer
the purpose very well.
SNOW-SHOES.
These commodities are almost indispensable to the trapper where
he pursues his vocation in the winter time, during the prevalence
of deep snows. When properly made they permit the wearer to walk
over the surface of the snow with perfect ease; where, without
them, travel would be extremely difficult if not impossible.
In the regions of perpetual snow, and also in Canada and neighboring
districts, snow-shoes are very commonly worn. In the latter localities
the "snow-shoe race" forms one of the favorite sports of the season,
and young and old alike join in its mysteries. Like riding on the
velocipede, walking on snow-shoes looks "easy enough," but we notice
that a few somersaults are usually a convincing argument that the art
is not as simple as it appears. The first experience on snow-shoes
[Page 268]
is apt to be at least undignifying, if not discouraging, and in order
to get used to the strange capers and eccentricities of an ordinarily
well-behaved snow shoe, it requires considerable patience and practice.
There is no telling where, in an unguarded moment, they will land
you, and they seem to take especial delight in stepping on each
other and turning their wearer upside down. The principal secret
of success (and one may as well know it at the start, as to learn
it at the expense of a pint of snow down his back) consists in
taking steps sufficiently long to bring the widest portion of the
stepping shoe beyond that of the other, keeping the feet rather
far apart and stepping pretty high. By observing these precautions,
and trusting in Providence, much embarrassment may be saved, and
an hour's effort will thoroughly tame the unruly appendages, which
at best do not permit of much grace or elegance of gait.
To the moose hunter snow-shoes are often an absolute necessity,
and trapping in many cases would be impossible without them. They
are thus brought fully within the scope of our volume, and we give
a few simple directions for their manufacture. Our illustration
gives the correct shape of the shoe. The framework should consist
of a strip of ash, hickory or some other elastic wood, bent into
the form indicated and wound around the ends with twine or strips
of hide. The length of the piece should be about six feet, more
or less, in proportion to the size of the individual who proposes
to wear the shoe. If the bending should prove difficult it may
be rendered an easy matter by the application of boiling water.
Across the front part two strips of stout leather, or other tough
hide, are then fastened, and these further secured together by three
or four bands on each side of the middle, as our drawing shows.
In the original Indian snow-shoe, from which our drawing was made,
the net work was constructed from strips of moose hide, which were
interlaced much after the manner of an ordinary cane-seated chair.
Strips of leather, deer skin, or even split cane, above alluded to,
may also be used, and the lacing may be either as our illustration
represents, or in the simpler rectangular woof seen in ordinary
cloth.
In order to attach the interlacing to the bow the latter should be
wound with wide strips of cane, if it can be procured, or otherwise
with strips of tough skin. The loops thus formed offer a continuous
security, and the whole interior, with the exception of the space
at the front between the cross pieces, should be neatly filled
with the next work. It is well to run the first lines
[Page 269]
across the shoe, from side to side, passing through the windings
of the bow. Across them, in the form of the letter X, the two other
cords should be interlaced, after the manner shown in the cut.
This forms a secure and not very complicated network, and is the
style usually adopted by the Indian makers.
[Illustration]
There is another mode of attaching the lace-work to the bow which
is also commonly employed, and consists in a series of holes bored
at regular intervals through the wood. The winding is thus dispensed
with, but the bow is sometimes weakened by the operation, and we are
inclined to recommend the former method in preference. In attaching
the shoe, the ball of the foot should be set on the second cross
piece, and there secured by a strip of hide, which should be first
adjusted as seen in the engraving, being afterward tied over the
foot and then behind the ankle. Snow-shoes are made in other ways,
but we believe that the typical Indian snow-shoe above described
is the best.
THE TOBOGGAN OR INDIAN SLEDGE.
For winter traffic over deep snows there is no better sled in the
world than the Indian toboggan. To the trapper during a winter
campaign it is often an indispensable convenience, and without
it the Indian hunters of the North would find great difficulty in
getting their furs to market. All through the winter season the
various trading posts of Canada are constantly visited by numbers
of Indian trappers, many of whom have travelled hundreds of miles
on their snow-shoes with their heavily laden toboggans. Arrived at
[Page 270]
their market they sell or trade their stock of furs, and likewise
dispose of their toboggans, reserving only their snow-shoes to aid
them in their long tramp homewards.
[Illustration]
In Canada and northward the toboggan is in very extensive use, both
for purposes of traffic and amusement. It is quite commonly met
with in the streets of various Canadian cities, and is especially
appreciated by the youthful population, who are fond of coasting
over the crust of snow. For this purpose there is no other sled
like it, and a toboggan of the size we shall describe will easily
accommodate two or three boys, and will glide over a crust of snow
with great ease and rapidity. To the trapper it is especially valuable
for all purposes of transportation. The flat bottom rests upon
the surface of the snow, and the weight being thus distributed
a load of two or three hundred pounds will often make but little
impression and can be drawn with marvellous ease. Our illustration
gives a very clear idea of the sled, and it can be made in the
following way: the first requisite is a board about eight feet
in length and sixteen or more inches in width. Such a board may
be procured at any saw mill. Oak is the best wood for the purpose,
although hickory, basswood or ash will do excellently. It should
be planed or sawed to a thickness of about a third of an inch,
and should be free from knots. If a single board of the required
width is not easily found, two boards may be used, and secured
side by side by three cleats, one at each end and the other in
the middle, using wrought nails and clinching them deeply into the
board on the under side. The single board is much to be preferred,
if it can be had. The next requisites are seven or eight wooden
cross-pieces of a length equivalent to the width of the board.
Four old broom-sticks, cut in the required lengths, will answer
[Page 271]
this purpose perfectly, and if these are not at hand other sticks
of similar dimensions should be used. Two side pieces are next
needed. These should be about five feet in length, and in thickness
exactly similar to the cross pieces. Next procure a few pairs of
leather shoe-strings or some strips of tough calf skin. With these
in readiness we may now commence the work of putting the parts
together. Begin by laying the cross pieces at equal distances along
the board; across these and near their ends lay the two side pieces,
as seen in the illustration. By the aid of a gimlet or awl, four
holes should now be made through the board, beneath the end of each
cross piece, and also directly under the side piece. It is well to
mark with a pencil, the various points for the holes, after which
the sticks can be removed and the work much more easily performed.
The four holes should be about an inch apart, or so disposed as to
mark the four corners of a square inch. It is also necessary to
make other holes along the length of the cross pieces, as seen
in the illustration. The line on these can also be marked with
the pencil across the board, and the holes made afterwards. These
should also be an inch apart, and only two in number at each point,
one on each side of the stick. When all the holes are made the
board should be turned over, in order to complete preparations
on the other side. The object of these various holes is for the
passage of the leather shoe-strings for the purpose of securing
the cross pieces firmly to the board. In order to prevent these
loops from wearing off on the under side, small grooves should next
be made connecting the holes beneath, thus allowing the leather
string to sink into the wood, where it is securely protected from
injury. A narrow chisel is the best tool for this purpose, the making
of the grooves being much more easily and perfectly accomplished
with this than with the jack-knife. When the under side is thus
finished the board may be turned over and the cross pieces and
sides again arranged in place as already described. Secure the
pieces to the board by the leather strings through the various
holes, always knotting on the upper surface, and taking care that
the knots are firmly tied. The ends of all the cross pieces will
require a double cross stitch through the four holes beneath, in
order to secure the side pieces as well. This is plainly shown in
the small diagram (_a_). The front end of each side piece underneath
should now be sharpened to a point, to allow for the bend at the
front of the toboggan. The cross piece at this end should be secured
to the under side of the board, so that as it bends over it will
appear on the upper edge, as our illustration shows. The board should
[Page 272]
next be bent with a graceful curve, and thus held in position by a
rope or strip of leather at each extremity of the end cross piece and
attached to the ends of the third cross piece, as seen in the engraving.
If the bending is difficult and there is danger of breaking the board,
the application of boiling water will render it pliable. The draw
strings should then be attached to the ends of the second cross piece,
and our toboggan is now complete.
It may now be laden with two or three hundred pounds of merchandize
and will be found to draw over the surface of the snow with perfect
ease. For coasting over the crust there is nothing like it. Such a
toboggan as we have described will easily accommodate three boys,
the one at the stern being provided with a sharp stick for steering,
and the front occupant holding firmly to the draw strings. The
toboggan is easily made, and will do good service either for traffic
or sport.
CURING SKINS.
This department of the trapper's art is one of the most important
and necessary, as affecting pecuniary profits. The value of a skin
in the fur market depends entirely upon the care with which it
is taken from the animal and afterward prepared, and without a
knowledge on this subject the young trapper will in vain seek for
high prices for his furs. Large quantities of valuable skins are
sent to our markets annually by inexperienced amateur trappers,
and in many cases rare and beautiful furs have been almost spoiled
by want of care in skinning and curing. The rules are simple and
easily followed, a little care being all that is necessary to insure
most perfect success. In every case the skin should be removed
shortly after death, or at least before it has become tainted with
decay. Great pains should be taken in skinning. Avoid the adherence
of flesh or fat to the skin, and guard against cutting through the
hide, as a pierced skin is much injured in value. The parts about
the eyes, legs and ears should be carefully removed. The various
methods of skinning are described in our section on trapping, and
in all cases the furs should be allowed to dry in a cool, airy
place, free from the rays of the sun or the heat of a fire, and
protected from rain.
Astringent preparations of various kinds are used by many trappers,
but they are by no means necessary. The most common dressing consists
of equal parts of rock salt and alum dissolved in water. Into this
a sufficient amount of coarse flour or wheat bran is stirred to give
[Page 273]
the mixture the consistency of batter, after which it is spread
thickly over the skin and allowed to dry.
It is afterwards scraped off, and in some cases a second application
is made. This preparation is much used in dressing beaver, otter,
mink and muskrat skins, but as many of our most successful and
experienced trappers do without it, we fail to see the advantage of
using it, as it is only an extra trouble. The simplest and surest
way is to stretch the skin and to submit it to a gradual process
of natural drying without any artificial heat or application of
astringents to hasten the result.
A very common mode of stretching skins consists in tacking them to
a board, with the fur inwards, and allowing them to dry as already
described.
This method does very well for small skins, but for general purposes
the "stretchers" are the only means by which a pelt may be properly
cured and prepared.
STRETCHERS.
The board stretcher is the simplest form and is in most common use
among trappers for the smaller animals. These stretchers are of
two kinds, the plain and the wedged. The plain stretcher consists
of a piece of board a quarter of an inch in thickness, about eighteen
inches long and six inches in width. One end of this board is rounded
off, as seen in our illustration, and the sides should also be
whittled and smoothed to a blunt edge.
[Illustration]
The board stretchers are used only for those skins which are taken
off whole, that is, as described in the chapter on the otter. The
skin should be drawn tightly over the blunt end of the board, and
its edges either caught in notches cut in the edges of the square
end or secured by a few tacks. This stretcher is particularly
[Page 274]
adapted to the skins of muskrats, minks and animals of a like size.
They are known in New England as "shingle stretchers," and are much
to be recommended on account of their lightness and the ease with
which they can be made and carried.
The wedge stretcher is rather more elaborate than the foregoing,
and is said to be an improvement.
[Illustration]
The first requisite is a board of about three-eighths of an inch in
thickness, two feet or more in length, and three and a half inches
at one end tapering to the width of two inches at the other. This
end should now be rounded, and the edges of the board whittled off
to a blunt edge, as already described in the foregoing, commencing
near the centre of the board, and thinning to the edge, and finishing
with the notches at the square end. Now, by the aid of a rip-saw,
sever the board through the middle lengthwise.
The wedge is the next thing to be constructed, and should consist
of a piece of wood the thickness of the centre of the board and
of the same length, tapering from an inch in width at one end to
half an inch at the other.
To use the stretcher the two boards are inserted into the skin,
(the latter with the fur side inward). The wedge is then inserted
between the large ends of the boards and driven in sufficiently to
stretch the pelt to its full capacity, securing it in the notches
by slight cuts in the hide, or by a tack or two at the edge. It
should then he hung in a cool, airy place, and the pelt left to
"season."
The bow stretcher is another contrivance very commonly used for
small skins like the foregoing. When this is used the pelt should
be skinned as described on page 185, the initial cut commencing
at the lower jaw and extending down between the fore legs, all
the feet being previously cut off. The bow may consist of a switch
of any elastic wood such as hickory iron wood, elm or birch. It
should be about three or more feet in length, and as large as a
man's thumb at the butt end. By bending it in the shape of the
letter U it may easily be inserted in the skin, the latter being
[Page 275]
fastened by catching the lip on each side into a sliver notch cut on
each end of the bow, as our illustration indicates.
[Illustration]
For large animals, such as the deer, bear, beaver, the hoop stretcher
is generally employed.
THE HOOP STRETCHER.
This consists of a hoop made from one or more flexible switches
tied together so as to form a circle. In order to be adapted to
this mode of stretching, the skin should be flat, _i. e._ taken
off as described on page 172, the initial cut extending from the
lower jaw to the vent. The size of the hoop required depends upon
the dimensions of the skin. Lay the latter upon some flat surface
and so gauge the hoop as that it shall surround the pelt on all
sides; after which the latter should be secured or laced to the
hoop with twine at the edges. All loose parts should be drawn up,
and the skin should everywhere be stretched like a drum head. When
this is accomplished it is the custom with many trappers to apply
the preparation described on page 273, particularly where the skin
is thick and fatty. But we are rather disposed to discourage the
use of any preparation whatever, in any case, as they are by no
means necessary.
In using the board stretchers the fur should always be on the inside,
and when the hoop or bow is used it should be placed in such a
position, that the air may circulate freely on both sides of the
skin, which should not be removed until thoroughly dry.
[Page 276]
TANNING SKINS.
In case some of our readers might desire to tan fur skins for their
own domestic purposes, the subjoined directions will be found to be
reliable, and for all ordinary requirements, sufficiently adequate.
For tanning with the hair on, the skin should first be cleaned,
every particle of loose fat or flesh, being removed, and the useless
parts cut away. When this is done, it should be soaked for an hour
or two in warm water. The following mixture should then be prepared:
Take equal parts of borax, saltpetre, and sulphate of soda, and
with them mix water sufficient to produce the consistency of thin
batter.
This preparation should be painted thickly on the flesh side of
the skin, after which these sides should be doubled together and
the pelt left in an airy place.
A second mixture should next be prepared. This should consist of
two parts sal soda; three parts borax; four parts castile or other
hard soap: all to be melted together over a slow fire. At the end
of twenty-four hours, after the application of the first mixture,
the second should be applied in a similar manner, and the fur again
folded and left for the same length of time. Next, make a mixture
equal parts of salt and alum, dissolved in warm water and thickened
with coarse flour to the consistency of thin paste. Spread this thickly
over the skin and allow it to dry, after which it should be scraped
off with the bowl of a spoon. The skin should be tightly stretched
during the operation, in order to prevent too great shrinkage. A
single application of the last-named dressing, is generally sufficient
for small skins; but a second or third treatment may be resorted
to if required, to make the skin soft and pliable, after which it
should be finished off with sand-paper and pumice stone. A skin
may be thus dressed as soft as velvet, and the alum and salt will
set the hair securely.
The above directions are excellent, for all general purposes, but
we subjoin, in addition, a few other valuable hints and specific
recipes in common use. Every trapper has his own peculiar hobby
in regard to his tanning process, and the recipes are various and
extensive. The above is one of the most reliable for general use.
A common mode of tanning mink and muskrat skins is given in the
following:--
TO TAN MINK AND MUSKRAT SKINS.
Before tanning, the skin should always be thoroughly cleansed
[Page 277]
in warm water, and all fat and superfluous flesh removed. It should
then be immersed in a solution made of the following ingredients:
Five gallons of cold soft water; five quarts wheat bran; one gill
of salt; and one ounce of sulphuric acid. Allow the skins to soak in
the liquid for four or five hours. If the hides have been previously
salted, the salt should be excluded from the mixed solution. The
skins are now ready for the tanning liquor, which is made in the
following way: into five gallons of warm, soft water, stir one peck
of wheat bran and allow the mixture to stand in a warm room until
fermentation takes place. Then add three pints of salt, and stir until
it is thoroughly dissolved. A pint of sulphuric acid should then be
poured in gradually, after which the liquor is ready. Immerse the
skins and allow them to soak for three or four hours. The process
of "fleshing" is then to be resorted to. This consists in laying the
skin, fur side down, over some smooth beam, and working over the
flesh side with a blunt fleshing tool. An old chopping knife, or
tin candlestick, forms an excellent substitute for the ordinary
fleshing knife, and the process of rubbing should be continued
until the skin becomes dry, after which it will be found to be
soft and pliable. The skin of the muskrat is quite tender, and the
fleshing should be carefully performed.
HOW TO TAN THE SKINS OF BEAVER, OTTER, RACCOON, AND MARTEN.
These should be stretched on a board and smeared with a mixture
composed of three ounces each, of salt and alum; three gills of
water, and one drachm of sulphuric acid. This should be thickened
with wheat bran or flour, and should be allowed to dry on the skin,
after which it should be scraped off with a spoon. Next, take the
skin from the board, roll it with the fur inside, and draw it quickly
backward and forward, over a smooth peg, or through an iron ring.
The skin should then be unfolded and rolled again the opposite
way, and the operation repeated until the pelt is quite soft and
flexible. This is a good way of softening all kinds of skins, and
the above preparation will be found excellent for all ordinary
purposes. The muskrat skin may be treated in the same manner as
the above, if desired, and the process directed on the muskrat
skin may also be applied to the pelts of the other animals.
To remove the fur for a simple tanned skin, the hide should be
immersed in a liquid composed of--soft water, five gallons; slaked
lime, four quarts; and wood ashes, four quarts. Allow
[Page 278]
the skin to soak for a couple of days, after which the fur will
readily slip off.
Another method--take equal parts wood ashes and slaked lime, and
add water to the consistency of batter. Spread this over the inside
of the skin, roll it up, and place it in a pail, covering it with
water. Here let it remain from one to five days, or until the hair
will shed easily, after which it should be finished with the fleshing
knife and velveted with sand paper.
OBSERVATIONS ON THE HISTORY OF FURS AND THE FUR TRADE.
In all cold climates, man has availed himself liberally of the
warm covering with which nature has clothed the animals around
him; but the wealth of the most favored nations has drawn to them
the most beautiful furs, in whatever part of the world they are
procured. Skins of animals were among the first materials used
for clothing. Before Adam and Eve were driven from the Garden of
Eden, they were furnished with coats of skins. The ancient Assyrians
used the soft skins of animals to cover the couches or the ground
in their tents, and the Israelites employed badger's skins and
ram's skins, as ornamental hangings for the Tabernacle. The ancient
heroes of the Greeks and Romans, are represented as being clothed
in skins. Æneas, wearing for an outer garment, that of the lion,
and Alcestes being formidably clad in that of the Libyan Bear.
Herodotus speaks of those living near the Caspian Sea wearing seal
skins, and Cæsar mentions that the skin of the reindeer formed in
part the clothing of the Germans. In the early period, furs appear
to have constituted the entire riches of the Northern countries,
and they were almost the only exports. Taxes were paid on them,
and they were the medium of exchange. So it was also in our own
Western territories in the latter part of the last century, and is
to the present day, to a great extent, among the Indians. In the
eleventh century, furs had become fashionable throughout Europe,
and the art of dyeing them, was practiced in the twelfth. In the
history of the Crusades, frequent mention is made of the magnificent
displays by the European Princes, of their dresses of costly furs,
before the Court at Constantinople. But Richard I. of England, and
Philip II. of France, in order to check the growing extravagance
in their use, resolved that the choicer furs, ermine and sable
amongst the number, should be omitted from their kingly wardrobes.
Louis IX. followed their example in the next century, but not
[Page 279]
until his extravagance had grown to such a pitch, that _seven hundred
and forty-six_ ermines were required for the _lining_ of one of his
_surcoats_. In the times, the use of the choicer furs, as those
of the sable, ermine, gris, and Hungarian squirrel, was restricted
to the royal families and the nobility, to whom they served as
distinctive marks and badges of rank. These privileged persons
applied them lavishly to their own use, and the fashion extended
to the princes of other less civilized nations. Their royal use
soon extended to Tartary, and the tents of the Khan were bedecked
with the most rich and costly furs. In the following century, furs
were commonly worn in England until their use was prohibited by
Edward III., to all persons whose purse would not warrant a yearly
expenditure of £100.
The early fur trade of Western Europe, was conducted through the
merchants on the south coast of the Baltic, who received goods from
the ports of Livonia. In the sixteenth century, a direct trade was
opened between the English and Russians; and a company of the former,
protected by the Czar, established trading posts on the White Sea,
and a warehouse at Moscow, whence they sent trading parties to
Persia and the countries on the Caspian Sea. The Czar sent rich
presents of beautiful furs, to Queen Mary and Queen Elizabeth;
but the latter prohibited the wearing of any but native furs, and
the trade soon declined and was abandoned. In the 17th century,
Siberia was conquered by the Russians, and its tribute was paid
in furs. Large quantities were also furnished to China, but the
choicest kinds--the precious ermine, the brilliant, fiery foxes, and
the best sables, were taken to Moscow, for the use of the princes
and nobles of Russia, Turkey, and Persia.
In our own country, the early settlers of the Northern provinces,
soon learned the value of the furs of the numerous animals which
peopled the extensive rivers, lakes, and forests of these vast
territories. They collected the skins in abundance, and found an
increasing demand for them, with every new arrival of immigrants
from the mother country. Trinkets, liquors, and other articles
sought for by the native tribes, were shipped to Quebec, and from
thence up the St. Lawrence to Montreal, which soon became the great
trading post of the country. The various tribes of Indians were
stimulated by trifling compensation, to pursue their only congenial
and peaceful occupation; and the French settlers, readily assimilating
to the Indian habits, became themselves expert hunters, trappers,
and explorers.
The business prospered, and the English soon became interested and
secured a share of the valuable trade. Many
[Page 280]
wealthy and influential parties, connected with the government
of Great Britain,--Prince Rupert and Lord Ashley, among the
number--became deeply interested in this source of revenue; and
after a successful enterprise, they obtained from Charles II., a
charter of incorporation, giving to them full possession of the
territory within the entrance of Hudson's Straits, not already granted
to other subjects, or possessed by those of any other Christian
prince or State. In this charter was included the monopoly, of all
trade in these regions, and thus we see the origin of the Great
Hudson's Bay Company, which is to-day, one of the largest organizations
of its kind on the globe. The territory they claimed, extended
from Hudson's Bay, west to the Pacific, and north to the Arctic
Ocean, excepting that occupied by the French and Russians. They
soon formed settlements upon the various rivers which empty into
Hudson's Bay, and carried on their operations with immense vigor
and success. They met with much opposition and open hostility from
the French, and were subjected to vast expenses and losses, but in
spite of all, they continued to prosper. Their forts or factories
were extended further into the interior of British America, and
their power was supreme throughout the country, and in a great
measure over the Indians, whom they employed to collect their skins.
In the course of time, the French Canadians organized themselves
into a united band, under the name of the North West Company, and
established their headquarters at Montreal. Their operations were
carried on with great energy and profit, and many factories were
built in the western portion of the Province. The company thus soon
became a formidable competitor with the Hudson's Bay Company and
for a period of two years, an actual state of war existed between
them. This condition of affairs finally terminated in a consolidation
of the two organizations, under the name of the Hudson's Bay Company,
the privileges of which extended over all the territory formerly
occupied by both.
Thus, we have the history of the famous Hudson's Bay Company, from
its origin to its perfect organization. It is a most stupendous
concern, and its annual shipment of furs, is something amazing.
Their great sales take place in the month of March, in order to
be completed before Easter; and again in September, every year
at London, and are attended by purchasers from nearly all parts
of the world. Leipsic, the famous fur mart of Germany, is also
the scene of a great annual fair, for the sale of skins.
The importance of the fur trade in this country, led to the
[Page 281]
early settlement of the Western territories of the United States;
and many a frontier city, like St. Paul, has been built up by the
enterprise of the trapper. Mackinaw and Montreal owe much of their
growth to the traffic of the fur trade; and many a kingly fortune--John
Jacob Astor's, for instance--has been founded on peltry.
Besides the above fur sales in London a moderate portion of those
annually collected in the United States are retained for use, amounting
to about 150,000 mink and 750,000 muskrat skins, besides a number
of other furs which are manufactured and worn.
The annual yield of raw furs throughout the whole world is estimated
at over twenty millions of dollars in value; and when we include
the manufactured articles therefrom, the amount will swell to a
hundred millions or over. This will serve to give some idea of
the immensity and value of the business.
American dealers divide our native furs into two classes, viz.,
_home_ and _shipping_ furs; the former being chiefly utilized in
our own country, while the latter are exported to all parts of
the world. New York City is the great fur mart and depot for the
shipping trade in this country, and the annual value of its exports,
in this one branch of trade is enormous.
The principal shipping furs are the silver, red and cross Fox, Wild
Cat, Raccoon, Fisher, Muskrat and Skunk.
Among the home furs are the Marten, Mink, Opossum, Wolf and Muskrat,
the latter being extensively used both here and abroad.
In the following chapter will be found more detailed notes on the
leading American furs, including their various uses and the different
countries for which they are the especial staples.
In order to give the reader some idea of the variety and magnitude
of the yield of furs from our own country, we annex a table (p.
282) showing the sales of the Hudson's Bay Company, at London,
in the year 1873.
MARKET VALUE OF FUR SKINS.
Below will be found an authentic table of the comparative values
of the various American furs at the present date of publication.
The quotations are those of one of our largest fur dealers, as
published in "THE HAT, CAP AND FUR TRADE REVIEW," the leading journal
of the trade in America. Of course these values are constantly
varying--keeping pace with the eccentricities of fashion and the
demands of the fur trade; but
[Page 282]
the table will serve at least to gauge the relative values, as
between the two extremes of common and scarce furs. The fur market
is a great deal like the stock market. It is constantly fluctuating,
and a fur which is to-day among the novelties, may next year find
itself on the low priced list. The demand for furs of any kind
is nearly always governed by fashion, and of course the value is
estimated on the demand. If the convention of fur dealers should
decide to usher in _Muskrat fur_ as the leading and most fashionable
article in that line, the fashion would create the demand, the
demand would be in turn supplied by the trappers throughout the
country, and in proportion as the Muskrat skins became scarce,
so their value would increase. In this way a skin which may be
worth fifty cents at one time may soon acquire a value of twenty
times that amount. The comparative value of skins is, therefore,
constantly varying more or less; but the annexed table (page 283)
will be found useful for general reference, and for approximate
figures, will probably answer every purpose for some time to come.
==========================================================================
| No. of | No. of | | |Estimated
| Skins. | Skins. | Total | Price according to | average
KINDS. | March | Sept. | No. | quality. |price per
| Sale. | Sale. | | | skin.
------------|---------|---------|---------|-------------------------------
| | | | | £ s. d.
Badger | 2,700 | | 2,700 | 1s. to 7s. | 1 06
Bear | 5,217 | 2,794 | 8,011 | 5s. to £8 10s. | 5 0 00
Beaver | 111,993 | 37,052 | 149,045 | 4S. 3d. to 38s. 6d. | 1 00 00
Fisher | 2,843 | 779 | 3,622 | 8s. to £3 5s. | 2 10 00
Fox, Blue | 90 | | 90 | 18s. to £4. | 2 10 00
" Cross | 1,818 | 471 | 2,289 | 5s. to £4. | 1 10 00
" Kitt | 6,930 | | 6,930 | 2s. 8d. to 28s. 10d.| 3 00
" Red | 6,914 | 1,383 | 8,297 | 4s. 6d. to 17s. | 10 00
" Silver | 540 | 148 | 688 | £3 10s. to £21. | 10 00 00
" White | 7,312 | | 7,312 | 2s. to 14s. 9d. | 7 00
Lynx | 2,468 | 1,652 | 4,120 | 9s. 6d. to £1 14s. | 18 00
Marten | 47,878 | 18,955 | 66,833 | 10s. to £3 19s. | 1 10 00
Mink | 31,802 | 12,896 | 44,698 | 4s. to £1 8s. 6d. | 15 00
Muskrat | 651,498 | 116,488 | 767,896 | 3d. to 16d. | 00 8
Otter | 8,571 | 2,681 | 11,252 | 14s. to £3 18s. | 2 10 00
" Sea | | 98 | 98 | £4 10s. to £32. | 15 00 00
Rabbit | 10,029 | | 10,029 | 3d. to 4d. | 00 3
Raccoon | | 3,582 | 3,582 | 1s. to 3s. 3d. | 2 6
Skunk | 1,691 | | 1,691 | 2s. to 7s. | 4 00
Wolf | 6,216 | 188 | 6,404 | 6s. to £2 15s. | 15 00
Wolverine | 1,770 | 320 | 2,090 | 8s. to £1 1s. | 15 00
==========================================================================
[Page 283]
AMERICAN FUR SKINS--TABLE OF VALUES.[*]
==========================================================================
| Prime. |Seconds.| Thirds.|Fourths.
--------------------------------------|--------|--------|--------|--------
Badger | $1.00 | $0.50 | $0.10 | $
Bear, Black | 18.00 | 9.00 | 1.00 |
" Cub | 10.00 | 5.00 | 1.00 |
" Brown | 7.00 | 4.00 | 1.00 |
Beaver, California per lb. | 1.25 | 75 | 50 |
" Southern | 1.00 | 75 | 40 |
" Upper Missouri | 1.75 | 1.50 | 50 |
" Lake Supr. and Canada. | 2.50 | 1.75 | 75 |
Cat, Wild | 40 | 10 | |
" House | 15 | 10 | |
Deer, Florida per lb. | 20 | | |
" Missouri | 20 | | |
Elk and Moose per lb. | 35 | 25 | |
Fisher, Southern | 7.00 | 5.00 | 1.00 |
" Eastern and Canada | 10.00 | 8.00 | 2.00 |
Fox, Silver | 100.00 | 25.00 | 1.00 |
" Cross | 3.00 | 1.50 | 1.00 |
" Blue | 15.00 | 5.00 | 1.00 |
" White | 3.00 | 1.50 | |
" Red | 1.75 | 1.00 | 75 | 25
" Gray | 3.00 | 1.50 | 50 | 25
" Kitt | 50 | 25 | |
Lynx, Minnesota | 2.50 | 1.00 | |
" Canada | 4.00 | 2.00 | |
Marten, Dark | 10.00 | 6.00 | 2.00 |
" Small Pale | 2.00 | 1.00 | 50 |
Mink, Southern | 1.00 | 50 | 25 | 10
" Western | 1.25 | 1.00 | 50 | 10
" Middle States | 2.00 | 1.25 | 50 | 10
" Minnesota | 2.50 | 1.50 | 75 | 20
" New England | 3.50 | 1.75 | 1.00 | 20
" Quebec and Halifax | 4.00 | 2.00 | 1.00 | 20
Muskrat, Southern | 28 | 25 | 15 | 5
" Western | 30 | 28 | 18 | 6
" Northern | 32 | 30 | 20 | 8
" Eastern | 35 | 30 | 22 | 10
Opossum, Ohio | 30 | 20 | 10 |
" Southern | 20 | 10 | |
Otter, Southern | 5.00 | 3.00 | 2.00 | 50
" Northern | 10.00 | 6.00 | 2.00 | 50
Rabbit | 3 | | |
Raccoon, Southern | 50 | 30 | 15 | 5
" Western | 1.00 | 50 | 20 | 5
" Michigan | 1.25 | 80 | 30 | 5
Seal, Hair | 60 | | |
" Fur | 10.00 | | |
Skunk, Black Cased | 1.00 | 60 | 40 | 10
" Half Stripe | 60 | 50 | 25 | 10
" White | 20 | 10 | |
Wolf, Timber | 3.00 | 1.50 | |
" Prairie | 1.00 | 75 | |
Wolverine | 5.00 | 2.00 | |
==========================================================================
[Footnote *: From the "Hat Cap and Fur Trade Review."]
[Page 284]
Notwithstanding all these advertised prices, the young trapper
often experiences great difficulty in a profitable disposal of his
furs. Like every other business, the fur trade runs in its regular
grooves, and the average furrier will often pay an experienced
professional five dollars for a skin for which he would not offer
a _dollar_ to an amateur. This certainly seems discouraging, but
the knowledge of the fact is calculated to prevent _greater_
discouragement.
We often see fancy prices advertised by fur dealers for first-class
skins; but when the furs are sent, only a few are selected as "_prime_,"
the rest being rejected as worthless, or perhaps meeting with a
meagre offer far below the regular rates. In this way the dealers
have the opportunity of choice selection without incurring any
risk. Many a young trapper has been thus disappointed, and has
seen his small anticipated fortune dwindle down to very small
proportions.
The fur trade is supplied through regular professional channels;
and in giving our advice to the novice, we would recommend as the
most satisfactory and profitable plan that he should make his sales
to some local hunter or trapper, who has had experience with the fur
trade, and who is satisfied to pay a fair price for the various skins
with the probability of selling at an advance, and thus realizing
a profit.
In nearly every trapping locality such men are to be found, and
although the prices earned may be below the market rates, the amateur
takes none of the speculative risks of the business, and should
be willing to take lower prices on this account.
AMERICAN FUR SKINS--THEIR USES AT HOME AND ABROAD.
In the early history of fur apparel, its use was determined by
_climate_; to-day, and especially in this country, it is regulated
by the caprice of _fashion_. The mink for many years took the lead
in the list of fashionable furs, but has of late been superseded
by the introduction of the fur seal. The most choice and costly
of our American furs at the present day is the Silver Fox. When
highly dressed they are worth from 10 to 50 guineas each in the
European market. They are principally bought by the Russians and
Chinese.
The skins of the Red Fox are purchased by the Chinese, Greeks,
Persians, and other Oriental nations. They are made into linings
for robes, etc., and ornamented with the black fur of the paws
which is set on in spots or waves. The fur of the
[Page 285]
Beaver was formerly highly prized in the manufacture of hats and
yielded a large portion of the profits of the Fur Companies,
constituting the largest item in value among furs. Cheaper materials
have since been substituted in making hats, and the demand for
this purpose has been greatly reduced. By a new process the skin
is now prepared as a handsome fur for collars and gauntlets, and
its fine silky wool has been successfully woven. The soft, white
fur from the belly of the animal, is largely used in France for
bonnets.
Raccoon skins are the great staple for Russia and Germany, where,
on account of their durability and cheapness, they are in demand
for linings for coats, etc. Among the Bear skins, those of the
black and grizzly are extensively used for military caps, housings,
holsters, sleigh robes, etc.
The fur of the Lynx is soft, warm and light, and is commonly dyed
of a beautiful shining black. It is used for the facings and linings
of cloaks, chiefly in America.
The Fisher yields a dark and full fur which is largely used in
fashionable winter apparel.
The skin of the Marten, is richly dyed and utilized in choice furs
and trimmings.
The Mink, like the two foregoing, belongs to the same genus as
the Russian Sable, and its fur so much resembles the latter as to
be sometimes mistaken for it. It is one of fashion's furs, and the
hair of the tail is sometimes used in the manufacture of artist's
pencils.
The Muskrat produces the fur most worn by the masses, and is largely
exported into Germany, France and England. It is estimated that
over six millions of muskrat skins are annually taken in America,
and of that number one-half are used in Germany alone.
The skin of the Otter is at present classed among the leading
fashionable furs in this country. They are dyed of a deep purplish
black color, and are made into sacques, muffs, etc. It is also
used by the Russians, Greeks and Chinese. It is mostly an American
product, but is also procured to some extent in the British Isles
from a smaller variety of the species.
The skins of the Wolf are chiefly used for sleigh robes and such
purposes. The fur of the Rabbit is mainly employed in the manufacture
of felt, and is also utilized for lining and trimming. The business
of breeding rabbits for their fur has been introduced into the
United States, and large numbers have been successfully raised in
Danbury, Conn., for felting purposes connected with the manufacture
of hats.
[Page 286]
The fur of the Wolverine or Glutton, finds a market for the most
part in Germany, where it is used for trimmings and cloak linings.
The Skunk furnishes the fur known as Alaska Sable, which forms
one of our staple pelts, many thousands being annually exported
to Poland and the adjacent provinces.
The Badger yields a valuable and fashionable fur, which is also
extensively used in the manufacture of artist's brushes; a good
"badger blender" forming a valuable accessory to a painter's outfit.
Shaving brushes by the thousand are annually made from the variegated
hair of the badger.
The Opossum yields a fur in very common use among the masses, and
the skins of the domestic Cat are utilized to a considerable extent
in the manufacture of robes, mats, etc. The fur of the Puma and Wild
Cat are also employed in this form, and may often be seen handsomely
mounted and hanging on the backs of sleighs on our fashionable
thoroughfares. Among the small game the skins of Squirrels are used
for linings, and the soft, velvety fur of the Mole is manufactured
into light robes, and very fine hats, and in theatrical paraphernalia
is sometimes employed for artificial eyebrows.
Full descriptions of the color of the various furs will be found
in our lengthy illustrated chapter on our American animals.
[Illustration: THE END.]
[Page 289]
[Illustration: INDEX]
A
Adirondack experiences with mosquitoes, 256.
Advice to the Novice on the sale of Furs, 283.
Air-tight Jar, for butter, &c., 236.
Alaska Sable, 286.--See also Skunk.
Alcohol, its use and abuse, 257.
Alum--used in waterproofing, 249.
"Amateur Trapping," 225.
AMBER, OIL OF, used in the art of Trapping, 152.
AMERICAN FUR SKINS.--Table of values, 284.
Their uses at Home and Abroad, 284.
American Lion.--See Puma.
Amputation, self inflicted, as a means of escape with captured
animals, 144.
To prevent, 144, 145.
Ancient uses of Furs, 278.
ANISE, OIL OF.--
Its use in the art of trapping, 152.
As bait for fish, 240.
Annual yield of Furs throughout the world, 281.
Apparatus for stretching skins, 273.
Arrows, poisoned, 26.
Arrow Traps, 23, 25.
Artificial Eyebrows of Mole Fur, 286.
ART OF TRAPPING, 148.
ASSAFOETIDA.--
Its use by the Trapper, 151.
As scent bait for fish, 240.
ASTOR, JOHN JACOB, and the Fur Trade, 281.
Astringent Preparations, use of, in drying Skins, 273, 276.
B
BADGER, THE,--
Nature and habits of, 175.
Skinning the, 177.
Trapping the, 175.
Uses of Fur, 286.
Value of Fur, 284.
Bags, Waterproof, for food, 236.
Baiting the Steel Trap, 143.
Baits for fishing, 240.
Baits, scent, 149.
Bait, Trapping without, 148.
BARK SHANTY.--
Hints on, 266.
Details of construction, 245.
Bark-Stone.--See Castoreum.
Bark-Stone composition.--See Castoreum.
"Barque."--See Birch Bark Canoe.
Barrel Hoops used in canoe building, 264.
BARREL TRAPS, 125, 127, 133.
Basket for the shoulders, 234, 236.
Basswood-bark canoes, 264.
Bateaux, 264.
BAT FOWLING NET, 70.
Baking, recipe for, 253.
Bay Lynx.--See Wild Cat.
Beans as food, 235.
BEAR.--
Nature and habits of, 168, 227.
Trapping the, 168.
Traps for, 17, 29, 143.
Various species of, 168.
Directions for removing skin, 172.
Use of skin, 285.
Value of skin, 284.
"Bear Tamer," 137, 142.
"Bear Chasing," dangers of the sport, 170.
[Page 290]
Bear Grease, 171.
Bear Meat, to roast, 233.
" " to dry, 237.
BEAVER.--
Nature and habits of, 177.
Trapping the, 177.
Skinning the, 182.
Skin, to tan, 277.
Use of fur, 285.
Value of skin, 284.
BEDS AND BEDDING, 248.
Bed, spring, 248.
" hammock, swinging, 249.
Bed clothes, 249.
BIG HORN, the, 220.
As food, 220, 238.
Nature and habits of, 220.
Trapping the, 220.
BIRCH BARK CANOE, remarks on, 226.
Directions for making, 261.
Bird-Catching Net, 70.
BIRD LIME, 97.
Masticated Wheat used as, 99.
Recipe for making, 98.
Used in capture of Puma, 35.
Used for capture of Humming Bird, 99.
Used in making Fly-paper, 136.
Used with an Owl as decoy, 98.
With paper cone, as a Crow trap, 96.
BIRD TRAPS, 65.
" Box, 88, 90. 91.
BIRD WHISTLE, 72.
BISON.--See Buffalo.
Black Fly.--See "Punkey."
Blanket, woollen, 250.
Rubber, 236.
Use of, 250.
Block-tin, used for kettles, &c., 235.
Blossom, utilized as a trap, 99.
Blow-gun, used in the capture of Humming Bird, 99.
BOARD FLAP, the, 130.
BOARD STRETCHERS, 273.
BOATS, remarks on, 226.
Manufacture of, 259.
The dug-out, or log canoe, 259.
The birch-bark canoe, 261.
The bateau, 264.
The scow, 267.
The flat-bottomed boat, 267.
Boiled Mush, 232.
" to fry, 232.
Boiling water used in bending wood, 268, 272.
Book I. TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME, 17.
II. SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS, 39.
III. TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME, 65.
IV. MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS, 103.
V. HOUSEHOLD TRAPS, 125.
VI. STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING, 137.
VII. THE CAMPAIGN, 225.
VIII. THE TRAPPER'S MISCELLANY, 255.
Boots, hints on, 228.
Grease for, 228.
Bottle Lantern, 241.
" Match Safe, 234.
BOW STRETCHER, for skins, 274.
BOW Traps, 23, 25, 116.
BOWL TRAPS, 135, 136.
Box Bird Traps, 55, 88, 90, 91.
BOX DEAD FALL, 128.
Box Hut, used in Pickerel fishing, 241.
BOW OWL TRAP, 88.
BOX PIT-FALL, 131.
BOX SNARES, 55, 56.
BOX TRAP, the, 103.
Two modes of setting, 105.
Box Traps, 55, 56, 88, 90, 91, 103, 106, 109, 110.
BOX TRAP, pendent, 91.
Brandy on a trapping campaign, 257.
Brass wire nooses, 41.
Brick Trap, 66.
Broiling, recipes for, 233.
Brook Trout, fishing through the ice, 240.
" To cook deliciously, 232.
Bruises, ointment for, 255.
Buckskin gloves, in handling traps, 149.
Building the camp fire, 233.
Buffalo, the, 220.
As food, 221, 238,
How hunted and trapped, 221.
Building boats, 259.
Butternut log, for canoe, 239.
Butter, to keep on a campaign, 236.
C
Cage traps for birds, 76.
" " mice, 134.
Call Birds, how used, 72.
CAMPAIGN LIFE IN THE WILDERNESS, 225.
CAMPAIGN, PLAN OF, 225.
Camp fire, 228.
To build, 233.
Camp Kettle, 235.
" Knife, 235.
" Stove, 228, 235.
Canada Grouse, 238.
" Lynx.--See Lynx.
" Moose.--See Moose.
Candles, in camp, 227.
" Novel way of using, 218.
[Page 291]
Canned vegetables, 236.
CANOES, remarks on, 226.
" Basswood-bark, 264.
" Birch-bark, directions for building, 261.
" Hemlock bark, 264.
" Log.--See Dug-out.
" Spruce bark, 264.
Canton flannel bags, for bed clothes, 249.
Canvass-back Duck, as food, 239.
Canvas bags, waterproof, 236.
Caps, percussion, used in lighting fire, 234.
CAPTURE OF ANIMALS, 154.
CARPETING TENTS, 250.
CASTOREUM, or Barkstone, 150.
How obtained, 150.
How used.--See Beaver.
CASTOREUM COMPOSITION, 150.
Cat, domestic, use of skin, 286.
Value of skin, 284.
Cat, wild.--See Wild Cat.
Caulking boats, 261, 266.
Caution in baiting steel traps, 113.
Caution in handling steel traps, 149.
Chill, remedy for, 257.
Chimney-fire in log shanty, 245.
Chip as a plate, 232.
Chip, for a frying pan, 230, 232.
Chloride of Lime, as an antidote, 152.
Choosing a trapping ground, 225.
Cicely, Sweet, as scent bait in fishing, 240.
Cities built up by the fur trade, 281.
CLAP NET, 72.
Clearing tents and shanties from insects, 230.
Climate and fur apparel, 284.
CLOG, THE, 146.
Cloth for tent making, 247.
" Waterproof preparation for, 247.
Clothing, hints on, 228.
Coasting on the Indian sled, 270.
Cock of the plains, 238.
Coffee, 236.
Coffee-pot, 235.
Cold, remedy for, 257.
Combination camp-knife, 235.
COMMON BOX TRAP, 103.
Compass, pocket, 227.
Compound scent-bait, 150, 153.
Concealing steel traps, 229.
Cone of paper as a trap, 96.
Corrall, African trap, 34.
COOKING UTENSILS FOR A CAMPAIGN, 230, 235.
Coon.--See Raccoon.
COOP TRAP, 67.
" For large game, 33.
Cotton drilling, used for making tents, 247.
" Waterproof preparation for, 247.
"Cotton Tail."--See Rabbit.
Cougar.--See Puma.
Cow's udder, as fish bait, 240.
Crackers as food, 236.
Crow trap, 96.
CUMMIN, used in trapping, 152.
Cup, portable, 231.
CURING SKINS, 272.
Current price list of American furs, 284.
D
Dark lantern, used by bird catchers, 71.
Deer hunters, 217.
DEAD-FALLS, 17, 29, 107, 111, 113.
" Box, 128.
" For large game, 17.
" How set for the fox, 113.
" Stone, 29.
" Weighted harpoon, 26.
" With figure four trap, 114.
Dead fish, valuable in making trails, 153.
Decoys, 72, 76, 94.
Decoy traps, 72, 76, 94.
" Whistle, 74.
" Owl used as, 98.
DEER, 124.
As food, 233, 237, 238.
How to skin the, 219.
Hunting at night, 217, 218.
Luminosity of eyes at night, 217, 218.
Natural characteristics of, 214.
Salt as bait for, 218.
Season for hunting, 218.
Trapping the, 214, 215.
Various modes of hunting, 217.
Various species of, 215.
Deer lick, the, 215.
Deer meat, to dry, 237.
Deer meat, to roast, 233.
Delmonico outdone, 232.
Detecting the direction of the wind by the finger, 217.
Devices used in connection with the steel trap, 144, 147.
Devils' Lantern, 241.
Diet of the Trapper, 230.
"DOUBLE ENDER," the, 109.
Double traps, 57, 109, 110, 129.
DOWN FALL, the, 26.
Dressing for fur skins, 273, 276.
Dressing for leather, 228.
Dressing skins for market, 272.
" Home use, 276.
Dried fish, 237.
Dried venison, 237.
Drilling, as tent material, 247.
" Waterproof preparation for, 247.
[Page 292]
Drinking cup, portable, 231.
Drying skins, 272, 273, 276.
Ducks, various species of, 239.
As food, 239.
To cook deliciously, 233.
DUCK TRAPS, 94, 95.
"DUG-OUT," THE, hints on, 226.
Detailed directions for making, 259.
E
Eels, oil prepared from, 151.
Elk.--See Moose.
"Ephraim."--See Bear.
Escaping from the mosquitoes, 255.
Exports of furs, 281, 285.
Extemporized frying pan, 232.
"Toaster," 233.
Extract of beef, Liebig's, 236.
Extravagance in fur apparel, 279.
F
False bottom traps, 127, 131, 133.
Fashion and fur, 279, 283, 285.
FEATHERED GAME, TRAPS FOR, 65.
Felt, use of rabbit-fur in making, 286.
FENNEL, OIL OF, used in trapping, 152.
FENUGREEK, OIL OF, used in trapping, 152.
FIGURE FOUR SNARE, 61.
FIGURE FOUR TRAP, 107.
" Used with Dead-Fall, 114.
Finger, as a weather vane, 217.
Fire, to build, 227.
" To light without matches, 234.
" With powder and cap, 234.
" Without "anything," 235.
Fire arms, 227.
" Oil for, 227.
Fire bottle, 241.
Fire Hat for night hunting, 218.
Fire-proof preparations for tents, 247.
Fish, to bake, 232.
To dry, 237.
To fry, 233.
FISHER MARTEN.--
How to trap the animal, 194.
Its nature and habits, 194.
Its common mode of release from capture, 144.
Method of skinning, 195.
Use of skin, 285.
Value of skin, 284.
FISH-HOOK, trap for ducks, 95.
Fishing, hints on, 239.
At night, 239.
Through the ice, 240.
Various baits, 240.
With tip-up. 240.
For pickerel, 240.
Fishing tackle, 227, 240, 241.
Fish lantern, 241.
FISH OIL, used in the art of trapping, 151.
How obtained, 151.
Fish, scent baits for, 240.
Spearing, 239.
Fish traps, 120, 241.
Flat bottomed boats, 264, 267.
Flat bottomed sled.--See Toboggan
Flat stone, as a frying pan, 232.
Flower, converted into a trap, 99.
Fly, black.--See "Punkey."
FLY-PAPER, to make, 136.
Fly Tent, the, 246.
Fly traps, 136.
Food, portable, 230.
FOOD AND COOKING UTENSILS, 230.
"FOOLS' CAP" TRAP FOR CROWS, 96.
Forks, 235.
Fortunes founded on peltry, 281.
FOWLING NET, the, 70.
Fox.--
Nature and habits of, 154.
Trapping the, 154.
Trapped by a dead-fall, 111, 113.
Varieties of, 154.
Directions for skinning, 158.--See also Red and Silver Fox.
"Fox fire," used in capture of deer, 218.
Fritters, pork, to cook, 231.
Frying pan, 231, 235.
" An extemporized, 232.
Fur Market, eccentricities of, 283.
Furs, ancient uses of, 278.
Annual yield throughout the world, 281.
Furs, best season for, 147.
"Home," 281.
Sale of, by Hudson's Bay Company, 281.
"Shipping," 281.
Table of market values, 282.
Fur skins, to cure for market, 272.
To tan, 276.
Hints on selling for profit, 283.
Various uses of, 285.
FUR TRADE, OBSERVATIONS ON, 278.
Immensity of, 281.
G
Game, protected from wolves, 237.
GAROTTE TRAP, 114.
Gloves to be used in trapping, 149.
Glutton.--See Wolverine.
[Page 293]
Gnats, 230, 256.
Painful effects of their bites, 256.
Remedies for their bites, 255.
Driven away by the "Smudge," 230.
Gnat, black.--See "Punkey."
Goose trap, 75.
GOPHER.--
Nature and habits of, 205.
Trapping the, 205.
Traps for, 119, 120, 40.
Directions for skinning, 206.
Grappling iron, the, 146.
Grease for boots and shoes, 228.
"Great Bear Tamer," the, 142.
GRIZZLY BEAR.--
Nature and habits of, 169.
Trapping the, 169.
Traps for, 17, 142.
Use of fur, 285.
Ground plan of trapping lines, 228.
Ground, selection for trapping, 225,
GROUND SNARES, 44.
Grouse, as food, 233, 238.
Bait for, 42.
Oil of, for fire arms, 227.
Peculiarities of, 42.
Snares for, 39.
To cook deliciously, 233.
Various species of, 238.
GUN TRAP, 20.
H
Hair Nooses, 41.
Half tent, 246.
Hammocks, 250,
Hammock bed, 249.
Handling steel traps, caution in, 149.
Hanging bed, 249.
Hare.--See Rabbit.
HARPOON TRAP of Africa, 26.
Hat Brim, portable, 258.
Netting attachment for, 258.
Hat lantern for night hunting, 218.
Hawk snare, 43.
HAWK TRAP, 93.
Head lantern used in deer hunting, 218.
HEAD NET, 257.
HEDGE NOOSES, 41.
Hemlock bark canoes, 264.
Hemlock boughs, as bedding, 250.
Hemp, used in caulking boats, 261, 266.
"Hiding" steel traps, 229.
High top boots, 228.
Hints on baiting the steel trap, 143.
Hints on selection of trapping ground, 225.
Hints on skinning animals, 272.
Hints on trapping, 148.
Hints on plans of trapping lines, 228.
Hints on sale of furs, 283.
Hippopotamus trap, 26.
Historical items relating to furs and the fur trade, 278.
Hoe cake, to cook, 232.
Hogs carried off by bears, 170.
Hog's liver used as fish bait, 240.
"Home Furs," 281.
HOME-MADE BOAT, 264.
Honey as bait, 19, 31, 170.
Hook trap for ducks, 95.
Hopo, African trap, 34.
Hoop nooses, 40.
HOOP STRETCHER for skins, 275.
Horse hair nooses, to make, 41.
Hot drink for chills, 257.
HOUSEHOLD TRAPS, 125.
House Tent, 247.
How to select a steel trap, 138.
HOW TO TRAP, 153.
Hudson Bay Company, origin of, 280.
Sales of, 281, 282.
Humming bird, killed by concussion, 99.
" Snare, 99.
" Trap, 99.
" Various modes of capture, 99.
Hunting the deer, 217.
Hunting from trees, 218.
HUT, LOG.--See Log Shanty.
I
Implements required on a trapping campaign, 227.
Improved springle, 60.
INDIAN CANOE.--See BIRCH BARK CANOE.
Indian meal, as food, 231.
INDIAN SLEDGE.--See Toboggan.
INDIAN SNOW SHOE, 268.
India-rubber blanket, 236.
How used, 250.
INSECT OINTMENTS, 255.
Insect bites, remedies for, 255.
" Sores resulting from, 257.
Insects, to drive out from tent or shanty, 230, 256.
Intemperance, 257.
J
Jack knife, a valuable tool, 227. Jar, as a trap, 135.
[Page 294]
Jar, air-tight, for butter, 236.
"Jerked Venison," 231.
JOHN JACOB ASTOR, and the fur trade, 281.
Johnny cake, to cook, 232.
K
Kettle, camp, 235.
Knapsack, 234.
Directions for making, 236.
Knife, a necessary implement, 227.
Knife, the combination camp, 235.
Knives, table, 235.
L
Lake trout, fishing for, 240.
To cook deliciously, 232.
Lantern for the head, used by deer hunters, 218.
Lantern used by bird catchers, 71.
Lantern trap for fish, 241.
Large game, traps for, 17.
LAVENDER, used in the art of trapping, 152.
Leather preservative, 228.
"Le Chat."--See Lynx.
Lemonade, 236.
Lens, to light fire with, 234.
Lever for setting large steel traps, 142.
Liebig's extract of beef, 236.
Light, the trapper's, 227.
Light for the head in night hunting, 218.
Light home-made boat, 264.
Lime, chloride of, as a disinfectant, 152.
Liniment for wounds and bruises, 255.
" Insect bites, 255.
Linseed oil, used as bird lime, 98.
Lion, American.--See Puma.
LIST OF PRICES OF AMBRICAN FURS, 284.
Liver, as fish bait, 240.
LOG CABIN.--See Log Shanty.
Log Canoe.--See Dug-Out.
LOG COOP TRAP, 33.
LOG SHANTY, hints on, 226, 229.
Detailed directions for building, 244.
Site for building, 244, 287.
To clear of gnats and mosquitoes, 230.
Lucifer Matches.--See Matches.
"Luxuries," 234.
LYNX, THE CANADIAN, 164.
Natural characteristics of, 164.
Trapping the, 164.
Traps for, 17, 20, 23, 29, 33, 35, 141.
LYNX.--
Directions for skinning, 166.
Use of skin, 285.
Value of skin, 284.
M
Mackinaw and the Fur Trade, 281.
Mallard Duck as food, 239.
" to Cook.--See Duck.
MARKET VALUE OF FUR SKINS, 281.
Marmot.--See Woodchuck.
MARTEN:--
Nature and habits of, 192.
Trapping the, 192.
Its common mode of escape, 144.
Directions for removing skin, 194.
How to tan the Skin, 277.
Value and use of skin, 284, 285.
Mastic Varnish used in water-proofing, 234.
MATCHES, 227.
Bottle used for carrying, 234.
To render water-proof, 234.
Meal, Indian, as food, 231.
Meat, to dry, 237.
"MEDICINES," OR SCENT BAITS, 149.
Menagerie Whistle, 74.
Merganser, the, as food, 239,
To cook.--See Duck.
MIDGETS, 256.
Painful effect of their bites, 256.
Driven away by the "Smudge," 230.
Ointments for bites, 255.
Serious effects of bites on the intemperate, 257.
MINK:--
Nature and habits of, 189.
Trapping the, 189.
Traps for, 43, 141.
Its common mode of escape from the steel trap, 144.
Directions for skinning, 191.
To tan skin of, 277.
Extensive use of skins in America, 281.
Uses of skin, 285.
Value of skin, 284.
MISCELLANEOUS hints on trapping, 148.
MISCELLANY, the Trapper's, 255,
MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS, 103.
MOLE, 207.
Beauty of fur, 209, 211.
Life and habits of, 207.
Trapping the, 119, 210.
Traps for, 119, 120, 140.
Varieties of, 211.
Directions for skinning.--See Gopher.
Use of fur, 286.
[Page 295]
Montreal and the Fur Trade, 281.
MOOSE:--
Nature and habits of, 219.
Trapping the, 220.
"Yards," 220.
Flesh as food, 220, 223, 238.
How to skin the animal, 220.
Moose meat, to roast, 233.
" Meat to dry, 237.
MOSQUITOES, 230.
Painful effects of their bites, 257.
Ointments for bites, 255.
Driven away by the "Smudge," 230.
Adirondack experiences with, 255, 256.
Head-net, 257.
Serious effects of bites on the intemperate, 257.
Mouse Traps, 124, 130, 131, 134, 135.
Mud Stick or Pusher, 267.
Mush, to boil, 232.
to fry, 232.
MUSK:--
Its use in the art of trapping, 151.
How obtained, 151.
MUSKRAT:--
Nature and habits of, 182.
Pit-fall Trap for, 133.
Spearing the, 183.
Trapping the, 182.
Traps for, 43, 107, 110, 111, 114, 133, 141.
Its common mode of release, 144.
Extensive use of skins in America, 281.
Skin, to remove, 185.
To tan, 277.
Use of, 286.
Value of, 284.
Muscovy Duck as food, 239.
To cook.--See Duck.
Musquaw.--See Bear.
N
Natural Advantages utilized by the Trapper, 149.
Natural History.
Necessity of its study in the art of Trapping, 148.
Neatsfoot Oil for Fire Arms, 227.
NET:--
" Bat fowling, 70.
" Bird catching, 70.
" Clap, 72.
" Decoy, 72.
" Fish, use of, 241.
Net for the head, 257.
" Fowling, 70.
Net traps, 70, 73, 75, 80, 83, 85.
For Tiger, Puma, or Wild Cat, 35.
Spring, 80.
The upright, 85.
Wild Duck, 94.
Wild Goose, 175.
Netting attachment for Hat brim, 258.
NEWHOUSE TRAP, THE, 138.
Night-hunting, 217, 218.
Night-fishing, 239.
Nooses:--
Horse hair, 41.
In hedge, 42.
On hoops, 40.
On string, 40.
NOOSE TRAPS, 39.
Nooses, wire, 41.
Northwest Fur Company, 280.
Nutting in Mid-winter, 212.
O
Oar-locks, simple, 266.
Oat-meal as food, 236.
OBSERVATIONS ON THE HISTORY OF FURS AND THE FUR TRADE, 278.
Oil, Fish.--
Used in trapping, 151.
How obtained, 151.
Oil of Amber.--
Used in the art of trapping, 152.
Oil of Ambergris.--
Used in the art of trapping, 152.
Oil of Anise:--
Its use in the art of trapping, 152.
Oil of Cinnamon:--
Its use in the art of trapping, 152.
Oil of Fennel:--
Its use in the art of trapping, 152.
Oil of Fenugreek:--
Its use in the art of trapping, 152.
Oil of Lavender:--
Its use in the art of trapping, 152.
Oil of Rhodium:--
Its use by trappers, 151.
Oil of Skunk:--
Its use by trappers, 151.
Oil:--
For fire arms, 227.
For light, 227.
Oil of Partridge:--
Its use, 227.
Oil of Pennyroyal:--
For insect bite, 255.
[Page 296]
Ointment for Bruises and Wounds, 255.
OINTMENT FOR INSECT BITES, 255.
OLD-FASHIONED SPRINGLE, 58.
Olive Oil in cooking, 236.
OPOSSUM, 201.
Nature and habits of, 202.
Trapping the, 201.
Hunting the, 202.
Directions for skinning, 203.
Uses of skin, 286.
Value of skin, 284.
OTTER:--
Nature and habits of, 202.
Trapping the, 186.
Directions for skinning, 189.
How to tan the skin, 277.
Use of skin, 286.
Value of skin, 284.
OWL TRAP, 88.
Owl:--
Used in connection with bird lime as decoy, 98.
P
Paint as a water-proof covering, 236.
Painter, the.--See Puma.
Panther, the.--See Puma.
Paper Cone used as a trap, 96.
Partridge, 42, 238.
As food, 238.
Fat for fire arms, 227.
Snares, 39, etc.
To cook deliciously, 233.
Peltry:--
Fortunes founded on, 281.
Cities built up on, 281.
PENDENT BOX, BIRD TRAP, 91.
Pennyroyal for insect bites, 255.
Pepper Tea as a remedy, 257.
Percussion Cap used in lighting lire, 234.
Peshoo, the.--See Lynx.
Phosphorescent wood used in night-hunting, 218.
Phosphorus lantern for catching fish, 241.
Pickerel fishing, 240.
" Spearing, 241.
" Trap for, 121.
" To cook, 233.
Pigeon Net-trap, 72.
Pigs carried off by Bears, 170.
Pine Log Canoe.--See Dug-out.
Pinnated Grouse, 238.
Pitch for stopping leaks, 261, 264, 266.
PIT-FALL TRAPS.--
For large game, 31.
For small game, 125, 127, 131.
Barrel, 127.
Box, 131.
For Muskrat, 133.
PLAN OF TRAPPING CAMPAIGN, 225.
Plates, substitutes for, 232, 235.
Platform snare. 61.
Poachers, or trap robbers, 229.
POACHER'S SNARE, 48.
Pocket compass, 227.
POCKET HAT BRIM, 258.
" Sun-glass, 234.
Poisoned arrows, 26.
POISONING, 222.
Pop-corn as bait for Quail, 54.
Portable boats, 259.
Portable food & cooking utensils, 230, 235.
Portable drinking cup, 231.
Hat brim, 258.
" With netting attached, 258.
Snares, 50, 52.
Stove, 228, 235.
Pork as food, 231.
" Fritters, 251.
" " To make, 232.
"Possum."--See Opossum.
Potatoes as food, 235.
Pouched Rat.--See Gopher.
Powder used in lighting fire, 234.
Prairie Hen, 238.
Prairie Whistle, 74.
Precautions in handling steel traps, 156.
PREFACE, 3.
Preparation of skins for market, 272.
Preserve jar used as trap, 135.
Price Current of American Furs, 284.
Prime fur, best season for, 147.
Prof. Blot outdone in cooking, 232.
Profit in selling furs, 233.
PRONGHORN Antelope, 221.
Nature and habits of, 221.
How hunted and trapped, 221, 238.
Provisions, to protect from Wolves, 237.
Ptarmigan, to cook, 233.
Trap for, 75.
How hunted and trapped, 239.
Various species of, 230.
PUMA:--
Bait for, 20, 31, 32, 163.
Nature and habits of, 161.
Peculiarities of, 20.
Traps for, 17, 20, 23, 29, 31, 33, 141.
Trapping the, 161.
Directions for skinning, 164.
Use of skin, 286.
Value of skin, 284.
Pumice Stone, used in finishing skins, 276.
"PUNKEY."--
Description of the Insect, 256.
Severity of bites, 256.
Ointment for bites, 255.
Serious effects of bites on the intemperate, 257.
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Punk Tinder, used in lighting fire, 234. "Pusher."--See Mud stick.
Putty, for stopping leaks, 261.
Q
Quail, bait for, 40, 54.
" Snares, 39, 40, 41, etc.
To cook deliciously, 233.
Quotations of the Fur Market, 284.
R
RABBIT:--
As food, 238.
Bait for, 203.
How to skin, 204.
Nature and habits of, 203.
Salt as bait for, 109,
Traps for, 43, 64, 103.
Use of fur, 286.
Value of fur, 284.
Varieties of, 203.
RACCOON:--
As a pet, 173.
Nature and habits of, 172.
Trapping the, 172.
Traps for, 110, 116, 141.
Hunting the, 172.
Directions for skinning, 175.
How to tan the skin, 277.
Use of the fur, 285.
Value of the fur, 284.
Rat:--
Snares for, 43.
Trapping the, 125.
Traps for, 43, 125, 127, 128, 131, 138.
Rations for a Campaign, 230.
Raw Furs.--See Furs.
Recipe for insect ointments, 255.
Boot grease, 228.
For cooking, 230.
For curing skins, 272.
For tanning skins, 276.
Red Fox.--See Fox.
Red Fox.--
Value of skin, 284.
Use of skin, 285.
Red Pepper Tea as a remedy, 257.
Red Squirrel.--See Squirrel.
Remedies for insect bites, 255.
For chills, 257.
Requisites of a good steel trap, 138.
" For snaring, 39.
" For a good trapping ground, 225.
" For a trapping campaign, 227.
Revolver, 227.
Reynard outwitted by a dead-fall, 111, 113.
RHODIUM, Oil of:--
Its use by the trapper, 151.
Rice as food, 236.
Rifle and Shot Gun combined, 227.
Oil for, 227.
RIFLE TRAP, 20.
Roasting, recipes for, 233.
Rocky Mountain Sheep.--See Big Horn.
"Roughing it," 230.
Rubber blanket, 236.
How used, 250.
Ruffed Grouse.--See Partridge.
Rum on a trapping campaign, 257.
S
Sage Cock, the, 238.
Sale of furs by the Hudson's Bay Company, 282.
Salmon, spearing, 239.
" Spear, 239.
Salmon Trout, spearing, 239.
Salmon, to cook deliciously, 232.
Salt as bait for Deer, 218.
As bait for Rabbit, 109.
Salt Lick, the, 218.
Sandpaper used in softening skins, 276.
Salt Pork as food, 231.
SCENT BAITS, 149.
" Compound, 150, 153.
Scented baits for birds, 240.
Scented baits for fish, 240.
Season for Deer hunting, 218.
Scow, 267.
Season for trapping, 147.
Selection of trapping ground, 225.
Self-amputation as a means of escape with captured animals, 144.
Self-amputation, to prevent, 144, 145.
Self-raising flour, 235.
SELF-SETTING TRAPS, 110, 125, 127, 131.
SHANTY:--
Bark.--See Bark Shanty.
"Home."--See Log Shanty.
Log.--See Log Shanty.
Sheeting as tent material, 247.
Water-proof, preparation for, 247.
Shellac Varnish used in water-proofing, 234.
SHELTER:--The trapper's remarks on, 226.
Shelter tent, 247.
Details of construction, 242.
Shingle stretchers for skins, 274.
[Page 298]
"Shipping furs," 281.
SHOOTING AND POISONING, 222.
Shot-gun Trap, 20.
Shot-gun combined with rifle, 267.
Shoulder basket, 234, 226.
SIEVE TRAP, 65.
Silver Fox, 154.
Value of skin, 284, 285.
Skinning animals, hints on, 272.
Skins:--
Stretchers for, 273.
To dry, 272, 276.
To soften, 276, 277.
To tan, 276.
Value of, 284.
Use of, 285.
SKUNK, 195.
Adventure with, 196.
As food, 238.
Nature and habits of, 195.
Trapping the, 195.
Traps for, 43, 111, 114, 141.
To eradicate odor of, 152, 198.
Oil of, used in trapping, 151.
Directions for skinning, 198.
Use of skin, 286.
Value of skin, 284.
Sled, Indian.--See Toboggan.
SLIDING POLE, 145.
Slippery Elm used for bird-lime, 98.
"Small Game" as food, 237.
Smell, acute sense of, in animals, 148.
Smoking the steel trap, 128.
Smouldering birch bark to drive away insects, 230.
Smudge, the, 230, 256.
SNARE.--
Box, 55.
Double box, 56.
Fig. Four, 62.
Hawk, 43.
Hedge, 42.
Hoop, 40.
Humming-bird, 99.
Knotted string, 52, 53, 54.
Pasteboard box, 56.
Platform, 61.
Poacher's, 48.
Portable, 48, 50, 52.
Quail, 53.
Rat, 43.
"Simplest," 52.
Springle, 58, 60.
Stovepipe, 120.
Tree, 42.
Triangle, 42.
Twitchup, 43.
Wood Chuck, 43.
SNARES, OR NOOSE TRAPS, 37.
Snaring, requisites for, 39.
Snow Grouse, the, 238.
SNOW-SHOES, 267.
Snow-shoe race, 267.
Softening skins, 276, 277.
Sores resulting from insect bites, 257.
Soups, recipes for, 236.
Spearing fish, 239, 241.
Spearing Muskrats, 183.
Spider for cooking, 233.
Spoons, 235.
Spring-bed, 249.
SPRINGLE, 58, 60.
Spring-net Traps, 80.
Spring-pole, the, 144.
Spring, to temper, 84.
Spruce Bark Canoes, 264.
Spruce boughs as bedding, 250.
Spruce Grouse, 238.
SQUIRRELS, 211.
As food, 238.
Nature and habits of, 211.
Traps for, 43, 103, 106, 107, 110, 116, 128, 140.
Various species of, 213.
To cook, 233.
Use of skins, 286.
STEEL TRAPS, 137.
Caution in handling, 149.
Concealing in the woods, 229,
Various modes of setting, 144.
Requisite number for a campaign, 227.
To set for rats, 128.
To select judiciously, 138.
Requisites of, 138.
Hints on baiting, 143.
Steel Trap spring, to set with lever, 142.
STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING, 137.
Still hunting, 217.
Stimulants, 257.
Stone Dead-fall, 29.
Storing traps in the woods, 229.
Stove, portable, 228, 235.
Stovepipe fish-trap, 120.
St. Paul, Minn., and the Fur Trade, 281.
STRETCHERS FOR SKINS, 273.
Strychnine poisoning, 222.
Sucker wire nooses, 41.
Sugar of lead used in water-proofing, 247.
Sun-glass, 234, 235,
Sweet Cicely as bait for fish, 240.
SWEET FENNEL.--
Oil used in trapping, 152,
Sweet Oil and Tar Ointment for insect bites, 255.
Swinging bed, 249.
[Page 299]
T
Table knife and bowl trap, 135.
Table showing sale of furs by Hudson Bay Company, 282.
Tallow, mutton, as ointment, 255.
Tame Geese as decoys, 75.
TANNING SKINS, 276.
Mixtures, 276, 277, 278.
With the hair on, 276.
Simple, 278.
Tar and Sweet Oil ointment for insect bites, 255.
Tar for water-proofing, 264.
Tea, 236.
" Red pepper, as a remedy, 257.
Teal Ducks as food, 239.
To cook.--See Duck.
"Telescope" Drinking Cup, 231.
Tempering iron spring, 84.
TENTS, 246.
House-tent, 246.
Fly-tent, 247.
Half-tent, 247.
Shelter-tent, 247.
Materials, 247.
Water-proof preparation for, 247.
Fire-proof preparation for, 247.
To carpet with spruce, 250.
To clear of gnats and musquitoes, 230.
TENT CARPETING, 250.
Thimble used with bowl as Mouse trap, 136.
Tiger captured with bird lime, 35.
Tiger trap, 31.
Tinder, 234.
Tip-ups, 240.
Toaster, an extemporized, 233.
TOBOGGAN, OR INDIAN SLEDGE, 269.
Tools required on a trapping campaign, 227.
Tools required for canoe building, 259.
Torch for the head, used in night hunting, 218.
"Touch-wood " used in lighting fire, 234.
Trail. The.--
Its value to the trapper, 153.
Various modes of making, 153.
TRAP.--
Arrow, 23, 25.
Barrel. 125, 127.
Bird, 65, 70, 73, 75, 88, 90, 91, 96.
Bow, 23, 25, 116.
Bowl, 135.
Box, 55, 56, 88, 90, 91, 103, 106, 109, 110.
Brick, 66.
Cage, 76, 134.
Cob house, 67.
Coon, 110, 116, 141.
Coop, 33, 67, 70.
Crow, 96.
Dead-fall, 17, 107, 111.
Decoy, 72, 76, 94.
Double ender, 109.
Down-fall, 26.
Duck, 94, 95.
Fish, 120.
Fish hook, 95.
Fly, 136.
Fool's-cap, 96.
Garotte, 114.
Gun, 20.
Harpoon, 26.
Hawk, 42, 93.
Hook, 95.
Jar, 135.
Mole, 119, 120.
Mouse, 130, 131, 134, 135.
Net, 70, 73, 75, 80, 83, 85.
Owl, 88.
Partridge, 43, etc.
Pendent Box, 91.
Pitfall, 11, 125, 127, 131.
Ptarmigan, 75.
Quail, 39, 40, 41, 53.
Rabbit, 43, 64, 103.
Rat, 43, 125, 127, 128, 131, 138.
Rifle, 20.
Self-setting, 110, 125, 127, 131.
Sieve, 65.
Spring net, 80, 83, 85.
Steel, 140.
The "Newhouse," 140.
Tree, 42, 91.
Upright net, 85.
Wild Duck, 94, 95.
Wild Goose, 75.
Woodchuck, 43.
Trapper's beds and bedding, 248.
" Cooking utensils, 230.
" Diet, 230.
TRAPPER'S MISCELLANY, 255.
" Shelter, 226, 242.
" Sled.--See Toboggan.
TRAPPING, art of, 148.
Season for, 147.
Miscellaneous hints on, 148.
Campaign, plan of, 225.
Tools and other requisites, 227.
Ground, selection of, 225.
Valuable suggestions on, 228.
Trapping Lines, 226.
Trap robbers, 220.
Traps for large game, 17.
[Page 300]
FOR FEATHERED GAME, 65.
HOUSEHOLD, 125.
Tree hunting, 218.
Tree snare, 42.
" Traps, 42, 91.
TRIANGLE SNARE, 42.
Trout, to cook deliciously, 232.
Trumpet Creeper flower used as a trap, 99.
Tumbler fly-trap, 136.
Twitch-up, 43, 62.
Poacher's, 48.
Portable, 50.
"Simplest," 52.
U
UPRIGHT NET TRAP, 85.
" Snares 44, 58.
Use and abuse of Alcohol, 257.
Uses of fur skins, 285.
Utensils for cooking, 230, 235.
V
Value of fur skins, table of, 262.
Various uses of fur skins, 285.
Varnish water-proof preparation for preserving matches, 234.
Vegetables for food on a campaign, 235.
" Canned, 236.
Venison as food, 233, 237.
To roast, 233.
To preserve, 237.
"Jerked," 237.
Dried, 237.
W
Walking on the snow, 267.
War in the fur trade, 281.
Watch crystal as sun glass, 287.
Water fowl as food, 239.
Water-proof application for boats, 261, 264, 266.
" Canvas bags, for food, 236.
Match safe, 234.
" Preparation, 236, 247, 266.
" Varnish for matches, 234.
Water traps, 110, 120.
Wedge stretcher for skins, 274.
Weighted harpoon trap, 26.
Wheaten grits as trappers' food, 236.
Wheat flour as food, 235.
" Self-raising, 235.
Wheel form of trapping lines, 229.
Whiskey on a trapping campaign, 257.
Whip lashes from Woodchuck hide, 204.
Whistlebird, 74.
White Birch Canoe, 261.
White-wood log for Dug-out, 259.
Widgeon, the, as food, 239.
To cook.--See Duck.
WILD CAT:--
Nature and habits of, 167.
Snares for, 43.
Trapping the, 166.
Skinning the, 168.
Uses of skin, 286.
Value of skin, 284.
Wild Duck, to cook, 233.
Wild Duck, traps, 94, 95.
Wild Goose as food, 239.
Wild Goose to cook, 233.
Wild Goose trap, 75.
Wind, direction of, to detect by the finger, 217.
Winged vermin, 255.
Winter fishing, 240.
Wire cage trap for birds, 76.
" " For mice, 134.
Wire nooses, 41.
WOLF.--
Nature and habits of, 158.
Trapping the, 158.
Poisoning the, 222.
Traps for, 20, 141.
To protect provisions from, 237.
Varieties of, 158.
Directions for skinning, 161.
Use of skin, 286.
Value of skin, 284.
WOLVERINE:--
Nature and habits of, 199, 238.
Trapping the, 199.
Natural enemy to the Beaver, 200.
Directions for skinning, 201.
Use of skin, 286.
Value of skin, 284.
WOODCHUCK, 204.
As food, 238.
Nature and habits of, 204.
Snare, 205.
Trapping the, 204.
Use of skin, 204.
Smoked from its burrow, 205.
Removing skin of, 205.
Woodcock, to cook, 233.
Wood Duck as food, 239.
To cook.--See Duck.
Woodland beds and bedding, 249.
Wounds, ointment for, 255.