Thus, finding a farther advance to the northward, as well as a nearer

approach to either continent, obstructed by a sea blocked up with ice,

we judged it both injurious to the service, by endangering the safety of

the ships, as well as fruitless, with respect to the design of our

voyage, to make any farther attempts toward a passage. This, therefore,

added to the representations of Captain Gore, determined Captain Clerke

not to lose more time in what he concluded to be an unattainable object,

but to sail for Awatska Bay, to repair our damages there; and, before

the winter should set in, and render all other efforts toward discovery

impracticable, to explore the coast of Japan.

I will not endeavour to conceal the joy that brightened the countenance

of every individual, as soon as Captain Clerke’s resolutions were made

known. We were all heartily sick of a navigation full of danger, and in

which the utmost perseverance had not been repaid with the smallest

probability of success. We therefore turned our faces toward home, after

an absence of three years, with a delight and satisfaction, which,

notwithstanding the tedious voyage we had still to make, and the immense

distance we had to run, were as freely entertained, and perhaps as fully

enjoyed, as if we had been already in sight of the Land’s-end.

On the 28th, we kept working to windward with a fresh breeze from the

south-east, having the coast of Asia still in sight. At four in the

morning, the cape, which, on the authority of Muller, we have called

Serdze Kamen, bore south south-west, distant six or seven leagues. We

saw, in different places, upon the tops of the hills, which rise inland

on both sides of the cape, protuberances of a considerable height, which

had the appearance of huge rocks, or pillars of stone.

On the 29th, the wind still continuing contrary, we made but slow

progress to the southward. At midnight, we had thick foggy weather,

accompanied with a breeze from the north north-west, with which we

directed our course to the south south-east, through the straits, and

had no land in sight till seven in the evening of the 30th; when the fog

clearing away, we saw Cape Prince of Wales bearing south by east,

distant about six leagues; and the island St. Diomede south-west by

west. We now altered our course to the west, and at eight made the east

cape, which, at midnight, bore west by north, distant four leagues. In

the night we steered to the south south-west, with a fresh west

north-westerly breeze; and, at four in the morning of the 31st, the east

cape bore north north-east, and the north-east part of the bay of St.

Laurence (where we anchored the last year) west by south, its distance

being four leagues. As we could not have worked up to windward without a

greater waste of time, than the object appeared to deserve, we ran

across the bay, regretting much, as we passed along, the loss of this

opportunity of paying a second visit to the Tschutski. At noon our

latitude, by observation, was 65° 6ʹ, and longitude 189°. The south

point of the bay of St. Laurence bore north by west one quarter west,

and was distant seven or eight leagues. In the afternoon the variation

was found to be 22° 50ʹ east.

Having now passed Beering’s Straits, and taken our final leave of the

north-east coast of Asia, it may not be improper, on this occasion, to

state the grounds on which we have ventured to adopt two general

conclusions respecting its extent, in opposition to the opinions of Mr.

Muller. The first, that the promontory named East Cape is actually the

easternmost point of that quarter of the globe; or, in other words, that

no part of the continent extends in longitude beyond 190° 22ʹ E.: the

second, that the latitude of the north-easternmost extremity falls to

the southward of 70° N. With respect to the former, if such land exist,

it must necessarily be to the north of latitude 69°, where the

discoveries made in the present voyage terminate; and, therefore, the

probable direction of the coast, beyond this point, is the question I

shall endeavour, in the first place, to investigate.

As the Russian is the only nation that has hitherto navigated these

seas, all our information respecting the situation of the coast to the

northward of Cape North, must necessarily be derived from the charts and

journals of the persons who have been employed at various times, in

ascertaining the limits of that empire; and these are, for the most

part, so imperfect, so confused and contradictory, that it is not easy

to form any distinct idea of their pretended, much less to collect the

amount of their real discoveries. It is on this account, that the extent

and form of the peninsula, inhabited by the Tschutski, still remains a

point, on which the Russian geographers are much divided. Mr. Muller, in

his map, published in the year 1754, supposes this country to extend

toward the north-east, to the 75° of latitude, and in longitude 190°

east of Greenwich, and to terminate in a round cape, which he calls

Tschukotskoi Noss. To the southward of this cape he conceives the coast

to form a bay to the westward, bounded in latitude 67° 18ʹ, by Serdze

Kamen, the northernmost point seen by Beering in his expedition in the

year 1728. The map published by the Academy of St. Petersburg, in the

year 1776, gives the whole peninsula entirely a new form, placing its

north easternmost extremity in the latitude 73°, longitude 178° 30ʹ. The

easternmost point in latitude 65° 30ʹ, longitude 189° 30ʹ. All the other

maps we saw, both printed and in manuscript, vary between these two,

apparently more according to the fancy of the compiler, than on any

grounds of more accurate information. The only point in which there is a

general coincidence, without any considerable variation, is in the

position of the east Cape, in latitude 66°. The form of the coast, both

to the south and north of this cape, in the map of the academy, is

exceedingly erroneous, and may be totally disregarded. In that of Mr.

Muller, the coast to the northward bears a considerable resemblance to

our survey, as far as the latter extends, except that it does not trend

sufficiently to the westward; receding only about 5° of longitude,

between the latitude of 66° and 69°; whereas, in reality, it recedes

near ten. Between the latitude 69° and 74°, he makes the coast bend

round to the north and north-east, and to form a considerable

promontory. On what authority, now remains to be examined.

Mr. Coxe, whose accurate researches into this subject, give his opinion

great weight, is persuaded that the extremity of the _Noss_ in question

was never passed but by Deshneff and his party, who sailed from the

river Kovyma in the year 1648, and are supposed to have got round it

into the Anadyr. As the account of this expedition, the substance of

which the reader will find in Mr. Coxe’s account of Russian discoveries,

contains no geographical delineation of the coast along which they

sailed, its position must be conjectured from incidental circumstances;

and from these it appears very manifest, that the Tschukotskoi Noss of

Deshneff is no other than the promontory called by Captain Cook the East

Cape. Speaking of the _Noss_, he says, “One might sail from the isthmus

to the river Anadyr, with a fair wind, in three days and three nights.”

This exactly coincides with the situation of the East Cape, which is

about one hundred and twenty leagues from the mouth of the Anadyr; and

as there is no other isthmus to the northward between that and the

latitude of 69°, it is obvious, that, by this description, he must

intend either the cape in question, or some other to the southward of

it. In another place he says, “Over against the isthmus there are two

islands in the sea, upon which were seen people of the Tschutski nation

through whose lips were run pieces of the teeth of the sea-horse.” This

again perfectly agrees with the two islands situated to the south-east

of the East Cape. We saw indeed no inhabitants on them; but it is not at

all improbable, that a party of the Americans, from the opposite

continent, whom this description accurately suits, might, at that time,

have been accidentally there: and whom it was natural enough for him to

mistake for a tribe of the Tschutski.[22]

These two circumstances are of so striking and unequivocal a nature,

that they appear to me conclusive on the point of the Tschukotskoi Noss,

notwithstanding there are others of a more doubtful kind, which we have

from the same authority, and which now remain to be considered. “To go,”

says Deshneff in another account, “from the Kovyma to the Anadyr, a

great promontory must be doubled, which stretches very far into the sea;

and afterward, this promontory stretches between north and north-east.”

It was probably from the expressions contained in these passages, that

Mr. Muller was induced to give the country of the Tschutski the form we

find in his map; but had he been acquainted with the situation of the

East Cape, as ascertained by Captain Cook, and the remarkable

coincidence between it and their promontory or isthmus (for it must be

observed that Deshneff appears to be all along speaking of the same

thing), in the circumstances already mentioned, I am confident he would

not have thought those expressions merely by themselves, of sufficient

weight to warrant him in extending the north-eastern extremity of Asia

either so far to the north or to the eastward. For after all these

expressions are not irreconcileable with the opinion we have adopted, if

we suppose Deshneff to have taken these bearings from the small bight

which lies to the westward of the cape.

The deposition of the Cossac Popoff, taken at the Anadirskoi _ostrog_ in

the year 1711, seems to have been the next authority on which Mr. Muller

has proceeded; and beside these two I am not acquainted with any other.

This Cossac, together with several others, was sent by land to demand

tribute from the independent Tschutski tribes, who lived about the Noss.

The first circumstance in the account of this journey that can lead to

the situation of Tschukotskoi Noss is its distance from Anadirsk; and

this is stated to be ten weeks’ journey with loaded rein-deer; on which

account, it is added, their day’s journey was but very small. It is

impossible to conclude much from so vague an account; but as the

distance between the east cape and the _ostrog_ is upward of two hundred

leagues in a straight line, and therefore may be supposed to allow

twelve or fifteen miles a day; its situation cannot be reckoned

incompatible with Popoff’s calculation. The next circumstance mentioned

in this deposition is, that their route lay by the foot of a rock called

Matkol, situated at the bottom of a great gulf. This gulf Muller

supposes to be the bay he had laid down between latitude 66° and 72°;

and accordingly places the rock Matkol in the centre of it; but it

appears equally probable, even if we had not so many reasons to doubt

the existence of that bay, that it might be some part of the gulf of

Anadir, which they would undoubtedly touch upon in their road from the

_ostrog_ to the East Cape.

But what seems to put this matter beyond all dispute, and to prove that

the cape visited by Popoff cannot be to the northward of 69° latitude,

is that part of his deposition which I have already quoted, relative to

the island lying off the Noss, from whence the opposite continent might

be seen. For as the two continents in latitude 69°, have diverged so far

as to be more than three hundred miles distant, it is highly improbable

that the Asiatic coast should again trend in such a manner to the

eastward, as to come nearly within sight of the coast of America.

If these arguments should be deemed conclusive against the existence of

the peninsula of the Tschutski, as laid down by Muller, it will follow

that the East Cape of the Tschukotskoi Noss of the[23] more early

Russian navigators, and consequently that the undescribed coast from the

latitude of 69° to the mouth of the river Kovyma, must uniformly trend

more or less to the westward. As an additional proof of this, it may be

remarked that the Tschukotskoi Noss is always represented as dividing

the sea of Kovyma from that of Anadir, which could not be the case if

any considerable cape had projected to the north-east in the higher

latitudes.

Thus, in the depositions taken at Anadirsk, it is related “that opposite

the Noss, on both sides, as well in the sea of Kovyma as in that of

Anadir, an island is said to be seen at a great distance, which the

Tschutski call a large country; and say that people dwell there who have

large teeth put in their mouths that project through their cheeks.” Then

follows a description of these people and their country, exactly

corresponding with our accounts of the opposite continent.

The last question that arises is, to what degree of northern latitude

this coast extends, before it trends more directly to the westward. If

the situation of the mouth of the Kovyma, both with respect to its

latitude and longitude, were accurately determined, it would perhaps not

be very difficult to form a probable conjecture upon this point. Captain

Cook was always strongly of opinion that the northern coast of Asia from

the Indigirka eastward, has hitherto been generally laid down more than

two degrees to the northward of its true position; and he has therefore,

on the authority of a map that was in his possession, and on the

information he received at Oonalashka, placed the mouth of the river

Kovyma, in his chart of the north-west coast of America and the

north-east coast of Asia, in the latitude of 68°. Should he be right in

this conjecture, it is probable, for the reasons that have been already

stated, that the Asiatic coast does not any where exceed 70° before it

trends to the westward; and consequently that we were within 1° of its

north-eastern extremity. For if the continent be supposed to stretch any

where to the northward of Shelatskoi Noss, it is scarcely possible that

so extraordinary a circumstance should not have been mentioned by the

Russian navigators; and we have already shown that they make mention of

no remarkable promontory between the Kovyma and the Anadir, except the

East Cape. Another circumstance related by Deshneff, may perhaps be

thought a further confirmation of this opinion, namely, that he met with

no impediment from ice in navigating round the north-east extremity of

Asia; though he adds that this sea is not always so free from it; as

indeed is manifest from the failure of his first expedition, and since

that, from the unsuccessful attempts of Shalauroff, and the obstacles we

met with, in two different years, in our present voyage.

The continent left undetermined in our chart, between Cape North and the

mouth of the Kovyma, is in longitudinal extent one hundred and

twenty-five leagues. One third or about forty leagues of this distance,

from the Kovyma eastward, was explored in the year 1723 by a

_Sinbojarskoi_ of Jakutz, whose name was Fedot Amossoff, by whom Mr.

Muller was informed that its direction was to the eastward. It is said

to have been since accurately surveyed by Shalauroff, whose chart makes

it trend to the north-east by east as far as the Shelatskoi Noss, which

he places about forty-three leagues to the eastward of the Kovyma. The

space between this Noss and Cape North, about eighty-two leagues, is

therefore the only part of the Russian empire that now remains

unascertained.

But if the river Kovyma be erroneously situated with respect to its

longitude as well as in its latitude, a supposition for which probable

grounds are not wanting, the extent of the unexplored coast will become

proportionably diminished. The reasons which incline me to believe that

the mouth of this river is placed in the Russian charts much too far to

the westward, are as follow: First, because the accounts that are given

of the navigation of the Frozen Sea from that river round the north-east

point of Asia to the gulf of Anadir, do not accord with the supposed

distance between those places. Secondly, because the distance over land

from the Kovyma to the Anadir, is represented by the early Russian

travellers as a journey easily performed, and of no very extraordinary

length. Thirdly, because the coast from the Shelatskoi Noss of

Shalauroff[24] seems to trend directly south-east to the East Cape. If

this be so, it will follow, that as we were probably not more than 1° to

the southward of Shelatskoi Noss, only sixty miles of the Asiatic coast

remained unascertained.

Had Captain Cook lived to this period of our voyage, and experienced, in

a second attempt, the impracticability of a north-east or north-west

passage from the Pacific to the Atlantic Ocean, he would doubtless have

laid before the public, in one connected view, an account of the

obstacles which defeated this, the primary object of our expedition,

together with his observations on a subject of such magnitude, and which

had engaged the attention and divided the opinions of philosophers and

navigators for upward of two hundred years. I am very sensible how

unequal I am to the task of supplying this deficiency; but that the

expectations of the reader may not be wholly disappointed, I must beg

his candid acceptance of the following observations, as well as of those

I have already ventured to offer him, relative to the extent of the

north-east coast of Asia.

The evidence that has been so fully and judiciously stated in the

introduction, amounts to the highest degree of probability that a

north-west passage from the Atlantic into the Pacific Ocean, cannot

exist to the southward of 65° of latitude. If then there exists a

passage, it must be either through Baffin’s Bay, or round by the north

of Greenland, in the western hemisphere; or else through the Frozen

Ocean, to the northward of Siberia, in the eastern; and on which ever

side it lies, the navigator must necessarily pass through Beering’s

Straits. The impracticability of penetrating into the Atlantic on either

side, through this strait, is therefore all that remains to be submitted

to the consideration of the public.

As far as our experience went, it appears, that the sea to the north of

Beering’s Strait is clearer of ice in August than in July, and perhaps

in a part of September it may be still more free. But after the equinox,

the days shorten so fast, that no farther thaw can be expected; and we

cannot rationally allow so great an effect to the warm weather in the

first half of September, as to imagine it capable of dispersing the ice

from the most northern parts of the American coast. But admitting this

to be possible, it must at least be granted, that it would be madness to

attempt to run from the Icy Cape to the known parts of Baffin’s Bay (a

distance of four hundred and twenty leagues), in so short a time as that

passage can be supposed to continue open.

Upon the Asiatic side, there appears still less probability of success,

both from what came to our own knowledge with respect to the state of

the sea to the southward of Cape North, and also from what we learn from

the experience of the[25] lieutenants under Beering’s direction, and the

journal of Shalauroff, in regard to that on the north of Siberia.

The voyage of Deshneff, if its truth be admitted, proves undoubtedly the

possibility of passing round the north-east point of Asia; but when the

reader reflects, that near a century and a half has elapsed since the

time of that navigator, during which, in an age of great curiosity and

enterprise, no man has yet been able to follow him, he will not

entertain very sanguine expectations of the public advantages that can

be derived from it. But let us even suppose, that in some singularly

favourable season a ship has found a clear passage round the coast of

Siberia, and is safely arrived at the mouth of the Lena, still there

remains the Cape of Taimura, stretching to the 78° of latitude, which

the good fortune of no single voyager has hitherto doubled.

It is, however, contended, that there are strong reasons for believing

that the sea is more free from ice the nearer we approach to the pole;

and that all the ice we saw in the lower latitudes was formed in the

great rivers of Siberia and America, the breaking up of which had filled

the intermediate sea. But even if that supposition be true, it is

equally so that there can be no access to those open seas, unless this

great mass of ice is so far dissolved in the summer, as to admit of a

ship’s getting through it. If this be the fact, we have taken a wrong

time of the year for attempting to find this passage, which should have

been explored in April and May, before the rivers were broken up. But

how many reasons may be given against such a supposition? Our experience

at Saint Peter and Saint Paul enabled us to judge what might be expected

farther north; and upon that ground we had reason to doubt, whether the

continents might not in winter be even joined by the ice; and this

agreed with the stories we heard in Kamtschatka, that on the Siberian

coast they go out from the shore in winter, upon the ice, to greater

distances than the breadth of the sea is, in some parts, from one

continent to the other.

In the depositions referred to above, the following remarkable

circumstance is related. Speaking of the land seen from the Tschukotskoi

Noss, it is said, “that in summer time they sail in one day to the land

in baidares, a sort of vessel constructed of whalebone, and covered with

seal-skins; and in winter time, going swift with rein-deer, the journey

may likewise be made in a day.” A sufficient proof that the two

countries were usually joined together by the ice.

The account given by Mr. Muller of one of the expeditions undertaken to

discover a supposed island in the Frozen Sea, is still more remarkable.

“In the year 1714, a new expedition was prepared from Jakutzk for the

same place, under the command of Alexei Markoff, who was to sail from

the mouth of the Jana; and if the _Schitiki_ were not fit for

sea-voyages, he was to construct, at a proper place, vessels fit for

prosecuting the discoveries without danger.

“On his arrival at Ust-janskoe Simovie, the port at which he was to

embark, he sent an account dated February 2. 1715, to the chancery of

Jakutzk, mentioning that it was impossible to navigate the sea, as it

was continually frozen both in summer and winter; and that consequently

the intended expedition was no otherwise to be carried on but with

sledges drawn by dogs. In this manner he accordingly set out with nine

persons on the 10th of March the same year, and returned on the 3d of

April to Ust-janskoe Simovie. The account of his journey is as follows:

that he went seven days as fast as his dogs could draw him, (which in

good ways and weather is eighty or a hundred wersts in a day,) directly

toward the north upon the ice, without discovering any island: that it

had not been possible for him to proceed any farther, the ice rising

there in the sea like mountains; that he had climbed to the top of some

of them, whence he was able to see to a great distance round about him,

but could discern no appearance of land; and that at last wanting food

for his dogs, many of them died, which obliged them to return.”

Beside these arguments, which proceed upon an admission of the

hypothesis that the ice in those seas comes from the rivers, there are

others which give great room to suspect the truth of the hypothesis

itself. Captain Cook, whose opinion respecting the formation of ice had

formerly coincided with that of the theorists we are now controverting,

found abundant reason in the present voyage for changing his sentiments.

We found the coast of each continent to be low, the soundings gradually

decreasing toward them, and a striking resemblance between the two;

which, together with the description Mr. Hearne gives of the Coppermine

river, afford reason to conjecture that whatever rivers may empty

themselves into the Frozen Sea from the American continent, are of the

same nature with those on the Asiatic side; which are represented to be

so shallow at the entrance as to admit only small vessels; whereas the

ice we have seen, rises above the level of the sea to a height equal to

the depth of those rivers; so that its entire height must be at least

ten times greater.

The curious reader will also in this place be led naturally to reflect

on another circumstance, which appears very incompatible with the

opinion of those who imagine land to be necessary for the formation of

ice; I mean the different state of the sea about Spitzbergen, and to the

north of Beering’s Straits. It is incumbent on them to explain how it

comes to pass that in the former quarter, and in the vicinity of much

known land, the navigator annually penetrates to near 80° north

latitude; whereas, on the other side, his utmost efforts have not been

able to carry him beyond 71°; where, moreover, the continents diverge

nearly east and west, and where there is no land yet known to exist near

the pole. For the farther satisfaction of the reader on this point, I

shall beg leave to refer him to _Observations made during a Voyage round

the World_, by Dr. Forster, where he will find the question of the

formation of ice fully and satisfactorily discussed, and the probability

of open polar seas disproved by a variety of powerful arguments.

I shall conclude these remarks with a short comparative view of the

progress we made to the northward, at the two different seasons we were

engaged in that pursuit, together with a few general observations

relative to the sea, and the coast of the two continents which lie to

the north of Beering’s Straits.

It may be observed, that in the year 1778 we did not meet with the ice

till we advanced to the latitude of 70°, on August 17th; and that then

we found it in compact bodies, extending as far as the eye could reach,

and of which a part or the whole was moveable, since, by its drifting

down upon us, we narrowly escaped being hemmed in between it and the

land. After experiencing both how fruitless and dangerous it would be to

attempt to penetrate farther north, between the ice and the land, we

stood over toward the Asiatic side, between the latitude of 69° and 70°,

frequently encountering in this tract large and extensive fields of ice;

and though, by reason of the fogs and thickness of the weather, we were

not able absolutely and entirely to trace a connected line of it across,

yet we were sure to meet with it before we reached the latitude of 70°,

whenever we attempted to stand to the northward. On the 26th of August,

in latitude 69-3/4°, and longitude 184°, we were obstructed by it in

such quantities, as made it impossible for us to pass either to the

north or west, and obliged us to run along the edge of it to the south

south-west till we saw land, which we afterward found to be the coast of

Asia. With the season thus far advanced, the weather setting in with

snow and sleet, and other signs of approaching winter, we abandoned our

enterprize for that time.

In this second attempt we could do little more than confirm the

observations we had made in the first; for we were never able to

approach the continent of Asia higher than the latitude of 67°, nor that

of America in any parts, excepting a few leagues between the latitude of

68° and 68° 20ʹ, that were not seen the last year. We were now

obstructed by ice 3° lower, and our endeavours to push farther to the

northward were principally confined to the mid-space between the two

coasts. We penetrated near 3° farther on the American side than on the

Asiatic, meeting with the ice both years sooner, and in greater

quantities on the latter coast. As we advanced north, we still found the

ice more compact and solid; yet as in our different traverses from side

to side, we passed over spaces which had before been covered with it, we

conjectured that most of what we saw was moveable.

Its height on a medium, we took to be from eight to ten feet, and that

of the highest to have been sixteen or eighteen. We again tried the

currents twice, and found them unequal, but never to exceed one mile an

hour. By comparing the reckoning with the observations, we also found

the current to set different ways, yet more from the south-west than any

other quarter; but whatever their direction might be, their effect was

so trifling that no conclusions respecting the existence of any passage

to the northward, could be drawn from them. We found the month of July

to be infinitely colder than that of August. The thermometer in July was

once at 28°, and very commonly at 30°; whereas the last year, in August,

it was very rare to have it so low as the freezing point.

In both seasons we had some high winds, all of which came from the

south-west. We were subject to fogs whenever the wind was moderate, from

whatever quarter, but they attended southerly winds more constantly than

contrary ones.

The straits between the two continents, at their nearest approach, in

latitude 66°, were ascertained to be thirteen leagues, beyond which they

diverge to N. E. by E. and W. N. W.; and in latitude 69°, they become

14° of longitude or about one hundred leagues asunder. A great

similarity is observable in the appearance of the two countries to the

northward of the straits. Both are destitute of wood. The shores are

low, with mountains rising to a great height farther up the country. The

depth of water in the mid-way between them was twenty-nine and thirty

fathoms, decreasing gradually as we approached either continent, with

the difference of being somewhat shoaler on the American than on the

Asiatic coast, at the same distance from land. The bottom in the middle

was a soft slimy mud; and on drawing near to either shore, a brown sand,

intermixed with small fragments of bones, and a few shells. We observed

but little tide or current; what there was came from the westward.

But it is now time to resume the narrative of our voyage, which was

broken off on the 31st of July, on which day at noon we had advanced

eighteen leagues to the southward of the East Cape.

We had light airs from the south-west till noon of the 1st of August, at

which time our latitude, by observation, was 64° 23ʹ, longitude 189°

15ʹ, the coast of Asia, extended from north-west by west to west half

south, distant about twelve leagues; and the land to the eastward of St.

Laurence bore south half west. On the 2d, the weather becoming clear, we

saw the same land at noon, bearing from west-south-west half west to

south-east, making in a number of high hummocks, which had the

appearance of separate islands; the latitude, by observation, was 64° 3ʹ

longitude 189° 28ʹ, and depth of water seventeen fathoms. We did not

approach this land sufficiently near to determine whether it was one

island, or composed of a cluster together. Its westernmost part we

passed July 3d, in the evening, and then supposed to be the island of

Saint Laurence; the easternmost we ran close by in September last year,

and this we named Clerke’s Island, and found it to consist of a number

of high cliffs, joined together by very low land. Though we mistook, the

last year, those cliffs for separate islands, till we approached very

near the shore, I should still conjecture that the island Saint Laurence

was distinct from Clerke’s island, since there appeared a considerable

space between them, where we could not perceive the smallest rising of

ground. In the afternoon, we also saw what bore the appearance of a

small island, to the north-east of the land, which was seen at noon, and

which from the haziness of the weather we had only sight of once. We

estimated its distance to be nineteen leagues from the island of Saint

Laurence, in a north-east by east half east direction. On the 3d, we had

light variable winds, and directed our course round the north-west point

of the island of Saint Laurence. On the 4th at noon, our latitude, by

account, was 64° 8ʹ, longitude 188°; the island Saint Laurence bearing

south one quarter east, distant seven leagues. In the afternoon, a fresh

breeze springing up from the east, we steered to the south-south-west,

and soon lost sight of Saint Laurence. On the 7th, at noon, the

latitude, by observation, was 59° 38ʹ, longitude 183°. In the afternoon

it fell calm, and we got a great number of cod in seventy-eight fathoms

of water. The variation was found to be 19° E. From this time to the

17th, we were making the best of our way to the south, without any

occurrence worth remarking, except that the wind, coming from the

western quarter, forced us farther to the eastward than we wished, as it

was our intention to make Beering’s Island.

On the 17th, at half past four in the morning, we saw land to the

north-west, which we could not approach, the wind blowing from that

quarter. At noon, the latitude, by observation, was 53° 49ʹ, longitude

168° 5ʹ, and variation 10° E. The land in sight bore north by west,

twelve or fourteen leagues distant. This land we take to be the island

Mednoi, laid down in the Russian charts to the south-east of Beering’s

Island. It is high land, and appeared clear of snow. We place it in the

latitude 54° 28ʹ, longitude 167° 52ʹ. We got no soundings with one

hundred and fifty fathoms of line.

Captain Clerke was now no longer able to get out of his bed; he

therefore desired that the officers would receive their orders from me,

and directed that we should proceed with all speed to Awatska Bay. The

wind continuing westerly, we stood on to the south till early on the

morning of the 19th, when, after a few hours rain, it blew from the

eastward, and freshened to a strong gale. We accordingly made the most

of it whilst it lasted, by standing to the westward under all the sail

we could carry. On the 20th, the wind shifting to the south-west, our

course was to the west-north-west. At noon, the latitude by observation

was 53° 7ʹ, longitude 162° 49ʹ. On the 21st, at half past five in the

morning, we saw a very high-peaked mountain on the coast of Kamtschatka,

called Cheepoonskoi Mountain, from its lying behind the Noss, bearing

north-west by north, twenty-five or thirty leagues distant. At noon, the

coast extended from north by east to west, with a very great haziness

upon it, and distant about twelve leagues. We had light airs the

remaining part of this and the following day, and got no soundings with

one hundred and forty fathoms of line.

On the 22d of August, 1779, at nine o’clock in the morning, departed

this life Captain Charles Clerke, in the thirty-eighth year of his age.

He died of a consumption, which had evidently commenced before he left

England, and of which he had lingered during the whole voyage. His very

gradual decay had long made him a melancholy object to his friends; yet

the equanimity with which he bore it, the constant flow of good spirits,

which continued to the last hour, and a cheerful resignation to his

fate, afforded them some consolation. It was impossible not to feel a

more than common degree of compassion for a person whose life had been a

continued scene of those difficulties and hardships to which a seaman’s

occupation is subject, and under which he at last sunk. He was brought

up to the navy from his earliest youth, and had been in several actions

during the war which began in 1756, particularly in that between the

Bellona and Courageux, where, being stationed in the mizen-top, he was

carried overboard with the mast, but was taken up without having

received any hurt. He was midshipman in the Dolphin, commanded by

Commodore Byron, on her first voyage round the world, and afterward

served on the American station. In 1768, he made his second voyage round

the world, in the Endeavour, as master’s mate, and by the promotion

which took place during the expedition, he returned a lieutenant. His

third voyage round the world was in the Resolution, of which he was

appointed the second lieutenant: and soon after his return, in 1775, he

was promoted to the rank of master and commander. When the present

expedition was ordered to be fitted out, he was appointed to the

Discovery, to accompany Captain Cook; and by the death of the latter

succeeded, as has been already mentioned, to the chief command.

It would be doing his memory extreme injustice not to say, that during

the short time the expedition was under his direction, he was most

zealous and anxious for its success. His health, about the time the

principal command devolved upon him, began to decline very rapidly, and

was every way unequal to encounter the rigours of a high northern

climate. But the vigour and activity of his mind had in no shape

suffered by the decay of his body: and though he knew, that by delaying

his return to a warmer climate, he was giving up the only chance that

remained for his recovery, yet, careful and jealous to the last degree

that a regard to his own situation should never bias his judgment to the

prejudice of the service, he persevered in the search of a passage till

it was the opinion of every officer in both ships that it was

impracticable, and that any farther attempts would not only be fruitless

but dangerous.

CHAP. V.

RETURN TO THE HARBOUR OF SAINT PETER AND SAINT PAUL.—PROMOTION OF

OFFICERS.—FUNERAL OF CAPTAIN CLERKE.—DAMAGES OF THE DISCOVERY

REPAIRED.—VARIOUS OTHER OCCUPATIONS OF THE SHIPS’ CREWS.—LETTERS FROM

THE COMMANDER.—SUPPLY OF FLOUR AND NAVAL STORES FROM A RUSSIAN

GALLIOT.—ACCOUNT OF AN EXILE.—BEAR-HUNTING AND FISHING PARTIES.—

DISGRACE OF THE SERJEANT.—CELEBRATION OF THE KING’S CORONATION-DAY,

AND VISIT FROM THE COMMANDER.—THE SERJEANT REINSTATED.—A RUSSIAN

SOLDIER PROMOTED AT OUR REQUEST.—REMARKS ON THE DISCIPLINE OF THE

RUSSIAN ARMY.—CHURCH AT PARATOUNCA.—METHOD OF BEAR-HUNTING.—FARTHER

ACCOUNT OF THE BEARS AND KAMTSCHADALES.—INSCRIPTION TO THE MEMORY OF

CAPTAIN CLERKE.—SUPPLY OF CATTLE.—ENTERTAINMENTS ON THE EMPRESS’S

NAME-DAY.—PRESENT FROM THE COMMANDER.—ATTEMPT OF A MARINE TO DESERT.—

WORK OUT OF THE BAY.—NAUTICAL AND GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF AWATSKA

BAY.—ASTRONOMICAL TABLES, AND OBSERVATIONS.

I sent Mr. Williamson to acquaint Captain Gore with the death of Captain

Clerke, and received a letter from him, ordering me to use all my

endeavours to keep in company with the Discovery; and, in case of a

separation, to make the best of my way to the harbour of St. Peter and

St. Paul. At noon, we were in latitude 53° 8ʹ N., longitude 160° 40ʹ E.,

with Cheepoonskoi Noss bearing west. We had light airs in the afternoon,

which lasted through the forenoon of the 23d. At noon, a fresh breeze

springing up from the eastward, we stood in for the entrance of Awatska

Bay; and at six in the evening, saw it bearing west-north-west half

west, distant five leagues. At eight, the light-house, in which we now

found a good light, bore north-west by west, three miles distant. The

wind about this time died away; but the tide being in our favour, we

sent the boats ahead, and towed beyond the narrow parts of the entrance;

and at one o’clock in the morning of the 24th, the ebb-tide setting

against us, we dropped anchor. At nine, we weighed, and turned up the

bay with light airs, and the boats still ahead till one; when, by the

help of a fresh breeze, we anchored, before three in the afternoon, in

the harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, with our ensign half-staff

up, on account of our carrying the body of our late Captain; and were

soon after followed by the Discovery.

We had no sooner anchored, than our old friend, the serjeant, who was

still the commander of the place, came on board with a present of

berries, intended for our poor deceased captain. He was exceedingly

affected when we told him of his death, and showed him the coffin that

contained his body. And as it was Captain Clerke’s particular request to

be buried on shore, and, if possible, in the church of Paratounca, we

took the present opportunity of explaining this matter to the serjeant,

and consulting with him about the proper steps to be taken on the

occasion. In the course of our conversation, which, for want of an

interpreter, was carried on but imperfectly, we learned that professor

de L’Isle, and several Russian gentlemen, who died here, had been buried

in the ground near the barracks, at the _ostrog_ of St. Peter and St.

Paul; and that this place would be preferable to Paratounca, as the

church was to be removed thither the next year. It was therefore

determined, that we should wait for the arrival of the priest of

Paratounca, whom the serjeant advised us to send for, as the only person

that could satisfy our inquiries on this subject. The serjeant having,

at the same time, signified his intentions of sending off an express to

the commander at Bolcheretsk, to acquaint him with our arrival, Captain

Gore availed himself of that occasion of writing him a letter, in which

he requested that sixteen head of black cattle might be sent with all

possible expedition; and because the commander did not understand any

language except his own, the nature of our request was made known to the

serjeant, who readily undertook to send, along with our letter, an

explanation of its contents.

We could not help remarking, that, although the country was much

improved in its appearance since we were last here, the Russians looked,

if possible, worse now than they did then. It is to be owned, they

observed, that this was also the case with us; and as neither party

seemed to like to be told of their bad looks, we found mutual

consolation in throwing the blame upon the country, whose green and

lively complexion, we agreed, cast a deadness and sallowness upon our

own.

The irruption of the volcano, which was so violent when we sailed out of

the bay, we found had done no damage here, notwithstanding stones had

fallen at the _ostrog_, of the size of a goose’s egg. This was all the

news we had to inquire after, and all they had to tell; excepting that

of the arrival of Soposnikoff from Oonalashka, who took charge of the

packet Captain Cook had sent to the Admiralty, and which, it gave us

much satisfaction to find, had been forwarded.

In the morning of the 25th, Captain Gore made out the new commissions,

in consequence of Captain Clerke’s death; appointing himself to the

command of the Resolution, and me to the command of the Discovery; and

Mr. Lanyan, master’s mate of the Resolution, who had served in that

capacity on board the Adventure in the former voyage, was promoted to

the vacant lieutenancy. These promotions produced the following farther

arrangements; Lieutenants Burney and Rickman were removed from the

Discovery, to be first and second lieutenants of the Resolution; and

Lieutenant Williamson was appointed first lieutenant of the Discovery,

Captain Gore also permitted me to take into the Discovery four

midshipmen, who had made themselves useful to me in astronomical

calculations, and whose assistance was now particularly necessary, as we

had no _ephemeris_ for the present year. And, that astronomical

observations might continue to be made in both ships, Mr. Bayley took my

place in the Resolution. The same day we were visited by the Pope

Romanoff Vereshagen, the worthy priest of Paratounca. He expressed his

sorrow at the death of Captain Clerke in a manner that did honour to his

feelings, and confirmed the account given by the serjeant, respecting

the intended removal of the church to the harbour; adding, that the

timber was actually preparing, but leaving the choice of either place

entirely to Captain Gore.

The Discovery, as has been mentioned, had suffered great damage from the

ice, particularly on the 23d day of July; and having, ever since, been

exceedingly leaky, it was imagined that some of her timbers had started.

Captain Gore therefore sent the carpenters of the Resolution to assist

our own in repairing her; and accordingly, the forehold being cleared,

to lighten her forward, they were set to work to rip the damaged

sheathing from the larboard bow. This operation discovered, that three

feet of the third strake, under the wale, were staved, and the timbers

within started. A tent was next erected for the accommodation of such of

our people as were employed on shore; and a party were sent a mile into

the country, to the northward of the harbour, to fell timber. The

observatories were erected at the west end of the village, near a tent,

in which Captain Gore and myself took up our abode.

The farther we proceeded in removing the sheathing, the more we

discovered of the decayed state of the ship’s hull. The next morning,

eight feet of a plank in the wale were found to be so exceedingly

rotten, as to make it necessary to shift it. This left us for some time

at a stand, as nothing was to be found, in either ship, wherewith to

replace it, unless we chose to cut up a top-mast; an expedient not to be

had recourse to, till all others failed. The carpenters were therefore

sent on shore in the afternoon in search of a tree big enough for the

purpose. Luckily they found a birch, which I believe was the only one of

sufficient size in the whole neighbourhood of the bay, and which had

been sawed down by us when we were last here; so that it had the

advantage of having lain some time to season. This was shaped on the

spot, and brought on board the next morning.

As the season was now so far advanced, I was fearful lest any delay or

hindrance should arise, on our parts, to Captain Gore’s farther views of

discovery, and therefore gave orders that no more sheathing should be

ripped off, than was absolutely necessary for repairing the damages

sustained by the ice. This I did, being apprehensive of their meeting

with more decayed planks, which, I judged, had much better remain in

that state, than be filled up with green birch, upon a supposition that

such was to be had. All hands were at present, busily employed in

separate duties, that every thing might be in readiness for sea, against

the time our carpenters should have finished their work. We set apart

four men to haul the seine for salmon, which were caught in great

abundance, and found to be of an excellent quality. After supplying the

immediate wants of both ships, we salted down near a hogshead a-day. The

invalids, who were four in number, were employed in gathering greens,

and in cooking for the parties on shore. Our powder was also landed, in

order to be dried; and the sea-horse blubber, with which both ships, in

our passage to the north (as has been before related), had stored

themselves, was now boiled down for oil, which was become a necessary

article, our candles having long since been expended. The cooper was

fully engaged in his department: and in this manner were both ships’

companies employed in their several occupations, till Saturday

afternoon, which was given up to all our men, except the carpenters, for

the purpose of washing their linen and getting their clothes in some

little order, that they might make a decent appearance on Sunday.

In the afternoon of that day, we paid the last offices to Captain

Clerke. The officers and men of both ships walked in procession to the

grave, whilst the ships fired minute-guns; and the service being ended,

the marines fired three vollies. He was interred under a tree, which

stands on rising ground, in the valley to the north side of the harbour,

where the hospital and store-houses are situated; Captain Gore having

judged this situation most agreeable to the last wishes of the deceased,

for the reasons above-mentioned; and the priest of Paratounca having

pointed out a spot for his grave, which, he said, would be as near as he

could guess, in the centre of the new church. This reverend pastor

walked in the procession, along with the gentleman who read the service;

and all the Russians in the garrison were assembled, and attended with

great respect and solemnity.

On the 30th, the different parties returned to their respective

employments, as mentioned in the course of the preceding week; and on

the 2d of September, the carpenters having shifted the rotten and

damaged planks, and repaired and calked the sheathing of the larboard

bow, proceeded to rip off the sheathing that had been injured by the

ice, from the starboard side. Here, again, they discovered four feet of

a plank, in the third strake under the wale, so shaken, as to make it

necessary to be replaced. This was accordingly done, and the sheathing

repaired on the 3d. In the afternoon of the same day, we got on board

some ballast, unhung the rudder, and sent it on shore, the lead of the

pintles being found entirely worn away, and a great part of the

sheathing rubbed off. As the carpenters of the Resolution were not yet

wanted, we got this set to rights the next day, but finding the rudder

out of all proportion heavy, even heavier than that of the Resolution,

we let it remain on shore, in order to dry and lighten.

The same day, an ensign arrived from Bolcheretsk with a letter from the

commander to Captain Gore, which we put into the serjeant’s hands, and,

by his assistance, were made to understand, that orders had been given

about the cattle; and that they might be expected here in a few days;

and, moreover, that Captain Shmaleff, the present commander, would

himself pay us a visit immediately on the arrival of a sloop which was

daily expected from Okotzk. The young officer, who brought the letter,

was the son of the Captain-lieutenant Synd, who commanded an expedition

on discovery, between Asia and America, eleven years ago, and resided at

this time at Okotzk.[26] He informed us, that he was sent to receive our

directions, and to take care to get us supplied with whatever our

service might require; and that he should remain with us, till the

commander was himself able to leave Bolcheretsk; after which he was to

return, that the garrison there might not be left without an officer.

On the 5th, the parties that were on shore returned on board, and were

employed in scrubbing the ship’s bottom, and getting in eight tons of

shingle ballast. We also got up two of our guns, that had been stowed in

the fore-hold, and mounted them on the deck, being now about to visit

nations, our receptions amongst whom might a good deal depend on the

respectability of our appearance.

The Resolution hauled on shore on the 8th, to repair some damages, which

she had also received among the ice, in her cutwater; and our

carpenters, in their turn, were sent to her assistance.

About this time we began to brew a strong decoction of a species of

dwarf-pine that grows here in great abundance, thinking that it might

hereafter be useful in making beer, and that we should probably be able

to procure sugar or molasses to ferment with it at Canton. At all

events, I was sure it would be serviceable as a medicine for the scurvy;

and was more particularly desirous of supplying myself with as much of

it as I could procure, because most of the preventives we had brought

out, were either used or spoiled by keeping. By the time we had prepared

a hogshead of it, the ship’s copper was discovered to be very thin, and

cracked in many places. This obliged me to desist, and to give orders,

that it should be used as sparingly, for the future as possible. It

might, perhaps, be an useful precaution for those who may hereafter be

engaged in long voyages of this kind, either to provide themselves with

a spare copper, or to see that the copper usually furnished be of the

strongest kind. The various extra-services, in which it will be found

necessary to employ them, and especially the important one of making

anti-scorbutic decoctions, seem absolutely to require some such

provision; and I should rather recommend the former on account of the

additional quantity of fuel that would be consumed in heating thick

coppers.

In the morning of the 10th, the boats from both ships were sent to tow

into the harbour a Russian galliot from Okotzk. She had been thirty-five

days on her passage, and had been seen from the light-house a fortnight

ago, beating up toward the mouth of the bay. At that time, the crew had

sent their only boat on shore for water, of which they now began to be

in great want; and the wind freshening, the boat was lost on its return;

and the galliot, being driven out to sea again, had suffered

exceedingly.

There were fifty soldiers in her, with their wives and children; and

several other passengers, besides the crew, which consisted of

twenty-five; so that they had upward of an hundred souls on board; a

great number for a vessel of eighty tons; and that was also heavy laden

with stores and provisions. Both this galliot, and the sloop we saw here

in May, are built like the Dutch doggers. Soon after she had come to

anchor, we received a visit from a _Put-parouchick_, or sub-lieutenant,

who was passenger in the galliot, and sent to take the command of this

place. Part of the soldiers, we understood, were also designed to

reinforce the garrison; and two pieces of small cannon were landed, as

an additional defence to the town. It should seem, from these

circumstances, that our visit here had drawn the attention of the

Russian commanders in Siberia to the defenceless situation of the place;

and I was told by the honest serjeant, with many significant shrugs,

that, as we had found our way into it, other nations might do the same,

some of whom might not be altogether so welcome.

Next morning the Resolution hauled off from the shore, having repaired

the damages she had sustained by the ice; and in the course of the day,

we got from the galliot a small quantity of pitch, tar, cordage, and

twine; canvas was the only thing we asked for, with which their scanty

store did not put it into their power to supply us. We also received

from her an hundred and forty skins of flour, amounting to 13,782 pounds

English, after deducting five pounds for the weight of each bag.

We had a constant course of dry weather till this day, when there came

on a heavy rain, accompanied with strong squalls of wind, which obliged

us to strike our yards and top-masts.

The 12th, being Sunday, was kept as a day of rest; but the weather

unfortunately continuing foul, our men could not derive the advantage

from it we wished, by gathering the berries that grew in great

quantities and varieties on the coast; and taking other pastime on

shore. The same day, Ensign Synd left us to return to Bolcheretsk with

the remainder of the soldiers that came in the galliot. He had been our

constant guest during his stay. Indeed, we could not but consider him,

on his father’s account, as in some measure belonging to us, and

entitled, as one of the family of discoverers, to a share in our

affections.

We had hitherto admitted the serjeant to our tables, in consideration of

his being commander of the place; and, moreover, because he was a quick

sensible man, and comprehended better than any other the few Russian

words we had learned. Ensign Synd had very politely suffered him to

enjoy the same privileges during his stay; but, on the arrival of the

new commander from Okotzk, the serjeant, for some cause or other, which

we could not learn, fell into disgrace, and was no longer suffered to

sit down in the company of his own officers. It was in vain to think of

making any attempt to obtain an indulgence, which, though it would have

been highly agreeable to us, was doubtless incompatible with their

discipline.

On Wednesday we had finished the stowage of the holds; got on board all

our wood and water; and were ready to put to sea at a day’s notice. It

is however necessary to observe, that though every thing was in this

degree of readiness on board, the cattle were not yet arrived from

Verchnei; and as fresh provisions were the most important article of our

wants, and in a great measure necessary for the health of the men, we

could not think of taking our departure without them. We, therefore,

thought this a favourable opportunity (especially as there was an

appearance of fine weather) of taking some amusement on shore, and

acquiring a little knowledge of the country. Accordingly, Captain Gore

proposed a party of bear-hunting, which we all very readily came into.

We did not set out on this expedition till Friday the 17th, in order to

give a day’s rest to the Hospodin Ivaskin, a new acquaintance, that was

to be of our party, and who came down here on Wednesday. This gentleman,

who, we understood, usually resides at Verchnei, had been desired by

Major Behm to attend us on our return to the harbour, in order to be our

interpreter; and the accounts we had heard of him, before his arrival,

had excited in us a great curiosity to see him.

He is of a considerable family in Russia. His father was a general in

the empress’s service; and he himself, after having received his

education partly in France, and partly in Germany, had been page to the

Empress Elizabeth, and an ensign in her guards. At the age of sixteen he

was _knowted_, had his nose slit, and was banished first to Siberia and

afterward to Kamtschatka, where he had now lived thirty-one years. He

was a very tall thin man, with a face all over furrowed with deep

wrinkles; and bore, in his whole figure, the strongest marks of old age,

though he had scarcely reached his fifty-fourth year.

To our very great disappointment, he had so totally forgotten both his

German and French, as not to be able to speak a sentence, nor readily to

understand what was said to him, in either of these languages. We found

ourselves thus unfortunately deprived of what we flattered ourselves

would have turned out a favourable opportunity of getting farther

information relative to this country. We had also promised ourselves

much pleasure from the history of this extraordinary man, which he

probably would have been induced to relate to strangers, who might

perhaps be of some little service to him, but who could have no

inducement to take advantage, from any thing he might say, to do him an

injury. No one here knew the cause of his banishment; but they took it

for granted, that it must have been for something very atrocious;

particularly, as two or three commanders of Kamtschatka have endeavoured

to get him recalled, since the present empress’s reign; but far from

succeeding in this, they have not been even able to get the place of his

banishment changed. He told us that, for twenty years, he had not tasted

bread, nor had been allowed subsistence of any kind whatsoever; but

that, during this period, he had lived among the Kamtschadales, on what

his own activity and toil in the chace had furnished. That afterward he

had a small pension granted; and that since Major Behm came to the

command, his situation had been infinitely mended. The notice that

worthy man had taken of him, and his having often invited him to become

his guest, had been the occasion of others following his example;

besides which, he had been the means of getting his pension increased to

one hundred roubles a-year; which is the common pay of an ensign in all

parts of the empress’s dominions, except in this province, where the pay

of all the officers is double. Major Behm told us, that he had obtained

permission to take him to Okotzk, which was to be the place of his

residence in future; but that he should leave him behind for the

present, on an idea, that he might, on our return to the bay, be useful

to us as an interpreter.

Having given orders to the first lieutenants of both ships, to let the

rigging have such a repair as the supply of stores, we had lately

received, would permit, we set out on our hunting party, under the

direction of the corporal of the Kamtschadales, intending, before we

began to look for our game, to proceed straight to the head of Behm’s

Harbour. It is an inlet on the west side of the bay (which we had named

after that officer, from its being a favourite place of his, and having

been surveyed by himself), and is called by the natives Tareinska.

In our way toward this harbour, we met the _Toion_ of Saint Peter and

Saint Paul, in a canoe, with his wife and two children, and another

Kamtschadale. He had killed two seals upon a round island, that lies in

the entrance of the harbour, with which, and a great quantity of berries

that he had gathered, he was returning home. As the wind had veered to

the south-west, we now changed our route, by his advice; and instead of

going up the harbour, directed our course to the northward, toward a

pool of water that lies near the mouth of the river Paratounca, and

which was a known haunt of the bears. We had scarce landed, when

unfortunately the wind changed to the eastward, and a second time

destroyed all hopes of coming up with our game; for the Kamtschadales

assured us, that it was in vain to expect to meet with bears, whilst we

were to the windward; owing to their being possessed of an uncommon

acuteness in scenting their pursuers, which enabled them, under such

circumstances, to avoid the danger, whilst it is yet at a very great

distance. We returned, therefore, to the boat, and passed the night on

the beach, having brought a tent with us for that purpose; and the next

day, by the advice of our guides, crossed the bay, and went to the head

of Rakoweena Harbour.

Having here secured the boats, we proceeded with all our luggage on

foot, and, after a walk of five or six miles, came to the sea side, a

league to the northward of the Light-house Head. From hence, as far as

we could see toward Cheepoonskoi Noss, there is a continued narrow

border of low level ground adjoining to the sea, which is covered with

heath, and produces great abundance of berries, particularly those

called partridge and crow-berries. We were told, we should not fail to

meet with a number of bears, feeding upon these berries; but that the

weather being showery, was unfavourable for us.

Accordingly, we directed our course along this plain; and though we saw

several bears at a distance, we could never, with all our management,

contrive to get within shot of them. Our diversion was therefore changed

to spearing of salmon, which we saw pushing, in great numbers, through

the surf into a small river. I could not help observing, how much

inferior our Kamtschadales were at this method of fishing, to the people

at Oonalashka; nor were their instruments, although pointed with iron,

near so good for the purpose, nor to be compared in neatness to those of

the Americans, though pointed only with bone. On inquiring into the

reason of this inferiority, I was informed by the corporal, who had

lived many years amongst the Americans, that formerly the Kamtschadales

made use of the same kind of darts and spears with the Americans, headed

and barbed with bone, and were not less dexterous in the management of

them than the latter. We could not understand one another sufficiently

for me to learn the cause of this change; probably it was one of the not

unusual effects of a forced and imperfect state of improvement. It fell

out very opportunely, that the water afforded us a little prey; for

besides our ill success in the chase by land, we had also been

disappointed in our expectations of shooting wild fowl, on a supply of

which we had in some measure depended for our subsistence; and on its

failure, began to think that we had been full long absent from

head-quarters.

Our Kamtschadales now discovered, that the want of success, in not

meeting with game, was owing to the party being too large, and to the

unavoidable noise that was the consequence of it. We, therefore, agreed

to separate; Ivaskin, the corporal, and myself, forming one party;

Captain Gore and the rest of the company, the other.

Accordingly, after passing the night under our tent, we set out on the

morning of the 19th, by different routes, meaning to take a circuit

round the country, and meet at Saint Peter and Saint Paul. The party to

which I belonged took the course of the river, at the mouth of which we

had fished for the salmon; and, after being thoroughly soaked by the

heavy rains that fell all the morning, we came about three in the

afternoon to some old _balagans_, where a Kamtschadale village had been

formerly situated, without meeting with a single bear during the whole

of a long and tedious walk. It was our first intention to have remained

here all night, in order to have resumed our chace early the next

morning; but the weather clearing, and at the same time a fresh breeze

springing up from a quarter unfavourable to our designs, the Hospodin,

whom former sufferings had made very unfit to bear much fatigue, and who

seemed at present more particularly distressed from having emptied his

snuff-box, began to be very importunate with us to return home. It was

some time before the old corporal consented, alleging, that we were at a

great distance from the harbour; and that, on account of the badness of

the way, the night would probably overtake us before we reached the end

of our journey. At length, however, he yielded to Ivaskin’s entreaties,

and conducted us along the side of a number of small lakes, with which

the flat part of this country seems much to abound. These lakes are from

half a mile to two miles in length, and about half a mile broad; the

water is fresh and clear, and they are full of a red-coloured fish,

resembling, both in shape and size, a small salmon; of which a more

particular description will be given hereafter. The banks of these lakes

were covered with the fragments of fish that the bears had half eaten,

and which caused an intolerable stench. We often came upon the spots

which the bears had just left, but were never able even to come within

sight of them.

It was night before we reached the ships, and we had then been twelve

hours upon our legs. Poor Ivaskin found himself exceedingly tired, and

overcome with fatigue; probably he was more sensible of it, for want of

a supply of snuff; for every step he took, his hand dived mechanically

into his pocket, and drew out his huge empty box. We had scarcely got

into the tent, when the weather set in exceedingly rough and wet. We

congratulated ourselves that we had not stayed out another day, the

Hospodin’s box was replenished, and we forgot the fatigues and ill

success of our expedition over a good supper.

I was exceedingly sorry, on being told the next day, that our friend the

serjeant had undergone corporal punishment, during our absence, by

command of the old _Put-parouchick_. None of our people had been able to

learn what was the cause of his displeasure; but it was imagined to have

arisen from some little jealousy subsisting between them on account of

the civility which we had shown to the former. However, having every

reason to believe that the offence, whatever it might be, did not call

for so disgraceful a chastisement, we could not help being both sorry

and much provoked at it, as the terms on which we had lived with him,

and the interest we were known to take in his affairs, made the affront

in some measure personal to ourselves. For it has not yet been

mentioned, that we had consulted with the late worthy commander, Major

Behm, who was also his friend, by what means we might be most likely to

succeed in doing him some service, for the good order he had kept in the

_ostrog_ during our stay, and for his readiness, on all occasions, to

oblige us. The major advised a letter of recommendation to the

governor-general, which Captain Clerke had accordingly given him, and

which, backed with his own representations, he had no doubt would get

the serjeant advanced a step higher in his profession.

We did not choose to make any remonstrance on this subject, till the

arrival of Captain Shmaleff. Indeed our inability, from the want of

language, to enter into any discussion of the business, made it

advisable to come to this determination. However, when the

_Put-parouchick_ paid us his next visit, we could not help testifying

our chagrin, by receiving him very coolly.

The 22d, being the anniversary of his Majesty’s coronation, twenty-one

guns were fired, and the handsomest feast our situation would allow of

was prepared, in honour of the day. As we were sitting down to dinner,

the arrival of Captain Shmaleff was announced. This was a most agreeable

surprise; in the first place, because he arrived so opportunely to

partake of the good fare and festivity of the occasion; and, in the

next, because, in our last accounts of him, we were given to understand,

that the effects of a severe illness had made him unequal to the

journey. We were glad to find this had been merely an excuse; that, in

fact, he was ashamed of coming empty-handed, knowing we must be in great

want of tea, sugar, &c. &c.; and that, therefore, he had deferred his

setting out, in daily expectation of the sloop from Okotsk; but having

no tidings of her, and dreading lest we should sail without his having

paid us a visit, he was determined to set out, though with nothing

better to present to us than apologies for the poverty of Bolcheretsk.

At the same time he acquainted us, that our not having received the

sixteen head of black cattle, we had desired might be sent down, was

owing to the very heavy rains at Verchnei, which had prevented their

setting out. We made the best answer we were able, to so much politeness

and generosity; and the next day, on coming on board the Resolution, he

was saluted with eleven guns. Specimens of all our curiosities were

presented to him; and Captain Gore added to them a gold watch and a

fowling-piece.

The next day, he was entertained on board the Discovery; and on the

25th, he took leave of us to return to Bolcheretsk. He could not be

prevailed on to lengthen his visit, having some expectations, as he told

us, that the sub-governor-general, who was at this time making a tour

through all the provinces of the governor-general of Jakutsk, might

arrive in the sloop that was daily expected from Okotsk. Before his

departure, and without any interference of ours, he reinstated the

serjeant in the command of this place, having determined to take the

_Put-parouchick_ along with him; at the same time, we understood that he

was highly displeased with him, on account of the punishment that had

been inflicted on the serjeant, and for which there did not appear to be

the slightest grounds.

Captain Shmaleff’s great readiness to give us every possible proof of

his desire to oblige us, encouraged us to ask a small favour, for

another of our Kamtschadale friends. It was to requite an old soldier,

whose house had been, at all times, open to the inferior officers, and

who had done both them, and all the crew, a thousand good offices. The

captain most obligingly complied with our request, and dubbed him (which

was all he wished for) a corporal upon the spot; and ordered him to

thank the English officers for his great promotion. It may not here be

improper to observe, that, in the Russian army, the inferior class of

officers enjoy a degree of pre-eminence above the private men, with

which we, in our service, are in a great measure unacquainted. It was no

small astonishment to us, to see a serjeant keep up all the state, and

exact all the respect, from all beneath him, belonging to a

field-officer. It may be farther remarked, that there are many more

gradations of rank amongst them, than are to be met with in other

countries. Between a serjeant and a private man, there are not less than

four intermediate steps; and I have no doubt, but that the advantages

arising from this system are found to be very considerable. The salutary

effects of little subordinate ranks in our sea-service, cannot be

questioned. It gives rise to great emulation, and the superior officers

are enabled to bestow, on almost every possible degree of merit, a

reward proportioned to it.

Having been incidentally led into this subject, I shall beg leave to add

but one observation more, namely, that the discipline of the Russian

army, though at this distance from the seat of government, is of the

strictest and severest kind; from which even the commissioned officers

are not exempt. The punishment of the latter for small offences is

imprisonment, and a bread-and-water diet. An ensign, a good friend of

ours at this place, told us, that for having been concerned in a drunken

riot, he was confined in the black-hole for three months, and fed upon

bread and water, which, he said, so shattered his nerves, that he had

never since had spirits for a common convivial meeting.

I accompanied Captain Shmaleff to the entrance of Awatska river, and,

having bid him farewell, took this opportunity of paying a visit to the

priest of Paratounca. On Sunday the 26th, I attended him to church. The

congregation consisted of his own family, three Kamtschadale men, and

three boys, who assisted in singing part of the service, the whole of

which was performed in a very solemn and edifying manner. The church is

of wood, and by far the best building either in this town, or in that of

Saint Peter and Saint Paul. It is ornamented with many paintings,

particularly with two pictures of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, presented

by Beering; and which, in the real richness of their drapery, would

carry off the prize from the first of our European performances; for all

the principal parts of it are made of thick plate of solid silver,

fastened to the canvass, and fashioned into the various foldings of the

robes with which the figures were clothed.

The next day, I set on foot another hunting party, and put myself under

the direction of the clerk of the parish, who was a celebrated

bear-hunter. We arrived, by sun-set, at the side of one of the larger

lakes. The next step was to conceal ourselves as much as possible; and

this we were able to do very effectually, among some long grass and

brush-wood, that grew close to the water’s edge. We had not lain long in

ambush, before we had the pleasure to hear the growlings of bears in

different parts round about us; and our expectations were soon gratified

by the sight of one of them in the water, which seemed to be swimming

directly to the place where we lay hid. The moon, at this time, gave a

considerable light; and when the animal had advanced about fifteen

yards, three of us fired at it, pretty nearly at the same time. The

beast immediately turned short on one side, and set up a noise, which

could not properly be called roaring, nor growling, nor yelling, but was

a mixture of all three, and horrible beyond description. We plainly saw

that it was severely wounded, and that with difficulty it gained the

bank, and retreated to some thick bushes at a little distance. It still

continued to make the same loud and terrible noise; and though the

Kamtschadales were persuaded it was mortally wounded, and could get no

farther, yet they thought it most advisable not to rouse it again for

the present. It was at this time past nine o’clock, and the night

becoming overcast, and threatening a change of weather, we thought it

most prudent to return home, and defer the gratification of our

curiosity till morning, when we returned to the spot, and found the bear

dead in the place to which it had been watched. It proved to be a

female, and beyond the common size.

As the account of our first hunting-party will be apt to give the reader

a wrong idea of the method in which this sport is usually conducted, it

may not be amiss to add a few more words on the subject; and which I am

the better able to do since this last expedition.

When the natives come to the ground frequented by the bears, which they

contrive to reach about sun-set, the first step is to look for their

tracks, to examine which are the freshest, and the best situated with a

view to concealment, and taking aim at the beast, either as he is

passing by or advancing in front, or going from them. These tracks are

found in the greatest numbers, leading from the woods down to the lakes,

and among the long sedgy grass and brakes by the edge of the water. The

place of ambuscade being determined upon, the hunters next fix in the

ground the crutches, upon which their firelocks are made to rest,

pointing them in the direction they mean to make their shot. This done,

they kneel or lie down, as the circumstances of the cover require, and,

with their bear-spears by their side, wait for their game. These

precautions, which are chiefly taken in order to make sure of their

mark, are, on several accounts, highly expedient. For, in the first

place, ammunition is so dear at Kamtschatka, that the price of a bear

will not purchase more of it than is sufficient to load a musket four or

five times; and what is more material, if the bear be not rendered

incapable of pursuit by the first shot, the consequences are often

fatal. He immediately makes toward the place from whence the noise and

smoke issue, and attacks his adversaries with great fury. It is

impossible for them to reload, as the animal is seldom at more than

twelve or fifteen yards distance when he is fired at: so that, if he

does not fall, they immediately put themselves in a posture to receive

him upon their spears; and their safety greatly depends on their giving

him a mortal stab, as he first comes upon them. If he parries the thrust

(which, by the extraordinary strength and agility of their paws, they

are often enabled to do), and thereby breaks in upon his adversaries,

the conflict becomes very unequal, and it is well if the life of one of

the party alone suffice to pay the forfeit.

There are two seasons of the year when this diversion, or occupation as

it may be rather called, is more particularly dangerous: in the spring,

when the bears first come forth, after having subsisted, as is

universally asserted here, on sucking their paws through the winter; and

especially if the frost happen to be severe, and the ice not to be

broken up in the lake at that time, by which means they are deprived of

their ordinary and expected food. Under these circumstances they soon

become exceedingly famished, and fierce and savage in proportion. They

will pursue the natives by the scent; and, as they now prowl about out

of their usual tracks, frequently come upon them unawares; and when this

happens, as the Kamtschadales have not the smallest notion of shooting

flying, nor even at an animal running, or in any way except with their

piece on a rest, the bear-hunters often fall a sacrifice to their

hunger. The other season in which it is dangerous to come in their way,

is at the time of their copulation, which is generally about this time

of the year.

An extraordinary instance of natural affection in these animals hath

been already mentioned. The chace affords a variety of a similar nature,

and not less affecting; many of which were related to me. The

Kamtschadales derive great advantage in hunting, from this circumstance.

They never venture to fire upon a young bear, when the mother is near:

for, if the cub drop, she becomes enraged to a degree little short of

madness; and if she get sight of the enemy, will only quit her revenge

with her life. On the contrary, if the dam be shot, the cubs will not

leave her side, even after she has been dead a long time; but continue

about her, showing, by a variety of affecting actions and gestures,

marks of the deepest affliction, and thus become an easy prey to the

hunters.

Nor is the sagacity of the bears, if the Kamtschadales are to be

credited, less extraordinary, or less worthy to be remarked, than their

natural affection. Of this they have a thousand stories to relate. I

shall content myself with mentioning one instance, which the natives

speak of as a well-known fact; and that is, the stratagem they have

recourse to, in order to catch the bareins, which are considerably too

swift of foot for them. These animals keep together in large herds; they

frequent mostly the low grounds, and love to browse at the feet of rocks

and precipices. The bear hunts them by scent till he come in sight, when

he advances warily, keeping above them, and concealing himself amongst

the rocks, as he makes his approaches, till he gets immediately over

them, and nigh enough for his purpose. He then begins to push down, with

his paws, pieces of the rock amongst the herd below. This manœuvre is

not followed by any attempt to pursue, until he find he has maimed one

of the flock, upon which a course immediately ensues, that proves

successful, or otherwise, according to the hurt the barein has received.

I cannot conclude this digression without observing, that the

Kamtschadales very thankfully acknowledge their obligations to the bears

for what little advancement they have hitherto made, either in the

sciences or polite arts. They confess that they owe to them all their

skill both in physic and surgery; that by remarking with what herbs

these animals rub the wounds they have received, and what they have

recourse to when sick and languid, they have become acquainted with most

of the simples in use among them, either in the way of internal

medicine, or external application. But what will appear somewhat more

singular is, they acknowledge the bears likewise for their

dancing-masters. Indeed, the evidence of one’s senses puts this out of

dispute; for the bear-dance of the Kamtschadales is an exact counterpart

of every attitude and gesture peculiar to this animal, through its

various functions; and this is the foundation and ground-work of all

their other dances, and what they value themselves most upon.

I returned to the ships on the 28th, very well pleased with my

excursion, as it had afforded me an opportunity of seeing a little more

of the country, and of observing the manners and behaviour of the

Kamtschadales, when freed from that constraint which they evidently lie

under in the company of the Russians.

No occurrence worth mentioning took place till the 30th, when Captain

Gore went to Paratounca, to put up in the church there an escutcheon,

prepared by Mr. Webber, with an inscription upon it, setting forth

Captain Clerke’s age and rank, and the object of the expedition in which

he was engaged at the time of his decease. We also affixed to the tree

under which he was buried a board, with an inscription upon it to the

same effect.

Before his departure, Captain Gore left orders with me to get the ships

out of the harbour into the bay, to be in readiness to sail. We were

prevented from doing this by a violent gale of wind, which lasted the

whole day of the 1st of October. However, on the 2d, both ships warped

out of the harbour, clear of the narrow passage, and came to anchor in

seven fathoms, a quarter of a mile from the _ostrog_.

The day before we went out of the harbour, the cattle arrived from

Verchnei; and that the men might receive the full benefit of this

capital and much-longed-for supply, by consuming it fresh, Captain Gore

came to a determination of staying five or six days longer. Nor was this

time idly employed. The boats, pumps, sails, and rigging of both ships,

thereby received an additional repair. And Captain Gore sparing me some

molasses, and the use of the Resolution’s copper, I was enabled to brew

a fortnight’s beer for the crew, and to make a farther provision of ten

puncheons of strong spruce essence. The present supply was the more

acceptable, as our last cask of spirits, except a small quantity left in

reserve for cases of necessity, was now serving out.

The 3d was the name-day of the empress, and we could want no inducement

to show it every possible respect. Accordingly, Captain Gore invited the

priest of Paratounca, Ivaskin, and the serjeant, to dinner; and an

entertainment was also provided for the inferior officers of the

garrison, for the two _Toions_ of Paratounca, and Saint Peter and Saint

Paul, and for the other better sort of Kamtschadale inhabitants. The

rest of the natives, of every description, were invited to partake with

the ships’ companies, who had a pound of good fat beef served out to

each man; and what remained of our spirits was made into grog, and

divided amongst them. A salute of twenty-one guns was fired at the usual

hour; and the whole was conducted (considering the part of her dominions

it was in,) in a manner not unworthy so renowned and magnificent an

empress.

On the 5th, we received from Bolcheretsk a fresh supply of tea, sugar,

and tobacco. This present had met Captain Shmaleff on his return, and

was accompanied by a letter from him, in which he informed us, that the

sloop from Okotsk had arrived during his absence, and that Madame

Shmaleff, who was entirely in our interests, had lost no time in

dispatching a courier, with the few presents, of which our acceptance

was requested.

The appearance of foul weather, on the 6th and 7th, prevented our

unmooring; but on the morning of the 8th, we sailed out toward the mouth

of the bay, and hoisted in all the boats; when the wind, veering to the

southward, stopped our farther progress, and obliged us to drop anchor

in ten fathoms; the _ostrog_ bearing due north, half a league distant.

The weather being foggy, and the wind from the same quarter during the

forenoon of the 9th, we continued in our station. At four in the

afternoon, we again unmoored; but whilst we were, with great difficulty,

weighing our last anchor, I was told that the drummer of the marines had

left the boat, which had just returned from the village, and that he was

last seen with a Kamtschadale woman, to whom his messmates knew he had

been much attached, and who had often been observed persuading him to

stay behind. Though this man had been long useless to us, from a

swelling in his knee, which rendered him lame, yet this made me the more

unwilling he should be left behind, to become a miserable burthen, both

to the Russians and himself. I therefore got the serjeant to send

parties of soldiers in different directions, in search of him, whilst

some of our sailors went to a well-known haunt of his in the

neighbourhood, where they found him with his woman. On the return of

this party, with our deserter, we weighed, and followed the Resolution

out of the bay.

Having at length taken our leave of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, I shall

conclude this chapter with a particular description of Awatska bay, and

the coast adjoining; not only because (its three inlets included) it

constitutes perhaps the most extensive and safest harbour that has yet

been discovered, but because it is the only port in this part of the

world, capable of admitting ships of any considerable burthen. The term

bay, indeed, is perhaps not applicable, properly speaking, to a place so

well sheltered as Awatska; but then it must be observed, that from the

loose, undistinguishing manner, in which navigators have denominated

certain situations of sea and land, with respect to each other, bays,

roads, sounds, harbours, &c. we have no defined and determinate ideas

affixed to these words, sufficient to warrant us in changing a popular

name, for one that may appear more proper.

The entrance into this bay, is in 52° 51ʹ N. latitude, and 158° 48ʹ E.

longitude, and lies in the bight of another exterior bay, formed by

Cheepoonskoi Noss, to the north, and Cape Gavareea to the south. The

former of these head-lands bears from the latter north-east by north,

three quarters east, and is distant thirty-two leagues. The coast, from

Cape Gavareea to the entrance of Awatska Bay, takes a direction nearly

north, and is eleven leagues in extent. It consists of a chain of high,

ragged cliffs, with detached rocks frequently lying off them. This

coast, at a distance, presents in many parts, an appearance of bays or

inlets, but on a nearer approach, the head-lands were found connected by

low ground.

Cheepoonskoi Noss bears from the entrance of the bay, east north-east a

quarter east, and is seventeen leagues distant. On this side, the shore

is low and flat, with hills rising behind, to a considerable height. In

the latitude of Cape Gavareea, there is an error of twenty-one miles in

the Russian charts; its true latitude being 52° 21ʹ.

This striking difference of the land on each side of Awatska Bay, with

their different bearings, are the best guides to steer for it, in coming

from the southward: and, in approaching it from the northward,

Cheepoonskoi Noss will make itself very conspicuous; for it is a high

projecting head-land, with a considerable extent of level ground, lower

than the Noss, uniting it to the continent. It presents the same

appearance, whether viewed from the north or south, and will warn the

mariner not to be deceived, in imagining Awatska Bay to lie in the

bight, which the coast forms to the northward of this Noss, and which

might be the case, from the striking resemblance there is between a

conical hill within this bight or bay, and one to the south of Awatska

Bay.

I have been thus particular, in giving a minute description of this

coast, from our own experience of the want of it. For had we been

furnished with a tolerable account of the form of the coast, on each

side of Awatska Bay, we should on our first arrival upon it, have got

safely within the bay two days before we did, and thereby have avoided

part of the stormy weather, which came on when we were plying off the

mouth of the harbour. Besides, from the prevalence of fogs in these

seas, it must frequently happen, that an observation for ascertaining

the latitude cannot be got; to which we may add, that the deceptive

appearances land makes, when covered with snow, and when viewed through

an hazy atmosphere, both which circumstances prevail here, during the

greatest part of the year, render the knowledge of a variety of

discriminating objects the more necessary.

Should, however, the weather be clear enough to admit a view of the

mountains on the coast in its neighbourhood, these will serve to point

out the situation of Awatska Bay, with a great deal of precision. For to

the south of it are two high mountains; that which is nearest the bay,

is shaped like a sugar-loaf; the other, which is farther inland, does

not appear so high, and is flat at the top. To the north of the bay, are

three very conspicuous mountains; the westernmost is, to appearance, the

highest; the next is the _volcano_ mountain, which may be known from the

smoke that issues from its top, and likewise from some high table-hills

connected with it, and stretching to the northward: these two are

somewhat peaked. The third, and the most northerly, might perhaps be

more properly called a cluster of mountains, as it presents to the sight

several flat tops.

When the navigator has got within the capes, and into the outward bay, a

perpendicular head-land, with a light-house erected upon it, will point

out the entrance of the bay of Awatska to the northward. To the eastward

of this head-land lie many sunken rocks, stretching into the sea, to the

distance of two or three miles; and which will show themselves, if there

be but a moderate sea or swell. Four miles to the south of the entrance

lies a small round island, very distinguishable from being principally

composed of high pointed rocks, with one of them strikingly remarkable,

as being much larger, more peaked and perpendicular than the rest.

It is no way necessary to be equally particular in the description of

the bay itself, as of its approaches and environs; since no words can

give the mariner so perfect an idea of it, as the annexed plan. From

this it will appear, that the entrance is at first near three miles

wide, and in the narrowest part one mile and a half, and four miles

long, in a north north-west direction. Within the mouth is a noble bason

of twenty-five miles circuit, with the capacious harbours of Tarcinska

to the west, of Rakoweena to the east, and the small one of Saint Peter

and Saint Paul, where we lay, to the north.

Tarcinska harbour is about three miles in breadth, and twelve in length;

it stretches to the east-south-east, and is separated from the sea, at

the bottom, by a narrow neck of land. The road into this harbour is

perfectly free from rocks or shoals. We had never less than seven

fathoms’ water, as far as our survey extended; for we were not able to

get to the bottom of the harbour on account of the ice.

The harbour of Rakoweena would deserve the preference over the other

two, if its entrance were not impeded by a shoal lying in the middle of

the channel, which, in general, will make it necessary to warp in,

unless there be a leading wind. It is from one mile to half a mile in

width, and three miles long, running at first in a south-east, and

afterward in an easterly direction. Its depth is from thirteen to three

fathoms.

Saint Peter and Saint Paul’s is one of the most convenient little

harbours I ever saw. It will hold conveniently half a dozen ships,

moored head and stern, and is fit for giving them any kind of repairs.

The south side is formed by a low sandy neck, exceedingly narrow, on

which the _ostrog_ is built, and whose point may almost be touched by

ships going in, having three fathoms’ water close in with it. In the

mid-channel, which is no more than two hundred and seventy-eight feet

across, there are six fathoms and a half; the deepest water within is

seven fathoms; and in every part over a muddy bottom. We found some

inconvenience from the toughness of the ground, which constantly broke

the messenger, and gave us a great deal of trouble in getting up the

anchors. There is a watering-place at the head of the harbour.

The plan will likewise point out the shoal that is to be avoided, lying

off the eastern harbour, as well as the spit within the entrance,

stretching from the south-west shore, and over which there is only three

fathoms’ water. In order to steer clear of the latter, a small island,

or perhaps it may rather be called a large detached rock, lying on the

west shore of the entrance, is to be shut in with the land to the south

of it; and, to steer clear of the former, the Three Needle Rocks, which

lie on the east shore of the entrance near the light-house head, are to

be kept open with the head-lands (or bluff heads) that rise to the

northward of the first small bay, or bending, observable on the east

side of the entrance. When arrived to the north of the north head-land

of the eastern harbour, the shoal is past.

In sailing into the harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, and

approaching the village, it is necessary to keep in close to the eastern

shore, in order to avoid a spit, which runs from the head-land to the

south-west of the town.

Before I proceed to give a table of the result of our astronomical

observations at this place, it may be proper to acquaint the reader,

that the time-keeper we had on board the Resolution, which was an exact

copy of that invented by Mr. Harrison, and executed by Mr. Kendal,

stopped on the 27th of April, a few days before we first came into

Awatska Bay. It had been always kept with the most scrupulous care

during the voyage, having never been trusted for a moment into any other

hands than those of Captain Cook and mine. No accident could, therefore,

have happened to it, to which we could attribute its stopping; nor could

it have arisen from the effects of intense cold, as the thermometer was

very little below the freezing point. As soon as the discovery was made,

I consulted with Captain Clerke what course it was best to pursue;

whether to let it remain as it was, entirely useless to us, for the

purpose of satisfying the curious at home, where it was sure of being

examined by proper judges, or suffer it to be inspected by a seaman on

board, who had served a regular apprenticeship to a watchmaker in

London; and appeared sufficiently knowing in the business, from his

success in cleaning and repairing several watches since we had been out.

The advantages we had derived from its accuracy made us extremely

unwilling to be deprived of its use during the remaining part of the

voyage; and that object appeared to us of much greater importance than

the small degree of probability, which we understood was all that could

be expected, of obtaining any material knowledge respecting its

mechanism, by deferring the inspection of it. At the same time, it

should be remembered, that the watch had already had a sufficient trial,

both in the former voyage, and during the three years we had now had it

on board, to ascertain its utility. On these considerations, we took the

opportunity of the first clear day, after our arrival in Awatska Bay, of

opening the watch, which was done in the captain’s cabin, and in our

presence. The watchmaker found no part of the work broken; but not being

able to set it agoing, he proceeded to take off the cock and balance,

and cleaned both the pivot-holes, which he found very foul, and the rest

of the work rather dirty; he also took off the dial-plate; and, between

two teeth of the wheel that carries the second-hand, found a piece of

dirt, which he imagined to be the principal cause of its stopping.

Having afterward put the work together, and oiled it as sparingly as

possible, the watch appeared to go free and well.

Having received orders the next day to go to Bolcheretsk, the

time-keeper was left in the care of Mr. Bayly, to compare it with his

watch and clock, in order to get its rate. On my return, I was told it

had gone for some days with tolerable regularity, losing only from

fifteen to seventeen seconds a-day, when it stopped a second time. It

was again opened, and the cause of its stopping appeared to be owing to

the man having put some part of the work badly together when he first

opened it. Being again adjusted, it was found to gain above a minute

a-day; and, in the attempt to alter the regulator and balance-spring, he

broke the latter. He afterward made a new spring; but the watch now went

so irregularly, that we made no farther use of it. The poor fellow was

not less chagrined than we were, at our bad success; which, however, I

am convinced was more owing to the miserable tools he was obliged to

work with, and the stiffness his hands had contracted from his ordinary

occupation, than to his want of skill.

For the satisfaction of those who may wish to have a general view of its

rate of going, I have added the following table.

The first and second columns contain the dates when, and the names of

the places where, its rate was observed. The third column contains the

daily error of its rate, so found from mean time. The fourth column has

the longitude of each place, according to the Greenwich rate; that is,

calculated on a supposition that the time-keeper had not varied its rate

from the time it left Greenwich. But as we had frequent opportunities of

ascertaining the variation of its daily error, or finding its new rate,

the fifth column has the longitude, according to its last rate,

calculated from the true longitude of the place last departed from. The

sixth is the true longitude of the place, deduced from astronomical

observations made by ourselves, and compared with those made by others,

whenever such could be obtained. The seventh column shows the difference

between the fourth column and the sixth in space; and the eighth the

same difference in time. The ninth shows the number of months and days

in which the error, thus determined, had been accumulating. The

difference between the fifth and sixth columns is found in the tenth,

and shows the error of the time-keeper, according to its rate last found

in space; and the eleventh, the same error in time. The twelfth contains

the time elapsed in sailing from the place where the rate was last

taken, to the place whose longitude is last determined. The thirteenth

and fourteenth contain the state of the air at the time of each

observation.

As persons, unaccustomed to calculations of this sort, may find some

difficulty in comprehending the nature of the table, the two following

instances will more clearly explain it.

Thus, on the 24th October, 1776 (first column), at the Cape of Good Hope

(second column), we found the daily error in the rate of its going, to

be 2ʺ,26 (third column). The longitude of that place calculated on a

supposition, that the rate of the time-keeper had continued the same

from the time of our leaving Greenwich, that is, had a regular daily

error of 1ʺ,21, is found to be 18° 26ʹ 30ʺ E. (fourth column). And as

its rate at Greenwich is, in this instance, its latest rate, the

longitude thus found is the same (fifth column). The true longitude of

the place is 18° 23ʹ 15ʺ (sixth column). From whence it appears, that,

in our run from Greenwich to the Cape, the watch would have led us into

an error only of 3ʹ 15ʺ (seventh column), or three miles one quarter; or

had varied 13ʺ of time (eighth column), in four months twenty-three days

(ninth column), the period between our leaving Greenwich and our arrival

at the Cape. As the Greenwich is the latest error, the tenth, eleventh,

and twelfth columns will be the same with the seventh and ninth.

But, on the 22d of February, 1777 (first column), at Queen Charlotte’s

Sound, New Zealand (second column), the daily error of its rate was

found to be 2ʺ,91 (third column). The longitude of this place, according

to the Greenwich rate, is 175° 25ʹ (fourth column). But having found, at

the Cape, that it had altered its rate from a daily error of 1ʹ,21 to

2ʹ,26, the longitude corrected by this new rate is found to be 174° 54ʹ

23ʺ (fifth column). The true longitude of the place being 174° 23ʹ 31ʺ

(sixth column); it appears, that, in our run from Greenwich to New

Zealand, the error would have been only 1° 1ʹ 29ʺ (seventh column), or

sixty-one miles and a half, even if we had not had an opportunity of

correcting its daily error; or, in other words, that the watch had

varied 4ʹ 6ʺ (eighth column), in eight months eleven days (ninth

column). But the longitude, as given by its new rate, leaves an error of

only 30ʹ 54ʺ (tenth column), near thirty-one miles, or, in time, 2ʹ 3ʺ,6

(eleventh column), which has been accumulating during our run from the

Cape to New Zealand, or in three months, 28° (twelfth column). The

thirteenth and fourteenth columns require no explanation.

TABLE of the Rate and Error of Mr. Kendal’s Watch, on board the

Resolution.

+---------+-------------------+-------+----------+----------+----------+---------+----------+------+---------+---------+------+-------------+----------+

| I. | II. | III. | IV. | V. | VI. | VII. | VIII. | IX. | X. | XI. | XII. | XIII. | XIV. |

+---------+-------------------+-------+----------+----------+----------+---------+----------+------+---------+---------+------+-------------+----------+

| TIME. | PLACE. | Error |Longitude | Longitude| True | Accumulated Error |Length| Error by new |Length| Thermometer.|Barometer.|

| | | of | by | by | Longitude| By Greenwich Rate. | of | Rate. | of | | |

| | | daily |Greenwich | new Rate.| +---------+----------+ Time.+---------+---------+ Time |-------+-----+ |

| | | Rate. | Rate. | | | in | in | | in | in | | great.|least| |

| | | | | | | Space. | Time. | | Space. | Time. | | Height | |

+---------+-------------------+-------+----------+----------+----------+---------+----------+------+---------+---------+------+-------+-----+----------+

| | | ʺ | ° ʹ ʺ | ° ʹ ʺ | ° ʹ ʺ | ° ʹ ʺ | H. ʹ ʺ | M. D.| ° ʹ ʺ | H. ʹ ʺ | M. D.| | | |

| 1776. | +-------+----------+----------+----------+---------+----------+------+---------+---------+------+-------+-----+----------+

|June 11. | Greenwich. | -1,21 | 0 0 0E. | 0 0 0E. | 0 0 0E.| | | | | | | | | |

|Oct. 24. | Cape of Good} | -2,26 | 18 26 30 | 18 26 30| 18 23 15| +0 3 15| 0 0 13,0| 4 23| +0 3 15 | 0 0 13,0| 4 23| 84 | 63 | 30, 0 |

| | Hope } | | | | | | | | | | | | | |

| 1777. | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |

|Feb. 22. | Queen Charlotte’s}| | | | | | | | | | | | | |

| | Sound, }| -2,91 | 175 25 0 | 174 54 25| 174 23 31| 1 1 29| 0 4 5,3| 9 4| +0 30 54| 0 2 3,6| 4 9| 73 | 53 | 30, 0 |

| | New Zealand }| | | | | | | | | | | | | |

| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |

|May 7. | Annamooka | +0,52 | 186 13 26| 186 13 15| 185 11 18| 1 2 8| 0 4 8,5| 11 22| +1 1 57| 0 4 7,8| 2 18| 83 | 74 | 30, 1 |

|June 7. | Annamooka | -0,54 | 186 8 28| 186 12 43| 185 11 18| 0 57 10| 0 3 48,6| 12 25| +1 1 25| 0 4 5,6| 1 3| 79 | 73 | 30, 15 |

|July 1. | Tongataboo | -1,78 | 185 48 50| 184 53 0 | 184 55 18| 0 53 32| 0 3 34,1| 13 21| -0 2 18| 0 0 9,2| 0 24| 85 | 69 | 30, 15 |

|Sept. 1. |Otaheite | -1,54 | 211 41 26| 210 39 8 | 210 22 28| 1 18 58| 0 5 15,8| 15 27| +0 16 40| 0 1 6,6| 2 6| 90 | 70 | 30, 1 |

|Oct. 17. | Huaheine | -2,30 | 210 14 52| 208 50 24| 208 52 24| 1 22 28| 0 5 29,8| 17 17| -0 2 0| 0 0 8,0| 1 18| 90-1/2| 72 | 29, 9 |

|Nov. 7. | Ulietea | -1,52 | 209 42 54| 208 25 22| 208 25 22| 1 17 32| 0 5 10,1| 18 10| 0 0 0| 0 0 0,0| 0 21| 92 | 70 | 29, 7 |

| 1778. | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |

|April 16.| Nootka | -7, 0 | 235 32 45| 233 56 0 | 233 17 8 | 2 15 27| 0 9 1,8| 24 2| +0 28 42| 0 2 34,8| 5 20| 65 | 41 | 30, 0 |

|Oct. 14. | Samganoodha | -8, 8 | 197 44 15| 193 12 35| 193 31 20| 4 12 55| 0 16 51,6| 30 15| -0 18 45| 0 1 15,0| 6 13| 57 | 36 | 30, 15 |

| 1779. | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |

|Feb. 2. | Owhyhee | -9, 6 | 214 7 35 | 203 37 22| 204 0 0| 10 7 35| 0 40 30,3| 34 14| -0 22 38| 0 1 30,5| 3 27| 88 | 70 | 29, 8 |

|May 1. | Saint Peter and} | | | | | | | | | | | | | |

| | Saint Paul, } | T. K. | 173 36 0 | 159 20 0| 158 43 16| 14 52 44| 0 59 30,9| 37 18| -0 36 44| 0 2 16,9| 3 4| | | |

| | Kamtschatka } | stopt.| | | | | | | | | | | | |

+---------+-------------------+-------+----------+----------+----------+---------+----------+------+---------+---------+------+-------+-----+----------+

From this view of the time-keeper it appears, that, for near two years,

it altered its rate very inconsiderably, and therefore, that its error,

according to the Greenwich rate, if we had had no opportunities of

correcting it, would have amounted only to 2-1/4°. That afterward, at

King George’s Sound, or Nootka, it was found to have varied exceedingly;

of course, the longitude, by its Greenwich rate, was becoming

considerably erroneous. About this time, it should be remarked, the

thermometer was varying from 65° to 41°. The greatest alteration we ever

observed in the watch was, during the three weeks we were cruizing to

the north; in which interval, it gave the longitude of the East Cape

with a difference of twenty-eight miles. I have marked the longitude of

Saint Peter and Saint Paul, as given by the time-keeper, notwithstanding

it stopped a few days before we arrived there; this I was enabled to do,

from comparing the longitude it gave the day before it stopped, with

that given by Mr. Bayley’s watch, and allowing for the error of the

latter.

The use of so accurate a measure of time is sufficiently evident, from

its furnishing in itself the means of approximating to the longitude at

sea, as may be seen in the above table. But, besides this, we were

enabled, by the same means, to give a degree of accuracy to the lunar

observations, which they cannot otherwise pretend to; and, at the same

time, by reducing a number of those observations to one time, obtain

results approaching still nearer the truth. In surveying coasts, and

ascertaining the true position of capes and head-lands, it reaches the

utmost degree of practical exactness. On the other hand, it is to be

observed, that lunar observations, in their turn, are absolutely

necessary, in order to reap the greatest possible advantages from the

time-keeper; since, by ascertaining the true longitude of places, they

discover the error of its rate. The original observations, that were

made in the course of this voyage, have been published by order of the

board of longitude; and to those I must refer the reader, for his

further information on this subject.

_N. B._—The observatories were placed on the west side of the village of

Saint Peter and Saint Paul.

Latitude deduced from meridian zenith distances of

the sun, and of five stars to the south, and

five to the north of the zenith 53° 0ʹ 38ʺ north.

Longitude deduced from one hundred and forty-six

sets of lunar observations 158° 43ʹ 16ʺ east.

Longitude by time-keeper, according to its

Greenwich rate 173° 36ʹ 0ʺ

Longitude by time-keeper, according to its rate

found at Owhyhee 159° 20ʹ 0ʺ

Variation of the compass, by azimuths taken with

three compasses, made by Knight, Gregory, and

Martin 6° 18ʹ 40ʺ east.

Dip of the north pole of the magnetic needle,

being a mean of the observations taken in June

and September 63° 5ʹ 0ʺ

It was high water, on the full and change of the moon, at thirty-six

minutes past four, and the greatest rise was five feet eight inches. The

tides were very regular every twelve hours. On the coast, near the bay,

the flood came from the south, and the time of high-water was near two

hours sooner than in the harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul.

CHAP. VI.

GENERAL ACCOUNT OF KAMTSCHATKA.—GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION.—RIVERS.—SOIL.—

CLIMATE.—VOLCANOES.—HOT SPRINGS.—PRODUCTIONS.—VEGETABLES.—ANIMALS.—

BIRDS.—FISH.

Kamtschatka is the name of a peninsula situated on the eastern coast of

Asia, running nearly north and south, from 52° to 61° north latitude;

the longitude of its southern extremity being 156° 45ʹ E. The isthmus,

which joins it to the continent on the north, lies between the gulf of

Olutorsk and the gulf of Penshinsk. Its southern extremity is Cape

Lopatka, a word signifying the blade-bone of a man, and is so called

from its supposed resemblance to it. The shape of the whole peninsula is

not unlike that of a shoe, widening from the toe (which we may suppose

to be Cape Lopatka) toward the middle, and narrowing again toward the

heel, the neck of land above-mentioned connecting it with the continent.

Its greatest breadth is from the mouth of the river Tigil to that of

Kamtschatka, and is computed to be two hundred and thirty-six miles,

from whence it narrows very gradually toward each extremity.

It is bounded on the north by the country of the Koriacks; to the south

and east, by the north Pacific Ocean; and to the west, by the sea of

Okotsk. A chain of high mountains stretches the whole length of the

country, from north to south, dividing it nearly into two equal parts,

from whence a great number of rivers take their rise, and empty

themselves, on each side, into the Pacific Ocean and the sea of Okotsk.

There are three rivers of much greater magnitude than the rest; the

Bolchoireka, or Great River, so called from _bolchoia_, which signifies

great, and _reka_, a river; the river Kamtschatka, and the Awatska. The

first empties itself into the sea of Okotsk, and is navigable for the

Russian galliots upward of five leagues from its mouth, or within nine

miles of Bolcheretsk, a town situated at the conflux of the Goltsoffka

and the Bistraia, which here lose themselves in the Bolchoireka. The

Bistraia itself is no inconsiderable river. It derives its source from

the same mountain with the river Kamtschatka, and, by taking a direct

contrary course, affords the Kamtschadales the means of transporting

their goods by water, in small canoes, almost across the whole

peninsula. The river Kamtschatka, after maintaining a course of near

three hundred miles from south to north, winds round to the eastward, in

which direction it empties itself into the ocean, a little to the

southward of Kamtschatkoi Noss. Near the mouth of the Kamtschatka, to

the north-west, lies the great lake called Nerpitsch, from _nerpi_, a

Kamtschadale word signifying a seal, with which this lake abounds. About

twenty miles up the river, reckoning from the mouth of the lake, is a

fort called Nishnei Kamtschatska _ostrog_, where the Russians have built

an hospital and barracks, and which, we were informed, is become the

principal mart in this country.

The river Awatska arises from the mountains situated between the

Bolchoireka and the Bistraia, and running, from north-west to

south-east, a course of one hundred miles, falls into the bay of

Awatska. The Tigil is likewise a river of considerable size, rising

amidst some very high mountains, which lie under the same parallel with

Kamtschatkoi Noss, and, running in an even course from south-east to

north-west, falls into the sea of Okotsk. All the other rivers of this

peninsula, which are almost infinite in number, are too small to deserve

a particular enumeration.

If I may judge of the soil from what I saw of its vegetable productions,

I should not hesitate in pronouncing it barren in the extreme. Neither

in the neighbourhood of the bay, nor in the country I traversed on my

journey to Bolcheretsk, nor in any of our hunting expeditions, did I

ever meet with the smallest spot of ground that resembled what in

England is called a good green turf, or that seemed as if it could be

turned to any advantage, either in the way of pasturage, or other mode

of cultivation. The face of the country in general was thinly covered

with stunted trees, having a bottom of moss, mixed with low weak heath.

The whole bore a more striking resemblance to Newfoundland than to any

other part of the world I had ever seen.

It must however be observed, that I saw at Paratounca three or four

stacks of sweet and very fine-looking hay; and Major Behm informed me,

that many parts of the peninsula, particularly the banks of the river

Kamtschatka and the Bistraia, produce grass of great height and

strength, which they cut twice in the summer and that the hay is of a

succulent quality, and particularly well adapted to the fattening of

cattle. Indeed it should appear, from the size and fatness of the

thirty-six head that were sent down to us from the Verchnei _ostrog_,

and which we were told were bred and fattened in the neighbourhood, that

they must have had the advantage of both good pastures and meadows. For

it is worth our notice, that the first supply we received, consisting of

twenty, came to us just at the close of the winter, and before the snow

was off the ground, and therefore probably had tasted nothing but hay

for the seven preceding months. And this agrees with what is related by

Krascheninicoff, that there is no part of the country equal in fertility

to that which borders on the river Kamtschatka; and that to the north

and south it is much inferior, both in point of soil and climate. He

relates, that repeated experiments have been made in the culture of

oats, barley, and rye, in different quarters near this river, which have

generally succeeded; that, in particular, some persons belonging to the

convent of Jakutsk, who had settled in that part of the country, had

sown barley there, which had yielded an extraordinary increase; and he

has no doubt but that wheat, in many parts, particularly near the source

of the Bistraia and Kamtschatka, would grow as well as in the generality

of countries situated in the same latitude. Perhaps the superior

fertility of the country here spoken of may, in a great measure, be

accounted for, from its lying in that part of the peninsula which is by

much the widest, and consequently farthest removed from the sea, on each

side. The moist chilling fogs, and drizzling weather, which prevail

almost perpetually along the coast, must necessarily render the parts

adjacent very unfit for all the purposes of agriculture.

It is natural to suppose, that the severity of the climate must be in

due proportion to the general sterility of the soil, of which it is

probably the cause. The first time we saw this country was in the

beginning of May, 1779, when the whole face of it was covered with snow,

from six to eight feet deep. On the 6th we had snow, with the wind from

the north-east. On the 8th of May, at noon, the thermometer stood at

32°; and the same day, some of our men were sent on shore to try to cut

wood; but the snow was still so deep on the ground, as to render all

their attempts fruitless. Nor was it found practicable to proceed in

this necessary business, with all the efforts of a very stout party,

till the 12th, at which time the thaw began to advance gradually. The

sides of the hills were now in some places free from snow; and by the

beginning of June, it was generally melted from the low lands. On the

15th of June, the day we sailed out of the harbour, the thermometer had

never risen higher than 58°, nor the barometer than 30° 04ʹ. The winds

blew almost invariably from the eastward during our stay, and the

south-east was more prevalent than any other.

On our return, the 24th of August, the foliage of the trees, and all

other sorts of vegetation, seemed to be in the utmost state of

perfection. For the remainder of this month, and through September, the

weather was very changeable, but in no respect severe. The winds, at the

beginning of the month, were for the most part easterly, after which

they got round to the west. The greatest height of the thermometer was

65°, the lowest 40°. The barometer’s greatest height 30°, its lowest 29°

3ʹ. So that upon the whole, during this month, an equal and moderate

degree of temperature prevailed. But at the beginning of October, the

tops of the hills were again covered with new-fallen snow, the wind

continuing westerly.

In computing the seasons, the spring ought certainly not to be taken

into the account. From the middle of June to the middle of September may

be properly said to constitute the summer. October may be considered as

an autumnal month; from thence till the middle of June it is perfect

winter. It was toward the end of May that we made our journey, between

Bolcheretsk and Awatska, over the snow in sledges.

It is said that the climate, in the country adjoining to the river

Kamtschatka, is not less serene and temperate than in many parts of

Siberia that are under the same latitude. This variation is probably

owing to the same causes, to which the superior fertility of the soil in

those parts has been before attributed. But it is not in the sterility

of the ground alone that the Kamtschadales feel the unfavourable

temperature of their climate. The uncertainty of the summer season

sometimes prevents their laying up a sufficient stock of dried fish for

their winter’s provision, and the moisture of the air causes worms to

breed in them, which not unfrequently destroy the greatest part.

I do not remember that we had either thunder or lightning during our

stay, excepting on the night of the eruption of the _volcano_; and, from

the account of the inhabitants, they are very seldom troubled with

storms of this kind, and never but in a slight degree. The general

severity of the winter, as well as the dreadful hurricanes of wind and

snow that season brings along with it, cannot be questioned, from the

subterraneous habitations the natives are under a necessity of retiring

to, for warmth and security. Major Behm told us, that the cold and

inclemency of the winter of 1779 was such, that, for several weeks, all

intercourse between the inhabitants was entirely stopped, every one

being afraid to stir, even from one house to another, for fear of being

frost-bitten. This extraordinary rigour of climate, in so low a

latitude, may be accounted for, from its being situated to the east of

an immense uncultivated tract of country, and from the prevalence of the

westerly winds, blowing over so extensive and cold a continent. The

extraordinary violence and impetuosity of the winds, is attributed to

the subterraneous fires, the sulphureous exhalations, and the general

volcanic disposition of the country.

This peninsula abounds in _volcanos_, of which only three have, for some

past, been subject to eruptions. We have already mentioned that which is

situated in the neighbourhood of Awatska. Besides this, there are others

not less remarkable, according to the account given of them by

Krascheninicoff.

The _volcano_ of Tolbatchick is situated on a neck of ground between the

river of Kamtschatka and Tolbatchick. The mountain, from the summit of

which the eruptions proceed, is of a considerable height, and terminates

in pointed rocks. In the beginning of the year 1739, there issued from

it a whirlwind of flames, which reduced to ashes the forests of the

neighbouring mountains. This was succeeded by a cloud of smoke, which

spread over and darkened the whole country, till it was dissipated by a

shower of cinders, that covered the ground to the distance of thirty

miles. M. Krascheninicoff, who was at this time on a journey from

Bolchoireka to the Kamtschatka _ostrog_, at no great distance from the

mountain, relates, that the eruption was preceded by an alarming sound

in the woods, which he thought the forerunner of some dreadful storm or

hurricane, till three shocks of an earthquake, at about a minute’s

interval each, convinced him of its real cause; but that he was hindered

from approaching nearer the mountain by the cinders that fell, and

prevented him from proceeding on his journey.

The third _volcano_ is on the top of the mountain of Kamtschatka, which

is mentioned as by far the highest in the peninsula. A thick smoke never

ceases to ascend from its summit, and it has frequent eruptions of the

most violent and dreadful kind, some of which were much talked of, and

seemed to be fresh in the memories of the Kamtschadales.

The country is likewise said to contain numerous springs of hot water.

The only one that I had an opportunity of seeing was at Natchikin

_ostrog_, and hath been already described. Krascheninicoff makes mention

of several others, and also of two very extraordinary pits or wells, at

the bottom of which the water is seen to boil as in a caldron, with

prodigious force and impetuosity; at the same time a dreadful noise

issues out of them, and so thick a vapour, that a man cannot be seen

through it.

Of the trees which fell under our notice, the principal are the birch,

the poplar, the alder (with the bark of which they stain their leather),

many species of the willow, but all small; and two sorts of dwarfish

pines or cedars.[27] One of these grows upon the coast, creeping along

the ground, and seldom exceeds two feet in height. It was of this sort

we made our essence for beer, and found it excellent for the purpose.

The other grows on the mountains, to a greater height, and bears a small

nut or apple. We were told by the old _Toion_ at Saint Peter and Saint

Paul, that Beering, during the time he lay in that harbour, first taught

them the use of the decoction of these pines, and that it had proved a

most excellent remedy for the scurvy; but, whether from the great

scarcity of sugar, or from what other cause we could not learn, we were

sorry to find that it was no longer in use amongst them.

The birch was by far the most common tree we saw, and of this we

remarked three sorts. Two of them fit for timber, and differing only in

the texture and colour of the bark; the third of a dwarfish kind. This

tree is applied to a great variety of uses by the inhabitants. The

liquor, which, on tapping, it yields in great abundance, they drink

without mixture, or any preparation, as we had frequent opportunities of

observing, upon our journey to Bolcheretsk, and found it ourselves

pleasant and refreshing, but somewhat purgative. The bark they convert

into vessels, for almost all their domestic and kitchen purposes; and it

is of the wood of this tree the sledges and canoes are also made.[28]

The birch, and every other kind of tree in the neighbourhood of the bay,

were small and stunted; and they are obliged to go many miles up into

the country for wood of a proper size to work into canoes, for the

principal timbers of their _balagans_, and the like uses.

Besides the trees above-mentioned, Krascheninicoff relates, that the

larch grows on the banks of the river Kamtschatka, and of those that

fall into it, but no where else, and that there are firs in the

neighbourhood of the river Berezowa; that there is likewise the

service-tree (_padus foliis annuis_); and two species of the

white-thorn, one bearing a red, the other a black berry.

Of the shrub kind, as junipers, the mountain-ash, wild rose-trees, and

raspberry-bushes, the country produces great abundance, together with a

variety of berries; blue-berries of two sorts, round and oval;

partridge-berries, cran-berries, crow-berries, and black-berries. These

the natives gather at proper seasons, and preserve, by boiling them into

a thick jam, without sugar. They make no inconsiderable part of their

winter provisions, and are used as sauce to their dried and salt fish,

of which kind of food they are unquestionably excellent correctives.

They likewise eat them by themselves, in puddings and various other

ways, and make decoctions of them for their ordinary liquor.

We met with several wholesome vegetables in a wild state, and in great

quantities, such as wild celery, _angelica_, chervil, garlic, and

onions. Upon some few patches of ground in the valleys, we found

excellent turnips, and turnip-radishes. The garden cultivation went no

farther; yet from hence I am led to conclude, that many of the hardy

sorts of vegetables (such at least as push their roots downward,) like

carrots, parsnips, and beet, and perhaps potatoes, would thrive

tolerably well. Major Behm told me, that some other sorts of kitchen

vegetables had been tried, but did not answer; that neither any of the

cabbage or lettuce kind would ever head; and that peas and beans shot up

very vigorous stalks, flowered and podded, but the pods never filled. He

likewise told me, that in the experiments made by himself at

Bolcheretsk, with different sorts of farinaceous grain, there generally

came up a very high and strong blade, which eared, but that the ears

never yielded flour.

This short account of the vegetable productions reaches to such parts of

the country only as fell within our notice. In the neighbourhood of the

Kamtschatka river, where (as has been observed) both the soil and

climate is by much the best in the whole peninsula, garden culture is

attended to, and probably with great success, as appears from our having

received at the same time, with a second drove of cattle from Verchnei,

a present of cucumbers, of very large fine turnips, celery, and some

other garden-stuff, of which I do not recollect the kinds.

There are two plants, which, from the great use made of them, merit a

particular mention and description. The first is called by the natives

the _sarana_; and by botanists, _Lilium Kamtskatiense flore atro

rubente_.[29] The stem is about the thickness of that of the tulip, and

grows to the height of five inches, is of a purple colour toward the

bottom, and green higher up, and hath growing from it two tier of leaves

of an oval figure, the lower consisting of three leaves, the uppermost

of four, in the form of a cross: from the top of the stalk grows a

single flower, of an exceedingly dark red colour, in shape resembling

the flower of the narcissus, only much smaller: from the centre of the

flower rises a style of a triangular form, and obtuse at the end, which

is surrounded by six white _stamina_, whose extremities are yellow. The

root is of the bulbous kind, and resembles in shape that of garlic,

being much of the same size, but rounder, and having, like that, four or

five cloves hanging together. The plant grows wild, and in considerable

abundance: the women are employed in collecting the roots at the

beginning of August, which are afterward dried in the sun, and then laid

up for use. On our second arrival, this harvest was just over, and had

fallen much short of its usual produce. It is a common observation

amongst the Kamtschadales, that the bounty of Providence never fails

them; for that such seasons as are most hurtful to the _sarana_, are

always the most favourable for fishing; and that, on the contrary, a bad

fishing month is always made up by the exuberance of the _sarana_

harvest. It is used in cookery in various ways. When roasted in embers,

it supplies the place of bread, better than any thing the country

affords. After being baked in an oven, and pounded, it becomes an

excellent substitute for flour and meal of every sort, and in this form

is mixed in all their soups, and most of their other dishes. It is

esteemed extremely nourishing, has a pleasant bitter taste, and may be

eaten every day without cloying. We used to boil these roots, and eat

them as potatoes, either alone or with our meat, and found them very

wholesome and pleasant. It has been already mentioned, that this useful

plant grows also at Oonalashka, where the roots of it are used, and

constitute a considerable part of their food, in like manner as in

Kamtschatka.

The other plant alluded to is called the _sweet grass_; the botanical

description is, _Heracleum Sibericum foliis pinnatis, foliolis quinis,

intermediis sessilibus, corollulis uniformibus_. Hort. Upsal. 65. The

time I took particular notice of it was in May, when it was about a foot

and a half high, had much the appearance of sedge, and was covered with

a white down, or dust, which looked exceedingly like the hoar-frost

hanging upon it, and might be rubbed off: it tasted as sweet as sugar,

but was hot and pungent. The stalk is hollow, and consists of three or

four joints, from each of which arise large leaves, and, when at its

full growth, is six feet high.

This plant was formerly a principal ingredient in the cookery of most of

the Kamtschadale dishes; but since the Russians got possession of the

country, it has been almost entirely appropriated to the purpose of

distillation. The manner in which it is gathered, prepared, and

afterward distilled, is as follows: having cut such stalks as have

leaves growing on them, of a proper age (the principal stem, by the time

the plant has attained its full growth, having become too dry for their

purpose), and scraped off with shells the downy substance on their

surface, they are laid in small heaps, till they begin to sweat and

smell. On growing dry again, they put them into sacks made of matting;

where, after remaining a few days, they are gradually covered with a

sweet saccharine powder, which exudes from the hollow of the stalk. From

thirty-six pounds of the plant, in this state, they obtain no more than

a quarter of a pound of powder. The women, whose province it is to

collect and prepare the materials, are obliged to defend their hands

with gloves whilst they are scraping the stalks, the rind they remove

being of so acrid a quality, as to blister and even ulcerate whatever it

touches.

The _spirit_ is drawn from the plant in this state by the following

process. After steeping bundles of it in hot water, they promote its

fermentation in a small vessel, by the help of berries of the

_gimolost_[30], or of the _golubitsa_[31], being careful to close up

well the mouth of the vessel, and to keep it in a warm place whilst the

fermentation is going on, which is generally so violent as to occasion a

considerable noise, and to agitate the vessel in which it is contained.

After drawing off this first liquor, they pour on more hot water, and

make a second in the same manner. They then pour both liquor and herbs

into a copper still, and draw off the spirit after the usual method. The

liquor, thus obtained, is of the strength of brandy; and is called by

the natives _raka_. Two pood (seventy-two pounds) of the plant yield

generally one _vedro_ (twenty-five pints) of _raka_.

Steller says, that the spirit distilled from this plant, unscraped, is

exceedingly prejudicial to the health, and produces the most sudden and

terrible nervous effects.

Besides these, Krascheninicoff mentions a variety of other plants, from

whence the inhabitants prepare several decoctions; and which, being

mixed with their fish, make palatable and wholesome ragouts. Such as the

_kipri_[32], with which is brewed a pleasant common beverage; and, by

boiling this plant and the _sweet herb_ together, in the proportion of

one to five of the latter, and fermenting the liquor in the ordinary

way, is obtained a strong and excellent vinegar. The leaves of it are

used instead of tea; and the pith is dried and mixed in many of their

dishes; the _morkovai_[33] which is very like _angelica_; the

_kotkorica_[34], the root of which they eat indifferently, green or

dried; the _ikoum_[35]; the _utchichlei_[36], which is much eaten with

fish; with many others.

It is said, that the Kamtschadales (before their acquaintance with

fire-arms), poisoned their spears and arrows with the juice of the root

of the _zgate_[37]; and that wounds inflicted by them are equally

destructive to land and marine animals. The Tschutski are reported to

use the same drug for this purpose at present.

I shall conclude this part of the natural history of Kamtschatka with an

account, from the same author, of three plants, which furnish the

materials of all their manufactures. The first is the _triticum radice

perenni spiculis binis lanuginosis_[38], which grows in abundance along

the coast. Of the straw of this grass they make a strong sort of

matting, which they use not only for their floors, but for sacks,

bed-clothes, curtains, and a variety of other domestic purposes. Of the

same materials, they also make very neat little bags and baskets, of

different forms, and for various uses.

The plant called _bolotnaia_, which grows in the marshes, and resembles

_cyperoides_, is gathered in the autumn, and carded like wool, with a

comb made of the bones of the sea-swallow; with this, in lieu of linen

and woollen clothes, they swath their new-born infants, and use it for a

covering next the skin whilst they are young. It is also made into a

kind of wadding, and used for the purpose of giving additional warmth to

various parts of their clothing.

There remains still a vulgar and well-known plant, which, as it

contributes more effectually to their subsistence than all the rest put

together, must not be passed over in silence. This is the nettle; which,

as the country produces neither hemp nor flax, supplies the materials of

which are made their fishing-nets; and without which they could not

possibly subsist. For this purpose they cut it down in August, and,

after hanging it up in bundles in the shade, under their _balagans_, the

remainder of the summer, treat it like hemp. They then spin it into

thread with their fingers, and twist it round a spindle; after which

they twine several threads together, according to the different purposes

for which it may be designed.

Though there is little doubt but that many parts of this peninsula would

admit of such cultivation as might contribute considerably to the

comfort of the inhabitants, yet its real riches must always consist in

the number of wild animals it produces; and no labour can ever be turned

to so good account as what is employed upon their furrieries. The

animals, therefore, which supply these, come next to be considered: and

these are, the common fox; the stoat or _ermine_; the _zibeline_ or

sable; the _isatis_ or arctic fox; the varying hare; the mountain rat or

earless marmot; the weasel; the glutton or _wolverene_; the _argali_ or

wild sheep; rein-deer, bears, wolves, dogs.

The fox[39] is the most general object of the chace; and they are found

in great numbers, and of variety of colours. The most common is the same

in species with the European, with this variation, that the colours are

more bright and shining; some are of a dark chesnut, others are striped

with dark-coloured bars; others have the belly black, and the rest of

the body of a light chesnut. Some again are of a very dark brown, some

black, others of a stone colour; and there are a few quite white; but

these last are very scarce. Their fur is exceedingly thick and fine, and

of a quality much superior to those either of Siberia or America. A

variety of artifices are made use of by the hunters to catch this

animal, which, in all climates, seems to preserve the same character of

craftiness and cunning. Traps of different sorts, some calculated to

fall upon them, others to catch them by the feet, others by the head,

are amongst the most common; to which may be added, several ingenious

contrivances for taking them in nets. Poisoned baits are likewise in

use; and the _nux vomica_ is the drug principally employed for this

purpose. Before their knowledge of the Russians, by which they became

acquainted with fire arms, they also carried bows and arrows to the

chace. But since that period, almost every Kamtschadale is provided with

a rifle-barrel gun; and, though far from being dexterous in the use of

it, its superiority over the former instruments he is ready to

acknowledge.

The sables[40] of Kamtschatka are said to be considerably larger than

those of Siberia, and their fur much thicker and brighter, though not of

so good a black as those in the neighbourhood of the Olekma and the

Vitime[41], a circumstance which depreciates their value much more than

their superiority in other respects enhances it. The sables of the Tigil

and Ouka are counted the best in Kamtschatka; and a pair of these

sometimes sell for thirty roubles (five pounds sterling). The worst are

those of the southern extremity. The _apparatus_ of the sable hunters

consist of a rifle-barrel gun of an exceedingly small bore, a net, and a

few bricks: with the first they shoot them when they see them on the

trees; the net is to surround the hollow trees in which, when pursued,

they take refuge; and the bricks are heated and put into the cavities,

in order to smoke them out.

I must refer the reader for an account of the _isatis_[42] or arctic

fox, to Mr. Pennant’s Arctic Zoology, as I never saw either the animal

or the skin, which I understand they set no value upon. The varying

hare[43] is also neglected on the same account. They are in great

abundance; and, as is always the case with this species, turn quite

white during the winter. Our shooting parties saw several of this colour

the beginning of May, but found them so shy, that they were not able to

get within gun-shot.

The mountain-rat or earless marmot[44], is a beautiful little animal,

considerably smaller than a squirrel, and, like it, feeds upon roots,

berries, the cedar apple, &c. which it eats sitting upon its hind-legs,

and holding them up to its mouth with the paws. Its skin is much valued

by the Kamtschadales, is both warm and light, and of a bright shining

colour, forming like the plumage of some birds, various colours when

viewed in different lights.

The stoat or _ermine_[45] is here held in no estimation, and,

consequently never engages the attention of the hunters, because, as I

have heard, its fur is of an ordinary kind. I saw many of these little

animals running about; and we bought several of their skins, which were

of a bad white, and of a dirty yellow toward the belly. The common

weasel[46] is also neglected, and for the same reason.

On the contrary, the skin of the glutton or _wolverene_[47], is here in

the highest repute; insomuch, that a Kamtschadale looks upon himself as

most richly attired, when a small quantity of this fur is seen upon him.

The women adorn their hair with its pats, which are white, and

considered as an extraordinary piece of finery; and they have a

superstitious opinion that the angels are clad with the skins of those

animals. It is said, that this creature is easily tamed, and taught a

number of pleasant tricks.[48]

Having already had occasion to speak as fully as my own knowledge

enables me of the bears, and the method of killing them, I shall only

here observe, that all those I saw were of a dun brown colour; that they

are generally seen in companies of four or five together; that the time

they are most abroad is during the season that the fish (which is their

principal food) are pushing up from the sea into the rivers, and that

they are seldom visible in the winter months.[49]

Their skins are exceedingly useful. They make both excellent warm

mattrasses, and coverings for their beds; comfortable bonnets and

gloves, and good collars for the dogs’ harness. Their flesh, and

particularly the fat, is considered as great delicacies.

The wolves are only seen in the winter; at which season they prowl

about, as I was told, in large companies, in search of prey.

There are rein-deer, both wild and tame, in several parts of the

peninsula, but none in the neighbourhood of Awatska. It is somewhat

singular, that this nation should never have used the rein-deer for the

purposes of carriage, in the same manner as their neighbours, both to

the north and the eastward. Their dogs, indeed, seem fully sufficient

for all the demands of the natives in their present state; and the breed

of Russian horses will, probably, increase with the future necessities

of the country. But when it is recollected, that the use of dogs, in a

great measure, precludes them from the advantage of bringing up any

other domestic animals, it will appear the more extraordinary that they

should not have adopted the services of an animal so much more gentle as

well as powerful.

The _argali_, or wild mountain sheep[50], an animal, I believe, unknown

in Europe (except in Corsica and Sardinia), is here in great plenty. Its

skin is like the deer’s, but in gait and general appearance, it partakes

more of the goat. It has two large twisted horns, sometimes weighing,

when at full growth, from twenty-five to thirty pounds, which in

running, it rests upon its back. These creatures are exceedingly nimble

and swift, haunt only the most craggy and mountainous parts, and make

their way among the steepest rocks with an agility that is astonishing.

The natives work their horns into spoons and small cups and platters;

and have frequently one of a smaller size hanging to a belt, which

serves them to drink out of in their hunting expeditions. This animal is

gregarious. I frequently tasted the flesh of them, and thought it had a

very sweet and delicate flavour; but never had an opportunity of seeing

one alive. I must, therefore, refer the reader for a particular

description of this beautiful animal (for such it is said to be), to the

Memoirs of the Academy of Petersburg, tom. iv. tab. xiii.

I have already observed, that the dogs of this country are, in shape and

mien, exceedingly like the Pomeranian, with this difference, that they

are a great deal larger, and the hair somewhat coarser. They are of a

variety of colours; but the most general is a light dun, or dirty cream

colour. Toward the end of May they are all turned loose, and left to

provide for themselves through the summer, being sure to return to their

respective homes when the snow begins to fall. Their food in the winter

consists entirely of the head, entrails, and back bones of salmon, which

are put aside, and dried for that purpose; and with this diet they are

fed but sparingly. The number of dogs must needs be very great, since

five are yoked to a sledge, and a sledge carries but one person; so

that, on our journey to Bolcheretsk, we required no fewer than an

hundred and thirty-nine, at the two stages of Karatchin and Natchikin.

It is also to be remarked, that they never make use of bitches for the

draft, nor dogs but those that are cut. The whelps are trained to this

business, by being tied to stakes with light leathern thongs, which are

made to stretch, and having their victuals placed at a proper distance

out of their reach; so that, by constantly pulling and labouring, in

order to come at their food, they acquire both the strength of limbs and

the habit of drawing, that are necessary for their future destination.

The coast and bays of this country are frequented by almost every kind

of northern sea-fowl; and amongst the rest are the sea-eagles, but not,

as at Oonalashka, in great numbers. The rivers inland (if I may judge

from what I saw in our journey to Bolcheretsk), are stored with numerous

flocks of wild-ducks, of various species, one kind of which, in

particular, has a most beautiful plumage, and is called by the natives

_a-an-gitche_, a word intended to express its cry, which is not less

singular than agreeable, consisting of three distinct notes, rising at

equal intervals above each other.[51]

There is another species called the mountain-duck[52], which, Steller

says, is peculiar to Kamtschatka. The drake is covered with plumage of

extraordinary beauty. Besides these, we observed a variety of other

water-fowl, which from their size seemed to be of the wild-goose kind.

In the woods through which we passed, were seen several eagles of a

prodigious size, but of what species they were I cannot pretend to

determine. These are said to be of three different sorts; the black

eagle, with a white head, tail, and legs[53], of which the eaglets are

as white as snow; the white eagle, so called, though in fact it is of a

light grey; and the lead, or stone-coloured eagle[54], which is the most

common; and probably those I saw were of this sort. Of the hawk, falcon,

and bustard kind, there are great numbers.

This country likewise affords woodcocks, snipes, and two sorts of

grouse, or moor-game. Swans are also said to be in great plenty; and in

their entertainments generally to make a part of the repast, though I do

not remember to have seen one on any occasion. The vast abundance of

wild-fowl with which the country is stored, was manifest from the

numerous presents we received from the _Toion_ of Saint Peter and Saint

Paul, and which sometimes consisted of twenty brace.

We met with no amphibious sea-animals on the coast, except seals, with

which the bay of Awatska swarmed; as they were, at this time, in pursuit

of the salmon that were collecting in shoals, and ready to ascend the

rivers. Some of them are said to pursue the fish into the fresh water,

and to be found in most of the lakes which communicate with the sea.

The sea-otters[55] are exactly the same with those we met with at Nootka

Sound, which have been already fully described, and where they are in

great plenty. They are also said to have been formerly in equal

abundance here; but, since the Russians have opened a trade for their

skins to China, where they are sold at a price much beyond that of any

other kind of fur, they have been hunted almost entirely out of the

country. Amongst the Kurile islands they are still caught, though in no

great numbers; but are of a superior quality to those of Kamtschatka, or

the American coast.

We are informed, that on Mednoi and Beering’s Island, scarce a sea-otter

is now to be found; though it appears from Muller[56], that in his time

they were exceedingly plentiful.

The Russian voyagers make mention of a great variety of amphibious

sea-animals, which are said to frequent these coasts: the reason why we

saw no other kinds might be, that this was the season of their

migration.

Not having it in my power to treat these articles more fully, I conclude

them with the less regret, since the ingenious Mr. Pennant has a work,

almost ready for publication, entitled, _Arctic Zoology_; in which the

learned will receive full information concerning the animals of this

peninsula. This gentleman has very obligingly communicated to me his

Catalogue of Arctic Animals, with references to his work, and permission

to insert it. It will be found at the end of this chapter; and I feel

myself extremely happy in laying it before the reader, and thereby

presenting him with what could have been furnished from no other

quarter, one entire view of Kamtschadale zoology.

Fish may be considered as the staple article of food with which

Providence hath supplied the inhabitants of this peninsula, who in

general must never expect to draw any considerable part of their

sustenance either from grain or cattle. It is true, the soil, as has

been remarked, affords some good and nourishing roots, and every part of

the country abounds in berries; but though these alone would be

insufficient for the support of the people, yet, at the same time, they

are necessary correctives of the putrescent quality of their dried fish.

In short, fish may, with much greater justice, be here called the staff

of life, than bread is in other countries; since it appears, that

neither the inhabitants, nor the only domestic animal they have, the

dog, could exist without it.

Whales are frequently seen, both in the sea of Okotsk and on the side of

the eastern ocean, and when caught are turned to a variety of uses. Of

the skin they make the soles of their shoes, and straps and thongs for

various other purposes. The flesh they eat, and the fat, is carefully

stored, both for kitchen use and for their lamps. The whiskers are found

to be the best materials for sewing together the seams of their canoes;

they likewise make nets of them for the larger kind of fish; and, with

the under jaw-bones, their sledges are shod. They likewise work the

bones into knives; and formerly the chains with which their dogs are

tied were made of that material, though at present iron ones are

generally used. The intestines they clean, then blow and dry like

bladders, and it is in these their oil and grease is stored; and of the

nerves and veins, which are both strong and slip readily, they make

excellent snares; so that there is no part of the whale which here does

not find its use.

From the middle of May till our departure on the 24th of June, we caught

great quantities of excellent flat-fish, trout, and herrings. Upward of

three hundred of the former, besides a number of sea-trout, were dragged

out at one haul of the seine, the 15th of May. These flat-fish are firm,

and of a good flavour, studded upon the back with round prickly knobs,

like turbot, and streaked with dark brown lines, running from the head

toward the tail. About the end of May the first herring season begins.

They approach in great shoals, but do not remain long on the coast. They

had entirely left the bay before we sailed out of it the first time, but

were beginning to revisit it again in October. It has been already

mentioned, that the herrings were remarkably fine and large, and that we

filled a great part of our empty casks with them. The beginning of June,

large quantities of excellent cod were taken, a part of which were

likewise salted. We caught too, at different times, numbers of small

fish, much resembling a smelt, and once drew out a wolf-fish.

Notwithstanding this abundance of flat-fish, cod, and herring, it is on

the salmon fishery alone that the Kamtschadales depend for their winter

provisions. Of these, it is said by naturalists, there are to be found

on this coast all the different species that are known to exist, and

which the natives formerly characterized by the different months in

which they ascend the rivers. They say, too, that though the shoals of

different sorts are seen to mount the rivers at the same time, yet they

never mix with each other; that they always return to the same river in

which they were bred, but not till the third summer; that neither the

male nor female live to regain the sea; that certain species frequent

certain rivers, and are never found in others, though they empty

themselves nearly at the same place.

The first shoals of salmon begin to enter the mouth of the Awatska about

the middle of May; and this kind, which is called by the Kamtschadales

_Tchavitsi_, is the largest and most valued. Their length is generally

about three feet and a half: they are very deep in proportion, and their

average weight is from thirty to forty pounds. The tail is not forked,

but straight. The back is of a dark blue, spotted with black; in other

respects they are much like our common salmon. They ascend the river

with extraordinary velocity, insomuch that the water is sensibly

agitated by their motion; and the Kamtschadales, who are always on the

watch for them about the time they are expected, judge of their approach

by this circumstance, and immediately let drop their nets before them.

We were presented with one of the first that was caught, and given to

understand that it was the greatest compliment that could be paid us.

Krascheninicoff relates, that formerly the Kamtschadales made a point of

eating the first fish they took, with great rejoicings, and a variety of

superstitious ceremonies; and that after the Russians became their

masters, it was for a long time a constant subject of quarrel between

them, to whom the first should belong. The season for fishing, for this

species, lasts from the middle of May till the end of June.