EL FRIO.
On arriving at El Frio, we were agreeably surprised at finding more
spacious accommodations than we had anticipated. The house, although
thatched like all the rest with palm leaves, was spacious and well built
of _pajareque_; that is, the framework of the walls was of strong posts
of timber, well lathed and plastered over with soft mud mixed with
straw. In addition to a large _sala_ or reception room, it contained
three or four sleeping apartments; but these last were so full of bats,
that it was impossible to pass a comfortable night in them, especially
on account of the disagreeable odor proceeding from these disgusting
creatures, while the incessant bird-like chirping sound which they made
overhead, completely murdered our first night’s sleep. We tried in vain
to smoke them out by means of dried cow dung. They absented themselves
during a portion of the day, but were sure to return at dusk, bringing
with them an abundant supply of wild berries for their supper, some of
which they were constantly dropping in our hammocks, finally compelling
us to seek refuge in the open air of the corridors and courtyard.
Apart from the mansion stood a row of smaller structures containing the
kitchen and storerooms of the farm, which being useless to us, we
abandoned to the bats and turkey-buzzards. Our cooking, as usual, was
left to our skilful _chef_ Mónico and his satellites, who preferred the
_sans façon_ style of the camp to confining themselves in the narrow
range of a kitchen.
* * * * *
That which chiefly attracted my attention at this farm was the
substantial nature of the fence encompassing the buildings, capable of
resisting not only the sudden rush of a herd of cattle, for which
purpose it was intended, but also a heavy cannonade, in case of need. It
was constructed of enormous blocks of trees, almost impervious to steel
or fire, driven into the ground, each as close to the other as possible,
and neatly trimmed at top so as to present an even surface. I was unable
to comprehend by what means those monster rails could have been removed
from the forest. This, I afterwards ascertained, had been accomplished
during the inundation of the savannas, when they are easily transported
in _balsas_ or rafts made of lighter wood. The trees yielding this
everlasting timber are two distinct species of acacias, known in the
country under the euphonious names of _Angelino_ and _Acapro_, either of
which will turn the edge of the best tempered steel if great care is not
used. I was shown here two uprights to the principal gate of the
_majada_ or great enclosure for cattle, nearly a hundred years old,
still in perfect preservation, although standing in soil subject to
alternate inundations and parching heats.
The _majada_, also formed of strong posts, was sufficiently spacious to
contain three thousand animals, with compartments for the accommodation
of the herds during the various operations of cattle farms. Although
there was abundant vegetable material for the comfort or security of the
inmates, I observed here, as everywhere, a total want of shade trees
around the houses. The Llaneros, although strongly addicted to the
“sweets of savage life,” are decidedly opposed to trees in the immediate
neighborhood of their dwellings. Trees, say they, attract the
thunderbolt of heaven and the wild beasts of the field, being besides
the natural refuge of snakes and mosquitoes during the great floods.
This lack of shade was the more regretted by us as we were then in the
midst of the summer solstice, when the sun pours its vertical rays upon
the dry soil, while each day between the hours of ten and eleven, a
strong breeze arose, sweeping over the exposed plain, and bringing with
it showers of sand; this lodged in our mouths, eyes and ears, and
mingled with the food, thus rendering it unpalatable even to our
carnivorous appetites. And yet, but a short distance from the house
bloomed an inviting grove, two or three miles in circumference; this a
man of taste could have readily converted into a delightful abode,
especially as in the rainy season the inundation of the surrounding
savannas would permit the approach of vessels from the Orinoco, by which
the owner could supply himself with all the comforts of civilized life.
This charming spot was further embellished by a small lake, where we
daily watered our horses, though not without some risk to life and limb
on account of the _babas_ and caimans swarming in its depths. Even the
shallower portions were so filled with sting-rays, caribes, and other
aquatic vermin, as to render bathing in it extremely hazardous. Our
ablutions, therefore, were limited to the occasional scrubbing of our
dusty and heated bodies with wet towels. The _babas_, although still
more repulsive in appearance than their relative of the long snout--the
crocodile--are considered a _bonne bouche_, especially the tail, the
flesh of which is said to rival chicken in its flavor. From this
uninviting fount of the desert, necessity compelled us to replenish our
gourds each afternoon, that the particles of sand and clay with which it
was filled might have time to settle during the night.
The summer breezes, although disagreeable in many respects, are yet most
necessary, carrying off noxious exhalations arising from the marshy
deposits which remain in those low grounds long after the waters have
subsided; otherwise those regions would be uninhabitable. The Apure is
especially salubrious in the dry season, and were it not for their
imprudences, the inhabitants would enjoy perfect health during at least
seven months of the year. But these people, careless of consequences,
and trusting to their iron constitutions, are not deterred, while in the
excitement of a long chase, from plunging into one of these pestiferous
marshes after the object of their pursuit. The result is a severe
reaction of the system, followed by violent spasms, fevers, or that most
horrid of diseases, elephantiasis or _mal de San Lazaro_, so prevalent
in the hot regions of tropical America. Add to this recklessness the
great want of medical resources in the country, and the consequent
wretchedness and misery can be readily imagined. Nevertheless, the
inhabitants seem to care so little about these endemic vicissitudes,
that in time one accustoms himself also to view them in the same spirit
of fatalism which they attach to every event of their lives.
I was never weary of admiring the beauty of the sky and transparency of
the atmosphere at this season. Objects three or four miles distant
appeared as if actually only a few rods from the beholder, a
circumstance which often misled me when in my rambles after game I had
to traverse the plain on foot, occasioning frequent disappointments in
my reckonings.
The radiation of heat evolved from the earth at night, produced by the
perfect clearness of the sky, was so great at times as to produce a very
sensible degree of cold, which rendered the use of blankets quite
acceptable; hence the name of _El Frio_ given to this estate. The
evenings, especially, were so raw and chilly, that in order to keep
warm, we passed a great portion of the night in revelry and dancing by
moonlight, although not one crinoline graced our soirées. But we had
excellent dancers of the _Zapateo_, a sort of “breakdown,” in which most
of our men exhibited a flexibility of feet and ankles which would have
done credit to the most accomplished Ethiopian troop.
Our host _ño_ Juan Manuel, as the overseer was familiarly styled, had
engaged the services of a celebrated player on the _bandola_ from Banco
Largo, and there being no lack of _improvisatori_ among us, these
nightly revels were conducted with all the _éclat_ that circumstances
would permit. Among the bards who distinguished themselves most at such
times were the _Negro_ Quintana, an old Sergeant of the Guard, whose
constant attendance for many years on his beloved Chief and “Master,” as
he styled the General, had endeared him to the latter; and Sarmiento, as
the other was named, who acted in the capacity of _caporal_ to the
cattle farm of San Pablo. Both of these made themselves famous by the
wonderful facility with which they improvised on any given subject. They
occasionally varied the performances by singing to their guitars ballads
whose burden was invariably some adventure arising from the eventful
life in the pampas. Of these choice morceaux the most popular were
“Mambrun,” an imitation of the old French song, “_Malbrook s’en fut en
guerre_,” and “Marcelino.” The hero of this last was a renowned bandit,
who for a long time baffled all efforts to capture him, but who finally
received his deserts from the hands of a traitor, who joined his forays
for the purpose of betraying him to his enemies.
Marcelino was a common _peon_ in one of the cattle farms bordering the
river Matiyure, but being of a restless and daring disposition,
preferred the roving life of a bandit to the more sober occupations of
the farm. Finding himself pursued by the hand of justice, he was
compelled for a time to seek refuge among the Indians south of the great
river Meta, who are at this day sole tenants of those immeasurable
wilds. His superior acquirements and boldness soon gained him the
confidence and respect of the savages, who finally adopted him for their
leader, following him in his marauding expeditions against the
defenceless cattle farms this side of the Arauca. Emboldened by success,
they attacked the wealthy town of that name, whence Marcelino carried
off a beautiful woman, the wife of a respectable farmer of the place,
who employed every means in his power to recover her. All efforts,
however, were for a time fruitless, owing to the wild nature of the
country and the cunning of her captor; but he was finally taken in one
of his expeditions. The intention had been to send him to Achaguas, with
which object he was well bound and placed under a strong escort; but
being a great favorite with all classes of Llaneros, who admire valor in
every form, he was finally given in charge of the famous Manuel
Blanco--a rich land owner of the Apure--at the earnest solicitation of
the latter, who promised to see him safely delivered to the authorities.
On the way thither, however, Marcelino managed to give his bondsman the
slip, and escaped to his favorite haunts again. All further attempts to
retake him failing at that time, a bold sambo from the upper country
volunteered to penetrate into the unknown region, intending to decoy him
and his savage band to a certain cattle farm where a strong picket of
cavalry would lie in wait. Having represented to Marcelino that immense
wealth in money and jewels was possessed by the owners of the farm, the
bandit concluded to come out of his fastness and retrieve his former
fame by a bold dash at the cattle farm of Herradero. On arriving at the
place, where matters having been arranged as had been agreed upon
between Maldonado--the betrayer’s appropriate name--and the officers of
justice, Marcelino and his band were surprised. He endeavored to escape,
but Maldonado spurring his horse toward the unsuspecting bandit, pierced
him with his sword. Without delaying he then pushed on, followed by the
_hateros_, to the camp where the unfortunate lady was still a captive.
They found her surrounded by a train of red skin dames of honor, all of
whom were afterward distributed as servants among the families of their
conquerors.
Nearly all the Indians of that tribe were destroyed on this occasion,
only a few escaping to the Big Forest, where they bewailed among the
monkeys and jaguars of those solitudes the loss of their favorite
chieftain. The ballad which commemorates the event, commences:
“A Marcelino lo mataron
En el hato de Herradero,
Y los Indios lo lloraron
A su capitan vaquero.”
Marcelino the bold was slain,
Slain at the farm of Herradero;
And the Indians lament in vain
Their loved sportsman, chieftain and hero.
Maldonado, who at heart was a rogue of the same stamp as Marcelino,
having tasted of the independent roving life of the bandit, found it so
congenial that he concluded to follow the illustrious example of his
former leader and associate; but wanting in the principal traits which
had raised the latter to his exalted position, was speedily destroyed
and almost precisely in the same manner which he had devised for the
overthrow of the renowned Marcelino. Previous to this, however,
Maldonado, in imitation of his former chieftain, and availing himself of
the defenceless state of the town of Guasdualito, attempted to carry off
from thence la Villafañe, a lady celebrated for her beauty. With this
intent, he brought to her door a horse already saddled for her, and
commanded her to mount and follow him. This she indignantly refused to
do; but finding all entreaties and resistance of no avail, she seized
some poison from a drawer at hand, and with resolution worthy of a Roman
matron, placed it to her lips, exclaiming, as she did so, that she would
surely swallow it if he did not instantly quit her presence. The threat
proved successful; for the bandit, awed by her heroism, left her.
* * * * *
The business of the pampas required us to be up at the first peep of
dawn. A cup of coffee and milk, mixed with ground parched corn--which I
would recommend to all travellers on long journeys of this sort--served
us until breakfast time. I amused myself during the day sketching in
company with my friend, Mr. Thomas, while the men made their
preparations for a grand hunt among the cattle of the estate. The most
important of these arrangements was that of manufacturing from hides
sufficient lazos for the sport. There is a marked difference between the
skins of bullocks raised in the shady parts of the Llanos and those
roaming wild over the deserts of the Apure. Although the former are much
thicker, the lazos made from the hides of cattle constantly exposed to
the sun’s rays are infinitely stronger. The lazo is easily made. A fresh
hide, spread upon the ground with the hair downward, is neatly cut into
a long strap two inches wide. This is twisted into a tight thong and
stretched out to dry between two posts, after which it is well rubbed
with fat. When thoroughly dried, a loop is made at one end; through
this, when required for use, the thong is passed, forming the noose or
lazo proper, while the other end is firmly tied to the horse’s tail,
using its long hair for the purpose. In other parts of South America
they fasten the lazo to a ring in the saddle; but this arrangement,
besides causing too great strain upon the horse’s back, is fraught with
danger to the rider in case of a recoil from the thong if a break occur.
The thorough training which horses receive in the Llanos is invaluable
in such cases, as not only does the success of the chase depend on the
readiness with which he obeys his rider, but even after the game is
secured with the lazo, it is necessary that the horse should range
instantly on a line with the struggling victim; but unless this is
effected before the strain comes upon the lazo, the horse and his rider
are inevitably overthrown. The hunter, at the moment of using the lazo,
coils a portion of the thong, which he holds with his left hand, and
with the rest forms the running noose, which is repeatedly whirled
around his head to keep it open. When within reach of his mark, he aims
at the animal’s head and throws the noose in such a manner as to cause
a rapid uncoiling of the thong in his left hand. Some Llaneros are so
expert as to entangle at the same instant the feet and head of the
animal, on which he is quickly brought to the ground.
* * * * *
We were joined at El Frio by another party of cattle hunters, under the
leadership of an old acquaintance, Colonel Castejon, widely celebrated
in the Llanos for great bravery and skill in the pursuits of the
country. He came to help us in the hunt after wild cattle, and to help
himself to as many animals as he could drive home with his party. We
also had the honor of a visit from the Governor of the Province, Señor
Arciniega, a jovial, talkative, and well-informed functionary, and the
most accomplished marksman of the Apure. It was therefore proposed to
have a grand shooting match in the open field, and with this view we all
started one morning for a creek called Macanillal, about three miles
distant, intending to use the crocodiles, by far the most difficult
animal to shoot, as targets. On entering the woody banks of the creek,
we were agreeably surprised to discover on the soft mud evident proofs
that we had come in the right direction, not only for our anticipated
sport with the water monsters, but also that we were likely to have a
brush with even a more formidable antagonist--the jaguar. Footprints of
this splendid animal were so numerous, that we forgot for a time the
crocodiles and made diligent search for the nobler game. We had small
success, however, having no dogs with us to drive him from the jungle;
for, unless he has the advantage over his adversaries, the jaguar never
shows himself in the day-time.
As we came in sight of the water, I was astonished at seeing its whole
surface bubbling as if in a state of effervescence, and at finding also
on nearer inspection that this was occasioned by the blowing close to
the water’s surface of millions of _coporos_. Other varieties of fish
were also so abundant, that we shot many near the shore, among them a
very fine catfish.
The report of the guns brought to the surface numbers of crocodiles,
which we prepared to assail from the high bank of the creek. To our
honorable guest, the Governor, was conceded the privilege of shooting
the first, which he did with great accuracy, sending a ball directly
through one of the creature’s eyes. Still the shot did not kill him
instantly, as would have been the result with any other animal; and he
plunged through the creek for a time at a furious rate, lashing the
water with his powerful tail, and causing great commotion among the
finny multitude. The other crocodiles in lieu of being alarmed with the
uproar, were only rendered more inquisitive, dashing forward with
gleaming eyes and tusks, which so fascinated my friend the English
artist, as rather endangered his safety in his eagerness to get a
thorough view of the reptiles. Forgetting his proximity to the
precipice, he approached it so nearly as to miss his footing, and would
doubtless have rolled into one of the open jaws below him, but for the
prompt assistance of a companion, who caught him as he was in the act of
falling.
From the same place where the first shot was fired, we succeeded in
killing or wounding not less than twenty crocodiles; but the banks being
high and precipitous, we could not secure the carcases. One of these,
which lay stranded on a sand bank across the creek, being characterized
by a singular hump on his back, which added to his already monstrous
size, I felt a great desire to examine more closely. To accomplish this,
it was necessary to ford the creek lower down, where I was assured the
water was sufficiently low to allow of walking over. The undertaking was
not, however, without considerable risk from the numerous sting-rays and
caribes. But my interest in all pertaining to Nature’s works helped me
over to the other side, whither I was accompanied by Roseliano, a youth
attached to my family, famed as a dare-devil. With his assistance I
dragged the crocodile partly out of water, and was examining the load
which nature had placed upon his back, when Roseliano perceived a
movement of one of his eyes, the other having been shattered by the
bullet; we supposed he had been by this time quite dead. My young
companion, who had expressed his suspicions that the crocodile was only
feigning death, wishing to ascertain the truth, proposed stabbing him in
the armpit with his dagger. Before permitting this, I insisted upon
securing the jaws by means of a large stake which we sharpened at one
end and plunged into his nostrils, and I then leaned upon it with the
whole weight of my body. This precaution saved my companion, but came
very near proving fatal to myself, as the instant the crocodile felt the
cold steel between his ribs he raised his enormous head, lifting me at
least a foot from the ground; but was prevented from injuring me by the
stake which he caught between his powerful tusks, shattering it to
splinters, and then retreated to the middle of the creek. His triumph
was, however, of short duration; for, the blood oozing in torrents from
his wounds, he quickly fell a prey to thousands of hungry caribes.
Sir Robert Schombourgh relates an incident which occurred during his
ascent of the river Berbice, and which further demonstrates the tenacity
of life in the cayman. “One was fired at, floating, and the ball took
off the end of the snout; it received another immediately afterward in
the hinder part of the skull which appeared to have taken effect; still,
the Indians were not sparing in their blows, and when there was not much
likelihood of its possessing a spark of life, it was deposited on the
bow of one of the corials. While the corial was drawn across the rapids,
two of the Arawaaks got courage and took it up in order to lay it in a
more convenient place; they had just effected this, when at one bound it
jumped out into the river and disappeared. The Indians looked quite
stupefied, and never afterward could be persuaded to touch a cayman.”
The creek of Macanillal is also famous for its many water-dogs, or
_perros de agua_ (Myopotamus coypos) and nutrias. The latter is a large
species of otter with a fine glossy fur. The former resembles a beaver
very closely, but has a round tail similar to that of the opossum. Both
animals live in the water, coming out occasionally to sun themselves on
the sand banks. In a hut near the scene of our last crocodile adventure
I saw a skin of the water-dog which measured five feet in length,
exclusive of the tail; but although I often made diligent search for
this singular amphibious animal, I never had an opportunity of making
his acquaintance. Like the otter he is extremely shy, and only the
practised eye of an Indian can trace him near the surface of the water
when he rises to breathe.