frontier, “match shooting” (it was not called target shooting, then)
was always confined to a certain distance, sixty yards off-hand or one
hundred yards with a rest. The marksman was permitted to take his own
choice of modes. “Shooting matches” were very common in those earlier
times, usually for beef. A fat ox was put up to be shot for at so much
per shot, something on the plan of the modern raffle. When the amount
asked for the animal had been made up, the shooting commenced. The best
shot took first choice, which was one of the hind quarters of the ox,
the second best took second choice, which was the other hind quarter;
the third best took third choice, which was one of the fore quarters,
and so on to the fifth choice, which consisted of the hide and tallow.
Happy occasions, indeed, were those old “shooting matches,” and splendid,
indeed, was some of the shooting. A regular attendance upon numerous
target matches of more modern times, with all the modern appliances,
in the hands of marksmen with national reputations, has never shown us
better shooting at sixty yards, off-hand, or one hundred yards with a
rest.
_General Directions._—Mr. Edward C. Barber, author of the “Crack Shot,”
says the greatest care and nicety is required in loading any kind of
rifle, if we desire to have it shoot with accuracy. A few grains too
much or too little powder will alter the range of the bullet, and the
bullet itself, if not placed in the barrel exactly right, in the case of
the muzzle-loader, will come out at an irregular angle, and, instead
of going straight to the mark, will be turned sideways. This trouble is
avoided by the use of a “starter,” to be had at any gun store.
Supposing that a young man has just possessed himself of a rifle, but
who knows nothing of its use save such information as he has been able
to gather from mere theorists. He makes choice of a suitable place for
taking his first practical lesson, where there is no danger of inflicting
harm upon disinterested persons. He puts up his target and steps off
fifty yards, or it might be better to measure it more accurately than by
stepping.
Suppose the gun to be a first-class modern muzzle-loader. The target
is now arranged; proceed to load. Grasp the barrel of the gun near the
muzzle; turn it round so that the lock is outward, then pour from the
flask the proper charge of powder, using the charger which the gunmaker
has furnished. Be sure that the charger is exactly full—no more nor less.
Pour the powder gently down the barrel, holding the latter upright so
that none of the powder will lodge in the grooves or rifles. Get ready a
“patch,” which has been previously prepared by oiling on one side a piece
of fine but substantial linen with sperm oil such as is used for sewing
machines, and cutting out with a “patch-cutter,” always to be had with
a new gun. Place this patch over the muzzle, oiled side downward, and
then set the bullet perfectly straight and true in the muzzle, and with
the “starter” press it downward two or three inches, using the ramrod to
force it home. Avoid the common error of “ramming” home the bullet, for
two reasons: firstly, because the bullet being jammed on the powder meals
and grinds it, thereby depriving it of a portion of its strength, and,
secondly, because injury is done to the face of the ball, which works
against its taking a perfectly true and accurate flight. The old plan of
making the ramrod rebound to prove that the ball was home, as mentioned
in another chapter, was wrong. Nothing more than a moderate pressure is
necessary, and if you are not willing to trust to this a mark on your
ramrod, to come exactly to the muzzle when the ball is entirely down,
will always tell the tale. Now place a cap on the tube or nipple, which
is, doubtless, full of powder, and the “shootist” is ready for operations.
There are two modes of shooting with a rifle: off-hand, and with a rest,
as has already been intimated. Choose the mode that suits best, and begin
practice.
_Off-hand Shooting._—Barber says the position which should be chosen for
off-hand shooting is one that admits of a good deal of discussion. There
is great difference of opinion on the subject, some good shots contending
that they never could see any difference in their shooting, whether they
were in one position or the other; while others maintain that it is
absolutely necessary to good shooting that certain fixed rules should
be adhered to. There are three recognized methods of firing, viz., the
British or Hythe position, the Swiss position and the American position.
In the first named, the rifleman stands perfectly erect, head slightly
bent forward, feet at right angles to each other, the left advanced about
twelve inches, the right arm raised well up, the left hand advanced so
as to take a firm yet easy grip of the rifle, the butt of which is to be
pressed firmly against the right shoulder, the right hand grasping firmly
the small of the stock. Captain Heaton describes the second method, or
Swiss position, by stating that no particular manner of placing the feet
is required. The whole body is kept perfectly rigid, the chest expanded
as much as possible, against which the left elbow is allowed to rest,
the rifle being held with the left hand as near the trigger guard as it
can be placed. The Swiss rifles have a kind of handle provided for this
purpose. The upper part of the body is thrown back. Before firing the
Swiss marksman invariably takes a long, deep inspiration, which he holds
until the bullet has left his rifle, when he breaks the suspension with
a loud grunt of satisfaction if the shot happens to please him. In the
American position, to draw again from Barber, the legs are kept wide
apart, body slightly bent backward, the left shoulder a little back; with
the left hand he grasps the rifle well out, bringing the arm nearly under
the barrel, so as to form a support; the right arm is thrown out square,
similar to the style adopted in the English position. The butt of the
rifle is not pressed against the shoulder, but in the hollow between the
biceps muscle and the shoulder. Cleveland prefers this method to that
of the English, but Barber does not, as he considers it more constrained
than the other.
But, of course, great men must differ; the world could not get along all
right were it otherwise. The matter of method had best be left to stand
as a matter of taste, or of feeling as to convenience to the marksman, as
very good shooting has been done through all of them.
Having settled this point, bring the rifle up carefully into position,
the eye being steadily fixed upon the object to be fired at; slowly raise
the barrel until the sights and the object are in direct line, and the
instant that this condition is fully apparent press upon the trigger,
still keeping the eye steadily on the mark.
It is always best to hold the breath at the instant of firing; and in
pressing the trigger the forearm alone should act, the arm and wrist
being stationary. No other movement of the body or any member thereof
should take place between the time of securing aim and discharging the
gun. The aim should be quickly taken—a long dwell, with wabblings on
and wabblings off the mark is apt to do more harm than good. On this
point Frank Forrester says: “Though it is necessary to get a sure aim
before firing, it is not necessary to dwell on it before doing so. Every
second between having taken true sight and the giving fire is a second
lost, or worse than lost; for the longer the rifle is held to the face,
the greater the tension of the muscles and nerves, and the likelier are
both to shake and give way. The first true sight is always, with all
fire-arms, the best sight, and a quick shot has as much or more advantage
over a slow shot, with the rifle as with any other weapon.” Barber says
he considers “the _pull_ of the trigger a very important consideration;
it should not be too slight, so as to go off almost involuntarily, nor so
hard as to require force, but so that, by a gentle pressure, commenced
at the moment of taking aim, the slightest extra squeeze will cause the
hammer to fall at the very instant when the aim is perfected.”
_Rest Shooting._—If the old-fashioned backwoods hunters shot with a rest
at all that rest had nothing complicated about it, being usually only the
side of a tree. The rifle was brought up against the side of a tree and
pressed there with the left hand, which held it pretty much after the
plan employed in the American method of off-hand shooting. If the object
to be fired at was occupying an elevated position, as a squirrel among
the branches of a neighboring tree, this kind of rest was a very easy and
good one, but it was not so easy where a horizontal shot had to be made.
In match-shooting with a rest the most common plan was to lie upon the
ground, face downward, somewhat in the natural position of a swimmer, and
put the gun out in front, its muzzle resting upon a small log or block of
wood. These plans are still more or less in vogue in all regions where
the old-style Kentucky rifle remains in common use.
The most popular modern rest, according to Barber, is to have a bench
made about three and a half feet long and ten inches wide, with four
stout legs standing out at considerable angle. The height should be about
level with the breast when sitting down. At one end place a stout piece
of wood about five or six inches high, crosswise, with notches cut in it
to lay the barrel in. It should be well covered with cloth or some other
soft material, and should be securely fastened to the bench. The end of
the bench nearest the shooter may be hollowed out a little for the breast
to fit in. This is a rest for target shooting—it would not be well suited
for the hunter to carry around in the woods with him, of course.
The same authority tells how to make a cheaper rest, by tying three
moderately stout sticks together near the top, and then throwing out the
other ends upon the ground after the manner of the feet of a tripod.
Place your coat in the crotch formed at the top to rest your rifle
upon—that is all there is of it.
Having decided upon the kind of rest to be used, the question of
rest-shooting is settled, as everything else is performed the same as in
shooting off-hand. Most modern sportsmen object to rest-shooting to such
an extent that no artificial rest is admitted at their target matches.
Their reasons for such objections are that a rest is an inconvenient
arrangement that could not be employed either in war or field-sports,
and hence, people ought to learn to shoot well without it. And they do,
but in many instances they shoot with a rest at last, making one of
themselves by lying upon the ground and shooting off the knee or some
other part of the person, or by setting the elbows upon the ground so
as to brace with the gun as permanently as any artificial rest could
possible be. The methods employed by the noted marksmen, Messrs. Fulton
and Bodine, were of this character.
CHAPTER XXXVII.
ON USING THE SHOT-GUN.
_Born Shooters._—Every man who uses a gun at all will feel an ambition
to use it skillfully, and when he finds himself falling short of his
aspirations he will apply to his gunsmith for instructions, for the
gunsmith is expected to set the owner all right as well as his gun. There
will be some difference in results to the gunsmith, however, for when
the gun gets out of fix, and the gunsmith repairs the imperfections, the
owner expects to pay for services rendered, but not so with reference to
himself. He will expect the gunsmith to spend an hour or so in telling
him how to shoot, but it will not occur to him that time is worth the
same in dollars and cents spend it as we may, hence he will never think
of tendering the slightest remuneration for the time consumed in giving
him instructions. We have often thought that a chapter in some book
telling about all there is to tell the novice on the subject of shooting
would be worth a great deal to the gunsmith, as he could turn it over to
his inquiring customers and go on about his work, leaving them to sift
out from the “black and white” the information desired, taking their
own time for it, and digesting everything in accordance with their own
notions. And right here, it may be remarked, is a proper place to put in
just such a chapter, which is done without further preface.
Some popular writer has said that, like the poet, the first-class shot
with a gun, or the “dead shot,” as he is often called, must be born
such—he cannot be made. Good shooting is a fine art, and in none of the
fine arts can perfection be acquired where there does not exist a natural
talent, or natural capacity, if the term be better. Any man with fair
calculation and a reasonably good mechanical eye may, by practice, become
a very passable shot, but without this peculiar natural requirement,
which no one can clearly explain, it will be impossible for him to ever
excel as an expert marksman.
It is not often that a real born shot is met with—they are about as
scarce as true poets and true painters. When one does meet with him one
soon knows him, if there is any shooting going on. Perhaps he is at his
first shooting match. He does not know himself as a “shootist,” possibly.
Curiosity alone, it may be, prompts him to try a shot, so he takes the
gun, and wholly without study or previous experience, blazes away, and,
to the astonishment of all present, shoots almost to perfection. It is
in him as a gift. Some peculiar balance in his organization is the cause
of it, and it is folly to be envious even in the least degree. Nor is it
worth while to despair because such a peculiar balance of organization
did not happen to fall to “our” lot. If there be a wish to succeed, a
little patient study, industry and practice may soon bring the “shootist”
up to the average at least, and that will leave no reasonable cause for
complaint.
_How to Shoot._—This part of the subject need not be brought down to the
simple operation of merely discharging a gun, for it is supposed that
every person with common sense, and old enough to handle a gun would know
how to discharge it when loaded. What is meant, then, by “how to shoot,”
is how to shoot well, and to enable any one to do this, one of the
most important requisites lies in taking aim on the object at which is
expected to be shot. Most young gunners close one eye in this operation,
which, according to the best authorities, is entirely wrong. A man will
learn to take correct aim with a shot-gun much sooner by keeping both
eyes naturally open than he will by holding one closed. Once got in the
habit of shooting with a closed eye, it will be found a most difficult
habit to break up—the “hiding eye” will “close up” just as the finger is
being pressed upon the trigger. And with that “closing up” is very apt to
come a deviation of the gun from the line of correct aim.
Some years ago Mr. Dougall, in his “Shooting Simplified,” advanced many
strong arguments in favor of shooting with both eyes open, basing them
upon correct science. He says the person who takes aim with one eye
closed has robbed himself of half his vision. The single open eye cannot
see the whole of the object at which it looks, but only a part, or one
side of it. Then, it requires the use of both eyes to see and calculate
distance correctly. One eye may outline a thing, but it calls for the
employment of two eyes to give it a perfect perspective.
When an object is hastily caught within the range of both eyes, the sense
of vision is instantly assured as to position of the object, its distance
from the gun, and, if moving, the rate of speed at which it is going. By
a mental operation the brain is promptly impressed with all this, giving
confidence and, consequently, calmness. Here the main point favoring
success has been attained—calmness and a strong belief that the shot is
going to succeed. The moment when this is felt is the one in which to
press upon the trigger. It means that a correct sight is secured, whether
there be time to think about it or not, and hence an instantaneous
discharge of the gun is almost sure to bring down the game.
Since beginning to write this book one of the authors interviewed a
wonderfully successful sportsman with reference to his mode of taking aim
at birds on the wing. “Why, bless your soul!” said he, “I never take aim
at all. I throw my gun in range of the bird, look at the bird with both
eyes open, and the moment a feeling comes over me that I shall kill the
bird if I shoot, I pull the trigger, and it’s about always my bird.” So
it is. But this expert is evidently mistaken with reference to taking
aim: he takes aim mechanically. He thinks only about killing the bird,
without thinking about taking aim, and in response to the securing of
a perfect aim comes the feeling, unexplained in his thoughts, that if
he shoots he shall kill the bird. It is simply a powerful concentration
of thought, which is always of paramount importance in shooting. A mind
scattering over all creation at the time of shooting is no more to be
depended upon for good results than a gun scattering to all sides of a
ten-acre field. There must be concentration in both cases. A man cannot
buy goods, grow crops, swap horses, make poetry, edit a newspaper and
kill birds on the wing with unvarying success all at the same instant.
_Brewster on the Use of Two Eyes._—As the novice who has not devoted much
thought to the subject of shooting, will be apt to feel some surprise
at the idea of the use of both eyes being recommended in taking aim,
the liberty will be assumed of quoting a paragraph from the writings of
Sir David Brewster, offering it as evidence in substantiation of the
foregoing position. In his able work on the Stereoscope he says: “When
we look with both eyes open at a sphere, or any other solid object, we
see it by uniting into one two pictures—one as seen by the right, and the
other as seen by the left eye. If we hold up a thin book perpendicularly,
and midway between both eyes, we see distinctly the back of it and both
sides with the eyes open. When we shut the right eye, we see with the
left eye the back of the book and the left side of it; and when we shut
the left eye, we see with the right eye the back of it and the right
side. The picture of the book, therefore, which we see with both eyes,
consists of two dissimilar pictures united, namely, a picture of the back
and left side of the book as seen by the left eye, and a picture of the
back and right side of the book as seen by the right eye.”
This argues that the sportsman who closes one eye at the time of taking
aim at an away-going bird, really has a very imperfect view of it—but
half a picture, as it were—hence the aim could not possibly be so perfect
as in case where the picture was rendered more distinct by the use of
both eyes, in accordance with the clear explanation of Sir David, who
goes on to state:
“But though we see with one eye the direction in which any object or
point of an object is situated, we do not see its position or the
distance from the eye at which it is placed. In monocular vision we learn
from experience to estimate all distances, but particularly great ones,
by various tests, which are called the _criteria_ of distance, but it is
only with both eyes that we can estimate with anything like accuracy the
distance of objects not far from us.
“The most important advantage which we derive from the use of two eyes
is to enable us to see distance, or a third dimension in space. That
this vision is not the result of experience as monocular vision is, is
obvious from the fact that distance is seen as perfectly by children as
by adults; and it has been proved by naturalists that animals newly-born
appreciate distance with the greatest correctness.”
_Dougall’s Reasoning._—Mr. Dougall says, in his “Shooting Simplified,”
that “A thorough good gun will knock over a hare running broadside, with
four or five shots at seventy yards distance, but full elevation must
be taken, and the gun fired with the head well raised and the eyes kept
steady on the aim, _not_ taking sight along the rib, with the eye well
down behind the breech, as has been erroneously recommended.
“Distance requires elevation in proportion. A rifle is fitted with
graduated sights to meet this, but the elevation of the rib of a
fowling-piece is fixed and immovable. But by a simple law of perspective,
when you look at a hare (or any other object) seventy yards away,
bringing mechanically the sight to bear upon it, you have the breech
of the gun lower than if it were only forty yards off; whereas, if you
adopt the one-eye system, you fire at exactly the same elevation at all
distances. It would be as absurd to take a level aim along the rib at
seventy yards as it would be to fire a rifle at a mark at two hundred
yards with the sight set for one hundred.
“While everything has been done to increase the range of the
fowling-piece, nothing has been done to give the elevation necessary to
take full advantage of the increase of power. As long as the one-eye
system of shooting is adopted, the object, if hit at all, will be struck
only by outside weak pellets, and not by the effective central shot.
“The proper way is to throw the gun well up and into the shoulder; the
setting off of the stock will then bring the gun right in front of the
face; and, the head being erect, and both eyes fixed intently on the
object, the line of motion is commanded, and the aim taken instinctively.
The central pellets have thus an allowance given them to compensate for
distance and the motion of the object. You look along the imaginary line,
higher at the breech according to distance, and at this elevation the gun
is fired, exactly as a rifle target-shooter sets his breech sights to a
given distance.
“How does a man drive a nail? Certainly not by closing one eye and
looking along the hammer; but with both eyes open, he mechanically
balances the hammer and strikes instinctively, never, if accustomed to
the use of the tool, missing his aim. It is the same in shooting.”
Coming directly to the subject of employing binocular vision in taking
aim to shoot, Mr. Dougall quotes from a paper in _Once-a-Week_ to the
effect that monocular vision, while much employed for this purpose,
cannot at all be depended upon. To prove this position, place upon a
table an empty small-mouthed vial, and taking another similar vial full
of water in one hand, shut an eye and approach the vial upon the table;
when apparently near enough, stretch out your arm quickly and endeavor to
pour the water from the full vial into the other, still keeping the eye
closed. You will be very apt to find, as the water comes down, that it is
missing the mouth of the empty vial on account of a miscalculation, due
to monocular vision. Now repeat the operation with both eyes open, and
if care is exercised success will be the invariable result. A similar
miscalculation will be shown to the person who endeavors to approach and
snuff a candle with one eye shut.
Mr. Dougall thinks there can be no reasonable question as to the
advantages of learning to use the shot-gun with both eyes open. This has
been proven time and again by the most rigid tests. It is even a settled
fact that the nearer the eyes of an individual set together in the head
the less he is likely to shoot well. “And yet,” says Mr. Dougall, “how
strange it is to find sportsmen who would still further narrow this
fine provision of nature into the diameter of one retina only. Throwing
the fowling-piece into a line with the object of aim by an instinctive
effort, keeping both eyes firmly fixed on and following the flight of the
object, is the first great principle in shooting well.”
_Gloan on Taking Aim._—The clever author of a neat little book entitled
“The Breech-Loaders,” tells us that when the shot leave the gun the
powder which propels the pellets has started them with sufficient force
to keep them up for a short time against all natural resistances acting
upon them, but finally gravitation, which is pulling upon them all the
time, begins to tell, and carry them downward from the line upon which
they set out.
“The shot have a journey to perform after they leave the gun, and before
they reach the bird. It may be a long journey or a short journey,
according to the distance of the bird; but still it is a journey, and
it takes some time to do it in. While the shot are traveling on their
way, the bird is flying on _his_ way. If the bird is flying across the
shooter, and the aim is at the bird, naturally, by the time the shot get
to the point of aim, the bird has gone on beyond it, and is untouched by
the shot. And if the distance is great, gravitation has affected the shot
and pulled them down below the point of aim. Possibly, too, the wind is
strong, and has blown them a little to one side. So that, assuming that a
sportsman aims steadily and exactly at a cross-flying bird, sixty yards
distant, going a mile a minute, the gun making a pattern good enough to
kill, what results?
“When the shot arrive at their point of destination they are from eight
to ten feet behind the point to which the bird has flown; and they are
from ten to twelve inches below the line upon which the bird was flying.
If the wind is high they are blown aside, even on the lower line, and the
other pellets become harmless if they hit. The bird escapes, as a matter
of surprise to the young sportsman, who is confident that he ‘covered it
exactly.’
“He did cover it, literally, and exactly, and that was the cause of the
miss. If he had aimed the length of a fence rail ahead of the bird and
half the length above it, he would probably have brought it down. As the
shot was, however, the bird was sure to be lost.
“An old shot will shine on range and allowance. His eye will measure
distance as though with a tape-line. He will estimate velocity as with
a registering instrument. He makes his cheek an index of the wind, and
before his gun is at his shoulder he has decided with unfailing skill
where the aim must be, and there he plants the load. If the bird does not
fall it is the gun’s fault, not his.
“By the binocular vision these difficulties, which are so trying to the
novice, are the more readily overcome. The eyes take in the flight of the
bird, and convey the rate of speed at which it flies. The full distance
of the whole perspective of the landscape is made palpable to the sense,
and the finger responds to the call, which is made all the more quickly
and all the more truly because of the certainty which the eyes impart.”
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
ON USING THE PISTOL.
_Natural Talent._—The number of persons who are really good shots with
the pistol is smaller than one would be apt to suppose after considering
how many weapons of this kind are in every-day use. They are almost
as common as pocket-knives, and some of them are capable of shooting
reasonably well at considerable length of range, and yet not an average
of one man in five hundred, who owns a pistol, could be found, perhaps,
who could put fifty per cent. of his bullets through a hat set up for a
target ten paces away. The fact is, the pistol, while capable enough,
if well made, is the most difficult of all our fire-arms to manage,
so far as relates to good performances. There are men who can take a
good revolver and shoot a chicken’s head off every time, ten or fifteen
paces, but of such men there are not very many. And none of them have
ever communicated how they happened to become such fine shots with the
pistol. In some cases they had practiced a good deal, but not more than
had hundreds who were but comparatively poor performers. To come squarely
down to the point at once, the peculiarity which made them good shots
with the pistol was a “born-gift,” as in the case of the best shots with
the shot gun. Any man who practices with the pistol, in accordance with
the established rules governing its use for best results, may soon become
a fair shot, but it calls for more than mere practice to make him an
excellent shot.
_Taking Aim._—The best shots do not take aim by sighting along the barrel
of the pistol, holding it out at arm’s length after the manner of the
wooden figure standing in front of the city shooting-gallery. They do
not close one eye and turn sideways to the object of aim like the ideal
duelist, but they hold out the pistol, look at the object (not the
pistol), with both eyes open, and blaze away, usually putting the bullet
about where they want it to go. There is really no aim-taking in the
case, any more than there is in the case of a boy playing at marbles.
Indeed, shooting a pistol to the best advantage is very much on the
same principle as shooting a marble. The boy takes the marble properly
between his thumb and first finger, holds out his hand in the direction
of the marble to be shot at, but considerably below his line of vision,
looks at the object-marble with both eyes open and “flips” in obedience
to the promptings of a kind of unconscious calculation as to distance,
force at command, effect of gravitation, and so on. The marble “flipped”
curves out on its way, and, if shot from the hand of a skillful player,
strikes its mark with astonishing certainty. Just so with the bullet sent
from the pistol; under the management of a skillful performer it goes in
obedience to an unconscious calculation, and not in obedience to the
squinting of one eye along the barrel. Sight-taking won’t do in either
case; the good marble player would be a hopeless failure if he held
up his arm to his line of vision and took sight every time he went to
“shoot”—the pistol-shooter who performs upon the same plan is invariably
a marksman of sterling uncertainty, to say the least.
_Cane Aiming._—Some people are so deficient in the species of calculation
necessary to successful pistol-shooting, on the plan suggested in the
foregoing, that they cannot do much at it. Such as these have some excuse
for taking sight, but holding the pistol out at arm’s length and sighting
along the barrel or through its “sights” rarely gives them more than very
little certainty. The best method of actually taking sight with a pistol
is performed in connection with a rod some three feet long—usually with
a walking cane. Grasp the grip of the pistol in the right hand, in the
usual way, and take the cane in the left hand. Bring the handle of the
cane up against the shoulder like the breech of a gun, pass the pistol
down along the side of it till the barrel reaches the left hand, and both
hands are in easy position. Hold the cane between the thumb and first
finger of the left hand, letting them pass beyond it and grip the barrel
of the pistol between the end of the thumb and the turned-up end of the
finger. Let the thumb and first finger of the right hand also grip the
cane beyond the “grip” of the pistol. The aim of the pistol should range
a little to the right of the direction pointed by the cane, which it
will very naturally do.
This plan steadies the pistol and affords as fine an opportunity of
taking perfect sight as one could have with a rifle. A little practice
with it, to enable one to arrive at a certain conclusion as to the rise
or fall of the bullet, will soon pave the way for pretty fair shooting.
A kind of clasp with which to fasten the pistol to the cane is now on
the market, and may be made to work very well, though some would always
prefer holding the pistol with the hands, in the manner just described.
_The Best Pistols to Use._—It is not advisable to say a recommendatory
word about any particular make—how could it be done, under the above
heading, when there are twenty or thirty really good pistols now before
the public under the brand of the same number of different manufacturers?
The best pistol for any person to use is any good pistol that this person
happens to like, and no other kind. All pistols do not shoot alike, and,
hence, when any one has practiced with a certain kind until accustomed to
its peculiarities they had better stick to it, as a change would be apt
to throw at least some derangement in the shooting calculations, putting
them under the necessity of a repeated practice. All the best shots
invariably stick to some particular make of pistol, and usually to some
particular size.
In making choice of a size it is best to be governed by the character
of work the pistol is desired to perform. The large pistols shoot
stronger, and, as a general rule, with greater accuracy than the small
ones; still, comparatively small pistols are sometimes known to shoot
reasonably well. They are intended only for short range however, and
hence must not be depended upon when a good performance of long-range
pistol shooting is desired. The large pistol has many advantages over the
small one, while the latter can claim but two over the former. These two
consist in its lightness, fitting it to figure as a pocket pistol, and in
the lesser cost of its ammunition.
CHAPTER XXXIX.
VOCABULARY OF MECHANICAL TERMS USED BY GUN-MAKERS.
_Action._—The iron bed attached to the stock of a breech-loading gun,
into the recess of which the lump descends and is secured. The term
is used generally as “side action,” “snap action,” etc. The word is
also used to indicate the different form of gun locks, as back-action,
bar-action, front-action, etc.
_Anneal._—To render more soft, as in the case of iron and other metals.
_Auxiliary Rifle._—A rifle-barrel some twenty inches in length, and so
arranged that, like a cartridge, it may be slipped within the barrel of
a breech loading shot-gun, thus at once converting the shot-gun into a
rifle. The rifle-barrel, charged with its cartridge, may be placed in the
shot-gun in a moment and at pleasure.
_Back-action Lock._—A lock that is located entirely back of the barrel,
being bedded in the stock alone.
_Bar-action Lock._—When the lock is bedded partly back of the barrel and
partly along side of it.
_Barrel._—The iron or steel tube of the gun through which the charge
passes in the act of firing.
_Barrel-loop._—A metallic loop under the barrel, through which a small
bolt passes to hold the barrel into the stock.
_Bents._—The notches in the tumbler of a gun-lock.
_Black-Walnut._—A tree, native to North America, whose wood is
extensively used in the manufacture of fine gun stocks; the _Juglans
nigra_ of botanists.
_Binocular Vision._—Seeing with two eyes.
_Bolt._—The part which, in a breech-loader, passes into the lump of the
barrel and holds it into the action when the gun is closed.
_Bore._—The interior of the barrel along which the charge passes.
Bores are made of the following forms: True cylinders; cylinders enlarged
at the breech; cylinders enlarged or freed at the muzzle; tapered to
narrow at the muzzle; narrowed to close at the muzzle; cylindrical,
with ring cut out near muzzle; narrowing the muzzle with depth cut out,
modified, etc. Bores are also made elliptical, hexagonal, polygonal, etc.
_Brazing._—Soldering iron with brass or copper as a solder.
_Breech._—In earlier days all that portion of the gun back of the lock
was considered _the_ breech, but now a gun is regarded as having two
breeches: the breech of the barrel, the place where the cartridge is
inserted, as in the case of the breech-loaders, and the breech of the
stock, being that part which comes against the shoulder.
_Breech-bolt._—A small iron bar used in some make of guns to assist in
holding the barrel secure to the action.
_Bridle._—That piece in the lock connected with the tumbler as a kind of
cap.
_Browning._—A rust produced on the surface of gun-barrels by means of
acids.
_Bump._—The corner of the stock at the top of the heel-plate.
_Burnisher._—A piece of smooth and hardened steel used in polishing the
surface of metals.
_Calibre._—The diametrical measurement of the bore of a gun barrel.
Breech loaders are made of 10, 12, 14, 16 and 20 calibre. Muzzle loader
of every variety of measurement.
_Cap._—The metal covering placed on the end of a pistol handle. Also
the small cup-like contrivance put on the nipple upon which the hammer
strikes to fire the gun.
_Carbine._—A short form of rifle; so made to be easily carried by persons
who used them mounted on horses.
_Cartridges._—The ammunition for a gun, contained in metal or paper
cases. They are sized to regular numbers, as gauge 10 or 12, etc., and
are of two kinds, central-fire and rim-fire.
_Case-hardening._—A hardened, steel-like exterior given to iron by
heating it in connection with animal charcoal, and then plunging while
hot in cold water.
_Central-fire._—Setting off the cartridge by striking it in the centre,
where the fulminate is placed.
_Chamber._—The enlarged space in the breech of the barrel wherein
the cartridge is placed, or where the charge rests in the case of a
muzzle-loader. The bores intended to receive the charge in the cylinder
of a revolver. In loading a gun with coarse shot, if they rest in the
barrel side by side in regular layers or strata, we say they chamber; but
if they are a little too large for this, so that some of the shots must
lie above the common level for want of space between other shots and the
side of the bore to admit of their going down, we say the gun will not
chamber shot of that particular size. A gun is not supposed to shoot shot
to perfection which she cannot chamber.
_Charger._—A small measure employed for measuring powder in loading a gun
or cartridge-shell.
_Chequer-work._—The chequered carving as made on the stock of a gun.
_Cherry-mould._—A small spherical cutting-tool, used for enlarging
the interior of bullet moulds. It may be bought of houses dealing in
gunsmith’s materials, or it may be made by dressing a piece of soft steel
down to proper shape, cutting file-teeth upon it and then hardening in
the usual way. To use the cherry, close the mould upon it and then turn
it round and round until the interior of the mould is cut out to the
required size and shape.
_Cherry Tree._—A North American tree, growing to about medium size and
furnishing a hard, reddish and most beautiful wood, highly prized for
fine gun stocks. It is now getting to be quite scarce. Botanical name,
_Cerasus serotina_.
_Choke-bore._—A gun-bore slightly larger at the breech than at the muzzle.
_Choke-dressing._—Dressing out the bore of a gun so as to make it
slightly larger at the breech than at the muzzle.
_Clamp, Mainspring._—A mainspring clamp is a kind of vise used by
gunsmiths for clamping the mainspring preparatory to taking it from the
lock.
_Cock._—In flint-lock guns, that part of the lock which holds the flint.
The name is also often applied to the hammer of percussion and other
locks of more modern make. When the hammer has been pulled back to its
last catch, we say the gun is cocked, or at full-cock; when pulled back
to the catch next preceding the last, we say the gun is half-cocked, or
at half-cock.
_Comb._—That portion of the stock upon which the cheek rests at the time
of firing.
_Cone._—See Nipple.
_Countersink._—The recess in the chamber in which the rim of the
cartridge fits.
_Cross-Fire._—We say a rifle “crosses fire” when it plays the balls on
the same level without varying upward or downward.
_Curled Maple._—This is not a species of growth, but an unexplained
condition to be met with in the wood of the maple, most commonly in that
of the sugar or hard maple (the _Acer saccharinum_ of botanists), though
occasionally in _Acer rubrum_, or red maple. The grain of the wood lies
in regular waves, presenting a most beautiful appearance when nicely
dressed up. It is very popular for fine gun stocks.
_Cylinder._—That part of a revolver in which the charges are placed. In
the older make of percussion lock guns a short plug screwed into the side
of the barrel at the breech, in which was placed the cap-tube or nipple,
and through which the fire from the cap was communicated to the charge.
_Damascus._—The variegated appearance on gun barrels, produced by welding
together metals dissimilar, as steel and iron, and then, while heated,
twisting these metals into various tortuous forms and re-welding. The
colors of the dissimilar metals are brought out by browning mixtures.
_Direct Fire._—That arrangement in a breech-loader by which the plunger
lies and strikes the ignition horizontally.
_Dog._—That part of the gun-lock acted upon by the trigger to release
the tightened mainspring and set the hammer in motion. Earlier gunsmiths
called it by this name, but it is now usually called the sear.
_Double Triggers._—Often called set-triggers. A pair of triggers arranged
to a rifle, occasionally, to admit of setting it off with but slight
pressure. The triggers are located one in advance of the other under the
guard. To operate pull upon the rear one until it “clicks” and is “set,”
after which cock the gun. The slightest pressure upon the front trigger
springs the “set,” which acts suddenly upon the sear, releasing the
mainspring.
_Drop._—Distance measured from the top of the butt of a gun stock to a
line drawn rear-ward from the top of the barrels, usually from 2 to 3½
inches.
_Elevated Rib._—The raised rib on top of and between the barrels of a
shot gun.
_Escutcheons._—Pieces of metal, through which the bolt to hold the barrel
to the stock, is passed.
_Extractor._—An automatic working rod in central fire guns, by which the
empty cartridge is partly withdrawn from the chamber.
_False Breech._—A piece of iron permanently screwed to the stock to fit
squarely against the breech of the barrel. In the modern muzzle-loader
the barrel is secured against it by hooks. It is also called a patent
breech, also a standing breech.
_Fastenings._—Mechanism for holding the barrel of breech-loaders securely
to the frame or action when the barrel is in position for firing.
_Flash._—In the days of the old flint-lock a gun was said to “flash” when
the priming ignited in the pan but failed to fire the charge.
_Flux._—A substance or mixture used to facilitate the melting of metals
or minerals, as glass, borax, and the like.
_Fore Piece._—That portion of the stock lying under the barrel, forward
of the lock, called also fore-end and fore-arm.
_Fore Sight._—The sight located nearest the muzzle end of the barrel.
_Forge._—A furnace with its accompaniments where iron or other metals are
wrought by heating and hammering. When a piece of metal is hammered into
some required shape, the operation is termed “to forge it.”
_Fowling Piece._—A smooth bored gun, used for hunting small game,
shooting shot or small pellets.
_Freeing._—Slightly enlarging the bore of a gun at the muzzle.
_Frizzen._—In the old flint-lock the steel plate that covers the pan and
stood up in front of the flint, against which the flint struck to produce
fire to ignite the priming.
_Grip._—A name usually applied to the round part of a gun stock just back
of the locks. It is also applied to the handle of a pistol.
_Guard._—The piece of metal which curves around the triggers and protects
them.
_Half Stock._—A gun stock that does not extend the full length of the
barrel.
_Hammer._—That part of the gun-lock that strikes the plunger or cap, or
other form of ignition. See cock.
_Hammer-Gun._—A gun whose lock works with a hammer.
_Hammerless Gun._—A gun whose arrangements for setting off the ignition
are contained inside the breech mechanism, and not visible when the arm
is ready for use.
_Handle._—See grip.
_Hazel Nut._—A small shrub growing abundantly in many portions of the
United States. The _Corylus_ of botanists, divided into two species,
_Americana_ and _Rostrata_.
_Head._—In a gun stock, the part where the breech end of the barrel rests
against.
_Heel Plate._—The metal piece terminating the breech end of a gun stock.
_Hind Sight._—The sight upon the barrel, nearest the breech.
_Hinge Pin._—A pin fixed in the action on which the barrel plays.
_Ignition._—Any chemical combination which can be caused to explode and
fire the charge, as in a cap or cartridge, for instance.
_Kentucky Rifle._—A form of rifle, once very popular with Western
hunters, and now used to some extent. It is muzzle loading, and the great
length of the barrel was one great peculiarity.
_Kick._—When a gun rebounds at firing the term is used “it kicks.”
_Land Space._—The space in the bore of a rifle between the grooves.
_Lever._—The bar or rod the working of which locks or unlocks the action
of a breech-loader, enabling the operator to open or close the gun. As
top-lever, side-lever, under-lever, etc.
_Lock Plate._—The flat plate to the inside of which all the other parts
of the gun-lock are secured.
_Loop._—The projection under the barrel to which the fore end is
fastened. See barrel loop. They are of two kinds, wire and bolt loop.
_Long Fire._—When a noticeable space of time intervenes between the
striking of the hammer and the explosion of the charge, hence the term,
the gun has made “long-fire.”
_Lower Rib._—The rib underneath and between the barrels of a shot gun.
_Lump._—The iron piece soldered to the barrel of a breech-loader, which
descends into the action and is there secured preparatory to firing.
_Magazine Rifle._—A rifle provided with an interior magazine for
containing cartridges, and so made that they are passed automatically
into a chamber ready for firing.
_Mainspring._—The large spring in the gun-lock which imparts action and
power to the hammer.
_Monocular Vision._—Seeing with only one eye. When one eye is closed, as
some do in taking sight with a gun, it is a case of monocular vision.
_Mould._—An implement for moulding bullets. The plural form is generally
given to it, as bullet moulds.
_Musket._—A form of gun, smooth bored and formerly used for military
purposes. When grooves are cut in the interior of the barrel, it is
called a rifle.
_Nipple._—In a percussion-lock gun, the tube upon which the cap is
placed. In the central-fire breech-loader, the tube through the standing
breech in which the striker or plunger works.
_Nipple Wrench._—An implement used for screwing the nipples into position
or out. It is often called a tube-wrench.
_Oblique Fire._—Indicates that the plungers of a breech-loader lie and
strike the ignition obliquely.
_Pan._—A small pan-like outside on the flint-lock, which holds the
priming, and in which the latter is ignited by a spark from the flint
striking the frizzen.
_Patent Breech._—See false breech.
_Pepper Box Pistol._—One form of revolver pistol, in which the barrels
are made full length from one piece of metal. The rotation of the barrels
and the action of the lock to fire the arm was produced by pulling the
trigger.
_Picker._—A small wire implement hung to the shot-pouch of the hunter
in the days of the old flint-lock, and used when occasion required for
picking priming into the touch-hole of the gun.
_Pipes._—Short tubes attached to a barrel or to a rib attached to the
barrel to receive the ramrod and hold it in place.
_Pistol._—A small variety of fire-arm, so made as to be easily carried in
the pocket or a holster, and readily manipulated and fired with one hand.
_Pistol Grip._—A gun stock whose grip inclines to turn down like the
handle of a pistol, is said to have a pistol grip.
_Play._—A rifle which does not shoot with regularity is said to play its
balls.
_Plungers._—The pins which are struck by the hammers, in breech-loaders,
and which in turn strike and explode the ignition.
_Powder Bed._—The chamber, in a muzzle-loader, where the powder lies when
the gun is charged.
_Priming._—The powder in the pan of a flint-lock gun.
_Proof Marks._—Impressions of stamps made in gun barrels to indicate that
they have been proved.
_Proving._—Firing gun barrels with very heavy charges of powder and balls
to ascertain if they are of proper strength.
_Ramrod._—A rod with which the tightly fitting portions of the charge are
pushed home in loading a muzzle-loader.
_Rebounding Lock._—A lock which has the top of the mainspring and crank
of the tumbler lengthened to such an extent that when the trigger is
pulled the hammer delivers its blow and immediately rebounds to the
half-cock.
_Rib._—The metallic strip lying between and connecting the barrels of a
shot-gun. See lower rib and upper rib.
_Rifle._—A gun having grooves cut parallel with each other along the
interior of the barrel. They usually take a more or less spiral course
for the purpose of imparting to the bullet thrown a whirling or twisting
motion on its flight through the air. The grooves thus cut are sometimes
called rifles.
_Rifle._—A gun with grooves cut in a twisted or spiral-like manner on the
interior of the barrel, for the purpose of giving the projectile a rotary
motion on its axis during its flight. The design being to give greater
accuracy to the course of the bullet.
_Rifle Cane._—A metallic walking staff, which is virtually a rifle,
capable of shooting with much force. The lock works internally, and
everything is so arranged as to pretty effectually conceal the true
character of the arm, it, at a casual glance, presenting only the
appearance of a neat walking-stick.
_Rifle Guide._—An implement used by the gunsmith to guide the course of
his rifle-saws in cutting grooves in the bore of a barrel.
_Rifle-Saws._—Short files made to fit in the grooves of a rifle. They are
usually attached to a rod, near the end, and drawn to and fro through the
gun for the purpose of filing the grooves down to greater depth, where
such a thing is required. In cases where new grooves are to be cut in a
smooth-bore, the rod passes through a rifle-guide, which forces the saws
to take the proper twist through the barrel.
_Rim-Fire._—A cartridge whose ignition is around the rim instead of
in the centre, and which, consequently, can be used only by some arm
striking the cartridge at the rim.
_Rouge._—A fine powdery material, used for putting a high polish upon
the surface of well-finished metals. It is usually applied by rubbing in
connection with soft leather, either in the form of a buff or otherwise.
_Saturated Solution._—A liquid holding in solution as much of some
particular soluble chemical as it will dissolve. For instance, if salt
be put in water until a portion remains undissolved at the bottom of the
vessel, there is in the liquid a saturated solution because it holds in
suspension all the salt that it can dissolve.
_Scatter._—When a shot gun throws the pellets over a range of space
unusually wide, it is said that it scatters.
_Scroll Guard._—An extension downward from the trigger guard, to steady
the hand. It is designed to answer the same as pistol grip.
_Sear._—Sometimes called dog, which see.
_Sear-Spring._—The small spring in a gun-lock which presses the sear into
the notches of the tumbler.
_Set-Triggers._—See double-triggers.
_Side-Lever._—A lever which works at the side of a breech-loader.
_Side-Screw._—The long screw holding the lock to the stock.
_Slack-Tub._—A vessel containing cold water, to be used in suddenly
cooling hot metals, as in hardening steel, for instance.
_Smooth Bore._—A gun for throwing single bullets, made on the plan of
a rifle, but having no grooves in the bore. It is sometimes called a
“smooth-bore rifle.”
_Standing Breech._—See false breech.
_Steady-pin._—The small projection on the mainspring which fits into the
lock-plate.
_Strap._—The metal strip in a breech-loader which runs from the
breech-works down the stock, in place of the tail, or the old fashioned
breech-pin.
_Strikers._—See plungers.
_Sugar Maple._—A tree indigenous to the United States, whose wood is
extensively used in the manufacture of gun-stocks. See curled maple.
_Swivel._—The small piece in a lock connecting the tumbler and the
mainspring.
_Tear._—When a bullet makes a hole larger than its own diameter,
particularly in the flesh of an animal, the gun from which it was shot is
said to tear.
_Tenons._—Iron projections on the lump of a breech-loader, to fit into
corresponding spaces in the action.
_Thimbles._—The metallic loops on the under side of a muzzle-loader, made
to hold the ramrod when not in use.
_Toe._—The extremity of the breech which rests nearest the armpit when in
the act of taking off-hand aim.
_Top Lever._—The lever of a breech-loader, which works on the upper side
of the gun, just back of the hammers.
_Trigger._—The small lever under the gun, upon which is pressed with the
finger to release the confined mainspring and allow the hammer to descend.
_Trigger-Plate._—The iron plate in which the trigger works.
_Trigger Spring._—A small spring to keep the trigger pressed close to the
sear.
_Tube._—The modern gunmaker calls the gun-barrel a tube; in old times
the only tube known to the gunsmith was that projection upon which the
percussion cap was exploded. See nipple.
_Tube._—See nipple.
_Tumbler._—That part of the lock directly connected with the hammer, and
in which are the two set notches.
_Tumbler-Screw._—The screw on the outside of the lock, passing through
the hammer and holding it securely in its connection with the tumbler.
_Upper Rib._—The rib above and between the barrels of a double-barrel
shot-gun.
_Vent._—A small hole in side of the gun breech communicating with the
interior or powder chamber.
_Vise._—An implement for clamping or holding.
_White Maple._—The _Acer dasycarpum_ of botanists—a near relative of the
sugar maple. Common in many parts of the United States. Called soft maple
in some localities.
_Whole-Stock._—A gun-stock extending the entire length of the barrel.
_Wiper._—A long ramrod used only in wiping out and cleaning the bore of a
muzzle loader. Also a small spiral implement made to screw on the end of
a ramrod for the purpose of boring into and drawing a wad from a gun, or
for holding material for wiping. Sometimes called a wormer.
_Wormer._—See wiper.
CHAPTER XL.
VOCABULARY OF CHEMICALS AND SUBSTANCES USED IN BROWNING, VARNISHES, &C.
_Acid, Gallic._—Acid produced in yellowish colored crystals, derived from
nut-galls or oak-apples. Soluble in water and alcohol. Nut galls are an
import ingredient in the manufacture of good black ink.
_Acid, Muriatic._—Called also Hydrochloric Acid and sometimes spirit of
salt. Made by the action of sulphuric acid on common salt (chloride of
sodium). Mingled with half its volume of Nitric Acid it forms Aqua Regia.
_Acid, Nitric._—Sometimes called Aqua Fortis. Made by the decomposition
of Nitre, or saltpetre by strong sulphuric acid.
_Acid, Sulphuric._—Called oil of vitriol, made from sulphur and nitre or
saltpetre.
_Acid, Hydrochloric._—Called Muriatic Acid, which see.
_Alcohol._—The product of the fermentation of sugar, and is contained
in all fermented liquors. It is a colorless fluid, boils at 173° F. and
burns without smoke. The volatile oils and resins are dissolved by it, as
well as many acids and salts, the caustic alkalies, etc. The resulting
compounds of the acids upon alcohol are called ethers.
_Alkanet Root._—The root of a species of Bugloss. It affords a fine
red color to alcohol and oils, but a dirty red to water. The spirituous
tincture gives to white marble a beautiful deep stain.
_Annatto._—Also spelled Anotta and Anotto. A red coloring substance
obtained from the pulp of the seed-vessel of the plant _Bixa orellana_.
It dissolves better and more readily in alcohol than in water.
_Antimony, Chloride of._—Called also Butter of Antimony and
Sesquichloride of Antimony. Made by distilling the residue of the
solution of sulphuret of antimony in strong hydrochloric acid, or by
distilling a mixture of corrosive sublimate and antimony. It is highly
corrosive. In medicine, used as a caustic.
_Antimony, Butter of._—See Antimony, Chloride of.
_Aqua Fortis._—Called also Nitric Acid, which see.
_Aqua Regia._—Made by mixing one part nitric acid in two muriatic acid,
by measure; keep the mixture in a bottle in a cool, dark place.
_Asphaltum._—Native bitumen, will dissolve in turpentine with gentle heat.
_Benzoin, Gum or Gum Benjamin._—A gum extracted from the tree, _Styrax
benzoin_, which grows in the East Indies. It fuses at a gentle heat,
can be dissolved in alcohol and imperfectly dissolved in ether. It is
employed as a varnish for toilet and other articles, which give out an
agreeable smell when warmed by the heat of the hand.
_Blue Vitriol._—Sulphate of copper. A salt formed by sulphuric acid in
combination with copper. It is soluble in cold or warm water, used much
in dyeing and exciting galvanic batteries.
_Brimstone._—See sulphur.
_Brimstone, Black._—Crude sulphur.
_Burnt Umber._—Umber is a mineral of brown color from the Island of
Cyprus. Two kinds are found in the market, raw and burnt.
_Butter of Antimony._—See antimony, chloride of.
_Camphor._—A solid concrete substance, _Laurus camphor_ or Indian laurel
tree, which grows in the East Indies, China and Japan. Soluble in
alcohol, ether, oil and acetic acid.
_Chloride of Antimony._—See antimony, chloride of.
_Chloride of Mercury._—Called corrosive sublimate, which see.
_Chloride of Iron._—See muriate of iron.
_Copal._—The concrete juice of a tree growing in South America and the
East Indies. Strictly speaking, it is not a gum or a resin, but rather
resembles amber. It may be dissolved by digestion in linseed oil with
heat little less than sufficient to boil the oil. The solution, diluted
with oil of turpentine, forms a transparent varnish. It also dissolves in
ether, and the ethereous solutions may be mixed with alcohol.
_Copperas._—Sulphate of iron or green vitriol. A salt made by the
decomposition of iron or iron pyrites in oil of vitriol. Dissolved in
water, is the basis of black dyes, and is used in making ink, &c.
_Copper, Sulphate of._—Called blue vitriol, which see.
_Corrosive Sublimate._—Chloride of mercury. A salt prepared by the
decomposition of sulphate of mercury by common salt. It is a deadly
poison. It is soluble in alcohol, ether, in two or three parts of hot
water and in about 15 parts cold water. It melts and sublimes about 600°.
The white of eggs is an antidote for the poison.
_Damar or Dammar._—A gum obtained from the agathis or dammar tree, allied
to the pine trees, growing in the East Indies. It is soluble in alcohol
and in oil of turpentine.
_Dragon’s Blood._—The inspissated juice of various plants, of a red
color, used for tinging varnishes, tooth tincture, staining marble, &c.
_Ether, Nitric._—Mode of distilling equal parts of strong nitric acid
and alcohol with a few grains of urea. It is liquid, colorless, of sweet
taste, and insoluble in water. It boils at 185° F. The vapor explodes at
moderate heat.
_Elemi._—A resin obtained from plants grown in the East Indies and South
America. In making lackers, it is used to give toughness to the varnish.
_Fustic._—The wood of a tree growing in the West Indies. Used for dyeing
yellow.
_Gallic Acid._—See Acid, gallic.
_Green Copperas._—Sulphate of iron. See Copperas.
_Green Vitriol._—Copperas, which see
_Hydrochloric Acid._—Muriatic Acid, which see
_Iron, Chloride of._—See Muriate of Iron.
_Iron, Muriate of._—See Muriate of Iron.
_Iron, Sulphate of._—See Sulphate of Iron.
_Iron, Sesqui-Chloride of._—Perchloride of iron or permuriate of iron.
Made by dissolving rust of iron in muriatic acid and then crystalizing.
It forms red crystals. Soluble in water, alcohol and ether. Very
corrosive.
_Logwood._—The wood of a tree growing in Central America. The extract is
used in dyeing black color.
_Madder._—A plant of the genus Rubia, one species of which is used in
dyeing red.
_Manganese, Sulphate of._—A beautiful rose-colored salt, used to give a
fine brown dye.
_Mastic._—A resin exuding from the mastic tree. It is in yellowish-white,
semi-transparent tears. Used as an ingredient in varnishes.
_Mercury, Quicksilver._—A metal fluid at ordinary temperatures.
Congealable at about 40° below zero. Boils at 660° and forms a colorless
dense vapor. It is used in barometers and thermometers, and in alloy
with tin in coating mirrors. It unites with chloroform, forming calomel
and corrosive sublimate. The only acids that act on it are sulphuric and
nitric. To unite with the latter it must be heated.
_Mercury, Chloride of._—See Chloride of Mercury.
_Mercury, Horn._—Called Chloride of Mercury.
_Mercury, Muriate of._—Chloride of Mercury.
_Muriate Tincture of Steel._—See Muriate of Iron.
_Muriate of Iron._—Called Chloride of Iron. Made by dissolving iron
filings in muriatic acid and crystalizing by evaporation. Crystals of
green color being the result.
_Nitrate of Silver._—Made by dissolving silver in nitric acid and
evaporating the solution in crystals. Will dissolve in warm water. Is
used for indelible ink to mark clothing and in photography. When fused
and cast in small sticks is called lunar caustic.
_Nitric Acid._—See Acid, nitric.
_Nitric Ether._—See Ether, nitric.
_Oil of Vitriol._—See Acid, sulphuric.
_Pearlash._—Carbonate of potassa. An alkali obtained from the ashes of
trees by leaching. When evaporated to dryness in iron kettles it is
called potash, but when calcined to burn off the coloring matter it is
called pearlash.
_Potash._—See Pearlash. Sometimes called salts of tartar.
_Pumice Stone._—A substance resembling the slag from furnaces, ejected
from volcanoes. The pulverized material is used to remove the gloss and
imperfections on varnished surfaces by rubbing with a woolen cloth and
water.
_Quicksilver._—See Mercury.
_Rotten Stone._—A soft stone used for fine grinding and polishing.
Generally used after pumice stone, and is applied with a soft woolen
cloth and sweet oil.
_Salts of Tartar._—See Potash.
_Sandarac._—A resin that exudes from tree growing in Africa. Fusible by
heat and soluble in alcohol. Used in varnishes.
_Sesqui-Chloride of Iron._—See Iron, Sesqui-chloride of.
_Shellac._—Lac is a resinous substance produced mainly from the banyan
tree of the East Indies. It is the product of an insect. Stick lac is
the resin in its natural state; seed lac when broken up, cleaned of
impurities and washed; shellac when it is melted and formed in thin
flakes. United with ivory-black or vermilion it makes sealing wax.
Dissolved in alcohol it makes lackers and varnishes.
_Silver, Nitrate of._—See nitrate of silver.
_Soda._—Common. See potash.
_Spanish Whiting._—Ground chalk carefully cleaned from all stony matter.
_Spirits of Nitre._—An alcoholic solution of nitrous ether.
_Steel, Tincture of._—See muriate tincture of steel.
_Sulphate of Iron._—Copperas or green vitriol. See copperas.
_Sulphate of Manganese._—See manganese, sulphate of.
_Sulphur._—Often called brimstone. A mineral of yellowish color. Soluble
in turpentine, fat oils, bisulphuret of carbon and hot liquor of potassa.
With oxygen it forms sulphuric and sulphurous acids, and with the metals
it combines as sulphurets or sulphides. It is an essential ingredient
in gunpowder, and the gas arising from its combustion is employed in
bleaching straw and woolen goods.
_Tartar, Salts of._—See potash.
_Turpentine._—An oleo-resinous substance as flowing from several
species of pine, larch and fir trees. Oil of turpentine is obtained by
distilling the crude turpentine.
_Umber, Burnt._—See Burnt Umber.
_Venice Turpentine._—A liquid resin which exudes from the larch tree.
The Venice turpentine usually met with is turpentine to which is added a
quantity of black melted resin.
_Verdigris._—A green oxide of copper, very poisonous. The white of eggs
is an antidote for the poison, when taken into the stomach.
_Vitriol, Blue._—Called sulphate of copper. See Blue Vitriol.
_Vitriol, Green._—Sulphate of iron. See Copperas.
_Vitriol, Oil of._—See Acid, sulphuric.
_Whiting, Spanish._—See Spanish Whiting.
CHAPTER XLI.
CALIBRES OF GUNS, RIFLING, TWIST OF RIFLING, ETC.
_European Guns._—The Enfield Rifle; Muzzle Loader, Cal. 577; 3 grooves;
regular twist, slightly deeper at breech than at the muzzle; rifling one
turn in 6 feet 6 inches.
The Purdy Rifle, Muzzle Loader; Cal. 650; 4 grooves; increasing twist,
commencing at one turn in 6 feet and ending at one turn in 4 feet 9
inches.
The Wilkinson Rifle, Muzzle Loader, Cal. 530; 5 grooves with a regular
twist of one turn in 6 feet 6 inches.
The Lancaster Rifle, Muzzle Loader. Bore smooth and elliptical diameter
at muzzle; greater axis, 550; lesser axis, 540; greater axis at breech,
557; lesser axis, 543. The twist is one quarter turn in whole length of
barrel. Length of barrel, 39 inches.
The Snider Rifle, Muzzle Loader; Cal. 577; 5 grooves, one turn in 4 feet.
The Whitworth Rifle, Muzzle Loader. Polygonal or hexagonal form of bore.
Rifling, one turn in 20 inches. Bore, 564 across the flats. 568 across
center of flats.
The Jacobs Rifle, Muzzle Loader; 4 grooves; loads and grooves equal.
Rifling four-fifths turn in 24 inches.
The Turner Rifle, Muzzle Loader. Bore, 568. Rifling Turner’s Patent, one
turn in 4 feet.
The Rigby Rifle, Muzzle loader. Rifling 6 grooves; one turn in 4 feet.
The Boucher Rifle, Muzzle Loader. Bore hexagon with angles, rounded off
so as to form shallow grooves, 608 deep in center. Bore, 570. Rifling one
turn in 3 feet 3 inches.
The Prussian Needle Gun, Breech Loader. Rifling 4 grooves, one turn in 40
inches.
The Chassepot Rifle, Breech Loader; Cal. 433; rifling 4 grooves, turning
from left to right, one turn in 21½ inches.
The Snider Enfield, Breech Loader. Rifling 3 grooves slightly deeper at
breech than at the muzzle, one turn in 78 inches. Diameter, 577. Depth of
rifling at muzzle, 05. At breech, .13. Width of grooves three-sixteenths
inch.
Westley Richard’s, Breech Loader. Bore octagonal form. Rifling one turn
in 20 inches.
Regulation Minie Rifle, Muzzle Loader. Rifling one turn in 6 feet 6
inches.
_American Guns._—The Peabody-Martini Rifle, Breech Loader. Rifling 7
grooves, one turn in 22 inches, gain twist, lands and grooves of equal
width.
Maynard Rifle, Breech Loader. Rifling 3 grooves, one turn in 5 feet,
lands and grooves equal width; depth, .01.
Sharp’s Rifle, Breech Loader. Lands and grooves equal width. Rifling one
turn in 20 inches.
Bown & Sons’ Kentucky Rifle, Muzzle Loader. Standard number of grooves 7,
but made with 4, 5, 6, and 7 grooves, same width as lands. Even twist
one turn in 42 inches. Gain twist commences at 9 feet and ends at 6 feet.
Powel & Son’s Breech Loading Rifle, 6 and 7 grooves, one turn in 36
inches.
Steven’s Rifle, Breech Loader. Regular twist, one turn in 26 inches.
Springfield, U. S. Rifle, Breech Loader, Cal. 45. Rifling 3 plain
concentric grooves. Lands and grooves equal width. Uniform twist, one
turn in 22 inches, depth .005.
Frank Wesson’s Rifle, Breech Loader. Long and mid-range guns using long
slugs, even twist, one turn in 18 inches, grooves 6, lands and grooves
equal width. Short range guns, using slugs having short bearing, increase
twist commencing on 6 feet, and ending on 2 feet, 5 and 6 grooves, lands
and grooves of equal width.
Wesson’s Muzzle Loading Rifle. Barrel 2′ 8″ long. Rifling one turn in 3′
6″ 6 grooves; space between grooves equal to interior surface presenting
a dovetail appearance. Groves not so wide as spaces.
The Whitney Arms Co.’s Guns, Breech Loading, comprising the Whitney,
Kennedy, and Phœnix systems. Rifling 6 grooves, one turn in 22 inches.
Lands and grooves of equal width.
Marston’s Rifle (Toronto, Canada), Muzzle Loader, number of grooves 6,
lands and grooves equal width; regular twist, one turn in 30 inches;
depth of groove 15-thousandths inch, slightly freed at breech.
_Pistols._—Colt’s Army Pistol, Breech Loading Revolver, Cal. 45. Rifling
6 grooves, twist uniform, one turn in 16 inches; depth .005.
Schofield, Smith & Wesson Revolver for Army Use, Breech Loader. Bore,
.435. Number of grooves 5, uniform twist, one turn in 20 inches. Depth of
rifling .0075.
CHAPTER XLII.
DIRECTIONS FOR TAKING APART AND ASSEMBLING RIFLES, DOUBLE-BARRELLED SHOT
GUNS AND PISTOLS, OF THE MOST NOTED MAKERS IN THE UNITED STATES.
_The Ballard Rifle.—(Made by the Marlin Arms Co., New Haven, Conn.)_
_To Take Apart._—1, take the sight from the barrel; 2, take off the
stock by unscrewing butt-plate; and turning out the long tang screw; 3,
drop the lever and take out lever screw; take out the extractor then the
block; 4, unscrew the barrel from the frame and take the tang from the
frame; 5, take the screws from the lock and pry the plates apart.
_To Assemble._—Proceed in reverse order.
_The Burgess Repeating Rifle.—(Made by Whitney Arms Co., New Haven,
Conn.)_—1, receiver; 2, bottom tang; 3, lever; 4, breech-block; 5, top
lever; 6, ejector; 7, carrier-block; 8, bottom plate; 9, bottom plate
snap; 10, hammer; 11 mainspring; 12, hammer-screw; 13, side loading
spring cover as seen from the back; 14, trigger.
_To Take Apart._—1st, take out the bottom plate screw, and remove the
plate; 2d, take out the top cover screws and slide the cover back against
the hammer, having depressed the lever sufficiently to let it pass by,
then pull back the hammer as far as possible and take the cover out; 3d,
take out the carrier screws, there being one on each side of the upper
rear portion of the receiver, and the stop screw on the upper front left
hand side of the receiver, then the lever, breech-block, extractor and
earner can be taken out through the top.
_To Disengage the Lever from the Breech Block._—Take out, 1st, the firing
pin screw; 2d, the firing pin; 3d, the ejector from the side of the
breech-block; 4th, the large pin from either side. In assembling, replace
the pin in exactly the same position it was when taken out.
_To Assemble._—1st, place the lever, breech-block, extractor and carrier
in their proper position, relatively to one another, as they were when
taken out, with the projection on the breech-block inside, and under the
front part of the carrier. 2d. Replace the above parts taken together in
the receiver, passing the handle of the lever first through the top, put
in the carrier side screws and the stop screw. 3d. cock the hammer, slide
the top cover into place, the breech being left half way open, then put
in the screw; 4th, close the breach and screw the bottom plate to place.
_Burnside’s Breech Loading Rifle._—To clean the gun, unlatch the guard
and drop the chamber; press down the small spring bolt at the guard joint
with the finger nail, while the lever of the joint-bolt is turned out of
place and taken from the joint. To detach the movable breech-pin from the
chamber, press it back with the thumb and forefinger of the left hand;
hold the bolt in this position with the thumb nail of the right hand
inserted in the notch of the bolt, while with the fore finger of the same
hand, the breech-pin is pushed into the chamber, and the head or button
of the spring-bolt is turned from its place, when the breech-pin may be
removed. Every part of the arm, except the lock is now exposed to view.
Put together in reverse order of taking apart.
_The Evans Magazine Rifle.—(Made by the Evans Magazine Rifle Co.,
Mechanics Falls, Me.; Merwin, Hulbert & Co., agents, New York City.)_—To
load the magazine, introduce the cartridge through the opening in the
butt plate. Each complete movement of the lever forward carries the
cartridge to its chamber. Repeat the motion till the magazine is full.
To use as a single loader, drop the lever to right angle with the barrel
and insert the cartridge directly in the chamber.
The full motion of the lever forward discharges the empty shell, the
return places the loaded cartridge in position, when the arm is ready for
discharge.
_Semi-Hammerless._—The American Arms Company are now producing a gun
at a low price called the semi-hammerless single gun, for which the
manufacturers claim that it combines the advantages of a hammerless
without the danger of the self-cocking principle. To cock the gun press
down the little lever on the side. The lock-plate is easily removed to
get at and oil the lock. Its construction is such that no water or dirt
can penetrate to the lock.
_The Hotchkiss Magazine Gun.—(Made by Winchester Arms Co., New Haven,
Conn.)_—To remove the magazine cut off, turn the notched end to the
front; place the point of a screw-driver under the rear end and bear down
gently, slightly supporting the front end against the pressure with the
fingers of the left hand. To remove the breech-bolts press on the trigger
and at the same time unlock the bolt and withdraw it. N. B.—The bolt can
be removed in the following manner: unlock and draw back the bolt until
the cocking piece just clears the receiver; then, letting go the handle,
take hold of the cocking piece and turn it down to the right until the
projection on the bolt-head leaves the groove under the front end of
the locking-tube. The latter may then be drawn out at the rear, and the
head at the front of the receiver. To return the bolt, the head must be
inserted from the front and the part from the rear, unless the cut-off
be removed. To remove the magazine-spring and cartridge-follower, insert
the point of a screw-driver in the hole at the rear of the magazine tube,
and draw out the tube. The barrel cannot be removed until the magazine
has been taken out. Remove then the trigger spring screw and spring, the
cartridge stop pin and stop, the trigger pin and trigger using a punch
to drive out the pin. Remover the trigger catch pin and catch, using the
point of a screw-driver in the notched end of the pin to draw it out.
To dismount the breech-bolt, remove the bolt-head, which can be done by
holding the cocking-piece firmly in the left hand, and with the right
turn down the handles as in the act of locking the bolt; the head will
then slip off. Turn out the firing-pin screw; slip the bolt-head partly
on the projecting end of the firing-pin, and use it as a wrench to
unscrew the pin; the mainspring may then be removed. Remove the extractor
by tapping gently on its projecting end with a piece of wood.
To assemble, proceed in the reverse order.
_Howard’s Sporting Rifle, “The Thunderbolt.”_—To clean the lock, take out
the screw that attaches the back end of the yoke to the breech piece;
unscrew the barrel; then take the nut from the back end of the sliding
breech-pin, which with the mainspring and hammer, constitute the lock.
In using, if the operator does not wish to have the piece cocked, he has
only to hold the trigger back while closing the guard, and it will not be
cocked. To cock it from this position, he has only to open the guard a
short distance, and close it. If he wishes to load and fire rapidly, it
will cock itself. If in no haste, or does not wish it cocked, he has only
to hold back the trigger, while closing its guard.
_The Kennedy Magazine Gun.—(Made by Whitney Arms Co., New Haven,
Conn.)_—Directions for taking apart:
1. Take out the two side screws, on the left side of the receiver, that
are nearest together. 2. Remove the bottom plate and carrier block
through the bottom of the receiver. 3. Full cock the hammer and take out
the extractor screw from top cover, then depress the lever sufficiently
to let the cover pass over it, pull back the hammer as far as possible
and slide the cover out over it. 4. Remove the breech-block and lever
together through the top of the receiver.
To disengage the breech-block: 1. Take out the firing-pin screw. 2. The
firing pin. 3. The ejector from the side of the breech-block. 4. The
large pin from either side.
To assemble, put the parts together in reverse order from which they were
taken out.
_Marlin’s Magazine Rifle.—(Made by Marlin Arms Co., New Haven,
Conn.)_—Figure No. 1 shows the arm in a closed position. A, represents
the Lever; B, the Bolt; C, Extractor; D, the Carrier Block; E, the
Ejector; F, the Carrier Block Spring; G, the Hammer; H, the Trigger; I,
the Firing Pin.
To take the action apart: 1. Take out the lever pin screw, and drive out
the lever pin, allowing the lever to be removed. 2. Take out the tang
screw (this allows the stock to be removed), hammer screw, and front pin
that goes through trigger strap; now remove the trigger strap with lock
work attached. 3. The bolt can now be slipped out.
To assemble the action, put the parts into the receiver in reverse order
from that in which they were taken out.
_Maynard Rifle, Self-Priming Model.—(Made by Mass. Arms Co., Chicopee
Falls, Mass.)_—To detach the barrel: Loosen the lever at its rear end
and move it forward. There is a button that keeps the magazine closed;
turn this button downward and forward as far as it will go; then pull
it out as far as it will come; this will detach the lever from the
breech-piece, so that it will come partly out of it; unhook the barrel,
and the lever will pass quite out of the breech-piece. To attach the
barrel reverse the operation.
To remove the nipple: On the left side, opposite the nipple, is the screw
which fastens it; take out this screw; put a stick of hard wood in the
screw-hole; strike the stick a little and the nipple will be driven out.
To dissect the rifle for a thorough cleaning: There are four screws on
the under side of the gun, behind the hole where the lever is pivoted.
Take out the two farthest back, and the stock may then be drawn back so
as to separate it from the breech-piece.
To adjust the joint between the end of the barrel and the breech-piece:
There are two screws visible on the under side of the breech-piece,
forward of the lever. They are to adjust the joint to the thickness of
the flange of the cartridge. To do this: First, turn the screw nearest
the lever once round to the left; now raise the butt-end of the barrel,
put in a cartridge, and observe as you bring the butt-end down again
whether the joint is too close, so as to pinch the flange, or not close
enough to hold it firmly. The exact degree of tightness allows the lever
to work easily, but holds the barrel perfectly firm. This degree will be
found by turning the forward screw to the right or left. Having found
this degree, turn the rear screw to the right, tightly, and the joint is
adjusted.
_The Peabody-Martini Rifle.—(Made by Providence Tool Co., Providence, R.
I.)_—1. Butt Stock. 9. Stock Bolt. 10. Receiver, or Body. 11. Trigger
Spring. 12. Screw for Locking Bolt Spring and Trigger Spring. 14. Stop
Nut. 15. Block Axis Pin. 16. Striker, or Firing Pin. 19. Block. 25.
Tumbler. 26. Indicator. 27. Block Lever. 28. Extractor. 29. Tumbler Rest.
30. Tumbler Rest Axis Screw. 31. Extractor Axis Screw. 32. Guard. 33.
Trigger. 34. Trigger Axis Screw. 35. Swivel. 36. Swivel Axis Screw. 46.
Barrel. 47. Fore, or Tip-Stock. 48. Cleaning Rod.
To dismount body or receiver: Turn keeper-screw so the groove in head
will allow block axis pin to drop out; open the breech, and with the
thumb press with force oil front end of block, and, at the same time,
raise the lever; turn the keeper-screw so as to allow the tumbler axis to
be pushed out. This also relieves the tumbler. Take out extractor axis
screw.
To assemble body: Put lever back to its place in assembled guard and
insert both in the body. Drop in extractor and turn in extractor axis
screw. Put tumbler in place and put in tumbler axis, point upright and
secure keeper screw. With the right hand raise the lever so as to touch
the lever catch, then, with the first finger, pull the trigger back, and
with the thumb push the trigger axis forward, and drop in the assembled
block, the front end entering first. Apply a little force to back end of
block with the left hand, moving the lever a little at the same time with
the right hand, and the block will drop into place. Insert block axis pin
and secure it with the keeper screw.
To dismount guard: Take out tumbler rest axis screw, relieving tumbler
rest. Take out trigger spring screw, relieving trigger spring and locking
bolt spring. Take out trigger axis screw, relieving trigger. Take out
locking bolt screw, if found necessary.
To assemble guard: Hold trigger in place and turn in trigger axis screw.
Restore locking bolt and thumb piece to place and turn in screw. Restore
locking bolt spring and trigger spring and turn in trigger spring screw.
Insert tumbler rest and turn in tumbler rest axis screw. The parts are
now ready to be attached to the body, or receiver.
To dismount block: Turn keeper screw on end of block and take out stop
nut. The firing pin and coil spring will then drop out.
To assemble block: Restore firing pin and coil spring. Turn in stop nut,
and turn keeper screw to secure it.
The firing pin has a rectangular slot near one end. This slot is longer
on one side than on the other. The long side should be so placed as to
admit end of the tumbler freely.
_The Phœnix Breech-Loader.—(Made by Whitney Arms Co., New Haven,
Conn.)_—No special directions are necessary for dismounting and
assembling the Phœnix system. The breech-block is taken out by loosening
the screw that holds the pin, and then taking out the pin. After the
breech-block has been removed let the hammer down as far as it will go,
which relieves it from the pressure of the main spring, and it can then
be easily removed by taking out the screw which holds it.
_The Remington Breech-Loading Rifle.—(Made by E. Remington & Sons, Ilion,
N. Y.)_—Explanation of parts and technical names: AA. Receiver. B. Breech
Piece. C. Hammer. D. Locking Lever. a. Main Spring. bb. Pins. c. Trigger.
d. Lever Spring. e. Trigger Spring. f. Firing Pin. g. Extractor.
To remove the breech piece and hammer: Loosen the button screw until the
button can be removed from the heads of the breech and hammer pins. Cock
the hammer, push out the breech pin, take out the breech piece, let down
the hammer as far as it will go (which leaves the main spring resting
upon a stationary pin, and obviates the necessity of using a main spring
vise in readjusting the parts). Remove the hammer pin and take out the
hammer.
To replace the hammer and breech piece: Lay the arm down on the right
side, press upon the trigger at the same time replacing the hammer with
the thumb piece forward and downward, until the hole in the hammer and
receiver correspond. Replace the hammer pin, cock the hammer, replace
the breech piece, insert breech pin in receiver, and by pressing on the
pin at the same time pressing down the breech piece and working it back
and forth slightly the pin will enter. Adjust the button and tighten the
button screw.
To take the entire arm apart: Take out the extractor screw, open the
breech, remove the extractor, take out the breech piece and hammer, as
described. In military arms remove the wiping rod by unscrewing the same,
remove the bands, separate the tip stock from the barrel at the muzzle,
until it is liberated from the stud upon the under side of the barrel,
when it maybe withdrawn from the receiver; take out the tang screw and
remove the butt stock.
To detach the guard strap: Take out the two side screws which pass
through the guard strap, always removing the rear screw first. Unscrew
the barrel from the receiver, taking care that the extractor has been
removed before unscrewing the barrel.
To assemble the arm: Screw the barrel into the receiver, until the mark
on the top of the barrel and receiver correspond. Replace the extractor
and screw, place the forward end of the guard strap in the receiver,
putting in the screw. See that the main spring is in the center of the
guard strap, press the rear end in until the screw will enter. Replace
the hammer and breech piece, as previously described. Replace butt stock
and tip. In putting on the bands of military guns, see that the letters
upon them are upon the same side with the band springs. Replace the
wiping rod by screwing it in.
The locking lever, attached to the guard strap, serves a double purpose:
one end locking the sear, or trigger, when the breech is open to receive
the cartridge, which effectually prevents accidental discharge, the other
end working in a groove on the under side of the breech piece, serving to
close the breech piece and keep it closed in the act of firing.
_The Remington Magazine Gun; Keene’s patent.—(Made by E. Remington &
Sons, Ilion, N. Y.)_—To remove the breech, turn the large screw at the
right hand side of the stock below the hammer to the right until the
carrier (which should be in its lower position at the time) drops free
of the bolt and allows it to be withdrawn. N. B. The screw referred to
is cut with a left hand thread. To separate the rear end of the bolt and
firing pin from the front end, bend back the hammer and twist it around
to the right until the shoulder on front end of rear cap slides back
in the groove in breech bolt. To reassemble it reverse the operation
described. To take out the extractor, press back the extractor bolt,
using the hooked end of the screw-driver for this purpose, thus releasing
the rear end of the extractor, which may then be lifted out of its seat.
Care should be taken not to let the extractor be thrown out by the spring
when released. To remove the stock, take off the bands; take out the
screw at the end of the metal tip, and remove the tip-stock by slipping
it forward over the magazine tube. Unscrew the magazine tube, take out
the tang screw, remove the guard bow, and take off the butt stock. The
barrel should never be unscrewed except with proper appliances to avoid
injuring the receiver.
To assemble the parts, reverse the operations described, taking care in
screwing in the magazine tube that the follower does not catch against
the cut-off and interfere with replacing the tube.
_Remington No. 3 Rifle.—(Hepburn’s Patent, made by E. Remington and Sons,
Ilion, N. Y.)_—Remove the upper screw on the left hand side, and the
breech block may be taken out. To take out the hammer, remove the upper
screw and slip the hammer forward into the breech block hole. To take
out the extractor, remove the forward screw on left hand side. The lever
which operates the breech block passes through the rocker sleeve with a
square stud and is held in place by a set screw directly under the fore
stock, which must be removed if it is ever desired to take off the lever.
If necessary to remove the guard it can be done by taking off the butt
stock and taking out the side screws in the usual way. The barrel should
not be unscrewed from the frame except with proper appliances. When
necessary to unscrew the frame, the extractor should be taken out and the
breech block and guard put back in place, before putting on the wrench.
_Sharp’s Rifle, (old model using paper or linen cartridge, also model of
1874 using metallic cartridge; made by Sharp’s Rifle Co., Bridgeport,
Conn.)_—To take the arm apart: Relieve the lever key from pressure of
spring by throwing down the lever guard, the key can then be taken out
and the slide with lever guard attached, removed.
To replace, put slide in place, leaving guard down, then insert lever
key, turning the key to place.
To take off the lock, give four or five turns to the side screws; tap
their heads gently with the handle of the screw-driver to start the lock
from its bed, the side screws can then be taken out and the lock removed.
To replace the lock, press it firmly into its bed, before entering the
screws and then turn them up close.
_Sharp’s Rifle, (Borchardt’s Patent model of 1878; made by Sharp’s Rifle
Co., Bridgeport, Conn.)_—Plate 3—AAA, receiver; BB, slide; CC, sear; D,
firing bolt; E, cam; F, extractor; G, connection; H, trigger; K, safety
catch; L, safety lever; MM, lever; NN, mainspring; O, lever spring; P,
barrel stud; R, ramrod stop, military; S, ramrod, military; T, swivel,
military; UU, barrel; W, forearm; W, link; X, butt-stock bolt; 1, lever
pin; 2, lever screw.
To take the arm apart: Loosen the rear screw under the barrel, and this
will relieve the pressure of the lever spring. Cock the gun by opening
and closing. Bring down the guard lever half way. Take out the lever pin
on which the lever rotates. This pin is held in place by a small screw
directly above it. Turn this screw to the left until the circular cut
in its side is on a line with the lever pin, and the latter can then be
removed. Pull lever out of the joint. Replace lever pin so as to hold
extractor in place. Remove screw which connects lever and link, through
hole in left side of link. Take out lever. Push slide up and out, and
then take out extractor.
To strip the slide, uncock it and push out sear pin and remove sear. Take
out pin at rear end of slide. Take out slide plug and mainspring. Drive
cross pin out of firing bolt and remove same. Remove link by taking last
screw out of slide. To remove trigger, safety and safety lever, drive out
trigger pin and safety pin above it. Pull back safety catch and pull out
trigger. Push forward safety catch as far as it will go, and it will drop
out, together with the safety lever above it.
To assemble, replace safety catch, safety lever and trigger. Assemble
slide and cock it. Push safety catch into notch of trigger. Put in
extractor and lever pin. Insert slide and push it down, keeping extractor
close to its place, in base of barrel. Attach lever. Take out lever pin,
bring lever into the joint, replace the pin, and secure it by giving
small screw above it half a turn to the right. Tighten the screw which
was loosened under the barrel.
Never use a hammer or other force either in taking apart or assembling
this system. If the parts are in proper position, everything will go into
place easily.
_The U. S. Muzzle Loading Rifle and Musket._—To take apart: Draw the
ramrod; turn out the tang screw; put the hammer at half cock; partially
unscrew the side screw, and with a light tap on the head of each screw
with the handle of the screw-driver or a light wood mallet, loosen
the lock from its bed in the stock, then turn out the side screws and
remove the lock with the left hand. Remove the side screws and take off
the bands. Take out the barrel by turning the gun horizontally, barrel
downward, holding the barrel loosely with the left hand below the rear
sight, the right hand grasping the stock by the small; if it does not
leave the stock, tap the muzzle on the top side against the work bench
which will effect loosening it at the breech.
To assemble, put together in the inverse order of taking apart. Squeeze
the barrel in place with the hand; give the butt of the stock a gentle
tap on the floor to settle the breech end of the barrel against the head
of the stock.
_Springfield Breech Loading Rifle (made at Springfield, Mass. by U. S.
Government; adopted by U. S. Government.)_—A, Bottom of Receiver; B,
Barrel; C, Breech Screw; E, Hinge Pin; F, Cam Lock; G, Cam Latch Spring;
H, Firing Pin; I, Firing Pin Spring; J, Extractor; K, Ejector Spring and
Spindle; L, ejector Stud; M, Lug of Extractor.
To dismount the breech loading parts: 1. Remove the hinge pin by pressing
on its point with a small-sized punch until the end carrying the arm
projects sufficiently to enable it to be grasped and removed by the
fingers. 2. Remove the breech block carefully, so as not to allow the
extractor and ejector spring to fall out. 3. Remove the extractor and
ejector spring. 4. Remove the cam latch by unscrewing the breech block
cap screw, and loosen the cap with the point of a screw-driver. 5.
Remove the cam latch spring. 6. Turn out the firing pin screw, then take
out the firing pin and spring from the breech block.
To assemble: 1. Insert the firing pin screw in the breech block, then
the firing pin, and then replace the firing pin screw. 2. Insert the cam
latch spring in its place. 3. Replace the cam latch and the breech block
cap; turn the cap screw well down. 4. Insert the ejector spring in its
place. 5. Replace the extractor in such a position in the breech block
that the small recess in the back of the extractor will be in a position
to be presented to the point of the ejector spring spindle. 6. Insert the
breech block. After seeing that the point of the spindle has entered the
recess in the back of the extractor, strike the breech block over the
thumb piece and head of the firing pin, a smart blow with the palm of the
hand, forwards and downwards, this will cause it to enter sufficiently to
hold it in place. Then press it into position by grasping the block and
receiver with the fingers and thumb, the thumb uppermost, and squeeze it
home. 7. Insert the hinge pin by striking it a sharp blow with the palm
of the hand. See that the stud in the arm enters the recess cut for it on
the side of the receiver.
Should the thumb piece interfere with the head of the hammer in raising
the breech block, it is probable that either the tumbler or sear screw is
too loose or broken.
_Whitney Breech Loading Gun (made by Whitney Arms Company, New Haven,
Conn.)_—To take apart: 1. Give the screw in the side of the frame or
receiver (that holds the two fulcrum pins) a few turns to release the
flanges or heads of the two pins, then turn them away from the screw a
little. 2. Place the hammer on the half-cock, open the breech half way,
and press the locking shoulder back with the screw-driver until it is
held by the catch on the locking lever made for the purpose. 3. Knock
out the pin that holds the breech block, and take out the breech block,
lever and cartridge extractor at the same time. 4. Bring the hammer to
full-cock, so as to release the locking shoulder, and then uncock it,
pressing it forward so as to relieve the tension of the springs; knock
out the large pin, and take out the hammer and locking shoulder together.
To assemble: 1. Draw back the trigger to its usual place and insert the
hammer and locking shoulder (placed together, as when taken out) into the
receiver, pressing them forward so as to relieve them from the tension
of their springs; then insert the hammer pin, half-cock the hammer, and
press back the locking shoulder until it is held by the catch on the
locking lever. 2. Insert the lever, breech block and cartridge extractor
placed together, put in the fulcrum pin, turn the heads or flanges of the
two pins to their places against the binding screw, and turn it up to its
place. 3. Open the breech in the usual way, or simply bring the hammer
to full cock, when the locking shoulder will be released and the piece
ready to operate. The ramrod is held in place by being screwed into the
steel on the lower side of the barrel.
_Whitney New System Breech Loading Gun (made by Whitney Arms Company, New
Haven, Conn.)_—1, Receiver or Frame; 2, Bottom Tang; 3, Barrel; 4, Breech
Block; 5, Hammer; 6, Breech Block Fulcrum Pin; 7, Hammer Fulcrum Pin; 8,
Extractor; 9, Mainspring; 10, Trigger; 11, Stud.
To take apart the lock work: 1. Give the screw in the side of the frame
or receiver (that holds the two large fulcrum pins) a few turns to
release the flanges or heads of the two pins, then turn them away from
the screw a little. 2. Place the hammer on the full cock, open the breech
half way, knock out the pin that holds the breech block and the extractor
screw in the side of the receiver, then take out the breech block and
cartridge extractor at the same time. 3. Uncock the hammer, pressing it
forward so as to relieve the tension of the spring; knock out the large
pin and take out the hammer.
To assemble the lock work: 1. Draw back the trigger to its usual place,
and insert the hammer into the receiver, pressing it forward so as to
relieve it from the tension of the spring; then insert the hammer pin
and cock the hammer. 2. Insert the breech block and cartridge extractor,
placed together, put in the fulcrum pin, turn the heads or flanges of the
two pins to their places against the binding screw, and turn it up to its
place; then put in the extractor screw.
_Winchester Magazine Gun.—(Made by Winchester Arms Co., New Haven,
Conn.)_—To take apart:
To take out the barrel: Take out the two tip screws, the magazine ring
pin, pull out the magazine tube, and take off the forearm; then, before
unscrewing the barrel from the frame, the breech pin must be thrown back
by moving the finger-lever forward, otherwise the attempt to unscrew it
will break the spring catch that withdraws the cartridge, and ruin the
breech-pin.
To remove the breech pin model of 1866: After removing the side plates
and links, the spring-catch must be next taken out, which is done by
moving the breech-pin back so that the pin that holds the spring catch
will be in a line with a corresponding hole through the frame; then with
a small steel wire punch out the pin, then move the breech-pin forward
and take out the spring catch; the piston can then be unscrewed with
pliers or hand vise, first setting the hammer at full cock, or taking it
out.
In models of 1873 and 1876: After removing the side plates and links,
take out the link pin and retractor; the piston can then be pulled out
with the fingers, first removing the hammer or setting it at full cock.
Should the main spring require strengthening it can be done by turning
up the strain-screw, which will be found directly under it, on the under
side of the frame.
_Remington’s Rifle Cane.—(Made by E. Remington & Sons Ilion, N.
Y.)_—Directions for using: To load, unscrew the handle or breech from the
body of the cane; insert the cartridge and replace the handle, drawing
back the handle will cock the piece ready for firing, when pressing
on the trigger-knob underneath will discharge it. Do not press on the
trigger-knob when the piece is being cocked.
The lock-case or breech may be closed by a slight pressure upon the
spring sight.
For hunting or target practice, remove the tip or ferule at the muzzle.
If it is required to use the arm suddenly, as for self-defense, it is not
necessary to remove the tip.
To remove the lock-case, remove the ferule under the handle by driving it
down, take out the pin under the ferule, draw out the handle, draw the
cane to full cock and press down and back the trigger, unscrew the lock
from the barrel and push the cock out at the top end of the case.
In replacing the lock be careful to get the slot on a line with the guide
inside of the case, and press down the sight spring.
_Billings’ Breech Loading Shot Gun.—(Made by Billings & Spencer,
Hartford, Conn.)_—This arm is provided with a backward and upward moving
breech block in the rear of the cartridge, the breech block turning
backward upon the hinge, which is a more natural motion than a forward
turn.
To open the breech for loading, half cock the piece; draw the locking
bolt with small handle on right side, and pull towards you; this retracts
the firing pin, also extracts the shell automatically at the same time.
_The Fox Breech Loading Shot Gun.—(Made by American Arms Co., Boston,
Mass.)_—To take apart: To detach the barrels, first open the gun as if
for loading, which is done by pressing forward the thumb-piece on the top
of the stock; then with the left thumb at a point about two inches from
the end of the barrels, press the barrels towards the right and the gun
is in position to load. Next turn the gun over in the right hand, holding
it by the small of the stock, the end of the stock under the elbow
supporting the weight of the gun; with the left thumb press the extractor
home, and, with the thumb placed on the extractor spring, as close up to
the fore end as convenient, press down the extractor firmly, and gently
swinging the stock to the right until the detachment is obtained.
To attach the barrels again, grasp the barrels with the plate up, so that
the large screw at the head of the plate comes about at the center of
the hand; be sure that the extractor is home. Place the opening for the
screw which is in the breech-plate, over the screw, with the stock at an
angle of about forty-five degrees with the barrels, at the same time put
the left thumb on the end of the fore end, holding it firmly and flat on
the plate, the stock-plate covering the guide-pin next the screw on the
barrels, but not the pin on the extractor; gently move the stock until
the two plates come into perfect contact, when the barrel will swing into
position.
To remove the extractor, detach the barrels from the stock, lay them on
a table with the plate up and muzzle from gun; pull out the extractor as
far as it will come readily, then turn it to the _left_ until the short
arm strikes end of the barrels; now draw it straight out, meanwhile
holding a finger over the extractor button to prevent its springing out
and getting lost, when the button and locking stud will fall out of their
own weight.
To replace the extractor, lay the extractor button in its cavity and
slide the long shank of the extractor through it, then place the locking
stud in position, holding it snug against the rear end of its seat, run
the extractor into it, solid home, and turn to the _right_ till the short
arm is opposite its hole, when push straight in.
To take out firing pins, remove the screw holding them, which will be
found in the breech-piece at the rear of the scroll-fence.
_The Lefever Hammerless Gun.—(Made by Daniel Lefever, Syracuse, N.
Y.)_—Locks are rebounding.
To take apart: To take off the lock, see that both hammers are down;
take out lever-screw; remove lever; turn out lock plate screw and drive
off right hand lock by tapping on head of lock plate screw; take out the
screw and insert in sear hole, and drive off left hand plate.
To take out the hammers, turn _in_ the screws in bottom of the frame
until the mainspring will allow the hammer to drop back far enough to
allow its being lifted out of the frame. In putting back, be careful to
press the projection on the lever on top of the spring that holds it, up
to place, before putting the lever-screw in.
_Parker Double-barreled Breech-loading Shot Gun. (Made by Parker
Brothers, Meriden, Conn.)_—1. Finger piece. 2. Guard. 3. Lifter. 4.
Locking bolt screws. 5. Locking bolt. 6. Barrel lug. 7. Trip. 8. Trip
spring. 11. Extractor. 13. Joint Roll. The finger piece is solid and a
part of lifter.
Pressing up the finger piece in front of guard raises the lifter, and its
beveled side coming in contact with the locking bolt screw, acts as a
wedge to draw the locking bolt from the mortise in the lug, and releases
the barrels so that they tilt upward ready to receive the cartridges.
When the bolt is back to the position shown in Fig. 2, the small hole
which is drilled in the under side of the bolt comes directly over the
trip, which, by the assistance of the trip spring, is made to enter the
hole in the bolt and thereby hold it in position.
For cleaning, it can be very easily removed by taking off the locks and
removing the locking bolt screw from the end of the locking bolt, then
press down on the trip, which will allow the lifter to be withdrawn
without removing either stock, guard or trigger-plate.
To replace the plunger: Withdraw the cone with a common screw-driver, by
pressing it against the plunger until the screw-driver enters the slot.
After removing the plunger and spring, be careful to replace them with
spring at side of plunger.
_Remington Double-barreled Breech-loading Shot Gun. (Made by E.
Remington & Sons, Ilion, N. Y.)_—A, thumb piece; B, lever, engaging
locking bolt; C, pivot of lever B; D, locking point; H, joint check; K,
pivot pin; L, joint check screw, limiting motion of barrels; M, hammer
lifter; N, extractor; O, wire, a shoulder of which rests against P; P,
shoulder of dog engaging locking bolt; S, snap action spring.
To take apart: To remove the barrels, take off the tip-stock, full cock
both hammers and press the thumb-piece (between the hammers, and used
for unlocking the barrels for loading) upward as far as it will go. The
barrels can thus be detached.
In Fig. 3, the locking bolt is drawn as far as the shoulder P will allow
it to move. This shoulder P is formed on one side of a little dog, in the
other side of which is a corresponding shoulder, resting against the wire
O. So long as the tip-stock is in place this dog cannot yield or permit
the locking-bolt to be drawn far enough to allow the joint-check to come
out of the mortise in the frame; but when the tip-stock is removed, the
wire O can slip part way out, as in Fig. 4, allowing the shoulder P
to move back, so that the locking-bolt can be drawn back clear of the
joint-check—thus releasing the barrels.
_The Roper Four-shooting Shot-gun and Rifle. (Made by the Billings &
Spencer Co., Hartford, Conn.)_—A, frame; B, receiver; B¹, hinged lid of
receiver; C, hammer; D, plunger; D¹, head of plunger; E, plunger link; F,
cartridges; G, carrier in which shells are placed; H, lever to revolve
carrier; I, mainspring; J, sear; _a_, ratchet; _b_, stirrup; _c_, link
connecting hammer with mainspring; _d_, pin of lever H; _e_, pivot of
carrier G; _f_, firing pin; _h_, elastic tail of lever H.
To take apart: To take the gun apart, _turn in_ the set screw on under
side of cylinder forward of the guard plate screw, until it comes to a
stop. Then bring the hammer to cock notch and unscrew the cylinder from
breech. N. B.—This set screw turns _in_ to take the gun apart, and turns
_out_ to fasten the cylinder.
In putting the gun together, screw up the breech until the set screw can
be replaced. This screw should be turned sufficiently tight to prevent
any looseness of the breech.
To take off the stock and expose the lock, take out the long screw that
runs through the small, rear end of receiver on top, and the screw in the
guard plate which fastens it to the receiver underneath in front. Then
remove the stock, and the working parts are exposed and can be readily
cleaned and oiled. The firing pin should be detached occasionally,
cleaned and oiled, as its easy working insures certain fire. To do this,
take out the small screw in the top of the hammer and remove the piston
entirely from the receiver, and the piston and firing pin are readily
separated. In replacing the piston, care should be taken to put it in
right side up, the retractor spring being at the bottom. Never attempt
to take out the screw which fastens the link to the piston, until the
firing pin is detached.
_Colt’s Revolver For Army Use, Cal. 45.—(Made by the Colt Pat. Fire
Arms Co., Hartford, Conn.)_—A, barrel; B, Frame; B¹, recoil plate, C,
cylinder; DD, firing pan; D¹, center pin bushing; E, guard; F, back
strap; G, hammer; H, main spring; I, hammer roll and rivet; J, hammer
screw; K, hammer cam; L, hand and hand spring; M, bolt and screw; N,
trigger and screw; O, hammer notches. P, firing pin and rivet; Q, ejector
rod and spring; Q¹, ejector tube; R, ejector head; S, ejector tube screw;
T, short guard screw; U, seat and bolt spring (combined) and screw. V,
back strap screw; W, main spring screw; X, front sight; Y, center pin
catch screw.
To take apart: To dismount the pistol, half-cock the hammer, loosen the
centre pin catch screw; draw out the centre pin, open the gate, and the
cylinder can then be withdrawn. To remove the ejector, turn out the
ejector tube screw, then push the front end away from the barrel and
pull it towards the muzzle. The stock can be removed by turning out the
two screws just behind the hammer, and that at the bottom of the strap.
Remove the main spring and trigger guard; the parts of the lock can then
be readily separated. The cylinder bushing should then be pushed out for
cleaning. To remove the gate, turn out a screw in the lower side of the
frame (hidden by the trigger guard), then the gate spring and catch can
be withdrawn, and the gate can be pushed out.
To assemble the pistol, follow the directions for dismounting in reverse
order. The mainspring is most conveniently mounted by turning in the
screw part way, then swinging around the front end of the main spring
until it bears against the under side of the friction roll. The cylinder
bushing should be frequently removed for cleaning.
_North’s Patent Revolving Pistol._—To take the pistol apart, take out
the screw in the forward end of the lock and barrel frame, which runs
through the base-pin, then draw back the operating lever so as to bring
the hammer to the half-cock, turn the cylinder round by hand until the
mortise in the back end of the cylinder is found, which mortise connects
the cylinder with the recoil shield; then unlock the rammer and draw it
and the base-pin out; the cylinder is then left free to be taken out.
When the cylinder is taken out be careful not to leave the spiral spring
which lays in a recess made in the front end of the cylinder, and in
putting together be careful to replace this spring.
To take the lock apart, first take out the main and lever springs which
are both held by one screw; then take out the hammer, next the small
screw connecting the lever with the link of the toggle-joint (this screw
is in the lever on the outside of the pistol just back of the trigger).
Next bend up the toggle-joint and take out the lever and trigger, which
are both held by one screw; then take out the toggle-joint and revolving
lever, which are connected together by two screws.
To put the lock together, first put in the toggle-joint, then the main
and lever springs, next the hammer, then the lever and trigger; next
screw the revolving lever to the toggle-joint.
To put the cylinder in its place, first put the recoil shield (the piece
with ratchets made for turning the breech) into its place and draw back
the operating lever so that the hammer will come to full cock, at the
same time pressing back the recoil shield as far as it will go, still
holding back the operating lever; see that the spiral spring is in place
in front of the cylinder, put the cylinder in place, let the projecting
pin on the recoil shield come into the mortise in back end of cylinder;
then put base-pin and rammer to place and turn in the screw which holds
it.
_The Remington Revolver (Smoot’s Patent, made by E. Remington & Sons,
Ilion, N. Y.)_—To load: Half-cock the hammer; then turn the cylinder
around so as to bring the chambers in line with the opening in the recoil
shield, in which position the cartridges can be inserted, or the empty
shells extracted by means of the rammer on the side of the barrel.
To remove the cylinder: Half-cock the hammer, then slide forward the stud
in front of the cylinder through which the extractor rammer operates. The
cylinder is replaced in the same way, but it is generally necessary to
turn it in its seat to get the pawl out of the way before the centre pin
will enter the hole in the cylinder.
To take the arm apart for cleaning: Remove the cylinder; then take out
the two screws for holding the guard to the frame. When the guard is
taken off, all the lock work is accessible for cleaning.
In order to keep a revolver in good condition, the cylinder should be
taken out and oiled before putting it away after firing. The centre pin
should be removed and cleaned to prevent it from rusting and impeding the
rotation of the cylinder.
_The Remington Magazine Pistol.—(Rider’s Patent. Made by E. Remington
& Sons, Ilion, N. Y.)_—To load: Draw the tube from the magazine; hold
the pistol barrel upright; drop the cartridge, rim downwards, into the
magazine; when full, insert the feeding tube in the magazine and lock
in place by turning the caps and engaging catch in the notch under the
barrel.
To fire: Grasp the pistol in the usual manner, press the thumb upon
the breech-block, carrying the block downward until released from the
recoil shoulder; then draw the block and hammer backward until the
hammer engages in the cock notch; then let the block forward by an easy
motion and the cartridge will be carried into the chamber; the pistol
will remain at full cock and is discharged by pulling the trigger. In
case the pistol should be loaded, and cocked, and not needed for use,
the cartridge in the chamber may be returned to the magazine by simply
drawing back the breech and pressing the carrier downward until the
cartridge is in position to enter the magazine, then letting the block
forward. This is to insure safety in carrying. The principle of this arm
is such that the same motion cocks the hammer and carries the charge from
the magazine to the chamber.
_Schofield, Smith & Wesson Revolver, cal. 45.—(Made by Smith & Wesson,
Springfield, Mass.)_—To dismount the pistol: The only part of the pistol
which will ordinarily require removal is the cylinder, which can be taken
out as follows: Turn the cylinder catch just 180 deg., as indicated by
the notch on its head; open the pistol; press up the head of the catch
until it clears the cylinder; draw out the cylinder; replace it in
inverse order.
To remove the cylinder and ejector of the pocket pistols, open the pistol
until the piston protrudes half way, raise the barrel catch and turn the
cylinder _two_ turns to the _left_.
To replace the cylinder and ejector, open the pistol to its full
capacity, raise the barrel catch, _press_ the cylinder forward upon the
base pin and give it _two_ turns to the _right_.
_The Automatic (Merwin, Hulbert & Co.)_ is so simple in its arrangements
as to need no directions for assembling or taking apart.
FINIS.