LOS BORALES.
Aware of the importance of a plentiful supply of water for the cattle
during the season of drought, we resolved to build a large reservoir in
the heart of the savannas before leaving the pampas, and with this
object now turned our steps toward the lagoon of Los Borales--so named
in honor of a species of water lily very abundant on its borders--which,
although quite a lake during the rainy season, often lost its waters by
evaporation and other causes when most needed. This required a dam to be
raised across one of the many creeks traversing these plains in all
directions, to arrest the flow when the floods begin ebbing, thus
leaving an artificial reservoir where previously only an extensive bog
existed. We installed ourselves within the shelter of a solitary grove,
and immediately commenced raising an embankment to several feet above
the level of the plain, taking the earth for the purpose from the bed of
a creek connecting with the lagoon. Digging to the depth of twelve feet,
we came upon a tree with trunk and branches in perfect preservation,
which, although it had evidently been thus entombed for ages, a breath
of air had power to crumble into dust. As from the time of our arrival
it had rained unceasingly, the water rapidly accumulated in the now
completed reservoir, though our satisfaction received something of a
damper from the fact that the fires were thereby constantly
extinguished, until we bethought ourselves of erecting over them a
covering of green boughs about three feet from the ground. Upon this we
laid large pieces of meat, which, covered with palm leaves, were
speedily cooked by the fire beneath.
In that retired and solitary grove, seated on a pack-saddle, and
surrounded by lazos, bridles, and other emblems of our peaceful
occupation, I wrote under the dictation of our Leader, his emphatic
refusal to accept the Presidency of the Republic for a third time.
Little did we then dream that this spontaneous act of political
abnegation would be hailed with exultation by his enemies, in the hope
of working, as it did for a time, his ruin as well as that of the
Republic; and that the same plains where occurred this disinterested
proof of patriotism, should shortly afterward witness a scene of
bloodshed and persecution to him who, not long before, had been the
acknowledged guardian of his country’s liberties.
Thunder storms were now of frequent occurrence. One night we were
awakened by a fearful clap from the approaching tempest. The prospect
was not inviting. Sheltered in our hammocks only by our _toldos_, and
raising among us all but a very small umbrella of philosophy, we awaited
the coming storm. In a moment it was upon its with a raging wind that
threatened to overthrow and crush us beneath the falling branches of the
trees. Then from the heavens descended so continuous a sheet of
commingled fire and flood, that these at last appeared to become a part
of the atmosphere we breathed. Terrified by this fearful uproar, our
_madrina_ of supernumerary horses, which, fearing the snakes, we had
quartered in the bed of a dried-up lagoon, dashed madly across the
plain, in spite of the combined efforts of their keepers. But no sooner
had these refractory animals abandoned the secure pastures for the high
grounds, than, attacked by snakes, three of them paid with their lives
their insubordination, and one of these unfortunates was afterward
brought staggering into the camp, groaning piteously. Unable in the
darkness to discover the cause of his sufferings, a light was speedily
procured by igniting a rag rolled in fat, when a most revolting
spectacle presented itself; the poor beast, so covered with blood that
he appeared literally to have been plunged into a bath of gore, had
evidently been bitten by a snake, possibly the same which in killing the
others had probably nearly exhausted its poison upon them, so that what
remained of the venom had not power to produce immediate death, but
effected a complete diapedesis or transudation of the blood. A
_curandero_ present undertook to restore the poor animal by means of the
famous _oracion_, but on this occasion his skill was vain--the horse in
a short time expiring, apparently in great agony. The groans of the
dying animal, the thundering of the others along the waste, the shouts
and curses of their pursuers, who in the darkness were in danger of
being trampled under the feet of more than three hundred frightened
animals, mingled with the appalling fury of the elements, until it
seemed as though earth and heaven were struggling for the mastery. This
fearful scene oh, my unhappy country! shadowed forth but too faithfully
thy dark night of despotism; the anarchy, contentions, and wretchedness
of thy children; thy ravaged borders, where the “Wise and Good” had
formerly scattered plenty over the smiling land, and portrays now to me
as faithfully the night when I, with a handful of brave youths from
Maracaibo, was surprised upon the borders of its lake by the myrmidons
of the tyrant Monagas, and carried prisoners to the capital while
endeavoring to save the remnant of constitutional liberty in the
republic.
* * * * *
Our men, finding it impossible during the darkness to trace the
horses--among them all of those used for the saddle--were obliged to
postpone their search until sunrise. At length, as if wearied with its
wild orgies, this tumultuous night passed away, and the morning star
appeared leading the timid dawn. The earth, so late the dark abode of
chaos, now in bloom and beauty, seemed the favored daughter of the
spheres, sparkling in liquid gems, and radiant in the gorgeous splendor
of tropical spring, while myriads of white lilies, far as eye could
reach, mantled the plain, flooding with perfume the pure morning air.
Countless flocks of waterfowl, from the tiny _güirirí_ to the
soldier-like crane of the pampas, crowded the miniature lakes, which
the late storm had left in every hollow of the ground, and made the air
resound with their harsh and varied notes. Conspicuous among these last
were the several species of _garzas_--herons--those “Ladies of the
waters, delicate in form, beautiful in plumage, and graceful in their
movements,” whose slender, arching necks, curving here and there above
and through the sprouting grass, reminded one of the deadly snakes
lurking about the plain. There, too, the _carrao_, a bird less
prepossessing in appearance, but endowed with keen perception of a
coming change of weather, announced by loud cries, from which it derives
its name, the near approach of rain with singular precision. Clouds of
fluttering _gaviotas_ or scissor-beaks (Rhynchops) skimmed the water in
wild, irregular flight, ploughing up the smaller fish with their
scissor-like beaks, and vexing the ear with harsh and piercing cries. On
all sides bellowing herds of cattle and troops of emaciated deer
wandered, panting as they sought for water and fresh food; while,
rescued from the torpor into which the protracted summer drought had
plunged them, the drowsy crocodiles and sluggish tortoises moved slowly
over the plain in search of the reviving element.
It was no easy task to keep the fires burning after the deluging showers
of the previous night, in consequence of which we were threatened for a
while with starvation in the midst of plenty, as not only had our
temporary kitchen been destroyed, but every log of wood was drenched
with water; so were also our scanty garments and ponchos, most of them
being likewise in a few hours covered with the larvæ of myriads of
flies which infested our camp. These _petites misères_ were, however,
forgotten for the moment in the all-absorbing topic of the whereabouts
of our runaway horses. Happily the Llaneros, accustomed from their
infancy to observe the instincts of the animals surrounding them,
possess a sort of intuitive knowledge--with them it might be called a
science--of their movements and impulses.
In following the trail of stray animals amidst thousands intercepting
each other in every direction, it is of course necessary to determine
the right one in order to prosecute the search with some degree of
success. The long experience and sagacity of our sturdy majordomo, whose
word was considered infallible in such matters, were of incalculable
advantage on this occasion. Calmly seated on his hammock, his
weather-beaten countenance turned toward the far horizon, he assembled
around him the wearied watchmen of the missing drove, still drenched by
the late tempest; and directing each squad as to the probable course
followed by the separate groups of horses, he ordered them to disperse
over the plain in pursuit of their uncertain errand. As the subsequent
results proved, on the afternoon of the following day, it was executed
with gratifying punctuality; and here I may be permitted to utter a
passing word of praise in behalf of these hardy cavaliers of the desert
plains, upon whose courage and sagacity often depends, not only the
success of such expeditions, but sometimes even the fate of a whole
army, whose progress would be seriously endangered without a competent
body of cavalry to procure the necessary supply of beef. Scantily
provided with raiment, poorly paid, and the simple fare of the Llanos
for rations, they are at the post of duty at all hours, in the hot
sunshine of day, or “in thunder, in lightning, and in rain” by night,
always cheerful and happy, providing they have with them their
inharmonious guitar and plenty of tobacco with which to satisfy their
appetite for stimulus of some sort. Among the various duties of their
vocation, one of the hardest to which they are subjected is that of
keeping a constant watch over the cattle at night to prevent their
dispersion, as they are compelled to remain for hours on horseback and
“wide awake.” In order to accustom the cattle to the voice of their
nocturnal guardians, a constant chant in a peculiarly plaintive strain,
in which cattle seem rather to delight, is kept up until morning, when
only a few horsemen are necessary to retain them within the grazing
ground. Should the unruly herd, despite their vigilance, take alarm, as
is often the case, or evince any symptoms of uneasiness, the first care
of the men is to close in, in circle, and if this prove unavailing, they
place themselves at the head of the stampede, in order to check, if
possible, the progress of the affrighted multitude; but woe to the
unfortunate watchman whose horse, missing his footing, throws his rider,
for he will be trampled to death in an instant!
* * * * *
One afternoon we were apprised by a special messenger from El Frio, that
a tall, red-faced Englishman had arrived from the Orinoco, bringing any
quantity of fire-arms, ammunition, and--what appeared most
extraordinary to our informant--a genuine negro servant who could speak
English. As no written communication had been despatched along with the
bearer of this unexpected piece of intelligence, we had not an idea of
who this British Nimrod might be. We, however, hastened to welcome the
stranger, and for the purpose left Los Borales next morning for
head-quarters. On arriving, we were most agreeably surprised at meeting
no less a personage than Lord James Butler, now, as I understand, Earl
of Ormond. We then recollected that the previous year, when his lordship
had honored us with a visit at our home in the valleys of Aragua, he had
promised that should we carry out our projected expedition to the
pampas, he would meet us there. Accordingly, in expectation of this, he
had quitted Barbadoes--where he was stationed with his regiment--in his
yacht for the river Orinoco. There he left it and prosecuted the
remainder of the voyage in a clumsy bongo, up the Apure, arriving at San
Fernando nearly a month after quitting Ciudad Bolívar. At the former
place he was advised to proceed to Achaguas, where he would most likely
hear of our whereabouts. Obtaining there the requisite information, he
immediately set out for our cattle farm, distant about fifteen leagues;
but instead of providing him with a guide across the trackless waste, he
was merely furnished with a refractory mule, which they assured him
would take him to the next cattle farm, whence he would be directed
onward. He had not proceeded far on his solitary way, when the vicious
animal, taking fright at a prairie-owl just as night was approaching,
suddenly whirled round, and my lord, despite his long legs and English
horsemanship, lost his balance, was dismounted, and, what was worse,
left to shift for himself in the midst of a wide plain; the mule,
finding, perhaps, the load rather too much for him, scampering off
without even a parting compliment. Nor was his sable squire at hand to
render him the requisite assistance, as he had been left behind in
charge of the numberless accoutrements for the chase. Fortunately a peon
accidentally encountered the mule on his way home, and knowing the
tricks of the animal, secured him, and brought him back to the
discomfited traveller.
His lordship related this adventure with much humor, and on our
expressing regret that he had met with so disagreeable a _contretemps_,
he coolly replied that he scarcely considered it in that light, and
rather regretted its speedy termination as having, possibly, deprived
him of some curious experiences.
Although the best room in the house had been prepared for his
accommodation, we observed with surprise that when night came, he
insisted upon having his hammock slung in the open air. This, we
afterward discovered, was in consequence of his great horror for the
_murcielagos_ clinging in clusters to the thatch-roof of the house; and
I must confess also that the guest-chamber in our Manor of the Pampas
had few attractions, and could offer none of the allurements of the
_dulce domo_ to his lordship of Kilkenny Castle. Wines or delicacies of
any kind we had none; but as we were well aware that the hospitable
Englishman always offers some choicer beverage than water to his guests,
we caused an old corozo-palm tree standing in front of the house to be
cut down, and from it we procured every afternoon a plentiful supply of
palm-wine. To obtain this, a trough is scooped out in the upper part of
the stem among the footstalks of the leaves; the opening is then covered
with the square piece of bark just cut out, and the wine or sap allowed
to accumulate in the trough during the night. A few hours are sufficient
to produce a pleasant vinous fermentation with a sweetish taste and a
flavor similar to that of Malaga wine; but if left to ferment for a
longer period, it acquires decidedly intoxicating properties.
Although our sports were nearly over at this time, we endeavored to
entertain our distinguished visitor as well as circumstances would
permit. We escorted him several times to the savannas in search of game,
and even got up a _rodeo_ and branding frolic for his special amusement,
with both of which he appeared highly delighted. During the excitement
of the _rodeo_ he had another adventure, similar to that I have already
related as having occurred to my friend, Mr. Thomas, with a wild bull,
and which came very near proving more disastrous than his lordship’s
previous one with the refractory mule. We had just surrounded a large
herd of cattle, when, like the artist, inspired by the excitement of the
chase and its accompanying scenes, Lord James seized his sketch-book and
commenced to delineate them. He had not been long thus occupied, when a
bull, attracted perhaps by the commanding attitude of the draughtsman,
broke through the ring, and made at him with fury in his eyes.
Unconscious of danger, he continued his occupation with as much
composure as if at a stag-hunt in the West Riding of Yorkshire. It was
too late to render him assistance, and we watched the issue with
breathless anxiety; but the bull, apparently awed by the immovable
attitude of the rider and his fearless composure, contented himself with
making a tremendous demonstration at the breast of the horse without
either touching him or his rider, and then, turning tail, vanished in
the distance. It was highly amusing to hear his lordship inquire the
meaning of all that flourish of trumpets, when a witty Llanero, standing
near, replied to him that it was evidently intended as a salutation from
the wild multitude to the honored guest.
Startled by the noise and rush of so many animals over the plain, the
foxes--in the pursuit of which Englishmen are so lavish of trouble and
expense--could be seen running to and fro, endeavoring to escape; no
sooner did the noble son of Albion discover that this favorite game was
also to be found in the pampas, than he abandoned the exciting hunt of
the wild cattle for the first fox that crossed his path. He had not
proceeded far, however, when another fox, and then another, and finally
a legion of them offered to his eager pursuit. Bewildered by so many
bushy tails, he gave up the chase in disgust; and I am sorry to state
that this species of _embarras de richesse_, spoiled sport for him in
all his subsequent sorties, excepting when, on a visit to the creek of
Macanillal, we “caught a tartar” in the shape of a full-grown
crocodile, which we mistook for a young one. This adventure, however,
afforded him a good deal of amusement, and some surprise to those
engaged in the undertaking. It so happened that only the end of the
reptile’s tail was out of water in a very shallow spot, the rest of its
body being entirely buried among the roots of a large stump. Judging
from the apparent smallness of the tail that we could easily drag out
the creature, and his lordship having expressed a desire to obtain the
specimen for preservation, Roseliano immediately volunteered his
services. He tried in vain, however, to bring it to light unassisted,
whereupon a lazo was brought into requisition, and having noosed the
tail therewith, we succeeded in pulling the reptile out of its
hiding-place, when, to our great astonishment and trepidation, we
discovered that it was a large and full-grown female crocodile with a
brood of young ones among the roots of the old tree. She struggled
furiously in defence of her brood, several of which we captured and
presented to our guest; but when the time came for disposing of the
mother and recovering the lazo, we found that it would prove no child’s
play, inasmuch as she had full command of her jaws. After several
ineffectual attempts to stab her while in water, we succeeded at length
in dragging her partly from her lair, and then only were we enabled to
unfasten the noose. A stab or two in the armpits, causing a flow of
blood, speedily brought the caribes to finish the job, after which we
returned to the house, much gratified at having rid the creek of this
dangerous family.
On our way back I met with a severe accident, and narrowly escaped
serious injury from it. We were cantering along a beautifully level
piece of ground, covered with short grass; this suggested to my English
friends the idea of testing the relative swiftness of our horses. Off we
at once started, and had proceeded but a short distance, when we found
our way obstructed by a dried-up creek. The Englishmen, as a matter of
course, delighted, leaped it at a bound; but my pony, not being
sufficiently strong to clear the obstruction, missed the opposite bank
and fell, rolling over with me into the ditch. I was a good deal bruised
in consequence, and the house being still at considerable distance,
suffered intensely in reaching it. This accident prevented me from
joining in the other sports devised for the entertainment of our noble
guest, who, however shortly afterward bade us adieu and returned to the
sea coast. He preferred, on this occasion, the route through Nutrias and
Barinas, that he might escape the tedious descent of the rivers; a
messenger was therefore despatched to Ciudad Bolívar, ordering his yacht
to meet him at Puerto Cabello. Disabled by my recent mishap, I could
not, much to my regret, accompany him; a guide of his own selection was,
however, furnished in the person of our negro troubadour Quintana, for
whom his lordship had evinced a decided predilection, even extending to
him an invitation to visit “Old England,” the friend and protector of
benighted Africa; but we could not spare him for so long a trip; and as
Llaneros have an innate aversion to trusting themselves on unknown
waters, the acquaintanceship terminated on the borders of the Caribbean
Sea.
After the departure of our noble guest from El Frio, we began to think
that it was also high time for us to be getting ready for our return
homeward. The task of retracing our steps, however, was not an easy
thing to accomplish with three thousand oxen to look after, besides the
other animals we brought there; and this in the face of the approaching
inundation of the savannas.
As soon as our preparations were completed, we took our final departure
from El Frio, which perhaps we were destined never to revisit, stopping
at San Pablo for a few days to make further arrangements at the pass for
crossing the river with our immense train of animals and baggage. On our
way to San Pablo, we were nigh being put to rout, and our labors
scattered to the winds, by an invasion of a small bloody fly termed
_mosquilla_, which makes its appearance at the commencement of the rainy
season, and which, for destructiveness to flesh and blood, surpasses any
thing I have yet seen in the shape of an insect. In an instant we were
enveloped in a swarm of these terrible creatures, which fastened
themselves upon us and the cattle with a tenacity like that of hungry
leeches, maddening both man and beast, and causing streams of blood to
flow from the bites. The only relief we found for a while was to drive
the cattle at full speed across the plain; but this expedient, although
for the time it frightened away the flies, came very near producing also
a complete dispersion of the herd. We therefore resigned ourselves to
endure their torturing attacks until they had gorged themselves with
blood.
[Illustration: OUR LEADER.]