CAMPAIGN LIFE IN THE WILDERNESS.
[Illustration: I]t has been the author's object in the preparation
of this book not simply to content the reader with a mere superficial
knowledge of so-called "Amateur trapping," but to carry him further
into the art professionally considered, and for this reason we
present in the following chapter a full catalogue of the trapper's
outfit, containing detailed descriptions of all the necessaries for
a most thorough campaign, including boats and canoes, log cabins,
shanties and tents, snow shoes and camp furniture of all kinds,
together with numerous and valuable hints on trapper's food.
PLAN OF CAMPAIGN.
The first thing to be considered in reference to a campaign is
the selection of a trapping ground, and it is always desirable
to choose a locality where travel by water can be resorted to as
much as possible. Otter, mink, beaver and muskrat are among the
most desirable game for the trapper, and as these are all amphibious
animals, a watered district is therefore the best on all accounts.
Lakes, ponds, and streams, bordered by wild woods, form the best
possible grounds for general trapping, and the mountain lakes of the
Adirondacks and Alleghenies, and all similar regions are especially
desirable on this account. Almost any wild country, intersected
with streams, lakes, and rivers, is apt to abound with game, and
some trappers confine their labors to the borders of a single lake,
and adjoining forest. This plan is especially to be recommended to
the amateur, as much of the travelling to and fro can be done by boat,
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the labor being thus much lightened. Having decided upon the seat
of operations, the young trappers should immediately set to work
at building their shanties and boats. The home shanty is of the
greatest importance, and should be constructed first. Select some
flat bit of land near the water and clear it of brush wood, or
other rubbish and proceed to work as described on page 242. A good
axe is the only tool required by an experienced trapper in the
construction of such a shanty. Should the trapping lines be very
extensive, additional _bark_ shanties, page 245, will require to
be made at intervals along the line, for sleeping stations and
shelters in case of storm. The professional trapper generally attends
to the building of his shanties and boats before the trapping season
commences, and thus has everything in readiness for his campaign.
If in a birch bark country the Indian canoe, page 260, is the most
desirable craft, on account of its lightness and portability. The
dug-out, or bateau, described on page 259, will also do good service.
The trapping season begins in October, and everything should be
in readiness at this time, so that the trappers may devote all
their time strictly to business.
The route of the professional trapper often extends over fifty
miles, and the number and weight of traps and provisions which
these rough-and-ready individuals often carry as personal luggage
is most astounding. Fifty or sixty pounds apiece is considered a
_fair_ burden, and they deem no one a fit physical subject for a
campaign who cannot at least manage thirty pounds with comparative
ease. The number of the trapping party generally consists of from
two to four. A few days prior to the opening of the trapping season,
the party start out, laden with their burden of traps and provisions,
and deposit them at intervals along the line, the provisions being
mainly kept in the "home shanty." Several trips may be necessary to
complete these preparations, unless the trapping ground is readily
accessible by wagon or boat, in which case the transportation is
much easier.
The "home shanty" is generally built only when the trapping grounds
are far in the wilderness, miles away from civilization. If the
line extends from the outskirts of some town or village, such a
hut may be dispensed with. It is used principally as a storehouse
for furs, provisions, ammunition, tools, and other valuables, and
also serves as a point of rendezvous, or a home, for the trappers,
one of the number being generally left in charge to "keep shanty"
while his companions are on their tramps in search of game. If
desired, a boy may be taken
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along for this especial purpose. In every case, some such guardian
is very necessary, and particularly in wild districts, abounding in
wolves and bears, as these animals have an odd trick of breaking
into unguarded shanties, and often make sad havoc with its stores.
Steel traps are almost exclusively used by the professional trapper,
and the supply for a single campaign will often exceed one hundred
and fifty. Many of the traps described in the early part of this
work are also used, and for the amateur who has not the ready cash
to layout in steel traps, are decidedly to be recommended and will
be found very efficient. From thirty to fifty traps would be a fair
number for an ordinary amateur trapping season, and the probable
cost of such a lot would be from $15 to $25. The sizes of the traps
will depend upon the game sought, No. 2-1/2 being a good average.
With this supply, relying somewhat on dead-falls, twitch-ups, and
the various other devices described in our early pages, we can
guarantee lively sport, of course, presuming that good judgment has
been used in the selection of a trapping ground. In later articles,
under the proper headings, we give full details concerning food
and cooking utensils, shelter and bedding, as well as many other
requisites for the trapper's comfort. To complete the list he should
provide himself with a good sharp axe, and hatchet, and if the
log canoe is in anticipation he will also require the other tools
mentioned on page 259 an oilstone being carried in order to keep the
various tools in good repair; an auger, saw, and some large nails are
also to be desired, and a small parcel containing needles, thread,
pins, scissors, etc., will be found indispensable. "Cleanliness is
next to Godliness," and there are no more luxurious necessities
in camp life than a piece of soap and a clean towel. For light it
is advisable to carry a supply of candles, or a lantern with a can
of oil. The latter is, of course, more bulky, and for a campaign
wholly on foot is hardly to be recommended on this account.
Each trapper should be provided with a stout jack-knife, pocket-compass,
and a supply of matches, a number of these being always carried on
the person to provide for the emergencies to which the hunter is
always subject.
One of the party should carry a double-barrelled shot-gun and another
a rifle, or both may be combined in a single weapon. A revolver
is also a desirable acquisition. Purified neats-foot oil should
be used on the fire-arms, and in lieu of this, some trappers use
the melted fat of the grouse for the same purpose. A good supply
of fishing tackle is almost indispensable, and
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with these valuable equipments the young trapper may defy the wilderness
with all its hazards. With his traps, gun and rod, together with his
store of provisions, he may look forward to a larder well stocked
and may calculate on an appetite which will do it justice.
The list of portable provisions and cooking utensils best adapted
for a campaign are given under their proper title, and will be
found to cover all the wants of the most fastidious. The stove
is the most cumbersome article, but trappers generally dispense
with its use altogether, looking at it rather in the light of a
luxury as well as a nuisance. The open camp fire will answer every
purpose, both for cooking and for comfort in cold weather.
For clothing it is desirable to carry at least two suits, in order
to have a "change." They should be of woolen, and from the _hunter's_
point of view, should be of a sombre shade, so as to be as inconspicuous
as possible. The use of high-top boots is to be deprecated, as they
are tiresome and unwieldy. Short boots, with thick, iron-pegged
soles, are generally preferred by trappers, and in order to render
them soft, pliable, and waterproof they may be soaked or smeared
with a hot mixture, composed of one part rosin, two parts beeswax,
and three parts tallow. Simple tallow, or even the fat of the deer,
is sometimes used for the same purpose.
Calculating on a successful campaign, a supply of board-stretchers,
page 273, will be needed for the curing of the skins, and if our
adventurous enthusiasts should extend their experience along into
the winter, the toboggan and snow-shoes will come into good use
for convenient winter travel.
The trapping season properly commences in October and ends in April.
The pelts of fur bearing animals are in their best condition during
this time, and in the winter are in their prime. The various modes
of setting and baiting traps for all our leading animals are clearly
set forth in another part of this volume. And in the accompanying
engravings will be found life like representations of each species.
In a trapping campaign it is an excellent plan to select a central
point for the home shanty, extending the trapping lines in several
directions therefrom, following the borders of the lakes or streams
for the otter, beaver, mink and muskrat; and setting a few lines
inland for the capture of martens, racoons, foxes, etc.
For an amateur campaign this a most excellent and convenient
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arrangement, the lines may extend all the way from one to five miles
each, and connect at their edges, the whole ground plan resembling the
form of a wheel, the shanty corresponding to the hub, and the trapping
lines the spokes, the tire representing the circuit connecting the
various lines. Where the latter extend over many miles it is well
to construct bark shanties at the limits. Let each trapper take
a certain "spoke," and follow it to its terminus, returning on the
adjacent line. On his arrival at the shanty he should immediately
set to work skinning the animals taken, and stretching their furs.
Full directions for skinning the various game are given under their
respective titles, and the curing of skins is treated in detail
in another chapter of this work. We also present a table of the
comparative values of the various American furs at the present
date of publication. Of course these values are constantly varying,
but the table will serve at least to gauge the relative values
of common and scarce furs. Great care should always be used in
removing the skins from the various animals, as the final value
of the fur much depends upon this. They should not be removed from
the stretchers until perfectly dry, and should then be laid in a
cool, airy place. When near a village or settlement it is advisable
to send "into town" every few days with a batch of furs for safe
keeping, and particularly so when the skins are valuable, and in
cases where the home shanty is left unguarded. The value of prime
otter or mink pelt is a matter of no small importance, and a good
trapping ground furnishes a rare field for light fingered prowlers
who are well posted on the market price of raw furs, and who are
constantly on the lookout for such prizes, either in the shape
of the prepared skin, or on the back of the live animal. These
"trap robbers," or poachers, are the pests of trappers, and many
have learned from dear experience the advisability of placing their
choice furs beyond the reach of the marauders.
The hut in which they are stored is nearly always kept guarded,
and, where this is impracticable, the skins are hid in hollow trees,
or carried to some near settlement, as we have already mentioned.
If the campaign proves successful and promises well for another
season, it is customary to hide the traps beneath rocks, thus saving
the labor of a second transportation. In order to keep the traps
from rusting, it is well to cover them with oat or buckwheat chaff.
The rock should be first rolled from its resting place, and a bed
of the chaff made beneath it, in which the traps should be covered,
the rock being afterwards replaced. In a few such
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places all the traps may be effectually stored away, and they will
be found in prime order and ready for business on the following
season.
In the months of September and October trappers are much annoyed by
gnats and mosquitoes, and, as a preventive against the attacks of
these pests, we give on page 255 some valuable receipts, which have
stood the test of time, and are still the most effective remedies.
The "smudge," consisting of a smouldering pile of birch bark is
also used where the insects infest the tents or shanties by night.
The bark should be dry, and should not be allowed to blaze. The
smudge is generally placed at the entrance of the tent, and the
trapper may then take his choice between smoke or mosquitoes, both
cannot exist together, and a tent infested with the blood-thirsty
pests may be effectually cleared in a few minutes by the introduction
of smoking brand for a few seconds. If the tent is now closely
buttoned and the smudge kept burning directly outside, there will
be no further trouble with the mosquitoes, and the odor of the
smoke is, after all, but a slight annoyance and to some is even
enjoyable after being once accustomed to it. When the home shanty
is infested, it may be cleared in the same way, and by the aid of
two or more smudges on the windward side may be kept free from
the insects.
FOOD AND COOKING UTENSILS.
The professional trapper on a campaign depends much upon his traps
for his food, and often entirely contents himself with the subsistence
thus gained. We _encourage_ and _believe_ in "roughing it" to a
certain extent, but not to that limit to which it is often carried
by many professional "followers of the trap" throughout our country.
The course of diet to which these individuals subject themselves,
would often do better credit to a half civilized barbarian than
to an enlightened white man, and when it comes to starting on a
campaign with no provision for food excepting a few traps, a gun, and
a box of matches, and relying on a chance chip for a frying-pan, he
would rather be "counted out." In ordinary cases we see no necessity
for such deprivation, and, on the other hand, we decry the idea of
transporting a whole kitchen and larder into the woods. There is
a happy medium between the two extremes, whereby a light amount
of luggage in the shape of cooking utensils and closely packed
portable food, may render the wild life of the trapper very cozy
and comfortable, and his meals a source of enjoyment, instead of a
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fulfilment of physical duty. What with the stock of traps, necessary
tools, blankets, etc., the trapper's burden is bound to be pretty
heavy, and it becomes necessary to select such food for transportation
as shall combine the greatest amount of nutriment and the least possible
weight, and to confine the utensils to those absolutely necessary
for decent cooking.
The trapper's culinary outfit may then be reduced to the following
items, and in them he will find a sufficiency for very passable
living.
One of the most nutritious and desirable articles of food consists
of fine sifted Indian meal; and it is the only substantial article
of diet which many trappers will deign to carry at all.
By some it is mixed with twice its quantity of wheat flour, and
is thus used in the preparation of quite a variety of palatable
dishes. One or two pounds of salt pork will also be found a valuable
addition; boxes of pepper and salt and soda should also be carried.
With these simple provisions alone, relying on his gun, traps and
fishing tackle for animal food, the young trapper may rely on three
enjoyable meals a day, if he is anything of a cook. Pork fritters
are not to be despised, even at a hotel table; and with the above
they can be made to suit the palate of the most fastidious.
Indian meal is a valuable accessory with cooks generally, and to
the trapper it often becomes his great "staff of life." If our
young enthusiast desires to try his hand at roughing it to the
fullest extent, compatible with common sense and the strength of an
ordinary physical constitution, he may endeavor to content himself
with the above portable rations; but with anything less it becomes
too much like starvation to arouse our enthusiasm. For cooking
utensils, a small frying-pan and a deep tin basin are indispensable;
and a drinking cup is also to be desired. The kind known as the
telescope cup, constructed in three parts, which close within each
other, when not in use, possesses great advantages on account of
its portability. With these one can get along pretty decently.
[Illustration]
The pork fritters already mentioned form a favorite dish with trappers
generally, and can be made in the following
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way; have at hand a thick batter of the Indian meal and flour;
cut a few slices of the pork, and fry them in the frying-pan until
the fat is tried out; cut a few more slices of the pork; dip them
in the batter and drop them in the bubbling fat, seasoning with
salt and pepper; cook until light brown and eat while hot. The
question now arises, "What shall we eat them with?" If you are
"roughing it," such luxuries as plates and knifes and forks are
surely out of the question; and you must content yourself with
a pair of chop sticks "a la Chinee," or make your jackknife do
double purpose, using a flat chip or stone as a plate. A small
tin plate may be added to the list of utensils if desired, but
we are now confining ourselves to the "lowest limit" of absolute
necessities. That wholesome dish known as "boiled mush," may come
under the above bill of fare; and fried mush is an old stand-by
to the rough and ready trapper. In the first case the Indian meal
is slowly boiled for one hour, and then seasoned as eaten. It is
then allowed to cool, and is cut in slices and fried in fat. Indian
meal cakes are easily made by dropping a quantity of the hot mush
in the frying-pan, having previously stirred in a small quantity
of soda, and turning it as soon as the lower side is browned. A
Johnny cake thus made is always appetizing, and with the addition
of a little sugar, it becomes a positive luxury. Hoe cakes, so
much relished by many, can be made by mixing up a quantity into
a thick mass, adding a little soda. Bake in the fire on a chip or
flat stone. The trapper's ground is generally in the neighborhood
of lakes or streams, and fresh fish are always to be had. They
may be cooked in a manner which would tempt a city epicure; and
when it comes to the cooking of a fresh brook trout, neither a
Prof. Blot nor a Delmonico can compete with the trapper's recipe.
The trout is first emptied and cleaned through a hole at the neck,
if the fish is large enough to admit of it; if not, it should be
done by a slit up the belly. The interior should be carefully washed
and seasoned with salt and pepper; and in the case of a large fish,
it should be stuffed with Indian meal. Build a good fire and allow
the wood to burn down to embers; lay the fish in the hot ashes
and cover it with the burning coals and embers; leave it thus for
about half an hour, more or less, in proportion to the size of the
fish (this may be easily determined by experiment); when done,
remove it carefully from the ashes, and peel off the skin. The
clean pink flesh and delicious savor which now manifest themselves
will create an appetite where none before existed. All the delicate
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flavor and sweet juices of the fish are thus retained, and the trout
as food is then known in its perfection.
By the ordinary method of cooking, the trout loses much of its
original flavor by the evaporation of its juices; and although
a delicious morsel in any event, it is never fully appreciated
excepting after being roasted in the ashes, as above described.
The other method consists in rolling the fish in the Indian meal
and frying it in the frying-pan with a piece of the salt pork.
Seasoning as desired.
Partridges, ducks, quail, and other wild fowl are most delicious
when cooked in the ashes as described for the trout. The bird should
be drawn in the ordinary manner, and the inside washed perfectly
clean. It should then be embedded in the hot coals and ashes, the
feathers having been previously saturated with water. When done,
the skin and feathers will easily peel off, and the flesh will
be found to be wonderfully sweet, tender, and juicy. A stuffing
of pounded crackers and minced meat of any kind, with plenty of
seasoning, greatly improves the result, or the Indian meal may be
used if desired. A fowl thus roasted is a rare delicacy. A partridge,
squirrel, pigeon, woodcock, or any other game can be broiled as
well in the woods as at home, using a couple of green-branched
twigs for a spider or "toaster," and turning occasionally. For
this purpose the bird should be plucked of its feathers, cleanly
drawn and washed, and spread out by cutting down the back. Venison,
moose, or bear meat, can be deliciously roasted in joints of several
pounds before a good fire, using a green birch branch as a spit,
and resting it on two logs, situated on opposite sides of the fire.
The meat can thus be occasionally turned and propped in place by
a small stick, sprinkling occasionally with salt and pepper. The
above manner of making the fire is that adopted by most woodsmen.
Two large green logs, of several feet in length, being first laid
down at about three feet distant, between these the fire is built,
and when a kettle is used a heavy pole is so arranged as to project
and hold it over the fire. A cutlet of venison fried in the pan
is delicious, and a "Johnny cake" cooked in the fat of this meat
is a decided dainty.
With the above hints for a "rough and ready" campaign, we think
the young trapper ought to be able to get along quite comfortably.
We will now pass on to the consideration of what the average
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professional trapper would call "luxuries." The stock of these
depends much upon the location of the trapping ground. If accessible
by wagon or boat, or both, they may be carried in unlimited quantities,
but when they are to be borne on the back of the trapper through
a pathless wilderness of miles, the supply will, of course, have
to be cut short. When two or three start out together it becomes
much easier, one carrying the traps and tools; another the guns,
cooking utensils, etc.; the third confining his luggage to the food.
One of the most necessary requisites for a journey on foot consists
in a knapsack or large square basket, which can be easily strapped
to the back of the shoulders, thus leaving the hands free. Matches
are absolutely indispensable, and a good supply should be carried.
They should always be enclosed in a large-mouthed bottle with a
close fitting cork, to prevent their being damaged by moisture. For
further safety in this regard the matches may be rendered perfectly
water-proof by dipping their ends in thin mastic or shellac varnish.
If not at hand, this varnish can be easily made by dissolving a
small quantity of either sort of gum in three or four times its
bulk of alcohol. It is well to dip the whole stick in the solution,
thereby rendering the entire match impervious to moisture. Lucifer
matches are the best, and, when thus prepared, they may lay in
water for hours without any injury. It is a fearful thing to find
oneself in the wilderness, cold and hungry, and without the means
of lighting a fire, and to prepare for such an emergency it is
always advisable to be provided with a pocket sun glass. So long as
the sun shines a fire is thus always to be had, either by igniting
a small quantity of powder (which the trapper is always supposed
to carry) or using powdered "touch wood" or "punk tinder" in its
place. Fine scrapings from dry wood will easily ignite by the sun
glass, and by fanning the fire and adding additional fuel it will
soon burst into flame. In cloudy weather, and in the absence of
matches, a fire may easily be kindled by sprinkling a small quantity
of powder on a large flat stone, setting a percussion cap in its
midst, and covering the whole with dry leaves. A smart strike on
the cap with a hammer will have the desired result, and by heaping
additional fuel on the blazing leaves the fire soon reaches large
proportions. If the young trapper should ever be so unfortunate
as to find himself in the wild woods, chilled and hungry, minus
matches, powder, caps, and sun glass, he may as a last resort try
the following: Scrape some lint or cotton from some portion of
the garment, or some tinder from a dry stick, and lay it on the
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surface of some rough rock, white quartz rock if it can be found.
Next procure a fragment of the same stone, or a piece of steel from
some one of the traps, and strike its edge sharply, and with a
skipping stroke into the further side of the tinder, the direction
being such as will send the sparks thus produced into the inflammable
material. Continue this operation until the tinder ignites. By now
gently fanning the smoking mass it may easily be coaxed into flame.
At least so our Adirondack guide told us last summer. The author has
never had occasion to test the merits of the plan for himself, and
has no special desire of being so placed, as that his life will hang
upon its success. He presents it therefore as a mere suggestion
without endorsing its practicability, and would rather prefer matches
in the long run. The open fire generally serves both for purposes
of warmth and cooking, but by many, a camp stove is considered a
great improvement. Stoves of this character, and for this especial
purpose, are in the market. They are small and portable, with pipe
and furniture, all of which pack away closely into the interior.
A fire is easily started in one of these stoves, and, by closing
the damper, a slow fire may be kept up through the night. The stove
is generally set up at the entrance of the tent, the pipe passing
through the top, in a hole near the ridge pole. The furniture consists
of three pots or kettles, which pack easily into each other, and
when in the stove still leave ample room for a considerable amount
of provisions.
The kettles are made of block-tin, and frying-pans also, as these
are much more light and portable than those made of iron. The lid
may be used as a plate, and for this purpose the handle consists
of an iron ring, which will fold flat against the surface when
inverted. Knives, forks, and spoons are easily stowed away in the
stove or knapsack, and a coffee-pot should always be carried. There
is a knife known as the combination camp-knife, which is much used
by hunters and trappers, and contains a spoon, fork, knife, and
various other useful appendages, in a most compact form. It costs
from one to two dollars.
For provisions, potatoes will be found excellent, both on account
of their portability and the variety of ways in which they may be
served. They are healthy and nutritions, and always palatable.
Beans are also very desirable for the same reasons. Wheat flour will
form a valuable addition to the trapper's larder, and particularly
so, if the "self-raising" kind can be had. This
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flour contains all the required ingredients for light bread and
biscuit, and is sold by grocers generally, in packages of various
sizes, with accompanying recipes. We strongly recommend it where
a stove is employed; and to anyone who is fond of biscuit, bread,
or pancakes, it will be appreciated. Butter, lard, sugar, salt,
pepper and mustard are valuable accessories, and curry-powder,
olive oil, and vinegar will often be found useful. Olive oil is
often used by camping parties with the curry powder, and also as
a substitute for lard in the frying-pan. Pork, Indian meal and
crackers, wheaten grits, rice, and oat-meal are desirable, and
coffee and tea are great luxuries. For soups, Liebig's extract of
beef is a most valuable article, and with the addition of other
ingredients, vegetables or meat, the result is a most delicious and
nutritious dish. This extract is obtainable at almost any grocer's,
and full directions and recipes accompany each jar. Canned vegetables
are much to be desired on account of their portability, and are
never so delicious as when cooked over a camp fire. Lemonade is
always a luscious beverage, but never so much so as to a thirsty
trapper. A few lemons are easily carried and will repay the trouble.
All provisions, such as meal, flour, sugar, salt, crackers, and the
like, should be enclosed in water-proof canvas bags, and labelled.
The bags may be rendered water-proof either by painting, (in which
case no _lead_ or arsenic paints should be used) or by dipping in
the preparation described on page 247. If these are not used, a
rubber blanket, page 250, may be substituted, the eatables being
carefully wrapped therein, when not in use. The butter and lard
should be put up in air-tight jars, and should be kept in a cool
place, either on the ground in a shady spot, or in some cool spring.
For a campaign on foot, the knapsack, or shoulder-basket, already
alluded to on page 234, is an indispensable article. It should
be quite large and roomy, say fifteen inches in depth and ten by
twelve inches in its other dimensions. The material should be canvas,
rubber cloth, or wicker, and, in any case, the opening at the top
should have a water-proof covering extending well over the sides.
The straps may consist of old suspender bands, fastened crosswise
on the broad side of the bag. The capacity of such a knapsack is
surprising, and the actual weight of luggage seems half reduced
when thus carried on the shoulders. When three or four trappers
start together, which is the usual custom, and each is provided
with such a shoulder basket, the luggage can be thus divided, and
the load for each individual much lightened.
[Page 237]
Venison is the trapper's favorite food, and in mild weather it
sometimes happens that the overplus of meat becomes tainted before
it can be eaten. To overcome this difficulty the following process
is resorted to, for the preservation of the meat, and the result
is the well-known and high-priced "jerked venison" of our markets.
The flesh is first cut into small, thin strips, all the meat being
picked off from the bones. The pieces are then placed on the inside
of the hide of the animal and thoroughly mixed with salt, a pint
and a half being generally sufficient. The salt being well worked
in, the fragments should be carefully wrapped in the hide, and
suffered to remain in this condition for two or three hours. The
meat is then ready to be dried,--"jerked."
Four forked poles should be first driven into the ground, about
six feet apart, in the form of a square, the forks being four feet
above ground. Lay two poles of green wood across the forks on the
two opposite sides of the square, and cover the space between them
by other poles laid across them, an inch or two inches apart. On
to this mammoth gridiron the strips of flesh should now be spread,
and a steady fire of birch or other clean, fresh wood should be
kept steadily burning beneath for about twenty-four hours. At the
end of this time the meat will have reduced much in size and weight.
The salt will have been thoroughly _dried in_, and the flesh so
prepared may be kept for almost any length of time. In its present
condition it is excellent eating, and it is always at hand for
frying, and may be cooked in a variety of ways. Moose and bear meat
may be dried in a similar manner, using a proportionate amount of
salt. Fish may also be prepared in the same way, for which purpose
they should be scaled as usual and afterward spread open by cutting
down the back, the bone being removed. We cordially recommend this
method of preparing both flesh and fish, and no trapper's "recipe
book" is complete without it.
In localities where wolves abound, the nocturnal invasions of these
creatures often render the keeping of fresh meat a very difficult
task, and in this connection it may be well to give directions
for the preservation of game desired to be used either as fresh
meat or for purposes of drying.
The spring-pole is most commonly and successfully used.
Select some stout sapling, bend it down, and cut off a limb several
feet from the ground. Hang the meat in the crotch thus formed, and
allow the tree to swing back. By dividing the meat into several
parts it may thus all be protected. When
[Page 238]
a moose or deer is killed at such a time or place, or under such
circumstances as render its immediate dressing impossible, its
carcass may be defended against mutilation by another means. Wolves
are naturally sly and sagacious, and have a wholesome fear of a
trap. Any unnatural arrangement of logs and stones immediately
excites their suspicion, and the trapper takes advantage of this
wary peculiarity to good purpose. Laying his dead game near some
fallen tree or old log he strews a few branches over the carcass,
or perhaps rests a log over it. Sometimes he hangs the entrails of
the animal over the body, on a forked stick, anyone of which devices
is said to have the desired result. The wolverine is another pest to
the trapper, and not being so sly as the wolf, never hesitates to
pounce upon any flesh within its reach. The former method, therefore,
is always the safest plan for absolute protection against all animals.
The moose and deer are the favorite food of trappers in the country
where these animals abound, and the trappers of the Far West find
in the flesh of the Moufflon, or Rocky Mountain sheep, a delicacy
which they consider superior to the finest venison. The prong-horn
antelope of the Western plains is another favorite food-animal
with hunters, and the various "small game," such as squirrels,
rabbits, woodchucks, etc., are by no means to be despised. The
author once knew a trapper who was loud in his praises of "skunk
meat" for food, and many hunters can testify to its agreeable flavor
when properly dressed and cooked. It is hard, to be sure, to getup
much enthusiasm over a skunk, dead or alive, but where other food
is not to be had we would discourage the young trapper from being
too fastidious.
The buffalo, or bison, is the great resource of the trappers of the
West. The tongue, tenderloin and brisket are generally preferred,
but all the meat is eatable. The flesh of the cow is best. It much
resembles beef, but has a more gamey flavor. In winged game there
is no food superior to the flesh of the grouse, and the great number
of the species and wide range of territory which they inhabit render
them the universal food game of trappers throughout the world. The
ruffed grouse or partridge, pinnated grouse or prairie hen, spruce
or Canada grouse, and the cock-of-the-plains or sage cock, are
familiar American examples of the family, and their near relatives,
the ptarmigans, afford a valuable source of food to the trappers
and hunters, as well as general inhabitants of our northern cold
countries. Here they are known as "snow grouse," and there are
[Page 239]
several species. The willow ptarmigan is the most common, and in Rome
localities exists in almost incredible numbers. Flocks numbering
several thousand have been frequently seen by travellers in the
Hudson's Bay territory; and the surface of the snow in a desirable
feeding ground, is often completely covered by the birds, in quest
of the willow tops, which form their chief food during the winter
season. The Indians and natives secure the birds in large numbers,
by the trap described on page 75, and Hearne, the traveller and
explorer of the Hudson's Bay region, asserts that he has known over
three hundred to be thus caught in a single morning, by three persons.
Of water fowl, ducks and geese are especially to be recommended.
The former are hunted with decoys and boats, and are sometimes
trapped, as described on pages 94. The species are distinguished
as sea ducks and river or inland ducks. The latter are considered
the most desirable for food, being more delicate and less gamey in
flavor than the salt-water, or fish-eating varieties. The mallard,
teal, muscovy, widgeon, and wood-chuck are familiar species of the
inland birds, and the merganser and canvass-back are the two most
esteemed salt-water varieties. Wild geese are common throughout North
America, and may be seen either in the early spring or late fall
migrating in immense numbers. They form a staple article of food
in many parts of British America, and great numbers are salted down
for winter supply. They are trapped in large numbers, as described
on page 75, and are hunted with tame geese as decoys, the hunter
being secreted behind a screen or covert, and attracting the game
by imitating their cries.
Fish form an agreeable change to the trapper's diet, and may be
caught by the hook and line, or by spearing. The latter method
requires considerable practice and skill, but is very successful.
The Indians of the North are great experts in the use of the spear,
and the number of salmon taken by them annually is enormous. The
spear generally consists of five or six steel prongs an inch apart
and barbed at the ends. It is mounted on a heavy handle, and when it
strikes its victim its grip is sure death. The spearing is generally
performed either at the spawning beds or at the falls.
Salmon trout are generally speared in the night time by boat, the
spawning ground, generally a gravel bank near the shore, being
the seat of operations. A fire of pitch pine and birch bark is
ignited on an elevated "jack" in the bow of the boat, the "jack"
consisting of an ox-muzzle, or other concave wire contrivance
[Page 240]
which will hold the inflammable materials. This is secured to a
post or crotched stick, as a prop, and the spearman stands near
the burning mass with his spear in readiness. As his companion in
the stern of the boat paddles, he keenly watches for his victim,
and, seeing his opportunity, makes his lunge and lands his prize.
To become a successful spearman requires much practice and no small
degree of skill. To retain one's balance, acquire quickness of stroke,
and withal to regulate the aim so as to allow for the refraction of
the light in the water, all tend to invest the sport with a degree
of skill which only experience can master.
Fishing through the ice in winter is a rare sport, and large numbers
of brook and lake trout are often taken at this season by cutting
holes through the ice and fishing with hook and line. The baits
commonly used consist of cow's udder or hog's liver, these being
especially preferred on account of their toughness. Angle worms
are also excellent, and any kind of raw meat may be used if other
bait is not to be had.
It is asserted by some sportsmen that bait scented with assafoetida
is much more attractive to the fish, and will insure a capture
which would otherwise be impossible. Sweet cicily and anise are
also used for the same purpose. When the trout bite lively, fishing
through the ice is a most exciting sport, and by the aid of "tip-ups"
a single person may command a great number of lines. The winter
resort of the brook trout is in water two or three feet deep, over
sandy beds. The lake trout frequent deeper water.
The holes are made in the ice at intervals of one or two rods, and
a line set in each hole.
The "tip-up" consists of a narrow strip of lath or shingle, with
a hole bored through it near the large end. At this end the line
is attached, and the hook thrown in the water. A branch is now
inserted through the aperture, and its ends are rested across the
opening in the ice. No sooner does the fish bite than the long
end tips straight in the air, and thus betrays its captive. Ten
or fifteen of these contrivances will often keep one pretty busy,
and do good service. By some an ordinary cut fish pole, arranged on
a crotch, is used instead of the tip-ups just described. Pickerel
fishing through the ice is a favorite winter sport in many localities.
The line should be about thirty feet in length, and the bait should
consist of a small, live fish, hooked through the back. A small cork
float should be attached to the line at such a distance as will keep
[Page 241]
the bait above the bottom, and the superfluous line should be laid
in a loose coil near the hole, the end being attached to a small
switch or bush, stuck up in the ice near by. The pickerel, on taking
the bait, should be allowed to play out the whole line before being
pulled in, as the fish requires this time to fully swallow his
prey, after which the hook is sure to hold him firmly. Twenty or
thirty lines may thus be attended at once, the bush or twig acting
the part of a tip-up, or sentinel.
Pickerel spearing is another successful mode of capture during
the winter months. A large hole is made in the ice, in about two
feet of water, and covered by a spacious box or board hut, six or
seven feet square, and provided with a door. The spearman, concealed
within, lowers his bait, consisting of an artificial fish with
silver fins, made especially for the purpose. This he continually
twirls in the water, and as the pickerel approaches the bait, he
gradually raises it, until the fish is decoyed nearly to the surface
of the water, when a quick stroke of the spear secures his victim,
and the line is again lowered. This is capital sport, and is very
successful.
There is a very curious device for fishing by night commonly employed
by some anglers, and sometimes known as the "lantern, or fish trap."
Many kinds of fish are attracted by a light, but to use a light
as a bait, submerged beneath the water, certainly seems odd. It
may be done, however, in the following way: The "fish lantern"
used for this purpose consists of a bottle containing a solution
of phosphorus in sweet oil. Procure a piece of the stick phosphorus
the size of a small cherry, and submerging in a saucer of water,
proceed to cut it into small pieces. Have in readiness a three-ounce
white glass bottle half filled with sweet oil. Drop the pieces of
phosphorus into the oil and cork the bottle tightly. In the space
of a few hours the phosphorus will have been completely dissolved,
and the contents of the bottle will present a thick, luminous fluid,
which in a dark room, will afford considerable light. This is the
fish lantern. To use it, the cork is firmly inserted and the bottle,
with fish line attached, is lowered through the hole in the ice.
The water becomes luminous for several feet around, and the unusual
brightness attracts the fish in large numbers. They are plainly,
discernible, and are readily dispatched with the spear, or captured
by a circular net, sunk on the bottom, beneath the luminous bait.
This is certainly an odd way of catching fish, but it is often
a very efficacious method.
It has not been our intention to enter very extensively into
[Page 242]
the subject of fishing, but only to give such hints as will be
found especially useful and practical to the trapper in relation
to his food. The above methods, together with those of trolling
and fly-fishing, are those most commonly employed by trappers and
hunters generally, and we commend them to the amateur.
We give, on page 120, a unique device for the capture of fish, which
might also be found useful.
With the above general remarks on the campaign, together with what
follows in the detailed articles on the subject, we think that the
ground will have been completely covered. Every possible requirement
has been anticipated, and every ordinary emergency foreseen and
provided against.
THE TRAPPER'S SHELTER.
The life of the professional trapper is a life of hardship and
severe exposure, and a man not only requires considerable courage,
but also great bodily vigor, in order to combat successfully the
dangers of such a wild, adventuresome existence.
The cold and the storm not only imperil his life, but he is often
exposed to the attacks of wild beasts. A shelter, therefore, in one
form or another, becomes a necessity while it is always a decided
comfort, in comparison to a campaign without it.
The reader will find below descriptions of the various shelters
alluded to in other parts of this work, and used by trappers throughout
the land.
The most substantial of these is the log shanty, commonly known among
trappers as the "home shanty," on account of its being constructed
as the only permanent shelter on the trapping line.
It is used as a "home," a place of rendezvous, and a storehouse
for provisions, furs, and other necessities and valuables. Other
temporary shelters, known as bark shanties, are also constructed
along the trapping lines at intervals of five or ten miles, as
resting places. These we describe under the proper title.
Although, to the amateur trapper, the log shanty is not likely
to become a necessity, we will nevertheless describe its mode of
construction, in order to satisfy our more earnest and adventurous
readers, who aspire to a full taste of wild life.
Our illustration gives a very clear idea of such a shanty.
[Page 243]
[Illustration: THE HOME SHANTY.]
[Page 244]
It may be constructed of any size, but one of about twelve by ten
feet will be found large enough for ordinary purposes. Select straight
logs, about eight inches in diameter. The whole number required
will be thirty-six. Of these one-half should be twelve feet in
length and the other ten. These should now be built up in the square
form, on a level piece of ground, laying the ends of the logs over
each other, and securing them by notches at the corners, so deep as
to allow the edges of the logs to meet. Lay two short logs first,
and continue building until all the thirty-six logs are used, and
we will now have four symmetrical sides about six feet in height.
The place for the door should now be selected. The uppermost log
should form its upper outline, and the two sides should be cleanly
and straightly cut with a crosscut saw. The window openings, one or
more, may next be cut, commencing beneath the second log from the
top, and taking in three beneath it. Replace the logs above, and
on the ends of those thus cut, both in windows and doors, proceed
to spike a heavy plank, driving two nails into each log, about
five inches apart, one above the other. This will hold them firmly
in place, and offer a close-fitting jam for the door, and neat
receptacle for the window sashes, which latter may now be put in
after the ordinary manner.
The gable ends should next be built upon the smaller sides of the
hut. Commence by laying a long log (notched as before) across the
top of the frame work, and about two feet inside the edge. This
should of course be done on both sides of the hut, after which
they should be overlapped at the corners with logs eight feet in
length. Next lay two more long logs, parallel with the first two,
and about a foot inside them, notching as before. The ends of these
should be spanned with beams eight feet in length. Two more long
logs are next in order--let them be one foot inside the last two.
Overlap these with beams five feet and a half in length, and in
the exact centre of these last pieces chop notches for a heavy
log for a ridge pole. The gable outline, direct from the ridge
pole to the eaves, should now be cut off by the aid of a sharp
axe. This may be done either while the pieces are in position, or
the line may be marked with a piece of chalk, and the logs taken
down in order to accomplish it. The roof is now required. This
should consist either of strips of bark or the rounded sides of
logs split off and hollowed into troughs. The latter method is
preferable, on account of its greater strength and durability,
but the bark will answer the purpose very well, and is much more
easily obtained. The manner of adjusting the roof pieces is clearly
[Page 245]
shown in our illustration. The first row is laid on with the hollow
side up, securing them at top and bottom by nails driven through each
into the ridge pole and eaves-log, care being taken that one of these
pieces projects well over the gable, on both ends of the hut. These
pieces are now overlapped by the second row, and with the addition
of the large piece which covers them all at the ridge pole, the
roof is complete, and will stand a heavy rain with little or no
leaking. The crevices should now be stopped with moss, dried grass
or clay, after which the log cabin is complete. When the bark roof
is made, additional poles may be inserted beneath as props. They
should be three or four inches in diameter, and run parallel with
the ridge pole, at intervals on the slope, notches being cut to
secure them.
Our engraving represents a chimney, which may be constructed if
desired, but the necessity of this may be done away with by using
a small camp stove, and making a small opening in the gable end
of the hut for the passage of the pipe. If it stove should not
be at hand, and our amateur should decide to "rough it" to the
full extent, he may build his fire-place and chimney as follows:
It will be necessary to cut away an opening in the logs at the
gable end, as was done for the door and windows. This should be
about three feet square, and the fire place should be built of
stone and clay, or cement, to fill the opening, and project inside
the hut.
The chimney may then be built up outside in the same manner,
sufficiently high to overtop the gables.
Inside the hut overhead will be found abundant room for the hanging
of the skins, and any number of cross-poles may be rested across
the beams. There are facilities for the swinging of a hammock,
if desired, and, in fact, a hut constructed like the foregoing
is a perfect one in its way. There are other methods of building
a log cabin, but we will content ourselves with what we consider
the _best_ way of all, and pass on to the
BARK SHANTY.
This is made by first driving into the ground two forked poles
seven or eight feet in height and stout enough to sustain a ridge
pole of moderate size. Against this ridge pole other poles should
be rested at intervals of two feet, and sloping to the angle of
forty-five degrees. The frame-work thus formed should now be covered
with bark, commencing at the ground and allowing the edge of each
piece to overlap the one beneath
[Page 246]
after the manner of shingles, in order to shed the rain in case
of storm. Spruce or birch bark are excellent for this purpose,
and the pieces may be secured with nails, and kept flat by the
weight of another series of poles rested against them. The sides
of the shelter should be treated similarly, the front being usually
left open to face the fire, which the trapper generally builds a
few feet distant. In constructing a bark shanty, it is well to
select some spot protected from the wind, close to the foot of a
mountain or in the midst of trees, always letting the open side
face the direction most sheltered.
If desired, the front can be enclosed after the manner of the sides
and top, but this is not required where the fire is used.
This style of shelter is represented in our page title to this section,
and certainly looks very comfortable.
TENTS.
Shanties like the foregoing are in general use among the old veteran
trappers of all countries, and even to the amateur there is a charm
in a shelter constructed from the rude materials of the woods which
the portable tents do not possess.
Tents, however, are much used both by professionals and amateurs,
and are indeed valuable acquisitions to the trapper's outfit, and
where time is valuable, do away with the labor which the construction
of a hut or shanty involves.
Tents are of several kinds. Those most commonly used by the trapper
are the house-tent, fly-tent, and half-tent, or shelter-tent.
The first of these is made for prop-poles and a ridge pole, closed
on one end and buttoning up at the other. The sides are perpendicular
for two or three feet, before the slope commences, and the stay-ropes
are fastened to the eaves.
The fly-tent is generally a large, square piece of canvas, with
ropes extending from opposite sides. This is thrown over a ridge
pole, or over a rope extending between two trees, and the sides
are held to the proper slope by tightening and pegging the side
ropes to the ground. Fly-tents are also made with ends, which can
be lowered, and the whole tent may be pegged close to the ground.
The shelter-tent, when erected, resembles, in general shape, the
bark shanty already described. It consists of a strip of canvas,
having each end cut off to a point. The tent is pitched over three
slanting poles, and the ends are brought down and securely pegged.
This is clearly shown in our illustration.
[Page 247]
[Illustration]
We do not propose giving any extended directions for making tents,
as they are a staple article of trade, and, as a general thing, can
be bought for a figure which would render their domestic manufacture
of little saving or profit. The shelter-tent, however, is so useful
an affair, and withal so very simple made, that we will give a few
directions in regard to its manufacture. It should be made from
stout _cotton drilling_, or very heavy sheeting. Let the piece
be about thirteen feet in length by six in width. Each end of the
piece should now be cut to a rectangular point, commencing to cut
at a distance of three feet from each corner. In order to render
the cloth waterproof, it should now be dipped in a pail containing
a solution of equal parts of alum and sugar of lead, a couple of
handfuls of each, in tepid water. It should be allowed to remain
several minutes in soak, being dipped and turned occasionally,
after which it should be spread out to dry. This treatment not
only renders the cloth impervious to rain, but the alum tends to
make it fire-proof also. A spark from the fire falling upon a tent
thus prepared, will often rest upon the cloth until it goes out,
without doing the slightest damage.
[Page 248]
The manner of pitching the tent has already been alluded to, and
is clear from our illustration. The poles should be three or four
in number, and seven feet in length, inserted in the ground at the
angle denoted. The two outside poles should be seven feet apart,
and the intermediate ones equally disposed. The tent piece should
now be laid over the poles, and the ends brought down and pegged
to the ground at the apex, and rear corners of each side through
loops, which should have been previously attached to these parts.
A tent, thus arranged, affords a safe shelter from the wind or
a moderate storm, and with a bright fire in front, is warm and
comfortable.
BEDS AND BEDDING.
[Illustration]
Many a trapper does away with these commodities, merely rolling
himself in a blanket and using his arm for a pillow; but we do
not propose to encourage or recommend any such half-way comfort as
this, when by a very little labor a portable bed can be prepared
on which the weary hunter can rest as serenely as if slumbering
on the congenial softness of a hair mattress. A bed of this kind
we illustrate, and it can be made in the following manner: Procure
a large piece of canvas, sacking or other strong, coarse material
six and a half feet square. If a single piece of this size cannot
be found, several parts may he sewed together to the required
dimensions. After which two opposite sides should be firmly stitched
[Page 249]
together, thus forming a bottomless bag, if we may be allowed to use
the expression. Two stout poles seven or eight feet in length and as
large as the wrist should now be cut. Insert them through the bag,
allowing the ends to project equally on each side. These ends should
now be rested on two logs, one placed across each end of the canvas.
In order to hold the poles in place notches should be cut in the logs
at such distances as will draw the bag to its full width. The interior
of the canvas should now be filled with dried grass, leaves, moss
or spruce boughs, after which the bedstead and bed is complete.
The yielding elasticity of the poles and the softness of the warm
filling in the bag, give the effect of a spring and straw mattress
combined, lifting the sleeper above the cold, damp ground, and by
the addition of a blanket above, insuring warmth on all sides. If
the logs are not at hand four forked stakes may be used, driving
them firmly into the ground at such distances as will draw the
bag to its full width, when the poles are rested upon them. If
by the weight of the body the forked props should tend to incline
towards each other this trouble may be easily remedied by inserting
short poles as braces between them. If desired a bed of this kind
may be used as a hammock and hung in a tree without much trouble.
It is only necessary to secure the long poles firmly at their full
width by a stout brace pole at the ends, letting the latter be
deeply notched at the tips in order to receive the bed supports.
The joints should then be tightly bound with stout twine in order
to prevent slipping, after which the bed may be hung in mid-air
by ropes at each end, and the tired trapper may swing himself to
sleep with perfect comfort and safety. For this purpose the ropes
should be attached at the joints, using a loop of six feet for
each end. In the centre of this loop a small one should be made
by doubling the rope and winding twine about it, leaving only a
small aperture. Through these small loops, by the aid of other
ropes, the bed is attached to the tree. By using this precaution
the unpleasant experience of being turned or dumped out of bed
will be impossible. For bed clothes a woollen blanket should always
be carried, and if convenient a large bag of thick Canton flannel
is a most excellent acquisition.
Bags of this sort are in common use among amateur trappers, hunters
and camping parties, and are very warm and comfortable. They should
be nearly seven feet in length and of a "loose, easy fit." With
one of these contrivances it is impossible to "kick the clothes
off" and the warmth is continual instead
[Page 250]
of "intermittent," and even on the bare ground it is said to be
sufficient protection. Hammocks are also in very general use, but
we can confidently recommend the suspended bed above described
as decidedly preferable.
There are various kinds of hammocks in the market, from the light
fibered silk, weighing only a few ounces, to the large corded variety
of several pounds weight and capable of holding many persons. They
are an established article of trade, and as the details of their
manufacture would be of little practical use to the reader, we
will leave them without further consideration. They can be had at
almost any sporting emporium, at comparatively small cost.
TENT CARPETING.
We have described a most excellent contrivance for a bedstead and
recommend its use whenever possible; but when the bed is desired
to be made on the ground the following method is usually employed,
by which the whole interior of the tent, hut or shanty is carpeted
with a soft, even covering of green.
Spruce or hemlock boughs are generally used, and should be from
the tips of the branches where the wood is not too large. Commence
at the back part of the shelter, and lay down a row of the boughs
with the butt of the branch towards the front. Overlap these with
another nearer row and continue the operation, laying the evergreen
as evenly as possible until the whole interior is smoothly covered.
The projecting ends at the front, should now be secured by the
weight of a medium sized log, or by a pole pegged down firmly at
intervals. A similar log should now be laid at the back portion
of the shelter over the tips of the boughs after which the bed
is complete, and will be found easy and comfortable in proportion
to the care and skill shown in its construction. A blanket should
be thrown over the boughs before reclining to rest, as the fresh
green gives forth considerable dampness.
If possible a rubber blanket should be used for this purpose. These
consist of thick Canton flannel, coated on one side with Indian
rubber, and are used with the rubber side down. They are warm and
comfortable, and a valuable acquisition to the trapper's outfit.
There is a thinner and cheaper variety, having equal water-proof
qualities but which does not possess the warmth of the former.
Either will be found useful.
So much for beds and bedding. If the reader will now turn
[Page 251]
his attention to the following section, "The Trapper's Miscellany,"
he will find much in detail of what has only been alluded to in the
present chapter, besides other hints of great value in reference
to a trapping campaign.
[Illustration]
[Page 253]
[Illustration: THE TRAPPERS' MISCELLANY]
[Page 255]