SAVANNAS OF APURE.
After a thorough examination of animals and baggage, to see that all was
as it ought to be, we left the uninteresting village of Apurito for our
cattle-estate of San Pablo de Apure, a few miles further south. As we
passed the last house fronting the river, Mr. Thomas descried a
jaguar-skin, which the owner of the hut had spread to dry upon the
fence. Wishing to examine it more closely, he spurred his mule ahead and
was in the act of seizing the skin, when the animal, whose view of it
had until then been obstructed by the other beasts, coming unexpectedly
into close proximity with the--to him--fearful object, drew back in
terror, snorting, kicking, and plunging so violently as to capsize the
unlucky artist upon the sandy beach. The abhorrence with which mules
regard the South American tiger, is one of the most curious phenomena of
animal instinct with which I am acquainted; not only do they manifest it
at sight of the creature, but also by their scent, while the animal is
still a long distance off, and yet, in most cases, they have never seen
a tiger, as was the case in the present instance, this mule having been
reared in the _potreros_ of San Pablo de Paya, where tigers are rarely,
if ever, met with.
After a ride of a few hours through alternate glades of gigantic mimosas
and verdant savannas, we reached San Pablo before night had cast her
gloom over those solemn wilds. The house was neat and well located,
commanding an extended view of the country and innumerable herds of
cattle grazing in the distance. There were, besides, a large _caney_ or
barracoon for the accommodation of the men and their chattels, and a
detached hut in which the culinary functions of the establishment were
to be performed.
The appellation of San Pablo, conferred on this farm also--although the
owner possessed already another of the same name--made me suspect that
snakes were not uncommon in that country, the reality of which fact I
ascertained the first time that I strolled any considerable distance
from the house. In a country where saints are supposed to exert an
unbounded influence over all human affairs, it is not unusual to give to
houses and localities, threatened with some special calamity, the name
of the saint who is considered the patron or defender from that
particular evil: thus places which are frequently visited by
thunderstorms, are called after Santa Barbara; those infested with
snakes, receive the name of San Pablo, &c., &c.
Although this farm formed part of the demesne we came to inspect, we did
not remain there longer than was absolutely necessary to investigate
into its general condition.
When the order was given to remove to El Frio--another farm further
westward--we gladly saddled horses and started off at a brisk pace over
those fresh and beautiful prairies which, with their perpetual grassy
carpet, caused us to feel as if we were coming into a land of promise
and contentment, instead of one of toil and hardship. Indeed, every
thing denoted that we were now entering on far different scenes from
those we had left across the river. It seemed a terrestrial paradise,
where a beneficent Providence had congregated every animal most needed
by man. Now it was the slender forms of deer in herds bounding swiftly
over the greensward; now the gristly wild hogs and capyvaras making
hastily for the nearest swamp to avoid the eager chase of our men.
Occasionally might be seen a redoubtable wild bull, retiring sulkily and
slowly at the head of his shaggy troop, as if wishing to dispute our
right to enter his domain. Vegetation, however, seemed to flourish here
less than in other places we had visited, as, excepting a few scattered
palms of a new variety, and some straggling Matas--which, from the
mirage continually before us, appeared like fairy groves set in clearest
water--nothing but the fine and level lawn met the eye for many miles.
Unlike the higher plains, where only a coarse herbage predominates, the
savannas of Apure are characterized by a luxuriant growth of various
grasses, which, like those of the Portuguesa, preserve a uniform verdure
throughout the year. These grasses--some of which are as soft and
pliable as silk--are most important in the economy of cattle-breeding in
the savannas watered by the Apure and its tributaries. The prodigious
increase of animals in these plains is mainly owing to the superiority
of the pastures over those of the upper regions of the Llanos, from
whence the farmer is compelled to migrate with his stock every summer.
I noticed in Apure three varieties of grass, which in richness of flavor
and nutritious qualities can hardly be surpassed by any other fodder
plants of the temperate zones. In the early part of the rainy season,
the granadilla--a grass reaching to about four feet in height, with
tender succulent blades and panicles of seed not unlike some varieties
of broomcorn--starts with the earliest showers of spring. It grows with
great rapidity, and is greedily sought by all ruminants; but being an
annual, soon disappears, leaving no vestige of its existence. In the
alluvial bottomlands subject to the periodical inundation, two other
grasses, no less esteemed for their nutriment, have an uninterrupted
growth and luxuriance which the hottest season cannot blast; these are
the _carretera_, named from the beautiful prairie-goose that feeds on
it, and the _lambedora_, so termed on account of its softness, animals
feeding on it appearing to lick rather than masticate it. Cattle and
horses thrive on it very perceptibly, and even calves only a fortnight
old, may be left to shift for themselves amidst those nutritious
pastures.
_Esteros_ is the name by which these perennial meadows are there
designated. They have moreover the
[Illustration: GARZERO.]
advantage of retaining water enough throughout the year to make them the
resort of all kinds of quadrupeds and of every fowl whom “Nature has
taught to dip the wing in water,” the former to allay their thirst and
feast on the fine grass, and the latter for the purpose of raising their
young in the vicinity of ponds well stocked with fish of all varieties.
No description can convey a just idea of the appearance presented by
these lagoons, crowded with almost every variety of animal. The birds in
particular--most of which belong to the extensive family of cranes--seem
to have migrated there from all quarters of the globe. These
fluttering communities of aquatic birds are known in the country
under the appropriate name of _garzeros_, from the many
_garzas_--herons--predominating in them. The immense number of these may
be conceived from the fact that their colonies sometimes embrace
several miles in extent. I noticed there also various kinds of
cranes--_garzones_--one of them, called the soldier, from its erect
bearing and martial air--is over five feet in height, with a bill fully
a foot long. The _garzas_ were of various sizes and colors, some
snow-white, some a delicate blue, others gray or pink, and many of a
brilliant scarlet. Although cranes and herons are species very nearly
allied, yet they verify the old saying, “birds of a feather flock
together,” for each keeps quite distinct from the other. They generally
select the spreading top of a low tree--_caujaro_--growing in vast
quantities near the water, in which to build their nests; these are of
dry sticks very ingeniously interwoven among the branches. Well-beaten
tracks are made under the bushes by the tramp of many suspicious
characters of the feline tribe, who make these feathered colonies their
favorite resort, where they improve every opportunity of appropriating
any young birds that may chance to fall from the nests.
As we rode past several ponds, covered with a kind of water-lily, whose
flowers are of a dark purple color, myriads of ducks, of the small
species called _güiriries_, rose in the air, actually for the moment
obscuring the sun. They uttered a shrill note, clearly repeating the
sound from which they are named, so that the hunter easily discovers
their whereabout. There were, besides, great numbers of a larger species
of duck--the _pato real_, or royal duck--so named, I presume, from a
graceful tuft of black feathers with which it is crowned. Here and there
a brace of _carreteros_ soared over head, uttering their peculiar
rolling notes; the hoarse quacking of the male bird, followed by the
shrill cries of the female, make perfect the before-mentioned
resemblance to the rumbling of cartwheels.
During the moulting season, the people in the neighborhood of these
lagoons resort to them from time to time, and drive without difficulty
towards the farm-house as many of these ducks as they may desire. I was
assured by several reliable individuals that not far from San Pablo
there is a lagoon on the borders of which a regiment of cavalry once
encamped, and lived during a fortnight exclusively on these birds,
without any apparent diminution of their numbers.
This prodigious exuberance of animal life has justly entitled the Apure
to the reputation of being a land of plenty; but, alas, it is also a
land of death! as, from the bottom of these extensive marshes miasmas of
a pestilential nature are continually arising, which, at certain seasons
of the year, render this fine country almost uninhabitable for man. They
are also the abode of those enormous water-snakes or anacondas, known in
the country under the name of _culebras de agua_, in contradistinction
to the boa constrictor or _traga-venado_, so termed on account of the
ease with which it gorges itself with a whole deer at once. Both of
these snakes are also remarkable for the strength which enables them to
crush their victims in the coils of their huge muscular bodies; but the
anaconda is by far the more voracious and bold of the two, attacking not
only inferior animals, such as deer, capyvaras, and young calves, but
even that pride of the herd, the _padrote_, cannot always escape the
deadly embrace. Woe to the unsuspecting colt or heifer, who, panting
with thirst and heat, should incautiously plunge into one of these
modern Stygian lakes, for the coil of the monster will in an instant be
around it, followed by a fearful cracking of its bones. This
accomplished, the snake proceeds to cover the whole mangled body with a
slimy secretion from his mouth which assists him in the process of
deglutition. Should it be a stag--the head of which presents the
formidable obstacle of its huge antlers--the snake commences by
swallowing first the hind quarters, trusting to time and the natural
process of decay for the head to drop off. In this plight the anaconda
is often found, looking like an immense log, stretched out in the soft
mud of lagoons, whence they are then easily dragged by means of a lazo,
tied to the tail of a horse. On examining the mouth of one of these
snakes, it will be found that the jaws are furnished with a row of sharp
and crooked teeth, bent inward like tenter hooks; with these he seizes
his prey, and holds it securely until the victim, unable to struggle
longer, drops exhausted. What appears most extraordinary in these
unequal contests, is the tenacity with which the snake adheres to the
soft mud of the lagoon, there being neither rock nor stump to which he
can secure himself. Nor will the efforts of a large bull, no matter how
powerful, be sufficient to drag the snake one inch out of his element,
unless he is first cut asunder. In darting upon a quadruped, the
anaconda invariably aims at its snout, the animal seldom escaping when
once the terrible fangs have been buried in its flesh. It is not an
unusual thing, however, for a bull to cut a snake asunder in his violent
struggles; then the shaggy victor may be seen proudly marching at the
head of his troop with this unsightly trophy hanging from his nose. The
toughness of the anaconda’s skin makes it eagerly sought after by the
inhabitants for straps and various other objects susceptible of injury
from friction, as they outwear those made from any other material. The
fat is also much esteemed for burning, and as a lubricator for the bones
and tendons of persons afflicted with rheumatism, or rigidity of limb.
This oil is perfectly clear and transparent, without any disagreeable
odor, and is readily absorbed into the system by simply rubbing it on
the skin.
Shortly after leaving San Pablo, we had a spirited chase after a herd
of wild pigs. There were upwards of twenty browsing on the borders of a
pond, and in an instant the whole plain--in such repose a few moments
before--resounded with the cries and clatter of our horsemen in eager
pursuit of this delicious game of the Llanos. Many of the men being
provided with lances, they had no difficulty in despatching most of
those whose fate threw them in the way of the remorseless cavaliers. But
an old _berraco_ or boar, which seemed to be the sultan of the grisly
community, harassed by the combined attacks of several horsemen,
suddenly whirled round and made a gallant stand, determined, as it
appeared, not to give up without a fierce resistance. At first it was
supposed that three or four men would be sufficient to bring him down,
and that number were accordingly sent after him; but finding the
engagement protracted, several others, including myself, went to their
assistance. On reaching the spot a fearful spectacle was presented to
us. The infuriated animal, his eyes shooting fire, and fiercely grinding
his tusks, stood at bay a short distance from his aggressors, his mouth
covered with a bloody froth, while one of the men lay bleeding profusely
from a wound on the thigh inflicted by the sharp tusks of the boar. We
learned that Cipriano, the wounded hunter’s name, perceiving that the
lances of his companions only succeeded in irritating the boar, very
foolishly leaped from his saddle, and drawing his sword, deliberately
attacked him without even taking the precaution of covering his
movements with the sheepskin from his saddle, as is practised in
contests with wild bulls. The man boasted with reason of being the most
skilful matador in all the Apure; but in this case he did not reckon on
the tough hide of his opponent; for, at the first rush of the boar upon
him, and in spite of the steadiness with which he aimed the stroke, the
well-tempered steel bent like a reed the moment it encountered the
shoulder of the boar, leaving Cipriano completely at the mercy of the
enraged brute. The consequence, as I have already stated, was a severe
gash, almost laying bare the femoral bone of the unfortunate matador.
The tusks of the wild boar, especially those of the lower jaw, are so
long and sharp, that the animal makes use of them as a bull does of his
horns. The upper ones rest directly upon the lower, and his constant
grinding of them, especially when he is enraged, soon wears the points
into a broad and sharp edge. United, these tusks form a perfect circle
five or six inches in diameter. The services of our surgeon, Dr.
Gallegos, were immediately called into requisition, who dressed the
wound, while the companions of the suffering hunter endeavored to avenge
him. They rained a shower of lances upon the body of the enraged beast,
but, apparently, with no better effect; for, with one powerful stroke of
his tusks, he broke in two the shaft of some and carried away the head
of others. Doubtless we should have succeeded in finishing him after a
time; but the helpless condition of our companion requiring especial
care, we placed him on his saddle, for want of better conveyance, and,
leaving the boar conqueror, proceeded on our journey.
Having killed more animals than we could conveniently carry, we selected
two fat sows for our breakfast, and left the remainder to the flock of
turkey-buzzards which, like a troop of hungry scavengers, followed our
line of march across the prairies.
I may observe here that the wild boar of the Llanos is the common hog
run wild in consequence of the little or no care bestowed upon their
breeding in the cattle-farms, and as they find in these swamps all the
elements they require for their development, viz., roots of various
kinds, sweet herbs, eels, snakes, and mire _ad libitum_, their
propagation is greatly increased. Thus the number of pigs in these
savannas is almost incredible--in the lands of El Frio alone being
estimated at forty thousand--and a just idea may be formed of their
ravages from the fact that, for miles around, those fine prairies have
been completely ploughed up by them, rendering the ground exceedingly
dangerous for horses, and almost useless for cattle-breeding, by
destroying the fine pastures which are invariably replaced by a crop of
worthless weeds.
Wild hogs, nevertheless, sometimes render good service by destroying the
snakes--for which they seem to have a particular penchant--especially
that little scourge of the savannas of Apure, the dreaded _matacaballo_.
The tails of these hogs being especially long, and, as usual, twisted,
they swing them round continually when running--a peculiarity which did
not escape a benighted son of Africa, who was being trained at a
cattle-farm to the business of the Llanos, and which occasioned quite a
ludicrous scene at one of these hunts. He had become already expert in
the use of the lazo, and was one day taken to the savanna by the
overseer for the purpose of procuring an ox for slaughter, when they
fell in with a fine hog, which at once changed their plans, and they
immediately gave him chase. None of the men had lazos, except the negro,
and he was therefore commanded to follow and secure the game; but
although he rode a very swift horse, and was often within range of the
lazo, he was observed each time to slacken his pace without any apparent
cause. “Now then, ... son of ... thy mother,” the Llanero vociferated,
“let go the lazo, or we will roast thee alive in his stead,” shouting at
him also many other no less characteristic expressions. But Sambo,
waving the lazo over his head in order to keep the noose open, would
again stop short of his mark, until the pig, who probably knew by this
time that he was wanted, straining every nerve to reach a swamp hard by,
succeeded at last in gaining a clump of wild plantains that bordered the
_estero_. Here the major-domo, losing his small remnant of patience,
quickly rode up to him, and discharging sundry lashes with his
_chaparro_ upon the sooty skin of his apprentice, asked him, in a
thundering voice: “How now, _my master_, why did ye let the fellow go
without a single effort on thy part to secure him? Have not I taught
thee well enough how to handle a lazo, thou sooty imp?” “Oh! yessa,
massa,” quoth the darkey; “but, look yer, massa, when me wisher to lazo
pig, him wisher to lazo me neither;” imitating, at the same time, with
his arm the swinging of the pig’s tail.
Very beautiful was the appearance of the many herds, each headed by its
_padrote_, on all sides dispersing at our approach. The bulls are
generally of a grave and quiet disposition when collected in herds, and
rather avoid the approach of man unless provoked to self-defence, when
they become very ferocious. Each troop is under the control of the most
powerful bull in the drove, a position which is only attained by dint of
strength and courage; as not only has he to defend his troop from the
attacks of the common enemy, but to maintain his supremacy against rival
enamorados. Thus the _padrote_, or big father, as he is appropriately
styled, can show many scars upon his tough hide, received in these
fierce combats. If a lion or jaguar approach during the night, the
_padrote_ immediately takes all his measures for the defence of his
post. His first care is to compel the herd into a compact mass, and then
advances to engage the enemy in single combat, from which he rarely
fails to come off victorious. In the mean time the herd, within the
limited space into which they have been congregated, with heads lowered
towards the enemy, prepare to repulse the intruder and defend their
young by a formidable array of horns.
Man is the only antagonist whose superiority the _padrote_ will
acknowledge; but even this is not without an obstinate resistance
whenever he has an opportunity. Nor will he retire in a hurry from his
pursuers, but facing about from time to time, often succeeds in
thwarting their intentions and securing an honorable retreat.
When the sun is high in the meridian, troops of these noble animals may
be seen slowly advancing towards the nearest _mata_, seeking to avoid
the excessive heat of the day and to enjoy their siesta in cool
retirement. Here they amuse themselves sometimes in watching over their
harems, sometimes in making their toilet, which is rubbing the point of
their horns against the hard trunk of a palm tree, or any other
convenient object, until they become sharp as awls. Woe! then, to the
imprudent traveller who, overpowered by the heat, seeks refuge in one of
those groves, thus intruding upon the sanctuary of his bullship’s
seraglio. Should he succeed in escaping safe and sound, his horse is
certain of being severely chastised for his master’s indiscretion.
An adventurous Briton, who once penetrated into one of those haunts
sacred to Taurus, came very near losing his life in consequence. He
fortunately escaped with only a few scratches and contusions; but his
clothes were torn from his body by the horns and hoofs of the bull. It
chanced in this wise: The intensity of the sun’s rays had compelled the
traveller and his companion--a shrewd old Llanero, who acted as
guide--to seek shelter under a solitary grove. On a closer acquaintance
they judged it to be the retreat of a wild bull, from the deep scars
observable on the bark of the trees, evidently caused by some animal’s
horns. They were not mistaken, for they soon discovered at a short
distance, quietly grazing, the probable owner of the rural retreat.
Knowing from experience that this would be a very unsafe spot for their
siesta, the Llanero advised that they should move off at once, rather
than be ejected thence, as would surely be the case if they remained
much longer. But John Bull, with characteristic pride, and trusting
entirely to his fine brace of pistols, laughed at the idea of giving up
his comfortable quarters, without at least a struggle for their
possession. Ordering the man to sling his hammock, he carefully examined
his pistols, after which he retired to his aërial couch. The Llanero
shook his head and very wisely omitted unsaddling the horses, contenting
himself with merely unfastening the straps. Presently the bull began to
advance in the direction of the _mata_, which the phlegmatic Englishman
no sooner perceived, than quitting his hammock, he seized his pistols
and went to the encounter. The Llanero crossed himself, and taking the
horses aside, proceeded to secure the saddles and to tie the lazo to the
tail of his own steed. In the mean time the bull continued leisurely
advancing, apparently without much noticing his uninvited guests;
occasionally, however, uttering deep bellowings expressive of his
displeasure. Bang! bang! went the two pistols; but before the smoke had
cleared, the Llanero beheld his companion stretched upon the ground and
fiercely trampled under the feet of the infuriated animal. Swift as
thought, the Llanero sprang into the saddle, and spreading his lazo,
whirled it two or three times above his head; then let it fall around
the horns of the bull at the very instant he was about to transfix the
prostrate traveller. Thus providentially prevented from doing further
injury, he was easily hamstrung and finally despatched by the captors.
That the Englishman escaped being instantly killed, can only be
accounted for by the fact that a bull often misses his aim from the very
fury of his attack.