CHAPTER XIV.

BRANDING SCENES.

“Entre tanto en ancha hoguera

Como encendido tizon,

Ya la marca centellea

Con chispas de azul punzó.”

VENTURA DE LA VEGA.

It was late in the evening when we partook of our only meal that day,

and we afterward retired to rest, but not to sleep, owing to the

incessant noise made by the cattle in the corrals, who, during the whole

night, were rushing to and fro as if goaded by demons. Sometimes we

feared that the fences would give way before their mad onset, while the

dust rose in suffocating clouds, filling the atmosphere and mingling

with our food, which was thus rendered almost unfit for use. The

bellowing, roaring, and moaning of the herd could only be likened to the

wild confusion of a battle-field. Many of the savage bulls in their fury

turned their horns, sharp as bayonets, against their own kindred. The

proud padrote, his dusky mate, and the tender heifer shared alike in the

slaughter. The next day numbers lay gored to death in the dust of the

corrals, while others presented ghastly wounds. Soon the carcasses began

to putrefy, which, added to the particles of dust floating through the

air we breathed, rendered the atmosphere intolerable. Many more of the

cattle died of suffocation, and others from an infectious disease

induced by the crowded state of the herd and the noxious exhalations

from the carcasses. We therefore lost no time in branding them that they

might be set free, lest the infection should extend to the whole herd.

Animals affected in this manner exhibit no symptoms of the disease until

immediately prior to their demise, when they are observed to stagger a

few paces and drop suddenly, as if shot by a rifle ball; and yet the

vultures seem to possess an intuitive knowledge of this approaching

dissolution, in proof whereof, numbers of these feathery satellites of

death can be seen hovering around an animal which the scourge has

doomed, although it is apparently still in perfect health. The

infection, fortunately, is confined to the horned cattle, no instance of

its transmission to other creatures occurring, except in the case of men

venturing to skin the carcasses, when it assumes a different form.

Persons who have thus exposed themselves are seized with a horrible

swelling of the neck, commencing with a pimple not larger than a pin’s

head, and gradually increasing in size until it extends to the

cerebellum. Death is the inevitable result if the patient is not

promptly attended by a skilful physician. There were two or three cases

of the kind among our own people, but by careful treatment we were

fortunate enough to save them. There are, however, every year many poor

fellows in that improvident region, who, not having the same advantages,

are often carried away by the distemper.

The branding of cattle, as conducted in extensive establishments, is a

real festival for the sport-loving people of the Llanos; and each one

feels himself as deeply interested therein as though assisting at a

grand bull fight--the time-honored amusement of the descendants of

Pelayo, the Cid, and other worthies of like celebrity; and indeed the

former, or _hierra_, as that wild pageant is termed, with all its

incidents and dangers, all its noise and bustle, is perhaps the grandest

spectacle of the kind that could be devised for the entertainment and

training of that chivalric race. It is undoubtedly one of the wildest

scenes ever beheld in the pampas, and one which afforded me exceeding

pleasure from the variety of incident accompanying it. The majada is, in

fact, the school in which from infancy the Llanero is trained to conquer

or to die in daily struggles with the brute creation. It is a veritable

Olympic Circus, where the agility and strength for which he is famed are

displayed during the exciting operations performed upon the savage

denizens of the savannas, branding and marking the calves, sawing off

the horns of furious bulls and converting them into oxen for the

improvement of their flesh and disposition.

On the day appointed, all animals confined in the _majada_ are driven

into the _corralejas_ or smaller corrals adjoining the great enclosure,

and there packed as closely as possible to prevent the bulls, always

ready to strike, from doing much mischief among their own kindred.

Meantime the men prepare their lazos and station themselves according to

their respective strength and ability, while the boys kindle a blazing

fire in a safe corner of the _majada_, in which the various brands to be

used are kept at a red heat. These brands generally represent the

initials of the owner, or some sort of hieroglyphic stamp affixed to the

end of a long handle. A record of these is kept by the Justice of the

Peace in each district; and it is considered a great crime to alter or

in any unauthorized manner efface their impression from the skin of

animals. The cattle are usually branded on the haunches; but whenever a

horse, mule, or mare is sold, the brand in a reversed position is again

affixed, this time on its shoulder, followed by the buyer’s brand, the

same operation being repeated whenever the animal changes hands, so that

some poor beasts come at last to be quite disfigured with deep scars.

When all is ready for the fray, the majordomo, climbing to the highest

post of the enclosure, from whence he directs operations, gives the

signal. Here he keeps an account of the calves branded, by notching a

long strip of raw hide. A number of these strips, called _tarja_ or

tally, are carefully preserved in every cattle farm as a record to be

laid before the owner at the year’s end in lieu of balance-sheet.

The principal business of the day being that of branding the calves

collected at the _rodeo_, two or three men armed with lazos, fearlessly

enter the pens at peril of life and limb--for the mothers are ever ready

to defend their young--and proceed to drag the calves out singly by

means of the lazo, though not without many obstinate struggles on their

part, and the more formidable resistance of their parents, which are

kept back at the point of the _garrocha_ by men stationed on the fences.

The contest, however, is not of very long duration; the calf nearly

choked by the lazo, and tormented by a cruel twisting of his tail,

springs forward toward the branding place. The moment he passes the

threshold, one or two little imps pounce upon the tail, jerking it until

they succeed in throwing him down; the lazo is then quickly removed, and

the captor hurries back to the pen for another calf. When a number have

been thus secured, a man goes round with the brand, and in a very short

time the whole lot are stamped with the burning seal of the estate

amidst the piteous bellowings and ineffectual kicks of the helpless

creatures.

These operations, although performed on young animals, are not so easily

accomplished as might be supposed; it being not unusual for full-grown

ones to spring over the fences, or force their way through the narrow

gate of their pen. At such times, the operators outside are in imminent

danger of being assailed by the fugitives, if the latter are not

promptly secured by men stationed for the purpose at the gate of the

_corralejas_. It becomes a much more serious business when a powerful

bull is lazoed. He not only refuses obstinately to be dragged out like a

calf, but requires the combined force and skill of all the men to compel

him from the pen, although the gate is purposely left wide open. In such

cases a picador, climbing to the top of the fence, endeavors to drive

out the animal by repeated thrusts of the goad; that also failing,

another lets himself down close to the bull’s tail, which he twists

violently, and this seldom fails to drive the refractory creature madly

out, followed by the shouts and huzzas of his cruel tormentors. The next

proceeding is to throw him for the purpose of regaining the lazo, and

for the performance of the above-mentioned operations. This, however, is

no easy matter, from the frantic plunges of the bull, who has the entire

range of the lazo. The only certain method is that of dragging him close

upon a post--_botalon_--driven into the ground, where his overthrow is

finally accomplished by the united efforts of several men, one grappling

his hind legs, another seizing the tail, while two others keep a steady

hold of the thong, until the animal, at last exhausted, drops heavily to

the ground.

To justly appreciate scenes like these, one must himself behold the

dusky athlete battling single-handed with a bull just escaping from the

corral. Seizing him by a horn with one hand, the Llanero still holding

it watches his opportunity until he can grasp with the other the

animal’s tail. The bull is then allowed to run as fast as he will, as

the greater his speed the more easily his downfall is accomplished. If

the bull moves too slowly, a few impressive jerks generally accelerate

his speed; but occasionally he returns the compliment by turning

fiercely upon his tail-bearer, who, if not very nimble, risks being

gored to death; yet his skilful antagonist, not only usually succeeds in

evading his attack, but speedily contrives to throw him. No sooner does

this occur, than the vanquished one is surrounded by a host of merry

yelling vagabonds, one brandishing a huge knife, which he sharpens on

the horns previous to performing the operation which transforms the

animal into an ox, and if not previously marked, cuts his ear according

to the rule of the estate whose property he is; another holds a red-hot

brand, which he implants at once upon the quivering hide; while a third

with a small hand-saw cuts off the sharp points of the horns. The whole

operation scarcely occupies three minutes’ time; but notwithstanding

this, the danger is very great if the bull succeed in regaining his feet

before it is finished, as, instead of being subdued, no sooner is he

free, than he turns upon his assailants in renewed fury, and then those

valiant heroes may be seen scattering about the arena like a flock of

partridges. With nostrils widely distended, and foaming at the mouth,

the bull for an instant stands an embodiment of rage and terror,

endeavoring to discover the objects of his vengeance. None, however, are

presumptuous enough to await his onset; they would be levelled with the

dust in an instant, and his conquerors therefore adopt the wiser policy

of a speedy retreat to the highest fence, whence they pour a volley of

abuse upon his shaggy head.

Occasionally, while the men were engaged with one bull, several others

effected their escape in spite of the men whose business it was to

prevent it. The situation of the others then became critical in the

extreme, being exposed to the attacks of the fugitives on the one hand,

and to those of the prisoner on the other; this last they were often

compelled to abandon in the midst of their labors. Those who held

younger animals formed with their bodies a sort of barricade with which

to fend off the aggressor, when no other expedient could be resorted to.

At times it appeared almost impossible to escape the impetuous charge of

the bulls, especially when the men were some distance from the fences;

the only remaining means of safety then consisted in throwing themselves

flat upon the ground at the moment the bull aimed a stroke, as in that

case the animal invariably jumped over their bodies. It is asserted that

bulls in charging always close their eyes, thus missing in blind

precipitancy many excellent opportunities for avenging the outrages

perpetrated on their race. Not so the cows, who are said to keep their

eyes fully open when they are bent on mischief, seldom if ever turning

from their intended victim without leaving some mark, of either horn or

hoof, in token of displeasure.

On one occasion our leader himself very narrowly escaped from one of

these infuriate feminalities in spite of his ability in dealing with

wild cattle, and his dexterity in avoiding their attacks. We had just

entered the _majada_, and were making preparations for the coming

frolic. We stood under the shade of a splendid _matapalo_ or wild

fig-tree growing within the great enclosure, when a cow, which had left

her young behind while chased in the savanna, feeling rather uneasy in

consequence, cleared the fence of the pen wherein she was confined, and

the next moment was among us. All retreated to the fences, excepting our

leader, who, ever rather sensitive about turning his back upon an enemy,

stood his ground somewhat protected by the stout body of the tree. The

cow at first appeared to pay but little attention to him, making

straight for the gate of the _majada_, which she, unfortunately, found

strongly barred against her escape. Then retracing her steps, she sought

to avenge her evident disappointment upon the gentleman in white, whom

she very well recollected having left at the foot of the old _matapalo_.

Still the undaunted soldier, although repeatedly urged by his men to

fly, scorned the idea of seeking the _talanquera_, or, in other words,

climbing the fence in a hurry, thinking at first to avoid the enemy by

stepping round and round the tree; but the cow was too cunning to be

cheated in this manner. After thus chasing him in vain for a few

minutes, she suddenly changed her course, seeking him in the opposite

direction, which brought them face to face. Unfortunately, the General,

who had that morning been sitting for his likeness in the full costume

of the Llanos which he still wore, found himself rather embarrassed in

his movements by the wide folds of the _manta_. This prevented him from

drawing the sword he had retained, which was his first impulse; and he

therefore retreated a few paces into a more open space where he could

_torear_ her until others came to his assistance. With the subtlety of

her sex the cow at once perceived his intentions, and rapidly following

his every movement, watched her opportunity to strike him on the side;

but he, precisely at the right instant, with great presence of mind

threw himself flat upon the ground just as she aimed the blow. Instead,

however, of jumping over him, as is usual with bulls in similar cases,

the cow rushed upon him, when his adroitness in grasping one of her

fore feet so firmly as to arrest further attack until others came to his

relief, prevented any injury beyond a slight scratch on his side and

tearing his _manta_.

It is needless to add that after so disrespectful an assault upon the

revered person of our leader, the cow received no gentle treatment at

the hands of the indignant _vaqueros_: some were for despatching her at

once for their evening meal; others, for affixing a dry hide to the end

of her tail and letting her loose over the plain; while a few,

compassionating her ignorance, among them the aggrieved owner, were only

for depriving her of the means of doing further mischief with the horns.

This opinion prevailing at last over all others, the ruthless hand of

the executioner at once applied the saw to the pride of her head, after

which she was allowed to depart in peace. Thus ended a short, but not

altogether inglorious struggle, which, but for the cunning and address

displayed on both sides, might have terminated fatally to either of the

parties engaged in it.

* * * * *

After the _corralejas_ had been emptied of their contents, there still

remained in the _majada_ several bulls at large, which had escaped

during the confusion; and many of these not yet having been operated

upon, another most exciting chase was afforded to the indefatigable and

athletic hunters. The narrowness of the field, however, which precluded

the use of horses, and the fact that each bull required to be captured

with the lazo, occasioned serious obstacles and much risk to the men

engaged therein. Lack of volunteers there was none, and among them a

powerful red-haired zambo, which freak of nature had obtained for him

the sobriquet of _colorado_--the red man.

This fellow enjoyed a wide reputation in the country for his exploits,

both in field and corral, and on this occasion proved himself deserving

of the fame which he had heretofore achieved. It was he who now first

led the charge. Seizing a lazo of long dimensions, contrary to usual

practice, he proceeded to coil it on his right hand, securing the end

upon his left. Then, cautiously approaching a formidable black bull,

which stood alone in the centre of the _majada_, he sent the whole lazo,

noose and all, uncoiling like a snake through the air until it reached

the animal’s head. Although the distance must have been thirty paces, we

had the satisfaction of seeing the noose settle round his neck as truly

as if placed there by the practised hand of a hangman. From this moment,

Colorado was unanimously proclaimed master of the lazo, an honor which

he enjoyed to the end of the performances, as all that remained in this

case to be accomplished by the others was merely to pull the lazo in

order to bring the bull up to the botalon or upright post, which served

the double purpose of subduing stake for the bulls, and training post

for the boys. To it one or more young bulls were usually brought at the

end of the day’s work, and the boys compelled to mount them in the

manner described in a previous chapter; the animals are then set loose

amidst the crowd of assembled quadrupeds, which are evidently amazed at

the singular spectacle.

[Illustration]

We witnessed several exhibitions of the kind in the _majada_, whenever

we were present at the branding of the cattle; but never do I recollect

any serious accident occurring to the little riders. Thus it is that the

Llaneros educate their boys from infancy to the severest exercises of

their profession, so that they in turn may teach the same to their own

children.

Not always, however, is the Llanero’s triumph over the brute creation

obtained so easily, for many are the instances in which the latter gain

the advantage in these hand-to-horn combats, and in such cases the evil

resulting is very great. Sometimes the men are dreadfully lacerated,

either by the horns or the sharp hoofs of their antagonists, frequently

losing their lives in consequence, from want of proper medical treatment

at the time the wounds are inflicted. The most common phase the disease

assumes is that of tetanus or lock-jaw, which sometimes ensues from only

a slight scratch on the tendinous part of the foot. From the scarcity of

surgeons in the country, and the lack of skill in dressing these wounds,

mortification, aneurisms, malignant abscesses, and a variety of other

complaints are amongst the evils resulting from this otherwise

entertaining sport. In spite of all our precautions, and the assistance

of the surgeon, Dr. Gallegos, we lost three of our best men, and several

others afterward died in consequence of injuries received during that

expedition.

Travels and adventures in South and Central America. First series Life in the Llanos of Venezuela · 第 14 / 29 章