MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS.
THE COMMON BOX TRAP.
[Illustration: T]he following chapter includes a variety of traps
which have not been covered by any of the previous titles. Several
novelties are contained in the list, and also a number of well
known inventions.
There is probably no more familiar example of the trap kind than
that of the common wooden box-trap, better known, perhaps, by our
country boys as the rabbit-trap. A glance at our illustration, will
readily bring it to mind, and easily explain its working to those
not particularly acquainted with it. These traps may be made of any
size, but, being usually employed in catching rabbits, require to
be made quite large. They should be made of hard seasoned wood--oak
or chestnut is the best--and of slabs about an inch in thickness.
The pieces may be of the following dimensions: let the bottom board
be 20+7 in.; side board, 20+9 in.; lid board 19+7 in., and the
end piece of lid 7 in. square.
The tall end piece should be about 16 inches high by 7 broad. Let
this be sharpened on the upper end, as seen in the engraving, and
furnished with a slight groove on the summit, for the reception
of the cord. Now to put the pieces together.
Nail the two sides to the edge of the bottom board, and fit in
between them the high end piece, securing that also, with nails
through the bottom and side boards. Next nail the lid board on
to the small, square end piece, and fit the lid thus made neatly
into its place.
To make the hinge for the lid, two small holes should be bored
through the sides of the trap, about four inches from the tall end,
and half an inch from the upper edge of each board. Let
[Page 104]
small nails now be driven through these holes into the edge of the
lid, and it will be found to work freely upon them.
[Illustration]
The principal part of the trap is now made, but what remains to be
done is of great importance. The "spindle" is a necessary feature
in nearly all traps, and the box-trap is useless without it. In
this case it should consist merely of a round stick of about the
thickness of a lead pencil, and we will say, 7 or 8 in. in length.
One end should be pointed and the other should have a small notch
cut in it, as seen in the separate drawing of the stick. The spindle
being ready, we must have some place to put it. Another hole should
be bored through the middle of the high end piece, and about 4 in.
from the bottom. This hole should be large enough to allow the
spindle to pass easily through it. If our directions have been
carefully followed, the result will now show a complete, closefitting
trap.
In setting the trap there are two methods commonly employed, as
shown at _a_ and _b_. The string, in either case, must be fastened
to the end of the lid.
In the first instance (_a_) the lid is raised and made fast by the
brace, holding itself beneath the tip of the projecting spindle,
and a nail or plug driven into the wood by the side of the hole.
[Page 105]
Of course, when the spindle is drawn or moved from the inside the
brace will be let loose and the lid will drop.
In the other method (_b_) the spindle is longer, and projects several
inches on the outside of the hole. The brace is also longer, and
catches itself in the notch on the end of the spindle, and another
slight notch in the board, a few inches above the hole.
[Illustration]
When the bait is touched from the inside, the brace easily flies
out and the lid falls, securing its victim. Either way is sure
to succeed, but if there is any preference it is for the former
(_a_). It is a wise plan to have a few holes through the trap in
different places, to allow for ventilation, and it may be found
necessary to line the cracks with tin, as sometimes the enclosed
creature might otherwise gnaw through and make its escape. If there
is danger of the lid not closing tightly when sprung, a stone may
be fastened upon it to insure that result.
This trap is usually set for rabbits, and these dimensions are
especially calculated with that idea. Rabbits abound in all our
woods and thickets, and may be attracted by various baits. An apple
is most generally used. The box-trap may be made of smaller dimensions,
and set in trees for squirrels with very good success.
There is still another well known form of this trap represented
in the tail piece at the end of this section. The box is first
constructed of the shape already given, only having the lid piece
[Page 106]
nailed firmly in the top of the box. The tall end piece is also
done away with. The whole thing thus representing a simple oblong
box with one end open. Two slender cleats should be nailed on each
side of this opening, on the interior of the box, to form a groove
into which a square end board may easily slide up and down, the
top board being slightly sawn away to receive it. An upright stick
should then be erected on the top centre of the box, in the tip of
which a straight stick should be pivoted, working easily therein,
like the arms of a balance. To one end of this balance, the end
board should be adjusted by two screw eyes, and to the other the
string with spindle attached. By now lowering the spindle to its
place, the further end of the balance will be raised and with it
the end board, and on the release of the spindle the board will
fall. This plan is quite commonly adopted but we rather prefer
the former. But as each has its advantages we present them both.
ANOTHER BOX TRAP.
This works after the manner of the ordinary wire rat-trap; our
illustration explains itself.
[Illustration]
The box should be of the shape there shown, with one of its end
pieces arranged on hinges so as to fall freely. An elastic should
be fastened from the inside of this end to the inner surface of
the top of the box, to insure its closing. If desired an elastic
may be adjusted at the side as shown in the cut and a catch piece
of stout tin should be attached to the bottom of the trap to secure
the lid when it falls. A small hole should then be bored in the
top, near the further end of the trap, and
[Page 107]
the spindle, having a notch on its upper end, passed through the
hole thus made. The top of the spindle is shown at (_a_). It should
be held in its place by a small plug or pin through it, below the
surface of the box. A slender stick, long enough to reach and catch
beneath the notch in the spindle should now be fastened to the lid
and the trap is complete. It may be baited with cheese, bread,
and the like, and if set for squirrels, an apple answers every
purpose.
When constructed on a larger and heavier scale it may be used for
the capture of rabbits and animals of a similar size, but for this
purpose the previous variety is preferable.
THE FIGURE FOUR TRAP.
[Illustration]
One of the most useful as well as the most ancient inventions in
the way of traps is the common _Figure Four Trap_, which forms
the subject of our next illustration. It is a very ingenious
contrivance, and the mechanism, consists merely of three sticks.
It possesses great advantages in the fact that it may be used in
a variety of ways, and a number of the machines may be carried by
the young trapper with very little inconvenience. Our illustration
shows the trap already set, only awaiting for a slight touch at
the bait to bring the heavy stone to the ground. A box may be
substituted for the stone, and the animal may thus be
[Page 108]
captured alive. The three sticks are represented separate at _a_.
_b_. and _c_. Of course, there is no regular size for them, as this
would greatly depend upon the purpose for which they are designed
to be used. If for rabbits, the following proportions will answer
very well. The sticks should all be square, and about half an inch
in thickness. The bait-stick, (_a_) should be about nine or ten
inches in length, one end being pointed and the other furnished
with a notch, as indicated. The upright stick, (_b_) should be
a little shorter, one end being whittled to a rather sharp edge.
At about three or four inches from the other end, and on the side
next to that whittled, a square notch should be cut. This should
be about a third of an inch in depth and half an inch in width,
being so cut as exactly to receive the bait-stick without holding
it fast. The remaining stick (_c_) should have a length of about
seven or eight inches, one end being whittled, as in the last,
to an edge, and the other end furnished with a notch on the same
side of the stick.
[Illustration]
When these are finished, the trap may be set in the following manner:
Place the upright stick, (_b_) with its pointed end uppermost.
Rest the notch of the slanting stick, (_c_) on the summit of the
upright stick, placing the stone upon its end, and holding the
stick in position with the hand. By now hooking the notch in the
bait-stick on the sharpened edge of the slanting stick and fitting
it into the square notch in the upright, it may easily be made to
catch and hold itself in position. The bait should always project
beneath the stone. In case a box is used instead of a stone, the
trap may be set either inside of it or beneath its edge. Where the
ground is very soft, it would be well to rest the upright stick
on a chip or small flat stone, as otherwise it is apt to sink into
the earth by degrees and spring by itself.
When properly made, it is a very sure and sensitive trap, and the
bait, generally an apple, or "nub" of corn is seldom more than
touched when the stone falls.
[Page 109]
THE "DOUBLE ENDER."
[Illustration]
This is what we used to call it in New England and it was a great
favorite among the boys who were fond of rabbit catching. It was
constructed of four boards two feet in length by nine inches in
breath secured with nails at their edges, so as to form a long
square box. Each end was supplied with a heavy lid working on two
hinges. To each of these lids a light strip of wood was fastened,
the length of each being sufficient to reach nearly to the middle
of the top of the box, as seen in the illustration. At this point
a small auger hole was then made downward through the board. A
couple of inches of string was next tied to the tip of each stick
and supplied with a large knot at the end. The trap was then set on
the simple principle of which there are so many examples throughout
the pages of this work. The knots were lowered through the auger
hole and the insertion of the bait stick inside the box held them
in place. The edge of the bottom board on each end of the trap
should be supplied with a tin catch such as is described on page
88 in order to hold the lid in place after it has fallen. No matter
from which end the bait is approached it is no sooner touched than
both ends fall and "_bunny_" is prisoner. Like many other of our
four-footed game, the rabbit manifests a peculiar liking for salt
and may be regularly attracted to a given spot by its aid. A salted
cotton string is sometimes extended several yards from the trap
for the purpose of leading them to it, but this seems a needless
precaution, as the rabbit is seldom behind hand in discerning a
tempting bait when it is within his reach.
[Page 110]
THE SELF SETTING TRAP.
One of the oldest known principles ever embodied in the form of a
trap is that which forms the subject of the accompanying illustration.
It is very simple in construction, sure in its action; and as its
name implies, resets itself after each intruder has been captured.
[Illustration]
It is well adapted for Rabbits and Coons and when made on a small
scale, may be successfully employed in taking rats and mice. It
is also extensively used in the capture of the Mink and Muskrat,
being set beneath the water, near the haunts of the animals and
weighted by a large stone. Of course the size of the box will be
governed by the dimensions of the game for which it is to be set.
Its general proportions should resemble those of the illustration,
both ends being open. A small gate, consisting of a square piece
of wood supplied with a few stiff wires is then pivoted inside
each opening, so as to work freely and fall easily when raised.
The bait is fastened inside at the centre of the box. The animal,
in quest of the bait, finds an easy entrance, as the wires lift
at a slight pressure, but the exit after the gate has closed is
so difficult that escape is almost beyond the question.
The wires should be so stiff as to preclude the possibility of them
being bent by struggles of the imprisoned creature in his
[Page 111]
efforts to escape, and to insure further strength it is advisable
to connect the lower ends of the wires by a cross piece of finer
wire, twisted about each.
The simultaneous capture of two rabbits in a trap of this kind is
a common occurrence.
THE DEAD-FALL.
In strolling through the woods and on the banks of streams in the
country, it is not an uncommon thing to stumble against a contrivance
resembling in general appearance our next illustration. Throughout
New England, the "dead-fall," as this is called, has always been
a most popular favorite among trappers, young and old; and there
is really no better rough and ready trap for large game. To entrap
a fox by any device is no easy matter; but the writer remembers
one case where Reynard was outwitted, and the heavy log of the
"dead-fall" put a speedy end to his existence. The trap was set in
a locality where the fox had made himself a nuisance by repeated
nocturnal invasions among the poultry, and the bait was cleverly
calculated to decoy him. A live duck was tied within the pen, and
the morsel proved too tempting for him to resist. Thrusting his
head beneath the suspended log, in order to reach his prey, he thus
threw down the slender framework of support; and the log, falling
across his neck, put him to death.
[Illustration]
Our illustration gives a very correct idea of the general construction
of the "dead-fall," although differing slightly in its mode of
setting from that usually employed.
[Page 112]
A pen of rough sticks is first constructed, having an open front.
A log about seven or eight feet in length, and five or six inches
in diameter, should then be procured. An ordinary fence rail will
answer the purpose very well, although the log is preferable. Its
large end should be laid across the front of the pen, and two stout
sticks driven into the ground outside of it, leaving room for it
to rise and fall easily between them and the pen, a second shorter
log being placed on the ground beneath it, as described for the
bear-trap, page (17). A look at our illustration fully explains
the _setting_ of the parts. A forked twig, about a foot in length,
answers for the bait-stick. The lower end should be pointed, and
the fork, with its bait, should incline toward the ground, when
set. The upper end should be supplied with a notch, square side
down, and directly above the branch which holds the bait. Another
straight stick, about fourteen inches in length, should then be
cut. Make it quite flat on each end. A small thin stone, chip of
wood, or the like, is the only remaining article required. Now
proceed to raise the log, as shown in the drawing, place one end
of the straight stick beneath it, resting its tip on the flat top
of the upright stick on the outside of the log. The baitstick should
now be placed in position inside the inclosure, resting the pointed
end on the chip, and securing the notch above, as seen in the
illustration, beneath the tip of the flat stick. When this is done,
the trap is set, but, there are a few little hints in regard to
setting it finely,--that is, surely,--which will be necessary.
It is very important to avoid bringing too much of the weight of
the log on the flat stick, as this would of course bear heavily on
the bait-stick, and render considerable force necessary to spring
the trap. The leverage at the point where the log rests on the flat
stick should be very slight, and the log should be so placed that
the upright shall sustain nearly all the weight. By this method,
very little pressure is brought to bear on the bait-stick, and a
very slight twitch will throw it out of poise. The fork of the
bait-stick should point to the side of the inclosure, as, in this
case, when the bait is seized by the unlucky intruder, the very
turning of the fork forces the notch from beneath the horizontal
stick, and throws the parts asunder.
If the trap is set for muskrats, minks, skunks, or animals of similar
size, the weight of the log will generally be found sufficient to
effect their death; but, if desired, a heavy stone
[Page 113]
may be rested against it, or the raised end weighted with other
logs (see p. 18), to make sure. When set for a coon or fox, this
precaution is necessary. To guard against the cunning which some
animals possess, it is frequently necessary to cover the top of the
pen with cross-sticks, as there are numerous cases on record where
the intended victims have climbed over the side of the inclosure, and
taken the bait from the inside, thus keeping clear of the suspended
log, and springing the trap without harm to themselves. A few sticks
or branches laid across the top of the inclosure will prevent any
such capers; and the crafty animals will either have to take the
bait at the risk of their lives, or leave it alone.
For trapping the muskrat, the bait may consist of carrots, turnips,
apples, and the like. For the mink, a bird's head, or the head
of a fowl, is the customary bait; and the skunk may usually be
taken with sweet apples, meats, or some portion of a dead fowl.
In the case of the fox, which we have mentioned, the setting of the
trap was somewhat varied; and in case our readers might desire to
try a similar experiment, we will devote a few lines to a description
of it. In this instance, the flat stick which supported the log was
not more than eight inches in length; and instead of the bait-stick,
a slight framework of slender branches was substituted. This frame or
lattice-work was just large enough to fill the opening of the pen,
and its upper end supported the flat stick. The duck was fastened
to the back part of the pen, which was also closed over the top.
The quacking of the fowl attracted the fox; and as he thrust his
head through the lattice to reach his prey, the frame was thrown
out of balance and Reynard paid the price of his greed and folly.
There is another mode of adjusting the pieces of the dead-fall,
commonly employed by professional trappers, whereby the trap is sprung
by the foot of the animal in quest of the bait. This construction
is shown correctly in the accompanying cut, which gives the front
view, the pen being made as before. The stout crotch represented
at (_a_) is rested on the summit of a strong peg, driven into the
ground beneath the _outside edge_ of the suspended log; (_b_) is
the treacherous stick which seals the doom of any animal that dares
rest his foot upon it. This piece should be long enough to stretch
across and overlap the guard-pegs at each side of the opening. To
set the trap, rest the short crotch of (_a_) on the top of the
peg, and lower the log upon it, keeping the leverage slight, as
directed in our last example, letting much of the weight come on the
[Page 114]
top of the peg. The long arm of the crotch should be pressed inward
from the front, and one end of the stick (_b_) should then be caught
between its extreme tip, and the upright peg about ten inches above
the ground. By now fastening the bait to a peg at the back part of
the pen, the affair is in working order, and will be found perfectly
reliable. The ground log (_d_) being rested in place as seen in
the illustration. To make assurance doubly sure, it is well to cut
a slight notch in the upright stick at (_c_) for the reception of
the foot-piece (_b_). By this precaution the stick, when lowered,
is bound to sink at the right end, thus ensuring success.
[Illustration]
The Figure-Four Trap, already described in another part of this
book, is also well adapted to the dead-fall, and is much used.
It should be made of stout pieces and erected at the opening of
the pen, with the bait pointing toward the interior, the heavy
log being poised on its summit.
THE GARROTE.
There is another variety of trap, somewhat resembling the dead-fall,
but which seizes its prey in a little different manner.
[Page 115]
This trap, which we will call the _Garrote_, is truly represented
by our illustration. A pen is first constructed, similar to that of
the dead-fall. At the opening of the pen, two arches are fastened
in the ground. They should be about an inch apart. A stout forked
stick should then be cut, and firmly fixed in the earth at the
side of the arches, and about three feet distant.
[Illustration]
Our main illustration gives the general appearance of the trap,
but we also subjoin an additional cut, showing the "setting" or
arrangement of the pieces. They are three in number, and consist:
First, of a notched peg, which is driven into the ground at the back
part of the pen, and a little to one side. Second, of a forked twig,
the branch of which should point downward with the bait attached to
its end. The third stick being the little hooked piece catching
beneath the arches. The first of these is too simple to need
description. The second should be about eight inches long; a notch
should be cut in each end. The upper one being on the side from
which the branch projects, and the other on the _opposite_ side
of the stick, and at the other end, as is made plain by our
illustration. The third stick may consist merely of a hooked crotch
of some twig, as this is always to be found. Indeed, nearly _all_
the parts of this trap may be found in any woods; and, with the
exception of a jack-knife, bait, and string, the trapper need not
trouble himself to carry any materials whatever. When the three
pieces are thus made the trap only awaits the "Garrote." This should
be made from a stiff pole, about six feet in length, having a heavy
stone tied to its large end, and a loop of the shape of the letter
U, or a slipping noose, made of stout cord or wire, fastened
[Page 116]
at the smaller end. To arrange the pieces for their destructive
work, the pole should be bent down so that the loop shall fall
between the arches. The "crotch stick" should then be hooked beneath
the front of the arch, letting its arm point inward. After this
the bait stick should be placed in its position, with the bait
pointing downward, letting one end catch beneath the notch in the
ground-peg, and the other over the tip of the crotch stick. This
done, and the trap is set.
[Illustration]
Like the dead-fall, the bait stick should point toward the side
of the pen, as the turning involved in pulling it toward the front
is positively _sure_ to slip it loose from its catches. Be careful
to see that the loop is nicely arranged between the arches, and that
the top of the pen is covered with a few twigs. If these directions
are carefully followed, and if the young trapper has selected a
good trapping ground, it will not be a matter of many days before
he will discover the upper portion of the arches occupied by some
rabbit, muskrat, or other unlucky creature, either standing on its
hind legs, or lifted clean off the ground. Coons are frequently
secured by this trap, although, as a general thing, they don't
show much enthusiasm over traps of any kind, and seem to prefer
to get their food elsewhere, rather than take it off the end of
a bait stick.
THE BOW TRAP.
This most excellent and unique machine is an invention of the author's,
and possesses great advantages, both on account of its durability
and of the speedy death which it inflicts.
[Illustration]
Procure a board about two feet in length, by five or six in width,
and commencing at about nine inches from one end, cut a hole four
or more inches square. This may readily be done with a narrow saw,
by first boring a series of gimlet holes in which to insert it.
There will now be nine inches of board on one side of the hole
and eleven on the other. The shorter end constituting the top of
the trap. On the upper edge of the hole
[Page 117]
a row of stout tin teeth should be firmly tacked, as seen in the
illustration. On the other side of the cavity, and three inches
from it a small auger hole (the size of a lead pencil), should
be bored. After which it should be sand-papered and polished on
the interior, by rubbing with some smooth, hard tool, inserted
inside. A round plug of wood should next be prepared. Let it be
about half an inch in length, being afterwards bevelled nearly
the whole length of one side, as shown at (_b_), leaving a little
over an eighth of an inch of the wood unwhittled. This little piece
of wood is the most important part, of the trap, and should be made
very carefully. The remaining end of the board below the auger
hole should now be whittled off to a point, in order that it may be
driven into the ground. The next requisites consist of two pieces
of wood, which are seen at the sides of the square hole, in our
illustration, and also seen at (_c_), side view. These
[Page 118]
pieces should be about six inches in length and about an inch square.
A thin piece being cut off from one side of each, to the distance
of four inches, and ending in a square notch. The other end should
be rounded off, as is also there plainly indicated. Before adjusting
the pieces in place, two tin catches should be fastened to the
board, one on each side of the hole. This catch is shown at (_d_),
and consists merely of a piece of tin, half an inch in width, and
three-quarters of an inch in length, tacked to the wood, and having
its end raised, as indicated. Its object is to hold the bow-string
from being pulled down after once passing it. The upper edge of
these catch-pieces should be about an inch and a half from the top
of the hole, and, if desired, two or three of them may be arranged
one above the other, so that wherever the string may stop against
the neck of the inmate it will be sure to hold. The catches being
in place, proceed to adjust the pieces of wood, letting the notch
be on a line with the top of the pole, or a little above it. Each
piece should be fastened with two screws to make secure.
We will now give our attention to the bait stick. This should be
about six inches in length, and square, as our illustration shows.
There are two ways of attaching the bait-stick to the board, both
shown at (_e_) and (_f_). The former consists merely of a screw
eye inserted into the end of the stick, afterwards hinged to the
board by a wire staple. The point for the hinge, in this case,
should be about an inch below the auger hole. In the other method
(_f_), the bait stick should be a half inch longer, and the spot
for the hinge a quarter inch lower. At about a quarter of an inch
from the square end of the bait stick a small hole should be made
by the use of a hot wire. An oblong mortice should next be cut
in the board, so as to receive this end of the stick easily. A
stout bit of wire should then be inserted in the little hole in
the stick, and laying this across the centre of the mortice, it
should be thus secured by two staples, as the drawing shows. This
forms a very neat and simple hinge. To determine the place for
the catch, insert the flat end of the little plug fairly into the
auger-hole above the hinge. Draw up the bait stick, and at the
point where it comes in contact with the point of the plug, cut
a square notch, as shown in (_b_). Everything now awaits the bow.
This should be of hickory or other stout wood; it is well to have
it seasoned, although a stout sapling will answer the purpose very
well. It should be fastened to the top of the board by two heavy
staples, or nails driven on each side of it. The string should
be _heavy_ Indian twine. Our
[Page 119]
illustration shows the trap, as it appears when ready for business.
The plug is inserted, as already described, with the bevelled face
downward, and square end in the hole. Draw down the bow-string and
pass it beneath the plug, at the same time catching the tip of
the latter in the notch of the bait stick. If properly constructed
the string will thus rest on the slight uncut portion of the under
side of the peg, and the trap is thus set. If the bait is pushed
when approached, the notch is forced off from the plug, and the
string flies up with a _twang!_ securing the neck of its victim,
and producing almost instant death. If the bait is _pulled_, the
bait stick thus forces the plug into the hole in the board, and
thus slides the cord on to the bevel, which immediately releases
it, and the bow is sprung. So that no matter whether the bait is
pushed or drawn towards the front, the trap is equally sure to
spring.
In setting this curious machine, it is only necessary to insert
it into the ground, and surround the bait with a slight pen, in
order that it may not be approached from behind. By now laying a
stone or a pile of sticks in front of the affair, so that the bait
may be more readily reached, the thing is ready. Care is required
in setting to arrange the pieces delicately. The plug should be
_very slightly_ inserted into the auger hole, and the notch in
the bait stick should be as small as possible, and hold. All this
is made clear in our illustration (_b_).
By observing these little niceties the trap becomes very sure and
sensitive.
Bait with small apple, nub of corn, or the like.
THE MOLE TRAP.
If there is anyone subject upon which the ingenuity of the farmers
has been taxed, it is on the invention of a mole trap which would
effectually clear their premises of these blind burrowing vermin.
Many patented devices of this character are on the market, and
many odd pictured ideas on the subject have gone the rounds of
the illustrated press, but they all sink into insignificance when
tested beside the trap we here present. It has no equal among mole
traps, and it can be made with the utmost ease and without cost.
The principle on which it works is the same as the Fish Trap on
page 120.
Construct a hollow wooden tube about five inches in diameter, and
eight inches in length. A section of a small tree, neatly excavated
with a large auger is just the thing. Through
[Page 120]
the centre of one of the sides a small hole the size of a lead
pencil should be bored, this being the upper side. About half an
inch distant from each end a smaller hole should be made for the
passage of the noose. The spring should consist either of a stout
steel rod, whalebone or stiff sapling, a foot or more in length,
inserted downward through holes in the side of the tube after the
manner of the Fish Trap already alluded to. No bait is required.
A simple stick the size of the central hole at one end, and an
inch in width at the other being sufficient. The trap is set as
described in the other instances, and as the introduction of the
spindle-stick is sometimes attended with difficulty owing to its
position inside the trap, the bottom of the latter is sometimes
cut away for two or three inches to facilitate the operation. The
trap is then to be imbedded within the burrow of the mole. Find
a fresh tunnel and carefully remove the sod above it. Insert the
trap and replace the turf. The first mole that starts on his rounds
through that burrow is a sure prisoner, no matter from which side
he may approach.
Immense numbers of these troublesome vermin have been taken in a
single season by a dozen such traps, and they possess great advantages
over all other mole traps on account of their simplicity and unfailing
success.
A FISH TRAP.
Our list of traps would be incomplete without a Fish Trap, and
although we have mentioned some contrivances in this line under
our article on "Fishing" we here present one which is both new
and novel.
[Illustration]
Its mode of construction is exactly similar to the Double Box Snare,
page (57). A section of stove-pipe one foot in length should first
be obtained. Through the iron at a point equidistant from the ends,
a hole should be made with some smooth, sharp pointed instrument,
the latter being forced _outward_ from the _inside_ of the pipe,
thus causing the ragged edge of the hole to appear on the outside,
as seen in our illustration. The diameter of the aperture
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should be about that of a lead pencil. Considering this as the _upper
side_ of the pipe, proceed to pierce two more hole's _downward_
through the side of the circumference, for the admission of a stout
stick or steel rod. This is fully explained in our illustration. The
further arrangement of bait stick and nooses is exactly identical
with that described on page (57). It may be set for suckers, pickerel,
and fish of like size, the bait stick being inserted with sufficient
firmness to withstand the attacks of smaller fish. The bait should
be firmly tied to the stick, or the latter supplied with two hooks
at the end on which it should be firmly impaled. To set the trap,
select a locality abounding in fish. Place a stone inside the bottom
of the pipe, insert the bait stick and arrange the nooses.
By now quietly grasping the curve of the switch the trap may be
easily lowered to the bottom. The bait soon attracts a multitude
of small fishes; these in turn attract the pickerel to the spot,
and before many minutes the trap is sprung and may be raised from
the water with its prisoner. This odd device is an invention of
the author's, and it is as successful as it is unique.
[Illustration: Maternal advice.]
[Page 123]
[Illustration: HOUSEHOLD TRAPS]
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