CHAPTER XV.

PLANTS AND SNAKES.

The wide extent of the savannas composing this cattle farm, and the

dispersion of the herds throughout them, compelled us to remove our

quarters to a more central point, from whence we could sally forth in

their pursuit. Orders were issued accordingly for the men to be in

readiness, and the next morning we quitted with regret our comfortable

quarters at the majordomo’s mansion and started for Mata-Gorda, one of

those delightful primeval groves which dot the prairies here and there.

Some idea of the extent of this huge farm may be gathered from the fact

that one may start at a gallop early in the morning from one end of the

savannas and not reach the other until late at night of the same day.

Its area would measure at least eighty square leagues, or about one

hundred and fifty thousand acres of the richest land, but which under

the present backward and revolutionary state of the country is

comparatively valueless to its owner. The number of cattle dispersed

throughout the length and breadth of this wide extent of prairie land

was computed to be about a hundred thousand heads, and, at one time, ten

thousand horses; but what with the _peste_, revolutionary exactions, and

skin hunters, comparatively very few of the former and none of the

latter have been left.

Our first occupation on arriving at the Mata was to set up a hasty ranch

for the protection of our accoutrements and baggage, a structure which

required little labor or expense, the graceful palms affording the best

kind of thatch for the roof, and the surrounding woods sufficient posts

and rafters for the framework. A convenient apartment was provided in it

for the hammocks of our Leader and worthy Surgeon, while the rest of us

were compelled to seek accommodations among the trunks and branches of

the trees.

These arrangements completed, the necessary timber was next cut for the

corrals to be erected for enclosing the coming herds, a work to which

the hunters devoted themselves, while I found greater attractions in my

daily explorations through the tangled forest. The beautiful palms there

claimed my most particular attention. Apart from the splendor of their

growth and other peculiarities to which I have already alluded in a

former chapter, they are sufficient in themselves to supply many of the

domestic and economic wants of man in a primitive state.

I also observed here many useful species of the extensive family of

leguminous plants, such as the _cañafistula_, (Cathartocarpus,) of which

there were several varieties, all of them beautiful timber trees, whose

pods, two feet long, were filled with a black gummy substance possessing

very medicinal properties. In a natural form it affords one of the

mildest and most agreeable cathartics. Belonging to the same family, the

_caro_, _masaguaro_, and _saman_ acacias can scarcely be rivalled in

durability by any other production of the vegetable world. Their pods

also contain a large proportion of a similar gummy substance which

cattle devour greedily, and which fattens them better than any other

kind of fodder.

The _malagueta_ pepper, or donkey-bean, (_Uvaria febrifuga_,) an

excellent febrifuge and antispasmodic, also grows here in the greatest

abundance. Its aromatic seeds are carefully preserved in the tobacco

bladder of every Llanero, along with the tubers of the snake root,

(_Aristolochia bulbosa_,) a plant possessing the same virtues, and

withal the best antidote against the bite of serpents.

Several other medicinal plants, such as the stately _mora_, the wild

sour-sop, and the _mapurite_, are also met with here; the last owes its

name to the peculiar odor, not unlike that of the skunk, which pervades

the whole plant, rendering it any thing but acceptable in the

neighborhood of an encampment.

Of wild fruits there was also a fine array, and among them the most

delicious of all, in my opinion, is the _manirito_, (Anona muricata,) a

fruit scarcely known to horticulture, and still less to the listless

inhabitant of the country where it grows in wild luxuriance; as no one

there has yet thought of bringing it under cultivation. This plant,

which belongs to the same family as do several of the most celebrated

fruit trees of the tropics--the various kinds of custard apples and the

delicious cherimoyer--attains a height of ten feet, and at the season of

maturity, actually bends to the ground beneath its sweet load.

Unfortunately it all ripens at once, so that in a few days the whole

crop disappears. This fruit, like its congener the sour-sop, is covered

with soft prickles. The inside, a sweet and highly aromatic pulp, is

filled with small seeds, which, when the fruit is eaten in large

quantities, as is generally the case, are apt to produce dangerous

strictures. The whole plant is exceedingly fragrant; and by rubbing the

leaves between the hands, they emit a delightful aroma, not unlike that

of new mown hay.

Another pleasant fruit, that I here met also for the first time, was the

wild _madroña_ of the size of a lemon, which it also resembles in shape

and color. It is filled with a most agreeable sub-acid pulp; this

envelops three or four large nuts, not unlike cacao-beans, and tastes

very much like strawberries. The tree producing this delicious fruit

attains a height of twenty feet. The foliage is very dense, with

coriaceous leaves ten inches long, of a brilliant green. A thick yellow

resin, resembling gamboge, exudes from every part of the tree when

wounded; but whether it has been found useful for any particular

purpose, I was unable to ascertain.

Somewhat similar to the latter, although growing upon a plant of an

entirely different nature, is the _cacaita_, or monkey cacao-bean, a

soft and rather insipid fruit, the production of a vine, which monkeys

devour greedily.

By far the largest proportion of the trees were several species of

_guamos_ (Inga lucida) and others of the same order of leguminous

plants, bearing pods eight or ten inches long; these are filled with a

row of black beans, enveloped in a snowy white and sweetish pulp, most

agreeable to the taste. The ripening season of this mild and wholesome

fruit was just commencing, and every day we gathered and consumed

quantities of it.

Another pod-bearing tree of great utility proper to that region is the

_algarrobo_, (Hymenea curbaril,) the locust tree of the New World, which

bears a thick ligneous pod containing several hard, brown, and rounded

beans. These are surrounded by a sweet farinaceous substance, possessing

great alimentary properties. A fragrant resin exudes from the pericarp

of the pods, which, on being burned, yields a perfume similar to the

odor of frankincense combined with that of balsam of Tolú.

I had almost forgotten to mention, among the agreeable fruits of these

parts, several kinds of wild guavas, from the tiny Arrayan, scarcely

distinguishable among the tufts of grass by which it is surrounded, to

the beautiful _paujil_ shrub, bearing in great profusion quantities of

brilliant scarlet, highly perfumed and acidulous fruits. The berry of

the former exactly resembles Jamaica allspice in shape; is quite sweet,

and possesses in a high degree the exquisite flavor and aroma of the

myrtle tribe, to which indeed all these plants belong.

Great care was necessary in selecting spits for roasting the beef, on

account of a most poisonous shrub, the deadly _guachamacá_, abounding

there. It belongs to the extensive family of Apocineæ or Dogbanes, whose

poisonous qualities are known all over the world. So virulent is this

poison, that meat roasted on spits made from the guachamacá, absorbs

sufficient poison to destroy all who partake of it. The lazy Indians

make use of it to kill without trouble the cranes and herons on the

borders of lagoons. For this they procure a number of sardines, besmear

them with the juice of the plant, and spread them along the places

frequented by those birds. The moment one of them seizes the fish, and

before it is fairly swallowed, the bird drops dead; then the indolent

hunter, issuing from his hiding-place, cuts off the parts affected by

the poison, usually the head and neck, and feels no scruple in eating

the remainder.

A dreadful case of poisoning by means of this plant had just occurred at

Nutrias, soon after our arrival on the Apure, which created for a time

great excitement even amidst that scattered population. A woman who

lived with a man in the vicinity of that town became jealous of the

attentions he bestowed upon a charming neighbor of theirs, and

determined to avenge herself, but in some manner that would not excite

suspicion. In those remote regions where coroners and chemists are

unknown, it is impossible to detect murder except where marks of

external violence are visible. Accordingly, she prepared for her lover a

bowl of _masato_, a favorite beverage of the country, made of Indian

corn boiled, mashed in water, and fermented; in this she soaked chips of

the poisonous plant and offered it to him with smiling grace. Delighted

at sight of the tempting bowl, the unsuspecting lover invited several of

his neighbors--among them the hated rival--to share it with him. The

woman, not intending to destroy any but her perfidious lover, during his

absence prepared another bowl, omitting this time the poison. Llanero

politeness obliged the host, however, to mix his portion with the

others, which having done, he invited the company to dip their calabash

cups into the bowl. Out of eleven persons there assembled, among them

several children, not one escaped except the wicked perpetrator of this

wholesale murder; nor even the donkeys and fowl of the household, as

their attentive master had thrown them the remains of the deadly

mixture.

Such is the dread in which the Llaneros hold this plant, that I was not

even permitted to preserve the specimens of fruit and flowers I had

collected, with the object of ascertaining, on my return to the Valleys,

the botanical characters of the species. They almost threatened to

desert, if I insisted upon carrying the leaves among the baggage.

The propagation of this plant throughout the Apure appears to be of

recent origin, none of the oldest inhabitants recollecting to have met

with it until within comparatively a short period.

* * * * *

The men had no small trouble in clearing our camp of many noxious

reptiles; and it became our regular afternoon business to hunt for

snakes. We succeeded in killing a great number in the vicinity of the

ranch, some very poisonous, while others were quite harmless; of the

latter class I found two species of coral snakes, against which an

unjust prejudice exists, that they are among the most poisonous. Of the

former, the _matacaballo_ is the most to be feared. Although scarcely

larger than a good-sized earthworm, his bite is nevertheless almost

instantaneously fatal to man and beast. Unlike his other sluggish and

torpid congeners, this little snake is the more dangerous because always

on the alert. The tramp of a horse, especially, never fails in rousing

them, against which noble animal they evince an inveterate rancor. I was

once occupied in sketching one of these snakes, which I had permitted to

live for the purpose, and I observed that whenever a horse approached

us, the snake rapidly turned his head in the direction of the sound,

seeming as if anxious to strike the animal with his fangs; but as I had

fortunately taken the precaution of disabling him by partially breaking

his spine, he could make but little progress toward the object of his

dislike.

The tendinous part between the hoof and ankle-joint of the horse being

nearest the ground, is consequently most exposed to the bite of the

_matacaballo_; and although the distance from the ankle to the heart is

very great, it not unfrequently happens that the animal drops as if

touched by the electric spark, from which fact I infer that this poison

acts on the nervous system as well as on the blood. Horned cattle and

pigs are fortunately shielded by the thickness of their skin from the

fangs of this destroyer, which cannot penetrate it. Hence this snake has

been termed, _par excellence_, matacaballo, literally horse-killer.

[Illustration]

It was at one time extremely dangerous to drive horses across the banks

of these savannas where snakes are always most abundant; their numbers,

however, have been considerably diminished since the immense

multiplication of pigs in those regions.

Horses have there also another dangerous enemy--a great hairy spider or

species of the tarantula; this inflicts a very poisonous and painful

sting just above the hoof, which in time drops off, although it is never

followed by death.

But among all these evil creatures, there is none so disgusting or so

dangerous as the rattlesnake. The virulence of its poison, and the great

size attained by some, renders them the terror of every man and beast

where they abound. Fortunately for mankind, they have been provided by

an ever-watchful Providence with what is termed a rattle; this is

composed of a number of horny rings placed at the end of the tail,

which, on being shaken, produce a peculiar sound, and serve as warning.

It is said that Nature every year adds one of these rings, thus marking

the age of the reptile. From its loathsome body is exhaled a strong

odor, somewhat resembling musk, in itself sufficient to warn the most

careless, as it is perceptible at the distance of a hundred feet. The

head is peculiarly flat and broad, and the eyes sparkle in the darkness

like specks of fire. The mouth is a ghastly aperture, whence issues a

black and forked tongue, which the reptile moves incessantly when

irritated. Two long fangs, curved inwardly, project in front of the

upper jaw, and through them the fatal venom is discharged. The poison is

secreted from two glands in the form of small bags at the root of the

fangs, admirably adapted for the purpose, being hollow inside throughout

their whole length, and by their pressure against the glands produced by

the act of biting, the liquid is ejected into the wound. Fortunately,

this snake is the slowest in its motions, and the most torpid of its

kind, otherwise the mischief done by them would be much greater, they

being very abundant also in the Llanos. Their favorite haunts are the

hollow trunks of decayed trees and deep fissures in the ground.

Occasionally they are found coiled among thick clumps of grass, which

shelter them from the glaring sun; but they are always ready to strike

any intruder. At night they issue forth in quest of game, returning

again to their hiding-places before sunrise.

In addition to the foregoing, there are several other kinds in the

Apure; among the harmless ones the _sabanera_ is very abundant in the

savannas, from which it is named. Some of these are ten feet long and

occasionally even more. They glide over the ground with astonishing

rapidity, making all varieties of contortions with their bodies, the

forward part of which they keep all the while raised in a vertical

position. These snakes are very useful, as they destroy all the

poisonous kinds they encounter.

The beautiful coral snake, with alternate rings of red, black, and

white, is occasionally seen in the vicinity of ant-holes. Most persons

attribute to it very poisonous qualities; but I have examined its mouth

carefully and found there no fangs, nor any of the characteristics of

poisonous snakes.

[Illustration]

In the same category is placed another inoffensive reptile, a cecilia,

emphatically styled _culebra de dos cabezas_, or two-headed snake--so

named on account of having both ends of its body of equal thickness,

while the eyes are almost invisible. It seems the connecting link

between snakes and earthworms, partaking of the nature of both, is about

a foot long, and rather disproportionately thick for its length, while

its body is covered with minute scales. As this snake has the power of

moving backward or forward with equal facility, it is supposed by many

to be actually possessed of two heads. There is abundant nourishment for

it in the ant nests which it frequents, but it feeds also on earthworms,

and the larvæ of insects, pursuing them with unrelenting perseverance

through the ground. The double motion of this reptile, its great

muscular powers and flexibility enable it to penetrate the deepest

recesses of a colony of ants, and to pierce the earth with wonderful

expedition in search of prey.

ANTIDOTES.

Several antidotes are recommended for the venomous bite of snakes; some

of them possess real alexipharmic virtues, as the _raiz de mato_, to

which I have already alluded under the name of Aristolochia bulbosa, and

the _guaco_, (Mikania Guaco,) a composite plant which the learned Mutis

has rendered so celebrated through the instrumentality of Humboldt; the

others, however, are nothing more than superstitious imaginings, which

see in the tooth of a crocodile extracted on Good Friday, or in some

unmeaning orison whispered in the sufferer’s ear, greater powers than

in all the resources of medical science. Yet such is the leaning of the

benighted children of Nature in these regions toward the supernatural,

that they always give the preference to whatever savors most of the

miraculous. Somewhat of this has doubtless arisen from the mistaken idea

that all snakes are poisonous. Thus if it so happen that the incantation

is whispered over a person who recovers, having been bitten by a

harmless snake, his cure is of course attributed to magic, which is

accordingly proclaimed a sovereign remedy for all similar cases in

future. Saint Paul, as I have already mentioned, possesses not only the

power of arresting the fatal spring of a snake, if invoked in time, but

can also neutralize the poison, even when it is circulating through the

veins. Notwithstanding my want of faith in the intervention of the saint

in question, I confess myself to have been on an occasion extremely

puzzled by one of these cherished superstitions, the famous _Oracion de

San Pablo_, and up to this period have not been able to account for it

in a manner satisfactory to my common sense. As we were one afternoon

driving home a herd of cattle, the majordomo’s horse was bitten by a

_matacaballo_, when at a short distance from the ranch. The rider

observed his sudden start, and at once mentioned the cause thereof. The

ground, overgrown with grass, was diligently searched, and the snake

discovered and killed on the very spot pointed out by the majordomo, who

in the mean time had hastened forward with his horse to the ranch,

knowing that the strength of the poor animal would soon give way.

Scarcely had he alighted when his horse, covered with a cold sweat,

dropped to the ground. A _curandero_ or snake doctor immediately

presented himself and commenced a series of incantations over the

prostrate animal, which it was supposed would soon counteract the

poison. I was anxious to administer spirits of hartshorn, a

well-authenticated remedy for such cases, but the Llaneros opposed this

resolutely, on the ground that it would interfere with their own. The

_Oracion_ was accordingly whispered in the horse’s ear and the patient

then removed to a convenient pasture, where he could find abundant feed

if fate ever restored his appetite. Here he was left, rolling upon the

ground and moaning piteously, while I was positively assured by the men

that in the course of two hours, at most, he would be completely

restored, and my scepticism confounded. Singularly enough, the remedy

acted in this case like a real charm; at the appointed time the horse

started to his feet and commenced browsing the grass around him with as

much gusto as if he had experienced no ailment whatsoever. Whether the

venom of the snake was not, in this instance, strong enough to kill the

horse; or, what is more probable, the reptile’s fang might not have

penetrated deep enough, are questions which cannot be decided, but

shortly afterward the same horse, a beautiful but wild and vicious young

stallion, came very near kicking to death the _curandero_ who restored

him to health.

The Llaneros are not, however, the only people in the country who have

faith in these miraculous cures. It is more or less entertained

throughout the country by persons more enlightened in other respects

than they. It is asserted of a famous _curandero_ in the Valleys of

Aragua, that in extreme cases, if prevented from going in person to the

patient, it was only necessary to send his hat! By placing this talisman

on the injured man’s head, it would not only afford immediate relief,

but arrest the progress of the venom until the owner could come himself

to perfect the cure.

* * * * *

Another singular practice obtains among Llaneros; it is that of

inoculation with the juice of certain plants possessing alexipharmic

virtues, after which the most poisonous snakes may be handled with

impunity. It is asserted, moreover, that _cerrados_--as individuals thus

inoculated are termed--are not only proof against the bite of these

reptiles, but can attract them around their persons by merely clapping

of hands or whistling for them in fields where they abound. Having never

witnessed any of these experiments, I will neither undertake to uphold

the truth of this assertion, nor will I question its veracity; but there

are hundreds of reliable persons in the country who will unhesitatingly

swear to its efficacy; among them, is the testimony of Dr. Benites, a

professional gentleman who has published the result of his experiments

in a small book on the Materia Medica of the country. With the view of

ascertaining the alleged properties of the guaco he devoted a great

portion of his time while at La Victoria in experimenting with various

kinds of snakes; from him I quote the following passage: “The guaco

possesses in a high degree the faculty of preserving man and animals in

general from the terrible and fatal effects of the bites of serpents.

This valuable secret, discovered in Bogota by the celebrated naturalist,

Don Celestino Mútis, in 1788, remains still as such among some

_curanderos_ of our own country, who, under certain mysterious forms,

and availing themselves of the fangs of serpents, puncture several

slight incisions in certain parts of the body, which they fill with the

powdered leaves of the guaco previously made dry, and administer the

same internally mixed in common rum. This property of the guaco is so

reliable, inoculation by means of the juice such as was practised by

Mútis himself so well authenticated, and the facts concerning it so well

attested, that there cannot longer exist the least doubt in regard to

its efficacy. I wished to convince myself by actual experiment, and can

testify that in a thousand trials of inoculation practised by myself in

different ways on patients whom I allowed to be bitten by various kinds

of snakes, I never knew one to fail. Suffice it to say that the

principal amusement of children in this place is to catch, carry about

and play with snakes, and that even young ladies keep them in their

bosoms or coil them around their necks.”

It appears, nevertheless, absolutely necessary to renew the inoculation

at different epochs of a man’s life, as in the case of vaccination it

loses its power after a time. It was no doubt owing to his neglect of

the rule, that a gentleman in the town of Ocumare some years ago fell a

victim to his blind confidence in this sort of inoculation. Don N.

Ugarte had kept a rattlesnake in a drawer during four years; with it he

occasionally amused himself, no more harm resulting therefrom than if it

had been a kitten. One day on returning home from his rounds in the

plantation, he felt in the humor of playing a little with his old pet,

and accordingly took him out of his berth and placed him upon the

writing desk before him. One of the children who had also been

inoculated happening to be near, the father suggested that he should

kiss the reptile; to this, the child objected very decidedly; the

foolish parent, however, insisting, the mother interfered and begged

that her child should not be compelled to touch the loathsome creature;

whereupon the father exclaimed: “How foolish you are! I will show you

how it kisses me. Now, then, pet, give me a kiss;” and so saying, he

leaned forward toward the snake; true to its instincts, the reptile

sprang to his lips and implanted such a kiss that its master never

recovered from the effects. Both fangs of the snake went quite through

his upper lip, and he at once felt himself to be mortally wounded. A

physician was sent for without delay, but he expired before assistance

could reach him.

The guaco is employed, moreover, in various other disorders of the

system with great success. In chronic rheumatism it is an invaluable

remedy both in the form of poultices made of the fresh leaves, or by

simply rubbing the part affected with a decoction of the plant in

spirits, and taking internally one or two ounces of the expressed juice,

morning and evening. Administered in the latter form it is an

efficacious remedy against hydrophobia, if given immediately after the

person has been bitten by a mad dog. General Paez was thus saved, when a

youth, from this dreadful scourge of tropical countries; he has

nevertheless retained in after life some evil effects of the virus still

in his system manifesting itself in a tendency to severe spasmodic

affections, especially at sight of a snake, which invariably induces

violent convulsions.

[Illustration: ARISTOLOCHIA APURENSIS.--NATURAL SIZE.]

Next to the guaco in importance as an alexipharmic, may be classed the

_raiz de mato_ including several varieties of Aristolochias, the roots

of which are intensely bitter. As its name implies, it is said to afford

the _mato_--a large species of lizard--a prompt antidote against the

bite of his old antagonist, the snake. There would seem to exist some

ancient grudge between these two reptiles, many persons asserting that

whenever they come in sight of one another, they instantly rush to the

attack, the _mato_ never failing to overcome his rival by his superior

botanical knowledge; this, or his instinct, prompts him to seek the

plant, and swallowing some of the leaves, returns recuperated to the

fight.[28]

To the facts adduced above, I now have the pleasure of adding the

testimony of such an authority as Gosse, who has devoted an entire

chapter of his truly romantic book[29] to the consideration of a subject

“well worthy of minute investigation by able and unprejudiced men of

science, willing to receive unscientific information and suggestions, in

various parts of the world, particularly in the intertropical regions of

both hemispheres.” Among the many well-authenticated incidents recorded

by him, I select the following as bearing a striking similarity to the

one just mentioned: “Some animals, especially those which prey upon

serpents, seem to be proof against their bites. The ichneumons, or

mangoustes of Africa and Asia, have long been celebrated for their

immunity, and veritable stories have been narrated of their having

recourse to some herb, when bitten, after which they successfully

renewed the attack. Percival, in his account of Ceylon, relates that a

mangouste placed in a close room where a venomous serpent was, instead

of darting at it, as he would ordinarily have done, ran peeping about,

anxiously seeking some way of escape; but finding none, it returned to

its master, crept into his bosom, and could by no means be persuaded to

face the snake. When, however, both were removed out of the house into

the open field, the mangouste instantly flew at the serpent, and soon

destroyed it. After the combat the little quadruped suddenly disappeared

for a few minutes, and again returned. Percival concludes, not

unreasonably, that during its absence it had found the antidotal herb,

and eaten of it. The natives state that the mangouste resorts on such

occasions to the _Ophiorhiza mungos_, whose root is reputed a specific

for serpent-bites. This is a cinchonaceous plant, so intensely bitter

that it is called by the Malays by a name which signifies earth-gall.”

How wonderful the provisions of bountiful Nature are; and still more

singular the readiness of the human intellect, whether in a rude or a

cultivated state, to make them subservient to its wants! The most

extraordinary antidote against the bite of serpents yet within my

knowledge, is the one employed on the coast of Cartagena, not the

“earth-gall,” which they possess of the bitterest kind in Aristolochia

unguicida, but the gall of the reptile itself, an alcoholic solution of

which, administered to the patient in small doses, rubbing the wound

with the same, or with spirits of ammonia, being sufficient to

counteract the virus of the most deadly serpents of that region.

Travels and adventures in South and Central America. First series Life in the Llanos of Venezuela · 第 15 / 29 章